Symonds Yat

Climbs 466 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 108m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
A characterful and adventurous crag with a bit of a misinformed negative reputation. Very good steep and juggy limestone which is often much better than it first appears, mainly sound but with occasional looseness in places, so always take care. One of the major climbable areas in the Wye Valley, in an idyllic setting, a great variety in rock features, including a pinnacle and caves, a good spread of routes across the grade range and the bonus of parking and a tea shack at the top!! Some real classic routes and always a quiet esoteric corner to explore. Mainly single-pitch routes 10m up to 30 metres plus some longer two pitch routes spread around the place. Protection tends to be solid but can be spaced with sometimes bold starts. SY has had a reputation for sandbag grades, but this is now a thing of the past (See current 2010 CC guide). Because of the tree cover and steepness of the rock, most of the crag remains dry after long spells of rain in the Summer, although the paths below become extremely muddy under foot.

A recent overhaul and reappraisal has been carried out for the excellent new Climber's Club definitive guide (2010)

Access notes
To reach SY from Bristol, cross the old Severn Bridge, pass Chepstow on the A48 and take the B4228 through Tutshill and Woodcroft along the top of Wintour's Leap. Continue for 10 miles to Coleford from where SY should be signposted -- watch out for the turning right a short way up the hill that leaves the town, carry on straight

across the Pike House crossroads. In less than a mile, almost opposite the church of Christchurch, there is a small crossroads and then immediately an oblique fork to the left; take this (B4432). After about a mile, after The Rock Inn on your right, there is a well-signed entrance to the main car-parking area to the left (Pay and Display). Note that this car park closes at dusk, so late finishers should seek out alternative parking arrangements just a little bit further up the road on the right.

Access to SY have been painstakingly and patiently negotiated. Note that the areas known as 'Yat Rock' and 'Coldwell Rocks' are now out of bounds for climbers. In previous guides these areas have come under the collective name of 'The Western Cliffs'. Also out of bounds are 'The Seven Sisters' (sometimes called Symmonds Yat West), and in fact all the other outlying limestone crags. This is due to the prescence of rare flora and fauna. Please do consult the guide for the specifics of SY access.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Symonds Yat (2010)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 THE INTRODUCTORY ROCKS 
2Fin-ishVS 4b
3SoderamaVD
4GarlicD
5Babies Making ChoicesHS 4b
6B-B-B-BoonVS 4c
7GibbonHS 4b
8DwarfHS 4b
9Funky GibbonHS 4c
10Funky DungHVS 5b
11StumperVD
12Hedgehog SandwichS 4a
13Derek, The Flightless HedgehogHVS 5a
14Cave WallVD
15Jackal's ArêteHS 4b
16Jackal's WallE1 5b
17Jackal's GullyD
18Hi Ena! ArêteHVS 5a
19Victor CrackS 4a
20Fetid Dingo's KidneysE1 5a
21SnitchHVS 4c
22SnatchHVS 5a
23TwitchHVS 4c
24BorderlineE3 5c
25Quick TickE4 6a
26Slick TrickE5 6a
27Up the NeckE3 5c
28The BulgerHVS 4c
29Slavers of the SlobsHVS 4c
30WandererD
31CrikeyVD
32ProblematicE1 6a
33Overhanging VeeVD
34Free The Severn SistersE1 5a
35Pre-AmbleVD
36AmblerS 4a *
37KrakatoaHVS 5b
38VesuviusE2 5b
39SuckerE4 5c
40CoruscationE2 5b
41Little RodenE3 5c
42EtnaHS 4a *
43Blood BrotherHS 4a
44Odd-BodHS 4a
45Odd-JobS 4a
46Sentry SlabS 4a
47SentinelS 4a
48BlackheadHS 4a
49Gnome's GroanE1 5b
50Goblin's GrumbleVS 4c
51Pylon's PlaintE1 5b
52Leprechaun's LamentE2 5c
53AquariusE5 6a
54Modern ManE3 6a *
55The Promised LandE5 6a
56Milk and HoneyE5 6a
57AgoraphobiaE1 5b *
58Agoraphobia Direct StartE5 6a
59Mind GamesE4 5c *
60Brain StrainE3 5c *
61The CasbahE2 5c
62The Bizarre StartE3 6b
63PowerthrillE3 6a *
64Psych-upE5 6b *
65Isobel's WallE2 5c
66Sludge PumpD
67A Few Awkward SpotsE3 5c
 HOLLOW ROCK AREA 
69Long ManHVS 5a
70Senior MomentE5 6a
71Matchstick ManHVS 5a *
72DeepeeE6 6a *
73Fat ManHVS 5a
74Crack and SlabVD
75RecallD
76RecollectionD
77CascadeHS 4b
78Brief EncounterHS 4b
79Thirty Thousand PecesHS 4b
80Bull in a GatewayHS 4b
81Root RouteD
82Route Right of Root RouteVD
83Lego PensionerE1 5c
84Meccano KidE1 5c
85MagicE2 5c
86Snoozin' SuzieVD **
87A Right Carry OnHS 4b *
88Suzie JewelHS 4a
89Jewel in the CrownE2 5a
90Too Loose for the Shrieking GooseE3 5c
91HeroesE2 5b
92Biblin WallHVS 5b *
93High JackE1 5b
94Take Fewer PuffsE2 5c
95The NavvyE1 5b
96CrunchE4 6a
97Looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesE2 5c
98Absent FriendsE2 5b
99PhizzogHVS 5a *
100Diamond GrooveVS 4c *
101Rough DiamondHVS 5a
102Direct FinishE1 5b
103The BeakE2 5b *
104Scooby DooHVS 5a *
105The RussianHVS 5a **
106White OrchidE5 6a
107MonsterificE2 5c
108Christmas CarrollsE2 5b
109MockingbirdHVS 4c *
110Newcastle ArmsHVS 4c
111Red Rose SpeedwayHVS 5a ***
112Dont Fear The ReaperE4 6a *
113Lord of the DanceHVS 5b
114Big DaddyE5 6b
115OffspringVS 4c *
116The WastelandE3 6a *
117ApologiesE4 6a *
118Too Freaked to SpeakE4 6a
119The AnkhE2 5c **
120White LieE3 5c
121TerminatorE5 6b
122Black TulipE4 6a **
123SuicideE4 6a
124ThrillerE4 6a
125Fortune Favours the BraveE4 6a **
126King CrabE3 6a *
127Hole in the WallHVS 5a *
128Where Have All the Flowers Gone?E1 5b
129The Penny DroppedE2 5c *
130SwedenE3 5c **
131PeacockVS 4b *
132YorkerHVS 4c
133GrobblerVS 4c
134ArgonautVS 4b
135Golden FleeceHS 4b **
136Golden Fleece - Left-Hand FinishS 4a *
137Never Trust a Smiling CatE2 5c *
138The DruidVS 4c **
139The StaffE1 5b
140ExchangeVS 4b *
141Track ShoeHS 4b
142TransformerHS 4b
143Transformer - Direct StartE1 5c
144Yat ChimneyD
145Liver And OnionsVD
146Flying MachineVD
147CracktitHS 4b
148Happy BirthdayVD
149A Story Like the WindE2 5c
150Boar in the WoodsVS 4b
151ChevronHVS 5a
152Tony Didn't Done ThisE1 5a
153Oh! Yes He DidE3 5c
154English Country GardenHVS 5a *
155Green Grow the Grollies Oh!VS 4c *
156Past PurpleVS 4c
157Fly LiceHS 4b
158Fly Lice - Direct StartE1 5b
159Training for EverestHVS 5a
160Trundlebum RexS *
161FootpadHVS 5b
162Footpad - Direct StartE1 5b
163Big Bad CVS 4c *
164Ramblin' RoseHS 4b
165Ryan's DaughterE2 5c
166Pull Yourselves OffHVS 5b *
 THE WHITE WALL 
168Motorway MadnessE3 5c *
169Tales of the RiverbankE3 5c
170The Last ValleyE3 5b
171Ego WarriorE1 5b *
172Run Robert RunE3 5c *
173Racing DemonE1 5b
174Edward the FirstE2 5b *
175StrathdonE1 5b *
176Mister StrathdonE2 5b
177Double Die HardE3 6a **
178The BellHVS 5b
179YatesHVS 5a
180Owl CaponeE2 5b *
181Winter KillsE3 5c
182BritanniaVS 4c
183One True PathHVS 5a *
184PrioryVS 4b
185CollaborationVS 4b
186GeriatrixHVS 4c
187NefariousE4 6b
188The Redeemed FinishE5 6b *
189Gone to TexasE4 6a
190Night NurseE1 5b *
 THE WATERPIPE BAY 
192Parachute (1)HS 4b
193TanzaniaHVS 5a
194The Empty Days (1)HVS 5a
195White Hart (1)VS 4b
196Water TortureE2 5b
197Bold and NoseyE1 5b
198GumshoeHVS 5a
199Slidewater Shuffle (1)VS 4b
200The Bathroom WindowVS 4b
201FlightVS 4b *
202Flight DeckHVS 5a *
203Arrow Root (1)VD
204FletchVS 4b
205Parachute (2)S 4a *
206Every Day's Like SundayE4 6a
207White Heart (2)HVS 5b **
208Black HeartE3 5c
209Knots in MayE3 5c *
210Fly on the WallHVS 5a *
211Just a WallflowerE1 5b
212Jack of DiamondsVS 4b
213Slidewater Shuffle (2)VS 4b
214Mean Mr. MustardHVS 4c
215Sinergen (2)HVS 4c
216AfterbirthS 4a
217SuspicionVS 4b
218LocustVD
219TemikHS 4a
220ChorionE1 5b
221EarthboundVD
222The Stud Cat from JerseyE2 5b
223EmbryoVD
224Jilted JohnS 4a *
225Peace for MargyHVS 5a
226BaboonE2 5c
227Orang-utanE2 5b
228MorkHVS 5a
229Crumble CrackHVS 5a
230Arrow Root (2)M
231The Seven Deadly DwarvesVD *
232Rootin TootVD
233FarewellHS 4b
234Broken RootD
235Musta BindunVD
236WondermashHVS 5a
237OtakVS 4b *
238Busy Hands is Happy HandsHVS 5a *
239Rite RootD
240Small PotatoesE1 5c
241ArachnidE1 5b
242OniscusE3 6a
243Mr FlexE5 6b *
244Feel the PinchE2 5c
245The JewessE3 5c **
246Flexi JerkoffE5 6a
247Big GirlE1 5b
248Dave's DownfallHS 4b
249DrunkVS 4c
250Leaders of MenHVS 5a
251Loony on the LooseVS 4b
252Black DandruffHVS 4c
 THE LONG STONE AREA 
254AzoicS 4a
255NikabrikD
256GMTVS 4a
257Cave ArêteHS 4a
258Vote ECOVD
259Last FlingHS 4a
260Tongue In CheekE2 5c
261Lickin' The LipE4 6a
262Alpenistes Left HandE2 5c *
263AlpinistesE1 5b
264Fate for BreakfastE2 5a
265Breakfast in AmericaHS 4b
266PorridgeVD
267MuesliHVS 5b
268LurcherHVS 4c
269Time Is ShortE2 5b
270Red RackVD
271Slanting SlotVS 5a
272Dead ChurchillsE2 5b *
273The Little Red EdgeVD *
274Needle Rock GullyD
275CrypsisVD
 LONGSTONE PINNACLE 
277MinervaS 4b
278Golden SuspenderE2 5c
279VertigoS *
280Petticoat LaneE1 5b
281Ten Years OnHVS 5a
282WhittVS 4c ***
283Orange WallHVS 5a **
284Free RadicalE2 5c **
285Heart of OakE4 6a **
286Strong MedicineE4 6a *
287Two HundredE2 5b *
 INSANITY CAVE 
289StaircaseVD
290BanisterS
291Arch WallHVS 4c
292Homo ErectusE5 6a
293Piggy MaloneE4 6a
294Baissé FreussardE6 6b *
295On the Lip of InsanityE7 6b ***
296TroglodyteE3 6a *
297PerimeterHS 4b
298Tea on a Rainy DayVD 4a *
299WeathermanD
300A Winters TailD
301Midsummer DelayHS 4a
302DescenderD
303Four SeasonsD
304Spring CleanHS 4b
305Okay FingersE5 6b *
306Autumn DreamVS 4c
307Autumn's DawnHVS 5a *
308King of the SwingersE1 5c *
 BOWLERS HOLE AREA 
310SudatoriumS 4a
311The Gay RavenE1 5c
312Dancer on the WindVS 4c
313Nansen CornerS *
314BookwormVS 4b
315Bookworm/BludgeonHVS 5a
316BludgeonHVS 5a
317ClaptrapVS 4b
318Episcopalian ToothpickE1 5a
319Nansen CrackS *
320Presbyterian ToothpickHVS 5a
321Mango HighwayE2 5b
322Mango ChutneyE2 5c
323Kipper CrackVS 4c *
324DeadlineE3 5c **
325God KnowsE3 5b
326KebboHS 4b *
327TolkHVS 4c *
328SalyutE3 5c
329Threshold of InsanityE1 5b
330She's Lost ControlE2 5b *
331PredatorHVS 5a
332AlbanyHS 4a *
333SalutationVS 4c
334Heart of the TreeE1 5b
335Tree RootE1 5a
336Caving DirectVS 4b
337Fire LighterVS 4c
338Scar TrekE5 6a
339On Bondai BeachE6 6b *
340Space : The final frontier...E5 6b *
341Cave RouteE2 5c
342Slab Route IIE2 5c
343The TripE1 5b **
344YongonaE3 5b *
345HeadbangerE1 5b
346Blackie BoyHS 4a
347Highways Of The SunVS 4c
348Roger's RouteVS 4b
349Lynda's RouteE1 5b
350Sunset ChaserHS 4a
351The GrockettE3 5b
352SickleHVS 5a *
353The Book of British TreesS
354AngelaHS 4c
355PaulHS 4b
356Prima GravidaE3 5c *
357Out The BottleE3 5c
358Tiger Cub SpecialVS 5a *
359Old GringoVS 4b
360PistolS
361ZymurgyS
362Fuck the Royal WeddingVS 4b
363ScatologyS
364HomoeopathS *
365LuciferE1 5b
366AbacusVS 4c
367Tufty Club SpecialHVS 4c
368Gripfruit JuiceHS 4b
369Rebelious JukeboxHVS 5b
370Too Old to Rock 'n' RollE3 6a
371Indian Rope TrickHVS 5b
372HibernationVD
373Catch-22HS 4a
374However Ugly Society Becomes, Nature Will Always Be BeautifulE1 5b
375NovitiateVD
376Andy RandyHS
377Looby LooS
378Old HandsVD
379PlopalotVD
380Tarzan's NutsVD
381Seth's ClothS 4a
382Awopbopalubop AwambamboomVS 4c
 FAR SOUTH BAY AREA 
384Let There Be LightVS 4c
385EmeraldVD
386Traveller's RestVD *
387Fat CatE3 6a
388Stress ArêteE1 5b *
389WimpleHS 4b
390Is It A Banana?E5 6b *
391Oomigooli GrooveE1 5b *
392Snatch-BackE4 6a *
393Devil DogE3 5c
394Clever CatE4 6a
395Winky Wanky WallE1 5a
396Thin LionE1 5b
397Central RouteVD
398Mellow YellowE1 5b *
399Pure GoldE4 6b
400Yellow Grip RoadE2 5c *
401Yellow Grip GrooveE1 5a
402Yellow PerilHVS 5a
403JulepS
404CornergrotD
405Farewell to ArmsE1 5b
406Moss WallHS 4b
407Pot and GlassVS 4c
408My Noble Son SethE2 5b **
409The ScampHVS 5a *
410RhubarbHS 4b *
411Red MenaceHVS 5b *
412Red ShiftVS 4c *
413Eddie CollinsHS 4b
414Dennis the MenaceE2 6a
415Burning UpE3 5c
416Forbidden ColoursE4 5c *
417Rainbow WarriorE2 5c **
418Deep SixE3 5c *
419Pam's PrideVS 4c **
420MyxomatosisVS 4c *
421Return of the GladiatorVS 4c *
422SagittaS 4b
423An Error of JudgementHS 4a
424Barry the Whale's Right LegE1 5b
425SarcoptesHVS 5b *
426Launch BerryE1 5b
427Joyce's RouteS 4a **
428No ChargeE1 5c
429Charge TransferHVS 5b *
430Little Big ManHVS 5a
431CheHVS 5b
 THE CRIMEAN WALL 
433The Light BrigadeVD
434GrubbocksVS 5a
435Milky TumE1 5b
436Marshall's RetreatHS 4b
437Jo's AdvanceE1 5b
438Let's Run It Up the Flagpole and See Who Salutes ItHVS 5b
439Hold FireE1 5c
440Fire at WillHVS 5a
441Which One's Will?D
442Take CoverD
443Take AimD
 NEW ORLEANS BUTTRESS 
445SweepD
446Happy EndingE2 5a
447Birthday ArêteHVS 5a *
448Mister Kerr SirVS 4c
449AlabamaVD
450Everything's Gone GreenE1 5b
451Cotton Club CrackHS 4b
452John HollingsworthHVS 4c
453MasqueradeVD
454Mardi GrasD
455The Big EasyHS 4c
456Plantation ChimneyD
457Southern ComfortVS 4c *
458Louisiana BelleHS 4b
459PlopE3 6a *
460MississippiD
461Baton RougeVS 4b
462Mystic MagpieHS 4a
463How D'ya Like Them Apples?HVS 5a
464IckVS 5a
 FINAL ROCKS 
466BabsterVS 5a
467The Crab GodHS 4a
468The Pylon KingE4 6b **
469Bwornone 5a
470Eeyahnone 4c
471Author AlertD
472Pants in the HedgerowVS 5a
473Super Duper Bad Boy FinishE3 6b
474A New LifeE4 6b **
475Bee AlertHS 4b
476Yew CountryE1 5c
477A Little RustlingS
478FinalityE3 5c *
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Big Lee

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
HS 4b routes r bloody hard here so be carefull.
mrdigitaljedi - 13/Jul/14
17th May - Blackbirds nesting about two-thirds up Nansen Crack. On 5 eggs. Please take care or avoid. Should fledge within a month or so.
Rob Morgan - 17/May/14
As of 26/05/13 there was a female mallard nesting on the pinnacle, so watch where you step!
james.slater - 27/May/13
Hi Jay1902, think you might be out of luck with the sport climbing at Symonds, if you look at the routes on the page there are 3 routes with a sport grading, not much help if your after a load of sport or a day out! I'd try Ban-Y-Gor or tintern, some great sport climbing there!! P.s do you work at go outdoors in gloucester??
McKEuan - 16/May/11
Hi, i'm relatively new to climbing, and i'm starting to sport climb outside, are there many sports routes here??
Jay1902 - 03/Mar/11
The Pike House pub has been flattened this week. It's signposted to Ross & Symonds Yat.
morticiaskeeper - 23/Oct/09
The dodgey pillar at the start of "Coruscation" and "Little Roden" has now collapsed leaving a steeper but much more solid start, however, the crucial small wire placement just above has shattered (not linked with the rockfall), subsequently "Coruscation" is now E2 5c and "Little Roden" E3 5c.
The Pylon King - 14/Aug/09
Currently being checked for new C.C. guide due early 2010, lots of routes being cleaned of loose rock and vegetation as well as threads and peg replacement. All bolts are being removed. Check this database for current individual route information.
The Pylon King - 08/Nov/08
Keep in mind that The Russian, graded HVS 5a, is a serious undertaking. It was a notorious sandbag when graded at VS but even at HVS it has seen many falls and at least one recent fatality. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=144389 Although somewhat polished it is a great route but it requires the knowledge to place small wiress in less than perfect placements while under pressure. The route seduces you to take one or more moves up in the hope of finding a bomber placement that just doesn't materialise. With the right approach it is well enough protected but having led it recently I would have no argument with E1 5a.
poey50 - 29/Aug/08
not so popular with the folks on here but never the less a good place to climb. Lots of intersting features (mud and loose blocks to name a couple!) but worth a visit and certainly very different if you're a grit climber
hereforded - 21/May/07
Stay away from inroductory rocks and far south. Although both have some lovely climbing, these are particularly popular with groups and to say that some of the rock is polished is an understatement! I live near the "yat" and I feel that it's had to many negative comments about the state of the rock i.e loose and dirty holds. There are some awesome climbs there and it definitely has it's own unique personality. Anyone visiting the wye valley should give it a go and a trip to wintours leap is also definitely recommended (but give yourself plenty of time to find your route as it can be a bit tricky).
petercollins - 25/Jul/06
have to say that SY is home to some excellent climbing despite what some people say, my top ten would be...1.RedRoseSpeedway (HVS), high in the grade but well worth it! 2.The Ankh (E2) superb! 3. Stress Arete (E1) 4. Whitt (VS) great for a first trip to the longstone pinnacle. 5. The Russian (HVS) easier than "red rose speedway" 6. Golden Fleece (S) wonderful openbook corner 7. Bookworm (HS) excellent entry moves 8. Snoozin' Suzie (VDiff) easy climbing but great intro to multipitch routes 9. Winky Wanky Wall (E1) Brave the runout for some of the best wall clinbing at the yat 10. Nansen's Corner (S) good for a first lead
AlexP - 28/Dec/02
Worth the trip just for 'The Russian' (HVS 5a? ***) which got my season off to a flying start a couple of years ago.
Will Judge - 04/Nov/02
Symonds Yat has a character all of its own and is particularly suitable for middle grade climbers, with some excellent routes in the range Severe to HVS, although some of the harder routes (within the range of ordinary mortals, not the occasional E6 horror) are challenging and good value as well. Don\'t go on a wet day as the bottom of the crags gets very muddy and slippery, and the crag does take a while to dry (if you want a quick-dry crag in the Wye Valley, go to Wintours Leap, or if it\'s raining go to Wyndcliffe where you can climb dry rock in a downpour!) At the Yat, I recommend Snoozin Susie (V Diff - real nice); Golden Fleece, Salutation (for the top pitch), Kipper Crack (Severe); Peacock, Offspring, The Druid, Whit, Mockingbird, Pam\'s Pride at VS); The Russian, Strathdon, Stress Arete at HVS; E1/E2: The Trip (out there), Rainbow Warrior, Red Rose Speedway (brilliant), The Ankh, Yellow Grip Road. The most unlikely route I\'ve done is The Wasteland - go to the bottom and have a look! There is gear!
Bill Parker - 23/Apr/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 04/Jan/2013

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