Climbs 166
Rocktype Greenstone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

Just a little bit of atmosphere © victim of mathematics

Crag features

Compact rock with some brilliant multi-pitch routes up to 350ft. Protection can be sparse, and pegs should also be treated with care. Aim for Sackful Of Clowns (HVS 5a), The Tomb (E2 5b), The Awakening (E3 5c), America (E4 5c) and Guernica (E6 6b).

Approach notes

Tidal in most parts.
From St Agnes on the N coast follow the minor coast road to a turning on the R. Follow rough track to parking near the coastguard station. 400m E is the top of the America Wall. Abseil access is best.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)
North Devon and Cornwall (2000)

Out of print:
Further to previous comment and a general lack of updating by the moderator: Demerara is E2 5a with a huge fall potential from the slopey slab crux in the middle, this would be extremely dangerous for a VS leader to get on. Rotwand at least E1 5a - E1 pitch is the top 4c pitch with huge run out on fragile holds and mud. The extremes are better graded.
Fiend - 19/Jul/16
The routes listings are all from the older guidebook. There have been many changes since then to the grades, stars, and even existence of some routes.
Fiend - 26/May/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Ratcliffe Highway
-
HS 4b  
2AmericaE4 5c ***42
3GuernicaE6 6a **6
4MausoleumE2 5b **4
5RazorbillE2 5c *** 
6Just NaturalE2 5b *6
7SupernaturalVS 4b **70
8PhantasmE4 6a ***7
9Pierrot le FouE5 6a ***1
10A Sackful of ClownsE1 5b **15
11crystal
-
VS 4c 7
12SluiceHVS 5a 4
13DesireE2 5b **8
14yellow arete
-
S 4a 4
15Crystal ViceHVS 4c 1
16weighout
-
VS 4c 5
17Nowhere Man
-
E2 5b *1
18Ruby
-
E2 5b * 
19Chicken Flesh
-
E1 5b **2
20Gravity's Rainbow
-
E2 5c * 
21Rotwand
-
HVS 4c *13
22Happy Hunting Ground
-
HVS 5a *1
23Midnight Rambler
-
E2 5b ** 
24The TombE4 5c ***12
25The Vault
-
E1 *5
26Halcyon Days
-
E3 5b *2
27Demerara
-
VS 4c *15
28last exit to st agnes
-
VS 4b 6
29Black Night
-
HVS 5a *5
30tempest
-
HS 7
31taming the shrew
-
S 18
32Aprez-vous
-
E1 5b **1
33The Awakening
-
E3 5c ***1
34The Haze
-
E4 6a **1
35Diabolist
-
E1 5c **1
36The Baptist
-
E2 5c *1
37Elixir
-
E3 5c * 
38Continental Retreat
-
E1 5b *1
39Silver Dollar
-
HVS 5a *8
40Castaway
-
E1 5a * 
41Crystal Voyage
-
E1 5a **10
42Magic Fly
-
E2 5c *1
43The Mercury Connection
-
HVS 5a *6
44quicksilver
-
HVS 5a *3
45MercuryE2 5b ***107
46Andromeda Strain
-
E4 5c **1
47terra nova
-
HVS 5a 2
48Bohemian
-
E2 5b * 
49The Arete
-
HVS 4c *1
50McVitie
-
VS 4c 1
51hard tack
-
HVS 4c 2
52Fourth Dimension
-
HVS 4c *1
53Journey to IxtlanHVS 4c **80
54star wars
-
E2 5b *1
55Looking for a RainbowS 4a *24
56Rainbow GamesE2 5b ***57
57Four for TexasE2 5b **37
58Sundance
-
HS 4a *13
59feline
-
VS 4b 4
60bubble trouble
-
HVS 5a 4
61Cave Wall TerraceHS 4b *3
62The Hairy Men from the East
-
D *3
63Alex of GowlaE1 5b **22
64Indian CountryE2 5b **11
65hopes and fearsVS 4b *3
66susan
-
E2 5b ***3
67eskimoVS 4c 14
68souixzy and the banshees
-
E1 5b *2
69Solid GroundE1 5a * 
70Touch the Earth
-
VS 4c **11
71shaman
-
S 4a 4
72How the West was Won
-
S *1
73Tipi
-
VD 10
74Two Score And 10HS 4a 3
75Indian PrincessD 3
76Black KnightHVS 5a *1
77Red Cloud
-
S 6
78Crackline
-
HS 4b **5
79Alpha-Beta
-
HVS 5a 1
80Soma
-
HVS 5a 1
81Sunny Delights
-
E2 5a 1
82Outside Edge
-
HS 4b 2
83China GroveHVS 5a *3
84Cave Wall TraverseHS 4b *7
85Absolutely AditE1 5a 3
86WageslaveHVS 4c 1
87Big CountryD 1
88The Skirmish
-
HVS 5a 6
89War without Tears
-
E2 5b 1
901492
-
E6 6b * 
91Ku Klux Klan
-
E5 6a/b ** 
92Escapist DirectE2 5b  
93Running on Empty
-
E4 6a 1
94Motion Sickness
-
E3 5c *1
95Excellent Wall
-
E2 5b 1
96Deceleration Lane
-
VS 4b ***5
97Reality Bypass
-
E4 5c 1
98Natrel Plus
-
E3 6a  
99The Final Cut
-
E1 5b  
100Barren Landa
-
E6 6a/b ** 
101Broadside
-
E3 5b  
102The Magic Wand
-
E5 6a ** 
103Downward Bound
-
HVS 4c  
104Here and Now
-
HVS 5a  
105Dark Lady
-
E3 6a  
106Rise Above
-
E4 6a  
107Saviourblade
-
E5 6a 1
108Wolfstone
-
E6 6b ** 
109Where's Heinz?
-
E4 6a * 
110Eternity and a Spacious Grave
-
E5 6a  
111Killing Time
-
E2 5a  
112Bridge of Sighs
-
E5 5c  
113Bitter Sweet
-
E3 5b * 
114Towards the Light
-
E3 6a ** 
115Frankly...
-
E4 6b * 
116Welcome to the Human Race
-
E5 6a * 
117Nativity
-
HVS 5a 3
118Crash Landing
-
E2 5b  
119Life on Mars
-
E1 5b  
120Dead Run Down
-
E5 5c **1
121Euthanasia
-
HVS 5b  
122Blue Meany
-
HVS 4c  
123Starbound
-
HVS 4c  
124Daydream
-
HVS 5a  
125Nightride
-
S 4a  
126The Song of the Shirt
-
HVS 4b  
127Sideline
-
VD 2
128Saline
-
HVS 5a *2
129Chimney Route
-
S 4a  
130Fine Line
-
D *6
131Bee Line
-
HVS 5b *2
132Counting Coup
-
S 4a  
133Blackfoot Trots
-
VS 4c 1
134Crescenda
-
E2 5c  
135Spirit
-
M 1
136Ghost Dance
-
HS 1
137Yellow Hair
-
D  
138Kansas City
-
HVS 5a  
139Blue Skies And ButterfliesHVS 5a  
140Tut CrackVS 4b  
141Silent WitnessE2 5a/b  
142Indian Summer E3 5c * #E3 5c * 
143KateHVS 4c * 
144Phoenix NightsHVS 5a ** 
145Storm in a D CupHS 4b  
146Bra WarsE1 5b * 
147Hello Boys!E2 5b  
148Tit BitsS 4a 3
149Inspector CluesoHVS 4c * 
150Walking on SunshineVS 4b  
151Two Score and TenHS 4a  
152Beresford
-
HVS  
153Sobering ThoughtsVD 3
154Thunderbolt And LightningHVS 4c *1
155Here to thereHVS 4c ***2
156Broken ArrowS *7
157True LoveE1 5a **1
158The misadventures of tigsD 1
159CowabungaE3 5c  
160Massive AttackE4 5c/6a ** 
161Berlin wallHVS 5b *2
162Lava FallsE1 5a 2
163MissindoveyHVS 4c 1
164Why not alanXS mild 1
165Dusty alanE1 5a 1
166The marathon manE1 5a **1

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Fiend and fly or die