Climbs 18
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 334m a.s.l
Faces W

Firstascent Woodbine © Rog Wilko

Crag features

Kettle Crag as it is shown on the OS map is a dirty and vegetated crag facing north. The climbing, however, is found on the west-facing side of the dry gill which runs down the west side of the crag, and can be viewed from a distance only from mid-way up The Band.
This is a delightful little crag, unjustly neglected. As it now has about 18 routes, many of good quality, it is definitely worth a visit by those climbing below the E grades. The rock is superb rhyolite of Gimmer quality, most of the routes are clean and well-protected, and the position, with views across to Gimmer and the Langdale Pikes is a delight. The crag may have a somewhat vegetated and occasionally mossy appearance in parts, but this doesn’t interfere with the climbing, and the rock quality is as good as any in the Lakes. It gets any sun going in the summer after midday and retains the sun till it sets behind Bow Fell, making it one of the best Langdale crags for an evening venue. 

The gill containing the crag is steep and grassy. Please try to reduce erosion when descending by taking a zig-zag line down the grass.

The best approach to the crag is from half-way up the Blea Tarn road from the road-head at Old Dungeon Gill. Please note that, because people will almost certainly approach from above the climbs are listed from right to left, with the first route being near the top of the gill.

Approach notes

When I first went to this crag it took some finding, so here is a better (I hope) description of the approach: The crag lies at 278049 on the east side of a dry gill, un-named on the OS map (n.b. not the more prominent and wet Skull Gill) which cleaves the western part of Kettle Crag. It can be approached by following the intake wall up from the small reservoir 250m south of Stool End, but is more pleasantly reached from half way up the north side of the Blea Tarn hause (room to park one car just below the sharp bend and perhaps another car or two slightly higher). From here follow the main Pike o’ Blisco path. After the path crosses Redacre Gill continue till in line with a small rocky gill joining from the left. There is a prominent (though small) boulder on the right of the path. From a point 25 metres beyond this, (possibly tiny cairn) make an intermittently-rising traverse (occasional tiny cairn?) across the slope, crossing a small beck and then another at the top of a steep gill. Head N towards the Pikes until you reach the top of the gill (fence) containing the crag. 30 - 40 min .

Guidebooks

Lakes Bouldering

The first dedicated bouldering guidebook to the Lake District, spanning a range of areas largely in the National Park and all north and west of the M6 junction 36. The guide is intended to be useful to the visiting climber looking for a day or evening's light bouldering just as much as the hard-core local with decent coverage for the V1 and V9 boulderer alike.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Langdale (2013)

Out of print:
Langdale (1999)
Langdale (1989)
http://www.frcc.co.uk/crags.asp?guide_id=7&crag_id=206 Better copy of photo topo, with the numbers more readable
Ian Hinkins - 06/Sep/12
Excellent crag, the routes we climbed (Serendipity, Minor slab, and Red slab) were all well protected, clean, and on immaculate rock. Would recommend it to anyone operating below the 'e' grades. Can feel a little intimidating at first due to the steepness of the gully and the apparent steepness of the routes. The climbing is wonderful!
A Mountain Journey - 13/Mar/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1StonechatVD *36
2A Sheep in Wolf's ClothingMVS 4b 18
3Earl GreyVS 4c **21
4Rose PuchongMVS 4c *21
5Singing KettleVS 4b **27
6Tiny but DeadlyVS *1
7Minor SlabVS 4b **37
8Minor MelodicVS 4b 4a **25
9Crowd ControlMS *1
10Red SlabS 4a **47
11SerendipityS ***65
12Major SlabVD *25
13Heather the WeatherS *3
14Orange PekoeVS 4c *6
15SemerikodVS 4c * 
16Tea Time AreteMVS 4a **6
17Woodbine DirectHVS 4c *4
18WoodbineHVS 4c *4

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