Climbs 25
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 147m a.s.l
Faces E

westend crag © lee davies

Crag features

The crag has been re-bolted and cleaned over 2013/14. Only the few easy routes to the right of the main wall have not been restored. If you wish to give these all a good clean, drop me a line and I will then re-bolt them.

The crag features a slabby broken right hand side, a vertical central wall containing the main sports routes('Big Tissue' to 'Belly Up') and minor buttress to the left.

The main wall usually requires a good dry spell until it dries out completely. Once dry it stays dry and a couple of climbs can even be done in the heaviest of rain.

The crag faces east and so becomes dark quickly at dusk.

A new bouldering wall offers locals a very impressive training venue, standing approx 3.5m tall and at a 35 degree overhang. Often dry when the main quarry is, this small quarried wall offers as both a great training venue and tops a great day out at Tyle u Goch. It has any type of hold you could think of, holding both easy and very hard boulder problems from V0 to around a V7 from what i believe. Enjoy! 

Approach notes

Although this crag is impossible to see from the road, it is less than 100m from the car.
There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car.
Walk back (south) for 20m whereupon an unmarked footpath (starting at chest height) leads gently uphill for 50m. The path then meets a disused railway track with a brick lined culvert beneath. Jump over the fence opposite and enter the quarry. Have fun.......

To find the bouldering wall, take the same directions and parking as Tyle y Goch quarry, arriving at the layby, instead of walking up the steady hill side trail to the main quarry, walk down the road towards West End (South) for approx 300m to arrive at a road side qually, walk up a steep slippy trail on the right side of the quarry before reaching a flat upper tier. Turn left and the wall will be directly in front of you below a 2ft step.

Around 150 meters away from the main quarry i have discovered a small bouldering wall. It stands at around 3.5 meters tall and on an angle of 35 degrees overhanging. Ive spent many hours here making up my own boulder problems withdinos, technical and easy routes. This wall is perfect to finish a day off at the end of a days climb at Tyle Y Goch quarry. The wall is quarried and sharp in places however very enjoyable. To find it is rather difficult. Walk down the road from Tyle Y Goch car park towards West End, you will see a small overgrown quarry on the right. Take a steep, muddy trail going up the right side of the quarry. Before the trail turns right, take a left into the upper tear of the road side quarry. You will see the wall in front of you which is set below a 2ft step. Enjoy!
MathewWright1998 - 25/Sep/15
Popped in tonight. Put bolts in to reinstate Mislivings. Started to clean up the trad routes on the left, but needs more work! Good work in re-equipping the crag and cleaning it out folks.
goi.ashmore - 23/Jul/14
poped here on saterday bit damp in places came down only expecting to toprope due to missing bolts/rusted but someone has started to rebolt lovely to see tryed my first 7a outdoors good day out nice climbing after a good few days of dry weather due to seepage
noddy.rhys - 21/Apr/13
whent to the crag yesterday and sombody has smashed or flatend all but to of lower bolts still.ok for drop in
ewog - 02/Apr/09
Went there yesterday and although this is an awesome wall it is still quite wet and greasy.........
pinnochio - 07/Feb/08
Spent the weekend at this crag. Loads of fun!! Will be returning.
Nathan275 - 21/Oct/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Pecker Patrol
E1 5b 1
2The Postman
E2 5c  
3The Black Circular Cat
E3 5c  
4Rump And Scoop6a *16
5Root Canal
6a 7
6Belly up
7a+ **6
7A Cleft Stick7a **12
8The Pink Lady6c *16
9Paradise Row7a *12
10Fairies Wear Boots6c+ *14
11Mislivings7a *7
12The Four Minute Tyle7b *1
13Peachy6b+ **16
14The Big Tissue
6b+ 9
15Cheeky AreteS 5
16Bore Hole
3 14
17The Ring
3+ 12
18Suppose a Tree
4a 13
19High Moon6a+ *25
20Enema Of The Affair6c+ **18
21Jumping Jack Flash
4c 19
22Lilly of The Valleys
3+ 18
23Buen Culo
4c 18
24Mal Culo
4c 20

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer alan rosier