Climbs 222
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 650m a.s.l
Faces S

Drew mid way up À vue pour Corinne © Phil Belcher

Crag features

This is a major crag in SW France, well worth a visit especially by climbers in the middle grades. There are lots of excellent climbs in grades 5 and 6, including several multi-pitch routes (up to 7 pitches) and good quality harder climbing (F7a to F8c). Calames offers an impressive variety of climbing with steep routes on the first sectors and slabs further on.

The crag is south facing and can get hot in summer especially between late May and August. The furthest sectors (Le Col, Presse Puree) and a handful of routes on 'Les Grottes' are in the shade for much of the morning. Sector 'Le Levant' is shady from 1500hrs onwards and 'Les Grottes' from about 1700. The Autumn brings the most reliable conditions but if the weather is right, the crag is climbable all year. The closest accommodation is an english run guesthouse a short walk from the crag (www.basecalames.com), there are plenty of other options for accommodation and climbing in the area.

Free PFD Topo's here - http://cafma.free.fr/calames/fr_cal.htm

stated grades are either from the new guide or the online topo.

Approach notes

From the roundabout at the end of the N24 at Tarascon-sur-Ariege take the D614 towards Saurat/Col de Port. After 5 minutes enter the village of Bedeilhac and park in the large carpark on the left. Walk up through the village following the footpath marked with red and yellow stripes arriving at the 1st sector in around 10 minutes.

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Guidebooks

France : Ariege

The Ariège region of Southern France is the compact area where the Ariège River cuts through the Pyrenées on its way from Andorra to the coast. There is a lot of high quality climbing in the area with a superb variety of rock types to go at; from the soaring granite slabs of the Dent d’Orlu, to the steep limestone bulges of Génat. Limestone, granite and gneiss are on offer and routes vary in size from boulder problems to long epics of over 20 pitches. The area has a long and intriguing history and offers plenty to do apart from the climbing, including mountain walking, caving, river rafting, skiing and checking out the many ancient castles. Factor in the year-round climbing, easy access from northern Europe and plenty of high quality accommodation in the area and it is easy to see that the Ariège region has lots to offer. This guidebook covers all the major climbs on the crags covered. It details sport routes and longer mountain trad. There are also sections on mountain walks and other activities.
More info
Sector "Le Papy" must be one of the best venues for grade 5 routes in France. We almost had the crag to ourselves (mid-March). The rock is not polished, is quite steep in parts and very well endowed with holds. All the routes we did were very fine to outstanding. In particular Coralie is that rare item - a truly memorable sport route! Some of the alleged 40m routes (left end) are in fact fine on a 70m rope. Not sure about the two alleged 45m pitches - didn't risk it... The sunny aspect made it possible to climb comfortably in the sunshine although there was quite a lot of snow on the ground (and falling down the crag on to us), and the views of Pic du Trois Seigneurs covered in snow were stunning. An unmissable venue for climbers of modest ambitions.
Rog Wilko - 17/Mar/10
Really nice easy limestone routes in this sector. Got very hot in the mid afternoon sun though (September) so get there early for pleasant climbing!
bigbobbyking - 15/Sep/09
This is a major crag in SW France, well worth a visit especially by climbers in the middle grades who are often poorly catered for at better known crags. There are numerous excellent climbs in grades 5 and 6, including several multi-pitch routes (some of which require trad gear) and good quality harder climbing (F7a to F8a) in the Secteur des Grottes. The crag can get very hot in summer especially between late May and August, and the weather can be wet in spring. The best time for a visit would be September to November but if the weather is right, the crag is climbable all year - it is a suntrap and it's possible to climb in tee-shirt and shorts in December. It would be possible to combine climbing here with skiing in the upper part of the Ariege Valley or even Andorra.
AlisonC - 05/Dec/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Le Col 
2Samdi6b *10
3Samdynamite6c *2
4Gadou6c **4
5Lichen6a+ **12
6Quel est ton nom ?6b *3
7Verdon du pauvre6c ***9
8Plus blanc que blème6c+ **1
9La force soit avec vous7a+ **4
10Visqueuse insipide7b+ ** 
11Le goujon de plus5a *22
12C'est si louette4c *9
13Six coq six nelles7a ***5
14Six coq six nelles (extension)7a ***2
15Gris éléphant7c ***1
16Première pour mamie4c **14
17Tramp5a **17
18Les 2 b5a **16
19Il a neigé sur yesterday5c **16
20L'enfer des nains7a ***4
21La framcaise6b **6
22L's prix d'équipe6b+ **4
23L's prix d'équilibre6b *6
24Des points communs5c **7
 Presse Puree-Sangria 
26Interdit aux vélos5c **21
27Le piège6c *7
28Dommage6b+ **6
29Tornado6c **3
30Margote5a *20
31Zébulon5c **23
32À la colle6b+ ***14
33Lassant, non?7a ** 
34Presse purée6c **4
35Le coup de la panne6c **3
36Kekcecsa6a **20
37La fée du logis6b **13
38L'herbe rouge6a+ ***30
39Poéter plus haut que son luth5a *15
40Colin5c **26
41Macarel6c+ *3
42Dudule6c **9
43L'écume des jours6a+ *9
44Les neiges du Kilimandjaro5c ***45
45Chloé6b **11
46La roujas 15c *21
47Sangria-patience6b  
48Pâques aux tisons5c **8
49Tentation6a+ *14
50Le tichodrome6a+ **8
 Falaise de Levant 
52Sketchup6a+ **3
53Calypso6a 3
54Nulle part ailleurs5c 4
55String fluo5c 3
56L'air du temps5c  
57Art du rock7a ***2
58Ragtime7b+ ** 
59London Blues7b  
60Climb7b+  
61Noblesse oblige7b  
62Malina7c  
63Sortidas8a  
 La Grande Dalle 
65La dalette5a *3
66L'envie folle
-
5a 5
67Pendule pour l'enfer5a **11
68Tche-Tche en lunule5a *26
69La voie de Philippe6a+ **25
70Trop serieux s'abstenir5c **22
71Bathroom6a **34
72Les 2 Blondes5b 2
73Messie c'est bleussipo5c *19
74Hacuna matata5c **17
75Le ratichon blagueur6a+ **18
76Chute libre7a **9
77Engagez-vous y disez6b+ **12
78Voleur de corde6a **29
79La roujas 26a+ ***16
80La roujas 36a **7
81Video gag5c **19
82Gag A5c *6
83Les racines du ciel7a **1
84Maya7a ** 
85Petite fleur7c ** 
86Salut les boulots7a+ ** 
87La Ligne Rouge6a 1
 Le Fronton 
89Gag à gogo4a 6
90Gag à part5a 6
91Bruce Lee5a 6
92La première7a **2
93Moitié-moitié7a **6
94À la coule6b *11
95Faut pas tricher6a *10
96As...4c 1
97...Ups6c ***2
98Escalade option fac
-
6b+ 1
 Le Papy 
100Remouille-moi la compresse5a ***40
101Troiszocloques5a ***27
102Le belge sans moule5a **16
103Roxette5a **29
104Les sinsols5c **45
105Blues pour un chat noir5c **58
106Les instantfataux5c ***68
107Theiere du jardin5a ***87
108Sette et uitte5a **65
109Papylolo5a ***74
110Coralie5c ***47
111Julie Anissa5c **27
112Vercoquins5c *13
113Le Nauc6a **49
114Moustique5c **21
115Les herbes ameres6a **19
116Money5c **22
117La Zonzonette6a+ **2
118Certaines l'aiment chauve6c **2
119Le Cri Du Morpion6c **4
 Initiation 
121Mamy confiture4a **19
122Gazouillis4c **23
123Mouflette4c **28
124La Risette4a ***30
125Choupette4a **29
126Les Papouilles5a **26
127Pomponettes5a **14
 Pilier des Cathares 
129Prelude5c *36
130la voie des peres tranquilles5c **23
131le p'tit nicolas5c *8
132Riobi5c **10
133Rio6a **8
134Pilier des Cathares6a+ ***37
135Mandarine Mecanique5c **7
136La Zipette6b **5
137Avis à la copulation6b **5
138L'ami Zantrop6a+ **3
139Les Pets de Dame aux Celebs6a+ *3
140Arabesque6c ***8
141Psychose7a+ ** 
142Pour Lubeline5c ***38
143Mixte6a **3
144La main d'Ancelin6a **2
145Pour Jorane5c  
146Ta peur bloc5c *1
147La faim des spitsE1  
 La Vire aux Chevres 
149Les Chats d'Ocs6a+ **11
150Bachibouzouk6a+ *9
151Bastos7b *4
152Quad neuf docteur7a **7
153Les Moulures7a+ **6
154Aéro Concept6b **7
155La Partie Cul6c+ **6
156Quo Non Ascendet?7a+ *2
157La Bidounette6b+ **5
158Notre Jeu6b+ **5
159La Turlute gratos6b+ *2
160Foc del Cel6b+ **2
161Le Génocide des Liliputes6b *2
162Classique d'antan6b+ **1
163I cal tourna7a+ * 
164La retour de Tataille7a+ ***2
165La surprise de Tataille7b ***1
166L'ange exterminateur8a *** 
167Louanges et reproches8b *** 
168Un cas pour deux8a+ *** 
 Les Murettes 
170Sae sur canapés6c+ **1
171Taz6b * 
172Lulu revient6b+ 2
173Parfum d'automne6b+ **11
174Sol en si6a *33
175La Soucarrane6a+ **39
176Barbarella6b+ *17
177Baker Street6b+ **27
178La der des der6b+ *10
179Brothers in Arms6c **10
180On n'est pas des anges6c **9
181Modestie Blues6c **13
182Les Paparasites6b **28
183Après travail pour Corinne7b **4
184À vue pour Corinne7a ***11
185Poisson d'Avril7a+ **8
186Basse Critique7b **4
187Pendez-vous haut et court7a **6
188Carambar6c **5
189Poussière de grimpe7a *4
190Johnnie Walker8a ***3
191Belphegor8a+ * 
 Les Grottes 
193CayenneProject  
194Overdose de gauche8c ** 
195Overdose8b+ ** 
196Overdose droite8b+ ** 
197La grande illusion8a *** 
198La Petit illusion7c ***2
199La désillusion8a *** 
200Meme les nains ont commencé petit8a+ ** 
201Territoires d'ombres7b+ **4
202Histoire d'os7a *5
203Nids de couleuvres8b * 
204Crache ton venin7c+ *1
205Bamboula7c **3
206Tout le zinzin7a *6
207Matosoidienne6c+ *9
208Variante a JR6c ***15
209Saucisse Grillee6c+ **11
210Zelopitheque7a **20
211Chateau Malvet 897a+ **6
212La Bouillie Bordelaise7a+ **4
213Rahan7b+ ***9
214Mosaique7c **5
215Illusion d'un fou8a **1
216Puzzle8a **1
217Homo Plombus7b ***15
218Le Fils De Crao7a+ **6
219Lucie6c+ ***20
220Neanderdalle6b **20
221L'autre salaud qui pete6b+ *10
222Cro-magnon6c *6
223Les pierres a feu6a+ **34
 Abracadaplat 
225Pattes a plat5a 28
226Qui peut le peu peut le plus6a 22
227La Guerre Du Peu6a 7
228Les carres dans l'arbre6a+ 3
229Cinq plus des brouettes6b 8
230D'apparence trompeuse6a 10
231La comtoise6a+ 10
232Tant qu'il y aura des 5 sup6a+ 10
233Abracadaplat6c **2
234Eliminate low-level traversef6C 2

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