Climbs 86
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 202m a.s.l
Faces SW

Helter Skelter HVS, Craig a' Barns © Grahame N

Crag features

Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes

Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Myopics Buttress 
2Myopic's Corner
HVS 5a *18
3Direct Finish to Myopic's CornerE2 5c * 
4Unknown7a 10
5The Chopping Block
7b **110
6Shimmy7c * 
7The Vibes
7c **20
8Vibes Right hand finish7c  
9Vibe Heads7b+ ***9
10Bad Vibes7c+ **8
11Granola Head
7c *24
12Nameless?6c+ 2
 Ivy Buttress 
14The Bashful Groove
E2 5b  
E3 6a *15
E5 6b *6
17Sideline Direct (The Sharp End)E6 7a *3
18Stolen Ivy
E7 6c * 
19Hot TipsE5 6c **13
20Cold Tips
E5 6c * 
21For Your Own Pleasure
E4 6a  
22Ivy CrackVS 4c *370
23Poison Ivy (Without Arete Start)VS 5a *135
24Poison IvyE1 5b *30
25Poison Arete
E3 5c 6
26Consolation CornerVD *288
 Upper Buttress 
28Left-Hand Edge
HVS 4c 8
29Left-Hand Crack
E2 5c **94
30Right-Hand Crack
VS 5a 46
31Mottled Rib
VD *35
32Hogg's HindquartersVD **190
33The Trap
HVS 5b 20
 Main Cliff, Left Section 
35AnonD 109
36Kestrel CrackS *673
37Kestrel Crack Variation Finish I
HVS 5a *31
38Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II
VS 5a 44
39Katie Morag's First StepsMVS 4b 95
40Twisted RibVD *314
E2 8
42Beech WallHS **517
43Piker's Progress
VS 5a *59
44Piker's Variation
HVS 5a 7
45Piker's Progress Direct
HVS 5a *171
46The Way Through
E2 5b **128
47The Porker
E3 5b 5
48The GrooveVS 5a ***589
49The Rut
VS 5a **435
VS 5a **266
E2 5c *142
52Wriggle Direct
HVS 5a 29
53Scram '79
E4 5c *6
54Holly Tree GrooveVD **613
55Blast Off
HVS 5b * 
56Recess RouteVD 186
57The CreepS *118
VS 5a *81
59Nicotine Rush
E2 5b *6
E2 5c *2
61The Excuse
E2 6a *6
62Cuticle CreekMVS 43
63Cuticle CrackS **863
64Airy Arete
VS 4c 58
65The Crescent
VD *38
66Hairy GullyM 63
 Main Cliff, Right Section 
68Bollard ButtressMS 198
69Bollard Buttress DirectHS *219
70SpringboardHVS 5a **150
71Springboard Direct VariationE3 5c **24
72Live Wire
E5 6a 7
D 1
74Helter Skelter
HVS 5a 10
75The ChuteVS 5a *126
76Space Scuttle
E1 5b *22
HVS 4c *12
78The EndVS 5a, 4c **495
79Barefoot/BeginningE2 5c **83
80Terminal ButtressHS *200
81Crash Test Dummies
E3 5c 28
82The Duel Variation
E4 6a **7
83The Mound of Venus
E2 5c 4
84Carpet Beater
HVS 5a *42
VD 14
VS 4b *109
VS 4c 2
88Girdle TraverseVS 4c 6
89"S" CrackS 8
90Un-namedS 3
91Twisted Rib (Direct Finish)VS 4c *2

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