An excellent sandstone/conglomerate crag in a sunny south facing position. The majority of the routes are quick to dry. Up to 15m high. Vertical face climbing at the right end and roofs at the left culminating in the spectacular Dirty Harrys Cave.
The crag is off limits from September 1st to end of October each year as the farmer keeps deer there and they are very aggresive during the rutting season. PLEASE do not break this ban as access is delicate, go somewhere else instead.
Dirty Harry's cave can provide a number of complex link ups.
Golden Fleece has been recorded as a good example of what can be done here.
Some have been climbed before others are possible which likely have not.
Please do not send in further details for "new routes" on the crag which merely link existing bolts as they won't be put in the database.
IMPORTANT: Parking is limited and cars must not be parked in the "turning circle"
This is needed for long farm vehicles to negotiate the hairpin and is not a car park.
Anyone ignoring this please don't be surprised if you return to your car and find either damage to your vehicle or a very irate farmer waiting on you.
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ (2015), Scottish Sport Climbs (2013),
Out of print: 7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012)
|DIRTY HARRYS CAVE|
|2||Little Po Beep||6b||49|
|3||The Sheep of Things to come...||6b+||32|
|5||Car Pit Baggers||7a+ **||101|
|6||Climb and Punishment||7b ***||52|
|7||The Golden Fleece||7a+ **||5|
|8||Dead Pull||7b+ **||15|
|9||The Reinforcer||7c **||12|
|10||The Enforcer||7b **||50|
|11||Dirty Harry||6b **||61|
|12||Make my Day||6a *||66|
|14||Good Boy Jo Jo||6b+ *||39|
|15||Towed in the Hole||7a||33|
|16||Head of the Queue||6c *||35|
|17||Snails Pace||7a *||28|
|18||End of the Road||7a+ *||13|
|19||Dennis Caravan||7b *||17|
|20||Trailer Trash||7b *||12|
|SECTOR "SIZE ISNT EVERYTHING"|
|23||Grasping the Nettle||6c *||32|
|24||Welcome To The Big Pocket||6b+ **||46|
|25||Get Shorty!||6c+ *||14|
|26||Short Haul||7a+ *||8|
|29||Sold short||6c *||12|
|MAIN WALL LEFT- ELDERS WALL|
|31||The Uninvited||7a+ *||17|
|32||One Foot In The Door||7a *||32|
|34||Grand Theft Auto||7a+ **||39|
|36||Pitscandalous (joy ride)||7c *||10|
|37||Need For Speed||6c+ *||22|
|38||Fretting over nothing||7a+ **||33|
|39||No respect for your elders||6c+ ***||38|
|40||Pitscandly Chainsaw Massacre||7a *||49|
|MAIN WALL RIGHT|
|42||Deer Hunter||6c+ *||25|
|43||Leonardo Da Pinchy||7a *||35|
|46||Italian Stallion||6a *||165|
|49||Squeal Like a Piggy||6b||77|
|50||Fire in the Hold||6a+||103|
|51||Burning Desire||6c+ *||34|
|53||Power Flower||6c *||64|
|54||Going Through on Aggregate||7a ***||65|
|55||Beyond the call of Nature||7a *||29|
|56||Loose Cannons||6c *||29|
|57||R n D Dubz||6a *||61|
|59||Spider Pig||7a+ *||6|
|61||Harry Trotter||6c *||6|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|A great crag and well bolted, The sandstone is solid but the conglomerate needs careful handling on some of the routes quite hollow in places.
A great workout can be had I am throughly satisfied after my first visit. Cheers to Ken and Neil and anyone else invloved in the development of the place.|
Sandy Simpson - 22/Aug/09