Climbs 41 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 30m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The Forth Valley's microscopic version of Fontainbleau! Three small buttresses of hard, clean and sound sandstone, with an unlikely setting on the edge of the flat sedimentary plains of the Carse. Flat grassy landings and a pleasant outlook make this a great place to spend a couple of hours, particularly on a sunny winters day.

Unless stated otherwise all the problems described are climbed from a sit start to make the most of the wee buttresses. The top of the crag and the bigger holds can gather a lot of debris from the trees so it's a good idea to take a soft brush to clear this before you start climbing.

The first rock encountered is a small square block with a green corner on its left. The main crag is next, a vaguely wave-like formation with a wee overhang low on the right and a bulging rounded arete on the left. Round the corner from the left end of The Wave is a steep orange slab and 10m to the north is another small wall with a corner groove in the centre.

The crag is in the middle of working farmland so please treat it with respect and donít bring dogs. As a dog lover with a well-behaved mutt I usually take mine everywhere, but not here. A herd of mules roam here and they don't like dogs.

There have also been problems climbed on even smaller buttresses about 100m to the west, close to the ruins of Bruce's castle.

Approach notes
From Stirling, travel along the A905 towards Airth and the turning onto the B9124. Carry on along this road for two miles then park at the entrance to a gatehouse, making sure not to block the access (the guy who lives in the gatehouse sometimes has to park a small lorry here). Walk north along the farm track for 1.2km to a gate on the left, go through this then skirt the south end of the pine trees. Directly ahead is another stand of trees, the crag is hidden in the south of these.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Trunk LineVB 4a 5
3Branch LineVB 4b 6
4Leaves on the TrackVB 5a 2
5Green Dayf3 5a 8
6Scottish IdiotVB 5b 3
8Donkey Kongf4 *6
9Dunkin' Dobnutsf4+ 5a 6
10Eeyoref5 5b *6
11Kiss My Assf4+ 5a 7
12Pin The Tail On The Donkeyf4+ 5a 9
13Girlpowerf5+ 5c *4
14Girlpower SSf6A 6a **4
15Airth To Mars (2-Handed)f6A **4
16Airth To Marsf5+ 5b *4
17Demolition Dobbinf6A 5c 7
18Hung Like A Mulef4+ 5a 6
19A Donkeys Tailf3 4b 6
20One Trick Ponyf3 4a 8
21Stuck in A Gerard Kelly Loopf6B 5c **1
22Mule Trainf6A 5b *6
23Mother Airth Traversef6A+ 6a **3
24Donkey Ridef4 5a 7
25Mother Airthf6A *5
26Airthenwearf6A 5c *2
28Sunset BoulevardVB 5c 3
29Sunset StripVB 4c 4
30Hello SunshineVB 6a *3
31Sunset SlabVB 5a *9
32Sun's Upf6A+ 6a/b *3
33Sunday SundaeVB 5b 3
34SundownerVB 5
36ERVB 3a 7
37Crumb By CrumbVB 5a 3
38TTFVB 5b *4
39Wayne's WoldVB 4b *8
40Bug DayVB 5b *4
41WynoVB 5b 3
42CG1VB 4b 6
43FingerfocksVB 5a 8
44Fingerfocks ssVB 5c 3
4510-bob SwallyVB 5a 1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer aln

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Wandered up for a quick look. Rock was a little green but surprisingly good quality. style of climbing and roc ktype reminded me of northumberland crags like kyloe. will definitely be visiting again some time
James90 - 05/May/14
Visited today, very green and licheny and damp in places, but good rock, flat landings and some nice problems. Take a brush for the rock and a rag for your shoes. On many problems the main difficulty is in getting off the ground so using a bouldering pad may well make things easier!
DWilliamson - 22/Mar/14
Tiny, tiny venue but good rock. Wave by far the best boulder but beware its tree shaded in summer and could stay a little greasy after rain. Topo mentioned below only shows the wave boulder. Sunset slab was in need of a bit of a clean. Combine with a Wolfcrag session as not enough for a day. Lovely location when the bluebells are out, shame its not 5-6ft higher
pebblespanker - 28/May/12
mhowie - 02/Apr/12
With a bit of cleaning there are some fun problems here. Nothing too big but there's still a good variation in styles - slab, overhangs, traverses, mantelshelfs, slopers and powerful crimps. Can someone add a topo?? If I took the pictures maybe the crag admin and first ascentionist would be able to mark the routes. Took forever to work them out from the descriptions....
mhowie - 01/Apr/12
Now rectified Phatman.
aln - 27/Jul/10
PP, some of them are...
aln - 05/Jul/10
All sit down starts. Looks like they need to be lying doon starts.....
Ian Jones - 05/Jul/10
This looks like a great spot for beginners but with no route descriptions added yet, confusing is an understatement.
Phatman - 13/Sep/09
Very, very small but good quality rock with good problems. Best to take a brush.
Eric9Points - 19/Aug/08