Climbs 284
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 225m a.s.l
Faces NE

The relief of latching the top hold!! What a run out!! © sincybabes

Crag features

An impressive quarry, owned by the BMC, with routes up to 26m tall. The best ones range from HS to E6. There is also some excellent bouldering. Some parts, including the striking prow, are quick drying, whereas others stay damp and green for much of the year.

Approach notes

Park just downhill from the Wilton Arms and head up the hill behind the car park.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Rock up to Wilton 1 on Sat 14th/Sun 15th Sept..for the First Ever "WiltonFest". http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=550408 Much work has also been done to clean up some great routes on the lesser used sections of the quarry too, ready for leaders! Get down the allotment end to climb some newly cleaned quality routes that haven't had ascents in decades!
mcb - 02/Sep/13
Wilton One\'s one of the crags that\'s easily reachable from Bolton. I\'ve climbed there, and think it\'s one of the best crags in the area, well worth a look. There are plenty of stakes, suitable for self-protected routes and top-roping. The easiest routes are around the so called \"graveyard\" area, (yeah, very reassuring!) and at the opposite end of the wall, on the extreme left. The hardest routes are in the middle of the wall. And this is a big wall, a good three days solid climbing to be done here. Check out rockmonkey.co.uk for relevant information for young UK climbers.
Will - 31/May/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Woods 
2Sideshowf5  
3The Gruntf6A  
4Ell's AreteV4 **2
5Barbara's Manf7B * 
6Bean Bag Wetf5  
 The Allotment 
8The Deep
-
HVS 5a 2
9Barbara AnnHVS 5b  
10Rhonda
-
A2 3
11GrassyHVS 5a 3
12Rugosity Atrocity
-
E2 5b *8
13Willow Wall
-
HS 4a 6
14Asleep for Years
-
VS 4b 11
15Press Intrusions
-
E2 5b 7
16Falling Wall
-
E1 5b 1
17Willow Arete
-
E1 5b *13
18It'll Be Rude Not ToE6 6c **2
19Kurma
-
VS 4b 2
20JoanneE2 5b  
21Adidas
-
HVS 5a 1
22Puma
-
E3 5c **7
23The Foot of an Oncoming Mexican
-
E4 6b * 
24Zapling
-
E3 6a *1
25Merchant Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
26La Rue
-
HVS 5a  
27Perimeter WalkE7 6b *4
28Beyond the Perimeter
-
E5 6a **5
29Flimnap the Pirate
-
VS 4c *7
30Reeling in the Years
-
VS 4c 4
31Big Al
-
E3 5c 1
32Baby Arete
-
HVS 5a 1
33Rope 'n' Rubber
-
E2 5c  
34Grotty Muckden
-
VD 3
35Midget GemE3 6a  
36Tryptophane
-
HS 4a *4
37Pot-Pourri
-
VS 4c  
38Under the Mat
-
E4 6a  
39Lady Grinning Soul
-
HVS 5a  
40Valine
-
VS 4c 2
41Land
-
VS 4b 3
42Boy Racer
-
E5 6a 3
43Proline
-
E1 5b *5
44First Cut
-
HVS 5a *6
45Green WallVS 4b *7
46The Pretentious Gallery
-
E5 6b **6
47Dinah
-
E1 5b 7
48Eliminator
-
E3 5c *1
49Ruby
-
VS 4c 6
50Insertion
-
HVS 5b 2
51Jean
-
VS 4c *13
52Gravitational Experiment
-
E4 6b 1
53Crow's-nest
-
E1 5b 1
54Headbutt Wall
-
E4 6a 1
55Eccles' Escalator
-
VD 6
56Lime Street
-
S 4a 3
57Ordinary Route
-
E1 5b  
 Eliminator 
59Snakesf3  
60Simon Saysf7B  
61Head Butt Wallf6B * 
62Knee Buttf7A+ * 
63Pellet Wallf6B  
64Cravenf7A+  
65Gravitational Experimentf6C * 
66Right Bastardf7B  
67Left Bastardf7A  
68Eliminator Rightf6B  
69Eliminator Leftf6B  
 The Pitface 
71Is it Cheesecake or Meringue?
-
HVS 5a 1
72Power of the Mekon
-
E1 5b *1
73GrovelS 4a 1
74Regatta de Blanc
-
VS 4c **11
75Streaker
-
VS 4c 2
76Georgina
-
S 4a 2
77Jaws
-
HVS 5a *1
78The Mouth
-
VS 4c  
79Ummagumma
-
HVS 5b 1
80The Devil's Alternative
-
E5 6b  
81DeodandE1 5b *22
82Silently Screaming
-
E3 6a **6
83Transfiguration
-
VD 2
84ItE1 5c 3
85ThisVS 4c 2
86The Pit and the Pendulum
-
E6 6c ** 
87Dereck the Dead DuckE5 6c  
88Erythrocyte
-
VS 4c 2
89Sleepwalk
-
E4 6a ***3
90Born SlippyE3 6a  
91TornadoHVS 5a 2
92Astradyne
-
E5 6b ** 
93Houses of the Holy
-
VS 4c  
 The Mound 
95Greasy Spoon Yard Hardf7A+  
96Greasy Spoon Yardf6B  
97Once You Popf6C+  
98Centrefoldf7B  
99Went Like Furyf7B+  
100Just a Minutef7A  
101Snagglepussf6A  
 Chimney Buttress 
103ParadoxE2 5b ***148
104ParasiteE5 6b **6
105Leucocyte Left-handE2 5c **55
106Leucocyte Right-handVS 4c **122
107The HackerE4 6b *5
108Central RouteE1 5b ***304
109MaxE3 5c ***132
110Wombat ChimneyE1 5b **119
111The Soot MonkeyE6 6c **6
112Toxic Billberrys
-
E8 7a  
113SteeplejackE1 5c **3
114LoopyE4 6a ***25
115Clean SweepE5 6a **6
116FriendsHVS 4c 3
117The CornerVS 4c *25
118L'Arete
-
E4 6a 3
119L'Arete Traversef6C **1
 The Prow 
121PeanutsHVS 5a *23
122Horrock's RouteVS 4b 61
123Horrock's Route DirectE1 5b  
124FingernailS 4a **426
125Orange PeelS 4a *125
126SarahHVS 5a 2
127Flingle BuntVS 4c *164
128Spider CrackHVS 5a *54
129Jubilee ClimbE2 5c 22
130Eastern TerraceM 81
131Lazy FridayE4 5c **36
132CameoE1 5a ***523
133Pathetique
-
E5 6b *2
134Wedgewood
-
HVS 5a 6
135Big Frenchief5 2
136ChristeenaVS 4c **295
137ChristinaVS 4c **20
138Christine's Socksf4+ 3
139Christine AreteE3 5c *26
140DawnHVS 5b ***485
141InnominateE3 6b 11
142EliminateVS 4c **305
143AnnE1 5b *374
144CheatE3 5b **239
145Modern GirlE4 5c *6
146Rambling RouteVD *339
147Bird ChimneyS 4a *307
148Flywalk Slabf7A *1
149FlywalkVS 4b **412
150Flywalk Direct
-
VS 5c 49
151FlytrapHVS 5a 66
152Veteran Cosmic RockerE4 6c 2
153Auto de FayeE3 5c  
154ScimitarD 118
155Max's DilemmaM 2
156HelixE1 1
 Opposite Wall 
158Geoff's Wall
-
E1 6a  
159Baby's Bottom
-
HS 4b  
160Brontosaurus
-
S 4a 3
161Stegosaurus
-
VD 4
162Nappy Rash
-
E1 5b  
163Opposition
-
VD 9
164Spec Crack
-
D 5
 Jimmy Nip Buttress 
166Powerage
-
E5 6b  
167Jimmy Nip
-
E3 6a *3
168Titanosaurus
-
E4 6a  
169The Boulder Problem in the SkyE4 6b 1
 White Slab 
171White Crack
-
VD 1
172GoonHVS 5a *2
173Crater Traitor
-
E6 6a 1
174Red Flowers are Red
-
E2 5b  
175Dandelion GrooveS 4a 4
176PrickpocketHVS 5a  
177Snakebite
-
E4 6a  
178Manglewurzle RibHVS 5a 9
179Isle of WhiteE4 6a ***21
180White Slabs BuntE3 6a ***46
181White LightninE5 6b **1
182Strawberry KissE7 6b *4
183Remembrance Corner
-
VS 4c 24
 Remembarete 
 G Buttress 
186Lone Aretef5+ 1
187Break Dynof6A 1
188Lone Arete Rightf5+ 1
 Grey Wall 
190SobeitE3 5c **17
191SupercrackE3 5c ***67
192Life in the Fast LaneE2 5c 1
193In Memoriam
-
E2 5c 1
194PatienceHVS 5a *8
195Impatience
-
E2 5c  
196DraculaE2 5b 3
197Niche Indirect
-
E1 5c  
198Western TerraceS 4a *10
199VampireE3 6a *1
200Scary GeorgeE4 6a ** 
201SpikeE4 6a **14
202Run Wild, Run FreeE6 6b ***1
203Ego TripE5 6b **3
 The Pit 
205K.P.E6 6b **7
206JosserE5 6a **1
207Welcome to the Pleasuredome
-
E5 6b * 
208Frightful FredVS 4c **16
209Jimmy Mac, Bin Man ExtraordinaireE2 6a  
210Bohemia
-
HVS 5b 5
211Daring DanE5 6b ** 
212AdrenalinE4 6a ***15
213Chocolate GirlE7 6c **6
214Grey And White GirdleHVS 5a *1
215Plenty of Zzzzs
-
E2 5b ** 
216The Finishf5 1
 Red Wall 
218KnuckledusterHVS 5a *23
219The Fist FinishHVS 5b 2
220GiganticE8 6c **3
221Thin AirE5 6a * 
222Hot AirE5 6b * 
223Nothing FantasticE3 5c *6
224BlackoutVS 4b **62
225Clapped OutE4 6b *3
226Master SpyE4 6a ***41
227Counter IntelligenceE5 6b **11
228Master Spy DirectE4 6a ***25
229Wipe OutE2 5b ***121
230Wipe Out startV0- 4
231Wipe Out variation 1V1 2
232Black MambaE4 6b **9
233Mamba startV0- 4
234Shaggy MambaE6 6b ** 
235Black Dog Blues
-
E5 6b  
236Shaggy DogE4 5c **3
237Kettle CrackE2 5c  
238Fall Out Chimney
-
HS 4a 2
239MyrmidonE5 6b * 
240Overtaker's ButtressE3 5c 1
241Tonight's the NightE4 5c  
242Twazack Left-hand
-
VS 4c 2
243Twazack Right-hand
-
VS 4c 1
244Rebellion
-
E1 5b  
245Roll Over
-
E2 5b 1
246Dinosaur
-
HVS 4c 2
247Slap Happy
-
E3 6a  
248Knock OutVS 4c *54
249Great SlabVS 4c *11
250Virgin's DilemmaHVS 5a **62
251999HS 4c ***550
252Left EdgeHVS 4a **17
 Snakey B 
254Sitting DucksV0- 2
255Baby Faef6B+  
256Snakey BV6 9
 The Graveyard 
258Coffin Crack
-
VS 4c 3
259Green Chimney
-
D 3
260Chance Encounters
-
E3 5c * 
261Susan
-
VS 4c 1
262La Morte
-
HVS 5b 1
263Undertaker's Crack
-
VS 4c 2
264The Ultimate SacrificeE6 6a ** 
265Join the Army, Get Yourself Killed
-
E5 6a **7
266Soixante-neuf
-
E2 5c *7
267Graveyard Direct
-
S 4a 5
268Graveyard Slab
-
HS 4a 10
269Laid BackV3 5
270Laid Back variation 1V5 2
271Laid Back variation 2V2 5
272Graveyard SlapV1 7
273Graveyard Slap SitterV3 3
274Graveyard Ordinary
-
M 1
275Bolton Buttress
-
S 4a 2
276Mary
-
VD 1
277Saturation Point
-
HVS 5a  
278Coffin Digger's Spade
-
S  
279Catalespy
-
HS 4b  
280Neddy's Walk
-
VD 1
281Crash and Burn
-
HVS 5a  
282Ape
-
VD 3
283Squeeze Mef6B  
284The Very Cheekf6B 4
285Horrorbixf6A *9
286Overhanging Weetabix
-
E2 5c 2
287The Crack (aka Overhanging Weetabix)V0- 9
288The Overhang
-
VS 18
289The Movef7A *5
290The Move Sit Start
-
f7A+ 2
291The Move (no back wall)
-
f7B 2
292Horror AreteVS 5b *18
293Horror Aretef6A *12
294Beer Bellyf6B+ 5
295Beer Belly Sit Startf6C *4
296Avoidance
-
D 9
297Chocky
-
S 7
298Tombstoned
-
HVS 5a  
 Unknown location 
300Dave's Problem
-
V0 2
301Happy Campus
-
V1 2
302Munchkin Traverse
-
V1 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer yossarian714