Altitude 374m a.s.l
Climbing above Monaco © Jamie Lilley
A Spectacular limestone crag that rises directly above Monaco, but is actually in France. Contains some excellant 5s and 6s on the wall to the left (also known as Loubière), whilst the main face (also known as Tête de Chien) contains some very impressive challenges. Can be very popular. Typically south facing, overlooking the sea. Dries quickly, excellent climbing conditions in Autumn to Spring, but very hot in the summer.
Grading variable but typically hard for the listed grade. Many climbs have little name signs at the bottom, but grading information is variable. All routes well are bolted, with a mix of chains and a pair of bolts at the top of routes. Some loose rock has been reinforced.
Various topos can be found on the following sites
Can be approached either from above or below. The approach from above through the tunnel is now reopened and well used. The path below has been reinforced and well signposted.
For lower sectors follow the A8 and take the Monaco turn, or take the Moyenne Corniche from Nice through Eze. Turn left at the first traffic lights after the Motorway joins the Corniche. Park on the second or third hairpins with limited parking at each. Follow paths towards the obvious crags. The first you reach is La Loubière.
For the higher sectors follow the Moyenne Corniche from Nice and follow signs for La Turbie (turn left just after Eze), or take the A8 turn for Monaco and again follow signs for La Turbie. Turn right in the village and fork left after 300m for 'Tête de Chien' and follow this road to the end. Park at the side of the road near the fort. The path through the tunnel leads down from the carpark at the end.
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