Climbs 46
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 18m a.s.l
Faces SW

simon, Surplomb De Ray F8B, Foxhole cove © simon rawlinson

Crag features

A great little bolted crag, well worth a visit for climbers in the F6c-7a+ range. In addition, most lines are close enough to each other to allow plenty of link up variations at grades from about 7a-7c (some of the best link-ups are named below). The majority of the older bolts were replaced in May 2009, though there are still some to be done on the two hardest routes. Take care at the very top of the routes as there can be some loose rock, especially on the far right of the crag.

The main crag seeps quite badly in places after long periods of rain (especially Goose In Lucy). The cave tends to need several dry days to return to condition, but the routes at either end of the crag can usually be climbed even if it has rained the day before. Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove is climbable whether wet or dry.

Below the cave there are several smaller slabs and zawns with a collection of mainly lower grade trad routes.

Approach notes

Park in the National Trust car park at Southgate. Head west (right) out of the car park along a private road with houses on your right. Just before you reach number 8 follow a path through some bushes towards the headland, then scramble down the left hand side of the slope and head back round to the right and into the cove.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


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Climbs at this crag

18Chicken Licken6c+ 56
19Foxy Chicken7a+ **20
20Fowl Play7b **12
21No Epoxy Au Oxley6b+ *19
22Gypsy Eyes6b+ *3
23Little Miss Lover7a *5
24Foxy Lady7a **62
25The Hooker7a **69
26Joy de Viva7a ***123
27Turkey Lurking7c *20
28Power Struggle7b+ **51
29Ducky Lucky7a+ **73
30Poultry In Motion7b+ **13
31Where The Fox That?7b+ **3
32The Day The Sky Fell In6b+ *180
 Deep Cut 
34Talbot's Peugeot
VS 5b 1
35Mind Of A Talbot
VS 5a 1
36Antipodean Hero
HVS 5a 1
37Malice Down Under
HVS 5a 1
38Maurice In Undies Land
E1 5c 1
39The Illywhacker
E4 6a 2
E5 6a 1
42Deep Cut Slab
 Wrinkle Slab 
D 5
45East Corner
M 4
 Grey Wall 
47West EdgeD 7
48West Side
D 6
VD 6
51East Corner
M 4

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