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These details were last updated on 05/Sep/2011

Mgarr ix xini

Gozo, MALTA

Climbs 47 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Limestone 'gorge' on Gozo, Malta. Series of bolted and trad routes on solid limestone. Some iffy staples, good threads. Some climbs overgrown. Brambles at base of White Walls are impassable so abseil required to access. Good climbing and in shade for some of day. Some unrepeated hard routes. 50m rope should do you.

For DWS take the road down to the pebbly beach then follow either side of the creek. East side features a very interesting cave area. Good fish restaurant/shack at beach. Should be possible to hitch along track back fairly easily

Guidebooks
The Adventure Guidebook to the Maltese Islands (2010), Malta Rock Climbing: the Comprehensive Guide (2007),
Out of print: Malta New Climbs (1986)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 MGARR IX-XINI BAY  
2Western Traverse of the BayHVS 5c ***3
3Eastern TraverseF6b *1
 WHITE WALLS  
 WATERWORKS AREA (SOUTH SIDE)  
 ITALIAN WALLS (SOUTH SIDE)  
7Volanti6a **3
8Frantic desolation6a ***5
 GEMINI CRACKS (SOUTH SIDE)  
 ANTIPASTI WALLS (NORTH SIDE)  
11AgamemnonHS 4c *1
 FREEDOM WALLS (NORTH SIDE)  
13FreedomHS 4a **1
14Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonD *1
 HAMMERHEAD BOULDER  
 JUNGLE JIM AREA  
 TAURUS AREA  
18CapricornHVS 4b **1
 THE NOSE (NORTH SIDE)  
20Flying Pickit6c ***2
21The Naked Nose7a+ 5
 LAYAWAY BUTTRESS  
23Layaway Independence DayVS 4c 1
 CHAMPAGNE WALL  
25Dirty Girls6a+ *3
26Moral Obligations6b+ 1
27Ghost Dancing7a *1
28Unfinished Business6c 2
29Champagne6b+ **10
 MOBY DICK WALLS  
31Moby Dick Direct2 ***4
32Big Dick6b+ *5
 Climb nameGradex
33White Whale6b+ 1
 DREAM WALLS  
35Lost Chance6b+ *1
36Ezy Rider7a ***6
37Ezy Ryder Direct7a+ 1
38Eye of the Tiger7b **1
39Chances6c+ ***2
40Tulips from Amsterdamned6c+ **2
41Bulk Order6b **5
42Right on Cue6a+ *3
 FLAKE OUT WALLS (SOUTH SIDE)  
44The Mysterious Dutchman6c **4
45Route to Right of Mysterious Dutchman6b *2
46Gemini 26a 6
47Scorpio direct6b+ 3
48Cancer5 *5
49Caraboo5+ 3
50Cartridge5 3
51Boom Boom5 3
52Shot Gun5+ 3
53Lead Shot5+ 3
54Vandalised5+ 2
55Vogue5+ 2
56Dunne's HungoverE1 5b 1
57White winds5+ *2
58Didi's First6a *2
59Hammered5 3
60Chasin' the dream7b **1
61Broken Gun4 *2
62French Lace4+ *1
63VPL4 *2
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Access notes
From the road running down to the sea along the valley top, park by a ruined room and head down the concrete ramp near this, then left across the field and broken ground heading towards a rock promontory formed by the sharp curve of the valley. There are steps in this which lead to the base of the valley then take a tunnel through the promontory to get you to the base of Dream Walls.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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