UKC

Climbs 404
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 225m a.s.l
Faces NE

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The relief of latching the top hold!! What a run out!! © sincybabes

Crag features

An impressive quarry, owned by the BMC, with routes up to 26m tall. The best ones range from HS to E6. There is also some excellent bouldering. Some parts, including the striking prow, are quick drying, whereas others stay damp and green for much of the year.

Approach notes

Park just downhill from the Wilton Arms and head up the hill behind the car park.

Restricted Access

USER ATTENTION

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

Rock up to Wilton 1 on Sat 14th/Sun 15th Sept..for the First Ever "WiltonFest". http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=550408 Much work has also been done to clean up some great routes on the lesser used sections of the quarry too, ready for leaders! Get down the allotment end to climb some newly cleaned quality routes that haven't had ascents in decades!
mcb - 02/Sep/13
Wilton One\'s one of the crags that\'s easily reachable from Bolton. I\'ve climbed there, and think it\'s one of the best crags in the area, well worth a look. There are plenty of stakes, suitable for self-protected routes and top-roping. The easiest routes are around the so called \"graveyard\" area, (yeah, very reassuring!) and at the opposite end of the wall, on the extreme left. The hardest routes are in the middle of the wall. And this is a big wall, a good three days solid climbing to be done here. Check out rockmonkey.co.uk for relevant information for young UK climbers.
Will - 31/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

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