Oak Crag

Climbs 33 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 270m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Better than it looks when you arrive, a nice days climbing, it's not such a good crag for those climbing at low grades). it's better for HVS-E2.

The guidebook says that belay stakes are in place on North and Blakey Buttresses. We didn't visit Blakey Buttress, but North Buttress has a single rather suspect stake which will do for the central routes. The routes on left and right of the buttress have no belays - sit in the depression a few metres back from the crag top and think immovable thoughts.

Access notes
See north East England Guide.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks

Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH BUTTRESS  
2Blue PeterS 10
3Motley CrewS *18
4PugwashHVS 5a *10
5PokemonHVS 5c *5
6PokemoffE1 5c 1
7Franco's TraverseE1 6a *4
8The Mighty Oakf7B *1
9DigimonE1 5c **15
10Captain BirdseyeHVS 5b ***28
11PopeyeVD 9
12Hello SailorVD **14
13LegoverVD *2
14PlaytexHS 4a *5
15Centre RouteVD *20
16Get Yer CoatHVS 5b *14
17Cote CrackVS 4b *25
18Rigg SlabD 19
 BLAKEY BUTTRESS  
20Mountain masterHS 4b *5
21Stump CrackVS 4b *11
22Heather CrackVS 5a 1
23Roger The Cabin BoyHVS 4c 1
24Wall and CrackVS 4c *11
25Blakey TraverseVD 4
26Hungry HeartE2 5b **7
 OLD SHEEP PILLAR  
28Sheep can't climbVS 4c 1
29Cadbury FlakeVS 5a *1
30Sheep Can Boulder!VB 4c 1
 OAK BUTTRESS  
32Ash GrooveD 2
33Ash Tree WallHVD 1
34Oak TraverseD 3
35Oak WallD 2
36Hungry MindE2 5b *2
37Twin CracksHVS 5a 5
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
In an amazing setting over-looking farndale with exelent soloing on the clean north butress, esecially digimon and captain birdseye. I couldn't find a belay stake however about 10-15 metres back there is a massive crater with a boulder in the bottom if nesecary.
Sam Marks - 08/Dec/10
Ace place for HVSs. Mint setting.
Franco Cookson OLD - 15/Nov/09
There is a stake next to a large rock (hidden in the bilberry bushes) on the North Buttress that can be used to protect Cote Crack etc. The stake in the centre can be used for Motley Crew and Pugwash, along with a firm stance.
BruceW - 03/Aug/09
Great little crag, i have some great memories of this spot. First HVS and first proper E2! A sun trap in the afternoon and the climbing is good. The North Buttress is clean and good quality, the main buttress is MUCH better than it looks. Worth a visit for sure.
DaveWarb - 10/Mar/08
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These details were last updated on 26/Aug/2011

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