Dunkeld, Craig a Barns

Climbs 77 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Access notes
Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Scottish Rock - South (2008), Highland Outcrops (1998), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Myopic's CornerHVS 5a *17
2Direct Finish to Myopic's CornerE2 5c * 
3The Chopping Block7b **74
4The Vibes7c **17
5Granola Head7c *23
6Nameless?6c+ 2
7PsoriasisE3 6a *14
8SidelineE5 6b *6
9Sideline Direct (Sharp End)E6 7a *3
10Hot TipsE5 6c **13
11Cold TipsE5 6c * 
12Ivy CrackVS 4c *315
13Poison Ivy (not including the arÍte start)VS 5a *106
14Poison Ivy (including the arete start)E1 5b *29
15Poison AreteE4 5c 7
16Consolation CornerVD *264
17Left-Hand EdgeHVS 4c 7
18Left-Hand CrackE2 5c **71
19Right-Hand CrackVS 5a 39
20Mottled RibVD *34
21Hogg's HindquartersVD **162
22The TrapHVS 5b 15
23AnonD 89
24Kestrel CrackS *591
25Kestrel Crack Variation Finish IHVS 5a *26
26Kestrel Crack Variation Finish IIVS 5a 41
27Katie Morag's First StepsMVS 4b 84
28Twisted RibVD *278
29MonopodE2 8
30Beech WallHS **449
31The Way ThroughE2 5b **97
32The PorkerE3 5b 4
33Piker's ProgressVS 5a *53
34Piker's Progress DirectHVS 5a *135
35The GrooveVS 5a ***484
36The RutVS 5a **352
37WriggleVS 5a **228
38TwilightE2 5c *114
39Piker's VariationHVS 5a 6
40Wriggle DirectHVS 5a 27
41Scram '79E4 5c *6
42Holly Tree GrooveVD **527
43Recess RouteVD 162
44The CreepS *100
45DynamoVS 5a *68
46Nicotine RushE2 5b *4
47TurboE2 5c *2
48The ExcuseE2 6a *5
49Cuticle CreekMVS 37
50Cuticle CrackS **736
51Airy AreteVS 4c 46
52The CrescentVD *36
53Hairy GullyM 62
54Bollard ButtressMS 168
55Bollard Buttress DirectHS *192
56SpringboardHVS 5a **122
57Springboard Direct VariationE3 5c **22
58Live WireE5 6a 6
59Helter SkelterHVS 5a 10
60The ChuteVS 5a *110
61Space ScuttleE1 5b *22
62PopHVS 4c *12
63The EndVS 5a, 4c **410
64Barefoot/BeginningE2 5c **62
65Terminal ButtressHS *183
66Crash Test DummiesE3 5c 25
67The Duel VariationE4 6a **6
68The Mound of VenusE2 5c 3
69Carpet BeaterHVS 5a *38
70EschebaumVD 14
71SpirochaeteVS 4b *101
72GitanesVS 4c 2
73Girdle TraverseVS 4c 5
74Unknown7a 7
75"S" CrackS 8
76Un-namedS 3
77Vibe Heads7b+ 3
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03