High Crag

Climbs 35 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features

Superb selection of medium(HVS-E1) grade routes on superb rock. Indecent Obsession(E2), Foul Play(HVS), Executioners Song(E3), Samson(HVS), Philistine(E1), Lost Colonies(E3), Psycho(E1), High Crag Buttress(HVS), Nebs.. Dream(E1), Gethsemane(E1), Delilah(VS).

Approach notes

45 minute uphill walk from Gatesgarth Farm. Farmer charges £3 to park off road but there is other space nearby.

Access notes

There have been complaints about climbers approaching over private land near Hagg House. Therefore approach on the public footpath that goes towards Kay Nest but before you get there turn South East & walk above the wall.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Buttermere and St Bees (2008),
Out of print: Buttermere & Eastern Crags (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Wishful ThinkingVS 5a *4
3FelonyHVS 5a 5
4Indecent ObsessionE2 6a **14
5Foul PlayHVS 5b **48
6Red, Raw and ItchyE3 6a **1
7The Executioner's SongE3 6a ***10
8Short CircuitE1 5c *3
9The NavigatorHVS 5a 1
10BrushlessHVS 5b 1
11SweeperE1 5c  
13The Three KingsVS 4c *7
14LudoHS 4a 25
15Nameless RouteS 3c 11
16Bunyip ButtressVS 4b *2
17ArtefactMVS 4b **22
18Resurrection RouteVS 4b *36
19Dry TrimE1 5b **40
20SamsonHVS 5a **85
21Close ShaveE1 5b **3
22The PhilistineE1 5b ***98
23The Sun Never SetsE3 6a *2
24PsychoE1 5b **14
25The IsraeliteE3 5c * 
26The Lost AegeanE2 5c **3
27Lost ColoniesE3 6a **16
28Lost Colonies (Original Start)E2 5b **6
29High Crag ButtressHVS 5a ***91
30FellwandererHVS 5a *1
31Nebuchanezzar's DreamE1 5b **11
32Quest for WisdomE2 5c *2
33GethsemaneE1 5b **54
34DelilahVS 4c ***133
35Gatesgarth ChimneyVD *2
36The Girde TraverseHVS 5a * 
38Gatesgarth ChimneyIV 5 *1
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Recommend taking two ropes for an abseil. The descent otherwise = follow obvious worn heather path to the left edge of the crag (bit exposed, but okay in climbing shoes) until a square trough corner appears in the heather at your feet for you to scramble down ( this looks easy and is at first until it ends up on a square grass platform near the bottom). Three options from grass platform: 1, recommmended, downclimb the shortest chimney on your right (good holds do appear) 2, scramble down the continuation rocks (bit awkward and precarious). 3, if wearing tweeds throw yourself into the holdless chimney and slide down! Lovely crag, sensational views of Buttermere and Crummock Water.
jimorothy - 24/May/10
The best crag in the Lake district. Lovely rock a texture and situation. I might have been a bit windy on the day but still feel that Philistine is a bit run-out for E1.
tom valentine - 27/Jul/08