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These details were last updated on 26/Aug/2011

Oak Crag

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 32 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 270m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Better than it looks when you arrive, a nice days climbing, it's not such a good crag for those climbing at low grades). it's better for HVS-E2.

The guidebook says that belay stakes are in place on North and Blakey Buttresses. We didn't visit Blakey Buttress, but North Buttress has a single rather suspect stake which will do for the central routes. The routes on left and right of the buttress have no belays - sit in the depression a few metres back from the crag top and think immovable thoughts.

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Guidebooks

Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 NORTH BUTTRESS  
2Blue PeterS 8
3Motley CrewS *15
4PugwashHVS 5a *7
5PokemonHVS 5c *3
6Franco's TraverseE1 6a *4
7The Mighty Oakf7B *1
8DigimonE1 5c **12
9Captain BirdseyeHVS 5b ***26
10PopeyeVD 9
11Hello SailorVD **12
12LegoverVD *2
13PlaytexHS 4a *4
14Centre RouteVD *17
15Get Yer CoatHVS 5b *14
16Cote CrackVS 4b *22
17Rigg SlabD 17
 BLAKEY BUTTRESS  
 Climb nameGradex
19Mountain masterHS 4b *4
20Stump CrackVS 4b *10
21Heather CrackVS 5a  
22Roger The Cabin BoyHVS 4c 1
23Wall and CrackVS 4c *10
24Blakey TraverseVD 4
25Hungry HeartE2 5b **6
 OLD SHEEP PILLAR  
27Sheep can't climbVS 4c 1
28Cadbury FlakeVS 5a *1
29Sheep Can Boulder!VB 4c 1
 OAK BUTTRESS  
31Ash GrooveD 2
32Ash Tree WallHVD 1
33Oak TraverseD 3
34Oak WallD 2
35Hungry MindE2 5b *2
36Twin CracksHVS 5a 5
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Access notes
See north East England Guide.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Warburton ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
In an amazing setting over-looking farndale with exelent soloing on the clean north butress, esecially digimon and captain birdseye. I couldn't find a belay stake however about 10-15 metres back there is a massive crater with a boulder in the bottom if nesecary.
Sam Marks ? - 08/Dec/10

Ace place for HVSs. Mint setting.
Franco Cookson OLD ? - 15/Nov/09

There is a stake next to a large rock (hidden in the bilberry bushes) on the North Buttress that can be used to protect Cote Crack etc. The stake in the centre can be used for Motley Crew and Pugwash, along with a firm stance.
BruceW ? - 03/Aug/09

Great little crag, i have some great memories of this spot. First HVS and first proper E2! A sun trap in the afternoon and the climbing is good. The North Buttress is clean and good quality, the main buttress is MUCH better than it looks. Worth a visit for sure.
DaveWarb - 10/Mar/08

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