Le Bigard Area (Sunset Bay to Sea Wall)

Climbs 69 – Rocktype Gneiss – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
The biggest crag in the island. Rock is a pink/orange gneiss which tends to form slabs and overlaps (Think of Ochre slab at Bosigran). Some superb lines are here including the classic VS of 'Floating Rib', many are non-tidal.

Some routes are protected by the odd Piton from before 1996, these are deemed untrustworthy.

Rock quality ranges from good to loose, some lines are quite dirty & grassy due to a lack of traffic. Not every route is listed here.

Approach notes
No bird restrictions, although seagulls & Cormorants nest on the crags. Abseil in recommended, as is getting someone from the GMC to show you the quickest ways down (see www.gmc.org.gg). 'Cato' > 'Mortally Wounded' are non-tidal (if the sea's not rough) and easily accessible by abseiling from a good boulder at the top of 'Floating Rib'. 'Original Route'>'Grass Trip Direct' are also non-tidal and best accessed using the scramble down to Sea wall. As Le Bigard stack is climbable on neaps it's an option to setup a tyrolean traverse to get back to dry land - there may be a big sling in place on the stack halfway down to tie onto.

Guidebooks
Jersey and Guernsey (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SUNSET BAY  
2Drainpipe CrackVS 4c  
3Rat out of HellE4 6b  
 CORBIERE SLAB  
5Retire to GuernseyE1 5b *1
6AstroglideS 1
 CORBIERE STACK  
8Bean and GoneVS 5a  
9EdgehogS  
10Gelert's GrooveHVS 5a *1
11CorbomightE6 6b  
12The JamHS 4b  
 MAIN CLIFF  
14Brief EncounterHVS 4c  
15Virgo *S  
16Easy Groove *D  
17Off-shore TradesVS 4b  
18Blitz *HVS 4c  
19Jericho Jazz *VS 4b 1
20Le Chien BoduE2 5b * 
21Crown of ThornsE1 5b ***4
22Boogie to BethlehemHVS 5a *1
23Autumn MadnessE1 5b * 
24Indian SummerE1 5b ***1
25Botany Bay *S  
26Wolf In Sheep's ClothingE3 6a  
27Lefthand crackM 2
28Centre CrackHS 4b 1
29Righthand crackM 1
30CatoHVS 5a * 
31Chicken RunE3 5c * 
32FractureVS 5a 2
33Spare RibVS 4c 1
34Straw DogsE3 6a *1
35The LynxHVS 5a ***3
36Floating Rib a.k.a. Pink PantherVS 4c **6
37ClouseauHVS 5a * 
38IncisionE1 5b  
39Partners in CrimeE2 6a 1
40999HS 4b 6
41Harelip *VS 4c  
42666 *HVS 5a  
43Pink Pussy *VD  
44Morendo WallE1 5b * 
45Mortally woundedE3 5b * 
46The BlowholeS * 
 CENTRAL SLAB  
48Original RouteVD 2
49Climb with no nameHVS 5a  
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS  
51Central Buttress Access / Rockfall infosummit  
52Pitch BlackVS 5a  
53A Fistfull of DollarsHVS 4c  
 LE BIGARD STACK  
55Animal MagicHVS 5a **1
56Sarcophagus *HVS 5a *1
57Dark SecretS 7
58The Roaring SilenceVS 5a **3
59Swing'in in the RainVS 4c 2
 GRASS TRIP AREA  
61Grass TripHS 4b *2
62Grass Trip DirectVS 4c 2
63Project - above grass tripnone  
 SEA WALL  
65The Undercover ManHVS 4c  
66Lazy SundayS 5
67Electric HorsemanHVS 5a  
68Speed FreakHVS 5a 7
69Topectomy CrackHVS 5a 4
70ThunderS 5
71LightningS 4a ***8
72The FlasherHVS 5a  
73No Rest for the WickedHVS 5a *2
74BackbenderS 4a  
 UNSORTED  
76Emma *S  
77Pink Haze *D 1
78Quick Retreat *S 1
79Blinded by the LightD 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Toerag

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