Compass Point - Bude

Climbs 67 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features

Sunny and sheltered, with some very serious routes (involving little protection and on unreliable rock) up to 110ft. Routes of note are Sugar Magnolia (HVS 5a) a well protected route following a crack initially with a nice technical top out. Samantha just to the right is another good route (E1 5b). Other routes worth trying include Tydomin (HVS 4c) and Westerlation at S 4a which has limited protection at it's start but is a pleasant route.

Following rockfalls in the winters of 2013 and 2014, all routes to the landward side of Tydomin, including Crimptyphon, are very serious with poor rock, unreliable protection and loose finishes'.

Approach notes

Head for the southern arm of Bude Haven. Drive along the narrow lane on the S bank of the Bude canal: at the end there is limited parking by a turning circle.
Walk through the white gate, towards the Compass Tower 100m beyond. Walk south along the coast path and then follow a path down to the pebble beach at the southern end of the bay and head back north to the crag. Descent by accessing the ridge of the crag from the Compass Tower is very dangerous following the collapse of the ridge. A low tide walk in from the beach to the north is another option: park as mentioned and walk down the cobbled ramp to the pebble beach and walk around the promontory.

Access notes

A large rockfall occurred on the right side of the crag in 2014, significantly changing all routes to the right of the descent ramp including the popular Crimpyphon and Caravanserai. The rock that remains on this section of the crag is still very unstable and any routes on this section of crag are likely to be mostly or entirely different to those that previously existed and very loose. Climbers are advised to avoid this area of the crag.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2bossVD 5
3boss bossD 4
4yes bossVD 7
5big bossS 4a 8
6ok bossD 4
7last priceS 4b 6
8friend priceD 4
9BossyVD 5
10A Bit PriceyVD 5
11PricelessVD 4
12Bolt the CulmS 7
13To Bolt or Not to Bolt.S 7
14A Nest of Bolts.S 7
15Compass Aretef6C **2
16The GrinS 4a *1
17Boj WolbS 4a 3
18Wafty CrankersVS 4c *1
19Crutch upon CrutchVS 4c 2
20Yorkshire PudVS 4c 2
21Wreckin' and Divin'HVS 5a ***1
22Dark AttractionE1 5b * 
23Inch In, Inch OutE3 5b * 
24Full TiltE4 6a * 
25GoatsE8 6c ** 
26North RidgeVD 25
27Emmet BrownVS 4c  
28WesterlationS 4a *91
29ErnieHS 4a  
30Western ManHVS 5a *4
31Cool CanuteVS 4c 4
32Re-mergent, bE2 5b *1
33TroyVD 27
34The South RidgeD *28
35SamanthaE1 5b 19
36Miss Otis RegretsE2 5c 1
37Sugar MagnoliaHVS 5a *100
38Dolly DaggerE3 5b  
39Penelope Won't Leave the PitstopE5 6b **5
40CorinthE4 5c 2
41TydominHVS 4c **151
43 FruichonHS 4b 46
44 Wharf RatE1 5a 2
45 PipsqueakVS 4c 5
46 Artful DodgerE3 5b  
47 Artful DeviationE2 5b  
48 West South WestE1 5b 7
49 The BeastE1 5b 1
50 Snapping BubbliesE3 5b 30
51 CrimtyphonE2 5c 177
52 Every Rose has its ThornE3 5c 6
53 Salt Lake CityE1 5b 6
54 DetroitE2 5b *13
55 ChicagoE3 5b 1
56 CaravanseraiHVS 5a 150
57Second Comings (Start)V4 6a *1
58 Caravanserai DirectHVS 5b 23
59 AbraxasE3 5b  
60 Easter RisingsE3 5c **9
61 Dreadlock HolidayE5 5c 5
62 Compass-tures GreenE3 5b  
63 Frog AbuseXS 5b 1
64 The EntertainerE3 5b 4
65 PhantasmagoriaE3 6a *1
66 Father Christmas's NightmareE3 5a 2
67 Fisting GrooveHVS 4b 2
68 Compass MentisE3 5b 2
69 Loaded DiceE3 5b 1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The whole of the top of the cliff right of the descent ramp (I.e. Snapping Bubblies and rightwards) is in a very dangerous condition. This section should be avoided.
Mark Kemball - 20/Apr/15
Path along the ridge falling down and treacherous. Belaying on crimptython is probably no longer possible. Won't be long until the whole cliff has fallen down!
Joel Perkin - 22/Mar/15
Crymtyphon pegs in good nick Summer 2008. Top route.
Owen W-G - 03/Mar/09
The routes are pleasant for the grade. Those on the seaward section are solid, those on the right section a little snappy. These routes have almost certainly all been climbed before. The area was used by a local activity centre 20 - 25 years ago who probably placed the bolts found at the top of both pieces of rock and the pegs who's rusted remains can be seen along the bottom of the seaward section.
Mark Kemball - 17/Feb/09
To Matt, Why not ask Leigh McGinley the next time you are in Joe Brown's as it is his route.
bob wightman - 29/Mar/04
Has any one any ideas of the state of the pegs on crymtyphon, i climbed it a few years ago, and they were in poor condition then. what is the situation with re pegging it?
Matt - 20/Aug/03