Gorges du Loup

Climbs 370 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 241m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
This is a great place to climb on steep tufas. It is possible to climb all year round though, after prolonged wet weather, some of the crags stay wet until late spring (especially Deverse). Spring, summer and autumn are the best times. There is shade on the Deverse side until around 2pm and shade on the Jurassic Park side from around 1pm.

Unfortunately, there are several manufactured routes at Deverse and Jurassic of the 2 finger pocket variety. Thankfully, there are plenty of great natural routes.

Approach notes
Most of the crags are up stream from the village of Pont du Loup (however La Jungle and Karaoke are down stream from Pont du Loup). The crags are accessible from the D6, between La Colle sur Loup and Bramafan (apart from Jurassic Park, Cayenne and Les Pistones which are accessed from the D3 between Gourdon and Bramafan).

Access for the crags is described from the furthest up stream. The orientation is given for each cliff.

L'Iroquoi (east): is immediately on the left before the 2nd tunnel driving up the gorge. Park either after the tunnel on the left, or down the road in a layby. (1 min).

Deverse (west): park on the left immediately after the 1st tunnel driving up the gorge. The official path goes up the hill approx 50 metres down the old road around the outside of the tunnel. (5 mins).

La Piscine (west): park in one of the small laybys near a sign for the Auberge de Courmes (approx 500m before the 1st tunnel). Follow the path up hill, which starts on the right of the dry canyon next to the sign. (15 mins).

Le Phasme (west): park in a layby on the right (5 cars) just after an obvious entry/view point on the left. Follow the stone wall back down the road until a path on the right leads down to the crag (where the wall finishes). (2 mins). It is possible to get to Mesa Verde from here by following the path towards the green bridge across the river (hand line in place for the final bit before gaining the bridge). (6 mins).

Mesa Verde (east): either follow the approach described above for Le Phasme or park in the village of Pont du Loup. Follow the path from the sweet shop car park up stream (20 mins).

L'Hermitage (east): Same approach as for Mesa Verde but continue walking another 5 mins and scramble up the hillside to the obvious large compact crag. (25 mins).

Les Pistones/Jurassic Park/Cayenne (east): approx 5 km after the village of Gourdon and 100m after the 2nd set of hairpin bends there is a track leading down hill on the right. Park on the road and follow the track down until the water pipe. Turn right and follow the pipe down stream through 6 tunnels (head torch needed). The path for Les Pistones goes uphill just after an inscription (Picardie 29/05/98)in the concrete and just after the 1st inpection cover about 100m after the 6th tunnel. Continue for Jurassic. Cayenne is after 2 more small tunnels at an obvious bend in the pipe. (30 mins).

Parcours du Sante (south east): From the small roundabout in the village of Gourdon, drive in the direction of Jurassic Park along a long straight section of road. Pass the obvious field and pull in at the pinic area on the right (approx 200m from the roundabout and before the 1st bend). Park here. Walk towards a sign on the edge of the cliff, then trend left down and then back right to the base of the cliff. (5 mins).

Karaoke (south): park on the right approx 3 km after passing Les Rives du Loup campsite near a wire mesh fence (2 cars). The path goes uphill from a couple of white plastic bollards, then traverses along a more obvious path past a rocky outcrop, then follows a less obvious steep and narrower path heading towards a prominent rocky col. Take care to descend to the crag from the rocky col (easily missed). (20 mins).

La Jungle (north): park on a very sharp bend approx 1.5 km from the junction with the D7. Cross the road and step over the road barrier. Follow a path down to the river. Wade across the river and ascend the steep wooded slope past several hand lines to arrive at the left end of the crag. (15 mins).

Guidebooks
France : Côte d'Azur (2010),
Out of print: L'Escalade dans les Alpes-Maritimes (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 DEVERSE SATANIQUE  
2Les Petits Suisses7a+ 2
3Les Gravures Des Sloppy Joe6c 5
4Sika et Gomorrhe6b+ 3
57pm JP Show8c ** 
6Inga9a  
7Ingaf8B ** 
8PuntX9a *** 
9Hot Chilli Beans Volcano8b+ ***1
10Hot Chilli-X8b+ **1
11SatanX8b **2
12Deverse Satanique8a ***9
13Dies Irae8a+ ***4
14Satan Petit Coeur7b **7
15Eva8a  
16Super Mekanik8a *2
17Mecanik Destructif7c ***12
18Cascade8a 7
19Zoulman8b ** 
20Magma8b+ * 
21New Power Generation8b **3
22New Power Sacrifice8b+ ***1
23Ultimate Sacrifice8c+ **1
24Oudai8b+ ** 
25Oudai/les Maux de la Fin8c *** 
26Soul Sacrifice8b ***2
27Last Soul Sacrifice8c **1
28Qoussai8a+ **1
29Qoussai/Les Maux de la Fin8c ***1
30Quenelle Trophy8c ** 
31Quenelle Trophy/Les Maux de la Fin8c+ *** 
32Asai8c ** 
33Total Eclatch8c ** 
34Kinematrix9a *** 
35Honk8b+ ** 
36Karoshi8b+ *** 
37Orgasmabras8b+  
38S.I.K.A. 18a **2
39S.I.K.A. 28b ** 
40Trip Tik To Nik8c+ *** 
41Super Tango8a+ ***1
42Tango To Nik8c ** 
43Abyss9a *** 
44Destin Anime L17b+ *2
45Le Destin Anime L1 + L27c+ **2
46L'Ariere Boutique L17c+ *1
47L'Arriere Boutique L1 + L28a **1
48La Vitrine L17c *1
49La Vitrine L1 + L28a **1
50Caligula L18a ***1
51Caligula L1 + L28a **1
52La Ligne Noir L18a+ ***2
53La Ligne Noir L1 + L28a **1
54La Ligne Noir L1 + L2 + L38a+ ***1
55Vie d'Ordure L17b+ *2
56Vie d'Ordure L1 + L27c * 
57Once I Had Friends L17b+ ***4
58Once I Had a Friend L1 + l28a ***1
59Once I Had Friends L1 + L2 + L38a **4
60Pas Vu, Pas Pris L17c **3
61Pas Vu Pas Pris L1 + L27c+ **1
62Pas Vu, Pas Pris L1 + L2 + L38a ***6
63Gamma Citron8b  
64Fear Factor8a+  
65Turbinator7c+ ***3
66Vigor8a * 
67Kombinator8a+ * 
 DEVERSE PREMIER ETAGE  
69Kiss Pupuce8a  
70Projet KevProject  
71Jambon BeurreProject  
72Pan BagnatProject  
73Club Poulet7b  
74Maxi CosyProject  
75El Bonito8b  
76Sans NomProject  
77Retame7c+ ***1
78Rock'n'Rolla L18b  
79Rock'n'Rolla L1 + L28c  
80Fatal Bazooka8b  
81Kid Kinda7b+ ***1
82Bratislaboy L17c ***1
83Kouroukoukou8b+  
84Atum8c  
85BoratProject  
86Godzilla8a **1
87Issue de Secours7a+ *1
 L'ARCHE DE DEVERSE  
89Le Dragon Mange-bamboo7b **1
90La Pieuvre Guili-guili6c+ **1
91Sots Du Loup6a+ *1
92Coquin Colin L18a **1
93Coquin Colin L1 + L28b ** 
 LA PISCINE, GORGES DU LOUP  
95Orange7c+ ***1
96Tout ce qu'il faut ou il faut7c  
97Clementine7b+ ***1
98Alzheimer7b+ *1
99Le Truc7c ***1
100Un Passe Charge8a ***1
101Soleil Rasta L17b ***1
102Soleil Rasta L1 + L28a ** 
103Bouge Tes Fesse L16c *1
104Bouge Tes Fesse L1 + L28a **1
105La Tour de Pise6c * 
106Gran Turismo L16c *1
107Gran Turismo L1 + L27c **1
108Si C'Est Dur7a+ *1
109Playback7c **1
110Piercing L16c *1
111Piercing L1 + L27b+ **1
112Star a Tous les Etages L17a+ **1
113Star a Tous les Etages L1 + L27c+ ** 
114L'Homme Fort du Moment8a ***1
 GROTTE DE L'IROQUOI, GORGES DU LOUP  
116Pendant que nounours hiberne7a+ 1
117New 7a7a *1
118Depart A Droite7a+ * 
119?7b+  
120Conscience Futuriste7a+ 2
121L'Exception Lionel6c+ **1
122Sollicitation Paradoxiale7a+  
123Les Cordes Liees7b **1
124La Cadastrophe7c *1
125Operation Sac a VinProject  
126Chico Cherche Chiquette8b+  
127JoelProject  
128Les Cotacons7c+ ***1
129Pas de Grelot Pour Noel7c+ **1
130"7c+" Number 18a  
131"7c+" Number 27c+  
132"7c+" Number 37c+  
133Le Tabouret du Fakir7b+ ***1
134Tromperie Tactile7c ***1
135Orgasme d'Ours7c+ * 
136Enculerie Atomique8a * 
137En Attendant la Grand Fauceuse7b+ **2
138Fouf Enough6c **3
139La Voie des ces Dames7c ***2
140Genou y es-tu7b ***1
141Name Unknown7c  
 LE PHASME  
143Gospel a Harlem7a+ 1
144Pret a Consommer7a+ 1
145Reunion Tupperware7a **5
146T'es vraiment une chevre L16c **6
147T'es vraiment une Chevre L1 + L27a ***4
148Hereda Incursio6c *5
149Maximus focus7b ***3
150Nouvelle voie6c 6
151Ultimate Doume L16b+ **9
152Ultimate Doume L1 + L27a+ 3
153Chasseurs de chamois7a 2
154Connexion6c ***2
155Leonidas et le Lycan7a+ **2
156Yogi master7a **4
157Le stadium6c 3
158Les agapes de la varappe6b+ **8
159Flagrant delit6c ***7
160Mulot genocide6c+ 6
161La parole est un tresor7b  
162Parabellum7c+  
163Dernier trimestre7a 2
 KARAOKE  
165Les Rapports De Monsieur Muller6b+ **1
166Bomber Woman7a ***1
167Aurel Est Hardi7c ***1
168AOC La Baleine Par Bibi-phoque En Palmes8a ***1
169La Salle C'est Cruxial7a **1
170Combien Ca Coute7a+ ** 
171Bourricot Bouffe7a ** 
172Merci Flo8a+  
173La Guele Du Monstre7c 1
174De Lor Entre Les Mains8a  
 LA JUNGLE  
176Arachnide L16a+ *4
177Arachnide L1 + L27a 1
178P'tite insupportable nocturne L17b 2
179P'tite insupportable nocturne L1 + L27b+  
180Comme quoi, le caca tient L16a+ **3
181Comme quoi, le caca tient L1 + L27a+ **3
182BB Geek5c **3
183BB Geek L1 + L26c **1
184Mon ami Pierrot7c+  
185Samourai8b  
186Parceque je le vaux bien7b+  
187Sceptique Eric6b+ 2
188Une liane pour Mowgli7a ***4
189Le livre de la jungle6c+ ***5
190Poilues les guepes!7a **1
191Sans Nom7a ** 
192Quand Ballo n'est pas la, Mowgli equipe7a 1
193De la terre et des hommes6b 5
194Ptit insupportable diurne6b+ 1
195Ligue de Protection des Ouvreurs6c 2
 MESA VERDE  
197Jungle Boogie7a+ ** 
198Quelque chose plutot que rien7b+ ** 
199Axel's New 8a+8a+ ***1
200Carnage Forest8a ***2
201Tonio Saucisse8b  
202Direct Start to Tonio SaucisseProject  
203Beer Fest7b+ **3
204Pizza party7c ***14
205Situation Explosive8a *2
206Les Nicois recidives7b+ ***2
207Les Nicois font du ski L17c ***6
208Les Nicois font du ski L1 + L27c ***4
209Coup de tonnerre7a+ *1
210Pas de Bras, pas de Chocolat7a ***19
211Pas de Bras Pour Les Nicois Font Du Ski7c **2
212Same Player Shoot Again7c **5
213Willy Wonka L16c+ **24
214Willy Wonka L1 + L27c ***3
215Nouvelle voie d'Alex7b ** 
216De la terre au ciel7b ***20
217La Resistance c'est Maintenant7c **4
218Contrat Premier Envol L16c **26
219Contrat Premier Envol L1 + L27b **5
220Contrat Premier Envol L1 + L2 + L37b+ **4
221Ma vie en l'air L17a+ *16
222Ma vie en l'air L1 + L27a+ **1
223Plat de Resistance7b+ **5
224New 8a+8a+  
225Castle Rock L17a+ ***15
226Castle Rock L1 + L27a+ ***6
227Arrowhead8a ***13
228Petit Poucet7c+ ***10
229L'Ogre8b ** 
230Walou la Voie8a+ ***1
231Petit Poucet Extension8b ***3
232Connection Sitting Boule/Projet PHP/Arrowhead7c **1
233Projet PHP7b+ **3
234Sitting Boule7a+ **10
235Hopi Birthday7a ***24
236Barefoot Words7b ***9
237Ca va merder7c **4
238PH36c **6
239Name Unknown 26c  
 CAYENNE  
241Action Reaction6c *2
242Name Unknown7a **1
243La Legende de Bibi-Phoque7b+ * 
244Zitounette7b ***3
245Et On Finit En Sardaigne7c  
246A Strap Titi7c **1
247Poulet Boulets7b ***5
248Sika Casse Couilles7c+ **1
249Welcome to the Jungle8a ***1
250Cedric n'aime pas les Slash8a+ ***1
251Cayenne7c ***35
252Cayenne Fufu8a ***1
253Hong Kong Fufu8b  
254Shakti7c+ ***8
255Shakti Plus7c+ ***6
256Mesquinieres8a+ **1
257Incinerator 318b * 
258Septembre Noir7b ***2
259Dieu Ne Joue Pas Aux Des7a+ ***6
260Holy Chicken Salad7b *1
261Palmasoutra7a+ **2
262Kokopeli7b ***2
263Marc Attack7b+ ***2
264Inconnu L'Orient Express7b+ ** 
 JURASSIC PARK  
266Jurassic Back7b+ **3
267Le Farceur d'erosion6b+ *4
268Perfotactyle7a+ ***63
269La Proue Total8a **1
270Paleolactique8a *1
271Prisetorique8a **1
272Thermotactique7a *1
273La Queue du Diable8a+ ***1
274Homo Sa Pince7b ***8
275Diplodocus 16c ***28
276Diplodocus 27b+ **5
277Diplodocus 38a ***16
278La Queue du Diplodocus8a+ ***37
279Tamaka8b  
280Grand Tamaka8b+  
281Le Dernier Empereur8b+  
282L'homme du neant des dalles7b+ ***60
283Cro-Minus8a+ 1
284Crokus8b  
285Crokusaka8b+  
286Cro-Magnon8b+  
287Stonehenge, la dance des geants8b  
288Name Unknown8b  
289Name Unknown 27c  
290Psycho-Pat8a+ ***1
291La Grotte a Nounours8b+  
292Zubble8c+  
293Enzubble9a  
294Nounours a la Discoteca8b  
295Calme Ta Joie7c+ 1
296La Discoteca8b+  
297Golgoth 138b+  
298Total Minus8c  
299La Totalite8c  
300La Cote Obscure8c+  
301Predator8a  
302Amazonia7b * 
303Amazonia Direct6c+ 1
304Australopicotheque7b+  
305Winnibyd7a+ *1
306Lucy7a+ 1
 SECTEUR BEN/LES PISTONES  
30817c  
309Extension to 1Project  
310Starshine7b+ **1
311Extension to Starshine7c 1
31237a+ 1
31346c+ 1
314Lost in America7a ***1
315Extension to Lost in America7a+ ***1
316Just Full Power7c+ * 
317Gorillaz7c **1
318Un Ruby De Plus8b *** 
31987a **1
32096b+ 1
321106a+  
322Sultans of Swing7c ***1
323116a+ 1
324Extension to 117b+ **1
325126a+  
 L'HERMITAGE  
327Super Louise6a *** 
328Les Chasseurs de Miel6a *** 
329Camille danseuse Étoile5c ***1
330Les Jardins de Lumière6b ***1
331Mai6a+ *** 
332Douche Surprise5c ***1
333Le Survol de l'aigle6a *** 
334Automne Melancolique6b+ *** 
335Tolérance Demagogique6b *** 
336Pour Ceux qui Revent le Jour6b+ *** 
 PARCOURS DU SANTE  
338Colle un timbre6a 4
339Le Cedricade7b 1
340Le 4+ d'Indien Creek6b 4
341Chapelet les paires6c 5
342Jean-Michel Guiness7a 1
343Vertical redemption7b+ 1
344Arque-moi si tu peux7c+  
345Pornographie a Seynes7c  
346Bibi Multipitch7b+ 1
347Le syndicat des methodes7b+ 2
348Methode anti-celibat7a 1
349Jul be back7c+  
350Pour un pacte ecologique 1er relais8a  
351Pour un pacte ecologique 2e relais8a+  
352Cacoine 1er relais7b ***3
353Cacoine 2e relais7b+ ***3
354King Route8a ***4
355Abdonembourg8a+  
356Robiocop8a+  
357La Katjastrophik8b  
358La poulehitechnicoise8a *** 
359Le poulietechnicien8b  
 LES BALCONS  
361Le Chaos Primitif5c  
362Kabyle du Durdjura5c 1
363Plein de Tendresse4c 1
364Un Rude Hiver6a+  
365L'Inconnu7a+ 1
366Danse Avec les Touaregs6b+ 2
367Le Déluge et la Peur6a+  
368Le Cueilleur de Cimes6b+  
369Le Fantôme de l'Eau6c+ 1
370Pitrouille6b+  
371Monsaigneur7a  
372Deconne Essence6c  
373Grosse Fatigue7b  
374Le Spectre du Surmouton7a+  
375Brazill5b  
376Le Petit Faon5c *1
377Le Lapin Coquin6b *1
378Morpho Illogique7a  
379Full Metal Casquette7b  
380Colo Rit6c **1
381Un Pouvoir Etrange6a+ *2
382New6b+ *1
383Maitre Hibou5c 1
384La Roue du Moulin5c **1
385Les Premières Feuilles5c *2
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