Climbs 87
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 202m a.s.l
Faces SW

Helter Skelter HVS, Craig a' Barns © Grahame N

Crag features

Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes

Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Myopics Buttress 
2Myopic's Corner
-
HVS 5a *18
3Direct Finish to Myopic's CornerE2 5c * 
4Unknown7a 10
5The Chopping Block
-
7b **111
6Shimmy7c *2
7Shimmy Sham8a *2
8The Vibes
-
7c **20
9Vibes Right hand finish7c  
10Vibe Heads7b+ ***10
11Bad Vibes7c+ **8
12Granola Head
-
7c *24
13Nameless?6c+ 2
 Ivy Buttress 
15The Bashful Groove
-
E2 5b  
16Psoriasis
-
E3 6a *15
17Sideline
-
E5 6b *6
18Sideline Direct (The Sharp End)E6 7a *3
19Stolen Ivy
-
E7 6c * 
20Hot TipsE5 6c **13
21Cold Tips
-
E5 6c * 
22For Your Own Pleasure
-
E4 6a  
23Ivy CrackVS 4c *372
24Poison Ivy (Without Arete Start)VS 5a *135
25Poison IvyE1 5b *30
26Poison Arete
-
E3 5c 6
27Consolation CornerVD *290
 Upper Buttress 
29Left-Hand Edge
-
HVS 4c 8
30Left-Hand Crack
-
E2 5c **95
31Right-Hand Crack
-
VS 5a 46
32Mottled Rib
-
VD *35
33Hogg's HindquartersVD **192
34The Trap
-
HVS 5b 20
 Main Cliff, Left Section 
36AnonD 112
37Kestrel CrackS *679
38Kestrel Crack Variation Finish I
-
HVS 5a *31
39Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II
-
VS 5a 44
40Katie Morag's First StepsMVS 4b 96
41Twisted RibVD *317
42Monopod
-
E2 8
43Beech WallHS **525
44Piker's Progress
-
VS 5a *61
45Piker's Variation
-
HVS 5a 8
46Piker's Progress Direct
-
HVS 5a *172
47The Way Through
-
E2 5b **130
48The Porker
-
E3 5b 5
49The GrooveVS 5a ***594
50The Rut
-
VS 5a **439
51Wriggle
-
VS 5a **267
52Twilight
-
E2 5c *144
53Wriggle Direct
-
HVS 5a 29
54Scram '79
-
E4 5c *6
55Holly Tree GrooveVD **619
56Blast Off
-
HVS 5b * 
57Recess RouteVD 189
58The CreepS *118
59Dynamo
-
VS 5a *83
60Nicotine Rush
-
E2 5b *6
61Turbo
-
E2 5c *2
62The Excuse
-
E2 6a *6
63Cuticle CreekMVS 44
64Cuticle CrackS **875
65Airy Arete
-
VS 4c 58
66The Crescent
-
VD *38
67Hairy GullyM 64
 Main Cliff, Right Section 
69Bollard ButtressMS 198
70Bollard Buttress DirectHS *221
71SpringboardHVS 5a **151
72Springboard Direct VariationE3 5c **24
73Live Wire
-
E5 6a 7
74Jumble
-
D 1
75Helter Skelter
-
HVS 5a 10
76The ChuteVS 5a *126
77Space Scuttle
-
E1 5b *23
78Pop
-
HVS 4c *12
79The EndVS 5a, 4c **501
80Barefoot/BeginningE2 5c **84
81Terminal ButtressHS *200
82Crash Test Dummies
-
E3 5c 30
83The Duel Variation
-
E4 6a **7
84The Mound of Venus
-
E2 5c 4
85Carpet Beater
-
HVS 5a *42
86Eschebaum
-
VD 14
87Spirochaete
-
VS 4b *109
88Gitanes
-
VS 4c 2
89Girdle TraverseVS 4c 6
90"S" CrackS 8
91Un-namedS 3
92Twisted Rib (Direct Finish)VS 4c *2

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