Symonds Yat

Climbs 466 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 108m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
A characterful and adventurous crag with a bit of a misinformed negative reputation. Very good steep and juggy limestone which is often much better than it first appears, mainly sound but with occasional looseness in places, so always take care. One of the major climbable areas in the Wye Valley, in an idyllic setting, a great variety in rock features, including a pinnacle and caves, a good spread of routes across the grade range and the bonus of parking and a tea shack at the top!! Some real classic routes and always a quiet esoteric corner to explore. Mainly single-pitch routes 10m up to 30 metres plus some longer two pitch routes spread around the place. Protection tends to be solid but can be spaced with sometimes bold starts. SY has had a reputation for sandbag grades, but this is now a thing of the past (See current 2010 CC guide). Because of the tree cover and steepness of the rock, most of the crag remains dry after long spells of rain in the Summer, although the paths below become extremely muddy under foot.

A recent overhaul and reappraisal has been carried out for the excellent new Climber's Club definitive guide (2010)

Access notes
To reach SY from Bristol, cross the old Severn Bridge, pass Chepstow on the A48 and take the B4228 through Tutshill and Woodcroft along the top of Wintour's Leap. Continue for 10 miles to Coleford from where SY should be signposted -- watch out for the turning right a short way up the hill that leaves the town, carry on straight

across the Pike House crossroads. In less than a mile, almost opposite the church of Christchurch, there is a small crossroads and then immediately an oblique fork to the left; take this (B4432). After about a mile, after The Rock Inn on your right, there is a well-signed entrance to the main car-parking area to the left (Pay and Display). Note that this car park closes at dusk, so late finishers should seek out alternative parking arrangements just a little bit further up the road on the right.

Access to SY have been painstakingly and patiently negotiated. Note that the areas known as 'Yat Rock' and 'Coldwell Rocks' are now out of bounds for climbers. In previous guides these areas have come under the collective name of 'The Western Cliffs'. Also out of bounds are 'The Seven Sisters' (sometimes called Symmonds Yat West), and in fact all the other outlying limestone crags. This is due to the prescence of rare flora and fauna. Please do consult the guide for the specifics of SY access.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Symonds Yat (2010)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE INTRODUCTORY ROCKS  
2Fin-ishVS 4b 22
3SoderamaVD 72
4GarlicD 128
5Babies Making ChoicesHS 4b 26
6B-B-B-BoonVS 4c 41
7GibbonHS 4b 127
8DwarfHS 4b 88
9Funky GibbonHS 4c 129
10Funky DungHVS 5b 39
11StumperVD 182
12Hedgehog SandwichS 4a 116
13Derek, The Flightless HedgehogHVS 5a 57
14Cave WallVD 176
15Jackal's ArêteHS 4b 94
16Jackal's WallE1 5b 21
17Jackal's GullyD 192
18Hi Ena! ArêteHVS 5a 22
19Victor CrackS 4a 149
20Fetid Dingo's KidneysE1 5a 18
21SnitchHVS 4c 57
22SnatchHVS 5a 30
23TwitchHVS 4c 20
24BorderlineE3 5c 5
25Quick TickE4 6a 10
26Slick TrickE5 6a 7
27Up the NeckE3 5c 17
28The BulgerHVS 4c 30
29Slavers of the SlobsHVS 4c 8
30WandererD 52
31CrikeyVD 52
32ProblematicE1 6a 4
33Overhanging VeeVD 20
34Free The Severn SistersE1 5a 11
35Pre-AmbleVD 79
36AmblerS 4a *250
37KrakatoaHVS 5b 28
38VesuviusE2 5b 26
39SuckerE4 5c 7
40CoruscationE2 5b 10
41Little RodenE3 5c 9
42EtnaHS 4a *152
43Blood BrotherHS 4a 58
44Odd-BodHS 4a 26
45Odd-JobS 4a 15
46Sentry SlabS 4a 19
47SentinelS 4a 39
48BlackheadHS 4a 15
49Gnome's GroanE1 5b 8
50Goblin's GrumbleVS 4c 33
51Pylon's PlaintE1 5b 2
52Leprechaun's LamentE2 5c 9
53AquariusE5 6a 2
54Modern ManE3 6a *6
55The Promised LandE5 6a 2
56Milk and HoneyE5 6a 2
57AgoraphobiaE1 5b *28
58Agoraphobia Direct StartE5 6a 2
59Mind GamesE4 5c *8
60Brain StrainE3 5c *6
61The CasbahE2 5c 7
62The Bizarre StartE3 6b 1
63PowerthrillE3 6a *1
64Psych-upE5 6b *1
65Isobel's WallE2 5c 2
66Sludge PumpD 5
67A Few Awkward SpotsE3 5c  
 HOLLOW ROCK AREA  
69Long ManHVS 5a 11
70Senior MomentE5 6a 3
71Matchstick ManHVS 5a *57
72DeepeeE6 6a *5
73Fat ManHVS 5a 20
74Crack and SlabVD 141
75RecallD 23
76RecollectionD 52
77CascadeHS 4b 53
78Brief EncounterHS 4b 5
79Thirty Thousand PecesHS 4b  
80Bull in a GatewayHS 4b 16
81Root RouteD 80
82Route Right of Root RouteVD 5
83Lego PensionerE1 5c 32
84Meccano KidE1 5c 28
85MagicE2 5c 6
86Snoozin' SuzieVD **990
87A Right Carry OnHS 4b *167
88Suzie JewelHS 4a 5
89Jewel in the CrownE2 5a 2
90Too Loose for the Shrieking GooseE3 5c 3
91HeroesE2 5b 2
92Biblin WallHVS 5b *15
93High JackE1 5b 1
94Take Fewer PuffsE2 5c 1
95The NavvyE1 5b 3
96CrunchE4 6a 2
97Looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesE2 5c  
98Absent FriendsE2 5b 3
99PhizzogHVS 5a *25
100Diamond GrooveVS 4c *21
101Rough DiamondHVS 5a 6
102Direct FinishE1 5b  
103The BeakE2 5b *18
104Scooby DooHVS 5a *41
105The RussianHVS 5a **278
106White OrchidE5 6a 2
107MonsterificE2 5c 7
108Christmas CarrollsE2 5b  
109MockingbirdHVS 4c *39
110Newcastle ArmsHVS 4c 4
111Red Rose SpeedwayHVS 5a ***310
112Dont Fear The ReaperE4 6a *2
113Lord of the DanceHVS 5b 3
114Big DaddyE5 6b 3
115OffspringVS 4c *177
116The WastelandE3 6a *21
117ApologiesE4 6a *2
118Too Freaked to SpeakE4 6a 6
119The AnkhE2 5c **73
120White LieE3 5c 1
121TerminatorE5 6b 2
122Black TulipE4 6a **7
123SuicideE4 6a 1
124ThrillerE4 6a 3
125Fortune Favours the BraveE4 6a **4
126King CrabE3 6a *9
127Hole in the WallHVS 5a *130
128Where Have All the Flowers Gone?E1 5b 13
129The Penny DroppedE2 5c *29
130SwedenE3 5c **13
131PeacockVS 4b *247
132YorkerHVS 4c 7
133GrobblerVS 4c 42
134ArgonautVS 4b 53
135Golden FleeceHS 4b **1018
136Golden Fleece - Left-Hand FinishS 4a *41
137Never Trust a Smiling CatE2 5c *54
138The DruidVS 4c **364
139The StaffE1 5b 45
140ExchangeVS 4b *590
141Track ShoeHS 4b 55
142TransformerHS 4b 13
143Transformer - Direct StartE1 5c 2
144Yat ChimneyD 21
145Liver And OnionsVD 46
146Flying MachineVD 86
147CracktitHS 4b 12
148Happy BirthdayVD 4
149A Story Like the WindE2 5c  
150Boar in the WoodsVS 4b 5
151ChevronHVS 5a 7
152Tony Didn't Done ThisE1 5a 4
153Oh! Yes He DidE3 5c 6
154English Country GardenHVS 5a *40
155Green Grow the Grollies Oh!VS 4c *129
156Past PurpleVS 4c 37
157Fly LiceHS 4b 61
158Fly Lice - Direct StartE1 5b 1
159Training for EverestHVS 5a 15
160Trundlebum RexS *362
161FootpadHVS 5b 13
162Footpad - Direct StartE1 5b 6
163Big Bad CVS 4c *78
164Ramblin' RoseHS 4b 7
165Ryan's DaughterE2 5c  
166Pull Yourselves OffHVS 5b *9
 THE WHITE WALL  
168Motorway MadnessE3 5c *3
169Tales of the RiverbankE3 5c 2
170The Last ValleyE3 5b 6
171Ego WarriorE1 5b *25
172Run Robert RunE3 5c *8
173Racing DemonE1 5b 1
174Edward the FirstE2 5b *21
175StrathdonE1 5b *54
176Mister StrathdonE2 5b 3
177Double Die HardE3 6a **18
178The BellHVS 5b 4
179YatesHVS 5a 3
180Owl CaponeE2 5b *11
181Winter KillsE3 5c 1
182BritanniaVS 4c 8
183One True PathHVS 5a *18
184PrioryVS 4b 21
185CollaborationVS 4b 3
186GeriatrixHVS 4c 8
187NefariousE4 6b 3
188The Redeemed FinishE5 6b *1
189Gone to TexasE4 6a 1
190Night NurseE1 5b *8
 THE WATERPIPE BAY  
192Parachute (1)HS 4b 144
193TanzaniaHVS 5a 4
194The Empty Days (1)HVS 5a 6
195White Hart (1)VS 4b 34
196Water TortureE2 5b 18
197Bold and NoseyE1 5b 32
198GumshoeHVS 5a 46
199Slidewater Shuffle (1)VS 4b 45
200The Bathroom WindowVS 4b 8
201FlightVS 4b *116
202Flight DeckHVS 5a *51
203Arrow Root (1)VD 202
204FletchVS 4b 11
205Parachute (2)S 4a *55
206Every Day's Like SundayE4 6a 3
207White Heart (2)HVS 5b **3
208Black HeartE3 5c 3
209Knots in MayE3 5c *4
210Fly on the WallHVS 5a *16
211Just a WallflowerE1 5b 3
212Jack of DiamondsVS 4b 11
213Slidewater Shuffle (2)VS 4b 6
214Mean Mr. MustardHVS 4c 2
215Sinergen (2)HVS 4c 18
216AfterbirthS 4a 28
217SuspicionVS 4b 18
218LocustVD 75
219TemikHS 4a 18
220ChorionE1 5b 5
221EarthboundVD 13
222The Stud Cat from JerseyE2 5b 4
223EmbryoVD 101
224Jilted JohnS 4a *73
225Peace for MargyHVS 5a 9
226BaboonE2 5c 1
227Orang-utanE2 5b 2
228MorkHVS 5a 3
229Crumble CrackHVS 5a 3
230Arrow Root (2)M 38
231The Seven Deadly DwarvesVD *103
232Rootin TootVD 121
233FarewellHS 4b 46
234Broken RootD 58
235Musta BindunVD 68
236WondermashHVS 5a 15
237OtakVS 4b *29
238Busy Hands is Happy HandsHVS 5a *16
239Rite RootD 57
240Small PotatoesE1 5c 6
241ArachnidE1 5b 30
242OniscusE3 6a 4
243Mr FlexE5 6b *3
244Feel the PinchE2 5c 2
245The JewessE3 5c **9
246Flexi JerkoffE5 6a 2
247Big GirlE1 5b 7
248Dave's DownfallHS 4b 20
249DrunkVS 4c 8
250Leaders of MenHVS 5a 4
251Loony on the LooseVS 4b 7
252Black DandruffHVS 4c 7
 THE LONG STONE AREA  
254AzoicS 4a 80
255NikabrikD 65
256GMTVS 4a 16
257Cave ArêteHS 4a 18
258Vote ECOVD 3
259Last FlingHS 4a 14
260Tongue In CheekE2 5c 1
261Lickin' The LipE4 6a 2
262Alpenistes Left HandE2 5c *7
263AlpinistesE1 5b 16
264Fate for BreakfastE2 5a 2
265Breakfast in AmericaHS 4b 19
266PorridgeVD 32
267MuesliHVS 5b 6
268LurcherHVS 4c 22
269Time Is ShortE2 5b 14
270Red RackVD 140
271Slanting SlotVS 5a 49
272Dead ChurchillsE2 5b *33
273The Little Red EdgeVD *98
274Needle Rock GullyD 173
275CrypsisVD 18
 LONGSTONE PINNACLE  
277MinervaS 4b 37
278Golden SuspenderE2 5c 2
279VertigoS *597
280Petticoat LaneE1 5b 11
281Ten Years OnHVS 5a 7
282WhittVS 4c ***426
283Orange WallHVS 5a **76
284Free RadicalE2 5c **30
285Heart of OakE4 6a **5
286Strong MedicineE4 6a *2
287Two HundredE2 5b *2
 INSANITY CAVE  
289StaircaseVD 50
290BanisterS 70
291Arch WallHVS 4c 57
292Homo ErectusE5 6a 11
293Piggy MaloneE4 6a 42
294Baissé FreussardE6 6b *5
295On the Lip of InsanityE7 6b ***3
296TroglodyteE3 6a *2
297PerimeterHS 4b 50
298Tea on a Rainy DayVD 4a *197
299WeathermanD 43
300A Winters TailD 2
301Midsummer DelayHS 4a 2
302DescenderD 19
303Four SeasonsD 14
304Spring CleanHS 4b 8
305Okay FingersE5 6b *1
306Autumn DreamVS 4c 7
307Autumn's DawnHVS 5a *10
308King of the SwingersE1 5c *2
 BOWLERS HOLE AREA  
310SudatoriumS 4a 10
311The Gay RavenE1 5c 7
312Dancer on the WindVS 4c 15
313Nansen CornerS *206
314BookwormVS 4b 50
315Bookworm/BludgeonHVS 5a 22
316BludgeonHVS 5a 7
317ClaptrapVS 4b 23
318Episcopalian ToothpickE1 5a 18
319Nansen CrackS *240
320Presbyterian ToothpickHVS 5a 29
321Mango HighwayE2 5b 31
322Mango ChutneyE2 5c 3
323Kipper CrackVS 4c *63
324DeadlineE3 5c **7
325God KnowsE3 5b 3
326KebboHS 4b *107
327TolkHVS 4c *27
328SalyutE3 5c 3
329Threshold of InsanityE1 5b 1
330She's Lost ControlE2 5b *6
331PredatorHVS 5a 4
332AlbanyHS 4a *116
333SalutationVS 4c 36
334Heart of the TreeE1 5b 2
335Tree RootE1 5a 1
336Caving DirectVS 4b 2
337Fire LighterVS 4c 6
338Scar TrekE5 6a  
339On Bondai BeachE6 6b *1
340Space : The final frontier...E5 6b *1
341Cave RouteE2 5c 12
342Slab Route IIE2 5c 2
343The TripE1 5b **39
344YongonaE3 5b *11
345HeadbangerE1 5b 10
346Blackie BoyHS 4a 12
347Highways Of The SunVS 4c 4
348Roger's RouteVS 4b 3
349Lynda's RouteE1 5b 16
350Sunset ChaserHS 4a 8
351The GrockettE3 5b 2
352SickleHVS 5a *5
353The Book of British TreesS 18
354AngelaHS 4c 16
355PaulHS 4b 2
356Prima GravidaE3 5c *7
357Out The BottleE3 5c 1
358Tiger Cub SpecialVS 5a *51
359Old GringoVS 4b 13
360PistolS 87
361ZymurgyS 49
362Fuck the Royal WeddingVS 4b 1
363ScatologyS 142
364HomoeopathS *236
365LuciferE1 5b 10
366AbacusVS 4c 18
367Tufty Club SpecialHVS 4c 6
368Gripfruit JuiceHS 4b 49
369Rebelious JukeboxHVS 5b 6
370Too Old to Rock 'n' RollE3 6a 9
371Indian Rope TrickHVS 5b 3
372HibernationVD 57
373Catch-22HS 4a 37
374However Ugly Society Becomes, Nature Will Always Be BeautifulE1 5b 5
375NovitiateVD 51
376Andy RandyHS 31
377Looby LooS 22
378Old HandsVD 22
379PlopalotVD 19
380Tarzan's NutsVD 29
381Seth's ClothS 4a 25
382Awopbopalubop AwambamboomVS 4c 5
 FAR SOUTH BAY AREA  
384Let There Be LightVS 4c 3
385EmeraldVD 70
386Traveller's RestVD *120
387Fat CatE3 6a 1
388Stress ArêteE1 5b *53
389WimpleHS 4b 3
390Is It A Banana?E5 6b *1
391Oomigooli GrooveE1 5b *38
392Snatch-BackE4 6a *2
393Devil DogE3 5c 1
394Clever CatE4 6a 2
395Winky Wanky WallE1 5a 13
396Thin LionE1 5b 3
397Central RouteVD 80
398Mellow YellowE1 5b *9
399Pure GoldE4 6b 2
400Yellow Grip RoadE2 5c *13
401Yellow Grip GrooveE1 5a 5
402Yellow PerilHVS 5a 13
403JulepS 19
404CornergrotD 21
405Farewell to ArmsE1 5b 4
406Moss WallHS 4b 9
407Pot and GlassVS 4c 14
408My Noble Son SethE2 5b **33
409The ScampHVS 5a *24
410RhubarbHS 4b *65
411Red MenaceHVS 5b *9
412Red ShiftVS 4c *16
413Eddie CollinsHS 4b 1
414Dennis the MenaceE2 6a 1
415Burning UpE3 5c 2
416Forbidden ColoursE4 5c *1
417Rainbow WarriorE2 5c **14
418Deep SixE3 5c *2
419Pam's PrideVS 4c **74
420MyxomatosisVS 4c *32
421Return of the GladiatorVS 4c *15
422SagittaS 4b 36
423An Error of JudgementHS 4a 12
424Barry the Whale's Right LegE1 5b 4
425SarcoptesHVS 5b *33
426Launch BerryE1 5b 9
427Joyce's RouteS 4a **173
428No ChargeE1 5c 14
429Charge TransferHVS 5b *23
430Little Big ManHVS 5a 10
431CheHVS 5b 5
 THE CRIMEAN WALL  
433The Light BrigadeVD 1
434GrubbocksVS 5a 5
435Milky TumE1 5b 7
436Marshall's RetreatHS 4b 16
437Jo's AdvanceE1 5b 5
438Let's Run It Up the Flagpole and See Who Salutes ItHVS 5b 8
439Hold FireE1 5c 3
440Fire at WillHVS 5a 6
441Which One's Will?D 8
442Take CoverD 2
443Take AimD 3
 NEW ORLEANS BUTTRESS  
445SweepD 13
446Happy EndingE2 5a 11
447Birthday ArêteHVS 5a *20
448Mister Kerr SirVS 4c 21
449AlabamaVD 36
450Everything's Gone GreenE1 5b 11
451Cotton Club CrackHS 4b 29
452John HollingsworthHVS 4c 9
453MasqueradeVD 57
454Mardi GrasD 68
455The Big EasyHS 4c 68
456Plantation ChimneyD 81
457Southern ComfortVS 4c *45
458Louisiana BelleHS 4b 62
459PlopE3 6a *10
460MississippiD 64
461Baton RougeVS 4b 28
462Mystic MagpieHS 4a 19
463How D'ya Like Them Apples?HVS 5a 12
464IckVS 5a 12
 FINAL ROCKS  
466BabsterVS 5a 3
467The Crab GodHS 4a 1
468The Pylon KingE4 6b **4
469Bwornone 5a 4
470Eeyahnone 4c 5
471Author AlertD 3
472Pants in the HedgerowVS 5a 5
473Super Duper Bad Boy FinishE3 6b 1
474A New LifeE4 6b **4
475Bee AlertHS 4b 4
476Yew CountryE1 5c 5
477A Little RustlingS 8
478FinalityE3 5c *5
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Big Lee

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
HS 4b routes r bloody hard here so be carefull.
mrdigitaljedi - 13/Jul/14
17th May - Blackbirds nesting about two-thirds up Nansen Crack. On 5 eggs. Please take care or avoid. Should fledge within a month or so.
Rob Morgan - 17/May/14
As of 26/05/13 there was a female mallard nesting on the pinnacle, so watch where you step!
vertigo714 - 27/May/13
Hi Jay1902, think you might be out of luck with the sport climbing at Symonds, if you look at the routes on the page there are 3 routes with a sport grading, not much help if your after a load of sport or a day out! I'd try Ban-Y-Gor or tintern, some great sport climbing there!! P.s do you work at go outdoors in gloucester??
McKEuan - 16/May/11
Hi, i'm relatively new to climbing, and i'm starting to sport climb outside, are there many sports routes here??
Jay1902 - 03/Mar/11
The Pike House pub has been flattened this week. It's signposted to Ross & Symonds Yat.
morticiaskeeper - 23/Oct/09
The dodgey pillar at the start of "Coruscation" and "Little Roden" has now collapsed leaving a steeper but much more solid start, however, the crucial small wire placement just above has shattered (not linked with the rockfall), subsequently "Coruscation" is now E2 5c and "Little Roden" E3 5c.
The Pylon King - 14/Aug/09
Currently being checked for new C.C. guide due early 2010, lots of routes being cleaned of loose rock and vegetation as well as threads and peg replacement. All bolts are being removed. Check this database for current individual route information.
The Pylon King - 08/Nov/08
Keep in mind that The Russian, graded HVS 5a, is a serious undertaking. It was a notorious sandbag when graded at VS but even at HVS it has seen many falls and at least one recent fatality. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=144389 Although somewhat polished it is a great route but it requires the knowledge to place small wiress in less than perfect placements while under pressure. The route seduces you to take one or more moves up in the hope of finding a bomber placement that just doesn't materialise. With the right approach it is well enough protected but having led it recently I would have no argument with E1 5a.
poey50 - 29/Aug/08
not so popular with the folks on here but never the less a good place to climb. Lots of intersting features (mud and loose blocks to name a couple!) but worth a visit and certainly very different if you're a grit climber
hereforded - 21/May/07
Stay away from inroductory rocks and far south. Although both have some lovely climbing, these are particularly popular with groups and to say that some of the rock is polished is an understatement! I live near the "yat" and I feel that it's had to many negative comments about the state of the rock i.e loose and dirty holds. There are some awesome climbs there and it definitely has it's own unique personality. Anyone visiting the wye valley should give it a go and a trip to wintours leap is also definitely recommended (but give yourself plenty of time to find your route as it can be a bit tricky).
petercollins - 25/Jul/06
have to say that SY is home to some excellent climbing despite what some people say, my top ten would be...1.RedRoseSpeedway (HVS), high in the grade but well worth it! 2.The Ankh (E2) superb! 3. Stress Arete (E1) 4. Whitt (VS) great for a first trip to the longstone pinnacle. 5. The Russian (HVS) easier than "red rose speedway" 6. Golden Fleece (S) wonderful openbook corner 7. Bookworm (HS) excellent entry moves 8. Snoozin' Suzie (VDiff) easy climbing but great intro to multipitch routes 9. Winky Wanky Wall (E1) Brave the runout for some of the best wall clinbing at the yat 10. Nansen's Corner (S) good for a first lead
AlexP - 28/Dec/02
Worth the trip just for 'The Russian' (HVS 5a? ***) which got my season off to a flying start a couple of years ago.
Will Judge - 04/Nov/02
Symonds Yat has a character all of its own and is particularly suitable for middle grade climbers, with some excellent routes in the range Severe to HVS, although some of the harder routes (within the range of ordinary mortals, not the occasional E6 horror) are challenging and good value as well. Don\'t go on a wet day as the bottom of the crags gets very muddy and slippery, and the crag does take a while to dry (if you want a quick-dry crag in the Wye Valley, go to Wintours Leap, or if it\'s raining go to Wyndcliffe where you can climb dry rock in a downpour!) At the Yat, I recommend Snoozin Susie (V Diff - real nice); Golden Fleece, Salutation (for the top pitch), Kipper Crack (Severe); Peacock, Offspring, The Druid, Whit, Mockingbird, Pam\'s Pride at VS); The Russian, Strathdon, Stress Arete at HVS; E1/E2: The Trip (out there), Rainbow Warrior, Red Rose Speedway (brilliant), The Ankh, Yellow Grip Road. The most unlikely route I\'ve done is The Wasteland - go to the bottom and have a look! There is gear!
Bill Parker - 23/Apr/02
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These details were last updated on 04/Jan/2013

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