Interesting routes up to 70ft. Both the sea cliff (non-tidal boulder beach) and quarries are cold but dry in the winter, cool in summer. Natural protection usually involves threads and/or flakes. There are an increasing number of sports routes in the quarries, some of which (the main wall of Sugar Mountain in particular) stay dry in all but the heaviest rain...although your belayer may not!
*** SCHEDULE 1 BIRD BREEDING IN QUARRY MARCH TO AUGUST ***
Take the A3022 twds Brixham past a white weatherboard house on the R. Take the first L turn (signposted Fishcombe Cove). 0.5mi further, after a one-way section, is a car park on the L.
Take the footpath past holiday chalets to a woody hillside, and follow it RW through the trees to the shingle beach - Fishcombe Cove. The crags lie on the far side of its grassy shoulder.
The sea cliffs are reached directly from the shoulder via a faint path.
The first quarry is reached by following the main path up to where it meets the fence at the edge of a golf course then following the fence for 100yds until a small path leads down to a scramble into the quarry.
While it is possible to traverse the base of the quarries with reasonable ease, by far the best approach to Sugar Mountain (and Supercalorific Quarry) is to continue along the coastpath for about 400m. The path makes an obvious climb at this point (tree routes on the L hand side of the path), then flattens out. As you start to descend a couple of paths lead off R into the trees. These lead to the top of Sugar Mountain. Less than 20m beyond, a vague path leads R along a lumpy shoulder to a point where a straightforward descent can be made to the base of the cliff. If you see a tree with an obvious knot in it facing you, you have gone too far...the path to the descent is just behind you!
From the base of Sugar Mountain, it is easy to walk to the bottom of the quarry and round into the Supercalorific quarry.
|3||Merlin Rocket||HVS 5a||2|
|8||Born Toulouse||E4 6b *||1|
|9||The Impressionist||E5 6b|
|10||Monet for Old Rope||E2 5c||7|
|11||Freudian Gymslip||E1 5b|
|12||Beware the Sphinx||VS 4b|
|13||Great Dane||S 4a *|
|14||Barking Mad||E2 5b|
|15||The Gambler||E3 6a *|
|16||Bloodhound||E2 5c *|
|17||Trism||E4 6a **|
|18||Junebug||E4 6b *|
|19||The Corner||E3 5c|
|20||Roar Like Sushi||7c+ **|
|22||A Moment Spent Talking||E5 6b/c|
|23||Aretez Vous||E4 6b **|
|25||Billy Crystal Cluster||7a **||4|
|26||Stan Coliform||7c ***|
|27||Mackerel Stevens||7c ***||1|
|28||Krushmi Chheda||7c+ ***|
|29||Bob Handhold||6c **||5|
|30||Macca's Route||7a+ **||6|
|32||Ragged Glory||6b *||7|
|33||Gene Parmesan||7b+ **||1|
|35||See-Saw Sundays||7c **|
|37||Standing on the Shoulders of Giants||HVS 4c *|
|38||Salmon Run||E2 6a|
|39||Satanic Traversities||E3 6a||1|
|40||The Invisible Man||E3 6a **|
|41||No Holds Barred||7a+ ***||4|
|44||Walking Tall||E3 5b||3|
|45||Cream Tea Special||HVS 4c||5|
|46||Bearing Down||E5 6b *||2|
|48||Spurting Wildly||HS 4a|
|49||There She Blows||7b *|
|50||Ramming Speed||E1 5b|
|51||Ace of Diamonds||V2 *|
|52||Squige||V3 6a **|
|53||6b Link||6b **||3|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|Project now completed - Stan Coliform (probably the best route at Sugar Mountain). Just one more line left (and then the 73 link ups!). Unfortunately the side wall is now seeping, main face dry as a bone after heavy rain yesterday.|
tomrainbow - 08/Oct/14
|Cheers Milkman (whoever you are).
There's still an unclimbed project in the middle of the side wall. It has got tape on the first bolt. Please leave this for the time being (I hope to complete this on Saturday).|
tomrainbow - 02/Oct/14
|For the new sport routes which Tom and team have done a fab job of cleaning and bolting. Thanks for the effort.
400 strides from the signpost at the top of the steps when you come up from the beach. There is a tree in front of you with obvious knot at 10ft. Prior to this tree by 10/15m there is a slight path follow this and it leads to the left side of the crag. Get down there and get on them, cheers Tom|
Milkman - 02/Oct/14
|Please do not access the first quarry (Bloodhound) as there are nesting birds which are easily disturbed March - August. Thanks|
sebloram - 03/May/11
|Is there any access problems here or is climbing allowed here all year round?
Ellis Butler-Barker - 28/Feb/11