Climbs 294
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 225m a.s.l
Faces NE

The relief of latching the top hold!! What a run out!! © sincybabes

Crag features

An impressive quarry, owned by the BMC, with routes up to 26m tall. The best ones range from HS to E6. There is also some excellent bouldering. Some parts, including the striking prow, are quick drying, whereas others stay damp and green for much of the year.

Approach notes

Park just downhill from the Wilton Arms and head up the hill behind the car park.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Rock up to Wilton 1 on Sat 14th/Sun 15th Sept..for the First Ever "WiltonFest". http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=550408 Much work has also been done to clean up some great routes on the lesser used sections of the quarry too, ready for leaders! Get down the allotment end to climb some newly cleaned quality routes that haven't had ascents in decades!
mcb - 02/Sep/13
Wilton One\'s one of the crags that\'s easily reachable from Bolton. I\'ve climbed there, and think it\'s one of the best crags in the area, well worth a look. There are plenty of stakes, suitable for self-protected routes and top-roping. The easiest routes are around the so called \"graveyard\" area, (yeah, very reassuring!) and at the opposite end of the wall, on the extreme left. The hardest routes are in the middle of the wall. And this is a big wall, a good three days solid climbing to be done here. Check out rockmonkey.co.uk for relevant information for young UK climbers.
Will - 31/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Woods 
2Sideshowf5  
3The Gruntf6A  
4Ell's AreteV4 **2
5Barbara's Manf7B * 
6Bean Bag Wetf5  
 The Allotment 
8The Deep
-
HVS 5a 2
9Barbara AnnHVS 5b  
10Rhonda
-
A2 3
11GrassyHVS 5a 3
12Rugosity Atrocity
-
E2 5b *9
13Willow Wall
-
HS 4a 6
14Asleep for Years
-
VS 4b 11
15Press Intrusions
-
E2 5b 8
16Falling Wall
-
E1 5b 1
17Willow Arete
-
E1 5b *13
18It'll Be Rude Not ToE6 6c **2
19Kurma
-
VS 4b 2
20JoanneE2 5b  
21Adidas
-
HVS 5a 1
22Puma
-
E3 5c **7
23The Foot of an Oncoming Mexican
-
E4 6b * 
24Zapling
-
E3 6a *1
25Merchant Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
26La Rue
-
HVS 5a  
27Perimeter WalkE7 6b *4
28Beyond the Perimeter
-
E5 6a **5
29Flimnap the Pirate
-
VS 4c *7
30Reeling in the Years
-
VS 4c 4
31Big Al
-
E3 5c 1
32Baby Arete
-
HVS 5a 1
33Rope 'n' Rubber
-
E2 5c  
34Grotty Muckden
-
VD 3
35Midget GemE3 6a  
36Tryptophane
-
HS 4a *4
37Pot-Pourri
-
VS 4c  
38Under the Mat
-
E4 6a  
39Lady Grinning Soul
-
HVS 5a  
40Valine
-
VS 4c 2
41Land
-
VS 4b 3
42Boy Racer
-
E5 6a 3
43Proline
-
E1 5b *5
44First Cut
-
HVS 5a *6
45Green WallVS 4b *7
46The Pretentious Gallery
-
E5 6b **8
47Dinah
-
E1 5b 7
48Eliminator
-
E3 5c *1
49Ruby
-
VS 4c 6
50Insertion
-
HVS 5b 2
51Jean
-
VS 4c *13
52Gravitational Experiment
-
E4 6b 1
53Crow's-nest
-
E1 5b 1
54Headbutt Wall
-
E4 6a 1
55Eccles' Escalator
-
VD 6
56Lime Street
-
S 4a 3
57Ordinary Route
-
E1 5b  
 Eliminator 
59Snakesf3  
60Simon Saysf7B  
61Head Butt Wallf6B * 
62Knee Buttf7A+ * 
63Pellet Wallf6B  
64Cravenf7A+  
65Gravitational Experimentf6C * 
66Right Bastardf7B  
67Left Bastardf7A  
68Eliminator Rightf6B  
69Eliminator Leftf6B 1
 The Pitface 
71Is it Cheesecake or Meringue?
-
HVS 5a 1
72Power of the Mekon
-
E1 5b *1
73GrovelS 4a 1
74Regatta de Blanc
-
VS 4c **11
75Streaker
-
VS 4c 2
76Georgina
-
S 4a 2
77Jaws
-
HVS 5a *1
78The Mouth
-
VS 4c  
79Ummagumma
-
HVS 5b 1
80The Devil's Alternative
-
E5 6b  
81DeodandE1 5b *25
82Silently Screaming
-
E3 6a **6
83Transfiguration
-
VD 2
84ItE1 5c 3
85ThisVS 4c 2
86The Pit and the Pendulum
-
E6 6c ** 
87Dereck the Dead DuckE5 6c  
88Erythrocyte
-
VS 4c 2
89Sleepwalk
-
E4 6a ***3
90Born SlippyE3 6a  
91TornadoHVS 5a 2
92Astradyne
-
E5 6b ** 
93Houses of the Holy
-
VS 4c  
 The Mound 
95Greasy Spoon Yard Hardf7A+  
96Greasy Spoon Yardf6B  
97Once You Popf6C+  
98Centrefoldf7B  
99Went Like Furyf7B+  
100Just a Minutef7A  
101Snagglepussf6A  
 Chimney Buttress 
103ParadoxE2 5b ***173
104ParasiteE5 6b **6
105Leucocyte Left-handE2 5c **56
106Leucocyte Right-handVS 4c **129
107The HackerE4 6b *6
108The Hacker (Boulder Problem)f6A+ *1
109Central RouteE1 5b ***356
110MaxE3 5c ***152
111Wombat ChimneyE1 5b **125
112The Soot MonkeyE6 6c **6
113Toxic Billberrys
-
E8 7a  
114SteeplejackE1 5c **3
115LoopyE4 6a ***32
116Clean SweepE5 6a **6
117FriendsHVS 4c 3
118The CornerVS 4c *25
119L'Arete
-
E4 6a 3
120L'Arete Traversef6C **1
121Pocket Wallf6A+ 1
 The Prow 
123PeanutsHVS 5a *23
124Horrock's RouteVS 4b 62
125Horrock's Route DirectE1 5b  
126FingernailS 4a **449
127Orange PeelS 4a *130
128SarahHVS 5a 2
129Flingle BuntVS 4c *179
130Spider CrackHVS 5a *59
131Jubilee ClimbE2 5c 22
132Eastern TerraceM 82
133Lazy FridayE4 5c **40
134CameoE1 5a ***562
135Pathetique
-
E5 6b *2
136Wedgewood
-
HVS 5a 8
137Big Frenchief5 3
138ChristeenaVS 4c **310
139ChristinaVS 4c **22
140Christine's Socksf4+ 5
141Leading Questionf6A 1
142Christine AreteE3 5c *28
143DawnHVS 5b ***549
144InnominateE3 6b 11
145EliminateVS 4c **331
146AnnE1 5b *415
147CheatE3 5b **269
148Cheatf4+ 2
149Modern GirlE4 5c *6
150Arete Sitstartf5 2
151Rambling RouteVD *362
152Recessf3 2
153Clampf4 3
154Bird ChimneyS 4a *321
155Flywalk Slabf7A *1
156FlywalkVS 4b **434
157Flywalk Direct
-
VS 5c 52
158Flywalkf5+ *2
159FlytrapHVS 5a 66
160Veteran Cosmic RockerE4 6c 2
161Auto de FayeE3 5c  
162ScimitarD 123
163Max's DilemmaM 3
164HelixE1 1
 Opposite Wall 
166Geoff's Wall
-
E1 6a  
167Baby's Bottom
-
HS 4b  
168Brontosaurus
-
S 4a 3
169Stegosaurus
-
VD 4
170Nappy Rash
-
E1 5b  
171Opposition
-
VD 9
172Spec Crack
-
D 5
 Jimmy Nip Buttress 
174Powerage
-
E5 6b  
175Jimmy Nip
-
E3 6a *3
176Titanosaurus
-
E4 6a  
177The Boulder Problem in the SkyE4 6b 1
 White Slab 
179White Crack
-
VD 1
180GoonHVS 5a *2
181Crater Traitor
-
E6 6a 1
182Red Flowers are Red
-
E2 5b  
183Dandelion GrooveS 4a 4
184PrickpocketHVS 5a  
185Snakebite
-
E4 6a  
186Manglewurzle RibHVS 5a 9
187Isle of WhiteE4 6a ***21
188White Slabs BuntE3 6a ***56
189White LightninE5 6b **1
190Strawberry KissE7 6b *4
191Remembrance Corner
-
VS 4c 25
 Remembarete 
193Remembaretef6A *1
 G Buttress 
195Side Wallf6B 1
196Lone Aretef5+ 2
197Break Dynof6A 1
198Lone Arete Rightf5+ 2
 Grey Wall 
200SobeitE3 5c **17
201SupercrackE3 5c ***81
202Life in the Fast LaneE2 5c 1
203In Memoriam
-
E2 5c 1
204PatienceHVS 5a *8
205Impatience
-
E2 5c  
206DraculaE2 5b 3
207Niche Indirect
-
E1 5c  
208Western TerraceS 4a *10
209VampireE3 6a *1
210Scary GeorgeE4 6a ** 
211SpikeE4 6a **14
212Run Wild, Run FreeE6 6b ***1
213Ego TripE5 6b **3
 The Pit 
215K.P.E6 6b **7
216JosserE5 6a **1
217Welcome to the Pleasuredome
-
E5 6b * 
218Frightful FredVS 4c **16
219Jimmy Mac, Bin Man ExtraordinaireE2 6a  
220Bohemia
-
HVS 5b 5
221Daring DanE5 6b ** 
222AdrenalinE4 6a ***22
223Chocolate GirlE7 6c **6
224Grey And White GirdleHVS 5a *1
225Plenty of Zzzzs
-
E2 5b ** 
226The Finishf5 1
 Red Wall 
228KnuckledusterHVS 5a *24
229The Fist FinishHVS 5b 2
230GiganticE8 6c **3
231Thin AirE5 6a * 
232Hot AirE5 6b * 
233Nothing FantasticE3 5c *6
234BlackoutVS 4b **62
235Clapped OutE4 6b *3
236Master SpyE4 6a ***48
237Counter IntelligenceE5 6b **11
238Master Spy DirectE4 6a ***32
239Wipe OutE2 5b ***143
240Wipe Out startV0- 5
241Wipe Out variation 1V1 2
242Black MambaE4 6b **9
243Mamba startV0- 4
244Shaggy MambaE6 6b ** 
245Black Dog Blues
-
E5 6b  
246Shaggy DogE4 5c **3
247Kettle CrackE2 5c  
248Fall Out Chimney
-
HS 4a 2
249MyrmidonE5 6b * 
250Overtaker's ButtressE3 5c 1
251Tonight's the NightE4 5c  
252Twazack Left-hand
-
VS 4c 2
253Twazack Right-hand
-
VS 4c 1
254Rebellion
-
E1 5b  
255Roll Over
-
E2 5b 1
256Dinosaur
-
HVS 4c 2
257Slap Happy
-
E3 6a  
258Knock OutVS 4c *54
259Great SlabVS 4c *11
260Virgin's DilemmaHVS 5a **63
261999HS 4c ***599
262Left EdgeHVS 4a **17
 Snakey B 
264Sitting DucksV0- 4
265Baby Faef6B+ 2
266Snakey BV6 18
 The Graveyard 
268Coffin Crack
-
VS 4c 3
269Green Chimney
-
D 3
270Chance Encounters
-
E3 5c * 
271Susan
-
VS 4c 1
272La Morte
-
HVS 5b 1
273Undertaker's Crack
-
VS 4c 2
274The Ultimate SacrificeE6 6a ** 
275Join the Army, Get Yourself Killed
-
E5 6a **7
276Soixante-neuf
-
E2 5c *7
277Graveyard Direct
-
S 4a 5
278Graveyard Slab
-
HS 4a 10
279Laid BackV3 5
280Laid Back variation 1V5 2
281Laid Back variation 2V2 5
282Graveyard SlapV1 7
283Graveyard Slap SitterV3 3
284Graveyard Ordinary
-
M 1
285Bolton Buttress
-
S 4a 2
286Mary
-
VD 1
287Saturation Point
-
HVS 5a  
288Coffin Digger's Spade
-
S  
289Catalespy
-
HS 4b  
290Neddy's Walk
-
VD 1
291Crash and Burn
-
HVS 5a  
292Ape
-
VD 3
293Squeeze Mef6B  
294The Very Cheekf6B 4
295Horrorbixf6A *12
296Overhanging Weetabix
-
E2 5c 2
297The Crack (aka Overhanging Weetabix)V0- 9
298The Overhang
-
VS 18
299The Movef7A *7
300The Move Sit Start
-
f7A+ 3
301The Move (no back wall)
-
f7B 2
302Horror AreteVS 5b *18
303Horror Aretef6A *16
304Beer Bellyf6B+ 6
305Beer Belly Sit Startf6C *5
306Avoidance
-
D 9
307Chocky
-
S 7
308Tombstoned
-
HVS 5a  
 Unknown location 
310Dave's Problem
-
V0 2
311Happy Campus
-
V1 2
312Munchkin Traverse
-
V1 2

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