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These details were last updated on 17/Oct/2007

Cligga Head

Cornwall, ENGLAND

Climbs 36 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude Tidal – Faces NW

Crag features
Unusually for this coast consists of killas slate and granite. Many pleasant routes at the lower grades up to 120ft.

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks

Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Dreamboat AnnieHVS 5a *3
2Queen JaneD **45
3The MasterdonVD *20
4Season of the WitchVS 5a *3
5Lord of the DanceVS 4c 1
6bright starXS 5a 3
7two fair maidensVD 7
8baldy baneS 4b **1
9Mastodon (Cligga Head)VD 3
10BroncoVD 5
11clints routeD 6
12reflections of inetD 6
13North ButtressVD 1
14Second ChoiceD 6
15Fumble with my Crumble!MS 1
16DiscretionS 1
17Guano AdventuresS 4a 1
18The VikingS 4a 2
 Climb nameGradex
19Shades of NodVD 2
20The Orange Throated GronkS 4b 1
21C Land SuperVS 4c ***1
22CobblersS 4a 1
23The DicerVS 4c  
24OfusS 4b  
25Black VeilVS 4b  
26Fear of a Black PlanetE2 5b ** 
27Maxwell's DemonE5 6b ** 
28Fingerin' the DykeE3 5c ** 
29Stone TableHS 4b  
30Toad in the HoleVS 5a  
31Gail's WaistHS 4c  
32Green Slime CrimeHS  
33Poxy WallD  
34Alpine DeparturesM  
35FisticuffsVS 4c  
36WolframiteE5 6a ** 
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Access notes
Tidal in some parts.

Take the B3285 from Perranporth for 1.5miles to a steep hill. Turn R through buildings of the Cornwall Gliding Club. Park. Cross the runway to a rough track over a small bridge to a quarry on the cliff edge. The main climbing should be apparent ahead.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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Look for some excellent bouldering/highball probs just behind the main quarry on the seaward side.
ph1 - 10/Oct/04

Queen Jane is a wonderfully atmospheric one pitch Diff slab. It starts with a tricky looking traverse, out of sight of the belayer and directly above boiling white water. There's a steep looking wall ahead, but the holds are huge and the angle soon eases off. Very secluded and a lot closer than any equivalent climb if you're in the immediate area. For a secure belay, take a spare rope to connect up as many of the rusty spikes and rings at the top as you can. There's not much else to use.
mbh at work - 13/Oct/03