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Cligga Head Cornwall, ENGLAND
Climbs 36 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude Tidal – Faces NW
Unusually for this coast consists of killas slate and granite. Many pleasant routes at the lower grades up to 120ft.
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)
Climbs at this crag
Tidal in some parts.
Take the B3285 from Perranporth for 1.5miles to a steep hill. Turn R through buildings of the Cornwall Gliding Club. Park. Cross the runway to a rough track over a small bridge to a quarry on the cliff edge. The main climbing should be apparent ahead.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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Look for some excellent bouldering/highball probs just behind the main quarry on the seaward side. |
ph1 - 10/Oct/04
Queen Jane is a wonderfully atmospheric one pitch Diff slab. It starts with a tricky looking traverse, out of sight of the belayer and directly above boiling white water. There's a steep looking wall ahead, but the holds are huge and the angle soon eases off. Very secluded and a lot closer than any equivalent climb if you're in the immediate area. For a secure belay, take a spare rope to connect up as many of the rusty spikes and rings at the top as you can. There's not much else to use.
mbh at work - 13/Oct/03