Churston (Sea cliffs and quarries)

Climbs 48 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 30m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Interesting routes up to 70ft. Both the sea cliff (non-tidal boulder beach) and quarries are cold but dry in the winter, cool in summer. Natural protection usually involves threads and/or flakes. There are an increasing number of sports routes in the quarries, some of which (the main wall of Sugar Mountain in particular) stay dry in all but the heaviest rain...although your belayer may not!

*** SCHEDULE 1 BIRD BREEDING IN QUARRY MARCH TO AUGUST ***

Access notes
Take the A3022 twds Brixham past a white weatherboard house on the R. Take the first L turn (signposted Fishcombe Cove). 0.5mi further, after a one-way section, is a car park on the L.

Take the footpath past holiday chalets to a woody hillside, and follow it RW through the trees to the shingle beach - Fishcombe Cove. The crags lie on the far side of its grassy shoulder.

The sea cliffs are reached directly from the shoulder via a faint path.

The first quarry is reached by following the main path up to where it meets the fence at the edge of a golf course then following the fence for 100yds until a small path leads down to a scramble into the quarry.

While it is possible to traverse the base of the quarries with reasonable ease, by far the best approach to Sugar Mountain (and Supercalorific Quarry) is to continue along the coastpath for about 400m. The path makes an obvious climb at this point (tree routes on the L hand side of the path), then flattens out. As you start to descend a couple of paths lead off R into the trees. These lead to the top of Sugar Mountain. Less than 20m beyond, a vague path leads R along a lumpy shoulder to a point where a straightforward descent can be made the the base of the cliff. If you see a tree with an obvious knot in it facing you, you have gone too far...the path to the descent is just behind you!

From the base of Sugar Mountain, it is easy to walk to the bottom of the quarry and round into the Supercalorific quarry.

Guidebooks
South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SEA CLIFFS  
2GremlinVS 4b 1
3Merlin RocketHVS 5a 2
4HornetVS 4c 1
5EnterpriseS 4a  
6SurpriseE1 5b 1
 BLOODHOUND QUARRY  
8Born ToulouseE4 6b *1
9The ImpressionistE5 6b  
10Monet for Old RopeE2 5c 7
11Freudian GymslipE1 5b  
12Beware the SphinxVS 4b  
13Great DaneS 4a * 
14Barking MadE2 5b  
15The GamblerE3 6a * 
16BloodhoundE2 5c * 
17TrismE4 6a ** 
18JunebugE4 6b * 
19The CornerE3 5c  
20Roar Like Sushi7c+ ** 
21Warpath7a+ *1
22A Moment Spent TalkingE5 6b/c  
23Aretez VousE4 6b ** 
 SUGAR MOUNTAIN  
25Billy Crystal Cluster7a **3
26Stan Coliform7c *** 
27Mackerel Stevens7c ***1
28Krushmi Chheda7c+ *** 
29Bob Handhold6c **5
30Macca's Route7a+ **5
31Powderfinger6b *7
32Ragged Glory6b *5
33Gene Parmesan7b+ **1
 SUPERCALORIFIC QUARRY  
35SlipshodVS 4b  
36Standing on the Shoulders of GiantsHVS 4c * 
37Salmon RunE2 6a  
38Satanic TraversitiesE3 6a 1
39The Invisible ManE3 6a ** 
40No Holds Barred7a+ ***4
41Chocology7c *4
42Supercalorific6b+ **42
43Walking TallE3 5b 3
44Cream Tea SpecialHVS 4c 5
45Bearing DownE5 6b *2
46Raph's RouteVD  
47Spurting WildlyHS 4a  
48There She Blows7b * 
49Ramming SpeedE1 5b  
50Ace of DiamondsV2 * 
51SquigeV3 6a ** 
526b Link6b **3
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomrainbow

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Project now completed - Stan Coliform (probably the best route at Sugar Mountain). Just one more line left (and then the 73 link ups!). Unfortunately the side wall is now seeping, main face dry as a bone after heavy rain yesterday.
tomrainbow - 08/Oct/14
Cheers Milkman (whoever you are). There's still an unclimbed project in the middle of the side wall. It has got tape on the first bolt. Please leave this for the time being (I hope to complete this on Saturday).
tomrainbow - 02/Oct/14
For the new sport routes which Tom and team have done a fab job of cleaning and bolting. Thanks for the effort. 400 strides from the signpost at the top of the steps when you come up from the beach. There is a tree in front of you with obvious knot at 10ft. Prior to this tree by 10/15m there is a slight path follow this and it leads to the left side of the crag. Get down there and get on them, cheers Tom
Milkman - 02/Oct/14
Please do not access the first quarry (Bloodhound) as there are nesting birds which are easily disturbed March - August. Thanks
sebloram - 03/May/11
Is there any access problems here or is climbing allowed here all year round? Thanks, Ellis (:
Ellis Butler-Barker - 28/Feb/11
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 16/Oct/2014
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