UKC

Climbs 103
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 437m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Fergus launching across the 'flying hand traverse' on Thunderbird © The Big Sender

Crag features

A great sandstone crag on the upper tiers of Seana Mheallan, giving climbs on a west and north-west facing aspect. 

The main area is Glac Dhorch (NW aspect), with great rock and great climbs. The crag may need some time in the sun to dry after considerable rainfall.

The West sector provides easier and shorter routes catching the sun earlier than its big brother, making it a good alternative to start the day while waiting for better conditions on Glac Dhorch.

Approach notes

Parking is very limited so car sharing is best. You can choose to reverse perpendicular to the road on the layby below the crag (57.543482, -5.476083).

Main Sector (Glach Dhorch): The uppermost of three tiers seen from the road. Cross the river by stepping stones and follow the path uphill. Turn left into the crag. 

West Sector: Approach as Main Sector, but branch off right, eventually descending, and find the south-west facing crag.

 

The approach via the gully to Glac Dhorc is hideous, the 'path' doesn't help really. Worth avoiding in favour of a route up/down the ridge as mentioned by Katherine. Pick a zig zag line through the outcrops.
DougSt - 10/Apr/15
Great crag once you get there! The approach via the gully as described in Gary Latter's book was awful! Climbing at Western Sector only, we found an alternative descent route through the broken ground at the north-west corner. This was much better, and I'd use that as an approach route in future, either parking in the trees below Liathach or near the bridge on the main road towards Annat.
Katherine Ross - 15/Jun/14
"Dolphin Friendly", "Bleached Whale", "Wriggle" and "Archangel" all under bedrock buttress as opposed to SMW. "Kelvinator" next to "Sandstorm" under main crag
Captain Solo - 10/Jun/13
"Heather said sunshine" and "Skye and Kyle against Trugs" under seana mheallan west as opposed to bedrock buttress.
Captain Solo - 10/Jun/13
The approach has improved greatly as a path has now formed - see photo.
Captain Solo - 07/May/13
An approach similar to that of Mordor, greeted by paridise. (could've just taken the giant eagles to start with)
felixyoung - 20/Oct/11
Have to agree with both comments. A horrible approach made worthwhile by the great climbing. I'll definately be returning.
Sutty22 - 18/Apr/11
Absolutely bloody ridiculously good outcrop climbing. Worth the grim approach.
Fiend - 11/Nov/08
Superb sandstone in a magnificent setting. The approach can best be described as a 40 degree swamp but the effort will be amply rewarded.
The Purple Pimpernel - 17/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

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