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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref ST 543992 (OS Landranger #162)

Shorn Cliff

Gloucestershire, ENGLAND

Climbs 173 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Unquarried limestone, generally sound, single pitch routes, many of outstanding quality, 10-30 metres. A couple of routes are over graded but some are hard for their grade - Touch The Fire (E2 5c) is no pushover. Majority of routes HVS-E2. Descent by abseil from trees. 60m rope necessary for some routes if single-roping. Beware loose rock at cliff top.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

1	Petit Mort	E3 5c	4
2	On Reflection	VS 4c
3	One Way Glass	E2 6a	1
4	Gorillas in the Garden	HVS 5a	1
5	Lazy L	VS 4c	26
6	Edge Game	HVS 5a	1
7	Wet Sunday	VS 4b	8
8	Birth Canal + Wet Sunday	E3 5b	3
9	Gargoyle	HS 4b	232
10	Alta Vista	VS 4c	148
11	Party Piece	E3 6a *	26
12	Beeline	VS 4c	45
13	Rumble in the Jungle	HVS 5a	36
14	The Bone	E1 5b **	256
15	Pooh Sticks	E1 5b **	126
16	A Bolt from the Blue	E3 5c	6
17	Tigers Don't Cry	HVS 5a ***	356
18	Three Score Years and Ten	E6 6b	4
19	Acoustic	VD *	324
20	Intravenous Feeding	VS 4c	56
21	Social Criticism	E1 5b *	75
22	Side Effects	E1 5b **	85
23	Hydraulic Jump	VS 4c *	189
24	Brain Washed	E4 6a
25	Self Defence	VS 4c	7
26	Rule the Roost	VS 4b
27	The Orphan	E1 5b	14
28	Heavy Plant Crossing	VS 4c *	90
29	Alone in a Crowd	HVS 5b *	48
30	Breech Birth	E1 5b	26
31	The Long Reach	HVS 5a *	65
32	Artificial Insemination	HVS 5a	24
33	Indecisive Victory	HS 4b	130
34	Llamas in the Loft	HVS 5a	8
35	Thread Security	VS 5a	14
36	Probing in the Dark	HVS 5b	12
37	Secret Identity	VS 4c *	133
38	Dirty Harry	HS 4b	94
39	Aquatic Cyclist	VS 5a	15
40	Name in the Book	E1 5b *	40
41	East to West	HS 4b	62
42	The Iron Curtain	VS 4c *	230
43	Another Brick in the Wall	VS 4c	69
44	Defection	HVS 4c	6
45	Dictator	HVS 5a *	62
46	Traitor	E1 5a *	53
47	Temporary Truce	VS 4c *	172
48	Organ Grinder	HVS 5a **	275
49	Five Pints	E3 6a	15
50	Kill the Tories	HVS 5a	1
51	Jug? What Jug?!	VS 4c	32
52	One Less White Nigger	VS 4c **	272
53	Emotional Dyslexia	HVS 5a **	253
54	Emotional Dyslexia direct start	E1 5a **	9
55	Night Rider	HS 4b *	211
56	Green Meanie	E3 5c *	24
57	Motion Pictures	E1 5b ***	266
58	Touch the Fire	E2 5c **	174
59	Last Call	VS 5a *	110
60	Cruisin' for a Bruisin'	E1 5b	3
61	Intermission	HS 4b	52
62	Wolf Whistle	S *	123
63	Trouble Brewing	E3 6a	6
64	Cry Wolf	VD	96
65	Pump it up... Again	E2 5b	3
66	Renaissance	E1 5b **	112
67	Bursting the Renaissance Bubble	HVS 5a *	12
68	Bubble Memory	HVS 5a **	59
69	One Step Down	E1 5a	3
70	Streaker	HVS 5a
71	...Think of England Direct	E1 5b *	12
72	...Think of England	VS 4c	4
73	Damsel in Distress	VS 4c	11
74	Lucky Star	E1 5b	1
75	Yer Money or Yer Life	VS 4c	6
76	Che Guevara	HVS 5a **	6
77	Stand and Deliver	E1 5b **	68
78	Ironside's Men	E2 5b **	118
79	The Spanish Inquisition	E1 5a *	74
80	Treason	HVS 5a *	55
81	All for One...	HVS 5a **	209
82	Bitter Battle Tears	HVS 5a ***	463
83	A King's Ransom	E3 6a	13
84	The Laughing Cavaliers	HVS 5a ***	658
85	No Musketeers	HVS 5a ***	297
86	No Musketeers (Direct Finish)	E1 5c ***	182
87	...One for All	HS 4b **	583

	Climb name	Grade	x

88	War is Declared	E1 5b	4
89	The New Republic	HVS 5a *	21
90	Armistice	VS 4b	1
91	No Surrender	VS 4c	2
92	War of the Worlds	VS 4c *	263
93	Peace in Our Time	HVS 5a	30
94	The Phoney War	HS 4b *	397
95	Rebellion	E1 5b *	65
96	State of Independence	VS 4b **	360
97	Seven Chinese Brothers	E1 5a
98	Oogmuts	E3 5b
99	Much Ado About Nothing	E1 5a *	8
100	Complex Variable	E1 5a	1
101	All in a Day's Work	E2 5c	1
102	The Land of Nod	E2 5c	2
103	Wet Dreams	E1 4c	1
104	Fallacy	HVS 5a *	87
105	Expectant Chimp	E4 5c	3
106	Lundy Calling	E4 5c ***	47
107	The English Opium Eaters	E6 6b	12
108	Cool Heat	E2 5b *	87
109	Colour Dreams/Dream Topping Finish	E1 5a
110	Protoplasm	E4 6b
111	The Numbers Game	E1 5c
112	Paroxysm	E2 5b
113	White Water	VS 4c
114	Walk Don't Run	VS 4c
115	A Is for Apple	HS 4a	1
116	B Is for Bag	E3 5c
117	The Pinnacle of Success	VS 4b	3
118	Stuck on You	E1 5b *	45
119	A Stitch in Time	E1 5b *	18
120	The Hit	E3 6a	9
121	Freak Brother Convention	E2 5b
122	Relics	E1 5b	4
123	Second Wind	E2 5c *	15
124	Higher Flier	E1 5b
125	Femme Fatale	E1 5a	2
126	Smart Arse	E2 5b *	3
127	Insurrection	E2 5c *	1
128	Symbiosis	E1 5a
129	Jungle Rock	E2 5b	1
130	Doing the Bop	E3 5c
131	Blood Brothers	E1 5a	5
132	Heart of Stone	E1 5a *	25
133	Nosey Bleeder	E3 5c	8
134	Run for Home	E2 5b **	103
135	Running on Empty	E3 5c *	15
136	Easy Rider	E1 5b **	88
137	Running Hot	E2 5c **	39
138	Loss Of Innocence	HVS 5a *	65
139	Fat Man in Ethiopia	HVS 5a *	35
140	Turn to Stone	VS 4c	4
141	Character Assassination	E1 5a	1
142	Pink Ticket	HS 4b	2
143	Cultural Revolution	HVS 5a
144	The Little White Tower	E2 5b
145	Blanc Wall	HVS 5a
146	Pretty Baby	E2 5b
147	The White Tower	E1 5b	1
148	Hit and Run	E2 5b **	32
149	Chappell of Rest	E5 6c
150	Touche Pussycat	E1 5c **	22
151	Colin's Apprentice	E4 6b *	2
152	Cat Be Nimble, Cat Be Quick	E2 5c *	5
153	The First Crusade	HS 4b	2
154	Incredible Voyage	HVS 5a	1
155	Poka Dot	E2 5c *	2
156	This Space Reserved	E1 5b	4
157	Synapse Collapse	E4 6a *	1
158	The First Crusade	HS 4b	6
159	Ramraider	E5 6b *
160	A Good Day For Gravity	E2 5b/c
161	Nobby's Piles	E2 5c
162	Mister Angry	E2 5c *	1
163	Blind Rage	E3 5c
164	Flatlander	E2 5c
165	Angry Young Men	HS 4b	3
166	Santorini	VS 4b	1
167	Dazed and Confused	S	1
168	Gnarly old Men	E5 6a	2
169	Today you shall be with me in paradise	E4 6a *	1
170	My Normal Face	HVS 4c *	1
171	Fuck the Coalition	E1 5c	3
172	Three Bananas	HVS 4c	3
173	Roundhead's Revenge	E1 5c

Ellis Brigham Mountain Sports
Bristol, AVON
www.ellis-brigham.com

Advertise here

Access notes
Park at Tintern Abbey, walk along the A466 (NW) for about 500 metres until you can cross the river on a foot bridge. Follow the level track until metal posts on the left indicate a steep path. Follow the path, taking the rightmost option at every fork to reach a forestry track after about 25 minutes walk. Turn R onto the forestry track, and carry on for about 500 metres where a sign "R4" is visible on the LHS. This access path leads to "Tigers Don't Cry" on Abbey Buttress at the L end of the crag.

For other buttresses, either (i) follow the crag path rightwards, or (ii) continue on the forestry track until a sign R3a indicates the access route to Great Central Cave Area. Beyond this R3,R2 & R1 lead to Pinnacle Wall, The White Towers & Hit and Run Buttress respectively. Note: bring head torches - you don't want to scramble down in the dark.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Wil Treasure

USER FEEDBACK

I'm not convinced about the star distribution at Shorn cliff, as nearly all the rock and routes are good. I don't think there is one route that is truly worth three stars but then i think there are many that are worth one and certainly a lot that are worth two.
The Pylon King

- 11/Oct/09

Thread Security (VS 5a) - 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so and a large, wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 25/Mar/09

Climbed "Thread Security - The Buttress with No Name" today. 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so recently and a large wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 21/Mar/09

Did Laughing Cavaliers HVS on 19th May. Awesome route. There is now a huge fallen tree at the foot of the cliff, which looks like it has fallen from the very top of the route. The big flake at the top still feels very solid but the loss of the tree might have compromised its long term stability.
lmarenzi - 22/May/08

take lots of small wires and quickdraws
Dr Caterpillar - 04/Aug/07

Re: above comment -Wall cleaned up nicely - Did "Iron Curtain", definately a worthwhile VS, "Another brick in the wall" looks ok as well.
The Pylon King - 17/Mar/07

The section of the crag between Dirty Harry and Organ Grinder has recently been stripped of its ivy. The routes will now be a much more pleasant proposition! I've not climbed any of them myself yet, but they look worth the effort.
katonka - 19/Oct/06

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