Huntsham Crags

Climbs 199 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 129m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Line of smallish grit-like sandstone-conglomerate crags and freestanding boulders, certainly worth a look, but be aware of access problems. Rarely busy. Single pitch routes to 15 metres.

Martin Crockers' 'The Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean' (Climbers' Club, 2006) is definitive for the main crag. The boulders are another matter!

Many routes cannot be protected. Crocker suggests a top-rope then solo ethic, but please rig to avoid eroding the edges.

Access notes
It has been stated by the landowners that climbing on these crags are restricted due to rubbish being left at the crag and a reported fatality. However this fatality has not been confirmed as of 22AUG14, and the general consensus is that the littering is not the work of local climbers of the crag. Having said this, please respect the landowners decision and if you do venture down to the crag be sure to keep a low profile and collect any litter you see to ensure negotiations with the owners are successful.

"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

The area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so.

Please report any access difficulties to the BMC."

The above comes from the BMC RAD as of 5th March 2009. If you read the comments below, you will see an example of this new development with the landowners. If you do venture to this crag and have problems, please also post here as well as notifying the BMC.

From the Symonds Yat car parks, walk northwards down the road past a short open section and the Baptist Chapel. A bit further on, but prior to reaching the fork, take a signed footpath to the right marked Wye Valley Walk. After just over 100 yards another path doubles back to the right uphill, leading directly to Rainy Day Buttress.

There is also space for one car at a small layby on the left as you approach Symonds Yat at the start of the footpath.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Sandstone outcrops of the Forest of Dean (2006),
Out of print: Symonds Yat (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 HUNTSHAM WEST 
2KipperedE4 6b *
 SUGARLUMP BOULDER 
4It Snapped!V5 6b
5BadgeredV1 5c
 DARK SIDE BOULDER 
7Left Arete (S/S)f6C ***
8Left Arête (Darkside Boulder)f6A+
9The Edgesf6A
10Give Me LightE1 5c
11Pothole Arêtef4
12Darkside Traversef6B+ ***
 ISOLATED BUTTRESS 
14A Camera-Shy GuyE1 5a
15While the Cat's AwayE2 5b
 RAINY DAY BUTTRESS 
17The Devil May CareE8 6c ***
18Just Grab It!E6 6b **
19Blood SuckerVD
20SnippetE1 5b
 MILLS BUTTRESS 
22AlphaS 4a
23No BetaE1 5a
24Gîte de FranceHS 4a
 UPPER EDGE 
26In The MistE4 6b
27GorillaVS 4b
28FinVS 5c
29Club FootVS 4c
30Take a PebbleVS 4c *
31The Selfish ChildE3 5b
32Forty-three TodayE2 5b
33FirstfootS 4a
 CHORAL BUTTRESS 
35The Braille SnailE5 6a **
36WoodlandsE3 5c
37Bustin'E4 6b **
38Godfather Of RockE6 6b ***
39Song ChildVS 4c *
40Crack DancerHVS 5b *
41Masters of the PunyverseE6 6c ***
 ELDER BUTTRESS 
43Sausage on a StickE6 6a *
44Feather Light SlabE3 5b *
45FeatherweightE4 5c **
46Claim 2 FameE7 6c
47Deep SpaceS 4a
48Beside the SeasideS 4a
49Herpe's Hogmonay HangoverHS 4b
 CROWN BUTTRESS 
 PROBOSCIS BUTTRESS 
52ProboscisVS 5a ***
 LITTLE NOSES BLUFF BOULDERING 
54Retrousse WallV0 4c
55Rockover WallV0 5b
56The HooterV1 5c
 BERGERAC BUTTRESS 
58Late RiserE5 5c **
59Appointment With BeerE5 6b ***
60Tequila SunriseE5 6b **
61The ChristeningE2 5b *
62GunpointE2 5b
63Samuel Redbreast S/Sf6B+ *
 CHOCKSTONE BUTTRESS 
65Crouching the Log-up-meE6 6b **
66Essence of BeingE6 6b/c ***
67Payback TimeE6 6b **
68Glory DaysE4 5c *
69Triple LockE5 6b **
70Alex's Rooff7A **
71Alex's Roof Directf7A **
72Beware the Fascistf7B **
73Beware the Fascist Directf7A+ ***
74Shoehornf7A+ **
75Slight AreteV0- 4c
76Half-CrackedV0- 4c
77Vein WallV0 5a
 RIFT BOULDER 
79Rib Ticklerf6B *
80The Bulgef4+
81Rift Crackf6B
82Atrium bulgef6C **
83Atrium Projectf7A **
84Rift Wall Traversef7A *
85Rift Aretef6B+
86Pebbles Revengef6B+ *
87Mid Riftf4
88Crack Right, Rift Boulderf4 *
89Rift Valley Low Startf6B+
90Rift Rightf7C+
91End the riftf4+
92Sapling Finishf3+ 3b
 BREAD PUDDING BOULDER 
94In Lardf6A+ *
95Bread Puddingf5+ ***
96Bread Pudding Dynof7C
97Pudding Basinf6C **
98The Portholef7A+ **
99Lick the Bowlf6C **
100Bowl rim extensionf6C+ *
101Bowl Rimf6A ***
102Creamf6C+ *
103Harpers Bazaarf6A+ *
104The Gnarly Traversef7C *
105Doss Roof Rightf6A *
 SLICED SLUG BOULDER 
107Stay on ItE4 6c *
108The ImpaleE1 5b
109Golden Bicep (standing start)f6B+
110Golden Bicep (sit start)f6C+ **
111Golden Undercutf6C+
112The FlakesE1 5c
113Underflakef5+ ***
114Underflake (sit start)f6A ***
115We're Chuffin' Awesome... and Other Stories!f7A
116Right Flakef6B *
117Upper flakef6A ***
118Upper flake (sit start)f6A+ ***
119Aimlessf7A **
120Ames More or Lessf7A
121SlugtasteE4 6a
122Ames Lowf7A+ ***
123Ames Low - Slugtastef7B **
124Left hookf7B+ ***
125Low Blowf7B+ **
126Ames Highf7A+ **
127Ames Super High Wayf7A+ ***
128The Loop8a **
129Lettuce ClimbHVS 5b
130Slugback RiderE2 6a *
131Slug It OutE3 6b *
132Silke Smoothf6A
 SHADOW BOULDER 
134PenumbraD
135The Golden ValleyE2 5c
136ShadowlandsE5 5c ***
137Sharing the DarknessE6 6a
138Blinded by the LightE6 6b **
139Deep Forest DesiresE5 6b
 BIVI BUTTRESS 
141Mat TrepassE5 6a **
142Rough Sleepers InitiativeE2 6a
143Friend In KneedE4 5c
144Kneeded FriendsE5 6b *
145Speaking in TonguesE5 6a **
146The Overnight StayE1 5b
147Grated Armf6C
148Short and Steepf6B
149Bivi Groove Leftf7A+
150Bivi groovef6B+ **
151Sand Smoked Baconf6B+ *
152The Hunter's Rooff8A ***
153Half Projectf7C ***
154Between the Linesf7B+ **
155Phil McRackinf7B+ *
156Peckitt rooff7C **
157Under Stars is Bestf6B+ 6a
158Bivi Buttress Traversef7A+ *
159Elliot's Wallf6C+ *
 THE BOULDERS 
161WaferE3 5b
162Not Another Roadside AttractionS 4a
163Wan-tunS
 BOW BUTTRESS 
165TwixVS 4c *
 THE PYRAMID 
167Pharoah's TombD
168The MummyVS 4c
169Valley of the KingsHVS 5a
170The WonderHVS 5a
 RUIN WALL 
172The PebblemasterE5 6a *
173Whitewash WallE3 5c
 FINAL BUTTRESS 
175The Final WordE4 5c *
 THE SPONGE 
177Riverside CruiseE6 6c ***
178The Aretef5+ 5c
 RIVERSIDE 
180Riverview RampHVS 4b *
181Riverview WallE4 5c
182Pebble PracticeV1 5c ***
183The NoseV0- 3c
184Nose PickerV2 6a
185The BeakV1 5c
186Oral Rope Burn EliminateV2 5c
 CUBE BOULDER 
188Rocketf6C **
189Cube left arêtef5+
190Left Eye Socketf7A+ **
191Right Eye Socketf7A ***
192One More Gof6C **
193The Edgef7A **
 SATELLITE BOULDER 
195The Stepsf2+ 2c
196Satellite Wall Low Traversef6A *
197Satellite Wall Mid Traversef5 **
198Satellite Wall High Traversef5+ *
199Rumpy pumpyf6B *
200The Jugsf4+
201Satellite Wallf5 *
202The Scoopf6A **
203Oh Yeahf7A+ **
204Double Topf7A ***
205Right Hand Manf6C+ ***
 HALF MOON BOULDER 
207The Rise And Fall Of The Splasherf7A+ *
208Nosejob *V2 6a
209Cyrano Wall *V2 6a
210Headmare *HS 4b
211Strongbow *E3 5b *
212Valley Solicitor *E5 6a **
213Left Arete *V4 5c
214Porthole Arete *VB 4a
215Square Eagle *V3 ? *
216Rift Arete Traverse *f6C+ ***
217Dusk Gully *VD
218Chockahunas *VB 7b ***
219The Guy's High *E2 5b
220So Illicit *HVS 4c
221Percy's Depression *E4 6b **
222Alison's Chagrin *E3 5b
223The Reubenite *E5 5c ***
224Hinge and Bracket *E3 5b
225The Open Gate *E3 5c
226Five Alive *E6 6a **
227Through Air *E5 6b *
228Loss and Attachment *E3 5c ***
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer AMorris

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Please wipe your feet before setting off on problems and routes at Huntsham. I was at the Slug today and lots of the footholds were ingrained with mud. The rock is a touch soft there and it'll erode quickly if we don't all do our bit to look after it. Climbing with 'quiet' feet will really help too. Thank you - doing this'll be better for the rock and everyone who enjoys climbing on it! :-)
Joyce - 12/Oct/14
Access seems to be a problem once again, see my post on the forum. Please avoid or keep a low profile for the time-being, I'm hopeful formal access can be agreed.
tombeasley - 21/Aug/14
(8.6.14) I enjoyed my visit today. The main crag is fairly diry and overgrown but the boulders have been well maintained by someone. Darkside, Satellite, Sliced Slug, Bread Pudding and Rift boulders all appeared clean with good landings free from brambles. Thankyou to whoever has been doing this.
disturbed_one51 - 08/Jun/14
I've put a topo for bivi buttress on here if its of any use to anyone. http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-you-go-down-to-woods-today.html
AJM - 06/Nov/13
BMC status on this crag is that it's banned, I've heard through the grapevine that people have climbed here multiple times without the landowner kicking up much fuss. Is this crag still viable to climb without getting a telling off or is it worth steering clear still?
Cypher - 01/Jun/12
Was here on Sunday (04/12/11) massivly overgrown but if you start at sugarlump boulder the path is clear.
Croakinglizard - 07/Dec/11
Some awsome problems, and only an hour from Bristol. Quite overgrown with brambles so wouldn't recomend wearing shorts!
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Apr/11
Enjoyed this visit 17/03/10. Pretty brambly but worth the effort. The flakes on the Slug was my highlight.
Gareth Bowen - 17/Mar/10
went bouldering here July 2009. Overgrown paths, so wear trousers and bring some cutters or a big bashing stick! Sometimes difficult to find the boulders because of all the brambles, but worth perservering as the rock is surprisingly solid (except where it's not!) Went to the sugarlump, dark side and rift boulder, all of which are worth the effort!
Jeronimo - 11/Jul/09
We got asked to leave Huntsham Crag today; 20-03-09. Apparently its private property & the land owners are intending to email all the local climbing clubs & indoor walls to this effect. Has anybody got any comments on that?
them - 20/Mar/09
definetly is worth a visit. in recent issue of climber mag and there is an online topo by golden bicep. Some brilliant problems and very quite. All the good problems are clean and never mossy.
BenNorman - 30/Nov/08