Buachaille Etive Mor

Climbs 287 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 685m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Rannoch Wall offers middle grade climbs of huge exposure and verticality in an impressive situation with a huge outlook over the Rannoch Moor. Great rock and quick drying with good early morning sunshine. Agags Groove is a classic V Diff route which traverses the face graded VII in winter. January Jigsaw(S), Whortleberry Wall(HVS), Line Up(HVS), and Direct Route (S) are all three star classics worthy of anyone's attention.

Access notes
From the waterslide slabs a path zig-zags to the foot of D-Gully buttress and then curves right past Curved Ridge to the Wall.

Guidebooks
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Scottish Rock - South (2008), Glen Coe (2001), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Scottish Winter Climbs (1996), Glen Coe (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 SOUTH-EAST FACE: 
 THE CHASM 
3South GullyM
4Starting BrightS
5Hailstone WallS
6The ChasmVS ***
7The Chasm - The South ChimneyVS 4c
8The Chasm - The Direct RouteVS 4c
9The ChasmIV 4 ***
10The Chasm North WallII
11The Chasm to Crowberry TraverseM
12The Chasm To Crowberry TraverseII *
 SOUTH BLACKMOUNT BUTTRESS 
14LimboVS 4c *
15FlamingoVS 4c **
16Whispering GroovesVS 4c ***
17The MutchkinVS 4c *
18LittlekinHS 4a
 CENTRAL BLACKMOUNT BUTTRESS 
20PaleolithVS *
21NeolithVS
 NORTH BLACKMOUNT BUTTRESS 
23Tombstone CrackS 4a **
24Tombstone WallHS 4b *
25Saturday RockVS 4c **
26The SnakeS **
27PalefaceVS **
28South Tower, Lady's GullyVD
29Lady's GullyVD
30Lady's Gully Left ForkVD
31Lady's Gully Right ForkM
32Lady's GullyIV 4 **
33Collie's ClimbM
 EAGLE BUTTRESS 
35RaptorHVS 5a ***
 RED WALL 
37SmirrVS 4b **
38Forever RedVS 4b
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS - NORTH FACE 
40North Face RouteS **
41North-East CrackHS *
42North Face RouteV 6 **
43Kinloss CornerHS
44Kinloss CornerV 6 *
45Rock ClimbVS 4c *
46Rock Climb - Direct StartS
47SwansongS
48AppaulingVS
49HiccupVS 4c ***
50Has BeenVS
51The GangwayHS *
52Central ChimneyVD
53Central ChimneyIV
54HangoverVS 4c *
55Slanting LedgeVD
56Spillikin RouteS *
57Waterslide WallS
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS - SOUTH FACE 
59Tickled PinkVS 4c
60PlumblineVS 4b *
61Direct RouteVD
62Direct RouteIV *
63Waterslide GullyS *
64Waterslide GullyIV 5 **
65Waterslide CornerE1 5b **
66The VeilV 5 **
67PeglegHVS 5a **
68PilliwinksE1 5a *
69Pilliwinks VariationE1 5a
70PontoonE1 5b ***
71Pontoon - Original Pitch 1E1 5a *
72Pontoon VariationE1 5a
73Gravity And GraceE2 5c
 NORTH-EAST FACE: 
 D GULLY BUTTRESS 
76AlpenIV 4 **
77Special KIV 4 *
78ToastVD
79MarmaladeS
80CornflakeS
81D Gully ButtressD
82D Gully ButtressIII 4 *
83D GullyII *
 CURVED RIDGE 
85Curved RidgeM ***
86Curved Ridge3 **
87Curved RidgeII/III 3 ***
88Iron CrossVS 4c *
89Easy GullyII **
 RANNOCH WALL - RIGHT-HAND SECTION 
91Grooved AreteVS 4b **
92Agag's GrooveVD ***
93Agag's GrooveVII 6 ***
94Curving GrooveVS 5a *
95Juniper GrooveHS
96January JigsawS ***
97January JigsawIV
98Satan's SlitVS 4c **
 RANNOCH WALL - CENTRAL SECTION 
100Pandava's ProgressVS 4c
101A Game of DiceE2 5b *
102A Bridge Too FarE2 5c
103Fear Of A Flat PlanetVIII 8 ***
104Thieves Like UsVS 4c
105Red SlabVS 4c **
106Red SlabVIII 8
107Route IVD
108Route IV 5 **
109Overhanging CrackS
110Line UpHVS 5a **
111Whortleberry WallHVS 4c **
112PlinkHVS 5a *
113Baptism Of FireE4 5c
114Peasant's PassageHVS 5a **
115PlonkVS 4c
 RANNOCH WALL - LEFT-HAND SECTION 
117Wappenshaw WallVS 4b *
118Wappenshaw Wall - Variation Pitch 2E1 5a **
119Shattered WallS
120Chuckle BrothersVI 7 **
121Domino ChimneyS
122Rannoch TraverseVS
123High Level GirdleHS
 NORTH-EAST FACE 
125SymposiumE2 5c
126Engineer's CrackE1 5b **
127Fracture RouteVS 4c **
128DingleHVS 5a **
129The OrphanVS 4c *
130The WidowHVS 5a
131Direct RouteS ***
132Direct Route - Pinnacle Ledge VariationM
133Direct Route - North Chimney VariationM
134Direct Route - Greig's Ledge VariationD
135Direct Route - Speirs' VariationVD
136Direct RouteVII 6 ***
 CROWBERRY TOWER 
138South RidgeM
139South RidgeII/III
140South ChimneyD
141South ChimneyIII
142Route IIM
 NORTH FACE 
144Naismith's RouteIV 5 **
145Hyphen RibD
146Shelf RouteIV 6 ***
147Crowberry GullyIV 4 ***
148Crowberry Gully Centre RibIV 5
149Crowberry Gully Left ForkIV 5 **
150Crowberry GullyVD
151Crowberry Gully Centre RibVD
152Crowberry Gully Left ForkS *
153East RibsIII
 NORTH BUTTRESS - LOWER TIER 
155North-East ZigzagD
156North-East Zigzag VariationVD
157North-East ZigzagIV 4 **
158Slanting GrooveVD
159Royal FlushVS 4c **
160Brevity CrackVS 5a **
161ShabityVS 4b
162Shackle RouteS ***
163Shackle RouteVI 6 ***
164Shattered CrackVS 4c *
165Shattered Crack - Right CrackVS 4c *
166Crow's Nest CrackVS 4c ***
167Mainbrace CrackHVS 5a **
168Mainbrace Crack Direct FinishE2 5c *
169BogtrotterE2 5c
170White Wall CrackE1 5b ***
171Bottleneck ChimneyVS 4b **
172Bottleneck ChimneyVI 7
173Bluebell GroovesE4 6a
174PendulumE2 5c *
175Gallow's RouteE2 5b **
176Creag Dhon't WollE5 6b **
177Girdle Traverse (North Buttress)VS
 NORTH BUTTRESS - UPPER TIER 
179Hangman's CrackVS 4c **
180Hangman's CrackVI 7
181GarotteVS 5a *
182GibbetHVS 5a *
183GibberishE2 5c
184GuillotineHVS 5b
185North Buttress (West Route)M *
186North Buttress (West Route)IV 4 ***
187North Buttress (West Route)3S ***
 NORTH FACE: 
 SLIME WALL 
190PlutocratS
191PlutoS
192BelialVD *
193Misty HighV 5
194Bloody CrackE1 5b ***
195Doom AreteE1 5b, 4b ***
196Bludgers RevelationHVS 5a ***
197Lecher's SuperstitionE2 5c, 5c ***
198GrogblossomE4 4a, 6a **
199ShibbolethE2 5b ***
200Shibboleth - Original FinishE2 5c ***
201The New TestamentE4 4a,6a, ***
202ApocalypseE3 5c,5b, **
203ApparitionE1 5b **
204Guerdon GroovesHVS 5b *
205Guerdon GroovesIX 8 ***
206Raven's GullyHVS 5a ***
207Raven's Gully Direct FinishVS ***
208Raven's GullyV 5 ***
209Raven's Gully Direct FinishVI 6 ***
210Nightmare TraverseE2
211Girdle Traverse (Slime Wall)VS
 CUNEIFORM BUTTRESS - NORTH FACE 
213Raven's EdgeVS 4c **
214Raven's Edge - Direct FinishHVS 5a
215Raven's EdgeVII 8 ***
216Ordinary RouteVD
217Ordinary RouteIV 5 **
218The Central ChimneyS
219Central Chimney DirectVS 5a *
220The Long ChimneyS
221The Long ChimneyIV **
 CUNEIFORM BUTTRESS - WEST FACE 
223Backing OutHS *
224Snowba'sVS 4c **
225The Mighty AtomE2 5c **
226Lift OffHVS 5a,4c **
227Cuneiform CornerIV 4 *
228Cuneiform Corner ContinuationIII *
229Overhanging GrooveS
230Great GullyII
 GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS - EAST FACE 
232Un-named IcefallIII
233Trident Crack DirectHS *
234August CrackHVS 5a **
235July CrackHVS 5a ***
236Playmate Of The MonthE3 6a
237June CrackVS 4c/5a **
238June CrackV
239Augley CrackHVS 5a *
240Direct RouteHS 4b **
241Direct RouteVI 6 **
242LedgewayHS 4a *
243Ledgeway Direct StartVS 4c **
244Ledgeway Final VariationS *
245The WhipE1 5b **
 GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS - NORTH FACE 
247Sundown SlabS **
248Great Flake RouteVD
249Great Flake RouteIV
250Sunset GrooveVD
251Sunset RibVD
252Girdle Traverse (Great Gully Buttress)VS 5a
253Great Gully Buttress3S
254Great Gully ButtressII/III
 GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS - UPPER 
256Happy ValleyE1 5b **
257YamE1 5b **
258YammayE2 5b **
259Yammay VariationE2 5c
260May CrackVS 5a ***
261May CrackV
262Curried YakHVS 5a
263FacadeHS 4a **
264Bent CrackVD
265Bent Crack RibVD
 GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS - FLEM WALL 
267SgubVS
268Seek TochilS
269ShasmakelmanovVS
 BROAD BUTTRESS WEST FACE 
271Ephemeron GullyIV 4
272Pedlar's GrooveS
273Hawker's CrackS
274PaladinVS
275MesonVS
276Broad Buttress2 **
 STAIRCASE BUTTRESS 
278Pedestal AreteS
279Original RouteVD
280East Chimney VariationVD
281East Chimney VariationIII
282Rehabilitation RouteS
283BagVS
284Blaeberry RibVD
 LAGANGARBH BUTTRESS 
286Sassenach GrooveHVS 5a
287East FaceHS
288Bollard SlabHS
289Nameless WallHS
290Nameless GrooveVD
291Crest Route / Left EdgeS *
292Lagangarbh ChimneyD **
293Lagangarbh ChimneyIII
294PangVS 5a *
295InfectedIII
296Lagangarbh Buttress3 **
 COIRE NA TULAICH - EAST FLANK 
298North East Ridge of Creag Coire na Tulaich3 **
299The DialVD
300The DialIII 4
301Pinball WizardHVS 5a
302The ShieldHVS 5a
303DodgyE2 5b
304Crack CocaineE1 5b
305A Friend In NeedE3 5c *
306Slack AlanE2 5b
307The SentinelE1 5b
308To Kill A Mocking BirdE2 5c
309SliverIII
310Headwall Buttress ClimbM
 COIRE NA TULAICH - WEST FLANK 
312NobadVD
313AwrongVD
314The SpateIV 6
315AwriteS
316SosoVD
317DinnaekenVS
318UhuhS
319Four Feather FallsIII
320Chimney RouteII/III
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Central buttress south face, abseil tat in place at top and midway, August 2014
abbeywall - 02/Sep/14
Abseil sling in place above engineers crack. Seems sound as 18/7/14
David Smith - 19/Jul/14
Brand new black abseil sling added to the big spike on Pegleg 9th Oct. 2010. Please leave. Ian Jones
Ian Jones - 10/Oct/10
Curved Ridge is not on the east face of North Buttress.
Andy Moles - 16/Sep/09
Agags Groove is 'old' IV, now VII, 7 or something. So watch out! MacInnes and Bonnington sandbagging a touch...
I am the God of Stratheyre - 22/May/05
Can't agree with the comment about Ravens Edge being 'poor in summer'. A few rattly holds, yes, but the line is excellent, the climbing really atmospheric and you get a cracking view of the upper part of Shibboleth at close hand across the void of Ravens Gully. Reasonably intimidating but a must for the connoiseur of mountain VS.....
GFoz - 22/Dec/03