Black Crag (Wrynose)

Climbs 145 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 580m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Short routes on sound rough rock over a good grade range. High on the fell but with an easy approach and dries quickly. Best routes are Yellow fever(E2), First Touch(E1), Glass Slipper(E2), Anns Agony(HVS), Skye Ridge(VD).

Needle Arete is an excellent E3 6a.

A number of the routes have thought provoking levels of protection.

A fantastic venue for late/early season, catching any sun that's going.

Access notes
Park at the summit of Wrynose Pass by the Three Shire Stone. Twenty minutes steady uphill walk.

Guidebooks
Langdale (2013), Lakes Bouldering (2006), Lake District Rock (2003),
Out of print: Langdale (1999), Langdale (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ROUTES  
 WEST FACE  
3Dave's AreteE1 6a 66
4Pocket WayE5 6a 41
5Pocket CrackE3 6a 27
6Sleep on my PillowE1 5b 100
7Nod OffS 4b 142
8NoddyHVS 5c 37
9ThreeVS 4c 142
10BlindVS 4c 143
11MiceVS 4c 215
12The Real WorldE5 6a 6
13SlipshodHVS 5a 244
14Yellow FeverE2 5b ***160
15Yellow PerilE3 5c * 
16Artful DodgerE6 6a/b **4
17The First TouchE1 5b *244
18Hold OnS 4b 119
19Stop Showing OffHVS 5a 102
20Mind of No Fixed AbodeE1 5a **47
21The Last CornerHVS 5a 33
22The ProwHVS 5a 83
 SOUTH FACE  
24Rope UpE2 6b **28
25The NeedleVD *210
26Needle AreteE3 6a 86
27Hang the Gallows HighE6 6b 2
28Monkey the NeedleHVS 5a 21
29Little AcornsD *69
30Scrambler's CornerM 44
31Skye RidgeVD **161
32ManHS 4b 48
33TheVS 4b 31
34GunsS 4a 43
35Billy BunterVS 4c 81
36BilkoE4 6a 2
37DobermanE3 6a *9
38Just a MinuteVS 4c *3
 GLASS SLIPPER BUTTRESS  
40Not So JollyD *3
41Jolly RogerHS 4b 268
42Jolly CornerD 75
43Fun RunMVS 110
44Ann's AgonyHVS 5b **196
45Glass SlipperE2 5b *412
46Pumpkin CornerVD 11
47Sharp as GlassS 313
48Glass ClogsS 4b 200
49TimVS 6
50MistyVS 4c 6
 BOULDER PROBLEMS  
 BLACK CRAG BOULDERS  
 POTATO BOULDER  
54Problem 1V2 6a 4
55Problem 2V2 6a 3
56Problem 3V2 6a *4
57PotatoV5 *1
58Problem 5V0+ 5b *4
59Problem 6V0 5a 5
 NORTH WEST BOULDERS  
61Problem 7V0- 4c 3
62Problem 8V0 5a *3
63Problem 9V0+ 5b 2
 FIN ROCK AND BIG BLOCK  
65Fin RockV1 5c 1
66Big BlockV0- 4c 2
 SAIL BOULDER, HIGH SLAB AND THE COFFIN  
68Problem 12V1 5c 6
69SailV0+ 5b *4
70Problem 14V0- 4c 4
71High SlabV0- 4c **8
72CoffinV2 6a *4
73Left WallV4  
 DIAMOND AND PULLOVER  
75DiamondV1 5c *1
76The ProwV0 5a 6
77PulloverV3 4
 ROPE UP WALL  
79Prow RightV0- 4c *8
80Rope UpV4 ***13
 SOUTH EAST BOULDERS  
82Lower Boulder TraverseV2 5c * 
83Higher Boulder TraverseV1 5c *1
 NEW/UNCONFIRMED ROUTES  
85Vlad the InhalerHS 4b ***2
86Crack OnVS 4b **2
87In AbsentiaE1 5b **2
88True GritHVS 5a **1
89GubbinsS 4a **1
90An Evening With FriendsE1 5c *6
91PeachesE5 6b *2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Fantastic on a clear winters day. I went at the end of jan '06 and it was shorts + t shirt weather. Dry as a bone and no wind with a 15 min walk in. The sun works its way round the crag through the day so you can stay warm all day. Only short but quality climbing on great rock though the E numbers seemed a serious proposition with little gear.
biscuit - 01/Feb/06
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These details were last updated on 26/Apr/2010

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