Shorn Cliff

Climbs 174 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Unquarried limestone, generally sound, single pitch routes, many of outstanding quality, 10-30 metres. A couple of routes are over graded but some are hard for their grade - Touch The Fire (E2 5c) is no pushover. Majority of routes HVS-E2. Descent by abseil from trees. 60m rope necessary for some routes if single-roping. Beware loose rock at cliff top.

Access notes
Park at Tintern Abbey, walk along the A466 (NW) for about 500 metres until you can cross the river on a foot bridge. Follow the level track until metal posts on the left indicate a steep path. Follow the path, taking the rightmost option at every fork to reach a forestry track after about 25 minutes walk. Turn R onto the forestry track, and carry on for about 500 metres where a sign "R4" is visible on the LHS. This access path leads to "Tigers Don't Cry" on Abbey Buttress at the L end of the crag.

For other buttresses, either (i) follow the crag path rightwards, or (ii) continue on the forestry track until a sign R3a indicates the access route to Great Central Cave Area. Beyond this R3,R2 & R1 lead to Pinnacle Wall, The White Towers & Hit and Run Buttress respectively. Note: bring head torches - you don't want to scramble down in the dark.

Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Petit MortE3 5c
2On ReflectionVS 4c
3One Way GlassE2 6a
4Gorillas in the GardenHVS 5a
5Lazy LVS 4c
6Edge GameHVS 5a
7Wet SundayVS 4b
8Birth Canal + Wet SundayE3 5b
9GargoyleHS 4b
10Alta VistaVS 4c
11Party PieceE3 6a *
12BeelineVS 4c
13Rumble in the JungleHVS 5a
14The BoneE1 5b **
15Pooh SticksE1 5b **
16A Bolt from the BlueE3 5c
17Tigers Don't CryHVS 5a ***
18Three Score Years and TenE6 6b
19AcousticVD *
20Intravenous FeedingVS 4c
21Social CriticismE1 5b *
22Side EffectsE1 5b **
23Hydraulic JumpVS 4c *
24Brain WashedE4 6a
25Self DefenceVS 4c
26Rule the RoostVS 4b
27The OrphanE1 5b
28Heavy Plant CrossingVS 4c *
29Alone in a CrowdHVS 5b *
30Breech BirthE1 5b
31The Long ReachHVS 5a *
32Artificial InseminationHVS 5a
33Indecisive VictoryHS 4b
34Llamas in the LoftHVS 5a
35Thread SecurityVS 5a
36Probing in the DarkHVS 5b
37Secret IdentityVS 4c *
38Dirty HarryHS 4b
39Aquatic CyclistVS 5a
40Name in the BookE1 5b *
41East to WestHS 4b
42The Iron CurtainVS 4c *
43Another Brick in the WallVS 4c
44DefectionHVS 4c
45DictatorHVS 5a *
46TraitorE1 5a *
47Temporary TruceVS 4c *
48Organ GrinderHVS 5a **
49Five PintsE3 6a
50Kill the ToriesHVS 5a
51Jug? What Jug?!VS 4c
52One Less White NiggerVS 4c **
53Emotional DyslexiaHVS 5a **
54Emotional Dyslexia direct startE1 5a **
55Night RiderHS 4b *
56Green MeanieE3 5c *
57Motion PicturesE1 5b ***
58Touch the FireE2 5c **
59Last CallVS 5a *
60Cruisin' for a Bruisin'E1 5b
61IntermissionHS 4b
62Wolf WhistleS *
63Trouble BrewingE3 6a
64Cry WolfVD
65Pump it up... AgainE2 5b
66RenaissanceE1 5b **
67Bursting the Renaissance BubbleHVS 5a *
68Bubble MemoryHVS 5a **
69One Step DownE1 5a
70StreakerHVS 5a
71...Think of England DirectE1 5b *
72...Think of EnglandVS 4c
73Damsel in DistressVS 4c
74Lucky StarE1 5b
75Yer Money or Yer LifeVS 4c
76Che GuevaraHVS 5a **
77Stand and DeliverE1 5b **
78Ironside's MenE2 5b **
79The Spanish InquisitionE1 5a *
80TreasonHVS 5a *
81All for One...HVS 5a **
82Bitter Battle TearsHVS 5a ***
83A King's RansomE3 6a
84The Laughing CavaliersHVS 5a ***
85No MusketeersHVS 5a ***
86No Musketeers (Direct Finish)E1 5c ***
87...One for AllHS 4b **
88War is DeclaredE1 5b
89The New RepublicHVS 5a *
90ArmisticeVS 4b
91No SurrenderVS 4c
92War of the WorldsVS 4c *
93Peace in Our TimeHVS 5a
94The Phoney WarHS 4b *
95RebellionE1 5b *
96State of IndependenceVS 4b **
97Seven Chinese BrothersE1 5a
98OogmutsE3 5b
99Much Ado About NothingE1 5a *
100Complex VariableE1 5a
101All in a Day's WorkE2 5c
102The Land of NodE2 5c
103Wet DreamsE1 4c
104FallacyHVS 5a *
105Expectant ChimpE4 5c
106Lundy CallingE4 5c ***
107The English Opium EatersE6 6b
108Cool HeatE2 5b *
109Colour Dreams/Dream Topping FinishE1 5a
110ProtoplasmE4 6b
111The Numbers GameE1 5c
112ParoxysmE2 5b
113White WaterVS 4c
114Walk Don't RunVS 4c
115A Is for AppleHS 4a
116B Is for BagE3 5c
117The Pinnacle of SuccessVS 4b
118Stuck on YouE1 5b *
119A Stitch in TimeE1 5b *
120The HitE3 6a
121Freak Brother ConventionE2 5b
122RelicsE1 5b
123Second WindE2 5c *
124Higher FlierE1 5b
125Femme FataleE1 5a
126Smart ArseE2 5b *
127InsurrectionE2 5c *
128SymbiosisE1 5a
129Jungle RockE2 5b
130Doing the BopE3 5c
131Blood BrothersE1 5a
132Heart of StoneE1 5a *
133Nosey BleederE3 5c
134Run for HomeE2 5b **
135Running on EmptyE3 5c *
136Easy RiderE1 5b **
137Running HotE2 5c **
138Loss Of InnocenceHVS 5a *
139Fat Man in EthiopiaHVS 5a *
140Turn to StoneVS 4c
141Character AssassinationE1 5a
142Pink TicketHS 4b
143Cultural RevolutionHVS 5a
144The Little White TowerE2 5b
145Blanc WallHVS 5a
146Pretty BabyE2 5b
147The White TowerE1 5b
148Hit and RunE2 5b **
149Chappell of RestE5 6c
150Touche PussycatE1 5c **
151Colin's ApprenticeE4 6b *
152Cat Be Nimble, Cat Be QuickE2 5c *
153The First CrusadeHS 4b
154Incredible VoyageHVS 5a
155Poka DotE2 5c *
156This Space ReservedE1 5b
157Synapse CollapseE4 6a *
158The First CrusadeHS 4b
159RamraiderE5 6b *
160A Good Day For GravityE2 5b/c
161Nobby's PilesE2 5c
162Mister AngryE2 5c *
163Blind RageE3 5c
164FlatlanderE2 5c
165Angry Young MenHS 4b
166SantoriniVS 4b
167Dazed and ConfusedS
168Gnarly old MenE5 6a
169Today you shall be with me in paradiseE4 6a *
170My Normal FaceHVS 4c *
171Fuck the CoalitionE1 5c
172Three BananasHVS 4c
173Roundhead's RevengeE1 5c
174Iron Fly *V5 6b *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer drysori

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
My friend fell of "Hit and Run" (E2) in the hit and run area (R1) today and hit the deck from twenty meters all gear was left on route if you are next up please contact to return it. The kit left institute may become part of a police investigation. 07879084688 is my contact number Felix.
Felix Ottey - 15/Jun/14
A really brilliant crag. Perfect for high volume days of climbing. I dont think i've actually climbed a bad route here. Most routes are very safe. Well deserving of it's reputation as a softly graded venue. Though there's a few stiff routes to keep you on your toes.
Kemics - 24/Jun/13
I'm not convinced about the star distribution at Shorn cliff, as nearly all the rock and routes are good. I don't think there is one route that is truly worth three stars but then i think there are many that are worth one and certainly a lot that are worth two.
The Pylon King - 11/Oct/09
Thread Security (VS 5a) - 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so and a large, wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 25/Mar/09
Climbed "Thread Security - The Buttress with No Name" today. 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so recently and a large wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 21/Mar/09
Did Laughing Cavaliers HVS on 19th May. Awesome route. There is now a huge fallen tree at the foot of the cliff, which looks like it has fallen from the very top of the route. The big flake at the top still feels very solid but the loss of the tree might have compromised its long term stability.
lmarenzi - 22/May/08
take lots of small wires and quickdraws
Dr Caterpillar - 04/Aug/07
Re: above comment -Wall cleaned up nicely - Did "Iron Curtain", definately a worthwhile VS, "Another brick in the wall" looks ok as well.
The Pylon King - 17/Mar/07
The section of the crag between Dirty Harry and Organ Grinder has recently been stripped of its ivy. The routes will now be a much more pleasant proposition! I've not climbed any of them myself yet, but they look worth the effort.
katonka - 19/Oct/06
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 23/Oct/2007

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