Climbs 16
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal
Faces N

Tales of Don Juan - superb E1 on rarely visited Crag © Kafoozalem

Crag features

A fairly accessible crag with some good slab climbing. Some very well protected routes and some protected by very worn out pegs that look pretty useless (April 07)

[missing gridref]

Approach notes

About a mile north of Sharpnose is a north facing crag. Scramble and slither down the ridge to get to it. Alternatively follow the footpath to the beach a few hundred metres to the south and boulder hop round. April 2014 - The landward slab has two decent metal belay stakes in place that are set well back. The seaward face has three very old looking bits of tat around a couple of boulders. The slither down the scree is fine.

A really underrated crag and can be climbed at high tide what more do you want! Brilliant rock with some lovely subtle features. The pegs are going but don't really detract from the E1's and below however the new one on Volupte is much appreciated on that and Sensual Seas. Approach is not too bad and big thank you to the stake placers. What are people's thoughts on replacing volupte's top peg?
Macca_7 - 05/Oct/14
The top outs are seriously scary, makes climbs XS
Steve Woollard - 08/Sep/14
Excellent high tide venue. Two stakes and some tat joining them with a maillon to ab off. Great rock. The approach is a tad spicy. Could do with a hand rope by the top.
alexjz - 06/Aug/14
I agree with Kafoozalem. The initial scramble/slither is harrowing. Lots of loose rocks and some intimidating gaps opening up. Not sure if there hasn't been a large landslide. Needs a stake.
Dilwat - 11/Jul/14
An underrated crag. Coitionary Tales, Tales of Don Juan and Volupte are all worth two or more stars. The "slither" down the ridge is fairly serious and really needs a stake and grab rope.
Kafoozalem - 27/May/14
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Coitionary TalesHVS 5a *34
2Tales of Don JuanE1 5b *23
3VirgoVS 4c 7
4Blackwater DownE1 5b 4
5Sensual SeasE1 5b *9
6VolupteE3 5c *5
7Psycho-somaE1 5b  
8Consenting Adults
E4 5c * 
E2 5c 1
10HoppodromeE1 5b 5
11Polar Airstream
S 2
12Cough Width SlabMVS 4b 6
13SackVD 2
14CrackS 4b 2
15BackD 2
16The great toe murder mysteryS *1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer fly or die