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These details were last updated on 21/Jan/2006

Compass Point - Bude

Cornwall, ENGLAND

Climbs 63 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
Sunny and sheltered, with some very serious routes (involving little protection, though OK rock) up to 110ft. Probably the best is Crimtyphon (E2 5b) and wonderful slabby climb between the pegs and the pockets. Other routes of note are Sugar Magnolia (HVS 5a) and nice well protected route following a crack initially with a nice technical top out. Samantha just to the right is another nice route (E1 5a). Other routes worth trying include Tydomin (HVS 4c) Caravnsarei (HVS 4c with an excellent 5b direct start) with an awful top out and no belay!!!! (It all adds to the experience). Westerlation provides a nice introduction to the culm coast at a gentle S 4a.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 NORTH FIN  
2bossVD 5
3boss bossD 4
4yes bossVD 7
5big bossS 4a 8
6ok bossD 4
7last priceS 4b 6
8friend priceD 4
9BossyVD 5
10A Bit PriceyVD 5
11PricelessVD 4
12Bolt the CulmS 7
13To Bolt or Not to Bolt.S 7
14A Nest of Bolts.S 7
15Compass Aretef6C **2
16The GrinS 4a *1
17Boj WolbS 4a 3
18Wafty CrankersVS 4c *1
19Crutch upon CrutchVS 4c 2
20Yorkshire PudVS 4c 2
21Wreckin' and Divin'HVS 5a ***1
22Dark AttractionE1 5b * 
23Inch In, Inch OutE3 5b * 
24Full TiltE4 6a * 
25GoatsE8 6c ** 
26North RidgeVD 19
27Emmet BrownVS 4c  
28WesterlationS 4a *60
29ErnieHS 4a  
30Western ManHVS 5a *4
31Cool CanuteVS 4c 4
32Re-mergent, bE2 5b *1
 Climb nameGradex
33TroyVD 23
34The South RidgeD 5
35SamanthaE1 5b 11
36Miss Otis RegretsE2 5c 1
37Sugar MagnoliaHVS 5a *63
38Penelope Won't Leave the PitstopE5 6b **3
39CorinthE4 5c 2
40TydominHVS 4c **104
41FruichonHS 4b 35
42Wharf RatE1 5a 2
43PipsqueakVS 4c 4
44West South WestE1 5b 6
45The BeastE1 5b 1
46Snapping BubbliesE3 5b 28
47CrimtyphonE2 5b **127
48Every Rose has its ThornE3 5c 6
49Salt Lake CityE1 5b 6
50DetroitE2 5b *12
51ChicagoE3 5b 1
52CaravanseraiHVS 4c **113
53Second Comings (Start)V4 6a *1
54Caravanserai DirectHVS 5b 15
55Easter RisingsE3 5c **9
56Dreadlock HolidayE5 5c 4
57Compass-tures GreenE3 5b  
58Frog AbuseXS 5b 1
59The EntertainerE3 5b 3
60PhantasmagoriaE3 6a *1
61Father Christmas's NightmareE3 5a 2
62Fisting GrooveHVS 4b 1
63Compass MentisE3 5b 2
64Loaded DiceE2 5b  
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Access notes
Head for the southern arm of Bude Haven. Drive along the narrow lane on the S bank of the Bude canal: at the end there is limited parking by a turning circle.

Walk through the white gate, towards the Compass Tower 100m beyond. Take care crossing the landward side of the promontory, or at low tide walk in from the beaches at either side.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball ?

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Crymtyphon pegs in good nick Summer 2008. Top route.
Owen W-G ? - 03/Mar/09

The routes are pleasant for the grade. Those on the seaward section are solid, those on the right section a little snappy. These routes have almost certainly all been climbed before. The area was used by a local activity centre 20 - 25 years ago who probably placed the bolts found at the top of both pieces of rock and the pegs who's rusted remains can be seen along the bottom of the seaward section.
Mark Kemball ? - 17/Feb/09

To Matt, Why not ask Leigh McGinley the next time you are in Joe Brown's as it is his route.
bob wightman - 29/Mar/04

Has any one any ideas of the state of the pegs on crymtyphon, i climbed it a few years ago, and they were in poor condition then. what is the situation with re pegging it?
Matt - 20/Aug/03