Climbs 68
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 30m a.s.l
Faces N

The face of a champion! © tomrainbow

Crag features

Interesting routes up to 70ft. Both the sea cliff (non-tidal boulder beach) and quarries are cold but dry in the winter, cool in summer. Natural protection usually involves threads and/or flakes. There are an increasing number of sports routes in the quarries, some of which (the main wall of Sugar Mountain in particular) stay dry in all but the heaviest rain...although your belayer may not!

*** SCHEDULE 1 BIRD BREEDING IN BLOODHOUND QUARRY MARCH TO AUGUST...in addition, avoid the routes Raor Like Sushi and Warpath for the time being as the peregrine nest is immediately above this wall. There are lots of other options!***

 

Approach notes

Take the A3022 twds Brixham past a white weatherboard house on the R. Take the first L turn (signposted Fishcombe Cove). 0.5mi further, after a one-way section, is a car park on the L.
Take the footpath past holiday chalets to a woody hillside, and follow it RW through the trees to the shingle beach - Fishcombe Cove. The crags lie on the far side of its grassy shoulder.

The sea cliffs are reached directly from the shoulder via a faint path.

The first quarry is reached by following the main path up to where it meets the fence at the edge of a golf course then following the fence for 100yds until a small path leads down to a scramble into the quarry.

While it is possible to traverse the base of the quarries with reasonable ease, by far the best approach to Sugar Mountain (and Supercalorific Quarry) is to continue along the coastpath for about 400m. The path makes an obvious climb at this point (tree routes on the L hand side of the path), then flattens out. As you start to descend a couple of paths lead off R into the trees. These lead to the top of Sugar Mountain. Less than 20m beyond, a vague path leads R along a lumpy shoulder to a point where a straightforward descent can be made to the base of the cliff. If you see a tree with an obvious knot in it facing you, you have gone too far...the path to the descent is just behind you!

From the base of Sugar Mountain, it is easy to walk to the bottom of the quarry and round into the Supercalorific quarry.

Much better and more interesting climbing than it looks.
ferdia - 18/Jan/15
Project now completed - Stan Coliform (probably the best route at Sugar Mountain). Just one more line left (and then the 73 link ups!). Unfortunately the side wall is now seeping, main face dry as a bone after heavy rain yesterday.
tomrainbow - 08/Oct/14
Cheers Milkman (whoever you are). There's still an unclimbed project in the middle of the side wall. It has got tape on the first bolt. Please leave this for the time being (I hope to complete this on Saturday).
tomrainbow - 02/Oct/14
For the new sport routes which Tom and team have done a fab job of cleaning and bolting. Thanks for the effort. 400 strides from the signpost at the top of the steps when you come up from the beach. There is a tree in front of you with obvious knot at 10ft. Prior to this tree by 10/15m there is a slight path follow this and it leads to the left side of the crag. Get down there and get on them, cheers Tom
Milkman - 02/Oct/14
Please do not access the first quarry (Bloodhound) as there are nesting birds which are easily disturbed March - August. Thanks
sebloram - 03/May/11
Is there any access problems here or is climbing allowed here all year round? Thanks, Ellis (:
Ellis Butler-Barker - 28/Feb/11
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sea Cliffs 
2GremlinVS 4b 1
3Merlin Rocket
-
HVS 5a 2
4HornetVS 4c 1
5Enterprise
-
S 4a  
6Surprise
-
E1 5b 1
 Bloodhound Quarry 
8Born Toulouse
-
E4 6b *1
9The Impressionist
-
E5 6b  
10Monet for Old Rope
-
E2 5c 7
11Freudian Gymslip
-
E1 5b  
12Beware the Sphinx
-
VS 4b  
13Great Dane
-
S 4a * 
14Barking Mad
-
E2 5b  
15The Gambler
-
E3 6a * 
16Bloodhound
-
E2 5c * 
17Trism
-
E4 6a ** 
18Junebug
-
E4 6b * 
19The Corner
-
E3 5c  
20Roar Like Sushi7c+ ** 
21Warpath7a+ *1
 Jungleland Quarry 
23A Moment Spent TalkingE5 6b/c  
24Aretez VousE4 6b ** 
25Metalwasp6c+ **3
26The Jungle Line6b+ *7
 Project Quarry 
28Whizz Bang Kissy Kissy7b **1
29Crystal Palace6c+ *1
 Sugar Mountain 
31Sidewall Traversef6C *1
32Arete Butler6c+ *16
33Billy Crystal Cluster7a **19
34Stan Coliform7c **4
35Martin Launderette6a *25
36Mackerel Stevens7c ***2
37Krushmi Chheda7c+ ***5
38Bob Handhold6c **24
39Macca's Route7a+ **26
40Powderfinger6b *43
41Ragged Glory6b *43
42Gene Parmesan7b+ **9
 Sugar Mountain Slab 
44Picnic Blanket Bobsleigh6a+ 32
45Work-Life-Balance6b+ *11
46Thanks To Bob5a *24
 Supercalorific Quarry 
48Redstone Traversef7A **4
49Helter Skelter7b+ **3
50Salami Wall8a **6
51See-Saw Sundays7c ***17
52Slipshod
-
VS 4b 1
53Standing on the Shoulders of GiantsHVS 4c *2
54Salmon Run
-
E2 6a  
55Satanic Traversities
-
E3 6a 1
56The Invisible Man
-
E3 6a ** 
57No Holds Barred7a+ ***13
58Chocology7c *4
59Supercalorific6a+ ***89
60Walking Tall
-
E3 5b 3
616b Link6b **7
62Cream Tea Special
-
HVS 4c 5
63Bearing Down
-
E5 6b *2
64Bering Straight7a+ *16
65Raph's Route
-
VD  
66Spurting Wildly
-
HS 4a  
67There She Blows
-
7b * 
68Ramming Speed
-
E1 5b  
69Ace of Diamonds
-
V2 * 
70Squigef6A+ ** 
71Megrimf7A 3
72Megrim sit startf7A+ 2
73Torbay solef7A+ 2
74Right no arÍtef6A+ 3
75Right arÍtef5+ 3

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomrainbow