Calames

Climbs 220 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 650m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
This is a major crag in SW France, well worth a visit especially by climbers in the middle grades. There are lots of excellent climbs in grades 5 and 6, including several multi-pitch routes (up to 7 pitches) and good quality harder climbing (F7a to F8c). Calames offers an impressive variety of climbing with steep routes on the first sectors and slabs further on.

The crag is south facing and can get hot in summer especially between late May and August. The furthest sectors (Le Col, Presse Puree) and a handful of routes on 'Les Grottes' are in the shade for much of the morning. Sector 'Le Levant' is shady from 1500hrs onwards and 'Les Grottes' from about 1700. The Autumn brings the most reliable conditions but if the weather is right, the crag is climbable all year. The closest accommodation is an english run guesthouse a short walk from the crag (www.basecalames.com), there are plenty of other options for accommodation and climbing in the area.

Free PFD Topo's here - http://cafma.free.fr/calames/fr_cal.htm

stated grades are either from the new guide or the online topo.

Access notes
From the roundabout at the end of the N24 at Tarascon-sur-Ariege take the D614 towards Saurat/Col de Port. After 5 minutes enter the village of Bedeilhac and park in the large carpark on the left. Walk up through the village following the footpath marked with red and yellow stripes arriving at the 1st sector in around 10 minutes.

Guidebooks
France : Ariege (2012), Escalades en Ariege-Pyrenees: Autour de Bedeilhac (2008)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LE COL  
2Samdi6b *6
3Samdynamite6c 2
4Gadou6c **3
5Lichen6a+ **9
6Quel est ton nom ?6b  
7Verdon du pauvre6c ***5
8Plus blanc que blème6c+ **1
9La force soit avec vous7a *1
10Visqueuse insipide7b+  
11Le goujon de plus5a *15
12C'est si louette4c 7
13Six coq six nelles7a ***2
14Six coq six nelles (extension)7a ***1
15Gris éléphant7c  
16Première pour mamie4c 11
17Tramp5a 15
18Les 2 b5a 12
19Il a neigé sur yesterday5a **9
20L'enfer des nains7a **3
21La framcaise6b+ *5
22L's prix d'équipe6b+ **3
23L's prix d'équilibre6b *3
24Des points communs5c **3
 PRESSE PUREE-SANGRIA  
26Interdit aux vélos5c **19
27Le piège6c *7
28Dommage6b+ **4
29Tornado6c 2
30Margote5a *16
31Zébulon5a **19
32À la colle6b+ ***11
33Lassant, non?7a ** 
34Presse purée6c **3
35Le coup de la panne6b+ **3
36Kekcecsa6a *19
37La fée du logis6b **10
38L'herbe rouge6a+ ***25
39Poéter plus haut que son luth5a *11
40Colin5c **19
41Macarel6c+ *2
42Dudule6c *8
43L'écume des jours6a+ 5
44Les neiges du Kilimandjaro5c **27
45Chloé6b **8
46La roujas 15c **18
47Sangria-patience6b  
48Pâques aux tisons5c **5
49Tentation6a *9
50Le tichodrome6a+ **5
 FALAISE DE LEVANT  
52Sketchup6a+ **2
53Calypso6a 2
54Nulle part ailleurs5c 3
55String fluo5c 2
56L'air du temps5c  
57Art du rock7a ***2
58Ragtime7b+ ** 
59London Blues7b  
60Climb7b+  
61Noblesse oblige7b  
62Malina7c  
63Sortidas8a  
 LA GRANDE DALLE  
65La dalette4a 3
66L'envie folle5a 5
67Pendule pour l'enfer5a 11
68Tche-Tche en lunule5a 22
69La voie de Philippe6a **21
70Trop serieux s'abstenir5c 19
71Bathroom5c **28
72Messie c'est bleussipo5a *19
73Hacuna matata5c **14
74Le ratichon blagueur6a+ *12
75Chute libre7a **6
76Engagez-vous y disez6b+ **9
77Voleur de corde6a **23
78La roujas 26a+ **14
79La roujas 36a 7
80Video gag5a 16
81Gag A5c 6
82Les racines du ciel7a 1
83Maya6c  
84Petite fleur7c  
85Salut les boulots7a+  
 LE FRONTON  
87Gag à gogo4a 6
88Gag à part5a 6
89Bruce Lee5a 6
90La première7a **1
91Moitié-moitié7a **4
92À la coule6b *10
93Faut pas tricher6a *9
94As...4c 1
95...Ups6c ***2
96Escalade option fac6b+ 1
 LE PAPY  
98Remouille-moi la compresse5a ***33
99Troiszocloques5a ***21
100Le belge sans moule5a **13
101Roxette5a **21
102Les sinsols5c **41
103Blues pour un chat noir5c **50
104Les instantfataux5c ***56
105Theiere du jardin5a ***67
106Sette et uitte5a **55
107Papylolo5a ***59
108Coralie5c ***39
109Julie Anissa5c **22
110Vercoquins5c **11
111Le Nauc6a **43
112Moustique5c **16
113Les herbes ameres6a **18
114Money5c **19
115La Zonzonette6a+ 1
116Certaines l'aiment chauve6c **1
117Le Cri Du Morpion6c **3
 INITIATION  
119Mamy confiture4a *13
120Gazouillis4c *16
121Mouflette4c **22
122La Risette4c **20
123Choupette4a *24
124Les Papouilles5a *19
125Pomponettes5a *11
 PILIER DES CATHARES  
127Prelude5c *32
128la voie des peres tranquilles5c 19
129le p'tit nicolas5c 8
130Riobi5c 8
131Rio6a **5
132Pilier des Cathares6a ***32
133Mandarine Mecanique5c **7
134La Zipette6b **5
135Avis à la copulation6b **5
136L'ami Zantrop6a+ 2
137Les Pets de Dame aux Celebs6a+ 2
138Arabesque6c ***7
139Psychose7a+ ** 
140Pour Lubeline5c ***31
141Mixte6a **2
142La faim des spitsE1  
 LA VIRE AUX CHEVRES  
144Les Chats d'Ocs6a+ **5
145Bachibouzouk6a+ *4
146Bastos7b *3
147Quad neuf docteur7a *5
148Les Moulures7a+ **3
149Aéro Concept6b **4
150La Partie Cul6c+ **6
151Quo Non Ascendet?7a+ *2
152La Bidounette6b+ **4
153Notre Jeu6b *3
154La Turlute gratos6b+ *2
155Foc del Cel6b+ 2
156Le Génocide des Liliputes6b 2
157Classique d'antan6b 1
158I cal tourna7a+  
159La retour de Tataille7a+ 1
160La surprise de Tataille7b 1
161L'ange exterminateur8a  
162Louanges et reproches8b  
163Un cas pour deux8a+  
 LES MURETTES  
165Sae sur canapés6c+ 1
166Taz6b+  
167Lulu revient6b *2
168Parfum d'automne6b+ **9
169Sol en si6a+ **23
170La Soucarrane6a+ *31
171Barbarella6b+ *14
172Baker Street6b+ **22
173La der des der6c *8
174Brothers in Arms6c **9
175On n'est pas des anges6c **8
176Modestie Blues6b+ **7
177Les Paparasites6b **20
178Après travail pour Corinne7b+ *3
179À vue pour Corinne7a **10
180Poisson d'Avril7a **8
181Basse Critique7b **4
182Pendez-vous haut et court7a **6
183Carambar6c *5
184Poussière de grimpe7a *4
185Johnnie Walker8a ***3
186Belphegor8a+  
 LES GROTTES  
188CayenneProject  
189Overdose de gauche8c  
190Overdose8b+  
191Overdose droite8b+ ** 
192La grande illusion8a  
193La Petit illusion7c **1
194La désillusion8a  
195Meme les nains ont commencé petit8a+  
196Territoires d'ombres7b+ **3
197Histoire d'os7a 4
198Nids de couleuvres8b  
199Crache ton venin7c+ * 
200Bamboula7c **3
201Tout le zinzin7a *6
202Matosoidienne6c+ *9
203Variante a JR6b+ **8
204Saucisse Grillee6c+ **11
205Zelopitheque7a **14
206Chateau Malvet 897a+ **6
207La Bouillie Bordelaise7a+ **4
208Rahan7b+ ***8
209Mosaique7c **3
210Illusion d'un fou8a **1
211Puzzle7c+ *** 
212Homo Plombus7a+ ***13
213Le Fils De Crao7a+ **5
214Lucie6c+ ***16
215Neanderdalle6b **17
216L'autre salaud qui pete6b+ **9
217Cro-magnon6c **5
218Les pierres a feu6a+ ***32
 ABRACADAPLAT  
220Pattes a plat5a 26
221Qui peut le peu peut le plus5c *22
222La Guerre Du Peu6a *7
223Les carres dans l'arbre6a+ 3
224Cinq plus des brouettes6b 7
225D'apparence trompeuse6a **10
226La comtoise6a+ *10
227Tant qu'il y aura des 5 sup6a+ *10
228Abracadaplat6c **1
229Eliminate low-level traversef6C 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Sector "Le Papy" must be one of the best venues for grade 5 routes in France. We almost had the crag to ourselves (mid-March). The rock is not polished, is quite steep in parts and very well endowed with holds. All the routes we did were very fine to outstanding. In particular Coralie is that rare item - a truly memorable sport route! Some of the alleged 40m routes (left end) are in fact fine on a 70m rope. Not sure about the two alleged 45m pitches - didn't risk it... The sunny aspect made it possible to climb comfortably in the sunshine although there was quite a lot of snow on the ground (and falling down the crag on to us), and the views of Pic du Trois Seigneurs covered in snow were stunning. An unmissable venue for climbers of modest ambitions.
Rog Wilko - 17/Mar/10
Really nice easy limestone routes in this sector. Got very hot in the mid afternoon sun though (September) so get there early for pleasant climbing!
bigbobbyking - 15/Sep/09
This is a major crag in SW France, well worth a visit especially by climbers in the middle grades who are often poorly catered for at better known crags. There are numerous excellent climbs in grades 5 and 6, including several multi-pitch routes (some of which require trad gear) and good quality harder climbing (F7a to F8a) in the Secteur des Grottes. The crag can get very hot in summer especially between late May and August, and the weather can be wet in spring. The best time for a visit would be September to November but if the weather is right, the crag is climbable all year - it is a suntrap and it's possible to climb in tee-shirt and shorts in December. It would be possible to combine climbing here with skiing in the upper part of the Ariege Valley or even Andorra.
AlisonC - 05/Dec/05