The Forth Valley's microscopic version of Fontainbleau! Three small buttresses of hard, clean and sound sandstone, with an unlikely setting on the edge of the flat sedimentary plains of the Carse. Flat grassy landings and a pleasant outlook make this a great place to spend a couple of hours, particularly on a sunny winters day.
Unless stated otherwise all the problems described are climbed from a sit start to make the most of the wee buttresses. The top of the crag and the bigger holds can gather a lot of debris from the trees so it's a good idea to take a soft brush to clear this before you start climbing.
The first rock encountered is a small square block with a green corner on its left. The main crag is next, a vaguely wave-like formation with a wee overhang low on the right and a bulging rounded arete on the left. Round the corner from the left end of The Wave is a steep orange slab and 10m to the north is another small wall with a corner groove in the centre.
The crag is in the middle of working farmland so please treat it with respect and donít bring dogs. As a dog lover with a well-behaved mutt I usually take mine everywhere, but not here. A herd of mules roam here and they don't like dogs.
There have also been problems climbed on even smaller buttresses about 100m to the west, close to the ruins of Bruce's castle.
From Stirling, travel along the A905 towards Airth and the turning onto the B9124. Carry on along this road for two miles then park at the entrance to a gatehouse, making sure not to block the access (the guy who lives in the gatehouse sometimes has to park a small lorry here). Walk north along the farm track for 1.2km to a gate on the left, go through this then skirt the south end of the pine trees. Directly ahead is another stand of trees, the crag is hidden in the south of these.
|2||Trunk Line||VB 4a||4|
|3||Branch Line||VB 4b||5|
|4||Leaves on the Track||VB 5a||1|
|5||Green Day||f3 5a||7|
|6||Scottish Idiot||VB 5b||2|
|8||Donkey Kong||f4 *||5|
|9||Dunkin' Dobnuts||f4+ 5a||5|
|10||Eeyore||f5 5b *||5|
|11||Kiss My Ass||f4+ 5a||6|
|12||Pin The Tail On The Donkey||f4+ 5a||7|
|13||Girlpower||f5+ 5c *||3|
|14||Girlpower SS||f6A 6a **||4|
|15||Airth To Mars (2-Handed)||f6A **||4|
|16||Airth To Mars||f5+ 5b *||3|
|17||Demolition Dobbin||f6A 5c||7|
|18||Hung Like A Mule||f4+ 5a||5|
|19||A Donkeys Tail||f3 4b||5|
|20||One Trick Pony||f3 4a||7|
|21||Stuck in A Gerard Kelly Loop||f6B 5c **||1|
|22||Mule Train||f6A 5b *||6|
|23||Mother Airth Traverse||f6A+ 6a **||3|
|24||Donkey Ride||f4 5a||6|
|25||Mother Airth||f6A *||5|
|26||Airthenwear||f6A 5c *||2|
|28||Sunset Boulevard||VB 5c||3|
|29||Sunset Strip||VB 4c||4|
|30||Hello Sunshine||VB 6a *||2|
|31||Sunset Slab||VB 5a *||7|
|32||Sun's Up||f6A+ 6a/b *||3|
|33||Sunday Sundae||VB 5b||2|
|THE NORTH FACE|
|37||Crumb By Crumb||VB 5a||2|
|38||TTF||VB 5b *||3|
|39||Wayne's Wold||VB 4b *||6|
|40||Bug Day||VB 5b *||3|
|44||Fingerfocks ss||VB 5c||2|
|45||10-bob Swally||VB 5a||1|
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