Better than it looks when you arrive, a nice days climbing, it's not such a good crag for those climbing at low grades). it's better for HVS-E2.
The guidebook says that belay stakes are in place on North and Blakey Buttresses. We didn't visit Blakey Buttress, but North Buttress has a single rather suspect stake which will do for the central routes. The routes on left and right of the buttress have no belays - sit in the depression a few metres back from the crag top and think immovable thoughts.
See north East England Guide.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|3||Motley Crew||S *||18|
|4||Pugwash||HVS 5a *||10|
|5||Pokemon||HVS 5c *||5|
|7||Franco's Traverse||E1 6a *||4|
|8||The Mighty Oak||f7B *||1|
|9||Digimon||E1 5c **||15|
|10||Captain Birdseye||HVS 5b ***||28|
|12||Hello Sailor||VD **||14|
|14||Playtex||HS 4a *||5|
|15||Centre Route||VD *||20|
|16||Get Yer Coat||HVS 5b *||14|
|17||Cote Crack||VS 4b *||25|
|20||Mountain master||HS 4b *||5|
|21||Stump Crack||VS 4b *||11|
|22||Heather Crack||VS 5a||1|
|23||Roger The Cabin Boy||HVS 4c||1|
|24||Wall and Crack||VS 4c *||11|
|26||Hungry Heart||E2 5b **||7|
|OLD SHEEP PILLAR|
|28||Sheep can't climb||VS 4c||1|
|29||Cadbury Flake||VS 5a *||1|
|30||Sheep Can Boulder!||VB 4c||1|
|33||Ash Tree Wall||HVD||1|
|36||Hungry Mind||E2 5b *||2|
|37||Twin Cracks||HVS 5a||5|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|In an amazing setting over-looking farndale with exelent soloing on the clean north butress, esecially digimon and captain birdseye. I couldn't find a belay stake however about 10-15 metres back there is a massive crater with a boulder in the bottom if nesecary.|
Sam Marks - 08/Dec/10
|Ace place for HVSs. Mint setting.|
Franco Cookson OLD - 15/Nov/09
|There is a stake next to a large rock (hidden in the bilberry bushes) on the North Buttress that can be used to protect Cote Crack etc. The stake in the centre can be used for Motley Crew and Pugwash, along with a firm stance.|
BruceW - 03/Aug/09
|Great little crag, i have some great memories of this spot. First HVS and first proper E2!
A sun trap in the afternoon and the climbing is good. The North Buttress is clean and good quality, the main buttress is MUCH better than it looks.
Worth a visit for sure.|
DaveWarb - 10/Mar/08