Le Bigard Area (Sunset Bay to Sea Wall)

Climbs 67 – Rocktype Gneiss – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
The biggest crag in the island. Rock is a pink/orange gneiss which tends to form slabs and overlaps (Think of Ochre slab at Bosigran). Some superb lines are here including the classic VS of 'Floating Rib', many are non-tidal.

Some routes are protected by the odd Piton from before 1996, these are deemed untrustworthy.

Rock quality ranges from good to loose, some lines are quite dirty & grassy due to a lack of traffic. Not every route is listed here.

Access notes
No bird restrictions, although seagulls & Cormorants nest on the crags. Abseil in recommended, as is getting someone from the GMC to show you the quickest ways down (see www.gmc.org.gg). 'Cato' > 'Mortally Wounded' are non-tidal (if the sea's not rough) and easily accessible by abseiling from a good boulder at the top of 'Floating Rib'. 'Original Route'>'Grass Trip Direct' are also non-tidal and best accessed using the scramble down to Sea wall. As Le Bigard stack is climbable on neaps it's an option to setup a tyrolean traverse to get back to dry land - there may be a big sling in place on the stack halfway down to tie onto.

Jersey and Guernsey (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2Drainpipe CrackVS 4c
3Rat out of HellE4 6b
5Retire to GuernseyE1 5b *
8Bean and GoneVS 5a
10CorbomightE6 6b
11The JamHS 4b
13Brief EncounterHVS 4c
14Virgo *S
15Easy Groove *D
16Off-shore TradesVS 4b
17Blitz *HVS 4c
18Jericho Jazz *VS 4b
19Le Chien BoduE2 5b *
20Crown of ThornsE1 5b ***
21Boogie to BethlehemHVS 5a *
22Autumn MadnessE1 5b *
23Indian SummerE1 5b ***
24Botany Bay *S
25Wolf In Sheep's ClothingE3 6a
26Lefthand crackM
27Centre CrackHS 4b
28Righthand crackM
29CatoHVS 5a *
30Chicken RunE3 5c *
31FractureVS 5a
32Spare RibVS 4c
33Straw DogsE3 6a *
34The LynxHVS 5a ***
35Floating Rib a.k.a. Pink PantherVS 4c **
36ClouseauHVS 5a *
37IncisionE1 5b
38Partners in CrimeE2 6a
39999HS 4b
40Harelip *VS 4c
41666 *HVS 5a
42Pink Pussy *VD
43Morendo WallE1 5b *
44Mortally woundedE3 5b *
45The BlowholeS *
47Original RouteVD
48Climb with no nameHVS 5a
50Central Buttress Access / Rockfall infosummit
51Pitch BlackVS 5a
52A Fistfull of DollarsHVS 4c
54Dark SecretS
55The Roaring SilenceVS 5a **
56Swing'in in the RainVS 4c
58Grass TripHS 4b *
59Grass Trip DirectVS 4c
60Project - above grass tripnone
62The Undercover ManHVS 4c
63Lazy SundayS
64Electric HorsemanHVS 5a
65Speed FreakHVS 5a
66Topectomy CrackHVS 5a
68LightningS 4a ***
69The FlasherHVS 5a
70No Rest for the WickedHVS 5a *
71BackbenderS 4a
73Emma *S
74Pink Haze *D
75Quick Retreat *S
76Blinded by the LightD
77Sarcophagus *HVS 5a *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Toerag

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