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Climbs 39 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 30m a.s.l – Faces S
Unless stated otherwise all the problems described are climbed from a sit start to make the most of the wee buttresses. The top of the crag and the bigger holds can gather a lot of debris from the trees so it's a good idea to take a soft brush to clear this before you start climbing.
The first rock encountered is a small square block with a green corner on its left. The main crag is next, a vaguely wave-like formation with a wee overhang low on the right and a bulging rounded arete on the left. Round the corner from the left end of The Wave is a steep orange slab and 10m to the north is another small wall with a corner groove in the centre.
The crag is in the middle of working farmland so please treat it with respect and donít bring dogs. As a dog lover with a well-behaved mutt I usually take mine everywhere, but not here. The mules in particular do not like dogs.
There have also been problems climbed on even smaller buttresses about 100m to the west, close to the ruins of Bruce's castle.
Climbs at this crag
From Stirling, travel along the A905 towards Airth and the turning onto the B9124. Carry on along this road for two miles then park at the entrance to a gatehouse, making sure not to block the access (the guy who lives in the gatehouse sometimes has to park a small lorry here). Walk north along the farm track for 1.2km to a gate on the left, go through this then skirt the south end of the pine trees. Directly ahead is another stand of trees, the crag is hidden in the south of these.
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