Compass Point - Bude

Climbs 67 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
Sunny and sheltered, with some very serious routes (involving little protection, though OK rock) up to 110ft. Probably the best is Crimtyphon (E2 5b) a wonderful slabby climb between the pegs and the pockets. Other routes of note are Sugar Magnolia (HVS 5a) and nice well protected route following a crack initially with a nice technical top out. Samantha just to the right is another nice route (E1 5a). Other routes worth trying include Tydomin (HVS 4c) and Westerlation which provides a nice introduction to the culm coast at a gentle S 4a.

However, all routes to the landward side of Crimptyphon are very serious with poor rock, unreliable protection and loose finishes.

Access notes
Head for the southern arm of Bude Haven. Drive along the narrow lane on the S bank of the Bude canal: at the end there is limited parking by a turning circle.

Walk through the white gate, towards the Compass Tower 100m beyond. Take care crossing the landward side of the promontory, or at low tide walk in from the beaches at either side.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
3boss bossD
4yes bossVD
5big bossS 4a
6ok bossD
7last priceS 4b
8friend priceD
10A Bit PriceyVD
12Bolt the CulmS
13To Bolt or Not to Bolt.S
14A Nest of Bolts.S
15Compass Aretef6C **
16The GrinS 4a *
17Boj WolbS 4a
18Wafty CrankersVS 4c *
19Crutch upon CrutchVS 4c
20Yorkshire PudVS 4c
21Wreckin' and Divin'HVS 5a ***
22Dark AttractionE1 5b *
23Inch In, Inch OutE3 5b *
24Full TiltE4 6a *
25GoatsE8 6c **
26North RidgeVD
27Emmet BrownVS 4c
28WesterlationS 4a *
29ErnieHS 4a
30Western ManHVS 5a *
31Cool CanuteVS 4c
32Re-mergent, bE2 5b *
34The South RidgeD
35SamanthaE1 5b
36Miss Otis RegretsE2 5c
37Sugar MagnoliaHVS 5a *
38Dolly DaggerE3 5b
39Penelope Won't Leave the PitstopE5 6b **
40CorinthE4 5c
41TydominHVS 4c **
42FruichonHS 4b
43Wharf RatE1 5a
44PipsqueakVS 4c
45Artful DodgerE3 5b
46Artful DeviationE2 5b
47West South WestE1 5b
48The BeastE1 5b
49Snapping BubbliesE3 5b
50CrimtyphonE2 5b **
51Every Rose has its ThornE3 5c
52Salt Lake CityE1 5b
53DetroitE2 5b *
54ChicagoE3 5b
55CaravanseraiHVS 4c **
56Second Comings (Start)V4 6a *
57Caravanserai DirectHVS 5b
58AbraxasE3 5b
59Easter RisingsE3 5c **
60Dreadlock HolidayE5 5c
61Compass-tures GreenE3 5b
62Frog AbuseXS 5b
63The EntertainerE3 5b
64PhantasmagoriaE3 6a *
65Father Christmas's NightmareE3 5a
66Fisting GrooveHVS 4b
67Compass MentisE3 5b
68Loaded DiceE3 5b
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball

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Crymtyphon pegs in good nick Summer 2008. Top route.
Owen W-G - 03/Mar/09
The routes are pleasant for the grade. Those on the seaward section are solid, those on the right section a little snappy. These routes have almost certainly all been climbed before. The area was used by a local activity centre 20 - 25 years ago who probably placed the bolts found at the top of both pieces of rock and the pegs who's rusted remains can be seen along the bottom of the seaward section.
Mark Kemball - 17/Feb/09
To Matt, Why not ask Leigh McGinley the next time you are in Joe Brown's as it is his route.
bob wightman - 29/Mar/04
Has any one any ideas of the state of the pegs on crymtyphon, i climbed it a few years ago, and they were in poor condition then. what is the situation with re pegging it?
Matt - 20/Aug/03