Climbs 58
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 158m a.s.l
Faces S

Who needs euro limestone! Scottish conglomerate is where it's at! © mike71

Crag features

 


South facing conglomerate crag that has come of age with plenty of great sport routes. Now more open due to recent felling and is a sun trap through out the year.

Using the Lavvy at Moy Rock

Can climbers please be sensible and do their latrine somewhere away from the crag as some corners are not very pleasent and there is a build up of toilet paper and faeces. Thanks

Approach notes

Park beside forest entrance keeping vehicular access free. Please keep to main tracks being created by local worthies including the Old Man of Moy who can be seen occasionally with a spade when the conditions are right. Be careful as he can be a grumpy old sod!

PARKING SENSIBLY
There have been problems with cars blocking the gate which is in use by estate vehicles - PLEASE PARK ON THE VERGE TO AVOID CONFLICT WITH THE ESTATE. THANKS

Crux of The Seer is now much easier due to a 'new' hold appearing. 7a+?
Ean T - 28/Jul/12
Have just had a fantastic day here inbetween dropping the kids at school and picking them up again in Aviemore...so good did it two days in a row and completed 12 great routes with more to go at. Fantastic effort to all those involved. N.B. Although realising the development is still in its infancy only two signs at the crag to warn of birds, both with route names to avoid but topos for crag still poor. I and my partner have climbed for a long time but found it difficult to know where the birds are nesting as we could make out three seperate nests of two owls & a raven. Please could either notices at base of routes to be avoided be placed or a plastic not cable tied to the bolts to prevent access untill topos have improved and be uopdated. Would hate to have this location removed by RSPB on grounds of disturbance through lack of info.
Northsea - 05/May/12
Popped past for a look today (no rope or partner), good effort all those involved with the recent work at this crag. Really look forward to getting on it.
Roberttaylor - 04/Jan/12
Moy Rock,Conon Bridge - Pudding Chimney - Severe - 31m Feb-68 First Ascent: Graeme Hunter, QT Chrichton Can you confirm this ascent, or was it done before 1968? Graeme Hunter
GN Hunter - 14/Oct/11
driven past many times and glad i stopped now, brilliant crag, climbing and setting. inspired me to get stronger.
Barber Baz - 12/Aug/11
Getting really popular now. To help reduce erosion please use the low angle approach path that starts from the very end of the steep logging track. This is much better for reducing erosion than the old path. WARNING- Please be very careful when pulling out from the parking due to fast overtaking vehicles on the main road.
nick carter - 10/May/11
One of the best mid grade sport venues in Scotland. The routes are long and well bolted. This crag deserves to be really popular. Big respect to the effort of all involved especially Andy Wilby.
sheppy - 30/Apr/11
Conglomerate!! Who needs Riglos eh. Completely bonkers and very cool. Long and pumpy (especially on the impressive main wall) and quite hard to onsight stuff but no doubt a lot easier for locals who have it wired and know where the "good grips" are. Watch out for a slipper feel to some of the holds.
Fiend - 10/May/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Eldorado6a *35
2Holly Tree Groove6a *98
3Conglomarete4c *106
4HarderthanitlookscrackS 1
 Herring Wall 
6Moy Racer6a *94
7The Herring6c+ **47
8Fighting off the Vultures6a+ **175
9The Old Man of Moy6a+ *194
10Moy Bueno6b **178
11Pebbledash6b **120
12Corvus5c **214
13Scoopy Doo6a+ *58
 Raven's Wall 
15Ravens Nest6a+ **23
16Black Streak6a+ **57
17Pyramid6a+ *30
 Big Flat Wall 
19Match if you are weak6c+ **33
20The Dark Side6c ***88
21Little Teaser6b+ ***217
22Little Squeezer6c+ *10
23Pulling on Pebbles
-
7a+ **70
24The ticks ate all the midgies
-
7a ***103
25Cloak And Dagger
-
6c+ **56
26Kitemark6c **18
27Pudding ChimneyMS 2
28BoggleVS 4b 1
 Seer Wall 
30One man went to Moy...7a **47
31Burning Barrels6c *40
32The Seer7b **71
33The Seer left hand continuation
-
7b 16
34The Fear7b+ 19
35Constant Flux6c+ **28
 Slabs 
37Easy Slab4c 132
38Ankle Biters Delight4c *68
39Ephemeral Artery4c 56
40Venus Return4c **97
 Pebble Walls 
42Moy Soldiers5c 134
43Pebble Party6a *155
44L Plate5a *110

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