Climbs 175
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

Concretion © Oliver Buxton

Crag features

Unquarried limestone, generally sound, single pitch routes, many of outstanding quality, 10-30 metres. A couple of routes are over graded but some are hard for their grade - Touch The Fire (E2 5c) is no pushover. Majority of routes HVS-E2. Descent by abseil from trees. 60m rope necessary for some routes if single-roping. Beware loose rock at cliff top.

Approach notes

Park at Tintern Abbey, walk along the A466 (NW) for about 500 metres until you can cross the river on a foot bridge. Follow the level track until metal posts on the left indicate a steep path. Follow the path, taking the rightmost option at every fork to reach a forestry track after about 25 minutes walk. Turn R onto the forestry track, and carry on for about 500 metres where a sign "R4" is visible on the LHS. This access path leads to "Tigers Don't Cry" on Abbey Buttress at the L end of the crag.
For other buttresses, either (i) follow the crag path rightwards, or (ii) continue on the forestry track until a sign R3a indicates the access route to Great Central Cave Area. Beyond this R3,R2 & R1 lead to Pinnacle Wall, The White Towers & Hit and Run Buttress respectively. Note: bring head torches - you don't want to scramble down in the dark.

If you access from the Tintern Quarry parking please do not block any of the gates. These are very important to facilitated the access of emergency services in case of an emergency so it can save your own life.

Yesterday (11/07/2016) we had an accident at The White Towers. Trying to climb Cultural Revolution a block came off, a protection popped and my climbing partner hit the ground with a bit of slow down from the protection that hold. Extraction was tricky and involved paramedics, rope rescue and a couple of teams of firemen. He is fine now, just one vertebra broken and a nasty cut in his leg. In the same route just at the top of the initial corner we found a massive block that is about to come off. I am planning to come back, recover the gear left and clean up. In the meantime I would suggest to avoid the route and "The Little White Tower" area in general. Also note it is very important not to block the wooden gate if you park at Tintern Quarry parking as it facilitated the access of emergency services.
FernandoHidalgo - 11/Jul/16
A warning has been posted on the forums about a rockfall on the upper reaches of "Llamas in the Loft" (The Buttress with No Name) - it may be worth avoiding this (fairly poor) route for the moment Rick
Rick Sewards - 13/Apr/15
My friend fell of "Hit and Run" (E2) in the hit and run area (R1) today and hit the deck from twenty meters all gear was left on route if you are next up please contact felixottey@gmail.com to return it. The kit left institute may become part of a police investigation. 07879084688 is my contact number Felix.
Felix Ottey - 15/Jun/14
A really brilliant crag. Perfect for high volume days of climbing. I dont think i've actually climbed a bad route here. Most routes are very safe. Well deserving of it's reputation as a softly graded venue. Though there's a few stiff routes to keep you on your toes.
Kemics - 24/Jun/13
I'm not convinced about the star distribution at Shorn cliff, as nearly all the rock and routes are good. I don't think there is one route that is truly worth three stars but then i think there are many that are worth one and certainly a lot that are worth two.
Mark Davies PK - 11/Oct/09
Thread Security (VS 5a) - 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so and a large, wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 25/Mar/09
Climbed "Thread Security - The Buttress with No Name" today. 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so recently and a large wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 21/Mar/09
Did Laughing Cavaliers HVS on 19th May. Awesome route. There is now a huge fallen tree at the foot of the cliff, which looks like it has fallen from the very top of the route. The big flake at the top still feels very solid but the loss of the tree might have compromised its long term stability.
lmarenzi - 22/May/08
take lots of small wires and quickdraws
Dr Caterpillar - 04/Aug/07
Re: above comment -Wall cleaned up nicely - Did "Iron Curtain", definately a worthwhile VS, "Another brick in the wall" looks ok as well.
The Pylon King - 17/Mar/07
The section of the crag between Dirty Harry and Organ Grinder has recently been stripped of its ivy. The routes will now be a much more pleasant proposition! I've not climbed any of them myself yet, but they look worth the effort.
katonka - 19/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Abbey Butress 
2Petit Mort
-
E3 5c 4
3On Reflection
-
VS 4c  
4One Way Glass
-
E2 6a 1
5Gorillas in the Garden
-
HVS 5a 4
6Lazy L
-
VS 4c 42
7Edge Game
-
HVS 5a 4
8Wet Sunday
-
VS 4b 8
9Birth Canal + Wet Sunday
-
E3 5b 3
10Gargoyle
-
HS 4b 368
11Alta VistaVS 4c 251
12Party PieceE3 6a *33
13BeelineVS 4c 70
14Rumble in the Jungle
-
HVS 5a 57
15The BoneE1 5b **431
16Pooh SticksE1 5b **210
17A Bolt from the Blue
-
E3 5c 7
18Tigers Don't CryHVS 5a ***615
19Three Score Years and TenE6 6b 4
20AcousticVD *545
21Intravenous FeedingVS 4c 85
22Social Criticism
-
E1 5b *120
23Side EffectsE1 5b **160
24Hydraulic JumpVS 4c *348
25Brain Washed
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E4 6a  
26Self DefenceVS 4c 11
 The Butress with No Name 
28Rule the Roost
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VS 4b  
29The OrphanE1 5b 22
30Heavy Plant Crossing
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VS 4c *198
31Alone in a Crowd
-
HVS 5b *90
32Breech BirthE1 5b 36
33The Long Reach
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HVS 5a *116
34Artificial Insemination
-
HVS 5a 39
35Indecisive Victory
-
HS 4b 194
36Llamas in the Loft
-
HVS 5a 14
37Thread SecurityVS 5a 25
38Probing in the Dark
-
HVS 5b 23
39Secret IdentityVS 4c *228
40Dirty Harry
-
HS 4b 144
41Aquatic Cyclist
-
VS 5a 22
42Gnarly old MenE5 6a 2
43Today you shall be with me in paradiseE4 6a *1
 The Berlin Wall 
45Name in the Book
-
E1 5b *58
46East to WestHS 4b 89
47The Iron Curtain
-
VS 4c *407
48Another Brick in the WallVS 4c 86
49Defection
-
HVS 4c 6
50Dictator
-
HVS 5a *115
51Traitor
-
E1 5a *101
52Temporary TruceVS 4c *344
53Organ GrinderHVS 5a **505
54Five Pints
-
E3 6a 15
55Kill the ToriesHVS 5a 1
 Fallen Block Buttress 
57Jug? What Jug?!
-
VS 4c 54
58One Less White NiggerVS 4c **522
59Emotional DyslexiaHVS 5a **450
60Emotional Dyslexia direct start
-
E1 5a **25
61Night RiderHS 4b *379
62Green Meanie
-
E3 5c *37
 Tiger Bay 
64Motion PicturesE1 5b ***475
65Touch the FireE2 5c **278
66Last CallVS 5a *183
67Cruisin' for a Bruisin'
-
E1 5b 4
68IntermissionHS 4b 94
69Wolf WhistleS *220
70Trouble Brewing
-
E3 6a 7
71Cry WolfVD 159
72Dazed and ConfusedS 6
73Three BananasHVS 4c 5
74Fuck the CoalitionE1 5c 3
75Pump it up... AgainE2 5b 5
76Renaissance
-
E1 5b **194
77Bursting the Renaissance Bubble
-
HVS 5a *17
78Bubble MemoryHVS 5a **146
79One Step Down
-
E1 5a 7
80Streaker
-
HVS 5a 1
81...Think of England Direct
-
E1 5b *13
 Great Central Cave Area 
83...Think of England
-
VS 4c 9
84Damsel in Distress
-
VS 4c 19
85Lucky Star
-
E1 5b 1
86Yer Money or Yer Life
-
VS 4c 8
87Che GuevaraHVS 5a **8
88Stand and Deliver
-
E1 5b **146
89Ironside's Men
-
E2 5b **193
90The Spanish Inquisition
-
E1 5a *120
91Treason
-
HVS 5a *92
92All for One...
-
HVS 5a **360
93Bitter Battle Tears
-
HVS 5a ***781
94A King's Ransom
-
E3 6a 18
95Lost Cavaliers TearsHVS 5a **3
96The Laughing CavaliersHVS 5a ***1173
97No Musketeers
-
HVS 5a ***522
98No Musketeers (Direct Finish)E1 5c ***318
99My Normal FaceHVS 4c *2
100Roundhead's RevengeE1 5c 2
101...One for AllHS 4b **1049
102War is DeclaredE1 5b 5
103The New RepublicHVS 5a *23
104Armistice
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VS 4b 6
105No Surrender
-
VS 4c 4
106War of the Worlds
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VS 4c *426
107Peace in Our Time
-
HVS 5a 52
108The Phoney WarHS 4b *704
109Rebellion
-
E1 5b *138
110State of IndependenceVS 4b **722
111Seven Chinese Brothers
-
E1 5a  
112Oogmuts
-
E3 5b  
113Much Ado About Nothing
-
E1 5a *13
114Complex Variable
-
E1 5a 1
115All in a Day's Work
-
E2 5c 1
116The Land of NodE2 5c 3
117Wet Dreams
-
E1 4c 4
 Fallacy Buttress 
119FallacyHVS 5a *157
120Expectant ChimpE4 5c 3
121Lundy Calling
-
E4 5c ***112
122The English Opium EatersE6 6b 14
123Cool Heat
-
E2 5b *137
124Colour Dreams/Dream Topping Finish
-
E1 5a 1
125Protoplasm
-
E4 6b  
126The Numbers Game
-
E1 5c  
127Paroxysm
-
E2 5b  
128White Water
-
VS 4c  
129Walk Don't Run
-
VS 4c  
130A Is for Apple
-
HS 4a 1
131B Is for BagE3 5c  
 The Pinnacle Wall 
133The Pinnacle of Success
-
VS 4b 9
134Stuck on You
-
E1 5b *68
135A Stitch in Time
-
E1 5b *43
136The Hit
-
E3 6a 11
137Freak Brother Convention
-
E2 5b  
138Relics
-
E1 5b 5
139Second Wind
-
E2 5c *18
140Higher Flier
-
E1 5b  
141Femme Fatale
-
E1 5a 1
142Smart Arse
-
E2 5b *4
143Insurrection
-
E2 5c *1
144Symbiosis
-
E1 5a  
145Jungle Rock
-
E2 5b 1
146Doing the Bop
-
E3 5c  
 Bridle Buttress 
148Blood Brothers
-
E1 5a 7
149Heart of Stone
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E1 5a *43
150Nosey Bleeder
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E3 5c 8
151Run for HomeE2 5b **207
152Running on Empty
-
E3 5c *22
153Easy Rider
-
E1 5b **148
154Running Hot
-
E2 5c **80
155Loss Of InnocenceHVS 5a *112
156Fat Man in Ethiopia
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HVS 5a *57
157Turn to Stone
-
VS 4c 5
158Character Assassination
-
E1 5a 3
159Pink Ticket
-
HS 4b 4
 The White Towers 
161Cultural Revolution
-
HVS 5a 2
162The Little White TowerE2 5b  
163Blanc Wall
-
HVS 5a  
164Pretty Baby
-
E2 5b  
165The White Tower
-
E1 5b 1
 Hit and Run Buttress 
167Hit and Run
-
E2 5b **52
168Chappell of RestE5 6c  
169Touche Pussycat
-
E1 5c **45
170Colin's Apprentice
-
E4 6b *2
171Cat Be Nimble, Cat Be Quick
-
E2 5c *8
172The First Crusade
-
HS 4b 2
173Incredible Voyage
-
HVS 5a 3
174Poka Dot
-
E2 5c *4
175This Space Reserved
-
E1 5b 5
176Synapse Collapse
-
E4 6a *1
177The First Crusade
-
HS 4b 8
178Ramraider
-
E5 6b *1
179A Good Day For Gravity
-
E2 5b/c  
180Nobby's Piles
-
E2 5c  
181Mister Angry
-
E2 5c *1
182Blind Rage
-
E3 5c  
183Flatlander
-
E2 5c  
184Angry Young Men
-
HS 4b 3
185Santorini
-
VS 4b 1
186Iron FlyV5 *1

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