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Creag Dubh, Newtonmore Highland, SCOTLAND
Climbs 171 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 360m a.s.l – Faces S
Creag Dubh is one of Scotland's biggest and finest 'roadside' crag.
It is worth noting that the SMC refused to publish outcrop routes until the 1970's despite this being a major crag.
The schist with horizontal strata offers some wonderfully steep routes on big holds. Many of these routes are up to 3 pitches and can be intimidating, as they are very exposed and protection may be spaced.
The crag faces south and dries quickly, but weeps. Generally the rock is sound but sometimes blocky.
Creag Dubh is not a good choice for the beginner as there is little below Severe. However, from VS upwards the routes are good and the choice increases with the grade.
The midges can be dreadful during still days, and ticks abound in the bracken.
The many classics on the crag include:
Incubus E5 6a
Acapulco E4 6a
King Bee VS
Tree Hee S
Highland Outcrops (1998), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990)
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Park at the layby opposite the obvious lake.
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer andymoin
I've never seen so many ticks at a crag before, there were loads of the blighters crawling over our trousers! Only 3 (so far) seem to have found a way in...|
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/07
A large rockfall at the left end of the great wall last year, has left the area around Run Free a bit loose and dodgy....i'm not sure of exact details but i think Run free is no longer possible.King Bee is still fine but care must be taken when abseiling from the top of the second pitch as you pass over the rock fall scar and there's a chance of further loose rock in the area.
Overall an excellent crag,if your feeling fairly fit and you you like steep climbing on positive holds and don't mind the occasional run out...you will have a field day!
The crag is south facing and in hot weather no amount of chalk will stop the holds feeling smooth and sweaty....best to head elsewhere in those conditions.The plus side of that is it dry's fairly quickly except the occasional seep.
And to add to the must do list:
Jump so high combination E1 5b
The Hill E2 5b
Over the Hill E3 5c
The Furher E4 5c
Bratach Uaine E4 6a
Colder than a hookers Heart E5 5c (very scary)
The Final solution E5 6a (also fairly scary)
Not done anything on Bedtime buttress yet
looks excellent though.
Hope this is of some use.
Russell Birkett - 03/Feb/04