Climbs 400
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 554m a.s.l
Faces SW

Mike Owen at the "rest" on Super Tango at Deverse Satanique, Les Gorges du Loup. © Roman Bayon

Crag features

A huge, impressive gorge with masses of rock, cutting into the hills to the north west of Vence. There is a lot of climbing here, though much of it is very hard, and due to seepage and shade, several of the cliffs come into their best in the summer months. Listed here are routes on two large cliffs at the lower end of the gorge.

It is worth a ride through the gorge to investigate the amount of rock and some impressive waterfalls - it all makes Cheedale look a bit weak. 

Often cool and blowy, the gorge is a popular venue in the summer when the heat is on (shade after 2pm on the west side). The cliffs described here can offer climbable conditions in the winter, though their recessed nature means they are slow to dry, and an extra layer may be needed to keep warm! 

Humidity from the river can be an issue on Mesa Verde, as can seepage after heavy rain on both cliffs.

Jurassic and Cayenne face east, so they get the morning sun until midday. There is usually a good breeze at Jurassic, but it is usually hotter and much less breezy at Cayenne. They both offer shelter, so it is possible to climb during the rain. When walking through the tunnels, check whether the pipe/concrete is dry or damp. This will indicate either good or sweaty conditions at the cliffs.

For Déverse, the crag is in the shade until about 2pm, and always has a good wind. The cliff is very steep and stays dry for at least a week during heavy rain.

Approach notes

Most of the crags are up stream from the village of Pont du Loup (however La Jungle and Karaoke are down stream from Pont du Loup). The crags are accessible from the D6, between La Colle sur Loup and Bramafan (apart from Jurassic Park, Cayenne and Les Pistones which are accessed from the D3 between Gourdon and Bramafan).

Access for the crags is described from the furthest up stream. The orientation is given for each cliff.

L'Iroquoi (east): is immediately on the left before the 2nd tunnel driving up the gorge. Park either after the tunnel on the left, or down the road in a layby. (1 min).

Déverse Satanique (west): park on the left immediately after the 1st tunnel driving up the gorge. The official path goes up the hill approx 50 metres down the old road around the outside of the tunnel. (5 mins).

La Piscine (west): park in one of the small laybys near a sign for the Auberge de Courmes (approx 500m before the 1st tunnel). Follow the path up hill, which starts on the right of the dry canyon next to the sign. (15 mins).

Le Phasme (west): park in a layby on the right (5 cars) just after an obvious entry/view point on the left. Follow the stone wall back down the road until a path on the right leads down to the crag (where the wall finishes). (2 mins). It is possible to get to Mesa Verde from here by following the path towards the green bridge across the river (hand line in place for the final bit before gaining the bridge). (6 mins).

Mesa Verde (east): either follow the approach described above for Le Phasme or park in the village of Pont du Loup. Follow the path from the sweet shop car park up stream (20 mins).

L'Hermitage (east): Same approach as for Mesa Verde but continue walking another 5 mins and scramble up the hillside to the obvious large compact crag. (25 mins).

Les Pistones/Jurassic Park/Cayenne (east): approx 5 km after the village of Gourdon and 100m after the 2nd set of hairpin bends there is a track leading down hill on the right. Park on the road and follow the track down until the water pipe. Turn right and follow the pipe down stream through 6 tunnels (head torch needed). The path for Les Pistones goes uphill just after an inscription (Picardie 29/05/98)in the concrete and just after the 1st inpection cover about 100m after the 6th tunnel. Continue for Jurassic. Cayenne is after 2 more small tunnels at an obvious bend in the pipe. (30 mins).

Parcours du Sante (south east): From the small roundabout in the village of Gourdon, drive in the direction of Jurassic Park along a long straight section of road. Pass the obvious field and pull in at the pinic area on the right (approx 200m from the roundabout and before the 1st bend). Park here. Walk towards a sign on the edge of the cliff, then trend left down and then back right to the base of the cliff. (5 mins).

Karaoke (south): park on the right approx 3 km after passing Les Rives du Loup campsite near a wire mesh fence (2 cars). The path goes uphill from a couple of white plastic bollards, then traverses along a more obvious path past a rocky outcrop, then follows a less obvious steep and narrower path heading towards a prominent rocky col. Take care to descend to the crag from the rocky col (easily missed). (20 mins).

La Jungle (north): park on a very sharp bend approx 1.5 km from the junction with the D7. Cross the road and step over the road barrier. Follow a path down to the river. Wade across the river and ascend the steep wooded slope past several hand lines to arrive at the left end of the crag. (15 mins).

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Guidebooks

France : Côte d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Déverse Satanique 
2Les Petits Suisses
-
7a+ 2
3Les Gravures des Sloppy Joe
-
6c 17
4Sika et Gomorrhe
-
6c 13
5Priviet7a 3
67pm JP Show8c ** 
7Inga9a  
8Ingaf8B ** 
9PuntX
-
9a *** 
10Hot Chilli Beans Volcano8b+ ***2
11Hot Chilli-X8b+ **1
12SatanX
-
8b **6
13Déverse Satanique8a ***19
14Dies Irae8a+ ***7
15Satan Petit Coeur
-
7b **15
16Eva
-
8a  
17Super Mekanik
-
8a *3
18Mecanik Destructif7c ***21
19Cascade
-
8a **9
20Zoulman
-
8b ** 
21Magma
-
8b+ * 
22New Power Generation
-
8b **4
23New Power Sacrifice
-
8b+ ***1
24Ultimate Sacrifice
-
8c+ **1
25Oudai
-
8b+ ** 
26Oudai/les Maux de la Fin8c *** 
27Soul Sacrifice8b ***2
28Last Soul Sacrifice8c ***1
29Qoussai8a+ ***3
30Qoussai/Les Maux de la Fin
-
8c ***3
31Quenelle Trophy
-
8c ** 
32Quenelle Trophy/Les Maux de la Fin
-
8c+ *** 
33Asai
-
8c ** 
34Total Eclatch
-
8c ** 
35Kinematrix
-
9a *** 
36Honk
-
8b+ ** 
37Karoshi
-
8b+ *** 
38Orgasmabras
-
8b+  
39S.I.K.A. 18a **2
40S.I.K.A. 2
-
8b ** 
41Trip Tik to Nik9a ***1
42Super Tango8a+ ***8
43Tango To Nik8c *** 
44Abyss9a *** 
45Destin Anime L1
-
7b+ *5
46Le Destin Anime L1 + L2
-
8a **4
47L'Arrière Boutique L1
-
7c+ *1
48L'Arrière Boutique L1 + L2
-
8a **1
49La Vitrine L1
-
7c *1
50La Vitrine L1 + L2
-
8a **1
51Caligula L17c+ ***4
52Caligula L1 + L28a ***2
53La Ligne Noir L17a+ ***2
54La Ligne Noir L1 + L28a ***1
55La Ligne Noir L1 + L2 + L38a+ ***1
56Vie d'Ordure L1
-
7b+ *2
57Vie d'Ordure L1 + L2
-
7c * 
58Once I Had a Friend L17b ***4
59Once I Had a Friend L1 + l2
-
7c+ **2
60Once I Had a Friend L1 + L2 + L38a ***6
61Pas Vu, Pas Pris L17c ***4
62Pas Vu, Pas Pris L1 + L27c+ ***2
63Pas Vu, Pas Pris L1 + L2 + L38a ***6
64Gamma Citron
-
8b  
65Fear Factor
-
8a+ 4
66Turbinator7c+ ***3
67Vigor8a ***3
68Kombinator
-
8a+ * 
 Déverse Premier Etage 
70Kiss Pupuce
-
8a *** 
71Projet Kev
-
Project  
72Jambon Beurre
-
Project  
73Pan Bagnat
-
Project  
74Club Poulet
-
7b  
75Maxi Cosy
-
Project  
76El Bonito
-
8b  
77Sans Nom
-
Project  
78Retame
-
7c+ ***1
79Rock'n'Rolla L1
-
8b  
80Rock'n'Rolla L1 + L2
-
8c  
81Fatal Bazooka
-
8b  
82Kid Kinda
-
7b+ ***1
83Bratislaboy L1
-
7c ***1
84Kouroukoukou
-
8b+  
85Atum
-
8c  
86Borat
-
Project  
87Godzilla
-
8a **1
88Issue de Secours
-
7a+ *1
 L'Arche de Déverse 
90Le Dragon Mange-bamboo
-
7b **1
91La Pieuvre Guili-guili
-
6c+ **1
92Sots du Loup
-
6a+ *1
93Coquin Colin L1
-
8a **1
94Coquin Colin L1 + L2
-
8b ** 
 La Piscine 
96Orange
-
7c+ ***1
97Tout ce qu'il faut ou il faut
-
7c  
98Clementine
-
7b+ ***1
99Alzheimer
-
7b+ *1
100Le Truc
-
7c ***1
101Un Passe Charge
-
8a ***1
102Soleil Rasta L1
-
7b ***1
103Soleil Rasta L1 + L28a ** 
104Bouge tes Fesse L1
-
6c *1
105Bouge tes Fesse L1 + L2
-
8a **1
106La Tour de Pise
-
6c * 
107Gran Turismo L1
-
6c *1
108Gran Turismo L1 + L2
-
7c **1
109Si c'est Dur
-
7a+ *1
110Playback
-
7c **1
111Piercing L1
-
6c *1
112Piercing L1 + L2
-
7b+ **1
113Star a Tous les Étages L1
-
7a+ **1
114Star a Tous les Étages L1 + L27c+ ** 
115L'Homme Fort du Moment
-
8a ***1
 Grotte de L'Iroquoi 
117Pendant que nounours hiberne
-
7a+ 2
118New 7a
-
7a *1
119Départ à Droite
-
7a+ *1
120?
-
7b+ 2
121Conscience Futuriste
-
7a+ 4
122L'Exception Lionel
-
6c+ **3
123Sollicitation Paradoxiale
-
7a+  
124Les Cordes Liées
-
7b **1
125La Cadastrophe
-
7c *1
126Opération Sac à Vin
-
Project  
127Chico Cherche Chiquette
-
8b+  
128Joel
-
Project  
129Les Cotacons
-
7c+ ***1
130Pas de Grelot Pour Noel
-
7c+ **1
131"7c+" Number 1
-
8a  
132"7c+" Number 2
-
7c+  
133"7c+" Number 3
-
7c+  
134Le Tabouret du Fakir
-
7b+ ***2
135Tromperie Tactile
-
7c ***1
136Orgasme d'Ours
-
7c+ * 
137Enculerie Atomique
-
8a * 
138En Attendant la Grand Fauceuse
-
7b+ **2
139Fouf Enough
-
6c **8
140La Voie des ces Dames
-
7c ***5
141Genou y es-tu
-
7b ***2
142Name Unknown
-
7c  
 Le Phasme 
144Gospel à Harlem
-
7a+ 1
145Pret à Consommer
-
7a+ 2
146Reunion Tupperware
-
7a **6
147T'es vraiment une chèvre L1
-
6c **7
148T'es vraiment une chèvre L1 + L2
-
7a ***5
149Hereda Incursio
-
6c *6
150Maximus focus
-
7b ***4
151Nouvelle voie
-
6c 7
152Ultimate Doume L1
-
6b+ **10
153Ultimate Doume L1 + L2
-
7a+ 4
154Chasseurs de chamois
-
7a 2
155Connexion
-
6c ***2
156Leonidas et le Lycan
-
7a+ **2
157Yogi master
-
7a **4
158Le stadium
-
6c 3
159Les agapes de la varappe
-
6b+ **9
160Flagrant délit
-
6c ***8
161Mulot génocide
-
6c+ 6
162La parole est un trésor
-
7b 1
163Parabellum
-
7c+  
164Dernier trimestre
-
7a 3
 Karaoke 
166Les Rapports de Monsieur Muller
-
6b+ **1
167Bomber Woman
-
7a ***1
168Aurel est Hardi
-
7c ***1
169AOC La Baleine par Bibi-phoque en Palmes
-
8a ***1
170La Salle c'est Cruxial
-
7a **1
171Combien Ça Coûte
-
7a+ ** 
172Bourricot Bouffe
-
7a ** 
173Merci Flo
-
8a+  
174La Gueule du Monstre
-
7c 1
175De Lor Entre les Mains
-
8a  
 La Jungle 
177Arachnide L1
-
6a+ *4
178Arachnide L1 + L2
-
7a 1
179P'tite insupportable nocturne L1
-
7b 2
180P'tite insupportable nocturne L1 + L2
-
7b+  
181Comme quoi, le caca tient L1
-
6a+ **3
182Comme quoi, le caca tient L1 + L2
-
7a+ **3
183BB Geek
-
5c **3
184BB Geek L1 + L2
-
6c **1
185Mon ami Pierrot
-
7c+  
186Samourai
-
8b  
187Parceque je le vaux bien
-
7b+  
188Sceptique Eric
-
6b+ 2
189Une liane pour Mowgli
-
7a ***4
190Le livre de la jungle
-
6c+ ***5
191Poilues les guêpes!
-
7a **1
192Sans Nom
-
7a **1
193Quand Ballo n'est pas la, Mowgli équipe
-
7a 2
194De la terre et des hommes
-
6b 6
195Petit insupportable diurne
-
6b+ 1
196Ligue de Protection des Ouvreurs
-
6c 3
 Mesa Verde 
198Jungle Boogie7a+ **1
199Quelque chose plutôt que rien7b **1
200Axel's New 8a+
-
8a+ ***1
201Carnage Forest8a ***2
202Tonio Saucisse8b  
203Direct Start to Tonio Saucisse
-
Project  
204Beer Fest7b+ **3
205Pizza Partie7c ***17
206Situation Explosive8a *2
207Les Niçois récidives7c ***2
208Les Niçois font du ski L17c ***7
209Les Niçois font du ski L1 + L27c+ ***6
210Coup de tonnerre7a+ *4
211Pas de Bras, pas de Chocolat7a ***25
212Pas de Bras pour les Niçois Font du Ski7c **2
213Same Player Shoot Again7c **8
214Willy Wonka L16c+ **29
215Willy Wonka L1 + L27b+ ***5
216Perry Maconne
-
7b **3
217De la terre au ciel7b ***23
218La Résistance c'est Maintenant7c **6
219Contrat Premier Envol L16c+ **40
220Contrat Premier Envol L1 + L27b ***6
221Contrat Premier Envol L1 + L2 + L3
-
7b+ **4
222Ma vie en l'air L17a+ ***19
223Ma vie en l'air L1 + L27c ***2
224Plat de Résistance7b+ **6
225Castle Rock L17a+ ***21
226Castle Rock L1 + L27b+ ***6
227New 8a+8a+  
228Arrowhead8a ***16
229Petit Poucet7c+ ***16
230Broken Arrow8a ***2
231L'Ogre8b ***1
232Walou la Voie8a+ ***1
233Petit Poucet Extension8a *5
234Little Broken Arrow7c **1
235Projet PHP
-
7b+ **4
236Sitting Boule7a+ **12
237Hopi Birthday7a ***26
238Barefoot Words7b ***11
239Ça va merder7b+ **6
240PH36c **6
241Name Unknown
-
6c  
 Cayenne 
243Action Réaction6c *2
244Unknown 7a7a **1
245La Légende de Bibi-Phoque7b+ * 
246Zitounette7b ***3
247Et on finit en Sardaigne7c  
248A Strap Titi7c **1
249Poulet Boulets7b ***6
250Sika Casse Couilles7c+ **1
251Welcome to the Jungle8a ***1
252Cédric n'aime pas les slashs8a+ ***1
253Cayenne7c+ ***36
254Cayenne Fufu8a ***1
255Hong Kong Fufu8b  
256Shakti7c+ ***8
257Shakti Plus7c+ ***6
258Mesquineries8a+ **1
259Incinerator 318b * 
260Septembre Noir7b ***2
261Dieu ne joue pas aux des7a+ ***6
262Holy Chicken Salad7b *1
263Palmasoutra7a+ **3
264Kokopeli7b ***2
265Marc Attack7b+ ***2
266Inconnu L'Orient Express7b+ ** 
 Jurassic Park 
268Jurassic Back7b+ **3
269Le farceur d'érosion6b+ *4
270Perfotactyle7a+ ***71
271La proue7c+ *** 
272La proue Total8a ***1
273Paleolactique8a *1
274Prisetorique8a **1
275Thermotactique7a *2
276La Queue du Diable8a+ ***1
277Homo sa pince7b ***9
278Diplodocus 16c ***38
279Diplodocus 27b+ **6
280Diplodocus 38a ***16
281La Queue du Diplodocus8a+ ***51
282Tamaka8b * 
283Grand Tamaka8b+ * 
284Le Dernier Empereur8b+ ** 
285L'homme du néant des dalles7b+ ***69
286Cro-Minus8a+ *1
287Crokus8b ** 
288Crokusaka8b+ ** 
289Cro-Magnon8b+ ** 
290Stonehenge, la dance des géants8b  
291Unknown 8b8b  
292Unknown 7c7c  
293Psycho-Pat8a+ ***1
294La Grotte à Nounours8b+  
295Zubble8c+ * 
296Enzubble9a ** 
297Nounours à la Discoteca8b ** 
298Calme ta joie7c+ 1
299La Discoteca8b+  
300Golgoth 138b+ ** 
301Total Minus8c ** 
302La Totalite8c ** 
303La Côté Obscure8c+ ** 
304Predator8a  
305Amazonia7b ** 
306Amazonia Direct6c+ *1
307Australopithèque7b+ * 
308Winnibyd7a+ *1
309Lucy7a+ 1
 Secteur Ben/Les Pistones 
3111
-
7c  
312Extension to 1
-
Project  
313Starshine
-
7b+ **1
314Starshine Extension7c 1
3153
-
7a+ 1
3164
-
6c+ 1
317Lost in America7a ***1
318Lost in America Extension7a+ ***1
319Just Full Power7c+ * 
320Gorillaz7c **1
321Un Ruby de Plus8b *** 
32287a **1
3239
-
6b+ 1
32410
-
6a+  
325Sultans of Swing7c ***1
32611
-
6a+ 1
327Extension to 11
-
7b+ **1
32812
-
6a+  
 L'Hermitage 
330Super Louise6a ***3
331Les chasseurs de miel6a *** 
332Camille danseuse étoile5c ***3
333Les jardins de lumière6b ***1
334Mai6a+ *** 
335Douche surprise5c ***1
336Le survol de l'aigle6a *** 
337Automne mélancolique6b+ ***2
338Tolérance démagogique6b *** 
339Tolérance de jour6b *** 
340Pour ceux qui revent le jour6b+ *** 
 Parcours du Sante 
342Colle un timbre
-
6a 4
343Le Cedricade
-
7b 1
344Le 4+ d'Indien Creek
-
6b 3
345Cacahiete
-
6b 1
346Chapelet les paires
-
6c+ 5
347Jean-Michel Guiness
-
7a+ 1
348Vertical rédemption
-
7b+ 1
349Arque-moi si tu peux
-
7c+  
350Pornographie à Seynes
-
7c  
351Bibi Multipitch
-
7b+ 1
352Le syndicat des méthodes
-
7b+ 2
353Méthode anti-celibat
-
7a 2
354Jul be back
-
7c+  
355Pour un pacte écologique 1er relais
-
8a  
356Pour un pacte écologique 2e relais
-
8a+  
357Cacoine 1er relais7b ***3
358Cacoine 2e relais7b+ ***3
359King Route
-
8a ***6
360Abdonembourg
-
8a+  
361Robiocop
-
8a+  
362La Katjastrophik
-
8b  
363La poulehitechnicoise8a *** 
364Le poulietechnicien
-
8b  
365Le Betonieur
-
8b  
366Maçon 068a  
 Les Balcons 
368Le Chaos Primitif
-
5c 1
369Kabyle du Durdjura
-
5c 2
370Plein de Tendresse
-
4c 1
371Un Rude Hiver
-
6a+  
372L'Inconnu
-
7a+ 1
373Danse avec les Touaregs
-
6b+ 2
374Le Déluge et la Peur
-
6a+  
375Le Cueilleur de Cimes
-
6b+ 1
376Le fantôme de l'eau
-
6c+ 2
377Pitrouille
-
6b+  
378Monsaigneur
-
7a  
379Déconne Essence
-
6c  
380Grosse Fatigue
-
7b  
381Le Spectre du Surmouton
-
7a+  
382Brazill
-
5b  
383Le Petit Faon
-
5c *1
384Le Lapin Coquin
-
6b *1
385Morpho Illogique
-
7a  
386Full Metal Casquette
-
7b  
387Colo Rit
-
6c **1
388Un Pouvoir Étrange
-
6a+ *2
389New
-
6b+ *1
390Maître Hibou
-
5c 1
391La Roue du Moulin
-
5c **1
392Les Premières Feuilles
-
5c *2
 Le Belvédère 
394Africa
-
4b 2
395Le faiseur de pluie5c 1
396Au vent qui se lève
-
5a 2
397Route no 45b 1
398Un espace inhabité
-
5b 2
 Le Phare 
400Project5b  
401Purge du Frigo
-
6c+ **1
402Ça Fourmille
-
6a+ **1
403Ere de Passage L1
-
6a **1
404Ere de Passage L1 + L2
-
6a+ ***1
405Le Phare West
-
6b+ ***1
406Le Coin des Cons et Soeurs L1
-
6c 1
407Le Coin des Cons et Soeurs L1 + L2
-
1 ** 
408Symphonie en Bi Majeur
-
7b  
409La valse des Tortues L1
-
6c+ 1
410La valse des Tortues L1 + L2
-
7b+  
411Geisha
-
7c+  
412Les doigts de l'Homme L1
-
7a+ *1
413Les doigts de l'Homme L1 + L2
-
7c+  
414Intifada des coccinnelles L1
-
Project 1
415Intifada des coccinnelles L1 + L2
-
Project  
416Petite Dalle à Gauche
-
6b  
417Petite Dalle à Droite
-
6a+ **1

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