Climbs 50
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 393m a.s.l
Faces SE

Donegal Granite at its best © georgec

Crag features

The crags surrounding Lough Belshade in the centre of the Blue Stack Mts provide excellent climbing in beautiful surroundings. The routes are, almost without exception, on sound granite and well spread across the grades although the long routes on the main face of Belshade Buttress are all HVS and above. There is still plenty of scope for development. Friends are almost essential for protection on most routes.

From left to right: Belshade Buttress - by far the largest and containing very fine routes up to 90m in length. Two Tier Buttress on the right flank, consists of two short walls each characterised by a diagonal crack line running up its centre from left to right. Red Wall - below and slightly left of Two- Tier Buttress. This crag is a smooth rightwards facing slab giving fine climbing with no protection. Beyond this is a steep grass and rock outcrops through which descent can be made from the top of the main crag. To the right again is a stream and then a group of three crags one above the other. These are, from the bottom to the top, Blaeberry Crag, The High Crag and last of all The Very High Crag. All provide good one pitch routes on clean rock.

Map ref: G975901

Approach notes

After passing through Barnesmore Gap on the Ballybofey/Donegal Town Road, look for signs on the right for Lough Eske. Drive around the lake in an anti-clockwise direction until, at the top of a steep hill, a wooden walker points the way down a narrow road to the right (Edergole) The narrow road leads to a small farmyard where cars can be parked. From here a way marked path leads up the valley passing (out of sight) the Doonan Waterfall which is well worth the short detour (50m) to the right to see. The river, and the marker posts are followed until the first major river junction, when a stream descends from Lough Belshade to the left. Follow this stream to arrive at the lake shore. Follow the lake shore to the right to arrive at a small beach at the northern end of the lake, directly below the crags.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Belshade Buttress 
2More Snakes Than Ladders
VS 4c *1
VS 4c **2
4Classical RevivalHVS 5a ***8
5Mystery TourE1 5b ** 
6Act of DestructionE3 6a *** 
7Taken at the FloodE1 5b **1
8Lest we ForgetHVS 5a ** 
9Midgesummer NightmareE1 5b *** 
10Land of Heart's Desire
HVS 5a ***1
 Two Tier Buttress 
12Sweet BirdVS 4b  
13Quality StreetVS 4c  
14SidelinesHS 4b  
15Tennessee StudVS 4c  
 Red Wall 
17Fitt for a LordVS 4b  
18The Red WallVS 4c  
19Wassock CornerHS 4b  
 Blaeberry Buttress 
21Punkah WallahS 3c  
22Tuning-fork flake
HS 4a 1
S 3c **1
24Fear GortaVS 4c  
25Corner BoyHVS 5a  
26FlyoverHVS 5a ** 
27JibberHVS 5a  
28Gas GuzzlerHVS 5b ***1
29Folly Wolly DoodleS 4a  
30Folly Wolly Doodle DirectVS 5a  
VS 4c 1
32ConclusionE1 5c * 
33RuairiE1 5b  
 High Crags 
35Dead Man's LadderVD * 
36HombreHS 4a * 
37TobleroneS 4a  
38A Midge Too FarVS 5a * 
39DambustersE2 5c * 
40Fudge FingersVS 4c  
 Very High Crag 
42Northwest PassageHS 4b  
43RejuvenationS 3c  
44Joint EffortVD  
 Red Gully 
46Double Whymper (& Chips)S 4a  
47From a Whymper to a ScreamHVS 5b  
48Kieran's PainHS 4b  
49P.J's PleasureHVS 5a  
50TosserS 4a  

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