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Gorges du LoupAlpes Maritime, FRANCE
Climbs 337 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 241m a.s.l – Faces SW
Unfortunately, there are several manufactured routes at Deverse and Jurassic of the 2 finger pocket variety. Thankfully, there are plenty of great natural routes.
Access for the crags is described from the furthest up stream. The orientation is given for each cliff.
L'Iroquoi (east): is immediately on the left before the 2nd tunnel driving up the gorge. Park either after the tunnel on the left, or down the road in a layby. (1 min).
Deverse (west): park on the left immediately after the 1st tunnel driving up the gorge. The official path goes up the hill approx 50 metres down the old road around the outside of the tunnel. (5 mins).
La Piscine (west): park in one of the small laybys near a sign for the Auberge de Courmes (approx 500m before the 1st tunnel). Follow the path up hill, which starts on the right of the dry canyon next to the sign. (15 mins).
Le Phasme (west): park in a layby on the right (5 cars) just after an obvious entry/view point on the left. Follow the stone wall back down the road until a path on the right leads down to the crag (where the wall finishes). (2 mins). It is possible to get to Mesa Verde from here by following the path towards the green bridge across the river (hand line in place for the final bit before gaining the bridge). (6 mins).
Mesa Verde (east): either follow the approach described above for Le Phasme or park in the village of Pont du Loup. Follow the path from the sweet shop car park up stream (20 mins).
L'Hermitage (east): Same approach as for Mesa Verde but continue walking another 5 mins and scramble up the hillside to the obvious large compact crag. (25 mins).
Les Pistones/Jurassic Park/Cayenne (east): approx 5 km after the village of Gourdon and 100m after the 2nd set of hairpin bends there is a track leading down hill on the right. Park on the road and follow the track down until the water pipe. Turn right and follow the pipe down stream through 6 tunnels (head torch needed). The path for Les Pistones goes uphill just after an inscription (Picardie 29/05/98)in the concrete and just after the 1st inpection cover about 100m after the 6th tunnel. Continue for Jurassic. Cayenne is after 2 more small tunnels at an obvious bend in the pipe. (30 mins).
Parcours du Sante (south east): From the small roundabout in the village of Gourdon, drive in the direction of Jurassic Park along a long straight section of road. Pass the obvious field and pull in at the pinic area on the right (approx 200m from the roundabout and before the 1st bend). Park here. Walk towards a sign on the edge of the cliff, then trend left down and then back right to the base of the cliff. (5 mins).
Karaoke (south): park on the right approx 3 km after passing Les Rives du Loup campsite near a wire mesh fence (2 cars). The path goes uphill from a couple of white plastic bollards, then traverses along a more obvious path past a rocky outcrop, then follows a less obvious steep and narrower path heading towards a prominent rocky col. Take care to descend to the crag from the rocky col (easily missed). (20 mins).
La Jungle (north): park on a very sharp bend approx 1.5 km from the junction with the D7. Cross the road and step over the road barrier. Follow a path down to the river. Wade across the river and ascend the steep wooded slope past several hand lines to arrive at the left end of the crag. (15 mins).
Climbs at this crag
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