Currently the first bolts of all the routes have been vandalised, please bring a long clip stick.
The crag features a slabby broken right hand side, a vertical central wall containing the main sports routes('Big Tissue' to 'Belly Up') and minor buttress to the left.
The main wall usually requires a good dry spell until it dries out completely.
The crag faces east and midges usually infest the place after 7:00pm, so better as a morning / afternoon climbing spot.
Although this crag is impossible to see from the road, it is less than 100m from the car.
There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car.
Walk back (south) for 20m whereupon an unmarked footpath (starting at chest height) leads gently uphill for 50m. The path then meets a disused railway track with a brick lined culvert beneath. Jump over the fence opposite and enter the quarry. Have fun.......
|1||Pecker Patrol||E1 5b||1|
|2||The Postman||E2 5c|
|3||The Black Circular Cat||E3 5c|
|4||Rump And Scoop||6a *||13|
|6||Belly up||7a+ **||3|
|7||A Cleft Stick||7a **||10|
|8||The Pink Lady||6c *||13|
|9||Paradise Row||7a *||12|
|10||Fairies Wear Boots||6c+ *||10|
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|Popped in tonight. Put bolts in to reinstate Mislivings. Started to clean up the trad routes on the left, but needs more work! Good work in re-equipping the crag and cleaning it out folks.|
goi.ashmore - 23/Jul/14
|poped here on saterday bit damp in places came down only expecting to toprope due to missing bolts/rusted but someone has started to rebolt lovely to see tryed my first 7a outdoors good day out nice climbing after a good few days of dry weather due to seepage|
noddy.rhys - 21/Apr/13
|whent to the crag yesterday and sombody has smashed or flatend all but to of lower bolts still.ok for drop in|
ewog - 02/Apr/09
|Went there yesterday and although this is an awesome wall it is still quite wet and greasy.........|
pinnochio - 07/Feb/08
|Spent the weekend at this crag. Loads of fun!! Will be returning.|
Nathan275 - 21/Oct/07