Climbs 174
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

Concretion © Oliver Buxton

Crag features

Unquarried limestone, generally sound, single pitch routes, many of outstanding quality, 10-30 metres. A couple of routes are over graded but some are hard for their grade - Touch The Fire (E2 5c) is no pushover. Majority of routes HVS-E2. Descent by abseil from trees. 60m rope necessary for some routes if single-roping. Beware loose rock at cliff top.

Approach notes

Park at Tintern Abbey, walk along the A466 (NW) for about 500 metres until you can cross the river on a foot bridge. Follow the level track until metal posts on the left indicate a steep path. Follow the path, taking the rightmost option at every fork to reach a forestry track after about 25 minutes walk. Turn R onto the forestry track, and carry on for about 500 metres where a sign "R4" is visible on the LHS. This access path leads to "Tigers Don't Cry" on Abbey Buttress at the L end of the crag.
For other buttresses, either (i) follow the crag path rightwards, or (ii) continue on the forestry track until a sign R3a indicates the access route to Great Central Cave Area. Beyond this R3,R2 & R1 lead to Pinnacle Wall, The White Towers & Hit and Run Buttress respectively. Note: bring head torches - you don't want to scramble down in the dark.

If you access from the Tintern Quarry parking please do not block any of the gates. These are very important to facilitated the access of emergency services in case of an emergency so it can save your own life.

Yesterday (11/07/2016) we had an accident at The White Towers. Trying to climb Cultural Revolution a block came off, a protection popped and my climbing partner hit the ground with a bit of slow down from the protection that hold. Extraction was tricky and involved paramedics, rope rescue and a couple of teams of firemen. He is fine now, just one vertebra broken and a nasty cut in his leg. In the same route just at the top of the initial corner we found a massive block that is about to come off. I am planning to come back, recover the gear left and clean up. In the meantime I would suggest to avoid the route and "The Little White Tower" area in general. Also note it is very important not to block the wooden gate if you park at Tintern Quarry parking as it facilitated the access of emergency services.
FernandoHidalgo - 11/Jul/16
A warning has been posted on the forums about a rockfall on the upper reaches of "Llamas in the Loft" (The Buttress with No Name) - it may be worth avoiding this (fairly poor) route for the moment Rick
Rick Sewards - 13/Apr/15
My friend fell of "Hit and Run" (E2) in the hit and run area (R1) today and hit the deck from twenty meters all gear was left on route if you are next up please contact felixottey@gmail.com to return it. The kit left institute may become part of a police investigation. 07879084688 is my contact number Felix.
Felix Ottey - 15/Jun/14
A really brilliant crag. Perfect for high volume days of climbing. I dont think i've actually climbed a bad route here. Most routes are very safe. Well deserving of it's reputation as a softly graded venue. Though there's a few stiff routes to keep you on your toes.
Kemics - 24/Jun/13
I'm not convinced about the star distribution at Shorn cliff, as nearly all the rock and routes are good. I don't think there is one route that is truly worth three stars but then i think there are many that are worth one and certainly a lot that are worth two.
Mark Davis - 11/Oct/09
Thread Security (VS 5a) - 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so and a large, wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 25/Mar/09
Climbed "Thread Security - The Buttress with No Name" today. 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so recently and a large wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 21/Mar/09
Did Laughing Cavaliers HVS on 19th May. Awesome route. There is now a huge fallen tree at the foot of the cliff, which looks like it has fallen from the very top of the route. The big flake at the top still feels very solid but the loss of the tree might have compromised its long term stability.
lmarenzi - 22/May/08
take lots of small wires and quickdraws
Dr Caterpillar - 04/Aug/07
Re: above comment -Wall cleaned up nicely - Did "Iron Curtain", definately a worthwhile VS, "Another brick in the wall" looks ok as well.
The Pylon King - 17/Mar/07
The section of the crag between Dirty Harry and Organ Grinder has recently been stripped of its ivy. The routes will now be a much more pleasant proposition! I've not climbed any of them myself yet, but they look worth the effort.
katonka - 19/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Abbey Butress 
2Petit Mort
-
E3 5c 4
3On Reflection
-
VS 4c  
4One Way Glass
-
E2 6a 1
5Gorillas in the Garden
-
HVS 5a 4
6Lazy L
-
VS 4c 40
7Edge Game
-
HVS 5a 4
8Wet Sunday
-
VS 4b 8
9Birth Canal + Wet Sunday
-
E3 5b 3
10Gargoyle
-
HS 4b 351
11Alta VistaVS 4c 243
12Party PieceE3 6a *32
13BeelineVS 4c 67
14Rumble in the Jungle
-
HVS 5a 56
15The BoneE1 5b **416
16Pooh SticksE1 5b **183
17A Bolt from the Blue
-
E3 5c 6
18Tigers Don't CryHVS 5a ***595
19Three Score Years and TenE6 6b 4
20AcousticVD *522
21Intravenous FeedingVS 4c 76
22Social Criticism
-
E1 5b *106
23Side EffectsE1 5b **142
24Hydraulic JumpVS 4c *334
25Brain Washed
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E4 6a  
26Self DefenceVS 4c 11
 The Butress with No Name 
28Rule the Roost
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VS 4b  
29The OrphanE1 5b 21
30Heavy Plant Crossing
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VS 4c *187
31Alone in a Crowd
-
HVS 5b *85
32Breech BirthE1 5b 35
33The Long Reach
-
HVS 5a *112
34Artificial Insemination
-
HVS 5a 38
35Indecisive Victory
-
HS 4b 192
36Llamas in the Loft
-
HVS 5a 14
37Thread SecurityVS 5a 25
38Probing in the Dark
-
HVS 5b 21
39Secret IdentityVS 4c *222
40Dirty Harry
-
HS 4b 137
41Aquatic Cyclist
-
VS 5a 22
42Gnarly old MenE5 6a 2
43Today you shall be with me in paradiseE4 6a *1
 The Berlin Wall 
45Name in the Book
-
E1 5b *58
46East to WestHS 4b 83
47The Iron Curtain
-
VS 4c *395
48Another Brick in the WallVS 4c 79
49Defection
-
HVS 4c 6
50Dictator
-
HVS 5a *109
51Traitor
-
E1 5a *92
52Temporary TruceVS 4c *326
53Organ GrinderHVS 5a **481
54Five Pints
-
E3 6a 15
55Kill the ToriesHVS 5a 1
 Fallen Block Buttress 
57Jug? What Jug?!
-
VS 4c 48
58One Less White NiggerVS 4c **489
59Emotional DyslexiaHVS 5a **432
60Emotional Dyslexia direct start
-
E1 5a **16
61Night RiderHS 4b *372
62Green Meanie
-
E3 5c *34
 Tiger Bay 
64Motion PicturesE1 5b ***459
65Touch the FireE2 5c **274
66Last CallVS 5a *177
67Cruisin' for a Bruisin'
-
E1 5b 3
68IntermissionHS 4b 93
69Wolf WhistleS *207
70Trouble Brewing
-
E3 6a 7
71Cry WolfVD 155
72Dazed and ConfusedS 5
73Three BananasHVS 4c 5
74Fuck the CoalitionE1 5c 3
75Pump it up... AgainE2 5b 5
76Renaissance
-
E1 5b **168
77Bursting the Renaissance Bubble
-
HVS 5a *16
78Bubble MemoryHVS 5a **141
79One Step Down
-
E1 5a 7
80Streaker
-
HVS 5a 1
81...Think of England Direct
-
E1 5b *12
 Great Central Cave Area 
83...Think of England
-
VS 4c 8
84Damsel in Distress
-
VS 4c 19
85Lucky Star
-
E1 5b 1
86Yer Money or Yer Life
-
VS 4c 7
87Che GuevaraHVS 5a **8
88Stand and Deliver
-
E1 5b **129
89Ironside's Men
-
E2 5b **186
90The Spanish Inquisition
-
E1 5a *117
91Treason
-
HVS 5a *88
92All for One...
-
HVS 5a **345
93Bitter Battle Tears
-
HVS 5a ***760
94A King's Ransom
-
E3 6a 18
95The Laughing CavaliersHVS 5a ***1125
96No Musketeers
-
HVS 5a ***503
97No Musketeers (Direct Finish)E1 5c ***304
98My Normal FaceHVS 4c *1
99Roundhead's RevengeE1 5c 2
100...One for AllHS 4b **1003
101War is DeclaredE1 5b 5
102The New RepublicHVS 5a *23
103Armistice
-
VS 4b 6
104No Surrender
-
VS 4c 4
105War of the Worlds
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VS 4c *411
106Peace in Our Time
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HVS 5a 50
107The Phoney WarHS 4b *677
108Rebellion
-
E1 5b *133
109State of IndependenceVS 4b **693
110Seven Chinese Brothers
-
E1 5a  
111Oogmuts
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E3 5b  
112Much Ado About Nothing
-
E1 5a *12
113Complex Variable
-
E1 5a 1
114All in a Day's Work
-
E2 5c 1
115The Land of NodE2 5c 3
116Wet Dreams
-
E1 4c 4
 Fallacy Buttress 
118FallacyHVS 5a *145
119Expectant ChimpE4 5c 3
120Lundy Calling
-
E4 5c ***96
121The English Opium EatersE6 6b 14
122Cool Heat
-
E2 5b *122
123Colour Dreams/Dream Topping Finish
-
E1 5a 1
124Protoplasm
-
E4 6b  
125The Numbers Game
-
E1 5c  
126Paroxysm
-
E2 5b  
127White Water
-
VS 4c  
128Walk Don't Run
-
VS 4c  
129A Is for Apple
-
HS 4a 1
130B Is for BagE3 5c  
 The Pinnacle Wall 
132The Pinnacle of Success
-
VS 4b 6
133Stuck on You
-
E1 5b *65
134A Stitch in Time
-
E1 5b *40
135The Hit
-
E3 6a 11
136Freak Brother Convention
-
E2 5b  
137Relics
-
E1 5b 5
138Second Wind
-
E2 5c *18
139Higher Flier
-
E1 5b  
140Femme Fatale
-
E1 5a 1
141Smart Arse
-
E2 5b *4
142Insurrection
-
E2 5c *1
143Symbiosis
-
E1 5a  
144Jungle Rock
-
E2 5b 1
145Doing the Bop
-
E3 5c  
 Bridle Buttress 
147Blood Brothers
-
E1 5a 7
148Heart of Stone
-
E1 5a *43
149Nosey Bleeder
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E3 5c 8
150Run for HomeE2 5b **199
151Running on Empty
-
E3 5c *21
152Easy Rider
-
E1 5b **143
153Running Hot
-
E2 5c **76
154Loss Of InnocenceHVS 5a *104
155Fat Man in Ethiopia
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HVS 5a *48
156Turn to Stone
-
VS 4c 4
157Character Assassination
-
E1 5a 2
158Pink Ticket
-
HS 4b 2
 The White Towers 
160Cultural Revolution
-
HVS 5a 2
161The Little White TowerE2 5b  
162Blanc Wall
-
HVS 5a  
163Pretty Baby
-
E2 5b  
164The White Tower
-
E1 5b 1
 Hit and Run Buttress 
166Hit and Run
-
E2 5b **49
167Chappell of RestE5 6c  
168Touche Pussycat
-
E1 5c **42
169Colin's Apprentice
-
E4 6b *2
170Cat Be Nimble, Cat Be Quick
-
E2 5c *7
171The First Crusade
-
HS 4b 2
172Incredible Voyage
-
HVS 5a 3
173Poka Dot
-
E2 5c *3
174This Space Reserved
-
E1 5b 4
175Synapse Collapse
-
E4 6a *1
176The First Crusade
-
HS 4b 7
177Ramraider
-
E5 6b *1
178A Good Day For Gravity
-
E2 5b/c  
179Nobby's Piles
-
E2 5c  
180Mister Angry
-
E2 5c *1
181Blind Rage
-
E3 5c  
182Flatlander
-
E2 5c  
183Angry Young Men
-
HS 4b 3
184Santorini
-
VS 4b 1
185Iron FlyV5 *1

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