Climbs 101
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 525m a.s.l
Faces S

'D' route on Gimmer © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Long routes of all grades on superb rock in a fantastic position. One of the best crags in the Lakes. Classics - Gimmer Chimney(VD), Bracket and Slab(MVS), A,B,C and D Routes(S), Oliversons(VD), Spring Bank(E2), Whits End Direct(E1), F Route(VS), Eastern Hammer(E3), Equus(E2), Kipling Groove(HVS), Ash Tree Slabs(VD), Intern(E1), NW Arete(VS), Asterisk(MVS), Gimmer String(E1), The Crack(VS), Dight(E1), Grand Finale(E1).

Approach notes

There are three main approaches;
From Stickle Barn NT car park take the main Dungeon Ghyll from the North end of the car park. Cross the gill after 500m and then continue for another 1km until you emerge on to an open plateau. Head west and when the path starts to rise again take a faint left track at a large cairn, the crag comes into view.
From the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel take the path towards Raven crag as far as the gate in the new fence. Turn left & follow a slight track below the fence to a stile then zig zag up the scree. Continue in the same direction for 50m until a better defined path leads right then back left across an area of terraces. Continue diagonally left wards, into a ravine. Beyond this either head horizontally to the NW Face or upwards to the SE Face.
Alternatively follow Mickledore until you are below the crag, then head gruellingly upwards.

Guidebooks

Langdale (2013)
Out of print:
Langdale (1999)
Langdale (1989)
Baffled by the star ratings given for routes on this crag by UKC. Why are classics such as 'D' Route and North-west Arete only given one star? They are 3 star routes in the FRCC guide, and I'm sure most who have climbed them would agree with this.
CathS - 25/Jul/11
No, the walk-in isn't a pain, it's a joy!
Rog Wilko - 01/Jun/10
One of the finest crags in the Lakes with loads of classic routes. The walkin is a pain, but if you solo Middlefell Buttress on Raven Crag first (a polished Diff)and then traverse the hillside it makes it much nicer. Go there.
DaveR - 18/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Wall 
2Availed of tiersHS *7
3Three Tiers ClimbVS 4c **9
4The Purple EdgeVS 4c **21
5Main Wall Climb
-
VD **177
6Headwall Left CrackE3 6a 1
7Headwall Central Crack
-
HVS 5a *6
8Headwall Right Crack
-
HVS 5a *5
9Grondle Grooves
-
HS *9
 South East Face 
11South-East Gully
-
2 18
12Gimmer Gorilla
-
E1 5b  
13Bachelor Crack
-
HS 4b **41
14Chimney buttress
-
S **20
15South-East Upper Traverse
-
M 1
16Sleeping Soilders
-
E2 5b  
17South-East Lower Traverse
-
D 2
18Gimmer Chimney
-
VD ***377
19British Bulldogs
-
E5 6b  
20RememberanceHVS 5a **54
21Absence Of Malice
-
E2 5c *6
22Bracket and Slab Climb
-
S ***686
23Bracket and Slab Climb Direct start
-
VS 4b 251
24Crow's Nest Direct
-
HVS 5a **65
25Bracket DirectHVS 5a **9
26Green Gambit Variation
-
VS 4b  
 West Face 
28'B' Route
-
S ***200
29'C' Route
-
S ***443
30'A' Route
-
MS ***206
31Diphthong
-
HS 4b *19
32The Crimson PirateVS 4b 11
33'E' Route
-
HS 4b *33
34Lichen Groove
-
HS 4b **17
35Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's Crawl
-
VD ***65
36Ee-By-Gum
-
E1 5c *1
37'D' RouteS ***609
38Dodgy 'D' Variation
-
HVS 5a 1
39Musgrave's Traverse
-
MVS 4c 1
40Phiz-Holdens Climb
-
E1 5c *6
41Spring Bank
-
E2 5c ***283
42Whit's End Direct
-
E1 5b ***427
43Whit's End
-
VS 4c **45
44'F' Route
-
VS 4c ***717
45Poacher
-
E1 5a **61
46Poacher Right-Hand
-
E2 5b **3
47Enormous Room
-
E3 6a *3
48Hyphen
-
S 4a *11
49Eastern Hammer
-
E3 6a ***85
50Equus
-
E2 5c ***115
51Equus Original Finish Variation
-
E2  
52Kipling Groove
-
HVS 5a ***763
53Barry's Traverse
-
VS 4c 5
 North West Face (Lower Section) 
55Prelude
-
D 20
56InterludeVD *13
57Cartwheel
-
VD *4
58GambolVS 4b *2
59Herdwick ButtressVD **31
60IntroductionMVS 4b **80
61Crystal
-
E1 5b **53
62Ash Tree CornerVS 4c *130
63Ash Tree Slabs Direct
-
VS 4b **37
64Ash Tree Slabs
-
VD ***808
65Ash Tree Slabs Variation Super Direct Start
-
VS 4b 4
66Joas
-
VS 4c *35
67Intern
-
E1 5b ***240
68Langdale Cowboys
-
E4 5c *2
69Langdale Cowboys Continuation
-
E4 6b  
70North-West EliminateHVS 5a **2
71North West Arete
-
VS 4b ***612
72Asterisk
-
VS 4b ***378
73Detour
-
VS 4c **27
74Samaritan Corner
-
MVS 4c **46
75Girdle Traverse of Lower North-West Face
-
VS 4c **1
 North West Face (Upper Section) 
77Midnight Movie
-
E4 6b **7
78Breaking Point
-
E2 5c *3
79Gimmer String
-
E1 5b ***245
80Gimmer String Direct Start
-
HVS 3
81The Crack
-
VS 4c ***754
82Gimmer High Girdle
-
E1 5b ** 
83Outside Tokyo/Dight
-
E1 5b ***66
84Outside Tokyo, Original Finish
-
E2 5b 3
85Dight
-
E1 5b *19
86Dancin' Barefoot
-
E1 5b 1
87HiatusVS 4b **35
88Hiatus: Bridge's Variation
-
VS 5a  
89Inertia
-
HVS 5a **20
90Grooves Superdirect
-
HVS 5b **5
91Grooves TraverseHVS 5a **5
92Grand FinaleE1 5b ***19
93CarpetbaggerVS 4b **7
94The Dream Merchants
-
VS 5a *2
95Godiva GrooveVS 4b *10
96Ray Parker Is Innocent
-
VS 4c *1
97Juniper Buttress
-
MS *4
98Junipall Gully
-
M 6
 Pallid Buttress 
100Hash'n'Trash
-
E1 5c * 
101NocturneVS 4b **6
102Pallid Slabs
-
S 4a **6
103Paleface
-
S 4a *4
104Wall End
-
MS *2
105Ashen Traverse
-
VS 4c *2
106The Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5a **4
 Unknown location 
108Out of the Blue *VS 4c *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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