Climbs 126
Rocktype Pillow lava
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces N

Sunset from Polzeath, with Pentire Point in the background (Headland to the right of gull rock?) © Dan Matthewman

Crag features

The rock has good incut holds and good friction. A concentration of marvellous single- and multi-pitch routes up to 230ft. Tick, if you can, Eroica (E2 6a/5b A1), Black Magic (E5 6a) and the amazing Darkinbad The Brightdayler (E5 6a). [Thanks to James Parrott for spotting the error that had shifted this crag to Wales...]

Approach notes

Protected from the tide by boulders. Close to the resort of Polzeath (offering campsites). Drive to Pentire Farm for NT parking.

A track leads across fields to a junction at a stone stile with the coastal footpath. 100m E is a hump, the top of the Great Wall, with a faint path heading down to the E of the col.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UKís most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfaxís award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UKís most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Devon and Cornwall (2000)

Out of print:
I think the dot on the map needs to be moved a bit!!
andy_pemberton - 12/May/14
The Black Zawn is an area of the Pentire Point crag (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=315)
i.fish2000 - 09/Aug/12
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Cliff 
2Whistlin' Past the GraveyardE6 6a ** 
3Psycho BagmanE5 6a * 
4The Concrete TrampolineE3 5b 1
5Robert of Pentire
-
E3 6a  
6Dolly's DeathE6 6b/c ***1
7Dark SecretsE2 5c *1
8Enlightened RougesE4 5c ** 
 The Great Wall 
10Through the Looking Glass
-
E3 5c * 
11Reflections
-
E4 6a ***3
12Pete's Route
-
E2 5b  
13Cobra
-
E2 5c 3
14A Groove Full of Mirrors
-
E7 6b * 
15Abracadabra ArÍteE7 6b/c *** 
16EroicaE4 6a ***192
17Dislocation DanceE3 5c 3
18On the SickE4 6a **2
19Pulses UnrealE4 6a *7
20Dislocation Dance / Pulses UnrealE4 6a *2
21Black MagicE5 6a ***55
22Wall of Spirits (Pitch 1)E6 6b *** 
23Wall of SpiritsE8 6b *** 
24Darkinbad the BrightdaylerE5 6a ***137
25Urco's Revenge
-
E5 6b **1
26Another Nervous Breakdown
-
E7 6b  
27Your Funeral, My Trail
-
E6 6b  
28Siren's CryE6 6a **3
29Beneath Black Waters
-
E6 6b * 
30Last Leviathan
-
E4 5c  
31Welcome to BedlamE5 6a  
32Over My Head
-
E1 5c  
 Twilight Cliff 
34HyperthermiaHS 4
35HypothermiaHVS 5a 2
36DaylightVD 8
37DawnHVS 5b 1
38DuskVS 4c 1
39Twilight
-
HS 4b 12
40Fear is your only GodE4 6a 3
 Redwall Cliff 
42Warrior MouseHVS 5a 5
43Wake Up Time to Die
-
E2 5c  
44BloodbeakE1 5b 1
45IronbeakHVS 5b 2
46Cradle of FilthHVS 5a 5
47The Joseph BellHS 4b *7
 Triple Groove Buttress 
49Groove of Illusions
-
VS 4c  
50Snake In The GrassVS 4b  
51Greenwitch
-
HS 4b 1
52Colin's Grandma
-
VS 4c  
53Grandpa's Variation
-
VS 4c  
54Faff
-
HS 4b  
 Pentire Black Zawn 
56The FingerS 2
57This is How it GoesVD  
58Let's Go Meet Da PansiesHS 1
59Line & SinkerHVS 5a 1
60The ExHS 4b  
61Standing in the RainE1 5b  
62SelkieVD 1
63The Rising Dark
-
HVS 5a 1
64Quiet Desperation
-
HVS 5a 1
65Camming Round The MountainHVS 5a 1
66Pachyderm PathwayHVS 5a *4
67Pigs in Zen
-
E3 6a  
68Nipped In The Buddha
-
VS 4c **21
69One for the Lager Drinkers
-
VS 4c 1
70The English Way
-
HS 4b 10
71Little Black Dress
-
E2 5b 5
72Coal ComfortHVS 5a **3
73Sister RayE4 6a *1
74Brother Chris
-
E3 5c **11
75Paranoia expressE2 5b **12
76The Midnight Garden
-
E2 5b **4
77Black Rose
-
E3 5c 1
78Black Power
-
E3 5c 1
79Ordinary Men
-
VD  
80Merchants of Menace
-
E2 5c **2
81A Most Peculiar Practice
-
HS 4b 2
 The Shield Cliffs 
83Turkish Delight
-
E5 5c ** 
84The CrusadeE5 6a ***3
85IstanbulE5 6a ** 
86KandaharE5 6a/b ** 
87Easy Prey
-
E4 5c **1
88Hope for Hillebrandt
-
E3 5c * 
89Groove of ShadowsE5 6a/b ** 
90Pounding Heart
-
E4 6a ***1
91Heavy BloodE5 6a ***1
92The North ShipE6 6a/b ** 
93The Black Hunter
-
E5 6b ** 
94Our Stars, Our SkyVS 4c **15
95Escape Route
-
VD  
96Beach Bum
-
HS 4b  
97Day Tripper
-
D  
98Kamikaze Shrimp
-
D  
 The Big Cheese 
100Ocean Of Fears
-
E2 5a ***1
101Steep Sheep
-
HVS 5a * 
 The Devil's Cliff 
103Touch of the DevilE4 6a **1
104A Wok on the Wild Side
-
HVS 4c  
 Half Dome Buttress 
106Silent Screaming
-
E1 5a  
 Thursday Buttress 
108Graceless
-
HS 4b  
109Bitter Minnows
-
HVS 5a * 
110Soul Shock
-
E2 5b  
111Silverfish
-
HS 4b *6
112Artifice
-
S 4a 1
 Ramp Buttress 
114Rampo
-
VD  
 Purgatory Buttress 
116Shortcake
-
VD  
117Innocents
-
VD 1
118PuginHVS 5b  
119Sinners
-
E1 5b *2
 Red Stack Rocks 
121PolmorlaE6 6b ** 
122Blue Juice
-
E5 6a  
123Goth
-
E2 5b  
124Turk
-
E2 5b  
125Safe Haven!?!
-
HVS 5a  
126Exclusion Zone
-
VS 4c  
127CatweasleE3 5c * 
128Dill PickleE1 5b  
129Whoops ApocalypseE5 6a ** 
130Hiroshima Mon Amour
-
M * 
131Enola GayE6 6a ** 
132Dancing in the Danger ZoneE6 6b *** 
133Grave Dancers UnionE2 5b  
134Curved AirE4 5c ** 
135Nessy CornerE3 5c * 
 Pentire Point 
137Hopener
-
S  
138Thinisher
-
HS  
139Psycho Cowboyf7C+ ***1
140Cowboy Junkiesf7C **4
141AftificeS 4a  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball