Dunkeld, Cave Crag

Climbs 117 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Upper Cave Crag is an overhanging crag that offers some superb, steep routes. Recommended: Rat Race E4, Marlina 7b+.

25.07.09 The missing bolts have been replaced on all routes with the exception of Ching, the very eliminate 8a.

Also accessed from the same car park as Upper Cave Crag are Lover's Leap, Even Lower Cave Crag and Lower Cave Crag. For logbook purposes I have included routes for these crags as well, in the order they appear in the SMC guidebook.

Access notes
The crags are best accessed from the Forestry Commission car park at NO023437, reached off the A923 Dunkeld to Blairgowrie road. Felling operations may require detours from the approach routes given in the guidebook.

Can also be accessed as for Craig a Barns and then follow a complex path through the woods.

Guidebooks
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012), Highland Outcrops (1998), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Ash Tree WallVD
2Tiff OffVS *
3Central RouteVS
4Central Route, Variation StartVS 5a
5BulletE1 *
6Bullet Direct StartE1 *
7Direct RouteS
8Direct route (Variation start)VS 4b *
9Jungle JimVS
10TwisterHS
11Little GemS
12HedgehogVS 4c
13WormsVD
14Just for LaughsE2 5b
15Alternative ComedyE1 5b
16The CludgeVS 4c
17In the ShrubberyE1 5b *
18Secret AffairHVS 5a
19Stay HungryE4 6b *
20CiverE4 6b *
21The StankE1 *
22KaitumaHVS
23CabaretE1
24Wot GorillaE1
25The HoodVS **
26The Hood DirectHVS *
27Fuck FaceHVS **
28The StripperHVS
29Grappler's GrooveHS
30Shikari RibHVS 5a
31GeronimoE1 5a
32GrotS
33Cherry Tree RidgeD *
34Cherry Tree Ridge Direct FinishS *
35Paramour's RibE1 5a *
36DramE1 5b
37Tremendous ApplauseE1 5b
38DhiasHVS 5a
39Hot Line DirectE2 5b
40Evening Hot LineE1 5c
41Morningside Warm UpHVS 5a
42Sweaty Time BluesE3 5c
43Working Up A SweatE5 6b *
44Chopping and ChangingE1 5b *
45Generous OfferingE3 5c *
46Sinners Paradise7a *
47Six Fours-les Plage6b
48Fear of the Dark6b
49Father Figure6b+
50Left EdgeMVS 4b
51HosHVS 5a
52Sore FingersE1 5b
53Lilly White LillethHVS 5b
54SidewinderS
55The RampHS *
56Lily LangtryE2 5b *
57Ring PieceE5 6a
58GotterdammerungE4 5c
59Voie de l'AmieE3 5c **
60Could It Be ForeverE4 5c **
61Hang OutE2 5b *
62Tiggy McGregor's Moist AdventureE5 6b *
63The Pied PiperE3 ***
64One Size Fits AllE4 6a
65Lady CharlotteE5 6a,5c ***
66Lady Charlotte DirectE5 6b **
67Rat CatcherE3 5b ***
68NecrophiliaE5 6a
69In Loving MemoryE6 6b **
70MousetrapE4 6b *
71Sexy LadyE4 6a
72MorbidezzaE5 6b ***
73WarfarinE2 5c, 5b ***
74Rat RaceE4 6a, 5b ***
75Rat Race Direct FinishE4 6a **
76Marlina7b+ ***
77Marlina Original7c **
78Silk Teddies7c *
79Ching,8a *
80Ultima Necat7b+ **
81Hamish Teddy's Excellent Adventure7b+ **
82The Silk Purse7c+ ***
83Fall Out Direct7b+ *
84Fall Out Original7b *
85The CrossingE4 6b
86Baled OutE4 6b
87Squirm DirectE3 **
88Stand ClearE2 5a
89SquirmE1 *
90CorpseE2 5c **
91Corpse Left-hand FinishE2 5b
92Post MortemE4 6b
93Coffin CornerHVS 5a **
94Natural HighE7 6b ***
95High PerformanceE3 6a **
96High-er Performance?E6 6b *
97Death's HeadE2 5c **
98CrutchS **
99Marjorie RazorbladeE3 6a,5a **
100NoddyVD
101FlookVD *
102FlukeS 4a
103Method ManE3 5b
104TumbleweedE2 5b *
105Summer DaysE3 5c *
106All Passion SpentE4 6a *
107Laughing GnomeE5 5c *
108GnomeE1 5b **
109The Stoned Gnome ConnectionE2 5c **
110TombstoneE2 5c **
111EpitaphE1 5b
112An Electric Feelf7B+ **
113The Back Up PlanVD
114Prowed Scotsmanf6A
115Marlene Ultima Purse7c+
116The Silk Purse Direct7c+
117Ultima Direct7b+ **
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ian Jones

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Actually the original climbs directly from the ring bolt (old bolt 2) to bolt 4 Climbing from 3 to 4 going right rather than up left and back right is easier in some peoples opinion so does not make any difference to grade.
sheppy - 22/May/14
Original goes more direct, moving rightwards and up, from the 3rd to 4th bolts, using the crystally pockets & crimps & a big reach to gain the jug below the 4th bolt. The other 7b+ variant (ie non-original) loops out to the left from the big undercling at the 3rd bolt on larger holds, but takes longer to get to the next clip. FWIW, I don't reckon there's much difference in difficulty either way, the crux is still to come at the finish!
Fraser - 01/May/11
What is the differance between Marlina and Marlina Original? I now don't know which one I have done. Will be dissapointed if I find out I have not climbed a 7c.
Dangerous Dave - 20/Apr/11
Please note the grades for Marlina and Marlina original are the wrong way round
sheppy - 11/Jan/11
Bolts are all back in as of 25.07.09
sheppy - 30/Jul/09
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 18/Dec/2013
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