Climbs 48
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 18m a.s.l
Faces SW

simon, Surplomb De Ray F8B, Foxhole cove © simon rawlinson

Crag features

A great little bolted crag, well worth a visit for climbers in the F6c-7a+ range. In addition, most lines are close enough to each other to allow plenty of link up variations at grades from about 7a-7c (some of the best link-ups are named below). The majority of the older bolts were replaced in May 2009, though there are still some to be done on the two hardest routes. Take care at the very top of the routes as there can be some loose rock, especially on the far right of the crag.

The main crag seeps quite badly in places after long periods of rain (especially Goose In Lucy). The cave tends to need several dry days to return to condition, but the routes at either end of the crag can usually be climbed even if it has rained the day before. Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove is climbable whether wet or dry.


Below the cave there are several smaller slabs and zawns with a collection of mainly lower grade trad routes.

Approach notes

Park in the National Trust car park at Southgate. Head west (right) out of the car park along a private road with houses on your right. Just before you reach number 8 follow a path through some bushes towards the headland, then scramble down the left hand side of the slope and head back round to the right and into the cove.

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Guidebooks

Nest at foxhole literally a foot away from the belay rings on basil brush. They are crows, But the parents where upset that we where there. The other belays for the other routes around there are quite a distance away so aren't really affected. Also the belay rings are loose would of taken a spanner up but the crows where circling
dringocymru1988 - 10/May/16
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Climbs at this crag

19Licken Gypsy7a ** 
20Chicken Licken6c+ 61
21Foxy Chicken7a+ **23
22Fowl Play7b **12
23No Epoxy Au Oxley6b+ *19
24Gypsy Eyes6b+ *3
25Little Miss Lover7a *5
26Foxy Lady7a **69
27The Hooker7a **87
28Joy de Viva7a ***152
29Turkey Lurking7c *21
30Power Struggle7b+ *51
31Ducky Lucky7a+ **78
32Poultry In Motion7b+ **13
33Where The Fox That?7b+ **3
34The Day The Sky Fell In6b+ *192
 Deep Cut 
36Talbot's Peugeot
-
VS 5b 1
37Mind Of A Talbot
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VS 5a 1
38Antipodean Hero
-
HVS 5a 2
39Malice Down Under
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HVS 5a 2
40Maurice In Undies Land
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E1 5c 2
41The Illywhacker
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E4 6a 2
42Roygoi
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E5 6a 1
43Requin
-
HS  
44Deep Cut Slab
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HVD 3
 Wrinkle Slab 
46Direct
-
D 5
47East Corner
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M 4
 Grey Wall 
49West EdgeD 7
50West Side
-
D 6
51Cleft
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VD 6
52Ramp
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HVD 3
53East Corner
-
M 4

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