Oak Crag

Climbs 33 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 270m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Better than it looks when you arrive, a nice days climbing, it's not such a good crag for those climbing at low grades). it's better for HVS-E2.

The guidebook says that belay stakes are in place on North and Blakey Buttresses. We didn't visit Blakey Buttress, but North Buttress has a single rather suspect stake which will do for the central routes. The routes on left and right of the buttress have no belays - sit in the depression a few metres back from the crag top and think immovable thoughts.

Access notes
See north East England Guide.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks

Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 NORTH BUTTRESS 
2Blue PeterS
3Motley CrewS *
4PugwashHVS 5a
5PokemonHVS 5c *
6PokemoffE1 5c
7Franco's TraverseE1 6a *
8The Mighty Oakf7B *
9DigimonE1 5c **
10Captain BirdseyeHVS 5b ***
11PopeyeVD
12Hello SailorVD **
13LegoverVD *
14PlaytexHS 4a *
15Centre RouteVD *
16Get Yer CoatHVS 5b *
17Cote CrackVS 4b *
18Rigg SlabD
 BLAKEY BUTTRESS 
20Mountain masterHS 4b *
21Stump CrackVS 4b *
22Heather CrackVS 5a
23Roger The Cabin BoyHVS 4c
24Wall and CrackVS 4c **
25Blakey TraverseVD
26Hungry HeartE2 5b **
27Hungry MindE2 5b *
28Twin CracksHVS 5a
 OLD SHEEP PILLAR 
30Sheep can't climbVS 4c
31Cadbury FlakeVS 5a *
32Sheep Can Boulder!VB 4c
 OAK BUTTRESS 
34Ash GrooveD
35Ash Tree WallHVD
36Oak TraverseD
37Oak WallD
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
In an amazing setting over-looking farndale with exelent soloing on the clean north butress, esecially digimon and captain birdseye. I couldn't find a belay stake however about 10-15 metres back there is a massive crater with a boulder in the bottom if nesecary.
Sam Marks - 08/Dec/10
Ace place for HVSs. Mint setting.
Franco Cookson OLD - 15/Nov/09
There is a stake next to a large rock (hidden in the bilberry bushes) on the North Buttress that can be used to protect Cote Crack etc. The stake in the centre can be used for Motley Crew and Pugwash, along with a firm stance.
BruceW - 03/Aug/09
Great little crag, i have some great memories of this spot. First HVS and first proper E2! A sun trap in the afternoon and the climbing is good. The North Buttress is clean and good quality, the main buttress is MUCH better than it looks. Worth a visit for sure.
DaveWarb - 10/Mar/08
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These details were last updated on 26/Aug/2011
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