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These details were last updated on 04/Jan/2013

Symonds Yat

Gloucestershire, ENGLAND

Climbs 466 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 108m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
A characterful and adventurous crag with a bit of a misinformed negative reputation. Very good steep and juggy limestone which is often much better than it first appears, mainly sound but with occasional looseness in places, so always take care. One of the major climbable areas in the Wye Valley, in an idyllic setting, a great variety in rock features, including a pinnacle and caves, a good spread of routes across the grade range and the bonus of parking and a tea shack at the top!! Some real classic routes and always a quiet esoteric corner to explore. Mainly single-pitch routes 10m up to 30 metres plus some longer two pitch routes spread around the place. Protection tends to be solid but can be spaced with sometimes bold starts. SY has had a reputation for sandbag grades, but this is now a thing of the past (See current 2010 CC guide). Because of the tree cover and steepness of the rock, most of the crag remains dry after long spells of rain in the Summer, although the paths below become extremely muddy under foot.

A recent overhaul and reappraisal has been carried out for the excellent new Climber's Club definitive guide (2010)

Access notes
To reach SY from Bristol, cross the old Severn Bridge, pass Chepstow on the A48 and take the B4228 through Tutshill and Woodcroft along the top of Wintour's Leap. Continue for 10 miles to Coleford from where SY should be signposted -- watch out for the turning right a short way up the hill that leaves the town, carry on straight

across the Pike House crossroads. In less than a mile, almost opposite the church of Christchurch, there is a small crossroads and then immediately an oblique fork to the left; take this (B4432). After about a mile, after The Rock Inn on your right, there is a well-signed entrance to the main car-parking area to the left (Pay and Display). Note that this car park closes at dusk, so late finishers should seek out alternative parking arrangements just a little bit further up the road on the right.

Access to SY have been painstakingly and patiently negotiated. Note that the areas known as 'Yat Rock' and 'Coldwell Rocks' are now out of bounds for climbers. In previous guides these areas have come under the collective name of 'The Western Cliffs'. Also out of bounds are 'The Seven Sisters' (sometimes called Symmonds Yat West), and in fact all the other outlying limestone crags. This is due to the prescence of rare flora and fauna. Please do consult the guide for the specifics of SY access.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

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0.0mm rain
19 °C
19 kph

2.0mm rain
Sunny periods
20 °C
16 kph

15.2mm rain
20 °C
12 kph

5.9mm rain
21 °C
8 kph

2.3mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
16 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Symonds Yat (2010)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Fin-ishVS 4b 20
3SoderamaVD 70
4GarlicD 126
5Babies Making ChoicesHS 4b 26
6B-B-B-BoonVS 4c 41
7GibbonHS 4b 126
8DwarfHS 4b 86
9Funky GibbonHS 4c 129
10Funky DungHVS 5b 39
11StumperVD 179
12Hedgehog SandwichS 4a 114
13Derek, The Flightless HedgehogHVS 5a 57
14Cave WallVD 173
15Jackal's ArêteHS 4b 93
16Jackal's WallE1 5b 20
17Jackal's GullyD 186
18Hi Ena! ArêteHVS 5a 21
19Victor CrackS 4a 146
20Fetid Dingo's KidneysE1 5a 18
21SnitchHVS 4c 57
22SnatchHVS 5a 29
23TwitchHVS 4c 20
24BorderlineE3 5c 5
25Quick TickE4 6a 10
26Slick TrickE5 6a 7
27Up the NeckE3 5c 17
28The BulgerHVS 4c 29
29Slavers of the SlobsHVS 4c 7
30WandererD 48
31CrikeyVD 50
32ProblematicE1 6a 4
33Overhanging VeeVD 19
34Free The Severn SistersE1 5a 11
35Pre-AmbleVD 77
36AmblerS 4a *245
37KrakatoaHVS 5b 28
38VesuviusE2 5b 26
39SuckerE4 5c 7
40CoruscationE2 5b 10
41Little RodenE3 5c 9
42EtnaHS 4a *149
43Blood BrotherHS 4a 55
44Odd-BodHS 4a 25
45Odd-JobS 4a 14
46Sentry SlabS 4a 18
47SentinelS 4a 37
48BlackheadHS 4a 13
49Gnome's GroanE1 5b 8
50Goblin's GrumbleVS 4c 32
51Pylon's PlaintE1 5b 2
52Leprechaun's LamentE2 5c 9
53AquariusE5 6a 2
54Modern ManE3 6a *6
55The Promised LandE5 6a 2
56Milk and HoneyE5 6a 2
57AgoraphobiaE1 5b *28
58Agoraphobia Direct StartE5 6a 2
59Mind GamesE4 5c *8
60Brain StrainE3 5c *6
61The CasbahE2 5c 7
62The Bizarre StartE3 6b 1
63PowerthrillE3 6a *1
64Psych-upE5 6b *1
65Isobel's WallE2 5c 2
66Sludge PumpD 4
67A Few Awkward SpotsE3 5c  
69Long ManHVS 5a 10
70Senior MomentE5 6a 3
71Matchstick ManHVS 5a *56
72DeepeeE6 6a *5
73Fat ManHVS 5a 19
74Crack and SlabVD 137
75RecallD 22
76RecollectionD 51
77CascadeHS 4b 52
78Brief EncounterHS 4b 5
79Thirty Thousand PecesHS 4b  
80Bull in a GatewayHS 4b 15
81Root RouteD 78
82Route Right of Root RouteVD 4
83Lego PensionerE1 5c 31
84Meccano KidE1 5c 27
85MagicE2 5c 6
86Snoozin' SuzieVD **981
87A Right Carry OnHS 4b *163
88Suzie JewelHS 4a 5
89Jewel in the CrownE2 5a 2
90Too Loose for the Shrieking GooseE3 5c 3
91HeroesE2 5b 2
92Biblin WallHVS 5b *14
93High JackE1 5b 1
94Take Fewer PuffsE2 5c 1
95The NavvyE1 5b 3
96CrunchE4 6a 2
97Looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesE2 5c  
98Absent FriendsE2 5b 3
99PhizzogHVS 5a *25
100Diamond GrooveVS 4c *19
101Rough DiamondHVS 5a 5
102Direct FinishE1 5b  
103The BeakE2 5b *18
104Scooby DooHVS 5a *40
105The RussianHVS 5a **277
106White OrchidE5 6a 2
107MonsterificE2 5c 7
108Christmas CarrollsE2 5b  
109MockingbirdHVS 4c *38
110Newcastle ArmsHVS 4c 3
111Red Rose SpeedwayHVS 5a ***307
112Dont Fear The ReaperE4 6a *2
113Lord of the DanceHVS 5b 3
114Big DaddyE5 6b 3
115OffspringVS 4c *174
116The WastelandE3 6a *21
117ApologiesE4 6a *2
118Too Freaked to SpeakE4 6a 6
119The AnkhE2 5c **73
120White LieE3 5c 1
121TerminatorE5 6b 2
122Black TulipE4 6a **7
123SuicideE4 6a 1
124ThrillerE4 6a 3
125Fortune Favours the BraveE4 6a **4
126King CrabE3 6a *9
127Hole in the WallHVS 5a *126
128Where Have All the Flowers Gone?E1 5b 13
129The Penny DroppedE2 5c *29
130SwedenE3 5c **13
131PeacockVS 4b *244
132YorkerHVS 4c 7
133GrobblerVS 4c 41
134ArgonautVS 4b 52
135Golden FleeceHS 4b **1014
136Golden Fleece - Left-Hand FinishS 4a *34
137Never Trust a Smiling CatE2 5c *53
138The DruidVS 4c **360
139The StaffE1 5b 45
140ExchangeVS 4b *584
141Track ShoeHS 4b 54
142TransformerHS 4b 11
143Transformer - Direct StartE1 5c 2
144Yat ChimneyD 21
145Liver And OnionsVD 45
146Flying MachineVD 85
147CracktitHS 4b 12
148Happy BirthdayVD 3
149A Story Like the WindE2 5c  
150Boar in the WoodsVS 4b 5
151ChevronHVS 5a 7
152Tony Didn't Done ThisE1 5a 4
153Oh! Yes He DidE3 5c 6
154English Country GardenHVS 5a *38
155Green Grow the Grollies Oh!VS 4c *126
156Past PurpleVS 4c 36
157Fly LiceHS 4b 60
158Fly Lice - Direct StartE1 5b 1
159Training for EverestHVS 5a 15
160Trundlebum RexS *359
161FootpadHVS 5b 13
162Footpad - Direct StartE1 5b 6
163Big Bad CVS 4c *77
164Ramblin' RoseHS 4b 7
165Ryan's DaughterE2 5c  
166Pull Yourselves OffHVS 5b *9
168Motorway MadnessE3 5c *3
169Tales of the RiverbankE3 5c 2
170The Last ValleyE3 5b 6
171Ego WarriorE1 5b *21
172Run Robert RunE3 5c *8
173Racing DemonE1 5b 1
174Edward the FirstE2 5b *21
175StrathdonE1 5b *50
176Mister StrathdonE2 5b 3
177Double Die HardE3 6a **18
178The BellHVS 5b 4
179YatesHVS 5a 3
180Owl CaponeE2 5b *11
181Winter KillsE3 5c 1
182BritanniaVS 4c 8
183One True PathHVS 5a *17
184PrioryVS 4b 20
185CollaborationVS 4b 2
186GeriatrixHVS 4c 7
187NefariousE4 6b 3
188The Redeemed FinishE5 6b *1
189Gone to TexasE4 6a 1
190Night NurseE1 5b *8
192Parachute (1)HS 4b 141
193TanzaniaHVS 5a 4
194The Empty Days (1)HVS 5a 6
195White Hart (1)VS 4b 34
196Water TortureE2 5b 18
197Bold and NoseyE1 5b 32
198GumshoeHVS 5a 46
199Slidewater Shuffle (1)VS 4b 44
200The Bathroom WindowVS 4b 8
201FlightVS 4b *115
202Flight DeckHVS 5a *51
203Arrow Root (1)VD 200
204FletchVS 4b 11
205Parachute (2)S 4a *51
206Every Day's Like SundayE4 6a 3
207White Heart (2)HVS 5b **3
208Black HeartE3 5c 3
209Knots in MayE3 5c *4
210Fly on the WallHVS 5a *16
211Just a WallflowerE1 5b 3
212Jack of DiamondsVS 4b 11
213Slidewater Shuffle (2)VS 4b 5
214Mean Mr. MustardHVS 4c 2
215Sinergen (2)HVS 4c 17
216AfterbirthS 4a 27
217SuspicionVS 4b 18
218LocustVD 75
219TemikHS 4a 18
220ChorionE1 5b 5
221EarthboundVD 12
222The Stud Cat from JerseyE2 5b 4
223EmbryoVD 100
224Jilted JohnS 4a *73
225Peace for MargyHVS 5a 9
226BaboonE2 5c 1
227Orang-utanE2 5b 2
228MorkHVS 5a 3
229Crumble CrackHVS 5a 3
230Arrow Root (2)M 37
231The Seven Deadly DwarvesVD *102
232Rootin TootVD 120
233FarewellHS 4b 45
234Broken RootD 57
235Musta BindunVD 67
236WondermashHVS 5a 14
237OtakVS 4b *28
238Busy Hands is Happy HandsHVS 5a *16
239Rite RootD 56
 Climb nameGradex
240Small PotatoesE1 5c 6
241ArachnidE1 5b 30
242OniscusE3 6a 4
243Mr FlexE5 6b *3
244Feel the PinchE2 5c 2
245The JewessE3 5c **9
246Flexi JerkoffE5 6a 2
247Big GirlE1 5b 7
248Dave's DownfallHS 4b 19
249DrunkVS 4c 8
250Leaders of MenHVS 5a 4
251Loony on the LooseVS 4b 7
252Black DandruffHVS 4c 7
254AzoicS 4a 79
255NikabrikD 64
256GMTVS 4a 15
257Cave ArêteHS 4a 17
258Vote ECOVD 3
259Last FlingHS 4a 13
260Tongue In CheekE2 5c 1
261Lickin' The LipE4 6a 2
262Alpenistes Left HandE2 5c *7
263AlpinistesE1 5b 16
264Fate for BreakfastE2 5a 2
265Breakfast in AmericaHS 4b 18
266PorridgeVD 31
267MuesliHVS 5b 6
268LurcherHVS 4c 21
269Time Is ShortE2 5b 14
270Red RackVD 140
271Slanting SlotVS 5a 48
272Dead ChurchillsE2 5b *33
273The Little Red EdgeVD *96
274Needle Rock GullyD 171
275CrypsisVD 17
277MinervaS 4b 36
278Golden SuspenderE2 5c 2
279VertigoS *591
280Petticoat LaneE1 5b 10
281Ten Years OnHVS 5a 7
282WhittVS 4c ***423
283Orange WallHVS 5a **68
284Free RadicalE2 5c **29
285Heart of OakE4 6a **5
286Strong MedicineE4 6a *2
287Two HundredE2 5b *2
289StaircaseVD 49
290BanisterS 67
291Arch WallHVS 4c 56
292Homo ErectusE5 6a 11
293Piggy MaloneE4 6a 42
294Baissé FreussardE6 6b *5
295On the Lip of InsanityE7 6b ***3
296TroglodyteE3 6a *2
297PerimeterHS 4b 49
298Tea on a Rainy DayVD 4a *195
299WeathermanD 42
300A Winters TailD 2
301Midsummer DelayHS 4a 2
302DescenderD 19
303Four SeasonsD 13
304Spring CleanHS 4b 8
305Okay FingersE5 6b *1
306Autumn DreamVS 4c 6
307Autumn's DawnHVS 5a *10
308King of the SwingersE1 5c *2
310SudatoriumS 4a 9
311The Gay RavenE1 5c 7
312Dancer on the WindVS 4c 14
313Nansen CornerS *203
314BookwormVS 4b 49
315Bookworm/BludgeonHVS 5a 21
316BludgeonHVS 5a 5
317ClaptrapVS 4b 20
318Episcopalian ToothpickE1 5a 17
319Nansen CrackS *234
320Presbyterian ToothpickHVS 5a 26
321Mango HighwayE2 5b 30
322Mango ChutneyE2 5c 2
323Kipper CrackVS 4c *63
324DeadlineE3 5c **7
325God KnowsE3 5b 3
326KebboHS 4b *106
327TolkHVS 4c *24
328SalyutE3 5c 3
329She's Lost ControlE2 5b *5
330PredatorHVS 5a 3
331AlbanyHS 4a *111
332SalutationVS 4c 33
333Heart of the TreeE1 5b 2
334Tree RootE1 5a 1
335Caving DirectVS 4b 2
336Fire LighterVS 4c 6
337Scar TrekE5 6a  
338On Bondai BeachE6 6b *1
339Space : The final frontier...E5 6b *1
340Cave RouteE2 5c 10
341Slab Route IIE2 5c 2
342The TripE1 5b **38
343YongonaE3 5b *11
344HeadbangerE1 5b 9
345Blackie BoyHS 4a 11
346Highways Of The SunVS 4c 3
347Roger's RouteVS 4b 2
348Lynda's RouteE1 5b 14
349Sunset ChaserHS 4a 7
350The GrockettE3 5b 2
351SickleHVS 5a *5
352The Book of British TreesS 17
353AngelaHS 4c 15
354PaulHS 4b 1
355Prima GravidaE3 5c *7
356Out The BottleE3 5c 1
357Tiger Cub SpecialVS 5a *48
358Old GringoVS 4b 12
359PistolS 84
360ZymurgyS 46
361Fuck the Royal WeddingVS 4b 1
362ScatologyS 140
363HomoeopathS *233
364LuciferE1 5b 10
365AbacusVS 4c 17
366Tufty Club SpecialHVS 4c 6
367Gripfruit JuiceHS 4b 48
368Rebelious JukeboxHVS 5b 6
369Too Old to Rock 'n' RollE3 6a 9
370Indian Rope TrickHVS 5b 3
371HibernationVD 53
372Catch-22HS 4a 35
373However Ugly Society Becomes, Nature Will Always Be BeautifulE1 5b 5
374NovitiateVD 47
375Andy RandyHS 29
376Looby LooS 20
377Old HandsVD 20
378PlopalotVD 18
379Tarzan's NutsVD 28
380Seth's ClothS 4a 25
381Awopbopalubop AwambamboomVS 4c 3
383Let There Be LightVS 4c 2
384EmeraldVD 67
385Traveller's RestVD *119
386Fat CatE3 6a 1
387Stress ArêteE1 5b *51
388WimpleHS 4b 3
389Is It A Banana?E5 6b *1
390Oomigooli GrooveE1 5b *38
391Snatch-BackE4 6a *2
392Devil DogE3 5c 1
393Clever CatE4 6a 2
394Winky Wanky WallE1 5a 13
395Thin LionE1 5b 3
396Central RouteVD 79
397Mellow YellowE1 5b *9
398Pure GoldE4 6b 2
399Yellow Grip RoadE2 5c *13
400Yellow Grip GrooveE1 5a 5
401Yellow PerilHVS 5a 12
402JulepS 18
403CornergrotD 20
404Farewell to ArmsE1 5b 4
405Moss WallHS 4b 8
406Pot and GlassVS 4c 13
407My Noble Son SethE2 5b **30
408The ScampHVS 5a *19
409RhubarbHS 4b *62
410Red MenaceHVS 5b *9
411Red ShiftVS 4c *15
412Eddie CollinsHS 4b 1
413Dennis the MenaceE2 6a 1
414Burning UpE3 5c 2
415Forbidden ColoursE4 5c *1
416Rainbow WarriorE2 5c **13
417Deep SixE3 5c *2
418Pam's PrideVS 4c **71
419MyxomatosisVS 4c *29
420Return of the GladiatorVS 4c *14
421SagittaS 4b 35
422An Error of JudgementHS 4a 11
423Barry the Whale's Right LegE1 5b 4
424SarcoptesHVS 5b *32
425Launch BerryE1 5b 9
426Joyce's RouteS 4a **171
427No ChargeE1 5c 13
428Charge TransferHVS 5b *21
429Little Big ManHVS 5a 10
430CheHVS 5b 4
432The Light BrigadeVD 1
433GrubbocksVS 5a 5
434Milky TumE1 5b 7
435Marshall's RetreatHS 4b 16
436Jo's AdvanceE1 5b 5
437Let's Run It Up the Flagpole and See Who Salutes ItHVS 5b 8
438Hold FireE1 5c 3
439Fire at WillHVS 5a 6
440Which One's Will?D 8
441Take CoverD 2
442Take AimD 3
444SweepD 13
445Happy EndingE2 5a 11
446Birthday ArêteHVS 5a *20
447Mister Kerr SirVS 4c 21
448AlabamaVD 35
449Everything's Gone GreenE1 5b 11
450Cotton Club CrackHS 4b 29
451John HollingsworthHVS 4c 9
452MasqueradeVD 57
453Mardi GrasD 67
454The Big EasyHS 4c 67
455Plantation ChimneyD 80
456Southern ComfortVS 4c *45
457Louisiana BelleHS 4b 62
458PlopE3 6a *10
459MississippiD 63
460Baton RougeVS 4b 28
461Mystic MagpieHS 4a 19
462How D'ya Like Them Apples?HVS 5a 12
463IckVS 5a 12
465BabsterVS 5a 3
466The Crab GodHS 4a 1
467The Pylon KingE4 6b **4
468Bwornone 5a 4
469Eeyahnone 4c 5
470Author AlertD 3
471Pants in the HedgerowVS 5a 5
472Super Duper Bad Boy FinishE3 6b 1
473A New LifeE4 6b **4
474Bee AlertHS 4b 4
475Yew CountryE1 5c 5
476A Little RustlingS 8
477FinalityE3 5c *5
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HS 4b routes r bloody hard here so be carefull.
mrdigitaljedi - 13/Jul/14

17th May - Blackbirds nesting about two-thirds up Nansen Crack. On 5 eggs. Please take care or avoid. Should fledge within a month or so.
Rob Morgan - 17/May/14

As of 26/05/13 there was a female mallard nesting on the pinnacle, so watch where you step!
vertigo714 - 27/May/13

Hi Jay1902, think you might be out of luck with the sport climbing at Symonds, if you look at the routes on the page there are 3 routes with a sport grading, not much help if your after a load of sport or a day out! I'd try Ban-Y-Gor or tintern, some great sport climbing there!! P.s do you work at go outdoors in gloucester??
McKEuan - 16/May/11

Hi, i'm relatively new to climbing, and i'm starting to sport climb outside, are there many sports routes here??
Jay1902 - 03/Mar/11

The Pike House pub has been flattened this week. It's signposted to Ross & Symonds Yat.
morticiaskeeper - 23/Oct/09

The dodgey pillar at the start of "Coruscation" and "Little Roden" has now collapsed leaving a steeper but much more solid start, however, the crucial small wire placement just above has shattered (not linked with the rockfall), subsequently "Coruscation" is now E2 5c and "Little Roden" E3 5c.
The Pylon King - 14/Aug/09

Currently being checked for new C.C. guide due early 2010, lots of routes being cleaned of loose rock and vegetation as well as threads and peg replacement. All bolts are being removed. Check this database for current individual route information.
The Pylon King - 08/Nov/08

Keep in mind that The Russian, graded HVS 5a, is a serious undertaking. It was a notorious sandbag when graded at VS but even at HVS it has seen many falls and at least one recent fatality. Although somewhat polished it is a great route but it requires the knowledge to place small wiress in less than perfect placements while under pressure. The route seduces you to take one or more moves up in the hope of finding a bomber placement that just doesn't materialise. With the right approach it is well enough protected but having led it recently I would have no argument with E1 5a.
poey50 - 29/Aug/08

not so popular with the folks on here but never the less a good place to climb. Lots of intersting features (mud and loose blocks to name a couple!) but worth a visit and certainly very different if you're a grit climber
hereforded - 21/May/07

Stay away from inroductory rocks and far south. Although both have some lovely climbing, these are particularly popular with groups and to say that some of the rock is polished is an understatement! I live near the "yat" and I feel that it's had to many negative comments about the state of the rock i.e loose and dirty holds. There are some awesome climbs there and it definitely has it's own unique personality. Anyone visiting the wye valley should give it a go and a trip to wintours leap is also definitely recommended (but give yourself plenty of time to find your route as it can be a bit tricky).
petercollins - 25/Jul/06

have to say that SY is home to some excellent climbing despite what some people say, my top ten would be...1.RedRoseSpeedway (HVS), high in the grade but well worth it! 2.The Ankh (E2) superb! 3. Stress Arete (E1) 4. Whitt (VS) great for a first trip to the longstone pinnacle. 5. The Russian (HVS) easier than "red rose speedway" 6. Golden Fleece (S) wonderful openbook corner 7. Bookworm (HS) excellent entry moves 8. Snoozin' Suzie (VDiff) easy climbing but great intro to multipitch routes 9. Winky Wanky Wall (E1) Brave the runout for some of the best wall clinbing at the yat 10. Nansen's Corner (S) good for a first lead
AlexP - 28/Dec/02

Worth the trip just for 'The Russian' (HVS 5a? ***) which got my season off to a flying start a couple of years ago.
Will Judge - 04/Nov/02

Symonds Yat has a character all of its own and is particularly suitable for middle grade climbers, with some excellent routes in the range Severe to HVS, although some of the harder routes (within the range of ordinary mortals, not the occasional E6 horror) are challenging and good value as well. Don\'t go on a wet day as the bottom of the crags gets very muddy and slippery, and the crag does take a while to dry (if you want a quick-dry crag in the Wye Valley, go to Wintours Leap, or if it\'s raining go to Wyndcliffe where you can climb dry rock in a downpour!) At the Yat, I recommend Snoozin Susie (V Diff - real nice); Golden Fleece, Salutation (for the top pitch), Kipper Crack (Severe); Peacock, Offspring, The Druid, Whit, Mockingbird, Pam\'s Pride at VS); The Russian, Strathdon, Stress Arete at HVS; E1/E2: The Trip (out there), Rainbow Warrior, Red Rose Speedway (brilliant), The Ankh, Yellow Grip Road. The most unlikely route I\'ve done is The Wasteland - go to the bottom and have a look! There is gear!
Bill Parker - 23/Apr/02