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These details were last updated on 13/Nov/2013

Buachaille Etive Mor

Highland, SCOTLAND

Climbs 287 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 685m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Rannoch Wall offers middle grade climbs of huge exposure and verticality in an impressive situation with a huge outlook over the Rannoch Moor. Great rock and quick drying with good early morning sunshine. Agags Groove is a classic V Diff route which traverses the face graded VII in winter. January Jigsaw(S), Whortleberry Wall(HVS), Line Up(HVS), and Direct Route (S) are all three star classics worthy of anyone's attention.

Access notes
From the waterslide slabs a path zig-zags to the foot of D-Gully buttress and then curves right past Curved Ridge to the Wall.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

7.0mm rain
Sunny periods
13 °C
27 kph

0.6mm rain
Sun
12 °C
40 kph

24.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
45 kph

18.0mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
32 kph

11.5mm rain
Cloudy
12 °C
39 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Northwest HighlandsMet Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Scottish Rock - South (2008), Glen Coe (2001), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Scottish Winter Climbs (1996), Glen Coe (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 SOUTH-EAST FACE:  
 THE CHASM  
3South GullyM 1
4Starting BrightS  
5Hailstone WallS  
6The ChasmVS ***105
7The Chasm - The South ChimneyVS 4c 5
8The Chasm - The Direct RouteVS 4c 1
9The ChasmIV 4 *** 
10The Chasm North WallII  
11The Chasm to Crowberry TraverseM 6
12The Chasm To Crowberry TraverseII *1
 SOUTH BLACKMOUNT BUTTRESS  
14LimboVS 4c *1
15FlamingoVS 4c **4
16Whispering GroovesVS 4c ***7
17The MutchkinVS 4c *2
18LittlekinHS 4a  
 CENTRAL BLACKMOUNT BUTTRESS  
20PaleolithVS *1
21NeolithVS  
 NORTH BLACKMOUNT BUTTRESS  
23Tombstone CrackS 4a **1
24Tombstone WallHS 4b *1
25Saturday RockVS 4c ** 
26The SnakeS **1
27PalefaceVS ** 
28South Tower, Lady's GullyVD  
29Lady's GullyVD  
30Lady's Gully Left ForkVD  
31Lady's Gully Right ForkM  
32Lady's GullyIV 4 ** 
33Collie's ClimbM  
 EAGLE BUTTRESS  
35RaptorHVS 5a ***2
 RED WALL  
37SmirrVS 4b **1
38Forever RedVS 4b 1
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS - NORTH FACE  
40North Face RouteS **210
41North-East CrackHS *1
42North Face RouteV 6 **5
43Kinloss CornerHS 6
44Kinloss CornerV 6 * 
45Rock ClimbVS 4c *6
46Rock Climb - Direct StartS  
47SwansongS  
48AppaulingVS  
49HiccupVS 4c ***57
50Has BeenVS  
51The GangwayHS * 
52Central ChimneyVD 1
53Central ChimneyIV 2
54HangoverVS 4c *3
55Slanting LedgeVD 1
56Spillikin RouteS * 
57Waterslide WallS 1
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS - SOUTH FACE  
59Tickled PinkVS 4c  
60PlumblineVS 4b * 
61Direct RouteVD 3
62Direct RouteIV * 
63Waterslide GullyS * 
64Waterslide GullyIV 5 ** 
65Waterslide CornerE1 5b **5
66The VeilV 5 ** 
67PeglegHVS 5a **17
68PilliwinksE1 5a *2
69Pilliwinks VariationE1 5a  
70PontoonE1 5b ***14
71Pontoon - Original Pitch 1E1 5a * 
72Pontoon VariationE1 5a  
73Gravity And GraceE2 5c  
 NORTH-EAST FACE:  
 D GULLY BUTTRESS  
76AlpenIV 4 **2
77Special KIV 4 * 
78ToastVD 1
79MarmaladeS  
80CornflakeS  
81D Gully ButtressD 42
82D Gully ButtressIII 4 *41
83D GullyII *8
 CURVED RIDGE  
85Curved RidgeM ***518
86Curved Ridge3 **237
87Curved RidgeII/III 3 ***647
88Iron CrossVS 4c *1
89Easy GullyII **8
 RANNOCH WALL - RIGHT-HAND SECTION  
91Grooved AreteVS 4b **78
92Agag's GrooveVD ***825
93Agag's GrooveVII 6 ***7
94Curving GrooveVS 5a *10
95Juniper GrooveHS 8
96January JigsawS ***401
97January JigsawIV 1
98Satan's SlitVS 4c **90
 RANNOCH WALL - CENTRAL SECTION  
100Pandava's ProgressVS 4c 2
101A Game of DiceE2 5b *4
102A Bridge Too FarE2 5c  
103Fear Of A Flat PlanetVIII 8 ***1
104Thieves Like UsVS 4c 1
105Red SlabVS 4c **30
106Red SlabVIII 8 1
107Route IVD 3
108Route IV 5 **1
109Overhanging CrackS 1
110Line UpHVS 5a **49
111Whortleberry WallHVS 4c **15
112PlinkHVS 5a *2
113Baptism Of FireE4 5c  
114Peasant's PassageHVS 5a **14
115PlonkVS 4c 2
 RANNOCH WALL - LEFT-HAND SECTION  
117Wappenshaw WallVS 4b *9
118Wappenshaw Wall - Variation Pitch 2E1 5a **3
119Shattered WallS 3
120Chuckle BrothersVI 7 ** 
121Domino ChimneyS  
122Rannoch TraverseVS 2
123High Level GirdleHS  
 NORTH-EAST FACE  
125SymposiumE2 5c 5
126Engineer's CrackE1 5b **76
127Fracture RouteVS 4c **75
128DingleHVS 5a **23
129The OrphanVS 4c *5
130The WidowHVS 5a  
131Direct RouteS ***83
132Direct Route - Pinnacle Ledge VariationM  
133Direct Route - North Chimney VariationM  
134Direct Route - Greig's Ledge VariationD 1
135Direct Route - Speirs' VariationVD 2
136Direct RouteVII 6 ***2
 CROWBERRY TOWER  
138South RidgeM 22
139South RidgeII/III  
140South ChimneyD 4
141South ChimneyIII 1
142Route IIM 2
 NORTH FACE  
144Naismith's RouteIV 5 **10
145Hyphen RibD  
146Shelf RouteIV 6 ***17
147Crowberry GullyIV 4 ***164
148Crowberry Gully Centre RibIV 5  
149Crowberry Gully Left ForkIV 5 **3
150Crowberry GullyVD 3
151Crowberry Gully Centre RibVD  
152Crowberry Gully Left ForkS * 
153East RibsIII  
 NORTH BUTTRESS - LOWER TIER  
155North-East ZigzagD 2
156North-East Zigzag VariationVD  
157North-East ZigzagIV 4 **2
158Slanting GrooveVD 2
159Royal FlushVS 4c **10
160Brevity CrackVS 5a **37
 Climb nameGradex
161ShabityVS 4b 1
162Shackle RouteS ***107
163Shackle RouteVI 6 ***2
164Shattered CrackVS 4c *17
165Shattered Crack - Right CrackVS 4c *2
166Crow's Nest CrackVS 4c ***86
167Mainbrace CrackHVS 5a **27
168Mainbrace Crack Direct FinishE2 5c * 
169BogtrotterE2 5c 1
170White Wall CrackE1 5b ***18
171Bottleneck ChimneyVS 4b **27
172Bottleneck ChimneyVI 7  
173Bluebell GroovesE4 6a 1
174PendulumE2 5c *2
175Gallow's RouteE2 5b **4
176Creag Dhon't WollE5 6b **2
177Girdle Traverse (North Buttress)VS  
 NORTH BUTTRESS - UPPER TIER  
179Hangman's CrackVS 4c **35
180Hangman's CrackVI 7 1
181GarotteVS 5a *4
182GibbetHVS 5a *2
183GibberishE2 5c  
184GuillotineHVS 5b 1
185North Buttress (West Route)M *116
186North Buttress (West Route)IV 4 ***231
187North Buttress (West Route)3S ***26
 NORTH FACE:  
 SLIME WALL  
190PlutocratS  
191PlutoS 1
192BelialVD *1
193Misty HighV 5 1
194Bloody CrackE1 5b ***11
195Doom AreteE1 5b, 4b ***2
196Bludgers RevelationHVS 5a ***137
197Lecher's SuperstitionE2 5c, 5c ***5
198GrogblossomE4 4a, 6a ** 
199ShibbolethE2 5b ***96
200Shibboleth - Original FinishE2 5c ***7
201The New TestamentE4 4a,6a, ***6
202ApocalypseE3 5c,5b, **1
203ApparitionE1 5b **13
204Guerdon GroovesHVS 5b *4
205Guerdon GroovesIX 8 *** 
206Raven's GullyHVS 5a ***27
207Raven's Gully Direct FinishVS ***1
208Raven's GullyV 5 ***19
209Raven's Gully Direct FinishVI 6 ***2
210Nightmare TraverseE2  
211Girdle Traverse (Slime Wall)VS  
 CUNEIFORM BUTTRESS - NORTH FACE  
213Raven's EdgeVS 4c **35
214Raven's Edge - Direct FinishHVS 5a 2
215Raven's EdgeVII 8 ***3
216Ordinary RouteVD  
217Ordinary RouteIV 5 ** 
218The Central ChimneyS  
219Central Chimney DirectVS 5a * 
220The Long ChimneyS  
221The Long ChimneyIV ** 
 CUNEIFORM BUTTRESS - WEST FACE  
223Backing OutHS * 
224Snowba'sVS 4c ** 
225The Mighty AtomE2 5c ** 
226Lift OffHVS 5a,4c ** 
227Cuneiform CornerIV 4 *2
228Cuneiform Corner ContinuationIII * 
229Overhanging GrooveS  
230Great GullyII 40
 GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS - EAST FACE  
232Un-named IcefallIII 1
233Trident Crack DirectHS * 
234August CrackHVS 5a **14
235July CrackHVS 5a ***22
236Playmate Of The MonthE3 6a  
237June CrackVS 4c/5a **48
238June CrackV 2
239Augley CrackHVS 5a *1
240Direct RouteHS 4b **11
241Direct RouteVI 6 ** 
242LedgewayHS 4a *4
243Ledgeway Direct StartVS 4c **4
244Ledgeway Final VariationS * 
245The WhipE1 5b **4
 GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS - NORTH FACE  
247Sundown SlabS **1
248Great Flake RouteVD 2
249Great Flake RouteIV  
250Sunset GrooveVD  
251Sunset RibVD  
252Girdle Traverse (Great Gully Buttress)VS 5a  
253Great Gully Buttress3S 14
254Great Gully ButtressII/III 3
 GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS - UPPER  
256Happy ValleyE1 5b **2
257YamE1 5b **14
258YammayE2 5b **11
259Yammay VariationE2 5c 1
260May CrackVS 5a ***41
261May CrackV 1
262Curried YakHVS 5a 1
263FacadeHS 4a **7
264Bent CrackVD 3
265Bent Crack RibVD 1
 GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS - FLEM WALL  
267SgubVS  
268Seek TochilS  
269ShasmakelmanovVS  
 BROAD BUTTRESS WEST FACE  
271Ephemeron GullyIV 4 1
272Pedlar's GrooveS  
273Hawker's CrackS  
274PaladinVS  
275MesonVS  
276Broad Buttress2 **15
 STAIRCASE BUTTRESS  
278Pedestal AreteS  
279Original RouteVD  
280East Chimney VariationVD  
281East Chimney VariationIII  
282Rehabilitation RouteS 1
283BagVS  
284Blaeberry RibVD  
 LAGANGARBH BUTTRESS  
286Sassenach GrooveHVS 5a  
287East FaceHS  
288Bollard SlabHS  
289Nameless WallHS  
290Nameless GrooveVD  
291Crest Route / Left EdgeS *2
292Lagangarbh ChimneyD **7
293Lagangarbh ChimneyIII 2
294PangVS 5a *1
295InfectedIII 1
296Lagangarbh Buttress3 **18
 COIRE NA TULAICH - EAST FLANK  
298North East Ridge of Creag Coire na Tulaich3 **7
299The DialVD  
300The DialIII 4  
301Pinball WizardHVS 5a  
302The ShieldHVS 5a  
303DodgyE2 5b  
304Crack CocaineE1 5b  
305A Friend In NeedE3 5c * 
306Slack AlanE2 5b  
307The SentinelE1 5b  
308To Kill A Mocking BirdE2 5c  
309SliverIII 1
310Headwall Buttress ClimbM 2
 COIRE NA TULAICH - WEST FLANK  
312NobadVD  
313AwrongVD  
314The SpateIV 6  
315AwriteS  
316SosoVD  
317DinnaekenVS  
318UhuhS  
319Four Feather FallsIII  
320Chimney RouteII/III 1
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Central buttress south face, abseil tat in place at top and midway, August 2014
abbeywall - 02/Sep/14

Abseil sling in place above engineers crack. Seems sound as 18/7/14
David Smith - 19/Jul/14

Brand new black abseil sling added to the big spike on Pegleg 9th Oct. 2010. Please leave. Ian Jones
Ian Jones - 10/Oct/10

Curved Ridge is not on the east face of North Buttress.
Andy Moles - 16/Sep/09

Agags Groove is 'old' IV, now VII, 7 or something. So watch out! MacInnes and Bonnington sandbagging a touch...
I am the God of Stratheyre - 22/May/05

Can't agree with the comment about Ravens Edge being 'poor in summer'. A few rattly holds, yes, but the line is excellent, the climbing really atmospheric and you get a cracking view of the upper part of Shibboleth at close hand across the void of Ravens Gully. Reasonably intimidating but a must for the connoiseur of mountain VS.....
GFoz - 22/Dec/03