Climbs 83
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 700m a.s.l
Faces SE

Dave Birkett on 'Impact Day' E8/9 6c, Pavey Ark. © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Crag features

Long routes, good selection at all grades. Sound and amazingly rough rock in places. Best routes - Cruel Sister(E3), Arcturus(E1), Capella(E1), Bracken Clock(E2), Rake End Wall(VS), Rake End Chimney(D), Golden Slipper(HVS), Mother Courage(E4), Impact Day(E9), Sixpence(E6), Astra(E2), Fallen Angel(E4), Shelter from the Storm(E3).

Approach notes

Park in large car parks at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.About one hour uphill walk.

Guidebooks

What is shelter from the storm? it certainly isn't a classic route.
Alan Phizacklea - 06/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Pavey Ark summit
-
summit 464
2Jack's Rake1 ***822
 Below Jack's Rake 
4Deception
-
S 22
5Obscured by Clouds
-
E4 6a 2
6The Rainmaker
-
E1 5b 17
7Maggie's Farm
-
E3 5c 2
8Cruel SisterE3 5c ***131
9Astral By-WayE3 5b *1
10Big Brother
-
E3 5c **11
11ArcturusE1 5b ***277
12CapellaE1 5b ***330
13AlphekkaE2 5c **3
14Wailing Wall
-
VS 4c 5
15Alph
-
VS 4c *5
16Crescent SlabsS **263
17VenusE1 5b **4
18MarsE3 5c **2
19Black Slab
-
VS 5a 31
20Crescent Climb
-
M *284
21Crescent Direct
-
VS 4c *5
22Crescent Super Direct
-
E3 5c  
 Stoney Buttress 
24The Ragman's Trumpet
-
E2 5c *4
25Great Gully
-
D *17
26The Hobbit
-
E2 5b 3
27Sinistral
-
E1 5a 1
28Little Gully
-
M *8
 Above Jack's Rake 
30Stoat's Crack
-
HS **161
31Stickle Grooves
-
HVS 5a *4
32The Bracken-ClockE2 5c **147
33Rock Around the Clock
-
E3 6a 4
34By-Pass Route
-
HVS 5a 9
35Rake End WallVS 4c ***323
36The Rib PitchHVS 5a *85
37death starE5 5c 2
38Rake End ChimneyD **60
39The RibE1 5c 10
40Cook's Tour
-
VD *120
41Rectangular Slab
-
VS 4c *34
42Rectangular Rib
-
HVS 5a *17
43CoatiVS 4b **38
44Aardvark
-
E1 5c *87
45Gwynne's Chimney
-
D *192
46Stalag
-
VS 4c *5
47Troll's Corner
-
HVS 5a **10
48Poker FaceE1 5b **138
49Golden SlipperHVS 5a ***577
50Roundabout Direct
-
HVS 5a *6
 East Buttress 
52Brain Damage
-
E3 5c *12
53Coma
-
E4 6a 1
54Mother Courage
-
E4 6a ***21
55Assault and Matrimony
-
E4 6a 1
56Red Groove
-
E1 5a *28
57Kudos
-
E2 5c *3
58Risus
-
E2 5c *7
59Hobson's Choice
-
VS 4b *14
60Impact DayE8 6c *** 
61Sixpence
-
E6 6b ***10
62Eclipse
-
E4 6a **18
63AstraE2 5c ***242
64Supernova
-
E5 6a * 
65Fallen Angel
-
E4 6a ***52
66Angel Heart
-
E7 6a 3
67Heartsong
-
E4 6b *2
68Cascade
-
HVS 5a *60
69Cascade Direct
-
E3 5c **34
70Aquarius
-
HVS 5a ***5
71Startrek
-
E3 5c **3
72Easy Gully1 **32
73Pavey Far East
-
2 *10
 North Buttress 
75Blood on the Tracks
-
E3 5c **2
 Winter Routes 
77Jack's Rake (Winter)
-
I 90
78Stoats CrackVI 6 *2
79Cook's TourIV 7
80DeceptionIV 5 *3
81Stony ButtressIII  
82Great GullyIII *8
83Middling ButtressIII *9
84Little Gully Right BranchII 3
85Little Gully Left Branch
-
II 4
86Great Gully DirectIII 1
87Little Gully Right Left BranchIII **20
88Gibsons chimneyIII 2
89Bennison's Chimney *none hvv  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Liam Ingram