Climbs 101
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 525m a.s.l
Faces S

'D' route on Gimmer © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Long routes of all grades on superb rock in a fantastic position. One of the best crags in the Lakes. Classics - Gimmer Chimney(VD), Bracket and Slab(MVS), A,B,C and D Routes(S), Oliversons(VD), Spring Bank(E2), Whits End Direct(E1), F Route(VS), Eastern Hammer(E3), Equus(E2), Kipling Groove(HVS), Ash Tree Slabs(VD), Intern(E1), NW Arete(VS), Asterisk(MVS), Gimmer String(E1), The Crack(VS), Dight(E1), Grand Finale(E1).

Approach notes

There are three main approaches;

From Stickle Barn NT car park take the main Dungeon Ghyll from the North end of the car park. Cross the gill after 500m and then continue for another 1km until you emerge on to an open plateau. Head west and when the path starts to rise again take a faint left track at a large cairn, the crag comes into view.

From the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel take the path towards Raven crag as far as the gate in the new fence. Turn left & follow a slight track below the fence to a stile then zig zag up the scree. Continue in the same direction for 50m until a better defined path leads right then back left across an area of terraces. Continue diagonally left wards, into a ravine. Beyond this either head horizontally to the NW Face or upwards to the SE Face.

Alternatively follow Mickledore until you are below the crag, then head gruellingly upwards.


Langdale (2013)
Out of print:
Langdale (1999)
Langdale (1989)
Baffled by the star ratings given for routes on this crag by UKC. Why are classics such as 'D' Route and North-west Arete only given one star? They are 3 star routes in the FRCC guide, and I'm sure most who have climbed them would agree with this.
CathS - 25/Jul/11
No, the walk-in isn't a pain, it's a joy!
Rog Wilko - 01/Jun/10
One of the finest crags in the Lakes with loads of classic routes. The walkin is a pain, but if you solo Middlefell Buttress on Raven Crag first (a polished Diff)and then traverse the hillside it makes it much nicer. Go there.
DaveR - 18/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Wall 
2Availed of tiersHS *6
3Three Tiers ClimbVS 4c **8
4The Purple EdgeVS 4c **17
5Main Wall Climb
VD **168
6Headwall Left CrackE3 6a  
7Headwall Central Crack
HVS 5a *4
8Headwall Right Crack
HVS 5a *3
9Grondle Grooves
HS *5
 South East Face 
11South-East Gully
2 16
12Gimmer Gorilla
E1 5b  
13Bachelor Crack
HS 4b **39
14Chimney buttress
S **19
15South-East Upper Traverse
M 1
16Sleeping Soilders
E2 5b  
17South-East Lower Traverse
D 2
18Gimmer Chimney
VD ***327
19British Bulldogs
E5 6b  
20RememberanceHVS 5a **47
21Absence Of Malice
E2 5c *6
22Bracket and Slab Climb
S ***588
23Bracket and Slab Climb Direct start
VS 4b 252
24Crow's Nest Direct
HVS 5a **63
25Bracket DirectHVS 5a **8
26Green Gambit Variation
VS 4b  
 West Face 
28'B' Route
S ***167
29'C' Route
S ***385
30'A' Route
MS ***192
HS 4b *19
32The Crimson PirateVS 4b 9
33'E' Route
HS 4b *32
34Lichen Groove
HS 4b **17
35Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's Crawl
VD ***63
E1 5c *1
37'D' RouteS ***582
38Dodgy 'D' Variation
HVS 5a 1
39Musgrave's Traverse
MVS 4c 1
40Phiz-Holdens Climb
E1 5c *5
41Spring Bank
E2 5c ***225
42Whit's End Direct
E1 5b ***342
43Whit's End
VS 4c **43
44'F' Route
VS 4c ***601
E1 5a **58
46Poacher Right-Hand
E2 5b **3
47Enormous Room
E3 6a *3
S 4a *10
49Eastern Hammer
E3 6a ***81
E2 5c ***109
51Equus Original Finish Variation
52Kipling Groove
HVS 5a ***589
53Barry's Traverse
VS 4c 3
 North West Face (Lower Section) 
D 14
56InterludeVD *13
VD *4
58GambolVS 4b *2
59Herdwick ButtressVD **30
60IntroductionMVS 4b **70
E1 5b **42
62Ash Tree CornerVS 4c *125
63Ash Tree Slabs Direct
VS 4b **35
64Ash Tree Slabs
VD ***774
65Ash Tree Slabs Variation Super Direct Start
VS 4b 1
VS 4c *33
E1 5b ***204
68Langdale Cowboys
E4 5c *2
69Langdale Cowboys Continuation
E4 6b  
70North-West EliminateHVS 5a **2
71North West Arete
VS 4b ***537
VS 4b ***338
VS 4c **25
74Samaritan Corner
MVS 4c **44
75Girdle Traverse of Lower North-West Face
VS 4c **1
 North West Face (Upper Section) 
77Midnight Movie
E4 6b **7
78Breaking Point
E2 5c *3
79Gimmer String
E1 5b ***229
80Gimmer String Direct Start
81The Crack
VS 4c ***613
82Gimmer High Girdle
E1 5b ** 
83Outside Tokyo/Dight
E1 5b ***62
84Outside Tokyo, Original Finish
E2 5b 3
E1 5b *17
86Dancin' Barefoot
E1 5b 1
87HiatusVS 4b **34
88Hiatus: Bridge's Variation
VS 5a  
HVS 5a **19
90Grooves Superdirect
HVS 5b **3
91Grooves TraverseHVS 5a **4
92Grand FinaleE1 5b ***17
93CarpetbaggerVS 4b **6
94The Dream Merchants
VS 5a *2
95Godiva GrooveVS 4b *9
96Ray Parker Is Innocent
VS 4c *1
97Juniper Buttress
MS *4
98Junipall Gully
M 5
 Pallid Buttress 
E1 5c * 
101NocturneVS 4b **3
102Pallid Slabs
S 4a **6
S 4a *4
104Wall End
MS *2
105Ashen Traverse
VS 4c *1
106The Girdle Traverse
HVS 5a **3
 Unknown location 

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