Toll Road Crags

Climbs 45 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Toll Road crags are a selection of limestone buttresses, walls caves and overhangs found in several small sectors spread out along the Weston Super Mare to Sand Bay coastal Toll road. The rock is solid and often pleasingly wave smoothed, and provides a variety of powerful and interesting problems. The locations are surprisingly secluded with great views out to sea. The majority of the bouldering is only affected by 9m+ tides, the 2nd highest in the world.

Credit should go to Dan Savory for discovering and developing the area.

Thanks to EsotericBouldering.com for the info!

Approach notes
Drive to Weston-super-mare and head for the sea front and keeping the pier to your left,follow this road for about three miles past a newsagents on your right and a row of hotels on your left. Past these hotels the road bends to the right and up a small gradient about twenty yards to a t junction. turn right at the junction and about thirty yards down on the left is a little cafe,parking is a bit awkward so try to park safley as possible.

Cafe Sector: Park by cafe. Walk through cafe gardens down to beach.

Metal Steps Sector: Park in the first obvious lay bye on and walk down to fishing ledge, then down metal steps.

Fisherman's Ledge Sector: As for metal steps sector but walk east along the beach to the caves (5mins walk)

Lone Cave/Paul's Wall: Either access from metal steps and walk east (about 15-20mins walk) OR park in large wooden lay bye further up the road, walk along path along road then scramble down to another fishing ledge and walk west.

Little Cove: As for Lone Cave but walk east for 5mins.

Vector Slab: As for Lone Cave but walk east for 10mins.

ADVICE: It's easier and quicker to walk on the sand 10m away from the rocks then right up close to the rocks. Check the tide times before heading out.

Guidebooks
Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 CAFE SECTOR  
2Salt and Vinegarf6A+ *1
3Bacon and Chipsf7B ***1
4Fish and Chipsf7B **3
5Egg and Chipsf7A+ *1
6Block Partyf6A+ *2
7Forced Entryf7B *1
8Tide of Screamsf7C 1
9The hand of Justicef6A *3
10Sloper Magicf6C *1
11Cider Pressf6C  
12The Erectionf4+ *5
13Death or Gloryf6C+  
 METAL STEPS SECTOR  
15The Tunnel Rooff6A+ 1
16Castle on a cloudf6B+ **1
 FISHERMAN'S LEDGE SECTOR  
18Guiness for Strengthf6B+ ***1
19London Pride *f4 1
20Spitfiref7A **5
21Spitfire SDSf7B+ **3
22The Tigers Nosef6A+ *7
23King Cobraf6A **8
24Special Brewf3+ 3
25Golden Gloryf6A 1
26Old Peculiarf6A+ *1
27Out of the stink and into the pinkf6B *1
 THE LONE CAVE / PAUL'S WALL  
29Blood, Sweat 'n Tearsf6C *4
30Paul's Problemf6A+ 1
31Fifty Per Cent Painf6C **2
32One Hundred Percent Painf7A+ ***5
33Lone Rangerf7C+ *1
34The Pillar Projectf7B ***1
35Cloudyf6A+ * 
36Cloudy Leftf6B  
 LITTLE COVE SECTOR  
38My Religionf7B ***6
39Desperate Danf7A *5
40Double Chinf6A *4
 VECTOR SLAB SECTOR  
42Vectorf5+ * 
43HMS Vectoryf7B *3
44HMS Vectory - Portsidef7B+ 1
45Newquay Brown *f5+ 1
46Ker Chang *f6A *1
47Tanglefoot *f6B+ *1
48Attack of the Silverfish *f6A 1
49Lilo *f5 1
50The Prow *f5+ 1
51A Quest to Far *f6A 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Beastly Squirrel

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A little too esoteric for me. Lots of bugs and crabs along with wet rock. Maybe visited at the wrong time. Shame though a few problems looked good but take more than one boulder mat for bad landings!
megamonkeyman - 16/Sep/14
No problem, just organised the problems and added some access notes to each section. Also tweeked the grades so all should be accurate now, anyone wants them changed just message me via email/facebok/twitter/blog or whatever.
Beastly Squirrel - 23/Jun/13
Thanks for becoming the moderator James, I am sure we will get a more accurate order for the problems etc. now its under your stewardship.
tombeasley - 18/Jun/13