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These details were last updated on 07/Apr/2013

Huntsham Crags

Gloucestershire, ENGLAND

Climbs 164 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 129m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Line of smallish grit-like sandstone-conglomerate crags and freestanding boulders, certainly worth a look, but be aware of access problems. Rarely busy. Single pitch routes to 15 metres.

Martin Crockers' 'The Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean' (Climbers' Club, 2006) is definitive for the main crag. The boulders are another matter!

Many routes cannot be protected. Crocker suggests a top-rope then solo ethic, but please rig to avoid eroding the edges.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

0.0mm rain
Sun
7 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
23 kph

5.8mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
33 kph

9.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
10 °C
23 kph

6.9mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
19 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Sandstone outcrops of the Forest of Dean (2006),
Out of print: Symonds Yat (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE CRAG  
2Riverview WallE4 5c 1
3Riverview RampHVS 4b *2
4Riverside CruiseE6 6c ***1
5The Overnight StayE1 5b 4
6Crack DancerHVS 5b *6
7Song ChildVS 4c *7
8Master's of the PunyverseE6 6c *1
9The Final WordE4 5c *1
10The PebblemasterE5 6a *2
11WaferE3 5b 1
12PenumbraD 1
13The Golden ValleyE2 5c 2
14ShadowlandsE5 5c ***5
15Sharing the DarknessE6 6a  
16Blinded by the LightE6 6b ** 
17Deep Forest DesiresE5 6b  
18Lettuce ClimbHVS 5b  
19GunpointE2 5b 14
20Deep SpaceS 4a 8
21Beside the SeasideS 4a 10
22Herpe's Hogmonay HangoverHS 4b 6
23ProboscisVS 5a ***8
24Sausage on a StickE6 6a *6
25In The MistE4 6b 1
26GorillaVS 4b 2
27FinVS 5c 4
28Club FootVS 4c 4
29AlphaS 4a 6
30Gîte de FranceHS 4a 6
31SnippetE1 5b 3
32Blood SuckerVD 6
33Give me lightE1 5c 37
34No BetaE1 5a 1
35Feather Light SlabE3 5b *1
36FeatherweightE4 5c **1
37A Camera-Shy GuyE1 5a 1
38While the Cat's AwayE2 5b 1
39Take a PebbleVS 4c *2
40The ChristeningE2 5b *1
41Forty-three TodayE2 5b 2
42The Selfish ChildE3 5b 2
43Wan-tunS 2
44Not Another Roadside AttractionS 4a 1
45TwixVS 4c *3
46Valley of the KingsHVS 5a 4
47Pharoah's TombD 3
48Glory Days *E4 5c *1
49WoodlandsE3 5c 1
50firstfootS 4a 2
51Pebble PracticeV1 5c ***12
52Slight AreteV0- 4c 6
53Half-CrackedV0- 4c 6
54The Braille Snail *E5 6a 2
55Vein WallV0 5a 7
56Bustin' *E4 6b **6
57The NoseV0- 3c 3
58Nose PickerV2 6a 2
59Claim 2 FameE7 6c 6
60Friend In Kneed *E4 5c  
61The BeakV1 5c 4
62Rough sleepers initiative *E2 6a 1
63It Snapped!V5 6b 3
64Kneeded Friends *E5 6b *1
65Oral Rope Burn EliminateV2 5c 1
66BadgeredV1 5c 2
67Payback TimeE6 6b ** 
68Speaking in TonguesE5 6a *** 
69Appointment With BeerE5 6b 12
70Late RiserE5 5c **3
71Kippered *E4 6b *1
72Tequila Sunrise *E5 6b **1
 BIVI BUTTRESS BOULDERING  
74Bivi Buttress Traversef7A+ *1
75Bivi groovef6B+ **9
76The Hunter's Rooff8A ***2
77Half Projectf7C ***1
78The Rise of the Planet of the Youth *f8A ***1
79Between the Linesf7B+ **5
80Phil McRackinf7B+ *3
81Under Stars is Bestf6B+ *27
82Peckitt rooff7C **8
 CHOCKSTONE BUTTRESS BOULDERING  
84Alex's Rooff7A **44
85Alex's Roof Directf7A **5
86Beware the Fascistf7B **6
87Beware the Fascist Directf7A+ ***1
88Shoehornf7A+ ** 
 Climb nameGradex
 SLICED SLUG BOULDER  
90Stay on ItE4 6c * 
91The Impalef5+ 10
92Golden Bicep (standing start)f6B+ 29
93Golden Bicep (sit start)f6C+ **70
94The FlakesE1 5c ***72
95Underflake (sit start)f6A ***19
96Underflakef5+ ***8
97Upper flake (sit start)f6A+ ***14
98Upper flakef6A ***7
99Slugtastef6C+ *7
100Aimlessf7A **1
101Slug It Outf7A *2
102Silke Smoothf6A 2
103Slugback Riderf6B+ *2
104Ames Lowf7A+ ***40
105Aims Low - Slugtastef7B **2
106Ames Highf7A+ **1
107Low Blowf7B+ **22
108Left hookf7B+ ***4
 BREAD PUDDING BOULDER  
110In Lardf6A+ *3
111Samuel Redbreast S/Sf6B+ * 
112Bread Puddingf5+ ***26
113Harpers Bazaarf6A+ *3
114Pudding Basinf6C **10
115Lick the Bowlf6C **34
116Creamf6C+ *9
117The Portholef7A+ **16
118Bowl Rimf6A ***41
119Bowl rim extensionf6C+ *4
120The Gnarly Traversef7C *4
121Doss Roof Rightf6A *6
 THE RIFT BOULDER  
123Crack Right, Rift Boulderf4 *16
124Rib Ticklerf6B *1
125Rift Crackf6B 12
126Atrium bulgef6C ** 
127Atrium Projectf7A **2
128Rift Aretef6B+ 11
129Rift Wall Traversef7A *11
130Pebbles Revengef6B+ *3
131Mid Riftf4 5
132Rift Rightf7C+  
133Rift valley low startf6B+  
134The Bulgef4+ 10
135End the riftf4+ 2
136Sapling Finishf3+ 3b 1
 CUBE BOULDER  
138Rocketf6C+ **31
139Cube left arêtef5+ 3
140Left Eye Socketf7A+ **8
141Right Eye Socketf7A ***10
142One More Gof6C **5
143The Edgef7A **2
 SATELLITE BOULDER  
145The Stepsf2+ 2c 2
146Satellite Wall Low Traversef6A *11
147Satellite Wall Mid Traversef5 **17
148Satellite Wall High Traversef5+ *7
149Rumpy pumpyf6B *4
150The Jugsf4+ 38
151Satellite Wallf5 *35
152The Scoopf6A **43
153Oh Yeahf7A+ **1
154Double Topf7A ***2
155Right Hand Manf6C+ ***5
 HALF MOON BOULDER  
157The Rise And Fall Of The Splasherf7A+ *13
 THE DARK SIDE BOULDER  
159Left Arête (Darkside Boulder)f6A+ 24
160Left Arete (S/S)f6C ***4
161Darkside Traversef6B+ ***8
162The Edgesf6A 32
163Pothole Arêtef4 35
 LITTLE NOSES BLUFF BOULDERING  
165Retrousse WallV0 4c 1
166Rockover WallV0 5b 2
167The HooterV1 5c 2
 TO BE LOCATED  
169The Arete *f5+ 5c 1
170The Mummy *VS 4c 2
171The Devil May Care *E8 6c ***1
172The Wonder *HVS 5a 1
173Whitewash Wall *E3 5c 1
174Mat Trepass *E5 6a **1
175Triple Lock *E5 6b **1
176Godfather Of Rock *E6 6b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

The area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so.

Please report any access difficulties to the BMC."

The above comes from the BMC RAD as of 5th March 2009. If you read the comments below, you will see an example of this new development with the landowners. If you do venture to this crag and have problems, please also post here as well as notifying the BMC.

From the Symonds Yat car parks, walk northwards down the road past a short open section and the Baptist Chapel. A bit further on, but prior to reaching the fork, take a signed footpath to the right marked Wye Valley Walk. After just over 100 yards another path doubles back to the right uphill, leading directly to Rainy Day Buttress.

There is also space for one car at a small layby on the left as you approach Symonds Yat at the start of the footpath.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dan Savory

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I've put a topo for bivi buttress on here if its of any use to anyone. http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-you-go-down-to-woods-today.html
AJM - 06/Nov/13

BMC status on this crag is that it's banned, I've heard through the grapevine that people have climbed here multiple times without the landowner kicking up much fuss. Is this crag still viable to climb without getting a telling off or is it worth steering clear still?
Cypher - 01/Jun/12

Was here on Sunday (04/12/11) massivly overgrown but if you start at sugarlump boulder the path is clear.
Croakinglizard - 07/Dec/11

Some awsome problems, and only an hour from Bristol. Quite overgrown with brambles so wouldn't recomend wearing shorts!
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Apr/11

Enjoyed this visit 17/03/10. Pretty brambly but worth the effort. The flakes on the Slug was my highlight.
Gareth Bowen - 17/Mar/10

went bouldering here July 2009. Overgrown paths, so wear trousers and bring some cutters or a big bashing stick! Sometimes difficult to find the boulders because of all the brambles, but worth perservering as the rock is surprisingly solid (except where it's not!) Went to the sugarlump, dark side and rift boulder, all of which are worth the effort!
Jeronimo - 11/Jul/09

We got asked to leave Huntsham Crag today; 20-03-09. Apparently its private property & the land owners are intending to email all the local climbing clubs & indoor walls to this effect. Has anybody got any comments on that?
them - 20/Mar/09

definetly is worth a visit. in recent issue of climber mag and there is an online topo by golden bicep. Some brilliant problems and very quite. All the good problems are clean and never mossy.
BenNorman - 30/Nov/08