Climbs 46 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 18m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

A great little bolted crag, well worth a visit for climbers in the F6c-7a+ range. In addition, most lines are close enough to each other to allow plenty of link up variations at grades from about 7a-7c (some of the best link-ups are named below). The majority of the older bolts were replaced in May 2009, though there are still some to be done on the two hardest routes. Take care at the very top of the routes as there can be some loose rock, especially on the far right of the crag.

The main crag seeps quite badly in places after long periods of rain (especially Goose In Lucy). The cave tends to need several dry days to return to condition, but the routes at either end of the crag can usually be climbed even if it has rained the day before. Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove is climbable whether wet or dry.

Below the cave there are several smaller slabs and zawns with a collection of mainly lower grade trad routes.

Access notes

Park in the National Trust car park at Southgate. Head west (right) out of the car park along a private road with houses on your right. Just before you reach number 8 follow a path through some bushes towards the headland, then scramble down the left hand side of the slope and head back round to the right and into the cove.

Gower Rock (2012), Gower & South-East Wales (2004), (1995), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
27Turkey Lurking7c *19
28Power Struggle7b+ **48
29Ducky Lucky7a+ **68
30Poultry In Motion7b+ **12
31Where The Fox That?7b+ **2
32The Day The Sky Fell In6b+ *160
34Talbot's PeugeotVS 5b 1
35Mind Of A TalbotVS 5a 1
36Antipodean HeroHVS 5a 1
37Malice Down UnderHVS 5a 1
38Maurice In Undies LandE1 5c 1
39The IllywhackerE4 6a 2
40RoygoiE5 6a 1
42Deep Cut SlabHVD 2
44DirectD 5
45East CornerM 4
47West EdgeD 7
48West SideD 6
49CleftVD 6
50RampHVD 3
51East CornerM 4
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