Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 147m a.s.l
westend crag © lee davies
The crag has been re-bolted and cleaned over 2013/14. Only the few easy routes to the right of the main wall have not been restored. If you wish to give these all a good clean, drop me a line and I will then re-bolt them.
The crag features a slabby broken right hand side, a vertical central wall containing the main sports routes('Big Tissue' to 'Belly Up') and minor buttress to the left.
The main wall usually requires a good dry spell until it dries out completely. Once dry it stays dry and a couple of climbs can even be done in the heaviest of rain.
The crag faces east and so becomes dark quickly at dusk.
A new bouldering wall offers locals a very impressive training venue, standing approx 3.5m tall and at a 35 degree overhang. Often dry when the main quarry is, this small quarried wall offers as both a great training venue and tops a great day out at Tyle u Goch. It has any type of hold you could think of, holding both easy and very hard boulder problems from V0 to around a V7 from what i believe. Enjoy!
Although this crag is impossible to see from the road, it is less than 100m from the car.
There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car.
Walk back (south) for 20m whereupon an unmarked footpath (starting at chest height) leads gently uphill for 50m. The path then meets a disused railway track with a brick lined culvert beneath. Jump over the fence opposite and enter the quarry. Have fun.......
To find the bouldering wall, take the same directions and parking as Tyle y Goch quarry, arriving at the layby, instead of walking up the steady hill side trail to the main quarry, walk down the road towards West End (South) for approx 300m to arrive at a road side qually, walk up a steep slippy trail on the right side of the quarry before reaching a flat upper tier. Turn left and the wall will be directly in front of you below a 2ft step.