Climbs 286
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 225m a.s.l
Faces NE

The relief of latching the top hold!! What a run out!! © sincybabes

Crag features

An impressive quarry, owned by the BMC, with routes up to 26m tall. The best ones range from HS to E6. There is also some excellent bouldering. Some parts, including the striking prow, are quick drying, whereas others stay damp and green for much of the year.

Approach notes

Park just downhill from the Wilton Arms and head up the hill behind the car park.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Rock up to Wilton 1 on Sat 14th/Sun 15th Sept..for the First Ever "WiltonFest". http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=550408 Much work has also been done to clean up some great routes on the lesser used sections of the quarry too, ready for leaders! Get down the allotment end to climb some newly cleaned quality routes that haven't had ascents in decades!
mcb - 02/Sep/13
Wilton One\'s one of the crags that\'s easily reachable from Bolton. I\'ve climbed there, and think it\'s one of the best crags in the area, well worth a look. There are plenty of stakes, suitable for self-protected routes and top-roping. The easiest routes are around the so called \"graveyard\" area, (yeah, very reassuring!) and at the opposite end of the wall, on the extreme left. The hardest routes are in the middle of the wall. And this is a big wall, a good three days solid climbing to be done here. Check out rockmonkey.co.uk for relevant information for young UK climbers.
Will - 31/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Woods 
2Sideshowf5  
3The Gruntf6A  
4Ell's AreteV4 **2
5Barbara's Manf7B * 
6Bean Bag Wetf5  
 The Allotment 
8The Deep
-
HVS 5a 2
9Barbara AnnHVS 5b  
10Rhonda
-
A2 3
11GrassyHVS 5a 3
12Rugosity Atrocity
-
E2 5b *8
13Willow Wall
-
HS 4a 6
14Asleep for Years
-
VS 4b 11
15Press Intrusions
-
E2 5b 7
16Falling Wall
-
E1 5b 1
17Willow Arete
-
E1 5b *13
18It'll Be Rude Not ToE6 6c **2
19Kurma
-
VS 4b 2
20JoanneE2 5b  
21Adidas
-
HVS 5a 1
22Puma
-
E3 5c **7
23The Foot of an Oncoming Mexican
-
E4 6b * 
24Zapling
-
E3 6a *1
25Merchant Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
26La Rue
-
HVS 5a  
27Perimeter WalkE7 6b *4
28Beyond the Perimeter
-
E5 6a **5
29Flimnap the Pirate
-
VS 4c *7
30Reeling in the Years
-
VS 4c 4
31Big Al
-
E3 5c 1
32Baby Arete
-
HVS 5a 1
33Rope 'n' Rubber
-
E2 5c  
34Grotty Muckden
-
VD 3
35Midget GemE3 6a  
36Tryptophane
-
HS 4a *4
37Pot-Pourri
-
VS 4c  
38Under the Mat
-
E4 6a  
39Lady Grinning Soul
-
HVS 5a  
40Valine
-
VS 4c 2
41Land
-
VS 4b 3
42Boy Racer
-
E5 6a 3
43Proline
-
E1 5b *5
44First Cut
-
HVS 5a *6
45Green WallVS 4b *7
46The Pretentious Gallery
-
E5 6b **6
47Dinah
-
E1 5b 7
48Eliminator
-
E3 5c *1
49Ruby
-
VS 4c 6
50Insertion
-
HVS 5b 2
51Jean
-
VS 4c *13
52Gravitational Experiment
-
E4 6b 1
53Crow's-nest
-
E1 5b 1
54Headbutt Wall
-
E4 6a 1
55Eccles' Escalator
-
VD 6
56Lime Street
-
S 4a 3
57Ordinary Route
-
E1 5b  
 Eliminator 
59Snakesf3  
60Simon Saysf7B  
61Head Butt Wallf6B * 
62Knee Buttf7A+ * 
63Pellet Wallf6B  
64Cravenf7A+  
65Gravitational Experimentf6C * 
66Right Bastardf7B  
67Left Bastardf7A  
68Eliminator Rightf6B  
69Eliminator Leftf6B 1
 The Pitface 
71Is it Cheesecake or Meringue?
-
HVS 5a 1
72Power of the Mekon
-
E1 5b *1
73GrovelS 4a 1
74Regatta de Blanc
-
VS 4c **11
75Streaker
-
VS 4c 2
76Georgina
-
S 4a 2
77Jaws
-
HVS 5a *1
78The Mouth
-
VS 4c  
79Ummagumma
-
HVS 5b 1
80The Devil's Alternative
-
E5 6b  
81DeodandE1 5b *22
82Silently Screaming
-
E3 6a **6
83Transfiguration
-
VD 2
84ItE1 5c 3
85ThisVS 4c 2
86The Pit and the Pendulum
-
E6 6c ** 
87Dereck the Dead DuckE5 6c  
88Erythrocyte
-
VS 4c 2
89Sleepwalk
-
E4 6a ***3
90Born SlippyE3 6a  
91TornadoHVS 5a 2
92Astradyne
-
E5 6b ** 
93Houses of the Holy
-
VS 4c  
 The Mound 
95Greasy Spoon Yard Hardf7A+  
96Greasy Spoon Yardf6B  
97Once You Popf6C+  
98Centrefoldf7B  
99Went Like Furyf7B+  
100Just a Minutef7A  
101Snagglepussf6A  
 Chimney Buttress 
103ParadoxE2 5b ***166
104ParasiteE5 6b **6
105Leucocyte Left-handE2 5c **56
106Leucocyte Right-handVS 4c **123
107The HackerE4 6b *5
108The Hacker (Boulder Problem)f6A+ *1
109Central RouteE1 5b ***336
110MaxE3 5c ***146
111Wombat ChimneyE1 5b **120
112The Soot MonkeyE6 6c **6
113Toxic Billberrys
-
E8 7a  
114SteeplejackE1 5c **3
115LoopyE4 6a ***32
116Clean SweepE5 6a **6
117FriendsHVS 4c 3
118The CornerVS 4c *25
119L'Arete
-
E4 6a 3
120L'Arete Traversef6C **1
 The Prow 
122PeanutsHVS 5a *23
123Horrock's RouteVS 4b 62
124Horrock's Route DirectE1 5b  
125FingernailS 4a **438
126Orange PeelS 4a *128
127SarahHVS 5a 2
128Flingle BuntVS 4c *173
129Spider CrackHVS 5a *57
130Jubilee ClimbE2 5c 22
131Eastern TerraceM 81
132Lazy FridayE4 5c **36
133CameoE1 5a ***535
134Pathetique
-
E5 6b *2
135Wedgewood
-
HVS 5a 6
136Big Frenchief5 2
137ChristeenaVS 4c **300
138ChristinaVS 4c **22
139Christine's Socksf4+ 3
140Christine AreteE3 5c *28
141DawnHVS 5b ***532
142InnominateE3 6b 11
143EliminateVS 4c **315
144AnnE1 5b *397
145CheatE3 5b **256
146Modern GirlE4 5c *6
147Rambling RouteVD *350
148Bird ChimneyS 4a *311
149Flywalk Slabf7A *1
150FlywalkVS 4b **424
151Flywalk Direct
-
VS 5c 50
152FlytrapHVS 5a 66
153Veteran Cosmic RockerE4 6c 2
154Auto de FayeE3 5c  
155ScimitarD 122
156Max's DilemmaM 2
157HelixE1 1
 Opposite Wall 
159Geoff's Wall
-
E1 6a  
160Baby's Bottom
-
HS 4b  
161Brontosaurus
-
S 4a 3
162Stegosaurus
-
VD 4
163Nappy Rash
-
E1 5b  
164Opposition
-
VD 9
165Spec Crack
-
D 5
 Jimmy Nip Buttress 
167Powerage
-
E5 6b  
168Jimmy Nip
-
E3 6a *3
169Titanosaurus
-
E4 6a  
170The Boulder Problem in the SkyE4 6b 1
 White Slab 
172White Crack
-
VD 1
173GoonHVS 5a *2
174Crater Traitor
-
E6 6a 1
175Red Flowers are Red
-
E2 5b  
176Dandelion GrooveS 4a 4
177PrickpocketHVS 5a  
178Snakebite
-
E4 6a  
179Manglewurzle RibHVS 5a 9
180Isle of WhiteE4 6a ***21
181White Slabs BuntE3 6a ***56
182White LightninE5 6b **1
183Strawberry KissE7 6b *4
184Remembrance Corner
-
VS 4c 25
 Remembarete 
186Remembaretef6A *1
 G Buttress 
188Lone Aretef5+ 2
189Break Dynof6A 1
190Lone Arete Rightf5+ 2
 Grey Wall 
192SobeitE3 5c **17
193SupercrackE3 5c ***67
194Life in the Fast LaneE2 5c 1
195In Memoriam
-
E2 5c 1
196PatienceHVS 5a *8
197Impatience
-
E2 5c  
198DraculaE2 5b 3
199Niche Indirect
-
E1 5c  
200Western TerraceS 4a *10
201VampireE3 6a *1
202Scary GeorgeE4 6a ** 
203SpikeE4 6a **14
204Run Wild, Run FreeE6 6b ***1
205Ego TripE5 6b **3
 The Pit 
207K.P.E6 6b **7
208JosserE5 6a **1
209Welcome to the Pleasuredome
-
E5 6b * 
210Frightful FredVS 4c **16
211Jimmy Mac, Bin Man ExtraordinaireE2 6a  
212Bohemia
-
HVS 5b 5
213Daring DanE5 6b ** 
214AdrenalinE4 6a ***15
215Chocolate GirlE7 6c **6
216Grey And White GirdleHVS 5a *1
217Plenty of Zzzzs
-
E2 5b ** 
218The Finishf5 1
 Red Wall 
220KnuckledusterHVS 5a *23
221The Fist FinishHVS 5b 2
222GiganticE8 6c **3
223Thin AirE5 6a * 
224Hot AirE5 6b * 
225Nothing FantasticE3 5c *6
226BlackoutVS 4b **62
227Clapped OutE4 6b *3
228Master SpyE4 6a ***41
229Counter IntelligenceE5 6b **11
230Master Spy DirectE4 6a ***32
231Wipe OutE2 5b ***134
232Wipe Out startV0- 4
233Wipe Out variation 1V1 2
234Black MambaE4 6b **9
235Mamba startV0- 4
236Shaggy MambaE6 6b ** 
237Black Dog Blues
-
E5 6b  
238Shaggy DogE4 5c **3
239Kettle CrackE2 5c  
240Fall Out Chimney
-
HS 4a 2
241MyrmidonE5 6b * 
242Overtaker's ButtressE3 5c 1
243Tonight's the NightE4 5c  
244Twazack Left-hand
-
VS 4c 2
245Twazack Right-hand
-
VS 4c 1
246Rebellion
-
E1 5b  
247Roll Over
-
E2 5b 1
248Dinosaur
-
HVS 4c 2
249Slap Happy
-
E3 6a  
250Knock OutVS 4c *54
251Great SlabVS 4c *11
252Virgin's DilemmaHVS 5a **62
253999HS 4c ***588
254Left EdgeHVS 4a **17
 Snakey B 
256Sitting DucksV0- 2
257Baby Faef6B+  
258Snakey BV6 13
 The Graveyard 
260Coffin Crack
-
VS 4c 3
261Green Chimney
-
D 3
262Chance Encounters
-
E3 5c * 
263Susan
-
VS 4c 1
264La Morte
-
HVS 5b 1
265Undertaker's Crack
-
VS 4c 2
266The Ultimate SacrificeE6 6a ** 
267Join the Army, Get Yourself Killed
-
E5 6a **7
268Soixante-neuf
-
E2 5c *7
269Graveyard Direct
-
S 4a 5
270Graveyard Slab
-
HS 4a 10
271Laid BackV3 5
272Laid Back variation 1V5 2
273Laid Back variation 2V2 5
274Graveyard SlapV1 7
275Graveyard Slap SitterV3 3
276Graveyard Ordinary
-
M 1
277Bolton Buttress
-
S 4a 2
278Mary
-
VD 1
279Saturation Point
-
HVS 5a  
280Coffin Digger's Spade
-
S  
281Catalespy
-
HS 4b  
282Neddy's Walk
-
VD 1
283Crash and Burn
-
HVS 5a  
284Ape
-
VD 3
285Squeeze Mef6B  
286The Very Cheekf6B 4
287Horrorbixf6A *9
288Overhanging Weetabix
-
E2 5c 2
289The Crack (aka Overhanging Weetabix)V0- 9
290The Overhang
-
VS 18
291The Movef7A *5
292The Move Sit Start
-
f7A+ 2
293The Move (no back wall)
-
f7B 2
294Horror AreteVS 5b *18
295Horror Aretef6A *12
296Beer Bellyf6B+ 5
297Beer Belly Sit Startf6C *4
298Avoidance
-
D 9
299Chocky
-
S 7
300Tombstoned
-
HVS 5a  
 Unknown location 
302Dave's Problem
-
V0 2
303Happy Campus
-
V1 2
304Munchkin Traverse
-
V1 2

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