Climbs 196
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 360m a.s.l
Faces S

So close yet so far © andymoin

Crag features

Creag Dubh is one of Scotland's biggest and finest 'roadside' crag.
It is worth noting that the SMC refused to publish outcrop routes until the 1970's despite this being a major crag.

The schist with horizontal strata offers some wonderfully steep routes on big holds. Many of these routes are up to 3 pitches and can be intimidating, as they are very exposed and protection may be spaced.

The crag faces south and dries quickly, but weeps. Generally the rock is sound but sometimes blocky.

Creag Dubh is not a good choice for the beginner as there is little below Severe. However, from VS upwards the routes are good and the choice increases with the grade.

The midges can be dreadful during still days, and ticks abound in the bracken.

Approach notes

Park at the layby opposite the obvious lake - Loch you idiot! You're in Scotland!

I doubt I will ever stop being amused by the SMC refusing to publish a guide to this back in the 70s. Such a major and high quality cliff, what were they thinking!
Fiend - 07/Oct/13
I've never seen so many ticks at a crag before, there were loads of the blighters crawling over our trousers! Only 3 (so far) seem to have found a way in...
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/07
A large rockfall at the left end of the great wall last year, has left the area around Run Free a bit loose and dodgy....i'm not sure of exact details but i think Run free is no longer possible.King Bee is still fine but care must be taken when abseiling from the top of the second pitch as you pass over the rock fall scar and there's a chance of further loose rock in the area. Overall an excellent crag,if your feeling fairly fit and you you like steep climbing on positive holds and don't mind the occasional run out...you will have a field day! The crag is south facing and in hot weather no amount of chalk will stop the holds feeling smooth and sweaty....best to head elsewhere in those conditions.The plus side of that is it dry's fairly quickly except the occasional seep. And to add to the must do list: Jump so high combination E1 5b The Hill E2 5b Over the Hill E3 5c The Furher E4 5c Bratach Uaine E4 6a Colder than a hookers Heart E5 5c (very scary) The Final solution E5 6a (also fairly scary) Not done anything on Bedtime buttress yet looks excellent though. Hope this is of some use. Russ.
Russell Birkett - 03/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Bed Time Buttress 
 Little Rock 2 
3Negligee
-
VS 5a 12
4Quickie
-
HVS 5a *7
5Downtown Lunch
-
HVS **14
6Mount
-
VD 1
7Sideshow
-
HVS 4c  
8Unlawful Behaviour
-
E2 5b  
9Jailbreak
-
E3 5c  
10First Offence
-
E4 5c **6
11The Art of Relaxation
-
E4 6a **12
12Case Dismissed
-
E3 6a **25
13Case Dismissed Direct FinishE4 6a **7
14Cadillac
-
E4 6a *1
15C'est la Vie
-
E3 5c 3
16LegoverE2 5c 5
17Galaxy
-
E4 6a **1
18Ruff Licks
-
E3 5c **34
19AyatollahE4 6a ***11
20Apathizer
-
E5 6b **1
21Muph Dive
-
E3 5c *27
22Muffin The Mule (Left Start )HVS 5a *10
23Muffin the Mule
-
E1 5a **20
24Nobodies Fault but Mine
-
E4 * 
25Down Town After Lunch
-
HVS 5a **5
26Cuckold
-
E2 5a *21
27Most Girls Do
-
E1 5a *8
28Porn
-
E1 5a **27
29GhamVS 4c 3
30Succer
-
E1 5a  
31Bedtime GullyIII 4
 Little Rock 
33Mistaken Identity
-
MVS 4b 1
34Bulgarian BicepsHVS 5a  
35Hungarian Hamstring
-
MVS *4
36Cross Leaved Health
-
E5 6a * 
37Heather Wall
-
E4 6a ** 
38This One
-
E4 6a * 
39Un Petit MortE1 5b 4
 Waterfall Wall 
41Jade
-
E1 5b 1
42Brass
-
S *3
43Serendipity
-
E3 5c 2
44Jezebel
-
E1 5b 1
45Zygote
-
E2 5c  
46Brazen
-
VS 5a 1
47Warmer than a Badger's Bum
-
E1 5b 1
48The Bum Direct
-
HVS 5a 1
49The Badger Direct
-
E2 5c 1
50Pattern of Violence
-
E1 5b *1
51On Guard
-
E1 5c 1
52Take Three
-
E2 5b 1
53Cockquack
-
HVS 4c  
54Cockadoodlemoobahquack
-
VD 1
55Desperate TimesIV 5 2
56Oui Oui(Summer)VD 2
57Oui Oui
-
II/III 64
58Golden ShowerVI *** 
59Orinoco
-
VS 4b  
60Zambezi
-
HVS 5a  
61Niagara
-
E1 5b **4
62Wet Dreams
-
E2 5c **25
63Wet Dreams/NiagaraE2 5c ***8
64Not Before Time
-
E2 *1
65Bratach Uaine
-
E4 6a **3
66Snotrag
-
E6 6b * 
67Acapulco
-
E4 6a ***23
68IndependenceE3 5c **6
69Face Value
-
E3 5c **6
70Epar
-
S 14
71Pare
-
HVS 4c 1
72Hayripi
-
S *19
73Crazy Paving
-
E3 5b  
74Tip Off
-
VS 4c *22
75Acrobat
-
HVS 5a 1
76Show Off
-
E1 5b * 
77Take Off
-
VS 4c *11
78Offspring
-
E1 5b *6
79In Between Times
-
E3 5c **2
80Smirnoff
-
HVS 5a *18
81Romp
-
VD 4
82Romp(Winter)IV 6 2
83Silk RoadIII 2
84Trampoline
-
VS 5a  
85Breakaway
-
HVS **11
86Silicosis
-
E5 * 
87ProbeE1 5b 3
88Straight Line
-
HVS 5a 1
89Line Up
-
VS 6
90Route Toot Toot
-
VS 1
91Easy Going
-
HVS 4c  
 Great Wall 
93Men Only
-
E2 *4
94Run Free
-
E4 * 
95King Bee
-
VS 5a ***257
96King Bee Direct StartHVS 5a ***93
97Nutcracker Chimney
-
VS 4b  
98Erse
-
E3 **19
99Brute
-
VS 5a *122
100Jump for Joy
-
E2 5c **15
101L.M.F.
-
E1 **39
102Organ Grinder
-
E1 5b *5
103Outspan
-
E2 5b **26
104King Tubby and the Fat Boy's Rap
-
E2 5b  
105The Fuhrer
-
E4 5c **52
106Colder Than a Hooker's heartE5 5c *7
107Harder than your Husband
-
E5 6a *6
108The Final SolutionE5 6a ***15
109The HillE2 5b ***95
110Over the HillE3 5c ***49
111InbredHVS 5a ***281
112Inbred Direct Finish
-
E1 5b 1
113The Force
-
E2 5b 1
114Strapadicktaemi
-
E1 5a **80
115Minge
-
E2 *7
116Migraine
-
HVS 5a 2
117Bulger
-
E2 5c  
118Rising DampE1 5b **4
119Great Wall Girdle
-
HVS 5a 2
 Lower Central Wall 
121Rib Direct
-
VD *25
122Sense of Urgency
-
E3 6b  
123Snoopy
-
HVS 5a  
124Mighty Piston
-
E1 5a 1
125Arch Enemy
-
E4 5c * 
126Ticket to RideE3 5b **15
127Ninja
-
E3 5b 2
128Sweetness
-
HVS 4c 4
129Cunnulinctus
-
MVS 32
130Cunnulinctus (Sheath Variation)HVS 5a 5
131Phellatio
-
HVS 5a **74
132CentrespreadE1 5b *5
133Tongue Twister
-
E1 5b *4
134Fiorella
-
HVS 4c *17
135Oddli
-
HVS 5a 5
136Mirador
-
S *38
137Fred
-
VD 3
138Fred (winter)
-
IV 5 2
139Scraping the Barrel
-
VS 4c 2
140Goutes d' Eau
-
E2 5b *4
141Featherlight
-
E1 5c 3
142Thyme
-
VS 4c 5
143Man on Fire
-
E1 5b *12
144Big JugsE2 5c ** 
145Wee Fried EggsE3 6a  
146Pshaw
-
HS  
147Black Shadow
-
HVS 4c  
148The StingHVS 5b *1
149Gossamer
-
HVS 4c 1
150PotatoD 4
151The Frustrations
-
E1 * 
 Sprawl Wall 
153Slabsville
-
VS 4b 2
154Tree Hee
-
S **90
155Jump So High
-
E1 5b ***16
156Separation
-
E2 5b * 
157Jump So High Direct
-
E2 ***16
158Jump so High (Combination)E2 5c **14
159Yes, Yes!E7  
160Instant Lemon
-
E3 5c ** 
161Instant Lemon DirectE4 6a ** 
162Stoop so Low
-
HVS 4c 1
163Slanting Groove
-
HVS 4c  
164Concealed Entrance
-
E2 5b  
165Raven's Squawk
-
HS 7
166Felix
-
E2 * 
167Jack the Lad
-
E2 * 
168Footloose and Fancy Free
-
E4 ** 
169Desire
-
E2 **2
170Hornet
-
HVS 5a 2
171Gang Bang
-
HVS 5a 9
172Cream Dream
-
E2 5b * 
173Hot to Trot
-
E1 *4
174Free and Easy
-
VS 4c  
175Sprawl Wall Girdle Traverse
-
E1 5b  
 Unknown Climbs 
177Were do all the calculators goHVS 4c,4c 1
178PrakS  
179Ground ControlE3 5c  
180Tree Hee 1st Pitch Variant *VS 4c **1
181Tree Hee 2nd Pitch Variant *VS 4b *1
182Tree Hee Direct *VS 4c **2
183Redwings *E4 6a  
184The Vainglorious *E2 5c * 
185Zen *E5 6asupe *** 
186The Atom of Delight *E4 6asupe  
187Coda *E2 5b  
188Cabriolet *E4 5c * 
189Ca va? *E3 5c * 
190Carte blanche *E2 5c **1
191Subjugation *E4 6asupe * 
192These Days *E5 6b ** 
193Twenty Years from Now *E5 6b ** 
194Aye *E7 6b ** 
195Tyranny *E3 5c * 
196Disaffection *E2 5c * 
197Camisole *E2 5c * 
198Sylvia *E1 5b * 
199Phoenicurus *E2 5c * 
200Oh de goo *E2 5b * 
201Migrants *E5 6a *** 
202Conclusions *E2 5c ** 
203Hipsters *E2 5c * 
204Goatee *E2 5c * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer andymoin