Climbs 282
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 225m a.s.l
Faces NE

The relief of latching the top hold!! What a run out!! © sincybabes

Crag features

An impressive quarry, owned by the BMC, with routes up to 26m tall. The best ones range from HS to E6. There is also some excellent bouldering. Some parts, including the striking prow, are quick drying, whereas others stay damp and green for much of the year.

Approach notes

Park just downhill from the Wilton Arms and head up the hill behind the car park.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Rock up to Wilton 1 on Sat 14th/Sun 15th Sept..for the First Ever "WiltonFest". http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=550408 Much work has also been done to clean up some great routes on the lesser used sections of the quarry too, ready for leaders! Get down the allotment end to climb some newly cleaned quality routes that haven't had ascents in decades!
mcb - 02/Sep/13
Wilton One\'s one of the crags that\'s easily reachable from Bolton. I\'ve climbed there, and think it\'s one of the best crags in the area, well worth a look. There are plenty of stakes, suitable for self-protected routes and top-roping. The easiest routes are around the so called \"graveyard\" area, (yeah, very reassuring!) and at the opposite end of the wall, on the extreme left. The hardest routes are in the middle of the wall. And this is a big wall, a good three days solid climbing to be done here. Check out rockmonkey.co.uk for relevant information for young UK climbers.
Will - 31/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Woods 
2Sideshowf5  
3The Gruntf6A  
4Ell's AreteV4 **2
5Barbara's Manf7B * 
6Bean Bag Wetf5  
 The Allotment 
8The Deep
-
HVS 5a 2
9Barbara AnnHVS 5b  
10Rhonda
-
A2 3
11GrassyHVS 5a 3
12Rugosity Atrocity
-
E2 5b *8
13Willow Wall
-
HS 4a 6
14Asleep for Years
-
VS 4b 11
15Press Intrusions
-
E2 5b 7
16Falling Wall
-
E1 5b 1
17Willow Arete
-
E1 5b *13
18It'll Be Rude Not ToE6 6c **2
19Kurma
-
VS 4b 2
20JoanneE2 5b  
21Adidas
-
HVS 5a 1
22Puma
-
E3 5c **7
23The Foot of an Oncoming Mexican
-
E4 6b * 
24Zapling
-
E3 6a *1
25Merchant Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
26La Rue
-
HVS 5a  
27Perimeter WalkE7 6b *4
28Beyond the Perimeter
-
E5 6a **5
29Flimnap the Pirate
-
VS 4c *7
30Reeling in the Years
-
VS 4c 4
31Big Al
-
E3 5c 1
32Baby Arete
-
HVS 5a 1
33Rope 'n' Rubber
-
E2 5c  
34Grotty Muckden
-
VD 3
35Midget GemE3 6a  
36Tryptophane
-
HS 4a *2
37Pot-Pourri
-
VS 4c  
38Under the Mat
-
E4 6a  
39Lady Grinning Soul
-
HVS 5a  
40Valine
-
VS 4c 2
41Land
-
VS 4b 3
42Boy Racer
-
E5 6a 3
43Proline
-
E1 5b *5
44First Cut
-
HVS 5a *6
45Green WallVS 4b *7
46The Pretentious Gallery
-
E5 6b **6
47Dinah
-
E1 5b 7
48Eliminator
-
E3 5c *1
49Ruby
-
VS 4c 6
50Insertion
-
HVS 5b 2
51Jean
-
VS 4c *13
52Gravitational Experiment
-
E4 6b 1
53Crow's-nest
-
E1 5b 1
54Headbutt Wall
-
E4 6a 1
55Eccles' Escalator
-
VD 6
56Lime Street
-
S 4a 3
57Ordinary Route
-
E1 5b  
 Eliminator 
59Snakesf3  
60Simon Saysf7B  
61Head Butt Wallf6B * 
62Knee Buttf7A+ * 
63Pellet Wallf6B  
64Cravenf7A+  
65Gravitational Experimentf6C * 
66Right Bastardf7B  
67Left Bastardf7A  
68Eliminator Rightf6B  
69Eliminator Leftf6B  
 The Pitface 
71Is it Cheesecake or Meringue?
-
HVS 5a 1
72Power of the Mekon
-
E1 5b *1
73GrovelS 4a 1
74Regatta de Blanc
-
VS 4c **11
75Streaker
-
VS 4c 2
76Georgina
-
S 4a 2
77Jaws
-
HVS 5a *1
78The Mouth
-
VS 4c  
79Ummagumma
-
HVS 5b 1
80The Devil's Alternative
-
E5 6b  
81DeodandE1 5b *22
82Silently Screaming
-
E3 6a **6
83Transfiguration
-
VD 2
84ItE1 5c 3
85ThisVS 4c 2
86The Pit and the Pendulum
-
E6 6c ** 
87Dereck the Dead DuckE5 6c  
88Erythrocyte
-
VS 4c 2
89Sleepwalk
-
E4 6a ***3
90Born SlippyE3 6a  
91TornadoHVS 5a 2
92Astradyne
-
E5 6b ** 
93Houses of the Holy
-
VS 4c  
 The Mound 
95Greasy Spoon Yard Hardf7A+  
96Greasy Spoon Yardf6B  
97Once You Popf6C+  
98Centrefoldf7B  
99Went Like Furyf7B+  
100Just a Minutef7A  
101Snagglepussf6A  
 Chimney Buttress 
103ParadoxE2 5b ***145
104ParasiteE5 6b **6
105Leucocyte Left-handE2 5c **54
106Leucocyte Right-handVS 4c **122
107The HackerE4 6b *5
108Central RouteE1 5b ***321
109MaxE3 5c ***130
110Wombat ChimneyE1 5b **109
111The Soot MonkeyE6 6c **6
112Toxic Billberrys
-
E8 7a  
113SteeplejackE1 5c **3
114LoopyE4 6a ***24
115Clean SweepE5 6a **6
116FriendsHVS 4c 3
117The CornerVS 4c *25
118L'Arete
-
E4 6a 3
 The Prow 
120PeanutsHVS 5a *23
121Horrock's RouteVS 4b 60
122Horrock's Route DirectE1 5b  
123FingernailS 4a **417
124Orange PeelS 4a *124
125SarahHVS 5a 2
126Flingle BuntVS 4c *162
127Spider CrackHVS 5a *53
128Jubilee ClimbE2 5c 22
129Eastern TerraceM 81
130Lazy FridayE4 5c **36
131CameoE1 5a ***465
132Pathetique
-
E5 6b *2
133Wedgewood
-
HVS 5a 6
134Big Frenchief5 2
135ChristeenaVS 4c **283
136ChristinaVS 4c **20
137Christine's Socksf4+ 3
138Christine AreteE3 5c *25
139DawnHVS 5b ***481
140InnominateE3 6b 11
141EliminateVS 4c **301
142AnnE1 5b *384
143CheatE3 5b **236
144Modern GirlE4 5c *6
145Rambling RouteVD *334
146Bird ChimneyS 4a *301
147Flywalk Slabf7A *1
148FlywalkVS 4b **408
149Flywalk Direct
-
VS 5c 49
150FlytrapHVS 5a 66
151Veteran Cosmic RockerE4 6c 2
152Auto de FayeE3 5c  
153ScimitarD 117
154Max's DilemmaM 2
155HelixE1 1
 Opposite Wall 
157Geoff's Wall
-
E1 6a  
158Baby's Bottom
-
HS 4b  
159Brontosaurus
-
S 4a 3
160Stegosaurus
-
VD 3
161Nappy Rash
-
E1 5b  
162Opposition
-
VD 9
163Spec Crack
-
D 5
 Jimmy Nip Buttress 
165Powerage
-
E5 6b  
166Jimmy Nip
-
E3 6a *3
167Titanosaurus
-
E4 6a  
168The Boulder Problem in the SkyE4 6b 1
 White Slab 
170White Crack
-
VD 1
171GoonHVS 5a *2
172Crater Traitor
-
E6 6a 1
173Red Flowers are Red
-
E2 5b  
174Dandelion GrooveS 4a 4
175PrickpocketHVS 5a  
176Snakebite
-
E4 6a  
177Manglewurzle RibHVS 5a 8
178Isle of WhiteE4 6a ***21
179White Slabs BuntE3 6a ***45
180White LightninE5 6b **1
181Strawberry KissE7 6b *4
182Remembrance Corner
-
VS 4c 22
 Remembarete 
 G Buttress 
185Lone Aretef5+ 1
186Break Dynof6A 1
187Lone Arete Rightf5+ 1
 Grey Wall 
189SobeitE3 5c **17
190SupercrackE3 5c ***67
191Life in the Fast LaneE2 5c 1
192In Memoriam
-
E2 5c 1
193PatienceHVS 5a *8
194Impatience
-
E2 5c  
195DraculaE2 5b 3
196Niche Indirect
-
E1 5c  
197Western TerraceS 4a *10
198VampireE3 6a *1
199Scary GeorgeE4 6a ** 
200SpikeE4 6a **14
201Run Wild, Run FreeE6 6b ***1
202Ego TripE5 6b **3
 The Pit 
204K.P.E6 6b **7
205JosserE5 6a **1
206Welcome to the Pleasuredome
-
E5 6b * 
207Frightful FredVS 4c **16
208Jimmy Mac, Bin Man ExtraordinaireE2 6a  
209Bohemia
-
HVS 5b 5
210Daring DanE5 6b ** 
211AdrenalinE4 6a ***15
212Chocolate GirlE7 6c **6
213Grey And White GirdleHVS 5a *1
214Plenty of Zzzzs
-
E2 5b ** 
215The Finishf5 1
 Red Wall 
217KnuckledusterHVS 5a *23
218The Fist FinishHVS 5b 1
219GiganticE8 6c **3
220Thin AirE5 6a * 
221Hot AirE5 6b * 
222Nothing FantasticE3 5c *6
223BlackoutVS 4b **61
224Clapped OutE4 6b *3
225Master SpyE4 6a ***41
226Counter IntelligenceE5 6b **11
227Master Spy DirectE4 6a ***25
228Wipe OutE2 5b ***129
229Wipe Out startV0- 4
230Wipe Out variation 1V1 2
231Black MambaE4 6b **9
232Mamba startV0- 4
233Shaggy MambaE6 6b ** 
234Black Dog Blues
-
E5 6b  
235Shaggy DogE4 5c **3
236Kettle CrackE2 5c  
237Fall Out Chimney
-
HS 4a 2
238MyrmidonE5 6b * 
239Overtaker's ButtressE3 5c 1
240Tonight's the NightE4 5c  
241Twazack Left-hand
-
VS 4c 2
242Twazack Right-hand
-
VS 4c 1
243Rebellion
-
E1 5b  
244Roll Over
-
E2 5b 1
245Dinosaur
-
HVS 4c 2
246Slap Happy
-
E3 6a  
247Knock OutVS 4c *54
248Great SlabVS 4c *11
249Virgin's DilemmaHVS 5a **61
250999HS 4c ***546
251Left EdgeHVS 4a **17
 Snakey B 
253Sitting DucksV0- 2
254Baby Faef6B+  
255Snakey BV6 8
 The Graveyard 
257Coffin Crack
-
VS 4c 3
258Green Chimney
-
D 3
259Chance Encounters
-
E3 5c * 
260Susan
-
VS 4c 1
261La Morte
-
HVS 5b 1
262Undertaker's Crack
-
VS 4c 2
263Join the Army, Get Yourself Killed
-
E5 6a **7
264Soixante-neuf
-
E2 5c *7
265Graveyard Direct
-
S 4a 5
266Graveyard Slab
-
HS 4a 10
267Laid BackV3 5
268Laid Back variation 1V5 2
269Laid Back variation 2V2 5
270Graveyard SlapV1 7
271Graveyard Slap SitterV3 3
272Graveyard Ordinary
-
M 1
273Bolton Buttress
-
S 4a 2
274Mary
-
VD 1
275Saturation Point
-
HVS 5a  
276Coffin Digger's Spade
-
S  
277Catalespy
-
HS 4b  
278Neddy's Walk
-
VD 1
279Crash and Burn
-
HVS 5a  
280Ape
-
VD 3
281Squeeze Mef6B  
282The Very Cheekf6B 4
283Horrorbixf6A *9
284Overhanging Weetabix
-
E2 5c 2
285The Crack (aka Overhanging Weetabix)V0- 9
286The Overhang
-
VS 18
287The Movef7A *5
288The Move Sit Start
-
f7A+ 2
289The Move (no back wall)
-
f7B 2
290Horror AreteVS 5b *18
291Horror Aretef6A *12
292Beer Bellyf6B+ 5
293Beer Belly Sit Startf6C *3
294Avoidance
-
D 9
295Chocky
-
S 6
296Tombstoned
-
HVS 5a  
 Unknown location 
298Dave's Problem
-
V0 2
299Happy Campus
-
V1 2
300Munchkin Traverse
-
V1 2

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