Climbs 77
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces SW

Helter Skelter HVS, Craig a' Barns © Grahame N

Crag features

Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes

Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Myopic's Corner
-
HVS 5a *18
2Direct Finish to Myopic's CornerE2 5c * 
3Unknown7a 9
4The Chopping Block
-
7b **80
5The Vibes
-
7c **17
6Granola Head
-
7c *23
7Nameless?6c+ 2
8Psoriasis
-
E3 6a *14
9Sideline
-
E5 6b *6
10Sideline Direct (Sharp End)E6 7a *3
11Hot TipsE5 6c **13
12Cold Tips
-
E5 6c * 
13Ivy CrackVS 4c *333
14Poison Ivy (not including the arÍte start)VS 5a *119
15Poison Ivy (including the arete start)E1 5b *32
16Poison Arete
-
E4 5c 6
17Consolation CornerVD *271
18Left-Hand Edge
-
HVS 4c 7
19Left-Hand Crack
-
E2 5c **74
20Right-Hand Crack
-
VS 5a 41
21Mottled Rib
-
VD *34
22Hogg's HindquartersVD **173
23The Trap
-
HVS 5b 18
24AnonD 100
25Kestrel CrackS *620
26Kestrel Crack Variation Finish I
-
HVS 5a *25
27Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II
-
VS 5a 42
28Katie Morag's First StepsMVS 4b 85
29Twisted RibVD *286
30Monopod
-
E2 8
31Beech WallHS **464
32The Way Through
-
E2 5b **103
33The Porker
-
E3 5b 4
34Piker's Progress
-
VS 5a *52
35Piker's Progress Direct
-
HVS 5a *146
36The GrooveVS 5a ***534
37The Rut
-
VS 5a **386
38Wriggle
-
VS 5a **237
39Twilight
-
E2 5c *121
40Piker's Variation
-
HVS 5a 6
41Wriggle Direct
-
HVS 5a 27
42Scram '79
-
E4 5c *6
43Holly Tree GrooveVD **550
44Recess RouteVD 168
45The CreepS *110
46Dynamo
-
VS 5a *73
47Nicotine Rush
-
E2 5b *5
48Turbo
-
E2 5c *2
49The Excuse
-
E2 6a *5
50Cuticle CreekMVS 38
51Cuticle CrackS **780
52Airy Arete
-
VS 4c 51
53The Crescent
-
VD *35
54Hairy GullyM 62
55Bollard ButtressMS 183
56Bollard Buttress DirectHS *200
57SpringboardHVS 5a **127
58Springboard Direct VariationE3 5c **22
59Live Wire
-
E5 6a 6
60Helter Skelter
-
HVS 5a 10
61The ChuteVS 5a *115
62Space Scuttle
-
E1 5b *22
63Pop
-
HVS 4c *12
64The EndVS 5a, 4c **448
65Barefoot/BeginningE2 5c **66
66Terminal ButtressHS *189
67Crash Test Dummies
-
E3 5c 26
68The Duel Variation
-
E4 6a **6
69The Mound of Venus
-
E2 5c 3
70Carpet Beater
-
HVS 5a *38
71Eschebaum
-
VD 14
72Spirochaete
-
VS 4b *105
73Gitanes
-
VS 4c 2
74Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c 5
75"S" CrackS 8
76Un-namedS 3
77Vibe Heads7b+ 3

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