Climbs 193
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces all

Guadalest - Sector del Castillo © Tom Phillips

Crag features

The rocky citadel of Guadalest has always been known as a major tourist trap for coach trips from the coast. In recent years the extensive walls have been developed with a selection of excellent routes across the grades, on some unique rock formations.

The routes listed here are well-bolted sport routes - a good supply of quick-draws and a 60m rope should be adequate for the majority of them. There are some multi-pitch routes too, offering a good a introduction to that style of climbing. There is also the occasional longer pitch (30m+) in amongst the rest, though mid-height lower-offs are usually installed. There isn't too much in the way of harder climbing, as most of the faces are slabby. There are some older trad routes scattered amongst the sporty stuff; we haven't listed these here. In the early days of development there were sporadic incidents of people being asked to leave the newly developed climbs on the walls below the swimming pool, on the Sector Penya l'Alcalà. The place is well and truly open for business now and it can get very busy.

Set at 600m, Guadalest can be cold in the winter - snow is not unheard of. In the summer, the sun can be followed or avoided depending on how hot it is. There is also some shade to be had from the trees when it gets too hot. The town and its trappings is worth a look if it is too hot to climb.

Good topo here:

Approach notes

Guadalest is well-signed since it is a popular tourist destination. The quickest approach is to take the good CV70 from one of the Benidorm junctions inland past Polop (and Vall de Guadar and the Ponoch). It can also be reached from Altea via Callosa but the roads aren't as good. The Castle and Boulder crags are approached from one of the main coach car parks. For the main Penya l'Alcalà and Penya Maura crags, on a right-hand bend in town, turn sharp left onto a steep road signed to 'Piscine Municipal' and drop down, past the swimming pool, to a large parking area by a building directly below the main crag. More details are given on the crag pages.


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)
Guadalest (2006)
Great crag, lovely rock, varied routes. We experienced no access problems. Perfect location
beefyhanes - 17/Jan/13
There are many new climbs here that have been added over the last few years. It is now a great venue with very easy access. Full details will appear in the 2013 Rockfax, but should you need a topo in the meantime email the crag moderator
Tom Phillips - 29/Nov/12
New routes are being checked an added every week - soon I will re-group climbs into the correct butresses and remove incorrect routes, but please add any missing routes or enter notes on any info you think is incorrect. Thanks
Tom Phillips - 07/Mar/12
The route list is seriously outdated and needs attention.
Pencarth - 07/Mar/12
No access issues a great place to go to escape the sun if too hot. Grading is a bit hit and miss and some of the rock is quite friabble.Sector Pyramid seems easy for grades in guide, while Sector Castillo seems hard than guide, though some holds may be missing since guide was written. Very quite only saw two other climbers and we went there two days.
krikoman - 12/Oct/09
No access issues, lots of Spanish climbers there when we were (Sunday) great place to go to escape sun if too hot.
krikoman - 12/Oct/09
Access issues seem to be OK at the moment, The Spanish chap who has in the past asked people to leave is called "Tubo" and has no right to do so. But if in doubt climb on the Sector Penya Maura (most Easterly section)
Tom Phillips - 24/Feb/09
We were also told to leave the crag due to conservation. Apparently not true (you should note the amount of rubbish nearby)its possibly a grudge against rockfax not talking to the locals.
cwarby - 10/Nov/07
We were asked to leave this crag (Oct 07) by a Spanish chap who claimed that 'alpinism' was forbidden, due to the presence of rare plants on the crags. Nothing about this in the guidebooks, but he seemed genuine.
geckoid - 23/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2La Broca de Sant Antoni6a 1
3Dissabtes de plutja6a 1
4La rabosa curiosa6a+ 1
5Al temps que solsia6a 1
6Lespero del Porro6a  
7Savina bonsai6a 4
8Mustelid intripid6b *2
9A Pel Tercer Garrofa5c 5
10Al Azraq6a 4
11Teucrium Buxifolium6a  
12Soliquer critdaner6a+  
14El Forat6a 5
15Quin sol fa5c 11
16El badall6a 6
17Temps de joc5a 13
19Borrosca de neu6a *39
20Neu ne Marc5a *71
21Men isc cascat5a **126
22Baix la cova baix de Llus5a *41
23Pajarito6b+ **13
24Carabassa t'han donat5c **66
25Sang trait6a **48
26Contes i Llegendes6b **28
27La Senda del parabolt6c **8
28¿?6c+ *1
 Sector Everest 
30Mare mevia6b 1
31Aitana6a+ 8
32Sargantana rocallera6b 12
33Temporal de Llevant6a+ 4
34Brosseta de Penya6a+ 6
35La Cango del Caro6a 17
36Arros amb Costra5c 39
37M'han Llevat Mosquetons6b 32
38Glopet de Mel5c 31
39Turismo Rural6a+ 16
40Xe Que Bo!6a 6
 Sector Pyramid 
42La Placa Ataka5c *39
43La Nosta terra6a+ 20
44El Meucor esta fotut4c 32
45Respeta L'Entorn5c *47
46Retovato Glutamato6a *38
47Al mar quina castanya6a+ *35
48L'Hedra5c *40
49La panxa s'enganxa6a+ *15
 Sector l'Orgue 
51Badallant6a * 
52Hores bruixes6b **11
53l'Orgue6a+ **19
54Desapinant-lo6c * 
 Penya L'Alcala 
 Sector Izquierdo 
58Vía clásica5c  
59Maulets a la Lluita6a **11
60Endevant6a **14
61Coses de Tubo6a+ **5
62Marina Baixa6b **4
 Sector Central 
64Malvinas5c 3
65Gibraltar6a 6
66Irlanda del Norte6a 7
67Electricas6c ** 
68Komerokas6c ** 
69Son Goku6c ***3
70Estética6c **3
71Cariat de Güelo6b+ **8
72L'Espill o Llibre6a+ ***24
73Tirant lo Blanc5c *43
74La disputa de l'ase6a+ *17
75Fuig d'Aci6b+ 6
76Contaminació britànica6c+ *4
77Territorios Ocupados7a *4
78La Muixeranga (P1)6a 38
79L'Ham de foc lo blanc (P1)5c 14
80Directa i Au (P1)5a *32
81La Diagonal4a  
82Carretera ocultaana5a  
83Festa d'Estiu5c ***33
84Xirimita5c ***2
85Tabalet6a ***22
86La Muixeranga (P2)5c ***29
87L'Ham de foc lo blanc (P2)6a **12
88Directa i Au6b+ ***16
89Tigre de Papel4a  
90Arc de Sant Marti5c **32
91Cuerpo Escombro5a *1
92Del Tossal a l'hort6a **22
93Man Hincha El Morro6b * 
94No ho se5c **33
95Parapa Jote6b *1
96Obrint pas6a *17
97Avaratar6b *7
98No em Tokeu els Ous6a **28
99L'Escorxador de víes6b ***28
 Sector Derecho 
101La lluna de Sant Joan5c **47
102Eclipsi6a+ *10
103Pericana Sense Gana6b **12
104El principi i el fi6a+ **8
105Llums i sombres6a+ **15
106Erotika6a+ ***25
107Pels Pels6a+ *12
108Cavernícola6a **6
109Cassalla6c *5
110Oli d'oliva6c+ 6
111Orxata de Xufa6a **19
112Torró de Xixona6a+ **13
113La pedra ibérica5c ***46
114Quebrantadedos6a+ *3
115Klandestina5c *3
116Pilart6a *14
117Depredació urbanística6b **15
118Prou d'ocupació6a **19
119Dieta mediterránea5c **27
120L.S.D.6a **1
 Sector Iniciacion 
122Si te Caes te lo Merecures4c 18
123Buscando los pitufos4a *47
124Pa pekes4c *50
125Parisol4c *47
126Andrea, qué palo4c *40
127Penya Right Six6a+ 38
128Penya Right Seven6a 30
129Penya Right Eight5c 39
130Penya Right Nine5c 41
 Sector pas de la Rabossa 
132Cascahuesos6a *7
133Guadalepina6b+ **5
134Sueño del Pitu7a **5
135Soñaba con el Patata7a+ **7
136Arroz con feixol7a+ **3
137Trencapedres7b *3
138Masacre subcutanea7c *2
139Lección aprendida6a 22
140Aprendiendo a Escalar4c 12
141Lagartija pija5c 28
142A tomar por tubo6a *26
143Poda legal6a+ *17
144Gipipollas6b *8
145L'avinagrá6b *4
146L'insoportable levetat del ser6c *2
147Brujos y diablos7a * 
148Sentido común7a+ *3
149Kale Borroka6c+ 2
150La Bruja Piruja7a+ 2
151Subiendo al frenopático6c+ 2
152L'home Mistol6b+ 2
153Hombre Alcanfor6b 1
 Penya Maura 
 Sector Iniciación 
156Sodoma3+ 11
157Gomorra3+ 16
158Pedorra4a 15
159Ésta También Se Mueve3+ *22
160Solo la del cordino4a *37
161Escrototeame6a 37
162La Abeja Nahia5a 29
163La soplá5c 24
 Cara Oeste 
165Coñocabra6b+ 8
166Cornicabra5c *52
167Phillip El Grande6b+ *2
168Margallo6a+ **55
169Intolerancia 07a *9
170Garrofer6a+ **32
171Ron con porros6b **10
172Hay que darlo to7b+ ** 
173Maura6b **3
174Punta La Polla Malotta7b **1
175Pais Valencia6c+ *3
176La Perla6b *11
177Flor d'Ametler6c **6
178Primavera6b+ **10
179Makarrereta6b **15
180Inevitable6b+ **8
181Okupa6b **13
182Jana6a **55
183Jana Right6b+ *5
184Slanting crack
HS 4b ***3
 Cara Sur 
186Ester's ChimneyS 4a ***21
187Amber Lights
S 4b **9
188Rock Star6b+ **1
189Roller Coaster6a+ **1
190Electric Man6a *1
191Way Out6a 1
192Fences5c 2
193Outside Edge
HS 4b **5

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Phillips