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Logbooks & Crags

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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref NO 009430 (OS Landranger #53,52)

Dunkeld, Craig a Barns

Perthshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 76 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Weather forecast

Today	Thu	Fri	Sat	Sun

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Cairngorms & Monadhliath – Met Office: East Highlands

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Highland Outcrops (1998), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

1	Myopic's Corner	HVS 5a *	13
2	Direct Finish to Myopic's Corner	E2 5c *
3	The Chopping Block	7b **	61
4	The Vibes	7c **	16
5	Granola Head	7c *	18
6	Nameless?	6c+	2
7	Psoriasis	E3 6a *	13
8	Sideline	E5 6b *	5
9	Sideline Direct (Sharp End)	E6 7a *	3
10	Hot Tips	E5 6c **	12
11	Cold Tips	E5 6c *
12	Ivy Crack	VS 4c *	243
13	Poison Ivy (not including the arête start)	VS 5a *	81
14	Poison Ivy (including the arete start)	E1 5b *	16
15	Poison Arete	E4 5c	6
16	Consolation Corner	VD *	202
17	Left-Hand Edge	HVS 4c	7
18	Left-Hand Crack	E2 5c **	58
19	Right-Hand Crack	VS 5a	32
20	Mottled Rib	VD *	25
21	Hogg's Hindquarters	VD **	125
22	The Trap	HVS 5b	10
23	Anon	D	63
24	Kestrel Crack	S *	456
25	Kestrel Crack Variation Finish I	HVS 5a *	23
26	Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II	VS 5a	33
27	Katie Morag's First Steps	MVS 4b	73
28	Twisted Rib	VD *	208
29	Monopod	E2	8
30	Beech Wall	HS **	336
31	The Way Through	E2 5b **	71
32	The Porker	E3 5b	3
33	Piker's Progress	VS 5a *	45
34	Piker's Progress Direct	HVS 5a *	87
35	The Groove	VS 5a ***	367
36	The Rut	VS 5a **	241
37	Wriggle	VS 5a **	178
38	Twilight	E2 5c *	85

	Climb name	Grade	x

39	Piker's Variation	HVS 5a	6
40	Wriggle Direct	HVS 5a	20
41	Scram '79	E4 5c *	6
42	Holly Tree Groove	VD **	394
43	Recess Route	VD	126
44	The Creep	S *	76
45	Dynamo	VS 5a *	49
46	Nicotine Rush	E2 5b *	4
47	Turbo	E2 5c *	2
48	The Excuse	E2 6a *	5
49	Cuticle Creek	MVS	28
50	Cuticle Crack	S **	537
51	Airy Arete	VS 4c	33
52	The Crescent	VD *	30
53	Hairy Gully	M	51
54	Bollard Buttress	MS	136
55	Bollard Buttress Direct	HS *	142
56	Springboard	HVS 5a **	85
57	Springboard Direct Variation	E3 5c **	18
58	Live Wire	E5 6a	4
59	Helter Skelter	HVS 5a	8
60	The Chute	VS 5a *	69
61	Space Scuttle	E1 5b *	17
62	Pop	HVS 4c *	10
63	The End	VS 5a, 4c **	312
64	Barefoot/Beginning	E2 5c **	51
65	Terminal Buttress	HS *	124
66	Crash Test Dummies	E3 5c	19
67	The Duel Variation	E4 6a **	5
68	The Mound of Venus	E2 5c	3
69	Carpet Beater	HVS 5a *	31
70	Eschebaum	VD	12
71	Spirochaete	VS 4b *	73
72	Gitanes	VS 4c	2
73	Girdle Traverse	VS 4c	5
74	Unknown	7a	4
75	"S" Crack	S	6
76	Un-named *	S	3

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Aviemore, INVERNESSHIRE
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Access notes
Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ian Jones