Dunkeld, Craig a Barns

Climbs 77 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes
Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Highland Outcrops (1998), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Myopic's CornerHVS 5a *17
2Direct Finish to Myopic's CornerE2 5c * 
3Unknown7a 8
4The Chopping Block7b **78
5The Vibes7c **17
6Granola Head7c *23
7Nameless?6c+ 2
8PsoriasisE3 6a *14
9SidelineE5 6b *6
10Sideline Direct (Sharp End)E6 7a *3
11Hot TipsE5 6c **13
12Cold TipsE5 6c * 
13Ivy CrackVS 4c *317
14Poison Ivy (not including the arÍte start)VS 5a *111
15Poison Ivy (including the arete start)E1 5b *30
16Poison AreteE4 5c 7
17Consolation CornerVD *267
18Left-Hand EdgeHVS 4c 7
19Left-Hand CrackE2 5c **71
20Right-Hand CrackVS 5a 39
21Mottled RibVD *34
22Hogg's HindquartersVD **164
23The TrapHVS 5b 15
24AnonD 91
25Kestrel CrackS *598
26Kestrel Crack Variation Finish IHVS 5a *26
27Kestrel Crack Variation Finish IIVS 5a 42
28Katie Morag's First StepsMVS 4b 85
29Twisted RibVD *280
30MonopodE2 8
31Beech WallHS **453
32The Way ThroughE2 5b **99
33The PorkerE3 5b 4
34Piker's ProgressVS 5a *53
35Piker's Progress DirectHVS 5a *136
36The GrooveVS 5a ***495
37The RutVS 5a **357
38WriggleVS 5a **233
39TwilightE2 5c *116
40Piker's VariationHVS 5a 6
41Wriggle DirectHVS 5a 27
42Scram '79E4 5c *6
43Holly Tree GrooveVD **534
44Recess RouteVD 165
45The CreepS *101
46DynamoVS 5a *68
47Nicotine RushE2 5b *4
48TurboE2 5c *2
49The ExcuseE2 6a *5
50Cuticle CreekMVS 38
51Cuticle CrackS **743
52Airy AreteVS 4c 48
53The CrescentVD *36
54Hairy GullyM 62
55Bollard ButtressMS 174
56Bollard Buttress DirectHS *197
57SpringboardHVS 5a **123
58Springboard Direct VariationE3 5c **22
59Live WireE5 6a 6
60Helter SkelterHVS 5a 10
61The ChuteVS 5a *112
62Space ScuttleE1 5b *22
63PopHVS 4c *12
64The EndVS 5a, 4c **414
65Barefoot/BeginningE2 5c **63
66Terminal ButtressHS *186
67Crash Test DummiesE3 5c 25
68The Duel VariationE4 6a **6
69The Mound of VenusE2 5c 3
70Carpet BeaterHVS 5a *38
71EschebaumVD 14
72SpirochaeteVS 4b *101
73GitanesVS 4c 2
74Girdle TraverseVS 4c 5
75"S" CrackS 8
76Un-namedS 3
77Vibe Heads7b+ 3
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03