Climbs 85
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 202m a.s.l
Faces SW

Helter Skelter HVS, Craig a' Barns © Grahame N

Crag features

Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes

Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Myopics Buttress 
2Myopic's Corner
-
HVS 5a *18
3Direct Finish to Myopic's CornerE2 5c * 
4Unknown7a 10
5The Chopping Block
-
7b **101
6The Vibes
-
7c **20
7Vibes Right hand finish7c  
8Vibe Heads7b+ ***5
9Bad Vibes7c+ **5
10Granola Head
-
7c *24
11Nameless?6c+ 2
 Ivy Buttress 
13The Bashful Groove
-
E2 5b  
14Psoriasis
-
E3 6a *15
15Sideline
-
E5 6b *6
16Sideline Direct (The Sharp End)E6 7a *3
17Stolen Ivy
-
E7 6c * 
18Hot TipsE5 6c **13
19Cold Tips
-
E5 6c * 
20For Your Own Pleasure
-
E4 6a  
21Ivy CrackVS 4c *351
22Poison Ivy (Without Arete Start)VS 5a *130
23Poison IvyE1 5b *30
24Poison Arete
-
E3 5c 6
25Consolation CornerVD *276
 Upper Buttress 
27Left-Hand Edge
-
HVS 4c 8
28Left-Hand Crack
-
E2 5c **80
29Right-Hand Crack
-
VS 5a 44
30Mottled Rib
-
VD *35
31Hogg's HindquartersVD **187
32The Trap
-
HVS 5b 20
 Main Cliff, Left Section 
34AnonD 104
35Kestrel CrackS *649
36Kestrel Crack Variation Finish I
-
HVS 5a *28
37Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II
-
VS 5a 44
38Katie Morag's First StepsMVS 4b 92
39Twisted RibVD *305
40Monopod
-
E2 8
41Beech WallHS **500
42Piker's Progress
-
VS 5a *58
43Piker's Variation
-
HVS 5a 7
44Piker's Progress Direct
-
HVS 5a *164
45The Way Through
-
E2 5b **121
46The Porker
-
E3 5b 5
47The GrooveVS 5a ***573
48The Rut
-
VS 5a **417
49Wriggle
-
VS 5a **262
50Twilight
-
E2 5c *131
51Wriggle Direct
-
HVS 5a 28
52Scram '79
-
E4 5c *6
53Holly Tree GrooveVD **590
54Blast Off
-
HVS 5b * 
55Recess RouteVD 179
56The CreepS *117
57Dynamo
-
VS 5a *78
58Nicotine Rush
-
E2 5b *6
59Turbo
-
E2 5c *2
60The Excuse
-
E2 6a *6
61Cuticle CreekMVS 42
62Cuticle CrackS **831
63Airy Arete
-
VS 4c 56
64The Crescent
-
VD *38
65Hairy GullyM 62
 Main Cliff, Right Section 
67Bollard ButtressMS 190
68Bollard Buttress DirectHS *209
69SpringboardHVS 5a **138
70Springboard Direct VariationE3 5c **24
71Live Wire
-
E5 6a 7
72Jumble
-
D  
73Helter Skelter
-
HVS 5a 10
74The ChuteVS 5a *123
75Space Scuttle
-
E1 5b *22
76Pop
-
HVS 4c *12
77The EndVS 5a, 4c **481
78Barefoot/BeginningE2 5c **83
79Terminal ButtressHS *197
80Crash Test Dummies
-
E3 5c 28
81The Duel Variation
-
E4 6a **7
82The Mound of Venus
-
E2 5c 4
83Carpet Beater
-
HVS 5a *42
84Eschebaum
-
VD 14
85Spirochaete
-
VS 4b *109
86Gitanes
-
VS 4c 2
87Girdle TraverseVS 4c 6
88"S" CrackS 8
89Un-namedS 3
90Twisted Rib (Direct Finish)VS 4c *2

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