Pentire Point

Climbs 126 – Rocktype Pillow lava – Altitude 28m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
The rock has good incut holds and good friction. A concentration of marvellous single- and multi-pitch routes up to 230ft. Tick, if you can, Eroica (E2 6a/5b A1), Black Magic (E5 6a) and the amazing Darkinbad The Brightdayler (E5 6a). [Thanks to James Parrott for spotting the error that had shifted this crag to Wales...]

Access notes
Protected from the tide by boulders. Close to the resort of Polzeath (offering campsites). Drive to Pentire Farm for NT parking.

A track leads across fields to a junction at a stone stile with the coastal footpath. 100m E is a hump, the top of the Great Wall, with a faint path heading down to the E of the col.

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), North Devon and Cornwall (2000),
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 NORTH CLIFF 
2Whistlin' Past the GraveyardE6 6a **
3Psycho BagmanE5 6a *
4The Concrete TrampolineE3 5b
5Robert of PentireE3 6a
6Dolly's DeathE6 6b/c ***
7Dark SecretsE2 5c *
8Enlightened RougesE4 5c **
 THE GREAT WALL 
10Through the Looking GlassE3 5c *
11ReflectionsE4 6a ***
12Pete's RouteE2 5b
13CobraE2 5c
14A Groove Full of MirrorsE7 6b *
15Abracadabra ArêteE7 6b/c ***
16EroicaE4 6a ***
17Dislocation DanceE3 5c
18On the SickE4 6a **
19Pulses UnrealE4 6a *
20Dislocation Dance / Pulses UnrealE4 6a *
21Black MagicE5 6a ***
22Wall of Spirits (Pitch 1)E6 6b ***
23Wall of SpiritsE8 6b **
24Darkinbad the BrightdaylerE5 6a ***
25Urco's RevengeE5 6b **
26Another Nervous BreakdownE7 6b
27Your Funeral, My TrailE6 6b
28Siren's CryE5 6a **
29Beneath Black WatersE6 6b *
30Last LeviathanE4 5c
31Welcome to BedlamE5 6a
32Over My HeadE1 5c
 TWILIGHT CLIFF 
34HyperthermiaHS
35HypothermiaHVS 5a
36DaylightVD
37DawnHVS 5b
38DuskVS 4c
39TwilightHS 4b
40Fear is your only GodE4 6a
 REDWALL CLIFF 
42Warrior MouseHVS 5a
43Wake Up Time to DieE2 5c
44BloodbeakE1 5b
45IronbeakHVS 5b
46Cradle of FilthHVS 5a
47The Joseph BellHS 4b *
 TRIPLE GROOVE BUTTRESS 
49Groove of IllusionsVS 4c
50Snake In The GrassVS 4b
51GreenwitchHS 4b
52Colin's GrandmaVS 4c
53Grandpa's VariationVS 4c
54FaffHS 4b
 PENTIRE BLACK ZAWN 
56The FingerS
57This is How it GoesVD
58Let's Go Meet Da PansiesHS
59Line & SinkerHVS 5a
60The ExHS 4b
61Standing in the RainE1 5b
62SelkieVD
63The Rising DarkHVS 5a
64Quiet DesperationHVS 5a
65Camming Round The MountainHVS 5a
66Pachyderm PathwayHVS 5a *
67Pigs in ZenE3 6a
68Nipped In The BuddhaVS 4c **
69One for the Lager DrinkersVS 4c
70The English WayHS 4b
71Little Black DressE2 5b
72Coal ComfortHVS 5a **
73Sister RayE4 6a *
74Brother ChrisE3 5c **
75Paranoia expressE2 5b **
76The Midnight GardenE2 5b **
77Black RoseE3 5c
78Black PowerE3 5c
79Ordinary MenVD
80Merchants of MenaceE2 5c **
81A Most Peculiar PracticeHS 4b
 THE SHIELD CLIFFS 
83Turkish DelightE5 5c **
84The CrusadeE5 6a ***
85IstanbulE5 6a **
86KandaharE5 6a/b **
87Easy PreyE4 5c **
88Hope for HillebrandtE3 5c *
89Groove of ShadowsE5 6a/b **
90Pounding HeartE4 6a ***
91Heavy BloodE5 6a ***
92The North ShipE6 6a/b **
93The Black HunterE5 6b **
94Our Stars, Our SkyVS 4c **
95Escape RouteVD
96Beach BumHS 4b
97Day TripperD
98Kamikaze ShrimpD
 THE BIG CHEESE 
100Ocean Of FearsE2 5a ***
101Steep SheepHVS 5a *
 THE DEVIL'S CLIFF 
103Touch of the DevilE4 6a **
104A Wok on the Wild SideHVS 4c
 HALF DOME BUTTRESS 
106Silent ScreamingE1 5a
 THURSDAY BUTTRESS 
108GracelessHS 4b
109Bitter MinnowsHVS 5a *
110Soul ShockE2 5b
111SilverfishHS 4b *
112ArtificeS 4a
 RAMP BUTTRESS 
114RampoVD
 PURGATORY BUTTRESS 
116ShortcakeVD
117InnocentsVD
118PuginHVS 5b
119SinnersE1 5b *
 RED STACK ROCKS 
121PolmorlaE6 6b **
122Blue JuiceE5 6a
123GothE2 5b
124TurkE2 5b
125Safe Haven!?!HVS 5a
126Exclusion ZoneVS 4c
127CatweasleE3 5c *
128Dill PickleE1 5b
129Whoops ApocalypseE5 6a **
130Hiroshima Mon AmourM *
131Enola GayE6 6a **
132Dancing in the Danger ZoneE6 6b ***
133Grave Dancers UnionE2 5b
134Curved AirE4 5c **
135Nessy CornerE3 5c *
 PENTIRE POINT 
137HopenerS
138ThinisherHS
139Psycho Cowboy f7C+ ***
140Cowboy Junkies f7C **
141AftificeS 4a
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I think the dot on the map needs to be moved a bit!!
andy_pemberton - 12/May/14
The Black Zawn is an area of the Pentire Point crag (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=315)
i.fish2000 - 09/Aug/12