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These details were last updated on 04/Jan/2013

Symonds Yat

Gloucestershire, ENGLAND

Climbs 463 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 108m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
A characterful and adventurous crag with a bit of a misinformed negative reputation. Very good steep and juggy limestone which is often much better than it first appears, mainly sound but with occasional looseness in places, so always take care. One of the major climbable areas in the Wye Valley, in an idyllic setting, a great variety in rock features, including a pinnacle and caves, a good spread of routes across the grade range and the bonus of parking and a tea shack at the top!! Some real classic routes and always a quiet esoteric corner to explore. Mainly single-pitch routes 10m up to 30 metres plus some longer two pitch routes spread around the place. Protection tends to be solid but can be spaced with sometimes bold starts. SY has had a reputation for sandbag grades, but this is now a thing of the past (See current 2010 CC guide). Because of the tree cover and steepness of the rock, most of the crag remains dry after long spells of rain in the Summer, although the paths below become extremely muddy under foot.

A recent overhaul and reappraisal has been carried out for the excellent new Climber's Club definitive guide (2010)

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
8 °C
18 kph

4.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
31 kph

8.3mm rain
10 °C
22 kph

3.1mm rain
11 °C
13 kph

0.6mm rain
Sunny periods
10 °C
15 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Symonds Yat (2010)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Fin-ishVS 4b 20
3SoderamaVD 66
4GarlicD 117
5Babies Making ChoicesHS 4b 26
6B-B-B-BoonVS 4c 38
7GibbonHS 4b 120
8DwarfHS 4b 83
9Funky GibbonHS 4c 123
10Funky DungHVS 5b 36
11StumperVD 167
12Hedgehog SandwichS 4a 110
13Derek, The Flightless HedgehogHVS 5a 54
14Cave WallVD 160
15Jackal's ArêteHS 4b 88
16Jackal's WallE1 5b 19
17Jackal's GullyD 173
18Hi Ena! ArêteHVS 5a 19
19Victor CrackS 4a 138
20Fetid Dingo's KidneysE1 5a 18
21SnitchHVS 4c 55
22SnatchHVS 5a 29
23TwitchHVS 4c 19
24BorderlineE3 5c 5
25Quick TickE4 6a 9
26Slick TrickE5 6a 6
27Up the NeckE3 5c 16
28The BulgerHVS 4c 28
29Slavers of the SlobsHVS 4c 6
30WandererD 43
31CrikeyVD 45
32ProblematicE1 6a 4
33Overhanging VeeVD 18
34Free The Severn SistersE1 5a 11
35Pre-AmbleVD 72
36AmblerS 4a *230
37KrakatoaHVS 5b 26
38VesuviusE2 5b 25
39SuckerE4 5c 7
40CoruscationE2 5b 10
41Little RodenE3 5c 9
42EtnaHS 4a *139
43Blood BrotherHS 4a 53
44Odd-BodHS 4a 23
45Odd-JobS 4a 14
46Sentry SlabS 4a 17
47SentinelS 4a 36
48BlackheadHS 4a 12
49Gnome's GroanE1 5b 8
50Goblin's GrumbleVS 4c 30
51Pylon's PlaintE1 5b 2
52Leprechaun's LamentE2 5c 9
53AquariusE5 6a 2
54Modern ManE3 6a *6
55The Promised LandE5 6a 2
56Milk and HoneyE5 6a 2
57AgoraphobiaE1 5b *24
58Agoraphobia Direct StartE5 6a 1
59Mind GamesE4 5c *7
60Brain StrainE3 5c *6
61The CasbahE2 5c 7
62The Bizarre StartE3 6b 1
63PowerthrillE3 6a *1
64Psych-upE5 6b *1
65Isobel's WallE2 5c 2
66Sludge PumpD 4
67A Few Awkward SpotsE3 5c  
69Long ManHVS 5a 9
70Senior MomentE5 6a 3
71Matchstick ManHVS 5a *54
72DeepeeE6 6a *5
73Fat ManHVS 5a 18
74Crack and SlabVD 128
75RecallD 18
76RecollectionD 45
77CascadeHS 4b 47
78Brief EncounterHS 4b 5
79Thirty Thousand PecesHS 4b  
80Bull in a GatewayHS 4b 15
81Root RouteD 70
82Route Right of Root RouteVD 4
83Lego PensionerE1 5c 30
84Meccano KidE1 5c 23
85MagicE2 5c 6
86Snoozin' SuzieVD **876
87A Right Carry OnHS 4b *149
88Suzie JewelHS 4a 5
89Jewel in the CrownE2 5a 2
90Too Loose for the Shrieking GooseE3 5c 3
91HeroesE2 5b 2
92Biblin WallHVS 5b *13
93High JackE1 5b 1
94Take Fewer PuffsE2 5c  
95The NavvyE1 5b 3
96CrunchE4 6a 2
97Looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesE2 5c  
98Absent FriendsE2 5b 3
99PhizzogHVS 5a *21
100Diamond GrooveVS 4c *18
101Rough DiamondHVS 5a 5
102Direct FinishE1 5b  
103The BeakE2 5b *15
104Scooby DooHVS 5a *27
105The RussianHVS 5a **248
106White OrchidE5 6a 2
107MonsterificE2 5c 6
108Christmas CarrollsE2 5b  
109MockingbirdHVS 4c *34
110Newcastle ArmsHVS 4c 3
111Red Rose SpeedwayHVS 5a ***274
112Dont Fear The ReaperE4 6a *2
113Lord of the DanceHVS 5b 3
114Big DaddyE5 6b 3
115OffspringVS 4c *155
116The WastelandE3 6a *20
117ApologiesE4 6a *2
118Too Freaked to SpeakE4 6a 6
119The AnkhE2 5c **65
120White LieE3 5c 1
121TerminatorE5 6b 2
122Black TulipE4 6a **6
123SuicideE4 6a 1
124ThrillerE4 6a 3
125Fortune Favours the BraveE4 6a **4
126King CrabE3 6a *9
127Hole in the WallHVS 5a *104
128Where Have All the Flowers Gone?E1 5b 13
129The Penny DroppedE2 5c *28
130SwedenE3 5c **11
131PeacockVS 4b *220
132YorkerHVS 4c 7
133GrobblerVS 4c 38
134ArgonautVS 4b 51
135Golden FleeceHS 4b **942
136Golden Fleece - Left-Hand FinishS 4a *17
137Never Trust a Smiling CatE2 5c *47
138The DruidVS 4c **326
139The StaffE1 5b 40
140ExchangeVS 4b *525
141Track ShoeHS 4b 54
142TransformerHS 4b 11
143Transformer - Direct StartE1 5c 2
144Yat ChimneyD 20
145Liver And OnionsVD 42
146Flying MachineVD 81
147CracktitHS 4b 12
148Happy BirthdayVD 3
149A Story Like the WindE2 5c  
150Boar in the WoodsVS 4b 5
151ChevronHVS 5a 7
152Tony Didn't Done ThisE1 5a 4
153Oh! Yes He DidE3 5c 6
154English Country GardenHVS 5a *33
155Green Grow the Grollies Oh!VS 4c *116
156Past PurpleVS 4c 36
157Fly LiceHS 4b 55
158Fly Lice - Direct StartE1 5b 1
159Training for EverestHVS 5a 15
160Trundlebum RexS *325
161FootpadHVS 5b 10
162Footpad - Direct StartE1 5b 6
163Big Bad CVS 4c *69
164Ramblin' RoseHS 4b 6
165Ryan's DaughterE2 5c  
166Pull Yourselves OffHVS 5b *9
168Motorway MadnessE3 5c *3
169Tales of the RiverbankE3 5c 2
170The Last ValleyE3 5b 6
171Ego WarriorE1 5b *16
172Run Robert RunE3 5c *8
173Racing DemonE1 5b 1
174Edward the FirstE2 5b *20
175StrathdonE1 5b *44
176Mister StrathdonE2 5b 3
177Double Die HardE3 6a **15
178The BellHVS 5b 4
179YatesHVS 5a 3
180Owl CaponeE2 5b *10
181Winter KillsE3 5c 1
182BritanniaVS 4c 7
183One True PathHVS 5a *16
184PrioryVS 4b 20
185CollaborationVS 4b 2
186GeriatrixHVS 4c 7
187NefariousE4 6b 3
188The Redeemed FinishE5 6b *1
189Gone to TexasE4 6a 1
190Night NurseE1 5b *8
192Parachute (1)HS 4b 131
193TanzaniaHVS 5a 4
194The Empty Days (1)HVS 5a 5
195White Hart (1)VS 4b 28
196Water TortureE2 5b 14
197Bold and NoseyE1 5b 22
198GumshoeHVS 5a 35
199Slidewater Shuffle (1)VS 4b 43
200The Bathroom WindowVS 4b 8
201FlightVS 4b *107
202Flight DeckHVS 5a *41
203Arrow Root (1)VD 187
204FletchVS 4b 11
205Parachute (2)S 4a *41
206Every Day's Like SundayE4 6a 3
207Black HeartE3 5c 3
208Knots in MayE3 5c *4
209Fly on the WallHVS 5a *12
210Just a WallflowerE1 5b 3
211Jack of DiamondsVS 4b 11
212Slidewater Shuffle (2)VS 4b 5
213Mean Mr. MustardHVS 4c 2
214Sinergen (2)HVS 4c 15
215AfterbirthS 4a 24
216SuspicionVS 4b 17
217LocustVD 71
218TemikHS 4a 18
219ChorionE1 5b 5
220EarthboundVD 12
221The Stud Cat from JerseyE2 5b 4
222EmbryoVD 97
223Jilted JohnS 4a *71
224Peace for MargyHVS 5a 7
225BaboonE2 5c 1
226Orang-utanE2 5b 2
227MorkHVS 5a 3
228Crumble CrackHVS 5a 3
229Arrow Root (2)M 33
230The Seven Deadly DwarvesVD *90
231Rootin TootVD 105
232FarewellHS 4b 40
233Broken RootD 47
234Musta BindunVD 60
235WondermashHVS 5a 11
236OtakVS 4b *26
237Busy Hands is Happy HandsHVS 5a *13
238Rite RootD 50
 Climb nameGradex
239Small PotatoesE1 5c 6
240ArachnidE1 5b 29
241OniscusE3 6a 4
242Mr FlexE5 6b *3
243Feel the PinchE2 5c 2
244The JewessE3 5c **9
245Flexi JerkoffE5 6a 2
246Big GirlE1 5b 6
247Dave's DownfallHS 4b 18
248DrunkVS 4c 7
249Leaders of MenHVS 5a 4
250Loony on the LooseVS 4b 7
251Black DandruffHVS 4c 5
253AzoicS 4a 70
254NikabrikD 62
255GMTVS 4a 15
256Cave ArêteHS 4a 16
257Vote ECOVD 3
258Last FlingHS 4a 11
259Tongue In CheekE2 5c 1
260Lickin' The LipE4 6a 1
261Alpenistes Left HandE2 5c *7
262AlpinistesE1 5b 16
263Fate for BreakfastE2 5a 1
264Breakfast in AmericaHS 4b 16
265PorridgeVD 26
266MuesliHVS 5b 5
267LurcherHVS 4c 18
268Time Is ShortE2 5b 14
269Red RackVD 124
270Slanting SlotVS 5a 38
271Dead ChurchillsE2 5b *32
272The Little Red EdgeVD *84
273Needle Rock GullyD 155
274CrypsisVD 16
276MinervaS 4b 31
277Golden SuspenderE2 5c 2
278VertigoS *531
279Petticoat LaneE1 5b 8
280Ten Years OnHVS 5a 5
281WhittVS 4c ***377
282Orange WallHVS 5a **56
283Free RadicalE2 5c **24
284Heart of OakE4 6a **5
285Strong MedicineE4 6a *2
286Two HundredE2 5b *1
288StaircaseVD 43
289BanisterS 64
290Arch WallHVS 4c 52
291Homo ErectusE5 6a 11
292Piggy MaloneE4 6a 37
293Baissé FreussardE6 6b *5
294On the Lip of InsanityE7 6b ***3
295TroglodyteE3 6a *1
296PerimeterHS 4b 46
297Tea on a Rainy DayVD 4a *188
298WeathermanD 40
299A Winters TailD 2
300Midsummer DelayHS 4a 2
301DescenderD 17
302Four SeasonsD 12
303Spring CleanHS 4b 8
304Okay FingersE5 6b *1
305Autumn DreamVS 4c 5
306Autumn's DawnHVS 5a *9
307King of the SwingersE1 5c *1
309SudatoriumS 4a 6
310The Gay RavenE1 5c 7
311Dancer on the WindVS 4c 11
312Nansen CornerS *191
313BookwormVS 4b 49
314Bookworm/BludgeonHVS 5a 20
315BludgeonHVS 5a 5
316ClaptrapVS 4b 19
317Episcopalian ToothpickE1 5a 15
318Nansen CrackS *219
319Presbyterian ToothpickHVS 5a 23
320Mango HighwayE2 5b 24
321Mango ChutneyE2 5c 1
322Kipper CrackVS 4c *59
323DeadlineE3 5c **6
324God KnowsE3 5b 3
325KebboHS 4b *96
326TolkHVS 4c *23
327SalyutE3 5c 3
328She's Lost ControlE2 5b *5
329PredatorHVS 5a 3
330AlbanyHS 4a *97
331SalutationVS 4c 31
332Heart of the TreeE1 5b 2
333Tree RootE1 5a 1
334Caving DirectVS 4b 2
335Fire LighterVS 4c 5
336Scar TrekE5 6a  
337On Bondai BeachE6 6b *1
338Space : The final frontier...E5 6b *1
339Cave RouteE2 5c 8
340Slab Route IIE2 5c 2
341The TripE1 5b **34
342YongonaE3 5b *10
343HeadbangerE1 5b 6
344Blackie BoyHS 4a 11
345Highways Of The SunVS 4c 3
346Roger's RouteVS 4b 2
347Lynda's RouteE1 5b 12
348Sunset ChaserHS 4a 7
349The GrockettE3 5b 2
350SickleHVS 5a *5
351The Book of British TreesS 15
352AngelaHS 4c 13
353PaulHS 4b 1
354Prima GravidaE3 5c *7
355Out The BottleE3 5c 1
356Tiger Cub SpecialVS 5a *43
357Old GringoVS 4b 11
358PistolS 78
359ZymurgyS 38
360Fuck the Royal WeddingVS 4b 1
361ScatologyS 132
362HomoeopathS *219
363LuciferE1 5b 10
364AbacusVS 4c 16
365Tufty Club SpecialHVS 4c 6
366Gripfruit JuiceHS 4b 41
367Rebelious JukeboxHVS 5b 6
368Too Old to Rock 'n' RollE3 6a 9
369Indian Rope TrickHVS 5b 3
370HibernationVD 48
371Catch-22HS 4a 30
372However Ugly Society Becomes, Nature Will Always Be BeautifulE1 5b 4
373NovitiateVD 45
374Andy RandyHS 28
375Looby LooS 20
376Old HandsVD 19
377PlopalotVD 18
378Tarzan's NutsVD 27
379Seth's ClothS 4a 23
380Awopbopalubop AwambamboomVS 4c 3
382Let There Be LightVS 4c 2
383EmeraldVD 65
384Traveller's RestVD *110
385Fat CatE3 6a 1
386Stress ArêteE1 5b *44
387WimpleHS 4b 3
388Is It A Banana?E5 6b *1
389Oomigooli GrooveE1 5b *33
390Snatch-BackE4 6a *2
391Devil DogE3 5c 1
392Clever CatE4 6a 2
393Winky Wanky WallE1 5a 12
394Thin LionE1 5b 2
395Central RouteVD 72
396Mellow YellowE1 5b *9
397Pure GoldE4 6b 2
398Yellow Grip RoadE2 5c *12
399Yellow Grip GrooveE1 5a 5
400Yellow PerilHVS 5a 12
401JulepS 18
402CornergrotD 20
403Farewell to ArmsE1 5b 3
404Moss WallHS 4b 8
405Pot and GlassVS 4c 13
406My Noble Son SethE2 5b **27
407The ScampHVS 5a *16
408RhubarbHS 4b *52
409Red MenaceHVS 5b *6
410Red ShiftVS 4c *14
411Eddie CollinsHS 4b 1
412Dennis the MenaceE2 6a 1
413Burning UpE3 5c 2
414Forbidden ColoursE4 5c *1
415Rainbow WarriorE2 5c **13
416Deep SixE3 5c *2
417Pam's PrideVS 4c **66
418MyxomatosisVS 4c *28
419Return of the GladiatorVS 4c *12
420SagittaS 4b 32
421An Error of JudgementHS 4a 11
422Barry the Whale's Right LegE1 5b 3
423SarcoptesHVS 5b *26
424Launch BerryE1 5b 9
425Joyce's RouteS 4a **147
426No ChargeE1 5c 9
427Charge TransferHVS 5b *20
428Little Big ManHVS 5a 9
429CheHVS 5b 4
431GrubbocksVS 5a 5
432Milky TumE1 5b 7
433Marshall's RetreatHS 4b 13
434Jo's AdvanceE1 5b 5
435Let's Run It Up the Flagpole and See Who Salutes ItHVS 5b 8
436Hold FireE1 5c 3
437Fire at WillHVS 5a 5
438Which One's Will?D 4
439Take CoverD 1
440Take AimD 1
442SweepD 13
443Happy EndingE2 5a 10
444Birthday ArêteHVS 5a *19
445Mister Kerr SirVS 4c 19
446AlabamaVD 35
447Everything's Gone GreenE1 5b 10
448Cotton Club CrackHS 4b 26
449John HollingsworthHVS 4c 8
450MasqueradeVD 54
451Mardi GrasD 61
452The Big EasyHS 4c 58
453Plantation ChimneyD 71
454Southern ComfortVS 4c *39
455Louisiana BelleHS 4b 52
456PlopE3 6a *10
457MississippiD 54
458Baton RougeVS 4b 27
459Mystic MagpieHS 4a 19
460How D'ya Like Them Apples?HVS 5a 12
461IckVS 5a 11
463BabsterVS 5a 3
464The Crab GodHS 4a 1
465The Pylon KingE4 6b **4
466Bwornone 5a 4
467Eeyahnone 4c 5
468Author AlertD 3
469Pants in the HedgerowVS 5a 5
470Super Duper Bad Boy FinishE3 6b 1
471A New LifeE4 6b **2
472Bee AlertHS 4b 4
473Yew CountryE1 5c 5
474A Little RustlingS 8
475FinalityE3 5c *5
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Access notes
To reach SY from Bristol, cross the old Severn Bridge, pass Chepstow on the A48 and take the B4228 through Tutshill and Woodcroft along the top of Wintour's Leap. Continue for 10 miles to Coleford from where SY should be signposted -- watch out for the turning right a short way up the hill that leaves the town, carry on straight

across the Pike House crossroads. In less than a mile, almost opposite the church of Christchurch, there is a small crossroads and then immediately an oblique fork to the left; take this (B4432). After about a mile, after The Rock Inn on your right, there is a well-signed entrance to the main car-parking area to the left (Pay and Display). Note that this car park closes at dusk, so late finishers should seek out alternative parking arrangements just a little bit further up the road on the right.

Access to SY have been painstakingly and patiently negotiated. Note that the areas known as 'Yat Rock' and 'Coldwell Rocks' are now out of bounds for climbers. In previous guides these areas have come under the collective name of 'The Western Cliffs'. Also out of bounds are 'The Seven Sisters' (sometimes called Symmonds Yat West), and in fact all the other outlying limestone crags. This is due to the prescence of rare flora and fauna. Please do consult the guide for the specifics of SY access.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Big Lee

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
As of 26/05/13 there was a female mallard nesting on the pinnacle, so watch where you step!
vertigo714 - 27/May/13

Hi Jay1902, think you might be out of luck with the sport climbing at Symonds, if you look at the routes on the page there are 3 routes with a sport grading, not much help if your after a load of sport or a day out! I'd try Ban-Y-Gor or tintern, some great sport climbing there!! P.s do you work at go outdoors in gloucester??
McKEuan - 16/May/11

Hi, i'm relatively new to climbing, and i'm starting to sport climb outside, are there many sports routes here??
Jay1902 - 03/Mar/11

The Pike House pub has been flattened this week. It's signposted to Ross & Symonds Yat.
morticiaskeeper - 23/Oct/09

The dodgey pillar at the start of "Coruscation" and "Little Roden" has now collapsed leaving a steeper but much more solid start, however, the crucial small wire placement just above has shattered (not linked with the rockfall), subsequently "Coruscation" is now E2 5c and "Little Roden" E3 5c.
The Pylon King - 14/Aug/09

Currently being checked for new C.C. guide due early 2010, lots of routes being cleaned of loose rock and vegetation as well as threads and peg replacement. All bolts are being removed. Check this database for current individual route information.
The Pylon King - 08/Nov/08

Keep in mind that The Russian, graded HVS 5a, is a serious undertaking. It was a notorious sandbag when graded at VS but even at HVS it has seen many falls and at least one recent fatality. Although somewhat polished it is a great route but it requires the knowledge to place small wiress in less than perfect placements while under pressure. The route seduces you to take one or more moves up in the hope of finding a bomber placement that just doesn't materialise. With the right approach it is well enough protected but having led it recently I would have no argument with E1 5a.
poey50 - 29/Aug/08

not so popular with the folks on here but never the less a good place to climb. Lots of intersting features (mud and loose blocks to name a couple!) but worth a visit and certainly very different if you're a grit climber
hereforded - 21/May/07

Stay away from inroductory rocks and far south. Although both have some lovely climbing, these are particularly popular with groups and to say that some of the rock is polished is an understatement! I live near the "yat" and I feel that it's had to many negative comments about the state of the rock i.e loose and dirty holds. There are some awesome climbs there and it definitely has it's own unique personality. Anyone visiting the wye valley should give it a go and a trip to wintours leap is also definitely recommended (but give yourself plenty of time to find your route as it can be a bit tricky).
petercollins - 25/Jul/06

have to say that SY is home to some excellent climbing despite what some people say, my top ten would be...1.RedRoseSpeedway (HVS), high in the grade but well worth it! 2.The Ankh (E2) superb! 3. Stress Arete (E1) 4. Whitt (VS) great for a first trip to the longstone pinnacle. 5. The Russian (HVS) easier than "red rose speedway" 6. Golden Fleece (S) wonderful openbook corner 7. Bookworm (HS) excellent entry moves 8. Snoozin' Suzie (VDiff) easy climbing but great intro to multipitch routes 9. Winky Wanky Wall (E1) Brave the runout for some of the best wall clinbing at the yat 10. Nansen's Corner (S) good for a first lead
AlexP - 28/Dec/02

Worth the trip just for 'The Russian' (HVS 5a? ***) which got my season off to a flying start a couple of years ago.
Will Judge - 04/Nov/02

Symonds Yat has a character all of its own and is particularly suitable for middle grade climbers, with some excellent routes in the range Severe to HVS, although some of the harder routes (within the range of ordinary mortals, not the occasional E6 horror) are challenging and good value as well. Don\'t go on a wet day as the bottom of the crags gets very muddy and slippery, and the crag does take a while to dry (if you want a quick-dry crag in the Wye Valley, go to Wintours Leap, or if it\'s raining go to Wyndcliffe where you can climb dry rock in a downpour!) At the Yat, I recommend Snoozin Susie (V Diff - real nice); Golden Fleece, Salutation (for the top pitch), Kipper Crack (Severe); Peacock, Offspring, The Druid, Whit, Mockingbird, Pam\'s Pride at VS); The Russian, Strathdon, Stress Arete at HVS; E1/E2: The Trip (out there), Rainbow Warrior, Red Rose Speedway (brilliant), The Ankh, Yellow Grip Road. The most unlikely route I\'ve done is The Wasteland - go to the bottom and have a look! There is gear!
Bill Parker - 23/Apr/02