Climbs 86
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 202m a.s.l
Faces SW

Helter Skelter HVS, Craig a' Barns © Grahame N

Crag features

Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes

Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Myopics Buttress 
2Myopic's Corner
-
HVS 5a *18
3Direct Finish to Myopic's CornerE2 5c * 
4Unknown7a 10
5The Chopping Block
-
7b **110
6Shimmy7c * 
7The Vibes
-
7c **20
8Vibes Right hand finish7c  
9Vibe Heads7b+ ***9
10Bad Vibes7c+ **8
11Granola Head
-
7c *24
12Nameless?6c+ 2
 Ivy Buttress 
14The Bashful Groove
-
E2 5b  
15Psoriasis
-
E3 6a *15
16Sideline
-
E5 6b *6
17Sideline Direct (The Sharp End)E6 7a *3
18Stolen Ivy
-
E7 6c * 
19Hot TipsE5 6c **13
20Cold Tips
-
E5 6c * 
21For Your Own Pleasure
-
E4 6a  
22Ivy CrackVS 4c *370
23Poison Ivy (Without Arete Start)VS 5a *135
24Poison IvyE1 5b *30
25Poison Arete
-
E3 5c 6
26Consolation CornerVD *288
 Upper Buttress 
28Left-Hand Edge
-
HVS 4c 8
29Left-Hand Crack
-
E2 5c **94
30Right-Hand Crack
-
VS 5a 46
31Mottled Rib
-
VD *35
32Hogg's HindquartersVD **190
33The Trap
-
HVS 5b 20
 Main Cliff, Left Section 
35AnonD 109
36Kestrel CrackS *673
37Kestrel Crack Variation Finish I
-
HVS 5a *31
38Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II
-
VS 5a 44
39Katie Morag's First StepsMVS 4b 95
40Twisted RibVD *314
41Monopod
-
E2 8
42Beech WallHS **517
43Piker's Progress
-
VS 5a *59
44Piker's Variation
-
HVS 5a 7
45Piker's Progress Direct
-
HVS 5a *171
46The Way Through
-
E2 5b **128
47The Porker
-
E3 5b 5
48The GrooveVS 5a ***589
49The Rut
-
VS 5a **435
50Wriggle
-
VS 5a **266
51Twilight
-
E2 5c *142
52Wriggle Direct
-
HVS 5a 29
53Scram '79
-
E4 5c *6
54Holly Tree GrooveVD **613
55Blast Off
-
HVS 5b * 
56Recess RouteVD 186
57The CreepS *118
58Dynamo
-
VS 5a *81
59Nicotine Rush
-
E2 5b *6
60Turbo
-
E2 5c *2
61The Excuse
-
E2 6a *6
62Cuticle CreekMVS 43
63Cuticle CrackS **863
64Airy Arete
-
VS 4c 58
65The Crescent
-
VD *38
66Hairy GullyM 63
 Main Cliff, Right Section 
68Bollard ButtressMS 198
69Bollard Buttress DirectHS *219
70SpringboardHVS 5a **150
71Springboard Direct VariationE3 5c **24
72Live Wire
-
E5 6a 7
73Jumble
-
D 1
74Helter Skelter
-
HVS 5a 10
75The ChuteVS 5a *126
76Space Scuttle
-
E1 5b *22
77Pop
-
HVS 4c *12
78The EndVS 5a, 4c **495
79Barefoot/BeginningE2 5c **83
80Terminal ButtressHS *200
81Crash Test Dummies
-
E3 5c 28
82The Duel Variation
-
E4 6a **7
83The Mound of Venus
-
E2 5c 4
84Carpet Beater
-
HVS 5a *42
85Eschebaum
-
VD 14
86Spirochaete
-
VS 4b *109
87Gitanes
-
VS 4c 2
88Girdle TraverseVS 4c 6
89"S" CrackS 8
90Un-namedS 3
91Twisted Rib (Direct Finish)VS 4c *2

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