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These details were last updated on 11/Feb/2014

Dunkeld, Craig a Barns

Perthshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 77 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Access notes
Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

0.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
15 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
17 °C
25 kph

0.2mm rain
Sun
12 °C
26 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
22 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Cairngorms & MonadhliathMet Office: East Highlands

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Highland Outcrops (1998), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
1Myopic's CornerHVS 5a *16
2Direct Finish to Myopic's CornerE2 5c * 
3The Chopping Block7b **68
4The Vibes7c **16
5Granola Head7c *22
6Nameless?6c+ 2
7PsoriasisE3 6a *14
8SidelineE5 6b *6
9Sideline Direct (Sharp End)E6 7a *3
10Hot TipsE5 6c **13
11Cold TipsE5 6c * 
12Ivy CrackVS 4c *289
13Poison Ivy (not including the arête start)VS 5a *97
14Poison Ivy (including the arete start)E1 5b *26
15Poison AreteE4 5c 6
16Consolation CornerVD *246
17Left-Hand EdgeHVS 4c 7
18Left-Hand CrackE2 5c **69
19Right-Hand CrackVS 5a 35
20Mottled RibVD *32
21Hogg's HindquartersVD **144
22The TrapHVS 5b 11
23AnonD 74
24Kestrel CrackS *544
25Kestrel Crack Variation Finish IHVS 5a *26
26Kestrel Crack Variation Finish IIVS 5a 38
27Katie Morag's First StepsMVS 4b 80
28Twisted RibVD *249
29MonopodE2 8
30Beech WallHS **407
31The Way ThroughE2 5b **88
32The PorkerE3 5b 4
33Piker's ProgressVS 5a *48
34Piker's Progress DirectHVS 5a *120
35The GrooveVS 5a ***439
36The RutVS 5a **320
37WriggleVS 5a **211
38TwilightE2 5c *103
39Piker's VariationHVS 5a 6
 Climb nameGradex
40Wriggle DirectHVS 5a 24
41Scram '79E4 5c *6
42Holly Tree GrooveVD **473
43Recess RouteVD 146
44The CreepS *92
45DynamoVS 5a *62
46Nicotine RushE2 5b *4
47TurboE2 5c *2
48The ExcuseE2 6a *5
49Cuticle CreekMVS 33
50Cuticle CrackS **668
51Airy AreteVS 4c 42
52The CrescentVD *35
53Hairy GullyM 57
54Bollard ButtressMS 157
55Bollard Buttress DirectHS *172
56SpringboardHVS 5a **107
57Springboard Direct VariationE3 5c **21
58Live WireE5 6a 6
59Helter SkelterHVS 5a 9
60The ChuteVS 5a *98
61Space ScuttleE1 5b *21
62PopHVS 4c *10
63The EndVS 5a, 4c **381
64Barefoot/BeginningE2 5c **59
65Terminal ButtressHS *162
66Crash Test DummiesE3 5c 23
67The Duel VariationE4 6a **5
68The Mound of VenusE2 5c 3
69Carpet BeaterHVS 5a *37
70EschebaumVD 12
71SpirochaeteVS 4b *90
72GitanesVS 4c 2
73Girdle TraverseVS 4c 5
74Unknown7a 7
75"S" CrackS 7
76Un-namedS 3
77Vibe Heads7b+ 3
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03

Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03