Shorn Cliff

Climbs 174 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Unquarried limestone, generally sound, single pitch routes, many of outstanding quality, 10-30 metres. A couple of routes are over graded but some are hard for their grade - Touch The Fire (E2 5c) is no pushover. Majority of routes HVS-E2. Descent by abseil from trees. 60m rope necessary for some routes if single-roping. Beware loose rock at cliff top.

Approach notes
Park at Tintern Abbey, walk along the A466 (NW) for about 500 metres until you can cross the river on a foot bridge. Follow the level track until metal posts on the left indicate a steep path. Follow the path, taking the rightmost option at every fork to reach a forestry track after about 25 minutes walk. Turn R onto the forestry track, and carry on for about 500 metres where a sign "R4" is visible on the LHS. This access path leads to "Tigers Don't Cry" on Abbey Buttress at the L end of the crag.

For other buttresses, either (i) follow the crag path rightwards, or (ii) continue on the forestry track until a sign R3a indicates the access route to Great Central Cave Area. Beyond this R3,R2 & R1 lead to Pinnacle Wall, The White Towers & Hit and Run Buttress respectively. Note: bring head torches - you don't want to scramble down in the dark.

Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Petit MortE3 5c 4
2On ReflectionVS 4c  
3One Way GlassE2 6a 1
4Gorillas in the GardenHVS 5a 4
5Lazy LVS 4c 36
6Edge GameHVS 5a 4
7Wet SundayVS 4b 8
8Birth Canal + Wet SundayE3 5b 3
9GargoyleHS 4b 311
10Alta VistaVS 4c 214
11Party PieceE3 6a *27
12BeelineVS 4c 63
13Rumble in the JungleHVS 5a 51
14The BoneE1 5b **354
15Pooh SticksE1 5b **165
16A Bolt from the BlueE3 5c 6
17Tigers Don't CryHVS 5a ***490
18Three Score Years and TenE6 6b 4
19AcousticVD *463
20Intravenous FeedingVS 4c 66
21Social CriticismE1 5b *97
22Side EffectsE1 5b **124
23Hydraulic JumpVS 4c *289
24Brain WashedE4 6a  
25Self DefenceVS 4c 9
26Rule the RoostVS 4b  
27The OrphanE1 5b 19
28Heavy Plant CrossingVS 4c *152
29Alone in a CrowdHVS 5b *74
30Breech BirthE1 5b 36
31The Long ReachHVS 5a *98
32Artificial InseminationHVS 5a 34
33Indecisive VictoryHS 4b 180
34Llamas in the LoftHVS 5a 13
35Thread SecurityVS 5a 24
36Probing in the DarkHVS 5b 19
37Secret IdentityVS 4c *197
38Dirty HarryHS 4b 123
39Aquatic CyclistVS 5a 20
40Name in the BookE1 5b *55
41East to WestHS 4b 78
42The Iron CurtainVS 4c *335
43Another Brick in the WallVS 4c 73
44DefectionHVS 4c 6
45DictatorHVS 5a *95
46TraitorE1 5a *83
47Temporary TruceVS 4c *276
48Organ GrinderHVS 5a **416
49Five PintsE3 6a 15
50Kill the ToriesHVS 5a 1
51Jug? What Jug?!VS 4c 45
52One Less White NiggerVS 4c **410
53Emotional DyslexiaHVS 5a **359
54Emotional Dyslexia direct startE1 5a **13
55Night RiderHS 4b *327
56Green MeanieE3 5c *29
57Motion PicturesE1 5b ***381
58Touch the FireE2 5c **233
59Last CallVS 5a *148
60Cruisin' for a Bruisin'E1 5b 3
61IntermissionHS 4b 74
62Wolf WhistleS *181
63Trouble BrewingE3 6a 7
64Cry WolfVD 140
65Pump it up... AgainE2 5b 5
66RenaissanceE1 5b **154
67Bursting the Renaissance BubbleHVS 5a *15
68Bubble MemoryHVS 5a **114
69One Step DownE1 5a 7
70StreakerHVS 5a 1
71...Think of England DirectE1 5b *12
72...Think of EnglandVS 4c 8
73Damsel in DistressVS 4c 19
74Lucky StarE1 5b 1
75Yer Money or Yer LifeVS 4c 7
76Che GuevaraHVS 5a **8
77Stand and DeliverE1 5b **107
78Ironside's MenE2 5b **156
79The Spanish InquisitionE1 5a *108
80TreasonHVS 5a *80
81All for One...HVS 5a **285
82Bitter Battle TearsHVS 5a ***630
83A King's RansomE3 6a 16
84The Laughing CavaliersHVS 5a ***930
85No MusketeersHVS 5a ***423
86No Musketeers (Direct Finish)E1 5c ***254
87...One for AllHS 4b **849
88War is DeclaredE1 5b 5
89The New RepublicHVS 5a *23
90ArmisticeVS 4b 4
91No SurrenderVS 4c 4
92War of the WorldsVS 4c *345
93Peace in Our TimeHVS 5a 44
94The Phoney WarHS 4b *578
95RebellionE1 5b *110
96State of IndependenceVS 4b **564
97Seven Chinese BrothersE1 5a  
98OogmutsE3 5b  
99Much Ado About NothingE1 5a *12
100Complex VariableE1 5a 1
101All in a Day's WorkE2 5c 1
102The Land of NodE2 5c 2
103Wet DreamsE1 4c 1
104FallacyHVS 5a *123
105Expectant ChimpE4 5c 3
106Lundy CallingE4 5c ***66
107The English Opium EatersE6 6b 14
108Cool HeatE2 5b *111
109Colour Dreams/Dream Topping FinishE1 5a  
110ProtoplasmE4 6b  
111The Numbers GameE1 5c  
112ParoxysmE2 5b  
113White WaterVS 4c  
114Walk Don't RunVS 4c  
115A Is for AppleHS 4a 1
116B Is for BagE3 5c  
117The Pinnacle of SuccessVS 4b 5
118Stuck on YouE1 5b *55
119A Stitch in TimeE1 5b *33
120The HitE3 6a 10
121Freak Brother ConventionE2 5b  
122RelicsE1 5b 4
123Second WindE2 5c *17
124Higher FlierE1 5b  
125Femme FataleE1 5a 2
126Smart ArseE2 5b *3
127InsurrectionE2 5c *1
128SymbiosisE1 5a  
129Jungle RockE2 5b 1
130Doing the BopE3 5c  
131Blood BrothersE1 5a 5
132Heart of StoneE1 5a *40
133Nosey BleederE3 5c 8
134Run for HomeE2 5b **161
135Running on EmptyE3 5c *18
136Easy RiderE1 5b **131
137Running HotE2 5c **62
138Loss Of InnocenceHVS 5a *99
139Fat Man in EthiopiaHVS 5a *45
140Turn to StoneVS 4c 4
141Character AssassinationE1 5a 2
142Pink TicketHS 4b 2
143Cultural RevolutionHVS 5a 1
144The Little White TowerE2 5b  
145Blanc WallHVS 5a  
146Pretty BabyE2 5b  
147The White TowerE1 5b 1
148Hit and RunE2 5b **45
149Chappell of RestE5 6c  
150Touche PussycatE1 5c **33
151Colin's ApprenticeE4 6b *2
152Cat Be Nimble, Cat Be QuickE2 5c *7
153The First CrusadeHS 4b 2
154Incredible VoyageHVS 5a 3
155Poka DotE2 5c *3
156This Space ReservedE1 5b 4
157Synapse CollapseE4 6a *1
158The First CrusadeHS 4b 7
159RamraiderE5 6b * 
160A Good Day For GravityE2 5b/c  
161Nobby's PilesE2 5c  
162Mister AngryE2 5c *1
163Blind RageE3 5c  
164FlatlanderE2 5c  
165Angry Young MenHS 4b 3
166SantoriniVS 4b 1
167Dazed and ConfusedS 4
168Gnarly old MenE5 6a 2
169Today you shall be with me in paradiseE4 6a *1
170My Normal FaceHVS 4c *1
171Fuck the CoalitionE1 5c 3
172Three BananasHVS 4c 5
173Roundhead's RevengeE1 5c 2
174Iron FlyV5 6b *1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A warning has been posted on the forums about a rockfall on the upper reaches of "Llamas in the Loft" (The Buttress with No Name) - it may be worth avoiding this (fairly poor) route for the moment Rick
Rick Sewards - 13/Apr/15
My friend fell of "Hit and Run" (E2) in the hit and run area (R1) today and hit the deck from twenty meters all gear was left on route if you are next up please contact to return it. The kit left institute may become part of a police investigation. 07879084688 is my contact number Felix.
Felix Ottey - 15/Jun/14
A really brilliant crag. Perfect for high volume days of climbing. I dont think i've actually climbed a bad route here. Most routes are very safe. Well deserving of it's reputation as a softly graded venue. Though there's a few stiff routes to keep you on your toes.
Kemics - 24/Jun/13
I'm not convinced about the star distribution at Shorn cliff, as nearly all the rock and routes are good. I don't think there is one route that is truly worth three stars but then i think there are many that are worth one and certainly a lot that are worth two.
Urgles - 11/Oct/09
Thread Security (VS 5a) - 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so and a large, wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 25/Mar/09
Climbed "Thread Security - The Buttress with No Name" today. 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so recently and a large wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 21/Mar/09
Did Laughing Cavaliers HVS on 19th May. Awesome route. There is now a huge fallen tree at the foot of the cliff, which looks like it has fallen from the very top of the route. The big flake at the top still feels very solid but the loss of the tree might have compromised its long term stability.
lmarenzi - 22/May/08
take lots of small wires and quickdraws
Dr Caterpillar - 04/Aug/07
Re: above comment -Wall cleaned up nicely - Did "Iron Curtain", definately a worthwhile VS, "Another brick in the wall" looks ok as well.
The Pylon King - 17/Mar/07
The section of the crag between Dirty Harry and Organ Grinder has recently been stripped of its ivy. The routes will now be a much more pleasant proposition! I've not climbed any of them myself yet, but they look worth the effort.
katonka - 19/Oct/06