Huntsham Crags

Climbs 199 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 129m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Line of smallish grit-like sandstone-conglomerate crags and freestanding boulders, certainly worth a look, but be aware of access problems. Rarely busy. Single pitch routes to 15 metres.

Martin Crockers' 'The Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean' (Climbers' Club, 2006) is definitive for the main crag. The boulders are another matter!

Many routes cannot be protected. Crocker suggests a top-rope then solo ethic, but please rig to avoid eroding the edges.

Access notes
It has been stated by the landowners that climbing on these crags are restricted due to rubbish being left at the crag and a reported fatality. However this fatality has not been confirmed as of 22AUG14, and the general consensus is that the littering is not the work of local climbers of the crag. Having said this, please respect the landowners decision and if you do venture down to the crag be sure to keep a low profile and collect any litter you see to ensure negotiations with the owners are successful.

"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

The area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so.

Please report any access difficulties to the BMC."

The above comes from the BMC RAD as of 5th March 2009. If you read the comments below, you will see an example of this new development with the landowners. If you do venture to this crag and have problems, please also post here as well as notifying the BMC.

From the Symonds Yat car parks, walk northwards down the road past a short open section and the Baptist Chapel. A bit further on, but prior to reaching the fork, take a signed footpath to the right marked Wye Valley Walk. After just over 100 yards another path doubles back to the right uphill, leading directly to Rainy Day Buttress.

There is also space for one car at a small layby on the left as you approach Symonds Yat at the start of the footpath.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Sandstone outcrops of the Forest of Dean (2006),
Out of print: Symonds Yat (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 HUNTSHAM WEST  
2KipperedE4 6b *1
 SUGARLUMP BOULDER  
4It Snapped!V5 6b 3
5BadgeredV1 5c 2
 DARK SIDE BOULDER  
7Left Arete (S/S)f6C ***5
8Left Arête (Darkside Boulder)f6A+ 32
9The Edgesf6A 44
10Give Me LightE1 5c 54
11Pothole Arêtef4 46
12Darkside Traversef6B+ ***9
 ISOLATED BUTTRESS  
14A Camera-Shy GuyE1 5a 1
15While the Cat's AwayE2 5b 1
 RAINY DAY BUTTRESS  
17The Devil May CareE8 6c ***1
18Just Grab It!E6 6b **1
19Blood SuckerVD 7
20SnippetE1 5b 3
 MILLS BUTTRESS  
22AlphaS 4a 6
23No BetaE1 5a 1
24Gîte de FranceHS 4a 6
 UPPER EDGE  
26In The MistE4 6b 1
27GorillaVS 4b 2
28FinVS 5c 4
29Club FootVS 4c 4
30Take a PebbleVS 4c *2
31The Selfish ChildE3 5b 2
32Forty-three TodayE2 5b 2
33FirstfootS 4a 2
 CHORAL BUTTRESS  
35The Braille SnailE5 6a **2
36WoodlandsE3 5c 1
37Bustin'E4 6b **8
38Godfather Of RockE6 6b ***1
39Song ChildVS 4c *7
40Crack DancerHVS 5b *6
41Masters of the PunyverseE6 6c ***2
 ELDER BUTTRESS  
43Sausage on a StickE6 6a *6
44Feather Light SlabE3 5b *1
45FeatherweightE4 5c **1
46Claim 2 FameE7 6c 8
47Deep SpaceS 4a 8
48Beside the SeasideS 4a 10
49Herpe's Hogmonay HangoverHS 4b 7
 CROWN BUTTRESS  
 PROBOSCIS BUTTRESS  
52ProboscisVS 5a ***8
 LITTLE NOSES BLUFF BOULDERING  
54Retrousse WallV0 4c 1
55Rockover WallV0 5b 3
56The HooterV1 5c 3
 BERGERAC BUTTRESS  
58Late RiserE5 5c **8
59Appointment With BeerE5 6b ***23
60Tequila SunriseE5 6b **2
61The ChristeningE2 5b *1
62GunpointE2 5b 16
63Samuel Redbreast S/Sf6B+ * 
 CHOCKSTONE BUTTRESS  
65Crouching the Log-up-meE6 6b ** 
66Essence of BeingE6 6b/c *** 
67Payback TimeE6 6b ** 
68Glory DaysE4 5c *3
69Triple LockE5 6b **4
70Alex's Rooff7A **46
71Alex's Roof Directf7A **5
72Beware the Fascistf7B **6
73Beware the Fascist Directf7A+ ***2
74Shoehornf7A+ **2
75Slight AreteV0- 4c 7
76Half-CrackedV0- 4c 7
77Vein WallV0 5a 8
 RIFT BOULDER  
79Rib Ticklerf6B *2
80The Bulgef4+ 13
81Rift Crackf6B 19
82Atrium bulgef6C **3
83Atrium Projectf7A **3
84Rift Wall Traversef7A *16
85Rift Aretef6B+ 13
86Pebbles Revengef6B+ *6
87Mid Riftf4 5
88Crack Right, Rift Boulderf4 *19
89Rift Valley Low Startf6B+  
90Rift Rightf7C+  
91End the riftf4+ 2
92Sapling Finishf3+ 3b 2
 BREAD PUDDING BOULDER  
94In Lardf6A+ *4
95Bread Puddingf5+ ***39
96Bread Pudding Dynof7C  
97Pudding Basinf6C **16
98The Portholef7A+ **24
99Lick the Bowlf6C **45
100Bowl rim extensionf6C+ *6
101Bowl Rimf6A ***54
102Creamf6C+ *17
103Harpers Bazaarf6A+ *5
104The Gnarly Traversef7C *4
105Doss Roof Rightf6A *6
 SLICED SLUG BOULDER  
107Stay on ItE4 6c * 
108The ImpaleE1 5b 12
109Golden Bicep (standing start)f6B+ 39
110Golden Bicep (sit start)f6C+ **84
111Golden Undercutf6C+ 2
112The FlakesE1 5c 79
113Underflakef5+ ***11
114Underflake (sit start)f6A ***28
115We're Chuffin' Awesome... and Other Stories!f7A 6
116Right Flakef6B *9
117Upper flakef6A ***12
118Upper flake (sit start)f6A+ ***21
119Aimlessf7A **3
120Ames More or Lessf7A 2
121SlugtasteE4 6a 14
122Ames Lowf7A+ ***44
123Ames Low - Slugtastef7B **4
124Left hookf7B+ ***6
125Low Blowf7B+ **22
126Ames Highf7A+ **4
127Ames Super High Wayf7A+ ***2
128The Loop8a **6
129Lettuce ClimbHVS 5b  
130Slugback RiderE2 6a *2
131Slug It OutE3 6b *2
132Silke Smoothf6A 2
 SHADOW BOULDER  
134PenumbraD 1
135The Golden ValleyE2 5c 2
136ShadowlandsE5 5c ***5
137Sharing the DarknessE6 6a  
138Blinded by the LightE6 6b ** 
139Deep Forest DesiresE5 6b  
 BIVI BUTTRESS  
141Mat TrepassE5 6a **3
142Rough Sleepers InitiativeE2 6a 1
143Friend In KneedE4 5c  
144Kneeded FriendsE5 6b *1
145Speaking in TonguesE5 6a ** 
146The Overnight StayE1 5b 6
147Grated Armf6C 1
148Short and Steepf6B 2
149Bivi Groove Leftf7A+ 1
150Bivi groovef6B+ **14
151Sand Smoked Baconf6B+ *8
152The Hunter's Rooff8A ***2
153Half Projectf7C ***2
154Between the Linesf7B+ **16
155Phil McRackinf7B+ *4
156Peckitt rooff7C **9
157Under Stars is Bestf6B+ 6a 33
158Bivi Buttress Traversef7A+ *6
159Elliot's Wallf6C+ *6
 THE BOULDERS  
161WaferE3 5b 1
162Not Another Roadside AttractionS 4a 1
163Wan-tunS 2
 BOW BUTTRESS  
165TwixVS 4c *3
 THE PYRAMID  
167Pharoah's TombD 3
168The MummyVS 4c 2
169Valley of the KingsHVS 5a 4
170The WonderHVS 5a 1
 RUIN WALL  
172The PebblemasterE5 6a *2
173Whitewash WallE3 5c 1
 FINAL BUTTRESS  
175The Final WordE4 5c *1
 THE SPONGE  
177Riverside CruiseE6 6c ***1
178The Aretef5+ 5c 3
 RIVERSIDE  
180Riverview RampHVS 4b *2
181Riverview WallE4 5c 1
182Pebble PracticeV1 5c ***17
183The NoseV0- 3c 3
184Nose PickerV2 6a 3
185The BeakV1 5c 5
186Oral Rope Burn EliminateV2 5c 1
 CUBE BOULDER  
188Rocketf6C **38
189Cube left arêtef5+ 5
190Left Eye Socketf7A+ **11
191Right Eye Socketf7A ***11
192One More Gof6C **6
193The Edgef7A **2
 SATELLITE BOULDER  
195The Stepsf2+ 2c 2
196Satellite Wall Low Traversef6A *13
197Satellite Wall Mid Traversef5 **21
198Satellite Wall High Traversef5+ *9
199Rumpy pumpyf6B *4
200The Jugsf4+ 49
201Satellite Wallf5 *43
202The Scoopf6A **47
203Oh Yeahf7A+ **2
204Double Topf7A ***4
205Right Hand Manf6C+ ***6
 HALF MOON BOULDER  
207The Rise And Fall Of The Splasherf7A+ *14
208Nosejob *V2 6a 1
209Cyrano Wall *V2 6a 1
210Headmare *HS 4b 2
211Strongbow *E3 5b *2
212Valley Solicitor *E5 6a **2
213Left Arete *V4 5c 1
214Porthole Arete *VB 4a 1
215Square Eagle *V3 ? *1
216Rift Arete Traverse *f6C+ ***1
217Dusk Gully *VD 1
218Chockahunas *VB 7b ***2
219The Guy's High *E2 5b 2
220So Illicit *HVS 4c 2
221Percy's Depression *E4 6b **2
222Alison's Chagrin *E3 5b 2
223The Reubenite *E5 5c ***2
224Hinge and Bracket *E3 5b 2
225The Open Gate *E3 5c 2
226Five Alive *E6 6a **3
227Through Air *E5 6b *3
228Loss and Attachment *E3 5c ***1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer AMorris

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Please wipe your feet before setting off on problems and routes at Huntsham. I was at the Slug today and lots of the footholds were ingrained with mud. The rock is a touch soft there and it'll erode quickly if we don't all do our bit to look after it. Climbing with 'quiet' feet will really help too. Thank you - doing this'll be better for the rock and everyone who enjoys climbing on it! :-)
Joyce - 12/Oct/14
Access seems to be a problem once again, see my post on the forum. Please avoid or keep a low profile for the time-being, I'm hopeful formal access can be agreed.
tombeasley - 21/Aug/14
(8.6.14) I enjoyed my visit today. The main crag is fairly diry and overgrown but the boulders have been well maintained by someone. Darkside, Satellite, Sliced Slug, Bread Pudding and Rift boulders all appeared clean with good landings free from brambles. Thankyou to whoever has been doing this.
disturbed_one51 - 08/Jun/14
I've put a topo for bivi buttress on here if its of any use to anyone. http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-you-go-down-to-woods-today.html
AJM - 06/Nov/13
BMC status on this crag is that it's banned, I've heard through the grapevine that people have climbed here multiple times without the landowner kicking up much fuss. Is this crag still viable to climb without getting a telling off or is it worth steering clear still?
Cypher - 01/Jun/12
Was here on Sunday (04/12/11) massivly overgrown but if you start at sugarlump boulder the path is clear.
Croakinglizard - 07/Dec/11
Some awsome problems, and only an hour from Bristol. Quite overgrown with brambles so wouldn't recomend wearing shorts!
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Apr/11
Enjoyed this visit 17/03/10. Pretty brambly but worth the effort. The flakes on the Slug was my highlight.
Gareth Bowen - 17/Mar/10
went bouldering here July 2009. Overgrown paths, so wear trousers and bring some cutters or a big bashing stick! Sometimes difficult to find the boulders because of all the brambles, but worth perservering as the rock is surprisingly solid (except where it's not!) Went to the sugarlump, dark side and rift boulder, all of which are worth the effort!
Jeronimo - 11/Jul/09
We got asked to leave Huntsham Crag today; 20-03-09. Apparently its private property & the land owners are intending to email all the local climbing clubs & indoor walls to this effect. Has anybody got any comments on that?
them - 20/Mar/09
definetly is worth a visit. in recent issue of climber mag and there is an online topo by golden bicep. Some brilliant problems and very quite. All the good problems are clean and never mossy.
BenNorman - 30/Nov/08
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 22/Aug/2014
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