Dunkeld, Cave Crag

Climbs 117 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Upper Cave Crag is an overhanging crag that offers some superb, steep routes. Recommended: Rat Race E4, Marlina 7c.

25.07.09 The missing bolts have been replaced on all routes with the exception of Ching, the very eliminate 8a.

Also accessed from the same car park as Upper Cave Crag are Lover's Leap, Even Lower Cave Crag and Lower Cave Crag. For logbook purposes I have included routes for these crags as well, in the order they appear in the SMC guidebook.

Approach notes
The crags are best accessed from the Forestry Commission car park at NO023437, reached off the A923 Dunkeld to Blairgowrie road. Felling operations may require detours from the approach routes given in the guidebook.

Can also be accessed as for Craig a Barns and then follow a complex path through the woods.

7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ (2015), Highland Outcrops (1998), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: 7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Ash Tree WallVD 7
2Tiff OffVS *5
3Central RouteVS 11
4Central Route, Variation StartVS 5a 1
5BulletE1 *1
6Bullet Direct StartE1 * 
7Direct RouteS 7
8Direct route (Variation start)VS 4b *6
9Jungle JimVS 2
10TwisterHS 1
11Little GemS 2
12HedgehogVS 4c 1
14Just for LaughsE2 5b  
15Alternative ComedyE1 5b 2
16The CludgeVS 4c 4
17In the ShrubberyE1 5b *2
18Secret AffairHVS 5a  
19Stay HungryE4 6b *1
20CiverE4 6b *6
21The StankE1 *3
24Wot GorillaE1  
25The HoodVS **77
26The Hood DirectHVS *36
27Fuck FaceHVS **90
28The StripperHVS  
29Grappler's GrooveHS 1
30Shikari RibHVS 5a  
31GeronimoE1 5a 1
32GrotS 1
33Cherry Tree RidgeD *4
34Cherry Tree Ridge Direct FinishS *7
35Paramour's RibE1 5a *1
36DramE1 5b  
37Tremendous ApplauseE1 5b  
38DhiasHVS 5a  
39Hot Line DirectE2 5b  
40Evening Hot LineE1 5c 1
41Morningside Warm UpHVS 5a 2
42Sweaty Time BluesE3 5c  
43Working Up A SweatE5 6b * 
44Chopping and ChangingE1 5b * 
45Generous OfferingE3 5c * 
46Sinners Paradise7a *3
47Six Fours-les Plage6b 22
48Fear of the Dark6b 20
49Father Figure6b+ 15
50Left EdgeMVS 4b 1
51HosHVS 5a 1
52Sore FingersE1 5b 1
53Lilly White LillethHVS 5b 5
54SidewinderS 4
55The RampHS *82
56Lily LangtryE2 5b *25
57Ring PieceE5 6a  
58GotterdammerungE4 5c 1
59Voie de l'AmieE3 5c **10
60Could It Be ForeverE4 5c ** 
61Hang OutE2 5b *16
62Tiggy McGregor's Moist AdventureE5 6b * 
63The Pied PiperE3 ***2
64One Size Fits AllE4 6a  
65Lady CharlotteE5 6a,5c ***37
66Lady Charlotte DirectE5 6b **7
67Rat CatcherE3 5b ***29
68NecrophiliaE5 6a 2
69In Loving MemoryE6 6b **5
70MousetrapE4 6b *6
71Sexy LadyE4 6a  
72MorbidezzaE5 6b ***12
73WarfarinE2 5c, 5b ***110
74Rat RaceE4 6a, 5b ***93
75Rat Race Direct FinishE4 6a **5
76Marlina7c ***94
77Marlina Original7b+ **41
78Silk Teddies7c *77
79Ching,8a *2
80Ultima Necat7b+ **56
81Hamish Teddy's Excellent Adventure7b+ **232
82The Silk Purse7c+ ***56
83Fall Out Direct7b+ *1
84Fall Out Original7b *1
85The CrossingE4 6b  
86Baled OutE4 6b 1
87Squirm DirectE3 **63
88Stand ClearE2 5a 2
89SquirmE1 *98
90CorpseE2 5c **124
91Corpse Left-hand FinishE2 5b 4
92Post MortemE4 6b 3
93Coffin CornerHVS 5a **259
94Natural HighE7 6b ***4
95High PerformanceE3 6a **70
96High-er Performance?E6 6b *3
97Death's HeadE2 5c **158
98CrutchS **165
99Marjorie RazorbladeE3 6a,5a **95
100NoddyVD 11
101FlookVD *74
102FlukeS 4a 9
103Method ManE3 5b 2
104TumbleweedE2 5b *21
105Summer DaysE3 5c *27
106All Passion SpentE4 6a *19
107Laughing GnomeE5 5c *27
108GnomeE1 5b **119
109The Stoned Gnome ConnectionE2 5c **3
110TombstoneE2 5c **47
111EpitaphE1 5b 17
112An Electric Feelf7B+ **1
113The Back Up PlanVD 2
114Prowed Scotsmanf6A 1
115Marlene Ultima Purse7c+  
116The Silk Purse Direct7c+  
117Ultima Direct7b+ **23
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Actually the original climbs directly from the ring bolt (old bolt 2) to bolt 4 Climbing from 3 to 4 going right rather than up left and back right is easier in some peoples opinion so does not make any difference to grade.
sheppy - 22/May/14
Original goes more direct, moving rightwards and up, from the 3rd to 4th bolts, using the crystally pockets & crimps & a big reach to gain the jug below the 4th bolt. The other 7b+ variant (ie non-original) loops out to the left from the big undercling at the 3rd bolt on larger holds, but takes longer to get to the next clip. FWIW, I don't reckon there's much difference in difficulty either way, the crux is still to come at the finish!
Fraser - 01/May/11
What is the differance between Marlina and Marlina Original? I now don't know which one I have done. Will be dissapointed if I find out I have not climbed a 7c.
Dangerous Dave - 20/Apr/11
Please note the grades for Marlina and Marlina original are the wrong way round
sheppy - 11/Jan/11
Bolts are all back in as of 25.07.09
sheppy - 30/Jul/09