Anglezarke Quarry

Climbs 183 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Safety Note: On the Coal Measures Crag there is a fixed line to lower off as the shale band cannot be crossed (easily). This is mentioned in the Rockfax guide. However, the line is clean broken on the far left hand side. Whatever you do don't clip into this or you'll be in for a quicker descent then anticipated. [Will Taylor 8/04]

Safety note:The horizontal ledge system just above the start of Metamorphosis is beginning is now showing signs of instability.Take care.

Access notes
Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Lancashire Bouldering (2014), Western Grit (2009), Lancashire Rock (1999),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Just WilliamVD 12
3Soot JugglerHVS 5b 1
4Thomas's Wall ClimbHS 4a 3
5Year From NowE2 5c  
6Whittacker's AlmanacS 16
7FlyerE3 6a * 
8Traumatic EversionE1 5c *3
9Lurch SITf7A * 
10SparrowE4 6b 4
11Easy Upf3 1
12SheppyE3 6a *5
13Trev The Trav Chavf6C * 
14Age of ReasonE6 6b *4
15SplitsE2 5b 1
16StormVS 4c **72
17Layback Sitstart SITf4 1
18Bite Me SITf7A  
20Finurgle SITf6B  
21Arete Sitstartf4 1
22SunbeamVS 4b *39
23KaibabHVS 5b 1
25Turkish DelightVS 5b 2
26Elder GrooveHS 4b 18
28Pedestal RouteD 15
29Rope ThiefHS 4b 1
30William the ConquerorHS 4b 1
31I'm SpartacusE5 6b  
32I ClaudiusE4 6a  
33The Rapidity of SleepE1 6a  
35Flake OutVS 4c 7
36The Lean Mean Fighting MachineE4 6a **4
37VishnuHVS 5a 4
38The Taciturn BoyE4 6b  
39Gritstone RainHVS 5b *2
40Schwartzennegger Mon AmourE5 6c * 
41The Karma MechanicE6 6c **5
42Stained SteelE7 7a **1
43ShibbE4 6b **1
44New JerusalemE4 6a **1
45If You can't Lick 'em, Lick 'emE5 6c  
46Supai CornerVS 4b *2
47Bright Angel CornerVS 4c *13
48Anasazi AreteE1 5b *8
49Son of DicktrotE2 5c 1
50ZoroasterVS 4b  
51Kelly's 'i'E2 5c  
52The ChangeingE1 5a 2
53Thirsty WorkE1 5b  
54Whiter Shade of ShaleHVS 5a 1
55Coal Measure ClimbHS 4a 1
57Midgebite WallVS 5a  
58FleabiteHVS 5a 3
60First NightHS 4b 6
61YapiHS 4b 5
62I See No ShipsHVS 5a 2
63Reservoir CamelsE1 5b 2
64Beginner's ButtressD 9
65Night BeforeVD 6
66Stag PartyHS 4a *9
67Wedding MarchVS 4c *6
69Finger ChimneyHVS 5a *7
70The FingerVS 4c *75
71The ThumbS 4a *34
72Glister WallS 4a *307
73Give ThanksE3 5c  
74SamarkandVS 4c ***257
75The Midas TouchE6 6c **4
76Fool's GoldHVS 5b *32
77AgrajagE3 6a 1
78The Golden TowerE2 5c ***193
79Gates of PerceptionE4 6a ***21
80Septic Think TankE5 6b *5
81The Italian JobE5 6b ***5
82Please Lock Me AwayE5 6b **17
83King of KingsE6 6b ***8
84The NauseaE5 6b  
85KlondykeE3 6a *20
86Dirty CornerVS 4c 4
87Lucky StrikeE2 5b 1
88Helical HappinessHVS 5a  
89Gilt ComplexHVS 5b  
90Office PartyE5 6a * 
91The Eight-Legged Atomic Dustbin Will Eat ItselfE1 5b  
92A Series of Boring MantleshelvesS 4a 1
94Botch Weld JobE1 5b  
95Rockin' HorseE2 5c  
96Grond IIHVS 5a  
97The Absent Minded ProfessorE4 6a *3
98Tangerine TripE3 6a ***34
99Hunter KillerHVS 5a 2
100Falkland GrooveVS 4c *28
101Mu' AzibE1 5b *13
102Michael PortilloE2 5b *5
103Corned Beef DictatorE1 5a  
104SuperbHVS 5a *24
105HermesVS 4c  
106Any Which Way But LooseHVS 5a  
107Any Which Way You CanE2 5c ** 
108To Infinity and BeyondE4 6b ** 
109Le Mans FinishE1 5b * 
110Airborne AttackHVS 5a  
111Gardening LeaveVS 4c  
113Gold DiggerVS 4c 8
114TinkerbellVD 4
115Triple Bob MajorD 3
116Tocsin WallVS 5a 3
117Cad Eye the HeatherE1 5b  
118BellringerE1 5c *1
119Ding DongHVS 5b  
120Tintinnabulation DirectHVS 5b 3
121TintinnabulationVS 4b 3
122Blueberry HillHVS 5b * 
123Not in this LifeVS 4c  
124Brick ThickHVS 5a 3
125Terra FirmaHVS 5b 1
126The Friable SausageE3 6b  
127Cotton TerrorE1 5a *50
128For Whom the Bell TollsVS 4c  
129Plain BobS 4a **26
130Plain Bob VariantVS 4b 10
131Ticketybangf7A+ * 
133UnappealingM 1
135Fox's CornerVD 9
136Edipol!HS 4b *207
137Bossa NovaVS 4b 19
138Bay HorseE1 5b 17
139Rock LobsterE2 5c 3
140Skin GameE3 6a **15
141LandE4 6a  
142Terror CottaHVS 5a ***328
143TerrorificE4 6a 4
144Mission ImpossibleE2 5b 3
145High RevverE1 5b *4
146Double TripE2 5c **56
147Third PartyE3 5c *6
148First FinaleE1 5b ***324
149ZarkeHVS 5a **95
150Fingertip ControlE4 5c ***40
151Birthday CrackVS 4b 85
152EpiduralE5 6b 1
153Many Happy ReturnsE1 5a *237
154Ain't Nothing To ItE3 6a **33
155There's More to ThisE4 6b *4
156Dancing on the ValentineE2 5c 2
158MetamorphosisVS 4c ***471
159TransformationVS 4c *100
160PunchlineE1 5b 6
161Punch UpVS 5a 13
162CoconinoD 5
164SnorterVS 5a 3
165Wall and CrackVS 5a 2
166Telegraph AreteHS 4b 13
167QuickstepS 4a 6
168Bum and Grindf6C  
169PandooiE3 6a 1
170ShortyE2 5b 16
171Go Rightf7A+  
172Go Up SITf6B  
173nowhere manE1 5b 9
174Go Left SITf6C+ * 
175Side TrackVS 4c 1
176Sleeper BayVD 7
178MarkVS 4c 73
179WedgeHS 4b *442
180ElaineHVS 5c 34
181NightmareVS 4b *334
182MinorHVS 5c 23
183MiniD 27
184Writer's CrampS 4b 39
186BecauseHS 4a 68
187MeanwhileS 4a 264
188Whittaker's OriginalHS 4a **455
189After the BlitzVS 4b 139
190Alldred's OriginalVD 350
191Boozehound EliminateHVS 4c 2
192Side StepHS 4b 90
193Get This One in the Guide It's a GemVS 4b 16
194Original Wall TraverseS 28
195Last PostVD 10
196Grey Traverse *V4 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Collins

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I've added the routes from Robin's Lancashire Bouldering guidebook. Please let me know if I've made any mistakes.
Mark Collins - 21/Oct/14
Cleaned the ferns out of Klondyke:
Mark Collins - 16/Sep/14
The loose block on Many Happy Returns mentioned in the comment below was removed last year:-
Mark Collins - 21/Aug/14
Probably best to avoid the Coal Measure Crag on a windy day, if you don't want to get hit by falling shale, very alpine.
Mark Collins - 17/Aug/14
Iíve finished cleaning the part of Metamorphosis Wall between Coconino and Transformation. The whole wall is now a bit dusty, so you might want to give it a brush before climbing, as ever at Anglezarke. Also, please be careful as these routes have not been climbed in years and may still contain loose rock, especially in the dry stone wall at the top.
Mark Collins - 16/Aug/14
Was up there today and noticed some drilling has taken place above WALT'S WALL on the rock between the stakes. Totally no need, can only assume bolt practice for somone or a centre going over the top.
innesmac - 03/Mar/12
Warning; the large vertical block halfway up 'Many Happy Returns' is dangerously loose.If you place wires behind it and then fall off you'll have a permanent headache.
ruckman - 19/Jul/10
The routes are getting very sandy and dirty at the moment, groups need to stop top roping as it would seem to be the main cause. Would also be good to see more interest as its an amazing place to climb!
joe.91 - 30/Jun/10
DONT TOP ROPE!! most routes are dirty enough as it is, but top roping/abseiling makes it much worse.
liam - 23/Apr/09
Cross the road from the car park to so many good routes. Lots of 'cracks' providing anything from a finger-hold to full body jam! Anchors in abundance. Enjoy
noosarabbit - 15/Aug/04