Climbs 174
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

Concretion © Oliver Buxton

Crag features

Unquarried limestone, generally sound, single pitch routes, many of outstanding quality, 10-30 metres. A couple of routes are over graded but some are hard for their grade - Touch The Fire (E2 5c) is no pushover. Majority of routes HVS-E2. Descent by abseil from trees. 60m rope necessary for some routes if single-roping. Beware loose rock at cliff top.

Approach notes

Park at Tintern Abbey, walk along the A466 (NW) for about 500 metres until you can cross the river on a foot bridge. Follow the level track until metal posts on the left indicate a steep path. Follow the path, taking the rightmost option at every fork to reach a forestry track after about 25 minutes walk. Turn R onto the forestry track, and carry on for about 500 metres where a sign "R4" is visible on the LHS. This access path leads to "Tigers Don't Cry" on Abbey Buttress at the L end of the crag.

For other buttresses, either (i) follow the crag path rightwards, or (ii) continue on the forestry track until a sign R3a indicates the access route to Great Central Cave Area. Beyond this R3,R2 & R1 lead to Pinnacle Wall, The White Towers & Hit and Run Buttress respectively. Note: bring head torches - you don't want to scramble down in the dark.

A warning has been posted on the forums about a rockfall on the upper reaches of "Llamas in the Loft" (The Buttress with No Name) - it may be worth avoiding this (fairly poor) route for the moment Rick
Rick Sewards - 13/Apr/15
My friend fell of "Hit and Run" (E2) in the hit and run area (R1) today and hit the deck from twenty meters all gear was left on route if you are next up please contact felixottey@gmail.com to return it. The kit left institute may become part of a police investigation. 07879084688 is my contact number Felix.
Felix Ottey - 15/Jun/14
A really brilliant crag. Perfect for high volume days of climbing. I dont think i've actually climbed a bad route here. Most routes are very safe. Well deserving of it's reputation as a softly graded venue. Though there's a few stiff routes to keep you on your toes.
Kemics - 24/Jun/13
I'm not convinced about the star distribution at Shorn cliff, as nearly all the rock and routes are good. I don't think there is one route that is truly worth three stars but then i think there are many that are worth one and certainly a lot that are worth two.
Urgles - 11/Oct/09
Thread Security (VS 5a) - 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so and a large, wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 25/Mar/09
Climbed "Thread Security - The Buttress with No Name" today. 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so recently and a large wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 21/Mar/09
Did Laughing Cavaliers HVS on 19th May. Awesome route. There is now a huge fallen tree at the foot of the cliff, which looks like it has fallen from the very top of the route. The big flake at the top still feels very solid but the loss of the tree might have compromised its long term stability.
lmarenzi - 22/May/08
take lots of small wires and quickdraws
Dr Caterpillar - 04/Aug/07
Re: above comment -Wall cleaned up nicely - Did "Iron Curtain", definately a worthwhile VS, "Another brick in the wall" looks ok as well.
The Pylon King - 17/Mar/07
The section of the crag between Dirty Harry and Organ Grinder has recently been stripped of its ivy. The routes will now be a much more pleasant proposition! I've not climbed any of them myself yet, but they look worth the effort.
katonka - 19/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Petit Mort
-
E3 5c 4
2On Reflection
-
VS 4c  
3One Way Glass
-
E2 6a 1
4Gorillas in the Garden
-
HVS 5a 4
5Lazy L
-
VS 4c 40
6Edge Game
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HVS 5a 4
7Wet Sunday
-
VS 4b 8
8Birth Canal + Wet Sunday
-
E3 5b 3
9Gargoyle
-
HS 4b 350
10Alta VistaVS 4c 237
11Party PieceE3 6a *29
12BeelineVS 4c 66
13Rumble in the Jungle
-
HVS 5a 54
14The BoneE1 5b **391
15Pooh SticksE1 5b **181
16A Bolt from the Blue
-
E3 5c 6
17Tigers Don't CryHVS 5a ***584
18Three Score Years and TenE6 6b 4
19AcousticVD *519
20Intravenous FeedingVS 4c 75
21Social Criticism
-
E1 5b *106
22Side EffectsE1 5b **140
23Hydraulic JumpVS 4c *333
24Brain Washed
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E4 6a  
25Self DefenceVS 4c 10
26Rule the Roost
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VS 4b  
27The OrphanE1 5b 20
28Heavy Plant Crossing
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VS 4c *171
29Alone in a Crowd
-
HVS 5b *79
30Breech BirthE1 5b 35
31The Long Reach
-
HVS 5a *103
32Artificial Insemination
-
HVS 5a 37
33Indecisive Victory
-
HS 4b 190
34Llamas in the Loft
-
HVS 5a 13
35Thread SecurityVS 5a 25
36Probing in the Dark
-
HVS 5b 20
37Secret IdentityVS 4c *210
38Dirty Harry
-
HS 4b 135
39Aquatic Cyclist
-
VS 5a 22
40Name in the Book
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E1 5b *58
41East to West
-
HS 4b 83
42The Iron CurtainVS 4c *389
43Another Brick in the WallVS 4c 79
44Defection
-
HVS 4c 6
45Dictator
-
HVS 5a *105
46Traitor
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E1 5a *92
47Temporary TruceVS 4c *308
48Organ GrinderHVS 5a **476
49Five Pints
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E3 6a 15
50Kill the ToriesHVS 5a 1
51Jug? What Jug?!
-
VS 4c 48
52One Less White NiggerVS 4c **443
53Emotional DyslexiaHVS 5a **396
54Emotional Dyslexia direct start
-
E1 5a **14
55Night RiderHS 4b *370
56Green Meanie
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E3 5c *32
57Motion PicturesE1 5b ***450
58Touch the FireE2 5c **250
59Last CallVS 5a *177
60Cruisin' for a Bruisin'
-
E1 5b 3
61IntermissionHS 4b 86
62Wolf WhistleS *201
63Trouble Brewing
-
E3 6a 7
64Cry WolfVD 155
65Pump it up... AgainE2 5b 5
66Renaissance
-
E1 5b **167
67Bursting the Renaissance Bubble
-
HVS 5a *15
68Bubble MemoryHVS 5a **127
69One Step Down
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E1 5a 7
70Streaker
-
HVS 5a 1
71...Think of England Direct
-
E1 5b *12
72...Think of England
-
VS 4c 8
73Damsel in Distress
-
VS 4c 19
74Lucky Star
-
E1 5b 1
75Yer Money or Yer Life
-
VS 4c 7
76Che GuevaraHVS 5a **8
77Stand and Deliver
-
E1 5b **128
78Ironside's Men
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E2 5b **173
79The Spanish Inquisition
-
E1 5a *117
80Treason
-
HVS 5a *88
81All for One...
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HVS 5a **309
82Bitter Battle Tears
-
HVS 5a ***739
83A King's Ransom
-
E3 6a 17
84The Laughing CavaliersHVS 5a ***1097
85No Musketeers
-
HVS 5a ***490
86No Musketeers (Direct Finish)E1 5c ***278
87...One for AllHS 4b **980
88War is DeclaredE1 5b 5
89The New RepublicHVS 5a *23
90Armistice
-
VS 4b 5
91No Surrender
-
VS 4c 4
92War of the Worlds
-
VS 4c *381
93Peace in Our Time
-
HVS 5a 50
94The Phoney WarHS 4b *657
95Rebellion
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E1 5b *129
96State of IndependenceVS 4b **671
97Seven Chinese Brothers
-
E1 5a  
98Oogmuts
-
E3 5b  
99Much Ado About Nothing
-
E1 5a *12
100Complex Variable
-
E1 5a 1
101All in a Day's Work
-
E2 5c 1
102The Land of NodE2 5c 3
103Wet Dreams
-
E1 4c 1
104Fallacy
-
HVS 5a *142
105Expectant ChimpE4 5c 3
106Lundy Calling
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E4 5c ***77
107The English Opium EatersE6 6b 14
108Cool Heat
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E2 5b *122
109Colour Dreams/Dream Topping Finish
-
E1 5a  
110Protoplasm
-
E4 6b  
111The Numbers Game
-
E1 5c  
112Paroxysm
-
E2 5b  
113White Water
-
VS 4c  
114Walk Don't Run
-
VS 4c  
115A Is for Apple
-
HS 4a 1
116B Is for BagE3 5c  
117The Pinnacle of Success
-
VS 4b 6
118Stuck on You
-
E1 5b *61
119A Stitch in Time
-
E1 5b *36
120The Hit
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E3 6a 11
121Freak Brother Convention
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E2 5b  
122Relics
-
E1 5b 4
123Second Wind
-
E2 5c *18
124Higher Flier
-
E1 5b  
125Femme Fatale
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E1 5a 1
126Smart Arse
-
E2 5b *4
127Insurrection
-
E2 5c *1
128Symbiosis
-
E1 5a  
129Jungle Rock
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E2 5b 1
130Doing the Bop
-
E3 5c  
131Blood Brothers
-
E1 5a 7
132Heart of Stone
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E1 5a *43
133Nosey Bleeder
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E3 5c 8
134Run for HomeE2 5b **194
135Running on Empty
-
E3 5c *21
136Easy Rider
-
E1 5b **140
137Running Hot
-
E2 5c **74
138Loss Of InnocenceHVS 5a *102
139Fat Man in Ethiopia
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HVS 5a *47
140Turn to Stone
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VS 4c 4
141Character Assassination
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E1 5a 2
142Pink Ticket
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HS 4b 2
143Cultural Revolution
-
HVS 5a 2
144The Little White Tower
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E2 5b  
145Blanc Wall
-
HVS 5a  
146Pretty Baby
-
E2 5b  
147The White Tower
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E1 5b 1
148Hit and Run
-
E2 5b **49
149Chappell of RestE5 6c  
150Touche Pussycat
-
E1 5c **35
151Colin's Apprentice
-
E4 6b *2
152Cat Be Nimble, Cat Be Quick
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E2 5c *7
153The First Crusade
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HS 4b 2
154Incredible Voyage
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HVS 5a 3
155Poka Dot
-
E2 5c *3
156This Space Reserved
-
E1 5b 4
157Synapse Collapse
-
E4 6a *1
158The First Crusade
-
HS 4b 7
159Ramraider
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E5 6b *1
160A Good Day For Gravity
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E2 5b/c  
161Nobby's Piles
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E2 5c  
162Mister Angry
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E2 5c *1
163Blind Rage
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E3 5c  
164Flatlander
-
E2 5c  
165Angry Young Men
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HS 4b 3
166Santorini
-
VS 4b 1
167Dazed and ConfusedS 5
168Gnarly old MenE5 6a 2
169Today you shall be with me in paradiseE4 6a *1
170My Normal FaceHVS 4c *1
171Fuck the CoalitionE1 5c 3
172Three BananasHVS 4c 5
173Roundhead's RevengeE1 5c 2
174Iron FlyV5 *1

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