Cligga Head

Climbs 39 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude Tidal – Faces NW

Crag features
Unusually for this coast consists of killas slate and granite. Many pleasant routes at the lower grades up to 120ft.

Approach notes
Tidal in some parts.

Take the B3285 from Perranporth for 1.5miles to a steep hill. Turn R through buildings of the Cornwall Gliding Club. Park. Cross the runway to a rough track over a small bridge to a quarry on the cliff edge. The main climbing should be apparent ahead.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.


Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
21C Land SuperVS 4c ***3
22CobblersS 4a 1
23The DicerVS 4c  
24OfusS 4b  
25Black VeilVS 4b  
26Fear of a Black PlanetE2 5b ** 
27Maxwell's DemonE5 6b ** 
28Fingerin' the DykeE3 5c ** 
29Stone TableHS 4b 1
30Toad in the HoleVS 5a 1
31Gail's WaistHS 4c  
32Green Slime CrimeHS  
33Poxy WallD  
34Alpine DeparturesM  
35FisticuffsVS 4c  
36WolframiteE5 6a ** 
37Pigeons in the MistE3 6a ***1
38Maxwells TreasureE3 5c ** 
39MaxoutE3 5c ** 
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went to the north face today, its badly out of condition. every route has seaweed covered on it for around the first 20-30 ft.
tp45597 - 30/May/14
Glad to see people are climbing here, and improving the crag with some harder new routes on the North Face! Looking forward to giving Maxwell's Treasure and Maxout a go when I have time and the weather improves :D
Rusty2406 - 24/Oct/13
Look for some excellent bouldering/highball probs just behind the main quarry on the seaward side.
ph1 - 10/Oct/04
Queen Jane is a wonderfully atmospheric one pitch Diff slab. It starts with a tricky looking traverse, out of sight of the belayer and directly above boiling white water. There's a steep looking wall ahead, but the holds are huge and the angle soon eases off. Very secluded and a lot closer than any equivalent climb if you're in the immediate area. For a secure belay, take a spare rope to connect up as many of the rusty spikes and rings at the top as you can. There's not much else to use.
mbh at work - 13/Oct/03