Climbs 183
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces all

The golden, golden tower © Laurence

Crag features

Safety Note: On the Coal Measures Crag there is a fixed line to lower off as the shale band cannot be crossed (easily). This is mentioned in the Rockfax guide. However, the line is clean broken on the far left hand side. Whatever you do don't clip into this or you'll be in for a quicker descent then anticipated. [Will Taylor 8/04]

Safety note:The horizontal ledge system just above the start of Metamorphosis is beginning is now showing signs of instability.Take care.

Access Advice

Climbers using the Left Wall Area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
I've added the routes from Robin's Lancashire Bouldering guidebook. Please let me know if I've made any mistakes.
Mark Collins - 21/Oct/14
Cleaned the ferns out of Klondyke: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=245795
Mark Collins - 16/Sep/14
The loose block on Many Happy Returns mentioned in the comment below was removed last year:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=227187
Mark Collins - 21/Aug/14
Probably best to avoid the Coal Measure Crag on a windy day, if you don't want to get hit by falling shale, very alpine.
Mark Collins - 17/Aug/14
Iíve finished cleaning the part of Metamorphosis Wall between Coconino and Transformation. The whole wall is now a bit dusty, so you might want to give it a brush before climbing, as ever at Anglezarke. Also, please be careful as these routes have not been climbed in years and may still contain loose rock, especially in the dry stone wall at the top. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=244249
Mark Collins - 16/Aug/14
Was up there today and noticed some drilling has taken place above WALT'S WALL on the rock between the stakes. Totally no need, can only assume bolt practice for somone or a centre going over the top.
innesmac - 03/Mar/12
Warning; the large vertical block halfway up 'Many Happy Returns' is dangerously loose.If you place wires behind it and then fall off you'll have a permanent headache.
ruckman - 19/Jul/10
The routes are getting very sandy and dirty at the moment, groups need to stop top roping as it would seem to be the main cause. Would also be good to see more interest as its an amazing place to climb!
joe.91 - 30/Jun/10
DONT TOP ROPE!! most routes are dirty enough as it is, but top roping/abseiling makes it much worse.
liam - 23/Apr/09
Cross the road from the car park to so many good routes. Lots of 'cracks' providing anything from a finger-hold to full body jam! Anchors in abundance. Enjoy
noosarabbit - 15/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Grey Buttress 
2Just WilliamVD 21
3Soot JugglerHVS 5b 1
4Thomas's Wall ClimbHS 4a 7
5Year From Now
-
E2 5c  
6Whittacker's AlmanacS 18
7FlyerE3 6a * 
8Traumatic EversionE1 5c *3
9Lurch SIT
-
f7A *1
10SparrowE4 6b 5
11Easy Up
-
f3 1
12SheppyE3 6a *6
13Trev The Trav Chav
-
f6C *2
14Age of ReasonE6 6b *4
15Splits
-
E2 5b 1
16StormVS 4c **80
17Layback Sitstart SIT
-
f4 2
18Bite Me SIT
-
f7A  
19Anglezyno
-
f7A  
20Finurgle SIT
-
f6B 1
21Arete Sitstart
-
f4 2
22Grey TraverseV4 1
23SunbeamVS 4b *40
24KaibabHVS 5b 1
25Prack
-
f6B  
26Turkish DelightVS 5b 2
27Elder GrooveHS 4b 19
 Plagiariser Wall 
29Pedestal RouteD 18
30Rope Thief
-
HS 4b 1
31William the Conqueror
-
HS 4b 1
32I'm Spartacus
-
E5 6b  
33I Claudius
-
E4 6a  
34The Rapidity of Sleep
-
E1 6a  
 Coal Measure Crag 
36Flake OutVS 4c 8
37The Lean Mean Fighting MachineE4 6a **6
38VishnuHVS 5a 4
39The Taciturn Boy
-
E4 6b  
40Gritstone RainHVS 5b *3
41Schwartzennegger Mon AmourE5 6c * 
42The Karma MechanicE6 6c **7
43Stained SteelE7 7a **1
44ShibbE4 6b **1
45New JerusalemE4 6a **1
46If You can't Lick 'em, Lick 'em
-
E5 6c  
47Supai CornerVS 4b *2
48Bright Angel CornerVS 4c *13
49Anasazi AreteE1 5b *9
50Son of Dicktrot
-
E2 5c 1
51Zoroaster
-
VS 4b  
52Kelly's 'i'
-
E2 5c  
53The Changeing
-
E1 5a 2
54Thirsty Work
-
E1 5b  
55Whiter Shade of Shale
-
HVS 5a 1
56Coal Measure Climb
-
HS 4a 1
 Low Wall 
58Midgebite Wall
-
VS 5a  
59Fleabite
-
HVS 5a 3
 Beginner's Buttress Area 
61First Night
-
HS 4b 6
62Yapi
-
HS 4b 5
63I See No Ships
-
HVS 5a 2
64Reservoir Camels
-
E1 5b 2
65Beginner's ButtressD 11
66Night Before
-
VD 8
67Stag Party
-
HS 4a *12
68Wedding March
-
VS 4c *8
 Golden Tower 
70Finger ChimneyHVS 5a *8
71The FingerVS 4c *86
72The ThumbS 4a *41
73Glister WallS 4a *336
74Give Thanks
-
E3 5c  
75SamarkandVS 4c ***330
76The Midas TouchE6 6c **4
77Fool's GoldHVS 5b *38
78Agrajag
-
E3 6a 1
79The Golden TowerE2 5c ***289
80Gates of PerceptionE4 6a ***25
81Septic Think TankE5 6b *5
82The Italian JobE5 6b ***5
83Please Lock Me AwayE5 6b **21
84King of KingsE6 6b ***11
85The Nausea
-
E5 6b  
86KlondykeE3 6a *22
87Dirty Corner
-
VS 4c 5
88Lucky Strike
-
E2 5b 1
89Helical Happiness
-
HVS 5a  
90Gilt Complex
-
HVS 5b  
91Office Party
-
E5 6a * 
92The Eight-Legged Atomic Dustbin Will Eat Itself
-
E1 5b  
93A Series of Boring Mantleshelves
-
S 4a 1
 Falkland Walls 
95Botch Weld Job
-
E1 5b  
96Rockin' Horse
-
E2 5c  
97Grond II
-
HVS 5a 1
98The Absent Minded ProfessorE4 6a *3
99Tangerine TripE3 6a ***46
100Hunter Killer
-
HVS 5a 2
101Falkland GrooveVS 4c *28
102Mu' AzibE1 5b *15
103Michael PortilloE2 5b *5
104Corned Beef DictatorE1 5a  
105SuperbHVS 5a *26
106HermesVS 4c 1
107Any Which Way But LooseHVS 5a  
108Any Which Way You Can
-
E2 5c ** 
109To Infinity and Beyond
-
E4 6b ** 
110Le Mans Finish
-
E1 5b * 
111Airborne Attack
-
HVS 5a  
112Gardening Leave
-
VS 4c  
 Triple Bob Buttress Area 
114Gold DiggerVS 4c 9
115Tinkerbell
-
VD 4
116Triple Bob Major
-
D 3
117Tocsin WallVS 5a 4
118Cad Eye the Heather
-
E1 5b  
119Bellringer
-
E1 5c *1
120Ding Dong
-
HVS 5b  
121Tintinnabulation DirectHVS 5b 4
122TintinnabulationVS 4b 4
123Blueberry Hill
-
HVS 5b * 
124Not in this Life
-
VS 4c  
125Brick ThickHVS 5a 3
126Terra Firma
-
HVS 5b 2
127The Friable Sausage
-
E3 6b  
128Cotton TerrorE1 5a *58
129For Whom the Bell Tolls
-
VS 4c  
130Plain Bob
-
S 4a **31
131Plain Bob VariantVS 4b 12
132Ticketybang
-
f7A+ * 
133Ticketyboo
-
f7A  
134Unappealing
-
M 2
 Left Wall Area 
136Fox's Corner
-
VD 13
137Edipol!HS 4b *232
138Bossa Nova
-
VS 4b 19
139Bay HorseE1 5b 19
140Rock Lobster
-
E2 5c 3
141Skin Game
-
E3 6a **15
142Land
-
E4 6a  
143Terror CottaHVS 5a ***411
144TerrorificE4 6a 5
145Mission ImpossibleE2 5b 3
146High RevverE1 5b *4
147Double TripE2 5c **63
148Third PartyE3 5c *6
149First FinaleE1 5b ***401
150ZarkeHVS 5a **104
151Fingertip ControlE4 5c ***52
152Birthday CrackVS 4b 105
153Epidural
-
E5 6b 1
154Many Happy ReturnsE1 5a *284
155Ain't Nothing To ItE3 6a **36
156There's More to This
-
E4 6b *5
157Dancing on the Valentine
-
E2 5c 2
 Metamorphosis Wall 
159MetamorphosisVS 4c ***555
160TransformationVS 4c *128
161PunchlineE1 5b 9
162Punch UpVS 5a 15
163Coconino
-
D 7
 The Middle Ground 
165Snorter
-
VS 5a 4
166Wall and Crack
-
VS 5a 3
167Telegraph Arete
-
HS 4b 14
168Quickstep
-
S 4a 8
169Bum and Grind
-
f6C  
170Pandooi
-
E3 6a 1
171Shorty
-
E2 5b 18
172Go Right
-
f7A+  
173Go Up SIT
-
f6B  
174nowhere man
-
E1 5b 9
175Go Left SIT
-
f6C+ * 
176Side Track
-
VS 4c 1
177Sleeper Bay
-
VD 8
 Walt's Wall 
179MarkVS 4c 81
180WedgeHS 4b *482
181ElaineHVS 5c 35
182NightmareVS 4b *371
183MinorHVS 5c 24
184MiniD 30
185Writer's CrampS 4b 42
 Lower Walls 
187BecauseHS 4a 79
188MeanwhileS 4a 298
189Whittaker's OriginalHS 4a **514
190After the BlitzVS 4b 155
191Alldred's OriginalVD 405
192Boozehound EliminateHVS 4c 2
193Side StepHS 4b 107
194Get This One in the Guide It's a GemVS 4b 21
195Original Wall TraverseS 33
196Last Post
-
VD 12

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