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These details were last updated on 04/Jan/2013

Symonds Yat

Gloucestershire, ENGLAND

Climbs 463 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 108m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
A characterful and adventurous crag with a bit of a misinformed negative reputation. Very good steep and juggy limestone which is often much better than it first appears, mainly sound but with occasional looseness in places, so always take care. One of the major climbable areas in the Wye Valley, in an idyllic setting, a great variety in rock features, including a pinnacle and caves, a good spread of routes across the grade range and the bonus of parking and a tea shack at the top!! Some real classic routes and always a quiet esoteric corner to explore. Mainly single-pitch routes 10m up to 30 metres plus some longer two pitch routes spread around the place. Protection tends to be solid but can be spaced with sometimes bold starts. SY has had a reputation for sandbag grades, but this is now a thing of the past (See current 2010 CC guide). Because of the tree cover and steepness of the rock, most of the crag remains dry after long spells of rain in the Summer, although the paths below become extremely muddy under foot.

A recent overhaul and reappraisal has been carried out for the excellent new Climber's Club definitive guide (2010)

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Guidebooks
Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Symonds Yat (2010)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE INTRODUCTORY ROCKS  
2Fin-ishVS 4b 19
3SoderamaVD 56
4GarlicD 100
5Babies Making ChoicesHS 4b 23
6B-B-B-BoonVS 4c 33
7GibbonHS 4b 110
8DwarfHS 4b 73
9Funky GibbonHS 4c 108
10Funky DungHVS 5b 34
11StumperVD 141
12Hedgehog SandwichS 4a 89
13Derek, The Flightless HedgehogHVS 5a 48
14Cave WallVD 138
15Jackal's ArêteHS 4b 75
16Jackal's WallE1 5b 18
17Jackal's GullyD 151
18Hi Ena! ArêteHVS 5a 19
19Victor CrackS 4a 118
20Fetid Dingo's KidneysE1 5a 17
21SnitchHVS 4c 49
22SnatchHVS 5a 27
23TwitchHVS 4c 19
24BorderlineE3 5c 5
25Quick TickE4 6a 8
26Slick TrickE5 6a 5
27Up the NeckE3 5c 16
28The BulgerHVS 4c 25
29Slavers of the SlobsHVS 4c 6
30WandererD 34
31CrikeyVD 40
32ProblematicE1 6a 3
33Overhanging VeeVD 18
34Free The Severn SistersE1 5a 9
35Pre-AmbleVD 59
36AmblerS 4a *198
37KrakatoaHVS 5b 19
38VesuviusE2 5b 21
39SuckerE4 5c 7
40CoruscationE2 5b 9
41Little RodenE3 5c 9
42EtnaHS 4a *122
43Blood BrotherHS 4a 47
44Odd-BodHS 4a 21
45Odd-JobS 4a 12
46Sentry SlabS 4a 16
47SentinelS 4a 32
48BlackheadHS 4a 11
49Gnome's GroanE1 5b 8
50Goblin's GrumbleVS 4c 24
51Pylon's PlaintE1 5b 2
52Leprechaun's LamentE2 5c 9
53AquariusE5 6a 1
54Modern ManE3 6a *5
55The Promised LandE5 6a 1
56Milk and HoneyE5 6a 1
57AgoraphobiaE1 5b *21
58Agoraphobia Direct StartE5 6a 1
59Mind GamesE4 5c *5
60Brain StrainE3 5c *5
61The CasbahE2 5c 6
62The Bizarre StartE3 6b 1
63PowerthrillE3 6a *1
64Psych-upE5 6b *1
65Isobel's WallE2 5c 2
66Sludge PumpD 4
67A Few Awkward SpotsE3 5c  
 HOLLOW ROCK AREA  
69Long ManHVS 5a 6
70Senior MomentE5 6a 3
71Matchstick ManHVS 5a *45
72DeepeeE6 6a *5
73Fat ManHVS 5a 15
74Crack and SlabVD 114
75RecallD 13
76RecollectionD 38
77CascadeHS 4b 44
78Brief EncounterHS 4b 5
79Thirty Thousand PecesHS 4b  
80Bull in a GatewayHS 4b 12
81Root RouteD 58
82Route Right of Root RouteVD 4
83Lego PensionerE1 5c 30
84Meccano KidE1 5c 21
85MagicE2 5c 5
86Snoozin' SuzieVD **764
87A Right Carry OnHS 4b *119
88Suzie JewelHS 4a 5
89Jewel in the CrownE2 5a 2
90Too Loose for the Shrieking GooseE3 5c 3
91HeroesE2 5b 2
92Biblin WallHVS 5b *12
93High JackE1 5b 1
94Take Fewer PuffsE2 5c  
95The NavvyE1 5b 3
96CrunchE4 6a 2
97Looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesE2 5c  
98Absent FriendsE2 5b 3
99PhizzogHVS 5a *17
100Diamond GrooveVS 4c *15
101Rough DiamondHVS 5a 5
102Direct FinishE1 5b  
103The BeakE2 5b *12
104Scooby DooHVS 5a *21
105The RussianHVS 5a **206
106White OrchidE5 6a 2
107MonsterificE2 5c 5
108Christmas CarrollsE2 5b  
109MockingbirdHVS 4c *30
110Newcastle ArmsHVS 4c 3
111Red Rose SpeedwayHVS 5a ***225
112Dont Fear The ReaperE4 6a *2
113Lord of the DanceHVS 5b 2
114Big DaddyE5 6b 2
115OffspringVS 4c *132
116The WastelandE3 6a *19
117ApologiesE4 6a *1
118Too Freaked to SpeakE4 6a 5
119The AnkhE2 5c **53
120White LieE3 5c  
121TerminatorE5 6b 1
122Black TulipE4 6a **5
123SuicideE4 6a 1
124ThrillerE4 6a 2
125Fortune Favours the BraveE4 6a **3
126King CrabE3 6a *7
127Hole in the WallHVS 5a *87
128Where Have All the Flowers Gone?E1 5b 11
129The Penny DroppedE2 5c *20
130SwedenE3 5c **9
131PeacockVS 4b *187
132YorkerHVS 4c 5
133GrobblerVS 4c 35
134ArgonautVS 4b 44
135Golden FleeceHS 4b **826
136Golden Fleece - Left-Hand FinishS 4a *1
137Never Trust a Smiling CatE2 5c *40
138The DruidVS 4c **259
139The StaffE1 5b 31
140ExchangeVS 4b *450
141Track ShoeHS 4b 53
142TransformerHS 4b 8
143Transformer - Direct StartE1 5c 2
144Yat ChimneyD 16
145Liver And OnionsVD 37
146Flying MachineVD 69
147CracktitHS 4b 12
148Happy BirthdayVD 2
149A Story Like the WindE2 5c  
150Boar in the WoodsVS 4b 4
151ChevronHVS 5a 6
152Tony Didn't Done ThisE1 5a 4
153Oh! Yes He DidE3 5c 6
154English Country GardenHVS 5a *28
155Green Grow the Grollies Oh!VS 4c *99
156Past PurpleVS 4c 32
157Fly LiceHS 4b 49
158Fly Lice - Direct StartE1 5b 1
159Training for EverestHVS 5a 14
160Trundlebum RexS *276
161FootpadHVS 5b 6
162Footpad - Direct StartE1 5b 4
163Big Bad CVS 4c *52
164Ramblin' RoseHS 4b 6
165Ryan's DaughterE2 5c  
166Pull Yourselves OffHVS 5b *4
 THE WHITE WALL  
168Motorway MadnessE3 5c *2
169Tales of the RiverbankE3 5c 1
170The Last ValleyE3 5b 3
171Ego WarriorE1 5b *13
172Run Robert RunE3 5c *7
173Edward the FirstE2 5b *17
174StrathdonE1 5b *34
175Mister StrathdonE2 5b 1
176Double Die HardE3 6a **14
177The BellHVS 5b 3
178YatesHVS 5a 1
179Owl CaponeE2 5b *10
180BritanniaVS 4c 6
181One True PathHVS 5a *13
182PrioryVS 4b 18
183GeriatrixHVS 4c 5
184NefariousE4 6b 1
185The Redeemed FinishE5 6b *1
186Night NurseE1 5b *5
 THE WATERPIPE BAY  
188Parachute (1)HS 4b 117
189TanzaniaHVS 5a 2
190The Empty Days (1)HVS 5a 2
191White Hart (1)VS 4b 25
192Water TortureE2 5b 11
193Bold and NoseyE1 5b 15
194GumshoeHVS 5a 28
195Slidewater Shuffle (1)VS 4b 35
196The Bathroom WindowVS 4b 7
197FlightVS 4b *87
198Flight DeckHVS 5a *31
199Arrow Root (1)VD 150
200FletchVS 4b 9
201Parachute (2)S 4a *24
202Every Day's Like SundayE4 6a 2
203Black HeartE3 5c 2
204Knots in MayE3 5c *3
205Fly on the WallHVS 5a *8
206Just a WallflowerE1 5b 2
207Jack of DiamondsVS 4b 10
208Slidewater Shuffle (2)VS 4b 1
209Mean Mr. MustardHVS 4c 2
210Sinergen (2)HVS 4c 14
211AfterbirthS 4a 20
212SuspicionVS 4b 14
213LocustVD 60
214TemikHS 4a 15
215ChorionE1 5b 4
216EarthboundVD 10
217The Stud Cat from JerseyE2 5b 4
218EmbryoVD 70
219Jilted JohnS 4a *51
220Peace for MargyHVS 5a 4
221BaboonE2 5c 1
222Orang-utanE2 5b 1
223MorkHVS 5a 3
224Crumble CrackHVS 5a 3
225Arrow Root (2)M 17
226The Seven Deadly DwarvesVD *64
227Rootin TootVD 87
228FarewellHS 4b 34
229Broken RootD 38
230Musta BindunVD 43
231WondermashHVS 5a 8
232OtakVS 4b *18
233Busy Hands is Happy HandsHVS 5a *9
234Rite RootD 41
235Small PotatoesE1 5c 4
 Climb nameGradex
236ArachnidE1 5b 16
237OniscusE3 6a 4
238Mr FlexE5 6b *3
239Feel the PinchE2 5c 2
240The JewessE3 5c **8
241Flexi JerkoffE5 6a 2
242Big GirlE1 5b 4
243Dave's DownfallHS 4b 16
244DrunkVS 4c 5
245Leaders of MenHVS 5a 3
246Loony on the LooseVS 4b 6
247Black DandruffHVS 4c 4
 THE LONG STONE AREA  
249AzoicS 4a 60
250NikabrikD 51
251GMTVS 4a 11
252Cave ArêteHS 4a 13
253Vote ECOVD 1
254Last FlingHS 4a 8
255Tongue In CheekE2 5c 1
256Lickin' The LipE4 6a 1
257Alpenistes Left HandE2 5c *4
258AlpinistesE1 5b 15
259Fate for BreakfastE2 5a 1
260Breakfast in AmericaHS 4b 14
261PorridgeVD 21
262MuesliHVS 5b 3
263LurcherHVS 4c 16
264Time Is ShortE2 5b 12
265Red RackVD 98
266Slanting SlotVS 5a 28
267Dead ChurchillsE2 5b *24
268The Little Red EdgeVD *63
269Needle Rock GullyD 124
270CrypsisVD 15
 LONGSTONE PINNACLE  
272MinervaS 4b 20
273Golden SuspenderE2 5c 2
274VertigoS *455
275Petticoat LaneE1 5b 8
276Ten Years OnHVS 5a 4
277WhittVS 4c ***287
278Orange WallHVS 5a **34
279Free RadicalE2 5c **19
280Heart of OakE4 6a **5
281Strong MedicineE4 6a *2
282Two HundredE2 5b *1
 INSANITY CAVE  
284StaircaseVD 38
285BanisterS 56
286Arch WallHVS 4c 44
287Homo ErectusE5 6a 11
288Piggy MaloneE4 6a 30
289Baissé FreussardE6 6b *2
290On the Lip of InsanityE7 6b ***3
291TroglodyteE3 6a *1
292PerimeterHS 4b 42
293Tea on a Rainy DayVD 4a *157
294WeathermanD 28
295A Winters TailD 2
296Midsummer DelayHS 4a 2
297DescenderD 15
298Four SeasonsD 12
299Spring CleanHS 4b 8
300Okay FingersE5 6b *1
301Autumn DreamVS 4c 4
302Autumn's DawnHVS 5a *5
303King of the SwingersE1 5c *1
 BOWLERS HOLE AREA  
305SudatoriumS 4a 6
306The Gay RavenE1 5c 5
307Dancer on the WindVS 4c 10
308Nansen CornerS *162
309BookwormVS 4b 49
310Bookworm/BludgeonHVS 5a 19
311BludgeonHVS 5a  
312ClaptrapVS 4b 17
313Episcopalian ToothpickE1 5a 15
314Nansen CrackS *191
315Presbyterian ToothpickHVS 5a 18
316Mango HighwayE2 5b 23
317Mango ChutneyE2 5c 1
318Kipper CrackVS 4c *45
319DeadlineE3 5c **5
320God KnowsE3 5b 3
321KebboHS 4b *85
322TolkHVS 4c *20
323SalyutE3 5c 3
324She's Lost ControlE2 5b *5
325PredatorHVS 5a 3
326AlbanyHS 4a *87
327SalutationVS 4c 24
328Heart of the TreeE1 5b 2
329Tree RootE1 5a 1
330Caving DirectVS 4b 2
331Fire LighterVS 4c 5
332Scar TrekE5 6a  
333On Bondai BeachE6 6b *1
334Space : The final frontier...E5 6b *1
335Cave RouteE2 5c 6
336Slab Route IIE2 5c 2
337The TripE1 5b **23
338YongonaE3 5b *7
339HeadbangerE1 5b 4
340Blackie BoyHS 4a 9
341Highways Of The SunVS 4c 3
342Roger's RouteVS 4b 1
343Lynda's RouteE1 5b 11
344Sunset ChaserHS 4a 7
345The GrockettE3 5b 2
346SickleHVS 5a *4
347The Book of British TreesS 14
348AngelaHS 4c 9
349PaulHS 4b 1
350Prima GravidaE3 5c *6
351Out The BottleE3 5c 1
352Tiger Cub SpecialVS 5a *29
353Old GringoVS 4b 10
354PistolS 72
355ZymurgyS 34
356Fuck the Royal WeddingVS 4b 1
357ScatologyS 114
358HomoeopathS *191
359LuciferE1 5b 9
360AbacusVS 4c 16
361Tufty Club SpecialHVS 4c 6
362Gripfruit JuiceHS 4b 36
363Rebelious JukeboxHVS 5b 3
364Too Old to Rock 'n' RollE3 6a 8
365Indian Rope TrickHVS 5b 3
366HibernationVD 34
367Catch-22HS 4a 23
368However Ugly Society Becomes, Nature Will Always Be BeautifulE1 5b 3
369NovitiateVD 38
370Andy RandyHS 25
371Looby LooS 18
372Old HandsVD 16
373PlopalotVD 14
374Tarzan's NutsVD 24
375Seth's ClothS 4a 18
376Awopbopalubop AwambamboomVS 4c 3
 FAR SOUTH BAY AREA  
378EmeraldVD 53
379Traveller's RestVD *91
380Fat CatE3 6a 1
381Stress ArêteE1 5b *38
382WimpleHS 4b 2
383Is It A Banana?E5 6b *1
384Oomigooli GrooveE1 5b *27
385Snatch-BackE4 6a *2
386Devil DogE3 5c 1
387Clever CatE4 6a 2
388Winky Wanky WallE1 5a 12
389Thin LionE1 5b 2
390Central RouteVD 57
391Mellow YellowE1 5b *8
392Pure GoldE4 6b 1
393Yellow Grip RoadE2 5c *11
394Yellow Grip GrooveE1 5a 5
395Yellow PerilHVS 5a 12
396JulepS 11
397CornergrotD 17
398Farewell to ArmsE1 5b 3
399Moss WallHS 4b 7
400Pot and GlassVS 4c 11
401My Noble Son SethE2 5b **24
402The ScampHVS 5a *16
403RhubarbHS 4b *45
404Red MenaceHVS 5b *5
405Red ShiftVS 4c *11
406Eddie CollinsHS 4b 1
407Dennis the MenaceE2 6a 1
408Burning UpE3 5c 2
409Forbidden ColoursE4 5c *1
410Rainbow WarriorE2 5c **10
411Deep SixE3 5c *2
412Pam's PrideVS 4c **55
413MyxomatosisVS 4c *23
414Return of the GladiatorVS 4c *9
415SagittaS 4b 24
416An Error of JudgementHS 4a 11
417Barry the Whale's Right LegE1 5b 3
418SarcoptesHVS 5b *24
419Launch BerryE1 5b 7
420Joyce's RouteS 4a **120
421No ChargeE1 5c 5
422Charge TransferHVS 5b *16
423Little Big ManHVS 5a 3
424CheHVS 5b 4
 THE CRIMEAN WALL  
426GrubbocksVS 5a 4
427Milky TumE1 5b 6
428Marshall's RetreatHS 4b 9
429Jo's AdvanceE1 5b 5
430Let's Run It Up the Flagpole and See Who Salutes ItHVS 5b 7
431Hold FireE1 5c 3
432Fire at WillHVS 5a 2
433Which One's Will?D 1
434Take CoverD 1
435Take AimD 1
 NEW ORLEANS BUTTRESS  
437SweepD 11
438Happy EndingE2 5a 9
439Birthday ArêteHVS 5a *16
440Mister Kerr SirVS 4c 15
441AlabamaVD 25
442Everything's Gone GreenE1 5b 9
443Cotton Club CrackHS 4b 23
444John HollingsworthHVS 4c 8
445MasqueradeVD 37
446Mardi GrasD 38
447The Big EasyHS 4c 36
448Plantation ChimneyD 51
449Southern ComfortVS 4c *32
450Louisiana BelleHS 4b 39
451PlopE3 6a *6
452MississippiD 37
453Baton RougeVS 4b 25
454Mystic MagpieHS 4a 16
455How D'ya Like Them Apples?HVS 5a 11
456IckVS 5a 10
 FINAL ROCKS  
458BabsterVS 5a 3
459The Crab GodHS 4a 1
460The Pylon KingE4 6b **4
461Bwornone 5a 4
462Eeyahnone 4c 5
463Author AlertD 1
464Pants in the HedgerowVS 5a 4
465Super Duper Bad Boy FinishE3 6b 1
466Bee AlertHS 4b 2
467Yew CountryE1 5c 5
468A Little RustlingS 6
469FinalityE3 5c *4
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Access notes
To reach SY from Bristol, cross the old Severn Bridge, pass Chepstow on the A48 and take the B4228 through Tutshill and Woodcroft along the top of Wintour's Leap. Continue for 10 miles to Coleford from where SY should be signposted -- watch out for the turning right a short way up the hill that leaves the town, carry on straight

across the Pike House crossroads. In less than a mile, almost opposite the church of Christchurch, there is a small crossroads and then immediately an oblique fork to the left; take this (B4432). After about a mile, after The Rock Inn on your right, there is a well-signed entrance to the main car-parking area to the left (Pay and Display). Note that this car park closes at dusk, so late finishers should seek out alternative parking arrangements just a little bit further up the road on the right.

Access to SY have been painstakingly and patiently negotiated. Note that the areas known as 'Yat Rock' and 'Coldwell Rocks' are now out of bounds for climbers. In previous guides these areas have come under the collective name of 'The Western Cliffs'. Also out of bounds are 'The Seven Sisters' (sometimes called Symmonds Yat West), and in fact all the other outlying limestone crags. This is due to the prescence of rare flora and fauna. Please do consult the guide for the specifics of SY access.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Big Lee ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Hi Jay1902, think you might be out of luck with the sport climbing at Symonds, if you look at the routes on the page there are 3 routes with a sport grading, not much help if your after a load of sport or a day out! I'd try Ban-Y-Gor or tintern, some great sport climbing there!! P.s do you work at go outdoors in gloucester??
McKEuan ? - 16/May/11

Hi, i'm relatively new to climbing, and i'm starting to sport climb outside, are there many sports routes here??
Jay1902 ? - 03/Mar/11

The Pike House pub has been flattened this week. It's signposted to Ross & Symonds Yat.
morticiaskeeper ? - 23/Oct/09

The dodgey pillar at the start of "Coruscation" and "Little Roden" has now collapsed leaving a steeper but much more solid start, however, the crucial small wire placement just above has shattered (not linked with the rockfall), subsequently "Coruscation" is now E2 5c and "Little Roden" E3 5c.
The Pylon King ? - 14/Aug/09

Currently being checked for new C.C. guide due early 2010, lots of routes being cleaned of loose rock and vegetation as well as threads and peg replacement. All bolts are being removed. Check this database for current individual route information.
The Pylon King ? - 08/Nov/08

Keep in mind that The Russian, graded HVS 5a, is a serious undertaking. It was a notorious sandbag when graded at VS but even at HVS it has seen many falls and at least one recent fatality. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=144389 Although somewhat polished it is a great route but it requires the knowledge to place small wiress in less than perfect placements while under pressure. The route seduces you to take one or more moves up in the hope of finding a bomber placement that just doesn't materialise. With the right approach it is well enough protected but having led it recently I would have no argument with E1 5a.
poey50 - 29/Aug/08

not so popular with the folks on here but never the less a good place to climb. Lots of intersting features (mud and loose blocks to name a couple!) but worth a visit and certainly very different if you're a grit climber
hereforded - 21/May/07

Stay away from inroductory rocks and far south. Although both have some lovely climbing, these are particularly popular with groups and to say that some of the rock is polished is an understatement! I live near the "yat" and I feel that it's had to many negative comments about the state of the rock i.e loose and dirty holds. There are some awesome climbs there and it definitely has it's own unique personality. Anyone visiting the wye valley should give it a go and a trip to wintours leap is also definitely recommended (but give yourself plenty of time to find your route as it can be a bit tricky).
petercollins - 25/Jul/06

have to say that SY is home to some excellent climbing despite what some people say, my top ten would be...1.RedRoseSpeedway (HVS), high in the grade but well worth it! 2.The Ankh (E2) superb! 3. Stress Arete (E1) 4. Whitt (VS) great for a first trip to the longstone pinnacle. 5. The Russian (HVS) easier than "red rose speedway" 6. Golden Fleece (S) wonderful openbook corner 7. Bookworm (HS) excellent entry moves 8. Snoozin' Suzie (VDiff) easy climbing but great intro to multipitch routes 9. Winky Wanky Wall (E1) Brave the runout for some of the best wall clinbing at the yat 10. Nansen's Corner (S) good for a first lead
AlexP - 28/Dec/02

Worth the trip just for 'The Russian' (HVS 5a? ***) which got my season off to a flying start a couple of years ago.
Will Judge - 04/Nov/02

Symonds Yat has a character all of its own and is particularly suitable for middle grade climbers, with some excellent routes in the range Severe to HVS, although some of the harder routes (within the range of ordinary mortals, not the occasional E6 horror) are challenging and good value as well. Don\'t go on a wet day as the bottom of the crags gets very muddy and slippery, and the crag does take a while to dry (if you want a quick-dry crag in the Wye Valley, go to Wintours Leap, or if it\'s raining go to Wyndcliffe where you can climb dry rock in a downpour!) At the Yat, I recommend Snoozin Susie (V Diff - real nice); Golden Fleece, Salutation (for the top pitch), Kipper Crack (Severe); Peacock, Offspring, The Druid, Whit, Mockingbird, Pam\'s Pride at VS); The Russian, Strathdon, Stress Arete at HVS; E1/E2: The Trip (out there), Rainbow Warrior, Red Rose Speedway (brilliant), The Ankh, Yellow Grip Road. The most unlikely route I\'ve done is The Wasteland - go to the bottom and have a look! There is gear!
Bill Parker - 23/Apr/02