Climbs 411
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 554m a.s.l
Faces SW

Mike Owen at the "rest" on Super Tango at Deverse Satanique, Les Gorges du Loup. © Roman Bayon

Crag features

A huge, impressive gorge with masses of rock, cutting into the hills to the north west of Vence. There is a lot of climbing here, though much of it is very hard, and due to seepage and shade, several of the cliffs come into their best in the summer months. Listed here are routes on two large cliffs at the lower end of the gorge.

It is worth a ride through the gorge to investigate the amount of rock and some impressive waterfalls - it all makes Cheedale look a bit weak. 

Often cool and blowy, the gorge is a popular venue in the summer when the heat is on (shade after 2pm on the west side). The cliffs described here can offer climbable conditions in the winter, though their recessed nature means they are slow to dry, and an extra layer may be needed to keep warm! 

Humidity from the river can be an issue on Mesa Verde, as can seepage after heavy rain on both cliffs.

Jurassic and Cayenne face east, so they get the morning sun until midday. There is usually a good breeze at Jurassic, but it is usually hotter and much less breezy at Cayenne. They both offer shelter, so it is possible to climb during the rain. When walking through the tunnels, check whether the pipe/concrete is dry or damp. This will indicate either good or sweaty conditions at the cliffs.

For Déverse, the crag is in the shade until about 2pm, and always has a good wind. The cliff is very steep and stays dry for at least a week during heavy rain.

Approach notes

Most of the crags are up stream from the village of Pont du Loup (however La Jungle and Karaoke are down stream from Pont du Loup). The crags are accessible from the D6, between La Colle sur Loup and Bramafan (apart from Jurassic Park, Cayenne and Les Pistones which are accessed from the D3 between Gourdon and Bramafan).

Access for the crags is described from the furthest up stream. The orientation is given for each cliff.

L'Iroquoi (east): is immediately on the left before the 2nd tunnel driving up the gorge. Park either after the tunnel on the left, or down the road in a layby. (1 min).

Déverse Satanique (west): park on the left immediately after the 1st tunnel driving up the gorge. The official path goes up the hill approx 50 metres down the old road around the outside of the tunnel. (5 mins).

La Piscine (west): park in one of the small laybys near a sign for the Auberge de Courmes (approx 500m before the 1st tunnel). Follow the path up hill, which starts on the right of the dry canyon next to the sign. (15 mins).

Le Phasme (west): park in a layby on the right (5 cars) just after an obvious entry/view point on the left. Follow the stone wall back down the road until a path on the right leads down to the crag (where the wall finishes). (2 mins). It is possible to get to Mesa Verde from here by following the path towards the green bridge across the river (hand line in place for the final bit before gaining the bridge). (6 mins).

Mesa Verde (east): either follow the approach described above for Le Phasme or park in the village of Pont du Loup. Follow the path from the sweet shop car park up stream (20 mins).

L'Hermitage (east): Same approach as for Mesa Verde but continue walking another 5 mins and scramble up the hillside to the obvious large compact crag. (25 mins).

Les Pistones/Jurassic Park/Cayenne (east): approx 5 km after the village of Gourdon and 100m after the 2nd set of hairpin bends there is a track leading down hill on the right. Park on the road and follow the track down until the water pipe. Turn right and follow the pipe down stream through 6 tunnels (head torch needed). The path for Les Pistones goes uphill just after an inscription (Picardie 29/05/98)in the concrete and just after the 1st inpection cover about 100m after the 6th tunnel. Continue for Jurassic. Cayenne is after 2 more small tunnels at an obvious bend in the pipe. (30 mins).

Parcours du Sante (south east): From the small roundabout in the village of Gourdon, drive in the direction of Jurassic Park along a long straight section of road. Pass the obvious field and pull in at the pinic area on the right (approx 200m from the roundabout and before the 1st bend). Park here. Walk towards a sign on the edge of the cliff, then trend left down and then back right to the base of the cliff. (5 mins).

Karaoke (south): park on the right approx 3 km after passing Les Rives du Loup campsite near a wire mesh fence (2 cars). The path goes uphill from a couple of white plastic bollards, then traverses along a more obvious path past a rocky outcrop, then follows a less obvious steep and narrower path heading towards a prominent rocky col. Take care to descend to the crag from the rocky col (easily missed). (20 mins).

La Jungle (north): park on a very sharp bend approx 1.5 km from the junction with the D7. Cross the road and step over the road barrier. Follow a path down to the river. Wade across the river and ascend the steep wooded slope past several hand lines to arrive at the left end of the crag. (15 mins).

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Guidebooks

France : Côte d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Déverse Satanique 
2Les Petits Suisses
-
7a+ 2
3Les Gravures des Sloppy Joe
-
6c 17
4Sika et Gomorrhe
-
6c 13
5Priviet7a 3
67pm JP Show8c ** 
7Inga9a  
8Ingaf8B ** 
9PuntX
-
9a *** 
10Hot Chilli Beans Volcano8b+ ***2
11Hot Chilli-X8b+ **1
12SatanX
-
8b **15
13Déverse Satanique8a ***24
14Dies Irae8a+ ***13
15Satan Petit Coeur
-
7b **22
16Eva
-
8a  
17Super Mekanik
-
8a *3
18Mecanik Destructif7c ***39
19Cascade
-
8a **10
20Zoulman
-
8b ** 
21Magma
-
8b+ * 
22New Power Generation
-
8b **4
23New Power Sacrifice
-
8b+ ***1
24Ultimate Sacrifice
-
8c+ **1
25Oudai
-
8b+ ** 
26Oudai/les Maux de la Fin8c *** 
27Soul Sacrifice8b ***2
28Last Soul Sacrifice8c ***1
29Qoussai8a+ ***9
30Qoussai/Les Maux de la Fin
-
8c ***3
31Quenelle Trophy
-
8c ** 
32Quenelle Trophy/Les Maux de la Fin
-
8c+ *** 
33Asai
-
8c ** 
34Total Eclatch
-
8c ** 
35Kinematrix
-
9a *** 
36Honk
-
8b+ ** 
37Karoshi
-
8b+ *** 
38Orgasmabras
-
8b+  
39S.I.K.A. 18a **38
40S.I.K.A. 2
-
8b ** 
41Trip Tik to Nik9a ***1
42Super Tango8a+ ***10
43Tango To Nik8c *** 
44Abyss9a *** 
45Destin Anime L1
-
7b+ *6
46Le Destin Anime L1 + L2
-
8a **5
47L'Arrière Boutique L1
-
7c+ *1
48L'Arrière Boutique L1 + L2
-
8a **1
49La Vitrine L1
-
7c *1
50La Vitrine L1 + L2
-
8a **1
51Caligula L17c+ ***4
52Caligula L1 + L28a ***3
53La Ligne Noir L17a+ ***2
54La Ligne Noir L1 + L28a ***1
55La Ligne Noir L1 + L2 + L38a+ ***1
56Vie d'Ordure L1
-
7b+ *2
57Vie d'Ordure L1 + L2
-
7c * 
58Once I Had a Friend L17b ***4
59Once I Had a Friend L1 + l2
-
7c+ **2
60Once I Had a Friend L1 + L2 + L38a ***6
61Pas Vu, Pas Pris L17c ***4
62Pas Vu, Pas Pris L1 + L27c+ ***2
63Pas Vu, Pas Pris L1 + L2 + L38a ***6
64Gamma Citron
-
8b  
65Fear Factor
-
8a+ 4
66Turbinator7c+ ***3
67Vigor8a ***3
68Kombinator
-
8a+ * 
 Deverse 2eme Etage 
70Kiss Pupuce
-
8a *** 
71Kiss and fly8a+ ***1
72Projet Kev
-
Project  
 Déverse Premier Etage 
74Jambon Beurre
-
Project  
75Pan Bagnat
-
Project  
76Club Poulet
-
7b  
77Maxi Cosy
-
Project  
78El Bonito
-
8b  
79Sans Nom
-
Project  
80Retame
-
7c+ ***1
81Rock'n'Rolla L1
-
8b  
82Rock'n'Rolla L1 + L2
-
8c  
83Fatal Bazooka
-
8b  
84Kid Kinda
-
7b+ ***1
85Bratislaboy L1
-
7c ***1
86Kouroukoukou
-
8b+  
87Atum
-
8c  
88Borat
-
Project  
89Godzilla
-
8a **2
90Issue de Secours
-
7a+ *1
 L'Arche de Déverse 
92Le Dragon Mange-bamboo
-
7b **1
93La Pieuvre Guili-guili
-
6c+ **1
94Sots du Loup
-
6a+ *1
95Coquin Colin L1
-
8a **1
96Coquin Colin L1 + L2
-
8b ** 
 La Piscine 
98Orange
-
7c+ ***1
99Tout ce qu'il faut ou il faut
-
7c  
100Clementine
-
7b+ ***1
101Alzheimer
-
7b+ *1
102Le Truc
-
7c ***1
103Un Passe Charge
-
8a ***1
104Soleil Rasta L1
-
7b ***2
105Soleil Rasta L1 + L28a ** 
106Bouge tes Fesse L1
-
6c *1
107Bouge tes Fesse L1 + L2
-
8a **1
108La Tour de Pise
-
6c *1
109Gran Turismo L1
-
6c *2
110Gran Turismo L1 + L2
-
7c **1
111Si c'est Dur
-
7a+ *2
112Playback
-
7c **1
113Piercing L1
-
6c *1
114Piercing L1 + L2
-
7b+ **1
115Star a Tous les Étages L1
-
7a+ **1
116Star a Tous les Étages L1 + L27c+ ** 
117L'Homme Fort du Moment
-
8a ***1
 Grotte de L'Iroquoi 
119Pendant que nounours hiberne
-
7a+ 2
120New 7a
-
7a *1
121Départ à Droite
-
7a+ *1
122?
-
7b+ 2
123Conscience Futuriste
-
7a+ 4
124L'Exception Lionel
-
6c+ **3
125Sollicitation Paradoxiale
-
7a+  
126Les Cordes Liées
-
7b **1
127La Cadastrophe
-
7c *1
128Opération Sac à Vin
-
Project  
129Chico Cherche Chiquette
-
8b+  
130Joel
-
Project  
131Les Cotacons
-
7c+ ***1
132Pas de Grelot Pour Noel
-
7c+ **1
133"7c+" Number 1
-
8a  
134"7c+" Number 2
-
7c+  
135"7c+" Number 3
-
7c+  
136Le Tabouret du Fakir
-
7b+ ***2
137Tromperie Tactile
-
7c ***1
138Orgasme d'Ours
-
7c+ * 
139Enculerie Atomique
-
8a * 
140En Attendant la Grand Fauceuse
-
7b+ **2
141Fouf Enough
-
6c **8
142La Voie des ces Dames
-
7c ***5
143Genou y es-tu
-
7b ***2
144Name Unknown
-
7c  
 Le Phasme 
146La voie la plus gauche
-
6c  
147Gospel à Harlem
-
7a+ 3
148Pret à Consommer
-
7a+ *4
149Reunion Tupperware
-
7a **6
150T'es vraiment une chèvre L1
-
6c **9
151T'es vraiment une chèvre L1 + L2
-
7a ***6
152Hereda Incursio
-
6c *6
153Maximus focus
-
7b ***4
154Nouvelle voie
-
6c+ **8
155Ultimate Doume L1
-
6b+ ***14
156Ultimate Doume L1 + L2
-
7a+ *4
157Chasseurs de chamois
-
7a **3
158Connexion
-
6c ***4
159Leonidas et le Lycan
-
7a+ **4
160Yogi master
-
7a **4
161Le stadium
-
6c *4
162Les agapes de la varappe
-
6b+ **10
163Flagrant délit
-
6c ***13
164Mulot génocide
-
6c+ 7
165La parole est un trésor
-
7b 2
166Parabellum
-
7c+  
167Dernier trimestre
-
7a 4
 Karaoke 
169Les Rapports de Monsieur Muller
-
6b+ **1
170Bomber Woman
-
7a ***1
171Aurel est Hardi
-
7c ***1
172AOC La Baleine par Bibi-phoque en Palmes
-
8a ***1
173La Salle c'est Cruxial
-
7a **1
174Combien Ça Coûte
-
7a+ ** 
175Bourricot Bouffe
-
7a ** 
176Merci Flo
-
8a+  
177La Gueule du Monstre
-
7c 1
178De Lor Entre les Mains
-
8a  
 La Jungle 
180Arachnide L1
-
6a+ *4
181Arachnide L1 + L2
-
7a 1
182P'tite insupportable nocturne L1
-
7b 3
183P'tite insupportable nocturne L1 + L2
-
7b+  
184Comme quoi, le caca tient L1
-
6a+ **3
185Comme quoi, le caca tient L1 + L2
-
7a+ **3
186BB Geek
-
5c **3
187BB Geek L1 + L2
-
6c **2
188Mon ami Pierrot
-
7c+  
189Samourai
-
8b  
190Parceque je le vaux bien
-
7b+  
191Sceptique Eric
-
6b+ 2
192Une liane pour Mowgli
-
7a ***4
193Le livre de la jungle
-
6c+ ***5
194Poilues les guêpes!
-
7a **1
195Sans Nom
-
7a **1
196Quand Ballo n'est pas la, Mowgli équipe
-
7a 2
197De la terre et des hommes
-
6b 6
198Petit insupportable diurne
-
6b+ 1
199Ligue de Protection des Ouvreurs
-
6c 3
 Mesa Verde 
201Jungle Boogie7a+ **1
202Quelque chose plutôt que rien7b **2
203Axel's New 8a+
-
8a+ ***1
204Carnage Forest8a ***3
205Tonio Saucisse8b  
206Direct Start to Tonio Saucisse
-
Project  
207Beer Fest7b+ **3
208Pizza Partie7c ***17
209Situation Explosive8a *3
210Les Niçois récidives7c ***3
211Les Niçois font du ski L17c ***8
212Les Niçois font du ski L1 + L27c+ ***6
213Coup de tonnerre7a+ *4
214Pas de Bras, pas de Chocolat7a ***26
215Pas de Bras pour les Niçois Font du Ski7c **2
216Same Player Shoot Again7c **9
217Willy Wonka L16c+ **29
218Willy Wonka L1 + L27b+ ***5
219Perry Maconne
-
7b **4
220De la terre au ciel7b ***24
221La Résistance c'est Maintenant7c **9
222Contrat Premier Envol L16c+ **43
223Contrat Premier Envol L1 + L27b ***8
224Contrat Premier Envol L1 + L2 + L3
-
7b+ **4
225Ma vie en l'air L17a+ ***19
226Ma vie en l'air L1 + L27c ***2
227Plat de Résistance7b+ **9
228Castle Rock L17a+ ***22
229Castle Rock L1 + L27b+ ***6
230New 8a+8a+ 1
231Arrowhead8a ***16
232Petit Poucet7c+ ***16
233Broken Arrow8a ***2
234L'Ogre8b ***1
235Walou la Voie8a+ ***1
236Petit Poucet Extension8a *5
237Little Broken Arrow7c **1
238Projet PHP
-
7b+ **4
239Sitting Boule7a+ **12
240Hopi Birthday7a ***26
241Barefoot Words7b ***12
242Ça va merder7b+ **6
243PH36c **6
244Name Unknown
-
6c  
 Cayenne 
246Action Réaction6c *2
247Unknown 7a7a **2
248La Légende de Bibi-Phoque7b+ * 
249Zitounette7b ***3
250Et on finit en Sardaigne7c  
251A Strap Titi7c **1
252Poulet Boulets7b ***6
253Sika Casse Couilles7c+ **1
254Welcome to the Jungle8a ***2
255Cédric n'aime pas les slashs8a+ ***1
256Cayenne7c+ ***36
257Cayenne Fufu8a ***1
258Hong Kong Fufu8b  
259Shakti7c+ ***8
260Shakti Plus7c+ ***6
261Mesquineries8a+ **1
262Incinerator 318b * 
263Septembre Noir7b ***2
264Dieu ne joue pas aux des7a+ ***8
265Holy Chicken Salad7b *1
266Palmasoutra7a+ **5
267Kokopeli7b ***4
268Marc Attack7b+ ***2
269Inconnu L'Orient Express7b+ ** 
 Jurassic Park 
271Jurassic Back7b+ **3
272Le farceur d'érosion6b+ *4
273Perfotactyle7a+ ***73
274La proue7c+ *** 
275La proue Total8a ***1
276Paleolactique8a *1
277Prisetorique8a **1
278Thermotactique7a *2
279La Queue du Diable8a+ ***1
280Homo sa pince7b ***9
281Diplodocus 16c ***40
282Diplodocus 27b+ **6
283Diplodocus 38a ***16
284La Queue du Diplodocus8a+ ***53
285Tamaka8b * 
286Grand Tamaka8b+ * 
287Le Dernier Empereur8b+ ** 
288L'homme du néant des dalles7b+ ***71
289Cro-Minus8a+ *1
290Crokus8b ** 
291Crokusaka8b+ ** 
292Cro-Magnon8b+ ** 
293Stonehenge, la dance des géants8b  
294Unknown 8b8b  
295Unknown 7c7c  
296Psycho-Pat8a+ ***1
297La Grotte à Nounours8b+  
298Zubble8c+ * 
299Enzubble9a ** 
300Nounours à la Discoteca8b ** 
301Calme ta joie7c+ 1
302La Discoteca8b+  
303Golgoth 138b+ ** 
304Total Minus8c ** 
305La Totalite8c ** 
306La Côté Obscure8c+ ** 
307Predator8a  
308Amazonia7b ** 
309Amazonia Direct6c+ *1
310Australopithèque7b+ * 
311Winnibyd7a+ *1
312Lucy7a+ 1
 Secteur Ben/Les Pistones 
3141
-
7c  
315Extension to 1
-
Project  
316Starshine
-
7b+ **1
317Starshine Extension7c 1
3183
-
7a+ 1
3194
-
6c+ 1
320Lost in America7a ***1
321Lost in America Extension7a+ ***1
322Just Full Power7c+ * 
323Gorillaz7c **1
324Un Ruby de Plus8b *** 
32587a **1
3269
-
6b+ 1
32710
-
6a+  
328Sultans of Swing7c ***1
32911
-
6a+ 1
330Extension to 11
-
7b+ **1
33112
-
6a+  
 L'Hermitage 
333Super Louise6a ***3
334Les chasseurs de miel6a *** 
335Camille danseuse étoile5c ***3
336Les jardins de lumière6b ***1
337Mai6a+ *** 
338Douche surprise5c ***1
339Le survol de l'aigle6a *** 
340Automne mélancolique6b+ ***2
341Tolérance démagogique6b *** 
342Tolérance de jour6b *** 
343Pour ceux qui revent le jour6b+ *** 
 Parcours du Sante 
345Colle un timbre
-
6a 4
346Le Cedricade
-
7b 1
347Le 4+ d'Indien Creek
-
6b 3
348Cacahiete
-
6b 1
349Chapelet les paires
-
6c+ 5
350Jean-Michel Guiness
-
7a+ 1
351Vertical rédemption
-
7b+ 1
352Arque-moi si tu peux
-
7c+  
353Pornographie à Seynes
-
7c  
354Bibi Multipitch
-
7b+ 1
355Le syndicat des méthodes
-
7b+ 2
356Méthode anti-celibat
-
7a 2
357Jul be back
-
7c+  
358Pour un pacte écologique 1er relais
-
8a  
359Pour un pacte écologique 2e relais
-
8a+  
360Cacoine 1er relais7b ***3
361Cacoine 2e relais7b+ ***3
362King Route
-
8a ***6
363Abdonembourg
-
8a+  
364Robiocop
-
8a+  
365La Katjastrophik
-
8b  
366La poulehitechnicoise8a *** 
367Le poulietechnicien
-
8b  
368Le Betonieur
-
8b  
369Maçon 068a  
 Les Balcons 
371Le Chaos Primitif
-
5c 1
372Kabyle du Durdjura
-
5c 2
373Plein de Tendresse
-
4c 1
374Un Rude Hiver
-
6a+  
375L'Inconnu
-
7a+ 1
376Danse avec les Touaregs
-
6b+ 2
377Le Déluge et la Peur
-
6a+  
378Le Cueilleur de Cimes
-
6b+ 1
379Le fantôme de l'eau
-
6c+ 2
380Pitrouille
-
6b+  
381Monsaigneur
-
7a  
382Déconne Essence
-
6c  
383Grosse Fatigue
-
7b  
384Le Spectre du Surmouton
-
7a+  
385Brazill
-
5b  
386Le Petit Faon
-
5c *1
387Le Lapin Coquin
-
6b *1
388Morpho Illogique
-
7a  
389Full Metal Casquette
-
7b  
390Colo Rit
-
6c **1
391Un Pouvoir Étrange
-
6a+ *2
392New
-
6b+ *1
393Maître Hibou
-
5c 1
394La Roue du Moulin
-
5c **1
395Les Premières Feuilles
-
5c *2
 Le Belvédère 
397Africa
-
4b 2
398Le faiseur de pluie5c 1
399Au vent qui se lève
-
5a 2
400Route no 45b 1
401Un espace inhabité
-
5b 2
 Le Phare 
403Project5b  
404Purge du Frigo
-
6c+ **1
405Ça Fourmille
-
6a+ **1
406Ere de Passage L1
-
6a **1
407Ere de Passage L1 + L2
-
6a+ ***1
408Le Phare West
-
6b+ ***1
409Le Coin des Cons et Soeurs L1
-
6c 1
410Le Coin des Cons et Soeurs L1 + L2
-
1 ** 
411Symphonie en Bi Majeur
-
7b  
412La valse des Tortues L1
-
6c+ 1
413La valse des Tortues L1 + L2
-
7b+  
414Geisha
-
7c+  
415Les doigts de l'Homme L1
-
7a+ *1
416Les doigts de l'Homme L1 + L2
-
7c+  
417Intifada des coccinnelles L1
-
Project 1
418Intifada des coccinnelles L1 + L2
-
Project  
419Petite Dalle à Gauche
-
6b  
420Petite Dalle à Droite
-
6a+ **1
 L'Aquariume 
422Voie n°1 la plus à gauche *
-
6c 1
4237a+ a gauche
-
7a+ *2
4247c
-
7c 1
4256b+ Au Milau
-
6b+ 1
426Suite de 6b+
-
7a 1
4277a+ A Gauche De 7b
-
7a+ 1
4287b A Droite
-
7b *1
429Voie n°2 *6c  
430Voie n°4 *
-
7b+ *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mike Owen