Climbs 118
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces SW

Tom pulling through the crux of High Performance. © mshorter

Crag features

Upper Cave Crag is an overhanging crag that offers some superb, steep routes. Recommended: Rat Race E4, Marlina 7c.


25.07.09 The missing bolts have been replaced on all routes with the exception of Ching, the very eliminate 8a.

Also accessed from the same car park as Upper Cave Crag are Lover's Leap, Even Lower Cave Crag and Lower Cave Crag. For logbook purposes I have included routes for these crags as well, in the order they appear in the SMC guidebook.

Approach notes

The crags are best accessed from the Forestry Commission car park at NO023437, reached off the A923 Dunkeld to Blairgowrie road. Felling operations may require detours from the approach routes given in the guidebook.

Can also be accessed as for Craig a Barns and then follow a complex path through the woods.

Actually the original climbs directly from the ring bolt (old bolt 2) to bolt 4 Climbing from 3 to 4 going right rather than up left and back right is easier in some peoples opinion so does not make any difference to grade.
sheppy - 22/May/14
Original goes more direct, moving rightwards and up, from the 3rd to 4th bolts, using the crystally pockets & crimps & a big reach to gain the jug below the 4th bolt. The other 7b+ variant (ie non-original) loops out to the left from the big undercling at the 3rd bolt on larger holds, but takes longer to get to the next clip. FWIW, I don't reckon there's much difference in difficulty either way, the crux is still to come at the finish!
Fraser - 01/May/11
What is the differance between Marlina and Marlina Original? I now don't know which one I have done. Will be dissapointed if I find out I have not climbed a 7c.
Dangerous Dave - 20/Apr/11
Please note the grades for Marlina and Marlina original are the wrong way round
sheppy - 11/Jan/11
Bolts are all back in as of 25.07.09
sheppy - 30/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Ash Tree Wall
-
VD 6
2Tiff Off
-
VS *9
3Central RouteVS 13
4Central Route, Variation Start
-
VS 5a 1
5Bullet
-
E1 *1
6Bullet Direct Start
-
E1 * 
7Direct Route
-
S 8
8Direct route (Variation start)VS 4b *6
9Jungle Jim
-
VS 2
10Twister
-
HS 1
11Little Gem
-
S 2
12Hedgehog
-
VS 4c 1
13Worms
-
VD  
14Just for Laughs
-
E2 5b  
15Alternative Comedy
-
E1 5b 2
16The Cludge
-
VS 4c 6
17In the Shrubbery
-
E1 5b *2
18Secret Affair
-
HVS 5a  
19Stay Hungry
-
E4 6b *1
20Civer
-
E4 6b *7
21The Stank
-
E1 *3
22Kaituma
-
HVS  
23Cabaret
-
E1  
24Wot Gorilla
-
E1  
25The Hood
-
VS **89
26The Hood Direct
-
HVS *41
27Fuck FaceHVS **119
28The Stripper
-
HVS  
29Grappler's Groove
-
HS 1
30Shikari Rib
-
HVS 5a  
31Geronimo
-
E1 5a 1
32Grot
-
S 1
33Cherry Tree Ridge
-
D *3
34Cherry Tree Ridge Direct FinishS *9
35Paramour's Rib
-
E1 5a *1
36Dram
-
E1 5b  
37Tremendous Applause
-
E1 5b  
38Dhias
-
HVS 5a  
39Hot Line Direct
-
E2 5b  
40Evening Hot Line
-
E1 5c 1
41Morningside Warm Up
-
HVS 5a 2
42Sweaty Time Blues
-
E3 5c  
43Working Up A Sweat
-
E5 6b * 
44Chopping and Changing
-
E1 5b * 
45Generous Offering
-
E3 5c * 
46Sinners Paradise7a *3
47Six Fours-les Plage
-
6b 24
48Fear of the Dark
-
6b 25
49Father Figure
-
6b+ 17
50Left Edge
-
MVS 4b 1
51HosHVS 5a 1
52Sore Fingers
-
E1 5b 1
53Lilly White Lilleth
-
HVS 5b 5
54Sidewinder
-
S 4
55The RampHS *91
56Lily LangtryE2 5b *33
57Ring Piece
-
E5 6a  
58Gotterdammerung
-
E4 5c 1
59Voie de l'Amie
-
E3 5c **10
60Could It Be ForeverE4 5c ** 
61Hang OutE2 5b *18
62Tiggy McGregor's Moist AdventureE5 6b * 
63The Pied Piper
-
E3 ***2
64One Size Fits All
-
E4 6a  
65Lady CharlotteE5 6a,5c ***44
66Lady Charlotte DirectE5 6b **7
67Rat Catcher
-
E3 5b ***35
68Necrophilia
-
E5 6a 2
69In Loving MemoryE6 6b **6
70Mousetrap
-
E4 6b *6
71Sexy Lady
-
E4 6a  
72MorbidezzaE5 6b ***16
73WarfarinE2 5c, 5b ***133
74Rat RaceE4 6a, 5b ***115
75Rat Race Direct FinishE4 6a **5
76Marlina
-
7c ***129
77Marlina Original7c **45
78Silk Teddies
-
7c *90
79Ching,
-
8a *4
80Ultima Necat
-
7b+ **71
81Hamish Teddy's Excellent Adventure7b+ **295
82The Silk Purse
-
7c+ ***77
83Fall Out Direct
-
7b+ *1
84Fall Out Original
-
7b *1
85The Crossing
-
E4 6b  
86Baled Out
-
E4 6b 1
87Squirm DirectE3 **72
88Stand Clear
-
E2 5a 3
89Squirm
-
E1 *125
90Corpse
-
E2 5c **149
91Corpse Left-hand Finish
-
E2 5b 4
92Post Mortem
-
E4 6b 3
93Coffin CornerHVS 5a **312
94Natural High
-
E7 6b ***6
95High PerformanceE3 6a **91
96High-er Performance?E6 6b *3
97Death's HeadE1 5c **184
98CrutchS **195
99Marjorie RazorbladeE3 6a,5a **102
100NoddyVD 10
101FlookVD *85
102FlukeS 4a 8
103Method ManE3 5b 3
104TumbleweedE2 5c *29
105Summer DaysE3 5c *39
106All Passion Spent
-
E4 6a *21
107Laughing GnomeE5 5c *33
108GnomeE1 5b **154
109The Stoned Gnome ConnectionE2 5c **4
110TombstoneE2 5c **53
111Epitaph
-
E1 5b 23
112An Electric Feelf7B+ **1
113The Back Up PlanVD 2
114Prowed Scotsmanf6A 1
115Marlene Ultima Purse7c+  
116Marlenas purse7c **3
117The Silk Purse Direct7c+  
118Ultima Direct7b+ **25

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