UKC

Climbs 145
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces NW

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James working the cave roof project at the Toll Road Crags. © Beastly Squirrel

Crag features

Toll Road crags are a selection of limestone buttresses, walls caves and overhangs found in several small sectors spread out along the Weston Super Mare to Sand Bay coastal Toll road. The rock is solid and often pleasingly wave smoothed, and provides a variety of powerful and interesting problems. The locations are surprisingly secluded with great views out to sea. The majority of the bouldering is only affected by 9m+ tides, the 2nd highest in the world.

Credit should go to Dan Savory for discovering and developing the area.

Thanks to EsotericBouldering.com for the info!

Topo here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/17d7bTU2ONVSSMPus5tONyydN2QSNMZOq?usp=sharing

Approach notes

Easiest drive to approach is from Kewstoke, avoiding Weston town centre and seafront. Head directly down Kewstoke Road until nearing the old pier, parking is available on the left where there is a footpath into the woods for Worlebury Hill Fort, space for about 4 cars.

Alternatively previous directions: Drive to Weston-super-mare and head for the sea front and keeping the pier to your left,follow this road for about three miles past a newsagents on your right and a row of hotels on your left. Past these hotels the road bends to the right and up a small gradient about twenty yards to a t junction. turn right at the junction and about thirty yards down on the left. There is no longer parking at the cafe and I suggest the space by Worlebury hill fort
Cafe Sector: The Cafe is now derelict and no parking is available, rebels amongst us can still get through although there are temporary barriers, passing signs that say 'unsafe'. Head to the left of the adandoned cafe and down onto the beach.
Metal Steps Sector: Park in the lay bye on Kewstoke Road in the woods, follow a steep path directly down to a fishing ledge, on the left are metal steps (now rusted, missing railings and deemed unsafe for use) this is your way down to the beach
Fisherman's Ledge Sector: As for metal steps sector but walk east along the beach to the caves (5mins walk)
Lone Cave/Paul's Wall: Either access from metal steps and walk east (about 15-20mins walk) OR park in large wooden lay bye further up the road, walk along path along road then scramble down to another fishing ledge and walk west.
Little Cove: As for Lone Cave but walk east for 5mins.
Vector Slab: As for Lone Cave but walk east for 10mins.
ADVICE: It's easier and quicker to walk on the sand 10m away from the rocks then right up close to the rocks. Check the tide times before heading out.

I have driven a lot of miles ,to a lot of crags and this is the worst one I have been to !! couldn't really locate one decent route. unless you live 5 miles away don't waste your time going here !!
chudders1 - 31/Oct/16
A little too esoteric for me. Lots of bugs and crabs along with wet rock. Maybe visited at the wrong time. Shame though a few problems looked good but take more than one boulder mat for bad landings!
Oogachooga - 16/Sep/14
No problem, just organised the problems and added some access notes to each section. Also tweeked the grades so all should be accurate now, anyone wants them changed just message me via email/facebok/twitter/blog or whatever.
Beastly Squirrel - 23/Jun/13
Thanks for becoming the moderator James, I am sure we will get a more accurate order for the problems etc. now its under your stewardship.
tombeasley - 18/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

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