Mgarr ix xini

Climbs 51 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Limestone 'gorge' on Gozo, Malta. Series of bolted and trad routes on solid limestone. Some iffy staples, good threads. Some climbs overgrown. Brambles at base of White Walls are impassable so abseil required to access. Good climbing and in shade for some of day. Some unrepeated hard routes. 50m rope should do you.

For DWS take the road down to the pebbly beach then follow either side of the creek. East side features a very interesting cave area. Good fish restaurant/shack at beach. Should be possible to hitch along track back fairly easily

Access notes
From the road running down to the sea along the valley top, park by a ruined room and head down the concrete ramp near this, then left across the field and broken ground heading towards a rock promontory formed by the sharp curve of the valley. There are steps in this which lead to the base of the valley then take a tunnel through the promontory to get you to the base of Dream Walls.

Guidebooks
Sport Climbing in Malta & Gozo (2013), The Adventure Guidebook to the Maltese Islands (2010), Malta Rock Climbing: the Comprehensive Guide (2007),
Out of print: Malta New Climbs (1986)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MGARR IX-XINI BAY 
2Western Traverse of the BayHVS 5c ***
3Eastern TraverseF6b *
 WHITE WALLS 
5AgamemnonHS 4c *
 WATERWORKS AREA (SOUTH SIDE) 
 ITALIAN WALLS (SOUTH SIDE) 
8Volanti6a **
9Frantic desolation6a ***
 GEMINI CRACKS (SOUTH SIDE) 
 ANTIPASTI WALLS (NORTH SIDE) 
12CasablancaS 4a *
13P.P. OnlyS 4b
 FREEDOM WALLS (NORTH SIDE) 
15FreedomHS 4a **
16Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonD *
 HAMMERHEAD BOULDER 
 JUNGLE JIM AREA 
 TAURUS AREA 
20CapricornHVS 4b **
 THE NOSE (NORTH SIDE) 
22Flying Pickit6c ***
23The Naked Nose7a+
 LAYAWAY BUTTRESS 
25Layaway Independence DayVS 4c
 CHAMPAGNE WALL 
27Dirty Girls6a+ *
28Moral Obligations6b+
29Ghost Dancing7a *
30Unfinished Business6c
31Champagne6b+ **
 MOBY DICK WALLS 
33Moby Dick Direct6b
34Big Dick6b+ *
35White Whale6b+
36Rubber Duck6a
 DREAM WALLS 
38Lost Chance6b+ *
39Ezy Rider7a ***
40Ezy Ryder Direct7a+
41Eye of the Tiger7b **
42Chances6c+ ***
43Tulips from Amsterdamned6c+ **
44Bulk Order6b **
45Right on Cue6a+ *
 FLAKE OUT WALLS (SOUTH SIDE) 
47The Mysterious Dutchman6c **
48Route to Right of Mysterious Dutchman6b *
49Gemini 26a
50Scorpio direct6b+
51Cancer5a *
52Caraboo5c
53Cartridge5a
54Boom Boom5a
55Shot Gun5c
56Lead Shot5c
57Vandalised5c
58Vogue5c
59Dunne's HungoverE1 5b
60White winds5c *
61Didi's First6a *
62Hammered5a
63Chasin' the dream7b **
64Broken Gun4a *
65French Lace4c *
66VPL4a *
67Moby Dick Right Hand6b+ **
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