Climbs 83
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 700m a.s.l
Faces SE

Dave Birkett on 'Impact Day' E8/9 6c, Pavey Ark. © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Crag features

Long routes, good selection at all grades. Sound and amazingly rough rock in places. Best routes - Cruel Sister(E3), Arcturus(E1), Capella(E1), Bracken Clock(E2), Rake End Wall(VS), Rake End Chimney(D), Golden Slipper(HVS), Mother Courage(E4), Impact Day(E8), Sixpence(E6), Astra(E2), Fallen Angel(E4).

Approach notes

Park in large car parks at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.About one hour uphill walk.

Guidebooks

What is shelter from the storm? it certainly isn't a classic route.
Alan Phizacklea - 06/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Pavey Ark summit
-
summit 512
2Jack's Rake1 ***890
 Below Jack's Rake 
4Deception
-
S 23
5Obscured by Clouds
-
E4 6a 2
6The Rainmaker
-
E1 5b 17
7Maggie's Farm
-
E3 5c 2
8Cruel SisterE3 5c ***135
9Astral By-WayE3 5b *1
10Big Brother
-
E3 5c **11
11ArcturusE1 5b ***338
12CapellaE1 5b ***374
13AlphekkaE2 5c **3
14Wailing Wall
-
VS 4c 5
15Alph
-
VS 4c *7
16Crescent SlabsS **293
17VenusE1 5b **8
18MarsE3 5c **2
19Black Slab
-
VS 5a 32
20Crescent Climb
-
M *317
21Crescent Direct
-
VS 4c *5
22Crescent Super Direct
-
E3 5c  
 Stoney Buttress 
24The Ragman's Trumpet
-
E2 5c *4
25Great Gully
-
D *20
26The Hobbit
-
E2 5b 3
27Sinistral
-
E1 5a 1
28Little Gully
-
M *9
 Above Jack's Rake 
30Stoat's Crack
-
HS **167
31Stickle Grooves
-
HVS 5a *5
32The Bracken-ClockE2 5c **178
33Rock Around the Clock
-
E3 6a 4
34By-Pass Route
-
HVS 5a 10
35Rake End WallVS 4c ***344
36The Rib PitchHVS 5a *91
37death starE5 5c 2
38Rake End ChimneyD **63
39The RibE1 5c 10
40Cook's Tour
-
VD *129
41Rectangular Slab
-
VS 4c *42
42Rectangular Rib
-
HVS 5a *20
43CoatiVS 4b **54
44Aardvark
-
E1 5c **104
45Gwynne's Chimney
-
D *219
46Stalag
-
VS 4c *5
47Troll's Corner
-
HVS 5a **12
48Poker FaceE1 5b **149
49Golden SlipperHVS 5a ***625
50Roundabout Direct
-
HVS 5a *7
 East Buttress 
52Brain Damage
-
E3 5c *12
53Coma
-
E4 6a 1
54Mother Courage
-
E4 6a ***21
55Assault and Matrimony
-
E4 6a 1
56Red Groove
-
E1 5a *28
57Kudos
-
E2 5c *3
58Risus
-
E2 5c *7
59Hobson's Choice
-
VS 4b *15
60Impact DayE8 6c *** 
61Sixpence
-
E6 6b ***22
62Eclipse
-
E4 6a **18
63AstraE2 5c ***266
64Supernova
-
E5 6a * 
65Fallen Angel
-
E4 6a ***41
66Angel Heart
-
E7 6a 3
67Heartsong
-
E4 6b *2
68Cascade
-
HVS 5a *69
69Cascade Direct
-
E3 5c **34
70Bennison's ChimneyVD  
71Aquarius
-
HVS 5a ***7
72Startrek
-
E3 5c **3
73Easy Gully1 **35
74Pavey Far East
-
2 *11
 North Buttress 
76Blood on the Tracks
-
E3 5c **3
 Winter Routes 
78Jack's Rake (Winter)
-
I 90
79Stoats CrackVI 6 *2
80Cook's TourIV 7
81DeceptionIV 5 *3
82Stony ButtressIII  
83Great GullyIII *6
84Middling ButtressIII *9
85Little Gully Right BranchII 4
86Little Gully Left Branch
-
II 4
87Great Gully DirectIII 1
88Little Gully Right Left BranchIII **20
89Gibsons chimneyIII 2

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