Piz Ciavazes Dolomites, ITALY
Climbs 100 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 2291m a.s.l – Faces SW
The south side of Piz Ciavazes is one of the most impressive and accessible faces in the Dolomites. Though the full length of the face can be climbed, most routes end at the mid-height terrace of the Gamsband (Chamois Terrace) because of poor quality rock on the upper half. This gives rise to a number of excellent moderate length multi-pitch routes. The Big Micheluzzi, Little Micheluzzi and Schubert/Route of Friendship are all Dolomite classics, though many other less famous routes on the face are just as good. The initial few pitches of the routes do have a slightly vegetated feel but this improves with height. There is also some single pitch sport available though in truth it doesn't compare with the quality of the longer routes here, or with the sport routes found at the nearby Città di Sassi (page 210). The aspect of the crag means that the face dries quickly with the exception of the Buhl Direct. This also means the face is best avoided on the hottest days of the year in midsummer.
Easy access from the Sella Pass.
The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata (2014), Classic Dolomite Climbs (2008), Dolomites West and East (2005), Arrampicate sportive e vie moderne in Val di Fassa, Fiemme e Val Gardena (2004), Mid Grade Trad Rock: Western Dolomites Vol 1,
Out of print: Classic Dolomite Climbs (1988)
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