Compass Point - Bude

Climbs 67 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
Sunny and sheltered, with some very serious routes (involving little protection, though OK rock) up to 110ft. Probably the best is Crimtyphon (E2 5b) a wonderful slabby climb between the pegs and the pockets. Other routes of note are Sugar Magnolia (HVS 5a) and nice well protected route following a crack initially with a nice technical top out. Samantha just to the right is another nice route (E1 5a). Other routes worth trying include Tydomin (HVS 4c) and Westerlation which provides a nice introduction to the culm coast at a gentle S 4a.

However, all routes to the landward side of Crimptyphon are very serious with poor rock, unreliable protection and loose finishes.

Access notes
Head for the southern arm of Bude Haven. Drive along the narrow lane on the S bank of the Bude canal: at the end there is limited parking by a turning circle.

Walk through the white gate, towards the Compass Tower 100m beyond. Take care crossing the landward side of the promontory, or at low tide walk in from the beaches at either side.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2bossVD 5
3boss bossD 4
4yes bossVD 7
5big bossS 4a 8
6ok bossD 4
7last priceS 4b 6
8friend priceD 4
9BossyVD 5
10A Bit PriceyVD 5
11PricelessVD 4
12Bolt the CulmS 7
13To Bolt or Not to Bolt.S 7
14A Nest of Bolts.S 7
15Compass Aretef6C **2
16The GrinS 4a *1
17Boj WolbS 4a 3
18Wafty CrankersVS 4c *1
19Crutch upon CrutchVS 4c 2
20Yorkshire PudVS 4c 2
21Wreckin' and Divin'HVS 5a ***1
22Dark AttractionE1 5b * 
23Inch In, Inch OutE3 5b * 
24Full TiltE4 6a * 
25GoatsE8 6c ** 
26North RidgeVD 25
27Emmet BrownVS 4c  
28WesterlationS 4a *89
29ErnieHS 4a  
30Western ManHVS 5a *4
31Cool CanuteVS 4c 4
32Re-mergent, bE2 5b *1
33TroyVD 27
34The South RidgeD *24
35SamanthaE1 5b 19
36Miss Otis RegretsE2 5c 1
37Sugar MagnoliaHVS 5a *96
38Dolly DaggerE3 5b  
39Penelope Won't Leave the PitstopE5 6b **5
40CorinthE4 5c 2
41TydominHVS 4c **145
42FruichonHS 4b 45
43Wharf RatE1 5a 2
44PipsqueakVS 4c 4
45Artful DodgerE3 5b  
46Artful DeviationE2 5b  
47West South WestE1 5b 7
48The BeastE1 5b 1
49Snapping BubbliesE3 5b 30
50CrimtyphonE2 5c ***172
51Every Rose has its ThornE3 5c 6
52Salt Lake CityE1 5b 6
53DetroitE2 5b *13
54ChicagoE3 5b 1
55 CaravanseraiHVS 5a *146
56Second Comings (Start)V4 6a *1
57Caravanserai DirectHVS 5b 22
58AbraxasE3 5b  
59Easter RisingsE3 5c **9
60Dreadlock HolidayE5 5c 5
61Compass-tures GreenE3 5b  
62Frog AbuseXS 5b 1
63The EntertainerE3 5b 3
64PhantasmagoriaE3 6a *1
65Father Christmas's NightmareE3 5a 2
66Fisting GrooveHVS 4b 2
67Compass MentisE3 5b 2
68Loaded DiceE3 5b 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The whole of the top of the cliff right of the descent ramp (I.e. Snapping Bubblies and rightwards) is in a very dangerous condition. This section should be avoided.
Mark Kemball - 20/Apr/15
Path along the ridge falling down and treacherous. Belaying on crimptython is probably no longer possible. Won't be long until the whole cliff has fallen down!
Joel Perkin - 22/Mar/15
Crymtyphon pegs in good nick Summer 2008. Top route.
Owen W-G - 03/Mar/09
The routes are pleasant for the grade. Those on the seaward section are solid, those on the right section a little snappy. These routes have almost certainly all been climbed before. The area was used by a local activity centre 20 - 25 years ago who probably placed the bolts found at the top of both pieces of rock and the pegs who's rusted remains can be seen along the bottom of the seaward section.
Mark Kemball - 17/Feb/09
To Matt, Why not ask Leigh McGinley the next time you are in Joe Brown's as it is his route.
bob wightman - 29/Mar/04
Has any one any ideas of the state of the pegs on crymtyphon, i climbed it a few years ago, and they were in poor condition then. what is the situation with re pegging it?
Matt - 20/Aug/03