UKC

Climbs 150
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 200m a.s.l

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#notjustDunkeld © Fiend

Crag features

Although no longer Scotland's Premier Sport Climbing area the Ogle valley still holds an attractive selection of mainly short, powerful sport climbs. Some of the crags especially on the Dark Side are little visited these days which is a shame as many gems lie hidden on the hillside. What you get with Glen Ogle is generally steep, often excellent climbing on fairly spaced bolts. At the time of writing (June 2010) some of the bolts on the wetter crags are in a questionable condition and careful inspection is recommended.
Expect a fair bit of bushwacking between buttresses if coming in high summer especially on the Sunny side as the bracken is relentless in its growth!
Good bouldering can be found spread across the area.

 

Nesting bird update: Mirror wall has birds of prey nesting. Avoid!

Approach notes

Darkside: Park at the rough laybe directly opposite the viaduct and crags. Follow the path downhill to a log bridge, keep going downhill through ferns then up clearer, steeper ground to the viaduct. Under this, over fence, follow a faint trail beneath the boulders, then wade up ferns to the crag. 15 mins.

No Access Issues

Many birds nest in the Glen Ogle area.
Contact the MC of S, http://www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk/ to get up-to-date informtation, and ensure you adhere to any bans in force.

 

Mirror wall buttress has birds of prey nesting. Avoid!

Hello was thinking about trying this. Has anyone visited the crag recently?
chriskane - 30/Mar/18
Easier routes on The Diamond and all routes on the Galleon are unclimbably dirty apart from Metal Guru and Old Wives Tale. Some bolting is poor and some loweroffs are awful. The main wall on The Diamond is in good condition at time of writing.
Fiend - 20/Jul/13
My second visit to the crag (sunny side) over the last couple of years. The sectors I've been to are generally slab like or vertical in nature, difficult to read (quite blind at times) and although weak at the moment, relatively sandbag. Despite this the location is fantastic on a good day with stunning vistas down the glen from many of the crags. Some of the hangers are a little rusty, but that's to be expected for crags exposed to the elements such as these. The walk in hasn't got any better and if you want good weather you'll have to persevere with bracket bashing to get to a sheep track which makes things a little easier. Alternatively hope someone has been up there recently to trample it all down! Again I won't rush back but as I'm from the area originally and still have family nearby, never say never. Interested in trying the dark side although concerned about the hangers as this side always appear to be wet and the bolts are pretty old.
ANC - 02/Jul/13
Some superb climbing on Creag Nan Cuileann if blind, slopey, lichenous pockets are your thing!
Smelly Fox - 11/Jun/11
Wading through dead bracken was the most memorable part of my visit to this crag. The routes are all utterly desperate, particularly given the amount of water running down the rocks. If it hadn't been fantastic weather, with a glorious view from the crag, I'd have been somewhat disgruntled about the effort I made to get there. Next time I go to Lochearnhead, I'll stick to bagging Munros.
Annette - 09/Nov/09
Walk in to the Warm Up crag is horrible. Uphill through a jungle of bracken. Not really worth it in my opinion unless you plan on taking a petrol powered strimmer with you. Guide book description is also rubbish. Parking for Warm Up crag is in the big layby leading to a gate into a field.
climberuk - 23/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

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