Black Crag (Wrynose)

Climbs 145 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 580m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Short routes on sound rough rock over a good grade range. High on the fell but with an easy approach and dries quickly. Best routes are Yellow fever(E2), First Touch(E1), Glass Slipper(E2), Anns Agony(HVS), Skye Ridge(VD).

Needle Arete is an excellent E3 6a.

A number of the routes have thought provoking levels of protection.

A fantastic venue for late/early season, catching any sun that's going.

Approach notes
Park at the summit of Wrynose Pass by the Three Shire Stone. Twenty minutes steady uphill walk.

Guidebooks
Langdale (2013), Lakes Bouldering (2006), Lake District Rock (2003),
Out of print: Langdale (1999), Langdale (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ROUTES  
 WEST FACE  
3Dave's AreteE1 6a 70
4Pocket WayE5 6a 44
5Pocket CrackE3 6a 27
6Sleep on my PillowE1 5b 114
7Nod OffS 4b 156
8NoddyHVS 5c 40
9ThreeVS 4c 157
10BlindVS 4c 155
11MiceVS 4c 238
12The Real WorldE5 6a 7
13SlipshodHVS 5a 273
14Yellow FeverE2 5b ***174
15Yellow PerilE3 5c * 
16Artful DodgerE6 6a/b **4
17The First TouchE1 5b *269
18Hold OnS 4b 133
19Stop Showing OffHVS 5a 114
20Mind of No Fixed AbodeE1 5a **51
21The Last CornerHVS 5a 35
22The ProwHVS 5a 85
 SOUTH FACE  
24Rope UpE2 6b **29
25The NeedleVD *231
26Needle AreteE3 6a 90
27Hang the Gallows HighE6 6b 2
28Monkey the NeedleHVS 5a 23
29Little AcornsD *79
30Scrambler's CornerM 50
31Skye RidgeVD **178
32ManHS 4b 48
33TheVS 4b 32
34GunsS 4a 44
35Billy BunterVS 4c 95
36BilkoE4 6a 3
37DobermanE3 6a *11
38Just a MinuteVS 4c *7
 GLASS SLIPPER BUTTRESS  
40Not So JollyD *10
41Jolly RogerHS 4b 295
42Jolly CornerD 91
43Fun RunMVS 120
44Ann's AgonyHVS 5b **217
45Glass SlipperE2 5b *448
46Pumpkin CornerVD 18
47Sharp as GlassS 346
48Glass ClogsS 4b 212
49TimVS 14
50MistyVS 4c 10
 BOULDER PROBLEMS  
 BLACK CRAG BOULDERS  
 POTATO BOULDER  
54Problem 1V2 5
55Problem 2V2 4
56Problem 3V2 *5
57Potatof6C *1
58Problem 5V0+ *4
59Problem 6V0 5
 NORTH WEST BOULDERS  
61Problem 7V0- 4c 3
62Problem 8f3 3
63Problem 9V0+ 2
 FIN ROCK AND BIG BLOCK  
65Fin Rockf5 5c *1
66Big Blockf3+ 4c 2
 SAIL BOULDER, HIGH SLAB AND THE COFFIN  
68Problem 12V1 6
69Sailf4+ 5b *4
70Problem 14V0- 4
71High Slabf3+ 4c **8
72Coffinf5+ 6a *4
73Left WallV4  
 DIAMOND AND PULLOVER  
75Diamondf5 5c *1
76The Prowf4 5a 6
77Pulloverf6A 5
 ROPE UP WALL  
79Prow Rightf3+ 4c *8
80Rope Upf6B ***13
 SOUTH EAST BOULDERS  
82Lower Boulder Traversef5+ 5c * 
83Higher Boulder Traversef5 5c *1
 NEW/UNCONFIRMED ROUTES  
85Vlad the InhalerHS 4b ***2
86Crack OnVS 4b **2
87In AbsentiaE1 5b **2
88True GritHVS 5a **1
89GubbinsS 4a **1
90An Evening With FriendsE1 5c *8
91PeachesE5 6b *2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Many of the star ratings and some of the grades need updating in accordance with the new guide.
Fiend - 18/May/15
Fantastic on a clear winters day. I went at the end of jan '06 and it was shorts + t shirt weather. Dry as a bone and no wind with a 15 min walk in. The sun works its way round the crag through the day so you can stay warm all day. Only short but quality climbing on great rock though the E numbers seemed a serious proposition with little gear.
biscuit - 01/Feb/06