Climbs 77
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces SW

Helter Skelter HVS, Craig a' Barns © Grahame N

Crag features

Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes

Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Myopic's Corner
HVS 5a *18
2Direct Finish to Myopic's CornerE2 5c * 
3Unknown7a 9
4The Chopping Block
7b **80
5The Vibes
7c **17
6Granola Head
7c *23
7Nameless?6c+ 2
E3 6a *14
E5 6b *6
10Sideline Direct (Sharp End)E6 7a *3
11Hot TipsE5 6c **13
12Cold Tips
E5 6c * 
13Ivy CrackVS 4c *328
14Poison Ivy (not including the arÍte start)VS 5a *121
15Poison Ivy (including the arete start)E1 5b *29
16Poison Arete
E4 5c 6
17Consolation CornerVD *271
18Left-Hand Edge
HVS 4c 7
19Left-Hand Crack
E2 5c **84
20Right-Hand Crack
VS 5a 39
21Mottled Rib
VD *34
22Hogg's HindquartersVD **171
23The Trap
HVS 5b 18
24AnonD 100
25Kestrel CrackS *612
26Kestrel Crack Variation Finish I
HVS 5a *25
27Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II
VS 5a 42
28Katie Morag's First StepsMVS 4b 85
29Twisted RibVD *285
E2 8
31Beech WallHS **458
32The Way Through
E2 5b **101
33The Porker
E3 5b 4
34Piker's Progress
VS 5a *52
35Piker's Progress Direct
HVS 5a *144
36The GrooveVS 5a ***529
37The Rut
VS 5a **372
VS 5a **235
E2 5c *121
40Piker's Variation
HVS 5a 6
41Wriggle Direct
HVS 5a 27
42Scram '79
E4 5c *6
43Holly Tree GrooveVD **545
44Recess RouteVD 167
45The CreepS *108
VS 5a *73
47Nicotine Rush
E2 5b *6
E2 5c *2
49The Excuse
E2 6a *5
50Cuticle CreekMVS 38
51Cuticle CrackS **771
52Airy Arete
VS 4c 51
53The Crescent
VD *35
54Hairy GullyM 62
55Bollard ButtressMS 181
56Bollard Buttress DirectHS *200
57SpringboardHVS 5a **134
58Springboard Direct VariationE3 5c **22
59Live Wire
E5 6a 6
60Helter Skelter
HVS 5a 10
61The ChuteVS 5a *114
62Space Scuttle
E1 5b *22
HVS 4c *12
64The EndVS 5a, 4c **441
65Barefoot/BeginningE2 5c **66
66Terminal ButtressHS *187
67Crash Test Dummies
E3 5c 26
68The Duel Variation
E4 6a **6
69The Mound of Venus
E2 5c 3
70Carpet Beater
HVS 5a *38
VD 14
VS 4b *104
VS 4c 2
74Girdle Traverse
VS 4c 5
75"S" CrackS 8
76Un-namedS 3
77Vibe Heads7b+ 3

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