Climbs 201
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 360m a.s.l
Faces S

So close yet so far © andymoin

Crag features

Creag Dubh is one of Scotland's biggest and finest 'roadside' crag.
It is worth noting that the SMC refused to publish outcrop routes until the 1970's despite this being a major crag.

The schist with horizontal strata offers some wonderfully steep routes on big holds. Many of these routes are up to 3 pitches and can be intimidating, as they are very exposed and protection may be spaced.

The crag faces south and dries quickly, but weeps. Generally the rock is sound but sometimes blocky.

Creag Dubh is not a good choice for the beginner as there is little below Severe. However, from VS upwards the routes are good and the choice increases with the grade.

The midges can be dreadful during still days, and ticks abound in the bracken.

Approach notes

Park at the layby opposite the obvious lake - Loch you idiot! You're in Scotland!

I doubt I will ever stop being amused by the SMC refusing to publish a guide to this back in the 70s. Such a major and high quality cliff, what were they thinking!
Fiend - 07/Oct/13
I've never seen so many ticks at a crag before, there were loads of the blighters crawling over our trousers! Only 3 (so far) seem to have found a way in...
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/07
A large rockfall at the left end of the great wall last year, has left the area around Run Free a bit loose and dodgy....i'm not sure of exact details but i think Run free is no longer possible.King Bee is still fine but care must be taken when abseiling from the top of the second pitch as you pass over the rock fall scar and there's a chance of further loose rock in the area. Overall an excellent crag,if your feeling fairly fit and you you like steep climbing on positive holds and don't mind the occasional run out...you will have a field day! The crag is south facing and in hot weather no amount of chalk will stop the holds feeling smooth and sweaty....best to head elsewhere in those conditions.The plus side of that is it dry's fairly quickly except the occasional seep. And to add to the must do list: Jump so high combination E1 5b The Hill E2 5b Over the Hill E3 5c The Furher E4 5c Bratach Uaine E4 6a Colder than a hookers Heart E5 5c (very scary) The Final solution E5 6a (also fairly scary) Not done anything on Bedtime buttress yet looks excellent though. Hope this is of some use. Russ.
Russell Birkett - 03/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Bed Time Buttress 
 Lower Left Wall 
3Negligee
-
VS 5a 13
4Quickie
-
HVS 5a *7
5CamisoleE2 5c * 
6Downtown Lunch
-
HVS 5b **17
7Mount
-
VD 1
8Sideshow
-
HVS 4c  
 Upper Tier 
10Unlawful Behaviour
-
E2 5b  
11Jailbreak
-
E3 5c  
12RedwingsE4 6a  
13The VaingloriousE2 5c * 
14First Offence
-
E4 5c **8
15ZenE5 6a ***5
16The Atom of DelightE4 6a *2
17The Art of Relaxation
-
E4 6a **15
18Case Dismissed
-
E3 6a **31
19Case Dismissed Direct FinishE4 6a **12
20Cadillac
-
E4 6a *4
21CodaE2 5b *2
22CabrioletE4 5c * 
23Ca va?E3 5c *2
24C'est la Vie
-
E3 5c 6
25Carte blancheE2 5c **4
26LegoverE2 5c 5
27SubjugationE4 6a * 
28Galaxy
-
E4 6a **2
29Ruff Licks
-
E3 5c ***39
30These DaysE5 6b ** 
31Twenty Years from NowE5 6b ** 
32Apathizer
-
E5 6b **1
33AyeE7 6b ** 
34AyatollahE4 6a ***12
35Muph Dive
-
E2 5c **38
36TyrannyE3 5c 2
37Muffin The Mule (Left Start )E1 5b **12
38Muffin the Mule
-
E1 5c **30
39DisaffectionE2 5c *3
40Down Town After Lunch
-
HVS 5a **12
 Lower Right Wall 
42Cuckold
-
E2 5b *28
43Most Girls Do
-
E1 5a *13
44SylviaE2 5b * 
45Porn
-
E1 5a **40
46GhamVS 4c 4
47PhoenicurusE2 5c *1
48SuccerE1  
49PrakVS  
50Bedtime GullyIII 4
51Ground ControlE3 5c  
 Little Rock 
53Mistaken Identity
-
VS 4b 1
54Hungarian Hamstring
-
VS 4c *6
55Bulgarian BicepsHVS 5a 1
56Cross Leaved Health
-
E5 6a *1
57Heather Wall
-
E5 6a ** 
58This One
-
E5 6b * 
59Un Petit MortE2 5b *5
 Waterfall Wall 
61Jade
-
E1 5b 1
62Brass
-
HS 4a **3
63Serendipity
-
E3 5c *2
64Jezebel
-
E1 5b 1
65Zygote
-
E2 5c  
66Brazen
-
VS 5a 1
67Warmer than a Badger's Bum
-
E1 5b 1
68The Bum Direct
-
HVS 5a 1
69The Badger Direct
-
E2 5c 1
70Pattern of Violence
-
E1 5b *1
71On Guard
-
E2 5c 1
72Take Three
-
E2 5b *1
73Cockquack
-
HVS 4c  
74Cockadoodlemoobahquack
-
VD 1
75Desperate TimesIV 5 2
76Oui Oui(Summer)D **7
77Oui Oui
-
III **64
78Golden ShowerVI 6 *** 
79Orinoco
-
VS 4b  
80Zambezi
-
HVS 5a  
81Niagara
-
E1 5b **6
82Wet Dreams
-
E2 5c ***25
83Wet Dreams/NiagaraE2 5c ***8
84Not Before Time
-
E3 5c *1
85Bratach Uaine
-
E4 6a ***4
86Snotrag
-
E6 6b * 
87Acapulco
-
E4 6a ***23
88IndependenceE3 5c **7
89Face Value
-
E3 5c **9
90Epar
-
VS 4c **16
91Pare
-
HVS 4c *1
92Hayripi
-
S 4a **20
93Crazy Paving
-
E3 5b  
94Tip Off
-
VS 4c **32
95Acrobat
-
HVS 5a 1
96Show Off
-
E2 5b  
97Take Off
-
VS 4c 12
98Offspring
-
E2 5c *6
99In Between Times
-
E3 5c **4
100Smirnoff
-
E1 5a *22
101Romp
-
VD 4
102Romp(Winter)IV 6 2
103Silk RoadIII 2
 Ivy Walls 
105Trampoline
-
VS 5a  
106Breakaway
-
HVS 5a **13
107Silicosis
-
E5 6a * 
108ProbeE1 5b 4
109Straight Line
-
HVS 5a *1
110Line Up
-
HVS 5a *6
111Route Toot Toot
-
HVS 4b 1
112Easy Going
-
HVS 4c  
 Great Wall 
114Men Only
-
E2 5b **5
115Run FreeE4  
116King Bee
-
VS 5a ***308
117King Bee Direct StartHVS 5a ***121
118Nutcracker Chimney
-
VS 4b  
119Erse
-
E4 5c **20
120Jump for Joy
-
E2 5b **19
121Brute
-
VS 5a **143
122L.M.F.
-
E1 5b **43
123SuckmaboabyE1 5b * 
124Fou rireE3 6a ** 
125Organ Grinder
-
E1 5b *6
126Outspan
-
E2 5b **30
127King Tubby and the Fat Boy's Rap
-
E2 5b  
128The Fuhrer
-
E4 5c ***60
129Colder Than a Hooker's heartE5 5c **7
130Harder than your Husband
-
E5 6a *6
131The Final SolutionE5 6a ***15
132The HillE2 5b ***114
133Over the HillE3 5c ***57
134InbredHVS 5a ***346
135Inbred Direct Finish
-
E1 5b *2
136Strapadicktaemi
-
E1 5a **99
137The Force
-
E2 5b *1
138Minge
-
E2 5c *7
139Migraine
-
HVS 5a *2
140Bulger
-
E3 5c  
141Rising DampE1 5b **4
142Great Wall Girdle
-
HVS 5a 2
 Lower Central Wall 
144Rib Direct
-
S 4a *27
145Sense of Urgency
-
E3 6b  
146Snoopy
-
HVS 5a  
147Mighty Piston
-
E2 5a 1
148Arch Enemy
-
E4 5c  
149Ticket to RideE3 5b ***22
150Ninja
-
E3 5b *2
151Sweetness
-
E1 5a *4
152Cunnulinctus
-
VS 4c *37
153Cunnulinctus (Sheath Variation)E1 5a *7
154Phellatio
-
HVS 5a **87
155Scampi FriesE1 5a *2
156CentrespreadE2 5c *5
157Tongue Twister
-
E1 5a *4
158Fiorella
-
HVS 4c **17
159Oddli
-
E1 5a 5
160Mirador
-
S 4a *44
161Fred
-
VD 3
162Fred (winter)
-
IV 5 2
 Lower Right Wall 
164Scraping the Barrel
-
HVS 5a *2
165Oh de gooE2 5b * 
166Goutes d' Eau
-
E2 5b **5
167Featherlight
-
E1 5c *3
168Thyme
-
VS 4c *5
169Man on Fire
-
E1 5b **15
170Big JugsE2 5c * 
171The StingE1 5b *2
172Wee Fried EggsE3 6a  
173Pshaw
-
HS  
174Black Shadow
-
HVS 4c  
175Gossamer
-
HVS 4c 1
176PotatoD 4
 Sprawl Wall 
178Free and Easy
-
VS 4c  
179Cream Dream
-
E2 5b * 
180Gang Bang
-
HVS 5a *9
181Hot to Trot
-
E1 5b *4
182Hornet
-
HVS 5a *2
183Desire
-
E2 2
184Footloose and Fancy Free
-
E4  
185Jack the Lad
-
E2  
186Felix
-
E2  
187Raven's Squawk
-
VS 4b *7
188Concealed Entrance
-
E2 5c 1
189Slanting Groove
-
HVS 4c  
190Stoop so Low
-
HVS 4c 1
191Instant Lemon
-
E3 5c ** 
192MigrantsE5 6a *** 
193Instant Lemon DirectE5 6a ** 
194Yes, Yes!E7 6b * 
195The Meejies
-
E6 6b ** 
196Jump So High Direct
-
E2 5c ***31
197Separation
-
E2 5b * 
198ConclusionsE2 5c * 
199Jump So High
-
E1 5b **31
200GoateeE2 5c  
201HipstersE2 5c  
202Tree Hee DirectVS 4c **5
203Tree Hee 2nd Pitch VariantVS 4b *2
204Tree Hee 1st Pitch VariantVS 4c **2
205Tree Hee
-
HS 4a **111
206Giggling SlabVS 4c **2
207Slabsville
-
VS 4b *2
208Sprawl Wall Girdle Traverse
-
E1 5b  
 Unknown Climbs 
210The Frustrations
-
E1 * 
211Nobodies Fault but Mine
-
E4 * 
212Were do all the calculators goHVS 4c,4c 1
213Hands Off
-
E2 5c *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Liam Ingram and andymoin