Sheltered, sun-catching, quick-drying and low-lying, this crag has 17 routes ranging from Diff. to HVS. All this and only 15 minutes from the road. Not being a mountain crag a visit at any time of the year is feasible except between the end of March and late July if peregrines are nesting here.
To get to the crag turn north off the Glenealy - Rathdrum road immediately before the railway bridge. Take the next turn to the left, about 2km up the road, and left again at the T-junction. About 500 metres up the road there is a forest entrance where parking is possible. Enter the forest, turn right at the T-junction and take the second turn on the left which leads to the crag which is on the right side of the track.
The approach from Roundwood is via Tomriland Cross, Moneystown and Garryduff Cross.
There are three sections to the crag, Ash Tree Slabs on the left, Upper Buttress in the middle and Lower Buttress on the right. There is an easy descent route to the left of Ash Tree Slabs.
Wicklow Rock Climbing Guide (2009)
|1||Pine tree way||VS 4c||2|
|2||Fraughan Crack||VS 4c|
|5||Lineker||VS 4b *||21|
|6||Bloody nose||E1 5b|
|7||Le Taureau Brun de Cooley||S 4b||27|
|9||The saw doctors||VS 4c *||12|
|10||Orange Peel||VS 4c|
|11||Bonsai||VS 4c *||14|
|12||Scud guys die young||HVS 5a||3|
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