Climbs 85
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 202m a.s.l
Faces SW

Helter Skelter HVS, Craig a' Barns © Grahame N

Crag features

Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes

Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Myopics Buttress 
2Myopic's Corner
HVS 5a *18
3Direct Finish to Myopic's CornerE2 5c * 
4Unknown7a 10
5The Chopping Block
7b **104
6The Vibes
7c **20
7Vibes Right hand finish7c  
8Vibe Heads7b+ ***6
9Bad Vibes7c+ **7
10Granola Head
7c *24
11Nameless?6c+ 2
 Ivy Buttress 
13The Bashful Groove
E2 5b  
E3 6a *15
E5 6b *6
16Sideline Direct (The Sharp End)E6 7a *3
17Stolen Ivy
E7 6c * 
18Hot TipsE5 6c **13
19Cold Tips
E5 6c * 
20For Your Own Pleasure
E4 6a  
21Ivy CrackVS 4c *363
22Poison Ivy (Without Arete Start)VS 5a *133
23Poison IvyE1 5b *30
24Poison Arete
E3 5c 6
25Consolation CornerVD *285
 Upper Buttress 
27Left-Hand Edge
HVS 4c 8
28Left-Hand Crack
E2 5c **93
29Right-Hand Crack
VS 5a 45
30Mottled Rib
VD *35
31Hogg's HindquartersVD **190
32The Trap
HVS 5b 20
 Main Cliff, Left Section 
34AnonD 106
35Kestrel CrackS *662
36Kestrel Crack Variation Finish I
HVS 5a *30
37Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II
VS 5a 44
38Katie Morag's First StepsMVS 4b 95
39Twisted RibVD *310
E2 8
41Beech WallHS **506
42Piker's Progress
VS 5a *60
43Piker's Variation
HVS 5a 7
44Piker's Progress Direct
HVS 5a *169
45The Way Through
E2 5b **123
46The Porker
E3 5b 5
47The GrooveVS 5a ***583
48The Rut
VS 5a **422
VS 5a **265
E2 5c *139
51Wriggle Direct
HVS 5a 28
52Scram '79
E4 5c *6
53Holly Tree GrooveVD **603
54Blast Off
HVS 5b * 
55Recess RouteVD 180
56The CreepS *118
VS 5a *78
58Nicotine Rush
E2 5b *6
E2 5c *2
60The Excuse
E2 6a *6
61Cuticle CreekMVS 42
62Cuticle CrackS **848
63Airy Arete
VS 4c 57
64The Crescent
VD *38
65Hairy GullyM 62
 Main Cliff, Right Section 
67Bollard ButtressMS 195
68Bollard Buttress DirectHS *215
69SpringboardHVS 5a **149
70Springboard Direct VariationE3 5c **24
71Live Wire
E5 6a 7
D 1
73Helter Skelter
HVS 5a 10
74The ChuteVS 5a *124
75Space Scuttle
E1 5b *22
HVS 4c *12
77The EndVS 5a, 4c **487
78Barefoot/BeginningE2 5c **83
79Terminal ButtressHS *199
80Crash Test Dummies
E3 5c 28
81The Duel Variation
E4 6a **7
82The Mound of Venus
E2 5c 4
83Carpet Beater
HVS 5a *42
VD 14
VS 4b *109
VS 4c 2
87Girdle TraverseVS 4c 6
88"S" CrackS 8
89Un-namedS 3
90Twisted Rib (Direct Finish)VS 4c *2

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