Gimmer Crag

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 525m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Long routes of all grades on superb rock in a fantastic position. One of the best crags in the Lakes. Classics - Gimmer Chimney(VD), Bracket and Slab(MVS), A,B,C and D Routes(S), Oliversons(VD), Spring Bank(E2), Whits End Direct(E1), F Route(VS), Eastern Hammer(E3), Equus(E2), Kipling Groove(HVS), Ash Tree Slabs(VD), Intern(E1), NW Arete(VS), Asterisk(MVS), Gimmer String(E1), The Crack(VS), Dight(E1), Grand Finale(E1).

Access notes
There are three main approaches;

From Stickle Barn NT car park take the main Dungeon Ghyll from the North end of the car park. Cross the gill after 500m and then continue for another 1km until you emerge on to an open plateau. Head west and when the path starts to rise again take a faint left track at a large cairn, the crag comes into view.

From the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel take the path towards Raven crag as far as the gate in the new fence. Turn left & follow a slight track below the fence to a stile then zig zag up the scree. Continue in the same direction for 50m until a better defined path leads right then back left across an area of terraces. Continue diagonally left wards, into a ravine. Beyond this either head horizontally to the NW Face or upwards to the SE Face.

Alternatively follow Mickledore until you are below the crag, then head gruellingly upwards.

Guidebooks
Langdale (2013),
Out of print: Langdale (1999), Langdale (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MAIN WALL 
2Availed of tiersHS *
3Three Tiers ClimbVS 4c **
4The Purple EdgeVS 4c **
5Main Wall ClimbVD **
6Headwall Left CrackE3 6a
7Headwall Central CrackHVS 5a *
8Headwall Right CrackHVS 5a *
9Grondle GroovesHS *
 SOUTH EAST FACE 
11South-East Gully2
12Gimmer GorillaE1 5b
13Bachelor CrackHS 4b **
14Chimney buttressS **
15South-East Upper TraverseM
16Sleeping SoildersE2 5b
17South-East Lower TraverseD
18Gimmer ChimneyVD ***
19British BulldogsE5 6b
20RememberanceHVS 5a **
21Absence Of MaliceE2 5c *
22Bracket and Slab ClimbS ***
23Bracket and Slab Climb Direct startVS 4b
24Crow's Nest DirectHVS 5a **
25Bracket DirectHVS 5a **
26Green Gambit VariationVS 4b
 WEST FACE 
28'B' RouteS ***
29'C' RouteS ***
30'A' RouteMS ***
31DiphthongHS 4b *
32The Crimson PirateVS 4b
33'E' RouteHS 4b *
34Lichen GrooveHS 4b **
35Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's CrawlVD ***
36Ee-By-GumE1 5c *
37'D' RouteS ***
38Dodgy 'D' VariationHVS 5a
39Musgrave's TraverseMVS 4c
40Phiz-Holdens ClimbE1 5c *
41Spring BankE2 5c ***
42Whit's End DirectE1 5b ***
43Whit's EndVS 4c **
44'F' RouteVS 4c ***
45PoacherE1 5a **
46Poacher Right-HandE2 5b **
47Enormous RoomE3 6a *
48HyphenS 4a *
49Eastern HammerE3 6a ***
50EquusE2 5c ***
51Equus Original Finish VariationE2
52Kipling GrooveHVS 5a ***
53Barry's TraverseVS 4c
 NORTH WEST FACE (LOWER SECTION) 
55PreludeD
56InterludeVD *
57CartwheelVD *
58GambolVS 4b *
59Herdwick ButtressVD **
60IntroductionMVS 4b **
61CrystalE1 5b **
62Ash Tree CornerVS 4c *
63Ash Tree Slabs DirectVS 4b **
64Ash Tree SlabsVD ***
65Ash Tree Slabs Variation Super Direct StartVS 4b
66JoasVS 4c *
67InternE1 5b ***
68Langdale CowboysE4 5c *
69Langdale Cowboys ContinuationE4 6b
70North-West EliminateHVS 5a **
71North West AreteVS 4b ***
72AsteriskVS 4b ***
73DetourVS 4c **
74Samaritan CornerMVS 4c **
75Girdle Traverse of Lower North-West FaceVS 4c **
 NORTH WEST FACE (UPPER SECTION) 
77Midnight MovieE4 6b **
78Breaking PointE2 5c *
79Gimmer StringE1 5b ***
80Gimmer String Direct StartHVS
81The CrackVS 4c ***
82Gimmer High GirdleE1 5b **
83Outside Tokyo/DightE1 5b ***
84Outside Tokyo, Original FinishE2 5b
85DightE1 5b *
86Dancin' BarefootE1 5b
87HiatusVS 4b **
88Hiatus: Bridge's VariationVS 5a
89InertiaHVS 5a **
90Grooves SuperdirectHVS 5b **
91Grooves TraverseHVS 5a **
92Grand FinaleE1 5b ***
93CarpetbaggerVS 4b **
94The Dream MerchantsVS 5a *
95Godiva GrooveVS 4b *
96Ray Parker Is InnocentVS 4c *
97Juniper ButtressMS *
98Junipall GullyM
 PALLID BUTTRESS 
100Hash'n'TrashE1 5c *
101NocturneVS 4b **
102Pallid SlabsS 4a **
103PalefaceS 4a *
104Wall EndMS *
105Ashen TraverseVS 4c *
106The Girdle TraverseHVS 5a **
 UNKNOWN LOCATION 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomhull

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Baffled by the star ratings given for routes on this crag by UKC. Why are classics such as 'D' Route and North-west Arete only given one star? They are 3 star routes in the FRCC guide, and I'm sure most who have climbed them would agree with this.
CathS - 25/Jul/11
No, the walk-in isn't a pain, it's a joy!
Rog Wilko - 01/Jun/10
One of the finest crags in the Lakes with loads of classic routes. The walkin is a pain, but if you solo Middlefell Buttress on Raven Crag first (a polished Diff)and then traverse the hillside it makes it much nicer. Go there.
DaveR - 18/Dec/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 07/Sep/2014

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