Pentire Point

Climbs 126 – Rocktype Pillow lava – Altitude 28m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
The rock has good incut holds and good friction. A concentration of marvellous single- and multi-pitch routes up to 230ft. Tick, if you can, Eroica (E2 6a/5b A1), Black Magic (E5 6a) and the amazing Darkinbad The Brightdayler (E5 6a). [Thanks to James Parrott for spotting the error that had shifted this crag to Wales...]

Access notes
Protected from the tide by boulders. Close to the resort of Polzeath (offering campsites). Drive to Pentire Farm for NT parking.

A track leads across fields to a junction at a stone stile with the coastal footpath. 100m E is a hump, the top of the Great Wall, with a faint path heading down to the E of the col.

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), North Devon and Cornwall (2000),
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH CLIFF  
2Whistlin' Past the GraveyardE6 6a ** 
3Psycho BagmanE5 6a * 
4The Concrete TrampolineE3 5b 1
5Robert of PentireE3 6a  
6Dolly's DeathE6 6b/c ***1
7Dark SecretsE2 5c *1
8Enlightened RougesE4 5c ** 
 THE GREAT WALL  
10Through the Looking GlassE3 5c * 
11ReflectionsE4 6a ***3
12Pete's RouteE2 5b  
13CobraE2 5c 3
14A Groove Full of MirrorsE7 6b * 
15Abracadabra ArêteE7 6b/c *** 
16EroicaE4 6a ***120
17Dislocation DanceE3 5c 3
18On the SickE4 6a **2
19Pulses UnrealE4 6a *4
20Dislocation Dance / Pulses UnrealE4 6a *2
21Black MagicE5 6a ***34
22Wall of Spirits (Pitch 1)E6 6b *** 
23Wall of SpiritsE8 6b ** 
24Darkinbad the BrightdaylerE5 6a ***71
25Urco's RevengeE5 6b **1
26Another Nervous BreakdownE7 6b  
27Your Funeral, My TrailE6 6b  
28Siren's CryE5 6a **2
29Beneath Black WatersE6 6b * 
30Last LeviathanE4 5c  
31Welcome to BedlamE5 6a  
32Over My HeadE1 5c  
 TWILIGHT CLIFF  
34HyperthermiaHS 3
35HypothermiaHVS 5a 2
36DaylightVD 8
37DawnHVS 5b 1
38DuskVS 4c 1
39TwilightHS 4b 11
40Fear is your only GodE4 6a 3
 REDWALL CLIFF  
42Warrior MouseHVS 5a 5
43Wake Up Time to DieE2 5c  
44BloodbeakE1 5b 1
45IronbeakHVS 5b 2
46Cradle of FilthHVS 5a 4
47The Joseph BellHS 4b *5
 TRIPLE GROOVE BUTTRESS  
49Groove of IllusionsVS 4c  
50Snake In The GrassVS 4b  
51GreenwitchHS 4b  
52Colin's GrandmaVS 4c  
53Grandpa's VariationVS 4c  
54FaffHS 4b  
 PENTIRE BLACK ZAWN  
56The FingerS 2
57This is How it GoesVD  
58Let's Go Meet Da PansiesHS 1
59Line & SinkerHVS 5a 1
60The ExHS 4b  
61Standing in the RainE1 5b  
62SelkieVD 1
63The Rising DarkHVS 5a  
64Quiet DesperationHVS 5a  
65Camming Round The MountainHVS 5a 1
66Pachyderm PathwayHVS 5a *4
67Pigs in ZenE3 6a  
68Nipped In The BuddhaVS 4c **15
69One for the Lager DrinkersVS 4c 1
70The English WayHS 4b 8
71Little Black DressE2 5b 3
72Coal ComfortHVS 5a **2
73Sister RayE4 6a *1
74Brother ChrisE3 5c **6
75Paranoia expressE2 5b **8
76The Midnight GardenE2 5b **3
77Black RoseE3 5c 1
78Black PowerE3 5c 1
79Ordinary MenVD  
80Merchants of MenaceE2 5c **2
81A Most Peculiar PracticeHS 4b 2
 THE SHIELD CLIFFS  
83Turkish DelightE5 5c ** 
84The CrusadeE5 6a ***3
85IstanbulE5 6a ** 
86KandaharE5 6a/b ** 
87Easy PreyE4 5c **1
88Hope for HillebrandtE3 5c * 
89Groove of ShadowsE5 6a/b ** 
90Pounding HeartE4 6a ***1
91Heavy BloodE5 6a ***1
92The North ShipE6 6a/b ** 
93The Black HunterE5 6b ** 
94Our Stars, Our SkyVS 4c **12
95Escape RouteVD  
96Beach BumHS 4b  
97Day TripperD  
98Kamikaze ShrimpD  
 THE BIG CHEESE  
100Ocean Of FearsE2 5a ***1
101Steep SheepHVS 5a * 
 THE DEVIL'S CLIFF  
103Touch of the DevilE4 6a **1
104A Wok on the Wild SideHVS 4c  
 HALF DOME BUTTRESS  
106Silent ScreamingE1 5a  
 THURSDAY BUTTRESS  
108GracelessHS 4b  
109Bitter MinnowsHVS 5a * 
110Soul ShockE2 5b  
111SilverfishHS 4b *6
112ArtificeS 4a 1
 RAMP BUTTRESS  
114RampoVD  
 PURGATORY BUTTRESS  
116ShortcakeVD  
117InnocentsVD 1
118PuginHVS 5b  
119SinnersE1 5b *2
 RED STACK ROCKS  
121PolmorlaE6 6b ** 
122Blue JuiceE5 6a  
123GothE2 5b  
124TurkE2 5b  
125Safe Haven!?!HVS 5a  
126Exclusion ZoneVS 4c  
127CatweasleE3 5c * 
128Dill PickleE1 5b  
129Whoops ApocalypseE5 6a ** 
130Hiroshima Mon AmourM * 
131Enola GayE6 6a ** 
132Dancing in the Danger ZoneE6 6b *** 
133Grave Dancers UnionE2 5b  
134Curved AirE4 5c ** 
135Nessy CornerE3 5c * 
 PENTIRE POINT  
137HopenerS  
138ThinisherHS  
139Psycho Cowboy f7C+ ***1
140Cowboy Junkies f7C **1
141AftificeS 4a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I think the dot on the map needs to be moved a bit!!
andy_pemberton - 12/May/14
The Black Zawn is an area of the Pentire Point crag (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=315)
i.fish2000 - 09/Aug/12