Anglezarke Quarry

Climbs 183 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Safety Note: On the Coal Measures Crag there is a fixed line to lower off as the shale band cannot be crossed (easily). This is mentioned in the Rockfax guide. However, the line is clean broken on the far left hand side. Whatever you do don't clip into this or you'll be in for a quicker descent then anticipated. [Will Taylor 8/04]

Safety note:The horizontal ledge system just above the start of Metamorphosis is beginning is now showing signs of instability.Take care.

Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Lancashire Bouldering (2014), Western Grit (2009), Lancashire Rock (1999),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Just WilliamVD 12
3Soot JugglerHVS 5b 1
4Thomas's Wall ClimbHS 4a 3
5Year From NowE2 5c  
6Whittacker's AlmanacS 16
7FlyerE3 6a * 
8Traumatic EversionE1 5c *3
9Lurch SITf7A * 
10SparrowE4 6b 4
11Easy Upf3 1
12SheppyE3 6a *5
13Trev The Trav Chavf6C * 
14Age of ReasonE6 6b *4
15SplitsE2 5b 1
16StormVS 4c **73
17Layback Sitstart SITf4 1
18Bite Me SITf7A  
20Finurgle SITf6B  
21Arete Sitstartf4 1
22Grey TraverseV4 1
23SunbeamVS 4b *39
24KaibabHVS 5b 1
26Turkish DelightVS 5b 2
27Elder GrooveHS 4b 18
29Pedestal RouteD 15
30Rope ThiefHS 4b 1
31William the ConquerorHS 4b 1
32I'm SpartacusE5 6b  
33I ClaudiusE4 6a  
34The Rapidity of SleepE1 6a  
36Flake OutVS 4c 7
37The Lean Mean Fighting MachineE4 6a **5
38VishnuHVS 5a 4
39The Taciturn BoyE4 6b  
40Gritstone RainHVS 5b *3
41Schwartzennegger Mon AmourE5 6c * 
42The Karma MechanicE6 6c **6
43Stained SteelE7 7a **1
44ShibbE4 6b **1
45New JerusalemE4 6a **1
46If You can't Lick 'em, Lick 'emE5 6c  
47Supai CornerVS 4b *2
48Bright Angel CornerVS 4c *13
49Anasazi AreteE1 5b *8
50Son of DicktrotE2 5c 1
51ZoroasterVS 4b  
52Kelly's 'i'E2 5c  
53The ChangeingE1 5a 2
54Thirsty WorkE1 5b  
55Whiter Shade of ShaleHVS 5a 1
56Coal Measure ClimbHS 4a 1
58Midgebite WallVS 5a  
59FleabiteHVS 5a 3
61First NightHS 4b 6
62YapiHS 4b 5
63I See No ShipsHVS 5a 2
64Reservoir CamelsE1 5b 2
65Beginner's ButtressD 9
66Night BeforeVD 7
67Stag PartyHS 4a *9
68Wedding MarchVS 4c *6
70Finger ChimneyHVS 5a *7
71The FingerVS 4c *77
72The ThumbS 4a *35
73Glister WallS 4a *310
74Give ThanksE3 5c  
75SamarkandVS 4c ***266
76The Midas TouchE6 6c **4
77Fool's GoldHVS 5b *33
78AgrajagE3 6a 1
79The Golden TowerE2 5c ***201
80Gates of PerceptionE4 6a ***22
81Septic Think TankE5 6b *5
82The Italian JobE5 6b ***5
83Please Lock Me AwayE5 6b **18
84King of KingsE6 6b ***8
85The NauseaE5 6b  
86KlondykeE3 6a *21
87Dirty CornerVS 4c 4
88Lucky StrikeE2 5b 1
89Helical HappinessHVS 5a  
90Gilt ComplexHVS 5b  
91Office PartyE5 6a * 
92The Eight-Legged Atomic Dustbin Will Eat ItselfE1 5b  
93A Series of Boring MantleshelvesS 4a 1
95Botch Weld JobE1 5b  
96Rockin' HorseE2 5c  
97Grond IIHVS 5a  
98The Absent Minded ProfessorE4 6a *3
99Tangerine TripE3 6a ***35
100Hunter KillerHVS 5a 2
101Falkland GrooveVS 4c *28
102Mu' AzibE1 5b *13
103Michael PortilloE2 5b *5
104Corned Beef DictatorE1 5a  
105SuperbHVS 5a *24
106HermesVS 4c  
107Any Which Way But LooseHVS 5a  
108Any Which Way You CanE2 5c ** 
109To Infinity and BeyondE4 6b ** 
110Le Mans FinishE1 5b * 
111Airborne AttackHVS 5a  
112Gardening LeaveVS 4c  
114Gold DiggerVS 4c 8
115TinkerbellVD 4
116Triple Bob MajorD 3
117Tocsin WallVS 5a 3
118Cad Eye the HeatherE1 5b  
119BellringerE1 5c *1
120Ding DongHVS 5b  
121Tintinnabulation DirectHVS 5b 3
122TintinnabulationVS 4b 3
123Blueberry HillHVS 5b * 
124Not in this LifeVS 4c  
125Brick ThickHVS 5a 3
126Terra FirmaHVS 5b 1
127The Friable SausageE3 6b  
128Cotton TerrorE1 5a *50
129For Whom the Bell TollsVS 4c  
130Plain BobS 4a **28
131Plain Bob VariantVS 4b 10
132Ticketybangf7A+ * 
134UnappealingM 1
136Fox's CornerVD 9
137Edipol!HS 4b *209
138Bossa NovaVS 4b 19
139Bay HorseE1 5b 17
140Rock LobsterE2 5c 3
141Skin GameE3 6a **15
142LandE4 6a  
143Terror CottaHVS 5a ***339
144TerrorificE4 6a 4
145Mission ImpossibleE2 5b 3
146High RevverE1 5b *4
147Double TripE2 5c **57
148Third PartyE3 5c *6
149First FinaleE1 5b ***337
150ZarkeHVS 5a **95
151Fingertip ControlE4 5c ***41
152Birthday CrackVS 4b 90
153EpiduralE5 6b 1
154Many Happy ReturnsE1 5a *240
155Ain't Nothing To ItE3 6a **34
156There's More to ThisE4 6b *4
157Dancing on the ValentineE2 5c 2
159MetamorphosisVS 4c ***484
160TransformationVS 4c *105
161PunchlineE1 5b 7
162Punch UpVS 5a 14
163CoconinoD 5
165SnorterVS 5a 3
166Wall and CrackVS 5a 2
167Telegraph AreteHS 4b 13
168QuickstepS 4a 6
169Bum and Grindf6C  
170PandooiE3 6a 1
171ShortyE2 5b 16
172Go Rightf7A+  
173Go Up SITf6B  
174nowhere manE1 5b 9
175Go Left SITf6C+ * 
176Side TrackVS 4c 1
177Sleeper BayVD 7
179MarkVS 4c 75
180WedgeHS 4b *453
181ElaineHVS 5c 34
182NightmareVS 4b *344
183MinorHVS 5c 23
184MiniD 27
185Writer's CrampS 4b 39
187BecauseHS 4a 68
188MeanwhileS 4a 268
189Whittaker's OriginalHS 4a **464
190After the BlitzVS 4b 141
191Alldred's OriginalVD 358
192Boozehound EliminateHVS 4c 2
193Side StepHS 4b 91
194Get This One in the Guide It's a GemVS 4b 16
195Original Wall TraverseS 29
196Last PostVD 10
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Collins

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I've added the routes from Robin's Lancashire Bouldering guidebook. Please let me know if I've made any mistakes.
Mark Collins - 21/Oct/14
Cleaned the ferns out of Klondyke:
Mark Collins - 16/Sep/14
The loose block on Many Happy Returns mentioned in the comment below was removed last year:-
Mark Collins - 21/Aug/14
Probably best to avoid the Coal Measure Crag on a windy day, if you don't want to get hit by falling shale, very alpine.
Mark Collins - 17/Aug/14
Iíve finished cleaning the part of Metamorphosis Wall between Coconino and Transformation. The whole wall is now a bit dusty, so you might want to give it a brush before climbing, as ever at Anglezarke. Also, please be careful as these routes have not been climbed in years and may still contain loose rock, especially in the dry stone wall at the top.
Mark Collins - 16/Aug/14
Was up there today and noticed some drilling has taken place above WALT'S WALL on the rock between the stakes. Totally no need, can only assume bolt practice for somone or a centre going over the top.
innesmac - 03/Mar/12
Warning; the large vertical block halfway up 'Many Happy Returns' is dangerously loose.If you place wires behind it and then fall off you'll have a permanent headache.
ruckman - 19/Jul/10
The routes are getting very sandy and dirty at the moment, groups need to stop top roping as it would seem to be the main cause. Would also be good to see more interest as its an amazing place to climb!
joe.91 - 30/Jun/10
DONT TOP ROPE!! most routes are dirty enough as it is, but top roping/abseiling makes it much worse.
liam - 23/Apr/09
Cross the road from the car park to so many good routes. Lots of 'cracks' providing anything from a finger-hold to full body jam! Anchors in abundance. Enjoy
noosarabbit - 15/Aug/04