Climbs 193
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces all

Guadalest - Sector del Castillo © Tom Phillips

Crag features

The rocky citadel of Guadalest has always been known as a major tourist trap for coach trips from the coast. In recent years the extensive walls have been developed with a selection of excellent routes across the grades, on some unique rock formations.

The routes listed here are well-bolted sport routes - a good supply of quick-draws and a 60m rope should be adequate for the majority of them. There are some multi-pitch routes too, offering a good a introduction to that style of climbing. There is also the occasional longer pitch (30m+) in amongst the rest, though mid-height lower-offs are usually installed. There isn't too much in the way of harder climbing, as most of the faces are slabby. There are some older trad routes scattered amongst the sporty stuff; we haven't listed these here. In the early days of development there were sporadic incidents of people being asked to leave the newly developed climbs on the walls below the swimming pool, on the Sector Penya l'Alcalà. The place is well and truly open for business now and it can get very busy.

Set at 600m, Guadalest can be cold in the winter - snow is not unheard of. In the summer, the sun can be followed or avoided depending on how hot it is. There is also some shade to be had from the trees when it gets too hot. The town and its trappings is worth a look if it is too hot to climb.

Good topo here:

http://www.destinoguadalest.com/archivos/Escalada%20en%20Guadalest.pdf

Approach notes

Guadalest is well-signed since it is a popular tourist destination. The quickest approach is to take the good CV70 from one of the Benidorm junctions inland past Polop (and Vall de Guadar and the Ponoch). It can also be reached from Altea via Callosa but the roads aren't as good. The Castle and Boulder crags are approached from one of the main coach car parks. For the main Penya l'Alcalà and Penya Maura crags, on a right-hand bend in town, turn sharp left onto a steep road signed to 'Piscine Municipal' and drop down, past the swimming pool, to a large parking area by a building directly below the main crag. More details are given on the crag pages.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)
Guadalest (2006)
Great crag, lovely rock, varied routes. We experienced no access problems. Perfect location
beefyhanes - 17/Jan/13
There are many new climbs here that have been added over the last few years. It is now a great venue with very easy access. Full details will appear in the 2013 Rockfax, but should you need a topo in the meantime email the crag moderator tom@pcoms.com
Tom Phillips - 29/Nov/12
New routes are being checked an added every week - soon I will re-group climbs into the correct butresses and remove incorrect routes, but please add any missing routes or enter notes on any info you think is incorrect. Thanks
Tom Phillips - 07/Mar/12
The route list is seriously outdated and needs attention.
Pencarth - 07/Mar/12
No access issues a great place to go to escape the sun if too hot. Grading is a bit hit and miss and some of the rock is quite friabble.Sector Pyramid seems easy for grades in guide, while Sector Castillo seems hard than guide, though some holds may be missing since guide was written. Very quite only saw two other climbers and we went there two days.
krikoman - 12/Oct/09
No access issues, lots of Spanish climbers there when we were (Sunday) great place to go to escape sun if too hot.
krikoman - 12/Oct/09
Access issues seem to be OK at the moment, The Spanish chap who has in the past asked people to leave is called "Tubo" and has no right to do so. But if in doubt climb on the Sector Penya Maura (most Easterly section)
Tom Phillips - 24/Feb/09
We were also told to leave the crag due to conservation. Apparently not true (you should note the amount of rubbish nearby)its possibly a grudge against rockfax not talking to the locals.
cwarby - 10/Nov/07
We were asked to leave this crag (Oct 07) by a Spanish chap who claimed that 'alpinism' was forbidden, due to the presence of rare plants on the crags. Nothing about this in the guidebooks, but he seemed genuine.
geckoid - 23/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Zoo 
2La Broca de Sant Antoni6a 2
3Dissabtes de plutja6a 1
4La rabosa curiosa6a+ 1
5Al temps que solsia6a 1
6Lespero del Porro6a  
7Savina bonsai6a 5
8Mustelid intripid6b *3
9A Pel Tercer Garrofa5c 6
10Al Azraq6a 4
11Teucrium Buxifolium6a 1
12Soliquer critdaner6a+  
13L'Agulla6a  
14El Forat6a 5
15Quin sol fa5c 11
16El badall6a 6
17Temps de joc5a 13
 Castillo 
19Borrosca de neu6a *40
20Neu ne Marc5a *72
21Men isc cascat5a **129
22Baix la cova baix de Llus5a *43
23Pajarito6b+ **15
24Carabassa t'han donat5c **69
25Sang trait6a **52
26Contes i Llegendes6b **34
27La Senda del parabolt6c **10
28¿?6c+ *1
 Sector Everest 
30Mare mevia6b 1
31Aitana6a+ 8
32Sargantana rocallera6b 12
33Temporal de Llevant6a+ 4
34Brosseta de Penya6a+ 6
35La Cango del Caro6a 18
36Arros amb Costra5c 39
37M'han Llevat Mosquetons6b 34
38Glopet de Mel5c 33
39Turismo Rural6a+ 16
40Xe Que Bo!6a 6
 Sector Pyramid 
42La Placa Ataka5c *39
43La Nosta terra6a+ 21
44El Meucor esta fotut4c 34
45Respeta L'Entorn5c *49
46Retovato Glutamato6a *41
47Al mar quina castanya6a+ *38
48L'Hedra5c *40
49La panxa s'enganxa6a+ *17
 Sector l'Orgue 
51Badallant6a *3
52Hores bruixes6b **12
53l'Orgue6a+ **24
54Desapinant-lo6c * 
55L'Aixmeneta?  
 Penya L'Alcala 
 Sector Izquierdo 
58Vía clásica5c  
59Maulets a la Lluita6a **16
60Endevant6a **21
61Coses de Tubo6a+ **6
62Marina Baixa6b **7
 Sector Central 
64Malvinas5c 3
65Gibraltar6a 6
66Irlanda del Norte6a 7
67Electricas6c ** 
68Komerokas6c ** 
69Son Goku6c ***6
70Estética6c **4
71Cariat de Güelo6b+ **12
72L'Espill o Llibre6a+ ***34
73Tirant lo Blanc5c *44
74La disputa de l'ase6a+ *19
75Fuig d'Aci6b+ 7
76Contaminació britànica6c+ *4
77Territorios Ocupados7a *6
78La Muixeranga (P1)6a 48
79L'Ham de foc lo blanc (P1)5c 20
80Directa i Au (P1)5a *38
81La Diagonal4a  
82Carretera ocultaana5a  
83Festa d'Estiu5c ***35
84Xirimita5c ***4
85Tabalet6a ***27
86La Muixeranga (P2)5c ***39
87L'Ham de foc lo blanc (P2)6a **13
88Directa i Au6b+ ***16
89Tigre de Papel4a  
90Arc de Sant Marti5c **38
91Cuerpo Escombro5a *3
92Del Tossal a l'hort6a **24
93Man Hincha El Morro6b * 
94No ho se5c **37
95Parapa Jote6b *2
96Obrint pas6a *20
97Avaratar6b *7
98No em Tokeu els Ous6a **32
99L'Escorxador de víes6b ***38
 Sector Derecho 
101La lluna de Sant Joan5c **51
102Eclipsi6a+ *12
103Pericana Sense Gana6b **14
104El principi i el fi6a+ **10
105Llums i sombres6a+ **19
106Erotika6a+ ***35
107Pels Pels6a+ *13
108Cavernícola6a **8
109Cassalla6c *5
110Oli d'oliva6c+ 6
111Orxata de Xufa6a **24
112Torró de Xixona6a+ **18
113La pedra ibérica5c ***52
114Quebrantadedos6a+ *4
115Klandestina5c *3
116Pilart6a *17
117Depredació urbanística6b **27
118Prou d'ocupació6a **28
119Dieta mediterránea5c **34
120L.S.D.6a **2
 Sector Iniciacion 
122Si te Caes te lo Merecures4c 20
123Buscando los pitufos4a *49
124Pa pekes4c *51
125Parisol4c *48
126Andrea, qué palo4c *42
 Sector pas de la Rabossa 
128Cascahuesos6a *7
129Guadalepina6b+ **5
130Sueño del Pitu7a **6
131Soñaba con el Patata7a+ **8
132Arroz con feixol7a+ **3
133Trencapedres7b *3
134Masacre subcutanea7c *2
135Lección aprendida6a 23
136Aprendiendo a Escalar4c 12
137Lagartija pija5c 32
138A tomar por tubo6a *30
139Poda legal6a+ *22
140Gipipollas6b *11
141L'avinagrá6b *4
142L'insoportable levetat del ser6c *2
143Brujos y diablos7a * 
144Sentido común7a+ *3
145Kale Borroka6c+ 2
146La Bruja Piruja7a+ 2
147Subiendo al frenopático6c+ 2
148L'home Mistol6b+ 2
149Hombre Alcanfor6b 1
 Penya Maura 
 Sector Iniciación 
152Sodoma3+ 15
153Gomorra3+ 20
154Pedorra4a 18
155Ésta También Se Mueve3+ *26
156Solo la del cordino4a *43
157Escrototeame6a 40
158La Abeja Nahia5a 35
159La soplá5c 28
 Cara Oeste 
161Coñocabra6b+ 9
162Cornicabra5c *61
163Phillip El Grande6b+ *3
164Margallo6a+ **62
165Intolerancia 07a *10
166Garrofer6a+ **36
167Ron con porros6b **14
168Hay que darlo to7b+ ** 
169Maura6b **6
170Punta La Polla Malotta7b **1
171Pais Valencia6c+ *3
172La Perla6b *13
173Flor d'Ametler6c **6
174Primavera6b+ **13
175Makarrereta6b **22
176Inevitable6b+ **13
177Okupa6b **20
178Jana6a **62
179Jana Right6b+ *6
180Slanting crack
-
HS 4b ***3
 Cara Sur 
182Ester's ChimneyS 4a ***22
183Amber Lights
-
S 4b **10
184Rock Star6b+ **1
185Penya Right Six6a+ 44
186Penya Right Seven6a 33
187Penya Right Eight5c 43
188Penya Right Nine5c 45
189Roller Coaster6a+ **1
190Electric Man6a *1
191Way Out6a 1
192Fences5c 2
193Outside Edge
-
HS 4b **5

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