Gimmer Crag

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 525m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Long routes of all grades on superb rock in a fantastic position. One of the best crags in the Lakes. Classics - Gimmer Chimney(VD), Bracket and Slab(MVS), A,B,C and D Routes(S), Oliversons(VD), Spring Bank(E2), Whits End Direct(E1), F Route(VS), Eastern Hammer(E3), Equus(E2), Kipling Groove(HVS), Ash Tree Slabs(VD), Intern(E1), NW Arete(VS), Asterisk(MVS), Gimmer String(E1), The Crack(VS), Dight(E1), Grand Finale(E1).

Approach notes
There are three main approaches;

From Stickle Barn NT car park take the main Dungeon Ghyll from the North end of the car park. Cross the gill after 500m and then continue for another 1km until you emerge on to an open plateau. Head west and when the path starts to rise again take a faint left track at a large cairn, the crag comes into view.

From the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel take the path towards Raven crag as far as the gate in the new fence. Turn left & follow a slight track below the fence to a stile then zig zag up the scree. Continue in the same direction for 50m until a better defined path leads right then back left across an area of terraces. Continue diagonally left wards, into a ravine. Beyond this either head horizontally to the NW Face or upwards to the SE Face.

Alternatively follow Mickledore until you are below the crag, then head gruellingly upwards.

Langdale (2013),
Out of print: Langdale (1999), Langdale (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Availed of tiersHS *6
3Three Tiers ClimbVS 4c **6
4The Purple EdgeVS 4c **15
5Main Wall ClimbVD **151
6Headwall Left CrackE3 6a  
7Headwall Central CrackHVS 5a *4
8Headwall Right CrackHVS 5a *3
9Grondle GroovesHS *5
11South-East Gully2 15
12Gimmer GorillaE1 5b  
13Bachelor CrackHS 4b **39
14Chimney buttressS **19
15South-East Upper TraverseM 1
16Sleeping SoildersE2 5b  
17South-East Lower TraverseD 2
18Gimmer ChimneyVD ***323
19British BulldogsE5 6b  
20RememberanceHVS 5a **45
21Absence Of MaliceE2 5c *5
22Bracket and Slab ClimbS ***579
23Bracket and Slab Climb Direct startVS 4b 244
24Crow's Nest DirectHVS 5a **57
25Bracket DirectHVS 5a **6
26Green Gambit VariationVS 4b  
28'B' RouteS ***165
29'C' RouteS ***380
30'A' RouteMS ***174
31DiphthongHS 4b *19
32The Crimson PirateVS 4b 9
33'E' RouteHS 4b *31
34Lichen GrooveHS 4b **17
35Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's CrawlVD ***62
36Ee-By-GumE1 5c *1
37'D' RouteS ***519
38Dodgy 'D' VariationHVS 5a 1
39Musgrave's TraverseMVS 4c 1
40Phiz-Holdens ClimbE1 5c *5
41Spring BankE2 5c ***224
42Whit's End DirectE1 5b ***340
43Whit's EndVS 4c **43
44'F' RouteVS 4c ***595
45PoacherE1 5a **57
46Poacher Right-HandE2 5b **2
47Enormous RoomE3 6a *3
48HyphenS 4a *10
49Eastern HammerE3 6a ***79
50EquusE2 5c ***107
51Equus Original Finish VariationE2  
52Kipling GrooveHVS 5a ***584
53Barry's TraverseVS 4c 3
55PreludeD 13
56InterludeVD *12
57CartwheelVD *4
58GambolVS 4b *2
59Herdwick ButtressVD **29
60IntroductionMVS 4b **70
61CrystalE1 5b **40
62Ash Tree CornerVS 4c *123
63Ash Tree Slabs DirectVS 4b **34
64Ash Tree SlabsVD ***711
65Ash Tree Slabs Variation Super Direct StartVS 4b 1
66JoasVS 4c *32
67InternE1 5b ***201
68Langdale CowboysE4 5c *2
69Langdale Cowboys ContinuationE4 6b  
70North-West EliminateHVS 5a **2
71North West AreteVS 4b ***530
72AsteriskVS 4b ***332
73DetourVS 4c **24
74Samaritan CornerMVS 4c **42
75Girdle Traverse of Lower North-West FaceVS 4c **1
77Midnight MovieE4 6b **7
78Breaking PointE2 5c *3
79Gimmer StringE1 5b ***183
80Gimmer String Direct StartHVS 3
81The CrackVS 4c ***598
82Gimmer High GirdleE1 5b ** 
83Outside Tokyo/DightE1 5b ***60
84Outside Tokyo, Original FinishE2 5b 3
85DightE1 5b *17
86Dancin' BarefootE1 5b 1
87HiatusVS 4b **31
88Hiatus: Bridge's VariationVS 5a  
89InertiaHVS 5a **19
90Grooves SuperdirectHVS 5b **3
91Grooves TraverseHVS 5a **4
92Grand FinaleE1 5b ***16
93CarpetbaggerVS 4b **6
94The Dream MerchantsVS 5a *2
95Godiva GrooveVS 4b *9
96Ray Parker Is InnocentVS 4c *1
97Juniper ButtressMS *4
98Junipall GullyM 5
100Hash'n'TrashE1 5c * 
101NocturneVS 4b **3
102Pallid SlabsS 4a **6
103PalefaceS 4a *4
104Wall EndMS *2
105Ashen TraverseVS 4c *1
106The Girdle TraverseHVS 5a **3
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomhull

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Baffled by the star ratings given for routes on this crag by UKC. Why are classics such as 'D' Route and North-west Arete only given one star? They are 3 star routes in the FRCC guide, and I'm sure most who have climbed them would agree with this.
CathS - 25/Jul/11
No, the walk-in isn't a pain, it's a joy!
Rog Wilko - 01/Jun/10
One of the finest crags in the Lakes with loads of classic routes. The walkin is a pain, but if you solo Middlefell Buttress on Raven Crag first (a polished Diff)and then traverse the hillside it makes it much nicer. Go there.
DaveR - 18/Dec/02