Glen Ogle Sport Crags

Climbs 107 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces ?

Crag features
Although no longer Scotland's Premier Sport Climbing area the Ogle valley still holds an attractive selection of mainly short, powerful sport climbs. Some of the crags especially on the Dark Side are little visited these days which is a shame as many gems lie hidden on the hillside. What you get with Glen Ogle is generally steep, often excellent climbing on fairly spaced bolts. At the time of writing (June 2010) some of the bolts on the wetter crags are in a questionable condition and careful inspection is recommended.

Expect a fair bit of bushwacking between buttresses if coming in high summer especially on the Sunny side as the bracken is relentless in its growth!

Good bouldering can be found spread across the area.

Access notes
Many birds nest in the Glen Ogle area.

Contact the MC of S, to get up-to-date informtation, and ensure you adhere to any bans in force.

7aMax Scottish Sport - A Selected Guide (2012), Scottish Rock - South (2008), Highland Outcrops (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Solitaire8a+ ***1
3Scaramanga7a+ ***2
4Boldfinger7a+ ** 
6Midge Patrol6b *3
7Easy Over7a 3
8Digital Quartz8b ** 
9Spiral Tribe8a+ ***1
10Off the Beaten Track8a **4
11Chain Lightning7c ***6
12One In The Eye For The Stick Men7a+ **6
14Raving Lunatics7b *2
15Recreational Chemistry6c+ *2
18Short Sharp Shocked6a+ 2
20Snipe Shadow8b ** 
21Arms Limitation7b+ ***1
23Ultraviolet6b+ *2
24Outshined6a+ *3
25Burnt Offerings6b+ **3
26Face The Heat7a **3
27Infrarete6b+ *4
28Under the Same Sun6b+ 3
29Burn Baby, Burn6a+ 5
30Burn It Up6b+ 1
32Don't Fight The Feeling6b *2
33Hold The Press7a *2
35Beggars Banquet6b+ *2
36Chimera6b+ **2
38Restless Souls7a **1
39Overlord7b *1
40Overkill7a+ **2
41Over The Top6b+ *2
42Pushover6b+ *4
43Pullover6b+ 3
45Munrobagger6b+ 5
46Cony the Calvinist6c 3
47Fat Eagles Fly Low6a+ 12
48Retribution6c+ 6
49Carry On Up The Corbetts6a+ 4
53Mona Sleeza6a+ *1
54Modern Tart6b+ *1
55Art Attack7a+ *2
57Poison IvyE3 5c *1
58Life in the fat lane6c *3
59Chasing the Bandwagon6b *3
60Reaching the Limit6c 3
61Clutching at Straws7a 2
62Dazed and Confused6a 5
63Having a Little Flutter6c+ **2
64Ceuse Jimmy6c **5
65Kinmont Times6a+ *4
66Lichen Virgin6a+ 9
67Loose Living6a *14
68Ghost TrailF6b+ *13
70Half Covered6b *2
71Chocoholics6a+ 4
72Fingers of Fudge6b+ 2
73Sudden Alchemy6b *4
74Hot Chocolate6b **9
75Sorry Tess6b 5
76The Greenhouse Defect6b **8
77Voodoo Ray6b 5
78Old Wives Tail6b **3
79Metal Guru6c+ **3
80The Dirty Dozen *6a 5
81It ain't over till it's over *6a+ 2
82Coward of the County *6a+ 1
83Cease Fire *8a+ ** 
84Rock Is Dead *6c+ 1
85Dark Skies *6b+ 2
86The Link *7c+ 1
87Children of the Revolutuon *7b 1
88After the Flood *6c 1
89Wristy Business *6c+ **1
90Raspberry Beret *6b+ 1
91Ship Ahoy *6b 1
92The Edge of Ecstasy *6c 1
93Rush *7a 1
94Carsonagenic *6a 1
95Hangin Out The Smalls *7a 1
96Under Wher? *6b 1
97XX *6c  
98Satan's Slaves *6a 1
99Maniaxe *6b 1
100Under Mind *6b+ 1
101Blithe Spirit *7a 1
102Eat Y'Self Fitter *6c 1
103Fight Fire With Fire *7c 1
104The Pack Horse *6c 1
105Havering Skate *6b+ 1
106Hyper Hyper *6b 1
107The Bends *7a+ 1
108Nitrogen *6b+ 1
109Northern Exposure *7a+ 1
110It Ain't Over Til It's Over *6a+ 1
111High And Dry *6b 1
112Idiot Wind *7b 1
113Fight or Flight *6c+ 1
114Slaphead *6b+ 1
115Fat Chance *6c 1
116Fight The Flab *6c+ 1
117Let it All Hang Out *6c+ 1
118Happy Campus *6c 1
119Hang On, *2 1
120Step On It *6a 1
121Take a Hike *7a 1
122Blind Faith *7b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer sheppy

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Easier routes on The Diamond and all routes on the Galleon are unclimbably dirty apart from Metal Guru and Old Wives Tale. Some bolting is poor and some loweroffs are awful. The main wall on The Diamond is in good condition at time of writing.
Fiend - 20/Jul/13
My second visit to the crag (sunny side) over the last couple of years. The sectors I've been to are generally slab like or vertical in nature, difficult to read (quite blind at times) and although weak at the moment, relatively sandbag. Despite this the location is fantastic on a good day with stunning vistas down the glen from many of the crags. Some of the hangers are a little rusty, but that's to be expected for crags exposed to the elements such as these. The walk in hasn't got any better and if you want good weather you'll have to persevere with bracket bashing to get to a sheep track which makes things a little easier. Alternatively hope someone has been up there recently to trample it all down! Again I won't rush back but as I'm from the area originally and still have family nearby, never say never. Interested in trying the dark side although concerned about the hangers as this side always appear to be wet and the bolts are pretty old.
ANC - 02/Jul/13
Some superb climbing on Creag Nan Cuileann if blind, slopey, lichenous pockets are your thing!
Smelly Fox - 11/Jun/11
Wading through dead bracken was the most memorable part of my visit to this crag. The routes are all utterly desperate, particularly given the amount of water running down the rocks. If it hadn't been fantastic weather, with a glorious view from the crag, I'd have been somewhat disgruntled about the effort I made to get there. Next time I go to Lochearnhead, I'll stick to bagging Munros.
Annette - 09/Nov/09
Walk in to the Warm Up crag is horrible. Uphill through a jungle of bracken. Not really worth it in my opinion unless you plan on taking a petrol powered strimmer with you. Guide book description is also rubbish. Parking for Warm Up crag is in the big layby leading to a gate into a field.
climberuk - 23/Aug/09