Lustleigh Cleave (Ravens Rocks)

Climbs 42 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
A wonderful if difficult to find collection of problems. Problems of all types can be found in this small area including walls, slabs, cracks and some large roofs with spectacular climbing.

The climbing is fairly spread out with Lower Raven rocks being fairly close to the routes at Harton Chest. Upper Raven Rocks is found with the description below and the problems are listed in order from left to right from here back toward Harton Chest.

Approach notes
A tricky place to find at the best of times follow the description for Lustleigh Cleve up to to the hill and Harton Chest. From here continue along the plateau for a couple of minutes until you reach a rack used to store fire beaters. From here a 100 yards or so leads to a split in the path, take the left fork and immediately take the vague left path leading to the top of the crag. If you are very lucky! For Lower Raven Rocks take an earlier path just after passing Harton Chest.

Guidebooks
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 UPPER RAVEN ROCKS  
 TOP TIER  
3OverkillV5 6b * 
4Sharp AreteV1 5c * 
5Right AreteV2 5c * 
6Runnel & GrooveV1 5c  
7Mono ProblemV4 6b * 
 MIDDLE TIER  
9Hung like a ChimpV6 6b ***1
10Hung like a GimpV5 6b **1
11Harton ChestwingV2 6a **1
12Slopey TraverseV3 6a 6
 LOWER TIER  
14Crack & SlabV2 4c 1
 PROJECT BOULDER  
 OVERHANGING FLAKE BOULDER  
17Useful Slopey DishV5 6a *1
18Overhanging FlakeV4 6a **1
19Step OffV1 5a 1
 GREEN CRACK BOULDER  
21Green Crack LeftV3 6a  
22Crystal LeftV4 6a 1
23Cristaly GubbinsV6  
24Stu's Moist CrackV2 6a ***4
25Green Crack AreteV3 5c 1
 LOWER RAVEN ROCKS  
 BOYS IN THE WOOD  
 CREAMTIME BOULDER  
29Raven WallV3 **4
30Semi SkimmedV7 * 
31CreamtimeV7 ** 
 THREE TIER BUTTRESS  
33The Ninja BoysV5 6b *1
 STRICTLY COMING AREA  
35Strictly Coming No DancingV5 6b **1
36Strictly Dancing No ComingV3 5c *1
37Undercut AreteV4 6a **2
 ARETES AREA  
39Easy SideV0 5a **1
40Macca's AreteV2 5c *2
41RhymeV3 5c ***2
42ReasonV1 5b **3
43Testing MantelV0 5a **2
 FISH BOULDER  
45Coracao StartV2 5c 1
46Coracao da GalinhaV7 6a *** 
47Hither & TitherV0 5a *2
48Momma Told me not to comeV3 6a *2
49Moss ChopsV5 6b  
50Sleepy TimeV2 6b 1
51Right SideV1 5b  
 CRACKED EGG BOULDER  
53Scoop DeGrasV0 4b * 
54Tower of GunsV3 5c ***3
55Baby SlabV1 5b ***3
 CHEESEGRATER SLAB  
57CheesegraterV2 5c **1
58Eternal SummerV3 5c **1
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