UKC

Climbs 107
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 265m a.s.l
Faces S

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Summit Quarry Todmorden © MikeC_000

Crag features

Faces SE round the pool. The E2s round the pool are good, as are the E2s on the buttress just north. [Goi Ashmore]

Approach notes

The Owners of the road most people park on have put up "No Parking" signs due to irresponsible drivers, please use the carpark that is BEFORE the wooden bridge - Lets not make access worse.

2 new belay stakes installed at top of Canalside butress
& the routes Cleaned of Grass

A block has come away on Alexander / Brightspark above overlap this winter, but doesn't appear to change grade

There is also no longer a capping overhang on layback crack don't know how it affects the climbing as it was wet today

Restricted Access

June 2023: some quarry infilling appears to be taking place. Future plans are not yet clear. As ever, remain polite.

1. The levelling has changed the foot of the climbs on a couple of sections by up to 2-3m, sometimes shortening and sometimes lengthening the climbing.

2. The Main and Pool area have been considerably shortened

3. There are sometimes piles of aggregate on the quarry floor, but these are only temporary.

 

There has been a significant rockfall that demolished Epicoff and Th'Way, leaving an interesting groove, which has not yet been climbed.

A locally important gritstone quarry is accessed by a public footpath from the Warland hamlet. Under the CROW act, the quarry is now open country. For many years the landowner and his son have been amenable to access by climbers. It is important that you show courtesy to the landowner and his son, whose houses you will pass as you walk up the footpath – this will ensure amicable access for future climbers. 

There is a pool at the bottom of the quarry, whose size fluctuates according to rainfall and is currently preventing access to the Pool Area and Green Wall. After you leave the public footpath, take care in your approach to the crag.

 

Once a lovely spot to climb and chill..atmospheric, secluded, with pool. Now totally ruined by excavators :-( Several climbs have now vanished...including Who Dun It.
Marc C - 03/Sep/23
Was once a lovely secluded atmospheric spot, complete with pool..now totally ruined by excavators :-( Several climbs now vanished .including Who Dun It?
Marc C - 03/Sep/23
Rubble / clay now fills the area around Grave’s End making Layback - Disorder much shorter. Bit disappointed in it as a venue. Least lovely Lancs quarry I’ve been to! Outlook amazing but if the landowner is looking to discourage climbers then filling the Quarry in should do the trick.
chrishedgehog - 16/Sep/22
There has been further rockfall in the same area, one large block has come to rest on the ledge
agolay - 22/May/12
There's been a fairly large rockfall recently it affects two routes severly - Take away and Pickwick, it may have also affected Delicatessen and Swordfish but to a lesser extent. The grass at the top of the crag appears to have been cleaned up to prevent anyone falling through it.
agolay - 28/Apr/11
A pleasant little venue - minor, but peacefully situated with some good, often bold routes (take your RPs, Offsets, Swedges, Peenuts, Sliders, Ballnuts, RocknRollers, filed down handplaced Rurps etc etc). The Pool Wall, small but impressively sheer and clean, is well worth a look - see BMC guide for details (and note the very good Hawkeye is a solo...).
Fiend - 06/Jul/04
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