View larger mapGrid Ref NN 215551 (OS Landranger #41)

Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 31/May/2012

Creag A'Bhancair

Argyll and Bute, SCOTLAND

Climbs 30 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A brilliant crag with a huge and steep rock wall on the west flank of Stob Coire na Tulachain on Buachaille Etive Mor.

Tunnel Wall is the steep, smooth, rhyolite, red wall within the larger crag of Creag A' Bhanchair. Whilst Bhancair has some excellent trad routes, including the Extreme Rock Highlands classic 'Carnivore' (John Cunningham and Mick Noon, 1958 and a direct finish by Don Whillans in 1962) Tunnel Wall itself is that rarest of things in the UK - a mountain sport climbing crag...and a blooming good one at that!

First bolted by Dave Cuthbertson in the mid 80's Tunnel Wall has never become super popular. The crags location at the head of Glen Coe enures it receives it's fair share of 'West Coast' weather and pick a dampish and still evening in August and you will share the crag with a million midges. However, infact Tunnel Wall is often sheltered from the worst of the weather out on the coast, receives a good deal of afternoon end evening sun and frequently has a breeze to keep the late summer midges away.

Not only that but the climbing is superb - steep (gently overhanging), sustained and fairly fingery with some big pitches, generally requiring a 60m rope. The big 5 sport routes; Uncertain Emotions (7b), The Railway Chilldren (7c),Tribeswoman (7c+), Fated Path (7c+) and Admission (7c+) are all now re-bolted to equiped lower offs. They are all given FOUR or three stars in the new Glen Coe guide.

Two superb new routes, not in the guide, were put up by Dave Macleod in early summer 2005. "The left hand line, The Third Eye (7c) provided a slightly softer option than the line up of 7c+s on this wall. Just to the right, Axiom turned out to be rather more challenging with a hard and devious crux section. Its initial grade of 7c+ was thought to be a little harsh by Dave Birkett who made the second ascent, thinking it was more like 8a." (Dave Macleod).

So there's plenty to go at!

It's worth taking a clip stick as the first bolt on some of the routes is rather high - and above the crux in the case of Tribeswoman!

Access notes
From Lagangarbh follow the path up into Coire na Tulaich and on the west side scramble up to the crag before the scree slopes.

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 

0.3mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
14 kph

0.2mm rain
Sun
13 °C
24 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
14 °C
12 kph

2.0mm rain
Sun
14 °C
19 kph

13.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
26 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Northwest HighlandsMet Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Glen Coe (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 CREAG A'BHANCAIR LEFT SIDE  
2The ChimneyVD  
3CarnivoreE2 5c **28
4Carnivore Original FinishE3 6a ***1
5Meat BeaterE3 5c * 
6MisteakenE5 6a ** 
7Twilight ZoneE6 6a ** 
8Celtic DawnE5 6a *2
9Romantic RealityE7 6b ***1
 TUNNEL WALLS SPORT CLIMBS  
11The Third Eye7c **21
12Axiom8a ***1
13Admission7c+ ***5
14Fated Mission7c+ ***3
15Fated Path7c+ ***11
16The Tribeswoman7c+ ***25
17Vector Space7c+ *** 
 Climb nameGradex
18Railway Children7c ***12
19Uncertain Emotions7b ***57
 CREAG A'BHANCAIR RIGHT SIDE  
21SymbiosisE8 6b *** 
22Up with the SunE7 6b *** 
23The Risk BusinessE5 6a ***17
24Gone With The WindE7 6b ***1
25BloodlineE3 5c/6a * 
26Cayman GroovesE2 5b **2
 CREAG NA TULAICH  
28Arrowhead GrooveVD 3
29Crest RouteM 1
30Easy GoingE2 5b **4
31Too Cold for ComfortE3 5c **3
32Dwindle WallE1 5a **3
33Walk With Destiny *E2 5c **1
34Glory Hole *E3 5c 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Advertise here
Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer sheppy

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Celtic Dawn cleaned 07/14 as 1st pitch to new route above.Peg no longer exists but good small wires in same slot.
smally - 08/Jul/14

Romantic Reality with Carnivore Direct start cleaned 06/14.
smally - 25/Jun/14

I've added two climbs to this crag which are on Creag na Tulaich which is set just up from Creag a' Bhancair. There are not many routes at this crag but and it is very nearby hence I decided not to create a new entry for the crag in the database. The routes are well worth the walk up the hill.
gforce - 19/May/08