Black Crag (Wrynose)

Climbs 145 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 580m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Short routes on sound rough rock over a good grade range. High on the fell but with an easy approach and dries quickly. Best routes are Yellow fever(E2), First Touch(E1), Glass Slipper(E2), Anns Agony(HVS), Skye Ridge(VD).

Needle Arete is an excellent E3 6a.

A number of the routes have thought provoking levels of protection.

A fantastic venue for late/early season, catching any sun that's going.

Access notes
Park at the summit of Wrynose Pass by the Three Shire Stone. Twenty minutes steady uphill walk.

Guidebooks
Langdale (2013), Lakes Bouldering (2006), Lake District Rock (2003),
Out of print: Langdale (1999), Langdale (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 ROUTES 
 WEST FACE 
3Dave's AreteE1 6a
4Pocket WayE5 6a
5Pocket CrackE3 6a
6Sleep on my PillowE1 5b
7Nod OffS 4b
8NoddyHVS 5c
9ThreeVS 4c
10BlindVS 4c
11MiceVS 4c
12The Real WorldE5 6a
13SlipshodHVS 5a
14Yellow FeverE2 5b ***
15Yellow PerilE3 5c *
16Artful DodgerE6 6a/b **
17The First TouchE1 5b *
18Hold OnS 4b
19Stop Showing OffHVS 5a
20Mind of No Fixed AbodeE1 5a **
21The Last CornerHVS 5a
22The ProwHVS 5a
 SOUTH FACE 
24Rope UpE2 6b **
25The NeedleVD *
26Needle AreteE3 6a
27Hang the Gallows HighE6 6b
28Monkey the NeedleHVS 5a
29Little AcornsD *
30Scrambler's CornerM
31Skye RidgeVD **
32ManHS 4b
33TheVS 4b
34GunsS 4a
35Billy BunterVS 4c
36BilkoE4 6a
37DobermanE3 6a *
38Just a MinuteVS 4c *
 GLASS SLIPPER BUTTRESS 
40Not So JollyD *
41Jolly RogerHS 4b
42Jolly CornerD
43Fun RunMVS
44Ann's AgonyHVS 5b **
45Glass SlipperE2 5b *
46Pumpkin CornerVD
47Sharp as GlassS
48Glass ClogsS 4b
49TimVS
50MistyVS 4c
 BOULDER PROBLEMS 
 BLACK CRAG BOULDERS 
 POTATO BOULDER 
54Problem 1V2 6a
55Problem 2V2 6a
56Problem 3V2 6a *
57PotatoV5 *
58Problem 5V0+ 5b *
59Problem 6V0 5a
 NORTH WEST BOULDERS 
61Problem 7V0- 4c
62Problem 8V0 5a *
63Problem 9V0+ 5b
 FIN ROCK AND BIG BLOCK 
65Fin RockV1 5c
66Big BlockV0- 4c
 SAIL BOULDER, HIGH SLAB AND THE COFFIN 
68Problem 12V1 5c
69SailV0+ 5b *
70Problem 14V0- 4c
71High SlabV0- 4c **
72CoffinV2 6a *
73Left WallV4
 DIAMOND AND PULLOVER 
75DiamondV1 5c *
76The ProwV0 5a
77PulloverV3
 ROPE UP WALL 
79Prow RightV0- 4c *
80Rope UpV4 ***
 SOUTH EAST BOULDERS 
82Lower Boulder TraverseV2 5c *
83Higher Boulder TraverseV1 5c *
 NEW/UNCONFIRMED ROUTES 
85Vlad the InhalerHS 4b ***
86Crack OnVS 4b **
87In AbsentiaE1 5b **
88True GritHVS 5a **
89GubbinsS 4a **
90An Evening With FriendsE1 5c *
91PeachesE5 6b *
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Fantastic on a clear winters day. I went at the end of jan '06 and it was shorts + t shirt weather. Dry as a bone and no wind with a 15 min walk in. The sun works its way round the crag through the day so you can stay warm all day. Only short but quality climbing on great rock though the E numbers seemed a serious proposition with little gear.
biscuit - 01/Feb/06
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These details were last updated on 26/Apr/2010

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