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These details were last updated on 13/Nov/2013

Buachaille Etive Mor

Highland, SCOTLAND

Climbs 287 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 685m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Rannoch Wall offers middle grade climbs of huge exposure and verticality in an impressive situation with a huge outlook over the Rannoch Moor. Great rock and quick drying with good early morning sunshine. Agags Groove is a classic V Diff route which traverses the face graded VII in winter. January Jigsaw(S), Whortleberry Wall(HVS), Line Up(HVS), and Direct Route (S) are all three star classics worthy of anyone's attention.

Access notes
From the waterslide slabs a path zig-zags to the foot of D-Gully buttress and then curves right past Curved Ridge to the Wall.

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

2.5mm rain
Sunny periods
17 °C
16 kph

3.9mm rain
Cloudy
16 °C
23 kph

5.9mm rain
Cloudy
14 °C
24 kph

2.4mm rain
Cloudy
14 °C
15 kph

0.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
18 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Northwest HighlandsMet Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Glen Coe (2001), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Scottish Winter Climbs (1996), Glen Coe (1992)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 SOUTH-EAST FACE:  
 THE CHASM  
3South GullyM 1
4Starting BrightS  
5Hailstone WallS  
6The ChasmVS ***99
7The Chasm - The South ChimneyVS 4c 5
8The Chasm - The Direct RouteVS 4c 1
9The ChasmIV 4 *** 
10The Chasm North WallII  
11The Chasm to Crowberry TraverseM 5
12The Chasm To Crowberry TraverseII *1
 SOUTH BLACKMOUNT BUTTRESS  
14LimboVS 4c *1
15FlamingoVS 4c **2
16Whispering GroovesVS 4c ***5
17The MutchkinVS 4c *2
18LittlekinHS 4a  
 CENTRAL BLACKMOUNT BUTTRESS  
20PaleolithVS *1
21NeolithVS  
 NORTH BLACKMOUNT BUTTRESS  
23Saturday RockVS 4c ** 
24The SnakeS **1
25PalefaceVS ** 
26South Tower, Lady's GullyVD  
27Lady's GullyVD  
28Lady's Gully Left ForkVD  
29Lady's Gully Right ForkM  
30Lady's GullyIV 4 ** 
31Collie's ClimbM  
 EAGLE BUTTRESS  
33RaptorHVS 5a ***2
 RED WALL  
35SmirrVS 4b **1
36Forever RedVS 4b 1
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS - NORTH FACE  
38North Face RouteS **199
39North-East CrackHS *1
40North Face RouteV 6 **5
41Kinloss CornerHS 5
42Kinloss CornerV 6 * 
43Rock ClimbVS 4c *6
44Rock Climb - Direct StartS  
45SwansongS  
46AppaulingVS  
47HiccupVS 4c ***55
48Has BeenVS  
49The GangwayHS * 
50Central ChimneyVD 1
51Central ChimneyIV 2
52HangoverVS 4c *3
53Slanting LedgeVD 1
54Spillikin RouteS * 
55Waterslide WallS 1
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS - SOUTH FACE  
57Tickled PinkVS 4c  
58PlumblineVS 4b * 
59Direct RouteVD 2
60Direct RouteIV * 
61Waterslide GullyS * 
62Waterslide GullyIV 5 ** 
63Waterslide CornerE1 5b **4
64The VeilV 5 ** 
65PeglegHVS 5a **13
66PilliwinksE1 5a *2
67Pilliwinks VariationE1 5a  
68PontoonE1 5b ***11
69Pontoon - Original Pitch 1E1 5a * 
70Pontoon VariationE1 5a  
71Gravity And GraceE2 5c  
 NORTH-EAST FACE:  
 D GULLY BUTTRESS  
74AlpenIV 4 **2
75Special KIV 4 * 
76ToastVD 1
77MarmaladeS  
78CornflakeS  
79D Gully ButtressD 39
80D Gully ButtressIII 4 *40
81D GullyII *8
 CURVED RIDGE  
83Curved RidgeM ***484
84Curved Ridge3 **224
85Curved RidgeII/III 3 ***644
86Iron CrossVS 4c *1
87Easy GullyII **8
 RANNOCH WALL - RIGHT-HAND SECTION  
89Grooved AreteVS 4b **76
90Agag's GrooveVD ***786
91Agag's GrooveVII 6 ***7
92Curving GrooveVS 5a *10
93Juniper GrooveHS 8
94January JigsawS ***385
95January JigsawIV 1
96Satan's SlitVS 4c **90
 RANNOCH WALL - CENTRAL SECTION  
98Pandava's ProgressVS 4c 2
99A Game of DiceE2 5b *3
100A Bridge Too FarE2 5c  
101Fear Of A Flat PlanetVIII 8 ***1
102Thieves Like UsVS 4c 1
103Red SlabVS 4c **30
104Red SlabVIII 8 1
105Route IVD 3
106Route IV 5 **1
107Overhanging CrackS 1
108Line UpHVS 5a **47
109Whortleberry WallHVS 4c **14
110PlinkHVS 5a *2
111Baptism Of FireE4 5c  
112Peasant's PassageHVS 5a **13
113PlonkVS 4c 1
 RANNOCH WALL - LEFT-HAND SECTION  
115Wappenshaw WallVS 4b *9
116Wappenshaw Wall - Variation Pitch 2E1 5a **3
117Shattered WallS 3
118Chuckle BrothersVI 7 ** 
119Domino ChimneyS  
120Rannoch TraverseVS 2
121High Level GirdleHS  
 NORTH-EAST FACE  
123SymposiumE2 5c 5
124Engineer's CrackE1 5b **68
125Fracture RouteVS 4c **73
126DingleHVS 5a **21
127The OrphanVS 4c *3
128The WidowHVS 5a  
129Direct RouteS ***81
130Direct Route - Pinnacle Ledge VariationM  
131Direct Route - North Chimney VariationM  
132Direct Route - Greig's Ledge VariationD 1
133Direct Route - Speirs' VariationVD 2
134Direct RouteVII 6 ***2
 CROWBERRY TOWER  
136South RidgeM 17
137South RidgeII/III  
138South ChimneyD 4
139South ChimneyIII 1
140Route IIM 2
 NORTH FACE  
142Naismith's RouteIV 5 **10
143Hyphen RibD  
144Shelf RouteIV 6 ***17
145Crowberry GullyIV 4 ***164
146Crowberry Gully Centre RibIV 5  
147Crowberry Gully Left ForkIV 5 **3
148Crowberry GullyVD 3
149Crowberry Gully Centre RibVD  
150Crowberry Gully Left ForkS * 
151East RibsIII  
 NORTH BUTTRESS - LOWER TIER  
153North-East ZigzagD 2
154North-East Zigzag VariationVD  
155North-East ZigzagIV 4 **2
156Slanting GrooveVD 2
157Royal FlushVS 4c **9
158Brevity CrackVS 5a **37
159ShabityVS 4b 1
160Shackle RouteS ***107
 Climb nameGradex
161Shackle RouteVI 6 ***2
162Shattered CrackVS 4c *17
163Shattered Crack - Right CrackVS 4c *2
164Crow's Nest CrackVS 4c ***85
165Mainbrace CrackHVS 5a **26
166Mainbrace Crack Direct FinishE2 5c * 
167BogtrotterE2 5c 1
168White Wall CrackE1 5b ***18
169Bottleneck ChimneyVS 4b **28
170Bottleneck ChimneyVI 7  
171Bluebell GroovesE4 6a 1
172PendulumE2 5c *2
173Gallow's RouteE2 5b **4
174Creag Dhon't WollE5 6b **2
175Girdle Traverse (North Buttress)VS  
 NORTH BUTTRESS - UPPER TIER  
177Hangman's CrackVS 4c **35
178Hangman's CrackVI 7 1
179GarotteVS 5a *4
180GibbetHVS 5a *2
181GibberishE2 5c  
182GuillotineHVS 5b  
183North Buttress (West Route)M *115
184North Buttress (West Route)IV 4 ***231
185North Buttress (West Route)3S ***26
 NORTH FACE:  
 SLIME WALL  
188PlutocratS  
189PlutoS  
190BelialVD *1
191Misty HighV 5 1
192Bloody CrackE1 5b ***11
193Doom AreteE1 5b, 4b ***2
194Bludgers RevelationHVS 5a ***134
195Lecher's SuperstitionE2 5c, 5c ***5
196GrogblossomE4 4a, 6a ** 
197ShibbolethE2 5b ***95
198Shibboleth - Original FinishE2 5c ***7
199The New TestamentE4 4a,6a, ***6
200ApocalypseE3 5c,5b, **1
201ApparitionE1 5b **11
202Guerdon GroovesHVS 5b *4
203Guerdon GroovesIX 8 *** 
204Raven's GullyHVS 5a ***27
205Raven's Gully Direct FinishVS ***1
206Raven's GullyV 5 ***19
207Raven's Gully Direct FinishVI 6 ***2
208Nightmare TraverseE2  
209Girdle Traverse (Slime Wall)VS  
 CUNEIFORM BUTTRESS - NORTH FACE  
211Raven's EdgeVS 4c **35
212Raven's Edge - Direct FinishHVS 5a 2
213Raven's EdgeVII 8 ***3
214Ordinary RouteVD  
215Ordinary RouteIV 5 ** 
216The Central ChimneyS  
217Central Chimney DirectVS 5a * 
218The Long ChimneyS  
219The Long ChimneyIV ** 
 CUNEIFORM BUTTRESS - WEST FACE  
221Backing OutHS * 
222Snowba'sVS 4c ** 
223The Mighty AtomE2 5c ** 
224Lift OffHVS 5a,4c ** 
225Cuneiform CornerIV 4 *2
226Cuneiform Corner ContinuationIII * 
227Overhanging GrooveS  
228Great GullyII 40
 GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS - EAST FACE  
230Un-named IcefallIII 1
231Trident Crack DirectHS * 
232August CrackHVS 5a **14
233July CrackHVS 5a ***20
234Playmate Of The MonthE3 6a  
235June CrackVS 4c/5a **46
236June CrackV 2
237Augley CrackHVS 5a *1
238Direct RouteHS 4b **10
239Direct RouteVI 6 ** 
240LedgewayHS 4a *3
241Ledgeway Direct StartVS 4c **3
242Ledgeway Final VariationS * 
243The WhipE1 5b **4
 GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS - NORTH FACE  
245Sundown SlabS **1
246Great Flake RouteVD 2
247Great Flake RouteIV  
248Sunset GrooveVD  
249Sunset RibVD  
250Girdle Traverse (Great Gully Buttress)VS 5a  
251Great Gully Buttress3S 14
252Great Gully ButtressII/III 3
 GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS - UPPER  
254Happy ValleyE1 5b **2
255YamE1 5b **14
256YammayE2 5b **11
257Yammay VariationE2 5c 1
258May CrackVS 5a ***40
259May CrackV 1
260Curried YakHVS 5a 1
261FacadeHS 4a **5
262Bent CrackVD 2
263Bent Crack RibVD 1
 GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS - FLEM WALL  
265SgubVS  
266Seek TochilS  
267ShasmakelmanovVS  
 BROAD BUTTRESS WEST FACE  
269Ephemeron GullyIV 4 1
270Pedlar's GrooveS  
271Hawker's CrackS  
272PaladinVS  
273MesonVS  
274Broad Buttress2 **14
 STAIRCASE BUTTRESS  
276Pedestal AreteS  
277Original RouteVD  
278East Chimney VariationVD  
279East Chimney VariationIII  
280Rehabilitation RouteS 1
281BagVS  
282Blaeberry RibVD  
 LAGANGARBH BUTTRESS  
284Sassenach GrooveHVS 5a  
285East FaceHS  
286Bollard SlabHS  
287Nameless WallHS  
288Nameless GrooveVD  
289Crest Route / Left EdgeS *2
290Lagangarbh ChimneyD **6
291Lagangarbh ChimneyIII 2
292PangVS 5a *1
293InfectedIII 1
294Lagangarbh Buttress3 **16
 COIRE NA TULAICH - EAST FLANK  
296North East Ridge of Creag Coire na Tulaich3 **7
297The DialVD  
298The DialIII 4  
299Pinball WizardHVS 5a  
300The ShieldHVS 5a  
301DodgyE2 5b  
302Crack CocaineE1 5b  
303A Friend In NeedE3 5c * 
304Slack AlanE2 5b  
305The SentinelE1 5b  
306To Kill A Mocking BirdE2 5c  
307SliverIII 1
308Headwall Buttress ClimbM 2
 COIRE NA TULAICH - WEST FLANK  
310NobadVD  
311AwrongVD  
312The SpateIV 6  
313AwriteS  
314SosoVD  
315DinnaekenVS  
316UhuhS  
317Four Feather FallsIII  
318Chimney RouteII/III 1
319Tombstone Crack *S 4a **1
320Tombstone Wall *HS 4b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Abseil sling in place above engineers crack. Seems sound as 18/7/14
David Smith - 19/Jul/14

Brand new black abseil sling added to the big spike on Pegleg 9th Oct. 2010. Please leave. Ian Jones
Ian Jones - 10/Oct/10

Curved Ridge is not on the east face of North Buttress.
Andy Moles - 16/Sep/09

Agags Groove is 'old' IV, now VII, 7 or something. So watch out! MacInnes and Bonnington sandbagging a touch...
I am the God of Stratheyre - 22/May/05

Can't agree with the comment about Ravens Edge being 'poor in summer'. A few rattly holds, yes, but the line is excellent, the climbing really atmospheric and you get a cracking view of the upper part of Shibboleth at close hand across the void of Ravens Gully. Reasonably intimidating but a must for the connoiseur of mountain VS.....
GFoz - 22/Dec/03