Creag Dubh, Newtonmore

Climbs 171 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 360m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Creag Dubh is one of Scotland's biggest and finest 'roadside' crag.

It is worth noting that the SMC refused to publish outcrop routes until the 1970's despite this being a major crag.

The schist with horizontal strata offers some wonderfully steep routes on big holds. Many of these routes are up to 3 pitches and can be intimidating, as they are very exposed and protection may be spaced.

The crag faces south and dries quickly, but weeps. Generally the rock is sound but sometimes blocky.

Creag Dubh is not a good choice for the beginner as there is little below Severe. However, from VS upwards the routes are good and the choice increases with the grade.

The midges can be dreadful during still days, and ticks abound in the bracken.

Access notes
Park at the layby opposite the obvious lake.

Guidebooks
Highland Outcrops (1998), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 LITTLE ROCK 2 
 BED TIME BUTTRESS 
3NegligeeVS 5a
4QuickieHVS 5a *
5Downtown LunchHVS **
6MountVD
7SideshowHVS 4c
8Unlawful BehaviourE2 5b
9JailbreakE3 5c
10First OffenceE4 5c **
11The Art of RelaxationE4 6a **
12Case DismissedE3 6a **
13CadillacE4 6a *
14C'est la VieE3 5c
15LegoverE2 5c
16GalaxyE4 6a **
17Ruff LicksE3 5c **
18AyatollahE4 6a ***
19ApathizerE5 6b **
20Muph DiveE3 5c *
21Muffin The Mule (Left Start )HVS 5a *
22Muffin the MuleE1 5a **
23Nobodies Fault but MineE4 *
24Down Town After LunchHVS 5a **
25CuckoldE2 5a *
26Most Girls DoE1 5a *
27PornE1 5a **
28GhamVS 4c
29SuccerE1 5a
30Bedtime GullyIII
 LITTLE ROCK 
32Mistaken IdentityMVS 4b
33Bulgarian BicepsHVS 5a
34Hungarian HamstringMVS *
35Cross Leaved HealthE5 6a *
36Heather WallE4 6a **
37This OneE4 6a *
38Un Petit MortE1 5b
 WATERFALL WALL 
40JadeE1 5b
41BrassS *
42SerendipityE3 5c
43JezebelE1 5b
44ZygoteE2 5c
45BrazenVS 5a
46Warmer than a Badger's BumE1 5b
47The Bum DirectHVS 5a
48The Badger DirectE2 5c
49Pattern of ViolenceE1 5b *
50On GuardE1 5c
51Take ThreeE2 5b
52CockquackHVS 4c
53CockadoodlemoobahquackVD
54Desperate TimesIV 5
55Oui Oui(Summer)VD
56Oui OuiII/III
57Golden ShowerVI ***
58OrinocoVS 4b
59ZambeziHVS 5a
60NiagaraE1 5b **
61Wet DreamsE2 5c **
62Wet Dreams/NiagaraE2 5c ***
63Not Before TimeE2 *
64Bratach UaineE4 6a **
65SnotragE6 6b *
66AcapulcoE4 6a ***
67IndependenceE3 5c **
68Face ValueE3 5c **
69EparS
70PareHVS 4c
71HayripiS *
72Crazy PavingE3 5b
73Tip OffVS 4c *
74AcrobatHVS 5a
75Show OffE1 5b *
76Take OffVS 4c *
77OffspringE1 5b *
78In Between TimesE3 5c **
79SmirnoffHVS 5a *
80RompVD
81Romp(Winter)IV 6
82Silk RoadIII
83TrampolineVS 5a
84BreakawayHVS **
85SilicosisE5 *
86ProbeE1 5b
87Straight LineHVS 5a
88Line UpVS
89Route Toot TootVS
90Easy GoingHVS 4c
 GREAT WALL 
92Men OnlyE2 *
93Run FreeE4 *
94King BeeVS 5a ***
95King Bee Direct StartHVS 5a ***
96Nutcracker ChimneyVS 4b
97ErseE3 **
98BruteVS 5a *
99Jump for JoyE2 5c **
100L.M.F.E1 **
101Organ GrinderE1 5b *
102OutspanE2 5b **
103King Tubby and the Fat Boy's RapE2 5b
104The FuhrerE4 5c **
105Colder Than a Hooker's heartE5 5c *
106Harder than your HusbandE5 6a *
107The Final SolutionE5 6a ***
108The HillE2 5b ***
109Over the HillE3 5c ***
110InbredHVS 5a ***
111Inbred Direct FinishE1 5b
112The ForceE2 5b
113StrapadicktaemiE1 5a **
114MingeE2 *
115MigraineHVS 5a
116BulgerE2 5c
117Rising DampE1 5b **
118Rising DampE1 5b **
119Great Wall GirdleHVS 5a
 LOWER CENTRAL WALL 
121Rib DirectVD *
122Sense of UrgencyE3 6b
123SnoopyHVS 5a
124Mighty PistonE1 5a
125Arch EnemyE4 5c *
126Ticket to RideE3 5b **
127NinjaE3 5b
128SweetnessHVS 4c
129CunnulinctusMVS
130Cunnulinctus (Sheath Variation)HVS 5a
131PhellatioHVS 5a **
132CentrespreadE1 5b *
133Tongue TwisterE1 5b *
134FiorellaHVS 4c *
135OddliHVS 5a
136MiradorS *
137FredVD
138Fred (winter)IV 5
139Scraping the BarrelVS 4c
140Goutes d' EauE2 5b *
141FeatherlightE1 5c
142ThymeVS 4c
143Man on FireE1 5b *
144Big JugsE2 5c **
145Wee Fried EggsE3 6a
146PshawHS
147Black ShadowHVS 4c
148The StingHVS 5b *
149GossamerHVS 4c
150PotatoD
151The FrustrationsE1 *
 SPRAWL WALL 
153SlabsvilleVS 4b
154Tree HeeS **
155Jump So HighE1 5b ***
156SeparationE2 5b *
157Jump So High DirectE2 ***
158Jump so High (Combination)E2 5c **
159Yes, Yes!E7
160Instant LemonE3 5c **
161Instant Lemon DirectE4 6a **
162Stoop so LowHVS 4c
163Slanting GrooveHVS 4c
164Concealed EntranceE2 5b
165Raven's SquawkHS
166FelixE2 *
167Jack the LadE2 *
168Footloose and Fancy FreeE4 **
169DesireE2 **
170HornetHVS 5a
171Gang BangHVS 5a
172Cream DreamE2 5b *
173Hot to TrotE1 *
174Free and EasyVS 4c
175Sprawl Wall Girdle TraverseE1 5b
 UNKNOWN CLIMBS 
177Were do all the calculators go HVS 4c,4c
178PrakS
179Ground ControlE3 5c
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer andymoin

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I doubt I will ever stop being amused by the SMC refusing to publish a guide to this back in the 70s. Such a major and high quality cliff, what were they thinking!
Fiend - 07/Oct/13
I've never seen so many ticks at a crag before, there were loads of the blighters crawling over our trousers! Only 3 (so far) seem to have found a way in...
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/07
A large rockfall at the left end of the great wall last year, has left the area around Run Free a bit loose and dodgy....i'm not sure of exact details but i think Run free is no longer possible.King Bee is still fine but care must be taken when abseiling from the top of the second pitch as you pass over the rock fall scar and there's a chance of further loose rock in the area. Overall an excellent crag,if your feeling fairly fit and you you like steep climbing on positive holds and don't mind the occasional run out...you will have a field day! The crag is south facing and in hot weather no amount of chalk will stop the holds feeling smooth and sweaty....best to head elsewhere in those conditions.The plus side of that is it dry's fairly quickly except the occasional seep. And to add to the must do list: Jump so high combination E1 5b The Hill E2 5b Over the Hill E3 5c The Furher E4 5c Bratach Uaine E4 6a Colder than a hookers Heart E5 5c (very scary) The Final solution E5 6a (also fairly scary) Not done anything on Bedtime buttress yet looks excellent though. Hope this is of some use. Russ.
Russell Birkett - 03/Feb/04
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These details were last updated on 10/Jun/2013

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