Climbs 68
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces SW

First ascent of the E7 variation © Toerag

Crag features

A superb atmospheric venue of fine-textured solid blue Perelle Gneiss with some excellent climbs. Highly recommended.
Most routes are partially or fully non-tidal.
Many routes have the odd Piton for protection which have been in place since before 1996 and are deemed untrustworthy. If you wish to do a route with piton protection the crag moderator has some pegs and a hammer.
Topos on www.gmc.org.gg
If you submit routes for inclusion please ensure you have the first ascentionist details.

Approach notes

Care needed on approach while traversing above the back of the zawn, the easiest way down to sea level is via the western side and Zawn entrance. Fishermen sometimes leave a rope on the descent scramble. Park in the gravel carpark by the large German tower on the side of the cliff above the Zawn. The turn-off to this carpark is not marked on many maps, but there are some flat concrete slabs occasionally covered by piles of hardcore next to the turnoff. 10 minute walk and scramble in. No bird restrictions, but seagulls nest above the climbs and on the scramble down. The big storms of 2013/14 have moved the boulders round in the bottom of the zawn, but most climbs do not appear to have been affected. Helmets strongly recommended in case a member of the public throws a stone down into the zawn!

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Outside the Zawn 
2Pearly gates
-
HVS 4c 2
3Rub Some Dirt On ItE5 6b 1
4Climax
-
E1 5c 3
5Cream Teaze
-
E1 5a 7
6Auk Chasm
-
VS 15
7Chunder
-
E1 5b 3
8Mad Dog Rides Again
-
E2 5c 5
9Vermicious KnidVS 4b 2
10Dodo
-
D 16
11Smurf
-
HS 4b 21
12The TetradE1 5a 2
13Shot in the Dark
-
S 26
14Riders on the Storm
-
E1 5b 12
15StormbringerVS 4c 8
 Western wall of the Zawn 
17Medium RareE2 5b  
18Sunburnt Finish
-
VS 5a 6
19BorderlineE2 5b 1
20Styx TripE3 6a 1
21HadesE3 5c ***12
22Hades Left-hand finishE3 5c?  
23Fallen Angel DirectE3 5b **2
24Fallen AngelE2 5b 2
25Titanium StripperE3 6a *1
26After the Gold-rushE1 5b ***22
27Corridors of Power direct finish
-
E4 6a **1
28Corridors of PowerE3 6a *2
29Corridors of Power directE4 5c/6a  
30ProcrastinationE3 5c * 
31Chockstone Chimney
-
HS 4b 16
32TaoE3 5c ** 
33Rat TrapVS 4c 19
34Sledge Hammer
-
E3 5c ** 
35Trail of Deception : Sledgehammer start
-
E2 5b  
36Valediction
-
E3 5c ** 
37Trail of Deception
-
E2 5b 2
38Path of RighteousnessE5 6a 1
39A Guernsey DoubleE6 6b ** 
40Project - out of the depths of the zawnXS 6?  
 Eastern wall of the Zawn 
42Soleil Du MidiE4 6a  
43NightshiftE5 6a ** 
44Nemesis
-
E4 6b *2
45Space Invader
-
E1 5b *4
46Interstellar Overdrive
-
E1 5b *6
47The Black HoleHVS 5a *10
48Outer SpaceE4 6a **1
49The Gneiss GirlsE6 6b ** 
50Gneis Gorilla Direct startE4 5c 1
51Gneiss Gorilla
-
E2 5b *3
52ChimpVS 4b **16
53Crossing the Rubicon
-
E2 5b  
54Crossing the Rubicon : Breathless start
-
E1 5b **1
55Asthmatic ChimpHVS 5b **1
56Breathless
-
HVS 5b ***14
57Witless
-
E2 5b  
58Rock of AgesHVS 5a ***27
59The Mirken
-
E1 5b 2
60Slimy Squeeze
-
S 1
61Vapour trailHVS 5a 1
62Orca
-
VS 4c 1
63The SextonE2 5b  
 Opposite Gull Stack 
65Liquidity Preference
-
VD  
66Wall Street
-
HVS 5a  
67Traded option
-
VD  
68Small Fry
-
D  
69Insider Deal
-
HS 4b  
70Footsie
-
HS 4a  
71Middle Age spread
-
D  
72You're Like This
-
S 4c  
 Unsorted 

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