Compass Point - Bude Cornwall, ENGLAND
Climbs 67 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces S
Sunny and sheltered, with some very serious routes (involving little protection, though OK rock) up to 110ft. Probably the best is Crimtyphon (E2 5b) a wonderful slabby climb between the pegs and the pockets. Other routes of note are Sugar Magnolia (HVS 5a) and nice well protected route following a crack initially with a nice technical top out. Samantha just to the right is another nice route (E1 5a). Other routes worth trying include Tydomin (HVS 4c) and Westerlation which provides a nice introduction to the culm coast at a gentle S 4a.
However, all routes to the landward side of Crimptyphon are very serious with poor rock, unreliable protection and loose finishes.
Head for the southern arm of Bude Haven. Drive along the narrow lane on the S bank of the Bude canal: at the end there is limited parking by a turning circle.
Walk through the white gate, towards the Compass Tower 100m beyond. Take care crossing the landward side of the promontory, or at low tide walk in from the beaches at either side.
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South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)
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Crymtyphon pegs in good nick Summer 2008. Top route.|
Owen W-G - 03/Mar/09
The routes are pleasant for the grade. Those on the seaward section are solid, those on the right section a little snappy. These routes have almost certainly all been climbed before. The area was used by a local activity centre 20 - 25 years ago who probably placed the bolts found at the top of both pieces of rock and the pegs who's rusted remains can be seen along the bottom of the seaward section.
Mark Kemball - 17/Feb/09
Why not ask Leigh McGinley the next time you are in Joe Brown's as it is his route.
bob wightman - 29/Mar/04
Has any one any ideas of the state of the pegs on crymtyphon, i climbed it a few years ago, and they were in poor condition then. what is the situation with re pegging it?
Matt - 20/Aug/03