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These details were last updated on 10/Dec/2010

Calames

Ariege, FRANCE

Climbs 220 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 650m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
This is a major crag in SW France, well worth a visit especially by climbers in the middle grades. There are lots of excellent climbs in grades 5 and 6, including several multi-pitch routes (up to 7 pitches) and good quality harder climbing (F7a to F8c). Calames offers an impressive variety of climbing with steep routes on the first sectors and slabs further on.

The crag is south facing and can get hot in summer especially between late May and August. The furthest sectors (Le Col, Presse Puree) and a handful of routes on 'Les Grottes' are in the shade for much of the morning. Sector 'Le Levant' is shady from 1500hrs onwards and 'Les Grottes' from about 1700. The Autumn brings the most reliable conditions but if the weather is right, the crag is climbable all year. The closest accommodation is an english run guesthouse a short walk from the crag (www.basecalames.com), there are plenty of other options for accommodation and climbing in the area.

Free PFD Topo's here - http://cafma.free.fr/calames/fr_cal.htm

stated grades are either from the new guide or the online topo.

Guidebooks
France : Ariege (2012), Escalades en Ariege-Pyrenees: Autour de Bedeilhac (2008)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 LE COL  
2Samdi6b *5
3Samdynamite6c 2
4Gadou6c **2
5Lichen6a+ **5
6Quel est ton nom ?6b  
7Verdon du pauvre6c ***4
8Plus blanc que blème6c+ **1
9La force soit avec vous7a *1
10Visqueuse insipide7b+  
11Le goujon de plus5 *11
12C'est si louette4+ 4
13Six coq six nelles7a ***1
14Six coq six nelles (extension)7a ***1
15Gris éléphant7c  
16Première pour mamie4+ 7
17Tramp5 12
18Les 2 b5 11
19Il a neigé sur yesterday5 **7
20L'enfer des nains7a **3
21La framcaise6b+ *3
22L's prix d'équipe6b+ **2
23L's prix d'équilibre6b *3
24Des points communs5+ **2
 PRESSE PUREE-SANGRIA  
26Interdit aux vélos5+ **9
27Le piège6c *6
28Dommage6b+ **4
29Tornado6c 2
30Margote5 *9
31Zébulon5 **7
32À la colle6b+ ***10
33Lassant, non?7a ** 
34Presse purée6c **3
35Le coup de la panne6b+ **2
36Kekcecsa6a *11
37La fée du logis6b **10
38L'herbe rouge6a+ ***20
39Poéter plus haut que son luth5 *9
40Colin5+ **16
41Macarel6c+ *2
42Dudule6c *5
43L'écume des jours6a+ 4
44Les neiges du Kilimandjaro5+ **15
45Chloé6b **7
46La roujas 15+ **10
47Sangria-patience6b  
48Pâques aux tisons5+ **3
49Tentation6a *8
50Le tichodrome6a+ **4
 FALAISE DE LEVANT  
52Sketchup6a+ **2
53Calypso6a 2
54Nulle part ailleurs5+ 3
55String fluo5+ 2
56L'air du temps5+  
57Art du rock7a ***2
58Ragtime7b+  
59London Blues7b  
60Climb7b+  
61Noblesse oblige7b  
62Malina7c  
63Sortidas8a  
 LA GRANDE DALLE  
65La dalette4 3
66L'envie folle5 5
67Pendule pour l'enfer5 8
68Tche-Tche en lunule5 16
69La voie de Philippe6a **18
70Trop serieux s'abstenir5+ 16
71Bathroom5+ **18
72Messie c'est bleussipo5 *17
73Hacuna matata5+ **8
74Le ratichon blagueur6a+ *9
75Chute libre7a **4
76Engagez-vous y disez6b+ **8
77Voleur de corde6a **14
78La roujas 26a+ **7
79La roujas 36a 6
80Video gag5 6
81Gag A5+ 2
82Les racines du ciel7a 1
83Maya6c  
84Petite fleur7c  
85Salut les boulots7a+  
 LE FRONTON  
87Gag à gogo4 6
88Gag à part5 6
89Bruce Lee5 6
90La première7a **1
91Moitié-moitié7a **4
92À la coule6b *10
93Faut pas tricher6a *9
94As...4+ 1
95...Ups6c ***2
96Escalade option fac6b+ 1
 LE PAPY  
98Remouille-moi la compresse5 ***24
99Troiszocloques5 ***15
100Le belge sans moule5 **9
101Roxette5 **14
102Les sinsols5+ **25
103Blues pour un chat noir5+ **32
104Les instantfataux5+ ***35
105Theiere du jardin5 ***47
106Sette et uitte5 **43
107Papylolo5 ***37
108Coralie5+ ***29
109Julie Anissa5+ **17
110Vercoquins5+ **11
111Le Nauc6a **29
112Moustique5+ **13
113Les herbes ameres6a **10
 Climb nameGradex
114Money5+ **15
115La Zonzonette6a+  
116Certaines l'aiment chauve6c **1
117Le Cri Du Morpion6c **3
 INITIATION  
119Mamy confiture4 *8
120Gazouillis4+ *10
121Mouflette4+ **16
122La Risette4+ **13
123Choupette4 *17
124Les Papouilles5 *14
125Pomponettes5 *8
 PILIER DES CATHARES  
127Prelude5+ *29
128la voie des peres tranquilles5+ 15
129le p'tit nicolas5+ 6
130Riobi5+ 5
131Rio6a **5
132Pilier des Cathares6a ***19
133Mandarine Mecanique5+ **4
134La Zipette6b **4
135Avis à la copulation6b **5
136L'ami Zantrop6a+ 2
137Les Pets de Dame aux Celebs6a+ 2
138Arabesque6c ***7
139Pour Lubeline5+ ***22
140Mixte6a ** 
141La faim des spitsE1  
 LA VIRE AUX CHEVRES  
143Les Chats d'Ocs6a+ **5
144Bachibouzouk6a+ *4
145Bastos7b *3
146Quad neuf docteur7a *3
147Les Moulures7a+ **3
148Aéro Concept6b **3
149La Partie Cul6c+ **6
150Quo Non Ascendet?7a+ *2
151La Bidounette6b+ **2
152Notre Jeu6b *2
153La Turlute gratos6b+ *2
154Foc del Cel6b+ 2
155Le Génocide des Liliputes6b 2
156Classique d'antan6b 1
157I cal tourna7a+  
158La retour de Tataille7a+ 1
159La surprise de Tataille7b 1
160L'ange exterminateur8a  
161Louanges et reproches8b  
162Un cas pour deux8a+  
 LES MURETTES  
164Sae sur canapés6c+ 1
165Taz6b+  
166Lulu revient6b *2
167Parfum d'automne6b+ **9
168Sol en si6a+ **20
169La Soucarrane6a+ *25
170Barbarella6b+ *14
171Baker Street6b+ **21
172La der des der6c *8
173Brothers in Arms6c **9
174On n'est pas des anges6c **7
175Modestie Blues6b+ **5
176Les Paparasites6b **14
177Après travail pour Corinne7b+ *3
178À vue pour Corinne7a **5
179Poisson d'Avril7a **5
180Basse Critique7b **2
181Pendez-vous haut et court7a **4
182Carambar6c *4
183Poussière de grimpe7a *5
184Johnnie Walker8a ***1
185Belphegor8a+  
 LES GROTTES  
187CayenneProject  
188Overdose de gauche8c  
189Overdose8b+  
190La grande illusion8a  
191La Petit illusion7c **1
192La désillusion8a  
193Meme les nains ont commencé petit8a+  
194Territoires d'ombres7b+ **3
195Histoire d'os7a 3
196Nids de couleuvres8b  
197Crache ton venin7c+ * 
198Bamboula7c **3
199Tout le zinzin7a *7
200Matosoidienne6c+ *8
201Variante a JR6b+ **5
202Saucisse Grillee6c+ **9
203Zelopitheque7a **10
204Chateau Malvet 897a+ **6
205La Bouillie Bordelaise7a+ **4
206Rahan7b+ ***6
207Mosaique7c **2
208Illusion d'un fou8a **1
209Puzzle7c+ *** 
210Homo Plombus7a+ ***9
211Le Fils De Crao7a+ **5
212Lucie6c+ ***10
213Neanderdalle6b **12
214L'autre salaud qui pete6b+ **6
215Cro-magnon6c **5
216Les pierres a feu6a+ ***28
217Pattes a plat5 26
218Qui peut le peu peut le plus5+ *20
219La Guerre Du Peu6a *4
220Les carres dans l'arbre6a+ 3
221Cinq plus des brouettes6b 5
222D'apparence trompeuse6a **9
223La comtoise6a+ *8
224Tant qu'il y aura des 5 sup6a+ *10
225Abracadaplat6c **1
226Eliminate low-level traversef6C 2
Access notes
From the roundabout at the end of the N24 at Tarascon-sur-Ariege take the D614 towards Saurat/Col de Port. After 5 minutes enter the village of Bedeilhac and park in the large carpark on the left. Walk up through the village following the footpath marked with red and yellow stripes arriving at the 1st sector in around 10 minutes.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer JonS ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Sector "Le Papy" must be one of the best venues for grade 5 routes in France. We almost had the crag to ourselves (mid-March). The rock is not polished, is quite steep in parts and very well endowed with holds. All the routes we did were very fine to outstanding. In particular Coralie is that rare item - a truly memorable sport route! Some of the alleged 40m routes (left end) are in fact fine on a 70m rope. Not sure about the two alleged 45m pitches - didn't risk it... The sunny aspect made it possible to climb comfortably in the sunshine although there was quite a lot of snow on the ground (and falling down the crag on to us), and the views of Pic du Trois Seigneurs covered in snow were stunning. An unmissable venue for climbers of modest ambitions.
Rog Wilko ? - 17/Mar/10

Really nice easy limestone routes in this sector. Got very hot in the mid afternoon sun though (September) so get there early for pleasant climbing!
bigbobbyking ? - 15/Sep/09

This is a major crag in SW France, well worth a visit especially by climbers in the middle grades who are often poorly catered for at better known crags. There are numerous excellent climbs in grades 5 and 6, including several multi-pitch routes (some of which require trad gear) and good quality harder climbing (F7a to F8a) in the Secteur des Grottes. The crag can get very hot in summer especially between late May and August, and the weather can be wet in spring. The best time for a visit would be September to November but if the weather is right, the crag is climbable all year - it is a suntrap and it's possible to climb in tee-shirt and shorts in December. It would be possible to combine climbing here with skiing in the upper part of the Ariege Valley or even Andorra.
AlisonC - 05/Dec/05