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These details were last updated on 25/Jul/2014

Piz Ciavazes

Dolomites, ITALY

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 2291m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
The south side of Piz Ciavazes is one of the most impressive and accessible faces in the Dolomites. Though the full length of the face can be climbed, most routes end at the mid-height terrace of the Gamsband (Chamois Terrace) because of poor quality rock on the upper half. This gives rise to a number of excellent moderate length multi-pitch routes. The Big Micheluzzi, Little Micheluzzi and Schubert/Route of Friendship are all Dolomite classics, though many other less famous routes on the face are just as good. The initial few pitches of the routes do have a slightly vegetated feel but this improves with height. There is also some single pitch sport available though in truth it doesn't compare with the quality of the longer routes here, or with the sport routes found at the nearby Città di Sassi (page 210). The aspect of the crag means that the face dries quickly with the exception of the Buhl Direct. This also means the face is best avoided on the hottest days of the year in midsummer.

Access notes
Easy access from the Sella Pass.

Guidebooks
The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata (2014), Classic Dolomite Climbs (2008), Dolomites West and East (2005), Arrampicate sportive e vie moderne in Val di Fassa, Fiemme e Val Gardena (2004), Mid Grade Trad Rock: Western Dolomites Vol 1,
Out of print: Classic Dolomite Climbs (1988)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 SOUTH FACE - LEFT  
2Zeni CornerVII ***7
3Non ci resta che piangere8a * 
4Via Italia '618a ** 
5RossiIV+ 19
6Via Delle GuideVI- *3
 SOUTH FACE  
8Via Priz7b ** 
9Roberta 837b *** 
10Peperoncino6c *** 
11Baci da Honolulu + Alfa7b *** 
12Tabasco6c ** 
13Big MicheluzziVI ***37
14Buhl DirectVI+ **3
15Schubert/Route of FriendshipVI- 5c ***25
16Little MicheluzziV- ***46
17Labirinto Giallo6c *** 
18Little Micheluzzi Direct StartV- ***1
19Via IrmaVII- **2
20Rampa del TorsoIV **19
21Via le moto dal Sella7a+ *** 
 SOUTH FACE - RIGHT  
23Ivo4a *3
24Paradiso4a *2
25Spigolo5a ***3
26Prenatal6c * 
27Ein Tirol7b * 
28Triceratops7b+ * 
29Pace a Sarajevo7c+ * 
30Sika climb7b+ ** 
 Climb nameGradex
31Esito incerto7c * 
32Twenty Nine7a  
33Papa Giovanni Paolo II6c **5
34Il grande max5a 3
35Pastina5a 4
36Monica5c 2
37Elisabetta6a 1
386b Con Un Braccio6a * 
39L'indocina dentro5a 3
40Voce azzurra4a  
41Pietro torna indietro5a 1
42Sika Crime5c *1
43Vertical affecionado6b  
44Amore a prima vista6c  
45Mistral noir6a+  
46Tres Joli6a+ * 
47Non c'e due senza te7b * 
48Call girl6c * 
49Project One?  
50Cuore di pietra6b+ ** 
51Renato Reali5a 1
52Rock and Wall5a 1
53Volo annunciato5a * 
54Don Gaetano5c 1
55Power is Nothing6a 1
56Sport senza Frontiere6b 1
57Globetrotter6b+ * 
58AbramVII **5
 ABOVE CHAMOIS TERRACE  
60South-West Diedre - VinatzerTD 6
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