Anglezarke Quarry

Climbs 181 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Safety Note: On the Coal Measures Crag there is a fixed line to lower off as the shale band cannot be crossed (easily). This is mentioned in the Rockfax guide. However, the line is clean broken on the far left hand side. Whatever you do don't clip into this or you'll be in for a quicker descent then anticipated. [Will Taylor 8/04]

Safety note:The horizontal ledge system just above the start of Metamorphosis is beginning is now showing signs of instability.Take care.

Access notes
Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Lancashire Bouldering (2014), Western Grit (2009), Lancashire Rock (1999),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2Just WilliamVD
3Soot JugglerHVS 5b
4Thomas's Wall ClimbHS 4a
5Year From NowE2 5c
6Whittacker's AlmanacS
7FlyerE3 6a *
8Traumatic EversionE1 5c *
9Lurch SITf7A *
10SparrowE4 6b
11Easy Upf3
12SheppyE3 6a *
13Trev The Trav Chavf6C *
14Age of ReasonE6 6b *
15SplitsE2 5b
16StormVS 4c **
17Layback Sitstart SITf4
18Bite Me SITf7A
20Finurgle SITf6B
21Arete Sitstartf4
22SunbeamVS 4b *
23KaibabHVS 5b
25Turkish DelightVS 5b
26Elder GrooveHS 4b
28Pedestal RouteD
29Rope ThiefHS 4b
30William the ConquerorHS 4b
31I'm SpartacusE5 6b
32I ClaudiusE4 6a
33The Rapidity of SleepE1 6a
35Flake OutVS 4c
36The Lean Mean Fighting MachineE4 6a **
37VishnuHVS 5a
38The Taciturn BoyE4 6b
39Gritstone RainHVS 5b *
40Schwartzennegger Mon AmourE5 6c *
41The Karma MechanicE6 6c **
42Stained SteelE7 7a **
43ShibbE4 6b **
44New JerusalemE4 6a **
45If You can't Lick 'em, Lick 'emE5 6c
46Supai CornerVS 4b *
47Bright Angel CornerVS 4c *
48Anasazi AreteE1 5b *
49Son of DicktrotE2 5c
50ZoroasterVS 4b
51Kelly's 'i'E2 5c
52The ChangeingE1 5a
53Thirsty WorkE1 5b
54Whiter Shade of ShaleHVS 5a
55Coal Measure ClimbHS 4a
57Midgebite WallVS 5a
58FleabiteHVS 5a
60First NightHS 4b
61YapiHS 4b
62I See No ShipsHVS 5a
63Reservoir CamelsE1 5b
64Beginner's ButtressD
65Night BeforeVD
66Stag PartyHS 4a *
67Wedding MarchVS 4c *
69Finger ChimneyHVS 5a *
70The FingerVS 4c *
71The ThumbS 4a *
72Glister WallS 4a *
73Give ThanksE3 5c
74SamarkandVS 4c ***
75The Midas TouchE6 6c **
76Fool's GoldE2 5c *
77AgrajagE3 6a
78The Golden TowerE2 5c ***
79Gates of PerceptionE4 6a ***
80Septic Think TankE5 6b *
81The Italian JobE5 6b ***
82Please Lock Me AwayE5 6b **
83King of KingsE6 6b ***
84The NauseaE5 6b
85KlondykeE3 6a *
86Dirty CornerVS 4c
87Lucky StrikeE2 5b
88Helical HappinessHVS 5a
89Gilt ComplexHVS 5b
90Office PartyE5 6a *
91The Eight-Legged Atomic Dustbin Will Eat ItselfE1 5b
92A Series of Boring MantleshelvesS 4a
94Botch Weld JobE1 5b
95Rockin' HorseE2 5c
96Grond IIHVS 5a
97The Absent Minded ProfessorE4 6a *
98Tangerine TripE3 6a ***
99Hunter KillerHVS 5a
100Falkland GrooveVS 4c *
101Mu' AzibE1 5b *
102Michael PortilloE2 5b *
103Corned Beef DictatorE1 5a
104SuperbHVS 5a *
105HermesVS 4c
106Any Which Way But LooseHVS 5a
107Any Which Way You CanE2 5c **
108To Infinity and BeyondE4 6b **
109Le Mans FinishE1 5b *
110Airborne AttackHVS 5a
111Gardening LeaveVS 4c
113Gold DiggerVS 4c
115Triple Bob MajorD
116Tocsin WallVS 5a
117Cad Eye the HeatherE1 5b
118BellringerE1 5c *
119Ding DongHVS 5b
120Tintinnabulation DirectHVS 5b
121TintinnabulationVS 4b
122Blueberry HillHVS 5b *
123Not in this LifeVS 4c
124Brick ThickHVS 5a
125Terra FirmaHVS 5b
126The Friable SausageE3 6b
127Cotton TerrorE1 5a *
128For Whom the Bell TollsVS 4c
129Plain BobS 4a **
130Plain Bob VariantVS 4b
131Ticketybangf7A+ *
135Fox's CornerVD
136Edipol!HS 4b *
137Bossa NovaVS 4b
138Bay HorseE1 5b
139Rock LobsterE2 5c
140Skin GameE3 6a **
141LandE4 6a
142Terror CottaHVS 5a ***
143TerrorificE4 6a
144Mission ImpossibleE2 5b
145High RevverE1 5b *
146Double TripE2 5c **
147Third PartyE3 5c *
148First FinaleE1 5b ***
149ZarkeHVS 5a **
150Fingertip ControlE4 5c ***
151Birthday CrackVS 4b *
152EpiduralE5 6b
153Many Happy ReturnsHVS 5a *
154Ain't Nothing To ItE3 6a **
155There's More to ThisE4 6b *
156Dancing on the ValentineE2 5c
158MetamorphosisVS 4c ***
159TransformationVS 4c *
160PunchlineE1 5b
161Punch UpVS 5a
164SnorterVS 5a
165Wall and CrackVS 5a
166Telegraph AreteHS 4b
167QuickstepS 4a
168Bum and Grindf6C
169PandooiE3 6a
170ShortyE2 5b
171Go Rightf7A+
172Go Up SITf6B
173nowhere manE1 5b
174Go Left SITf6C+ *
175Side TrackVS 4c
176Sleeper BayVD
178MarkVS 4c
179WedgeHS 4b *
180ElaineHVS 5c
181NightmareVS 4b *
182MinorHVS 5c
184Writer's CrampS 4b
186BecauseHS 4a
187MeanwhileS 4a
188Whittaker's OriginalHS 4a **
189After the BlitzVS 4b
190Alldred's OriginalVD
191Side-stepHS 4b
192Get This One in the Guide It's a GemVS 4b
193Original Wall TraverseS
194Last PostVD
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Collins

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I've added the routes from Robin's Lancashire Bouldering guidebook. Please let me know if I've made any mistakes.
Mark Collins - 21/Oct/14
Cleaned the ferns out of Klondyke:
Mark Collins - 16/Sep/14
The loose block on Many Happy Returns mentioned in the comment below was removed last year:-
Mark Collins - 21/Aug/14
Probably best to avoid the Coal Measure Crag on a windy day, if you don't want to get hit by falling shale, very alpine.
Mark Collins - 17/Aug/14
Iíve finished cleaning the part of Metamorphosis Wall between Coconino and Transformation. The whole wall is now a bit dusty, so you might want to give it a brush before climbing, as ever at Anglezarke. Also, please be careful as these routes have not been climbed in years and may still contain loose rock, especially in the dry stone wall at the top.
Mark Collins - 16/Aug/14
Was up there today and noticed some drilling has taken place above WALT'S WALL on the rock between the stakes. Totally no need, can only assume bolt practice for somone or a centre going over the top.
innesmac - 03/Mar/12
Warning; the large vertical block halfway up 'Many Happy Returns' is dangerously loose.If you place wires behind it and then fall off you'll have a permanent headache.
ruckman - 19/Jul/10
The routes are getting very sandy and dirty at the moment, groups need to stop top roping as it would seem to be the main cause. Would also be good to see more interest as its an amazing place to climb!
joe.91 - 30/Jun/10
DONT TOP ROPE!! most routes are dirty enough as it is, but top roping/abseiling makes it much worse.
liam - 23/Apr/09
Cross the road from the car park to so many good routes. Lots of 'cracks' providing anything from a finger-hold to full body jam! Anchors in abundance. Enjoy
noosarabbit - 15/Aug/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 16/Oct/2014

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