Moy Rock (Dingwall)

Climbs 57 – Rocktype Conglomerate – Altitude 158m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

NESTING RESTRICTIONS LIFTED 

As off yesterday evening the young kestrels have fledged and been seen flying around. they may still go back to the nest but all routes on the crag are free for climbing.


South facing conglomerate crag that has come of age with plenty of great sport routes. Now more open due to recent felling and is a sun trap through out the year.


THERE HAVE BEEN PROBLEMS WITH CARS BLOCKING THE ENTRANCE GATE - PLEASE PARK ON THE VERGE TOO AVOID CONFLICT WITH THE ESTATE. THANKS


Ravens successfully reared three young this year. (Early June 2015)

Kestrels fledged 4 or 5 young (late June 2015)

Information on nesting birds will be put on site and on this web page each year when nesting occurs so keep checking before going to the crag during the nesting period from early February till early June to get the latest information.

ALSO CHECK MCofS WEBSITE FOR MORE INFO


A popular sports crag with further routes being added all the time. There are trad routes if you are brave and boulders and bouldering walls about but be prepared for occasional popping holds.


Please avoid climbing routes with tape on the lower bolts as they are still to be climbed after bolting by originators as the crag continues to be developed. Also other sectors are being developed so please leave any insitu gear and ropes.


Most importantly please record your thoughts on grades for these routes for updates to the new Sport Guide for Scotland just out. Cheers

Access notes

Park beside forest entrance keeping vehicular access free. Please keep to main tracks being created by local worthies including the Old Man of Moy who can be seen occasionally with a spade when the conditions are right. Be careful as he can be a grumpy old sod!

Guidebooks
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ (2015), Northern Highlands Central (2006),
Out of print: 7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012), Northern Highlands Vol. 2 (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Eldorado6a *18
2Holly Tree Groove6a *65
3Conglomarete4c *60
4HarderthanitlookscrackS  
 HERRING WALL  
6Moy Racer6a *56
7The Herring6c+ **33
8Fighting off the Vultures6a+ **98
9The Old Man of Moy6a+ *127
10Moy Bueno6b **121
11Pebbledash6b **78
12Corvus5c **138
13Scoopy Doo6a+ *38
 RAVEN'S WALL  
15Ravens Nest6a+ **15
16Black Streak6a+ **40
17Pyramid6a+ *23
 BIG FLAT WALL  
19Match if you are weak6c+ **26
20The Dark Side6c ***71
21Little Teaser6b+ ***159
22Pulling on Pebbles7a+ **56
23The ticks ate all the midgies7a ***73
24Cloak And Dagger6c+ **45
25Kitemark6c **8
26Pudding ChimneyMS 1
27BoggleVS 4b 1
 SEER WALL  
29One man went to Moy...7a **34
30Burning Barrels6c *30
31The Seer7b **56
32The Seer left hand continuation7b 12
33The Fear7b+ 16
34Constant Flux6c+ **23
 SLABS  
36Easy Slab4c 106
37Ankle Biters Delight4c *47
38Ephemeral Artery4c 39
39Venus Return4c **66
 PEBBLE WALLS  
41Moy Soldiers5c 94
42Pebble Party6a *119
43L Plate5a *72
44The Fly6a+ **106
45Magnifascent6a+ 14
46MagnificrackE3 5b 3
 FORBIDDEN WALL  
48Clansmen Wall TraverseV5 6b * 
49Silver Fox7a *22
50The Clansman7a+ *14
51Round the Bend6a *14
52Hidden World6a+ *14
53Flaky Start to Hidden World6a 4
54Forbidden Forest7a 9
55It's rock Jim, but not as we know it.6c+ 17
56Collywobbles7a 1
57Robert the Bruce's Spider6a **51
58Don't Look Down in Anger6a+ *35
59The Curse of the Strong6b *27
60Summer Solstice6a+ *23
61'Ave it!7b **18
62I did it Moy Way6b+ *16
63Red Setter6a 10
 ROADSIDE BOULDER  
65East Side Story R to LTraverseV3 3
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lone Rider

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Found at Moy Rock Monday 15th June pair of rock boots. Get in touch with details for return if their yours.
Lone Rider - 16/Jun/15
The information is correct at the top of the page and will be updated when there is any change. Should be clear by mid June.
Lone Rider - 05/May/15
I was thinking of heading up to Moy Rock for the first time this weekend. Does anyone know if the Pine Martens and Kestrels are still nesting at the crag?
Andrew23 - 01/May/15
Crux of The Seer is now much easier due to a 'new' hold appearing. 7a+?
Ean T - 28/Jul/12
Have just had a fantastic day here inbetween dropping the kids at school and picking them up again in Aviemore...so good did it two days in a row and completed 12 great routes with more to go at. Fantastic effort to all those involved. N.B. Although realising the development is still in its infancy only two signs at the crag to warn of birds, both with route names to avoid but topos for crag still poor. I and my partner have climbed for a long time but found it difficult to know where the birds are nesting as we could make out three seperate nests of two owls & a raven. Please could either notices at base of routes to be avoided be placed or a plastic not cable tied to the bolts to prevent access untill topos have improved and be uopdated. Would hate to have this location removed by RSPB on grounds of disturbance through lack of info.
Northsea - 05/May/12
Popped past for a look today (no rope or partner), good effort all those involved with the recent work at this crag. Really look forward to getting on it.
Roberttaylor - 04/Jan/12
Moy Rock,Conon Bridge - Pudding Chimney - Severe - 31m Feb-68 First Ascent: Graeme Hunter, QT Chrichton Can you confirm this ascent, or was it done before 1968? Graeme Hunter
GN Hunter - 14/Oct/11
driven past many times and glad i stopped now, brilliant crag, climbing and setting. inspired me to get stronger.
Barber Baz - 12/Aug/11
Getting really popular now. To help reduce erosion please use the low angle approach path that starts from the very end of the steep logging track. This is much better for reducing erosion than the old path. WARNING- Please be very careful when pulling out from the parking due to fast overtaking vehicles on the main road.
nick carter - 10/May/11
One of the best mid grade sport venues in Scotland. The routes are long and well bolted. This crag deserves to be really popular. Big respect to the effort of all involved especially Andy Wilby.
sheppy - 30/Apr/11
Conglomerate!! Who needs Riglos eh. Completely bonkers and very cool. Long and pumpy (especially on the impressive main wall) and quite hard to onsight stuff but no doubt a lot easier for locals who have it wired and know where the "good grips" are. Watch out for a slipper feel to some of the holds.
Fiend - 10/May/10