Climbs 218
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 129m a.s.l
Faces E

Chris high on the classic Give Me Light V1 © MorganPreece

Crag features

Line of smallish grit-like sandstone-conglomerate crags and freestanding boulders, certainly worth a look, but be aware of access problems. Rarely busy. Single pitch routes to 15 metres.

Martin Crockers' 'The Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean' (Climbers' Club, 2006) is definitive for the main crag. The boulders are another matter!

Many routes cannot be protected. Crocker suggests a top-rope then solo ethic, but please rig to avoid eroding the edges.

Approach notes

It has been stated by the landowners that climbing on these crags are restricted due to rubbish being left at the crag and a reported fatality. However this fatality has not been confirmed as of 22AUG14, and the general consensus is that the littering is not the work of local climbers of the crag. Having said this, please respect the landowners decision and if you do venture down to the crag be sure to keep a low profile and collect any litter you see to ensure negotiations with the owners are successful.

"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

The area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so.

Please report any access difficulties to the BMC."

The above comes from the BMC RAD as of 5th March 2009. If you read the comments below, you will see an example of this new development with the landowners. If you do venture to this crag and have problems, please also post here as well as notifying the BMC.

From the Symonds Yat car parks, walk northwards down the road past a short open section and the Baptist Chapel. A bit further on, but prior to reaching the fork, take a signed footpath to the right marked Wye Valley Walk. After just over 100 yards another path doubles back to the right uphill, leading directly to Rainy Day Buttress.

There is also space for one car at a small layby on the left as you approach Symonds Yat at the start of the footpath.

Access Banned

The landowner has informed the BMC that they do not permit climbing. The area contains well used public footpaths (which pass through the crags), but it is claimed that deer stalking takes place between November and March. If you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so. Please report any access difficulties to the BMC.

As with any other crag grades are given for an onsight ascent without pads, worth noting for people climbing big E-grades for other styles of ascents. Maybe highball grades would be useful for some routes these days...
Fiend - 15/Dec/14
Please wipe your feet before setting off on problems and routes at Huntsham. I was at the Slug today and lots of the footholds were ingrained with mud. The rock is a touch soft there and it'll erode quickly if we don't all do our bit to look after it. Climbing with 'quiet' feet will really help too. Thank you - doing this'll be better for the rock and everyone who enjoys climbing on it! :-)
Joyce - 12/Oct/14
Access seems to be a problem once again, see my post on the forum. Please avoid or keep a low profile for the time-being, I'm hopeful formal access can be agreed.
tombeasley - 21/Aug/14
(8.6.14) I enjoyed my visit today. The main crag is fairly diry and overgrown but the boulders have been well maintained by someone. Darkside, Satellite, Sliced Slug, Bread Pudding and Rift boulders all appeared clean with good landings free from brambles. Thankyou to whoever has been doing this.
disturbed_one51 - 08/Jun/14
I've put a topo for bivi buttress on here if its of any use to anyone.
AJM - 06/Nov/13
BMC status on this crag is that it's banned, I've heard through the grapevine that people have climbed here multiple times without the landowner kicking up much fuss. Is this crag still viable to climb without getting a telling off or is it worth steering clear still?
Cypher - 01/Jun/12
Was here on Sunday (04/12/11) massivly overgrown but if you start at sugarlump boulder the path is clear.
Croakinglizard - 07/Dec/11
Some awsome problems, and only an hour from Bristol. Quite overgrown with brambles so wouldn't recomend wearing shorts!
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Apr/11
Enjoyed this visit 17/03/10. Pretty brambly but worth the effort. The flakes on the Slug was my highlight.
Gareth Bowen - 17/Mar/10
went bouldering here July 2009. Overgrown paths, so wear trousers and bring some cutters or a big bashing stick! Sometimes difficult to find the boulders because of all the brambles, but worth perservering as the rock is surprisingly solid (except where it's not!) Went to the sugarlump, dark side and rift boulder, all of which are worth the effort!
Jeronimo - 11/Jul/09
We got asked to leave Huntsham Crag today; 20-03-09. Apparently its private property & the land owners are intending to email all the local climbing clubs & indoor walls to this effect. Has anybody got any comments on that?
them - 20/Mar/09
definetly is worth a visit. in recent issue of climber mag and there is an online topo by golden bicep. Some brilliant problems and very quite. All the good problems are clean and never mossy.
BenNorman - 30/Nov/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Huntsham West 
2KipperedE4 6b *2
 Sugarlump Boulder 
4It Snapped!V5 4
5BadgeredV1 3
 Dark side Boulder 
7Left Arete (S/S)f6C ***9
8Left Arête (Darkside Boulder)f6A+ 38
9The Edgesf6A 57
10Give Me LightE1 5c 70
11Pothole Arêtef4 61
12Darkside Traversef6B+ ***12
 Isolated Buttress 
14A Camera-Shy Guy
E1 5a 2
15While the Cat's Away
E2 5b 2
 Rainy Day Buttress 
17The Devil May CareE8 6c ***1
18Just Grab It!E6 6b **2
19Blood SuckerVD 9
E1 5b 5
 Mills Buttress 
22AlphaS 4a 7
23No BetaE1 5a 2
24Gîte de France
HS 4a 8
 Upper Edge 
26In The Mist
E4 6b 3
VS 4b 4
VS 5c 6
29Club Foot
VS 4c 5
30Take a Pebble
VS 4c *3
31The Selfish Child
E3 5b 3
32Forty-three Today
E2 5b 3
S 4a 3
 Choral Buttress 
35The Braille Snail
E5 6a **3
E3 5c 2
37Bustin'E4 6b **9
38Godfather Of RockE6 6b ***2
39Song ChildVS 4c *8
40Crack DancerHVS 5b *7
41Masters of the PunyverseE6 6c ***3
 Elder Buttress 
43Sausage on a Stick
E6 6a *8
44Feather Light Slab
E3 5b *3
45FeatherweightE4 5c **3
46Claim 2 FameE7 6c 10
47Deep Space
S 4a 11
48Beside the Seaside
S 4a 12
49Herpe's Hogmonay Hangover
HS 4b 8
 Crown Buttress 
 Proboscis Buttress 
VS 5a ***11
 Little Noses Bluff Bouldering 
54Retrousse WallV0 1
55Rockover WallV0 3
56The HooterV1 3
 Bergerac Buttress 
58Late Riser
E5 5c **12
59Appointment With BeerE5 6b ***27
60Tequila SunriseE5 6b **3
61The Christening
E2 5b *2
E2 5b 17
63Samuel Redbreast S/Sf6B+ *1
 chockstone buttress 
65Crouching the Log-up-meE6 6b **1
66Essence of BeingE6 6b/c ***1
67Payback TimeE6 6b **1
68Glory Days
E4 5c *4
69Triple LockE5 6b **5
70Alex's Rooff7A **52
71Alex's Roof Directf7A **5
72Beware the Fascistf7B **6
73Beware the Fascist Directf7A+ ***2
74Shoehornf7A+ **8
75Slight Arete
V0- 10
V0- 10
77Vein Wall
V0 11
78Chockahunasf7B ***2
 Rift Boulder 
80Rib Ticklerf6B *2
81The Bulgef4+ 16
82Rift Crackf6B 23
83Atrium bulgef6C **3
84Atrium Projectf7A **5
85Rift Wall Traversef7A *17
86Rift Aretef6B+ 15
87Pebbles Revengef6B+ *7
88Mid Riftf4 8
89Crack Right, Rift Boulderf4 *21
90Rift Valley Low Startf6B+  
91Rift Rightf7C+  
92End the riftf4+ 3
93Sapling Finishf3+ 3
 Bread Pudding Boulder 
95In Lardf6A+ *4
96Bread Puddingf5+ ***57
97Bread Pudding Dynof7C  
98Pudding Basinf6C **18
99The Portholef7A+ **33
100Lick the Bowlf6C **56
101Bowl rim extensionf6C+ *7
102Bowl Rimf6A ***75
103Creamf6C+ *25
104Harpers Bazaarf6A+ *8
105The Gnarly Traversef7C *4
106Doss Roof Rightf6A *6
 Sliced slug boulder 
108Stay on ItE4 6c *2
109The ImpaleE1 5b 17
110Golden Bicep (standing start)f6B+ 59
111Golden Bicep (sit start)f6C+ **114
112Golden Undercutf6C+ 5
113The FlakesE1 5c 103
114Underflakef5+ ***19
115Underflake (sit start)f6A ***54
116We're Chuffin' Awesome... and Other Stories!f7A 16
117Right Flakef6B *20
118Upper flakef6A ***14
119Upper flake (sit start)f6A+ ***42
120Aimes wolf7A+ **19
121Korkyf7A 4
122Aimlessf7A **8
123Ames More or Lessf7A 5
124SlugtasteE4 6a 19
125Ames Lowf7A+ ***66
126Ames Low - Slugtastef7B **4
127Left hookf7B+ ***7
128Low Blowf7B+ **27
129Ames Highf7A+ **14
130High Blowf7B+ **5
131Ames Super High Wayf7A+ ***2
132The Loop8a **33
133Lettuce Climb
HVS 5b 1
134Slugback RiderE2 6a *4
135Slug It OutE3 6b *4
136Silke Smoothf6A 6
 Shadow Boulder 
D 3
139The Golden Valley
E2 5c 3
E5 5c ***7
141Sharing the DarknessE6 6a 1
142Blinded by the LightE6 6b **1
143Deep Forest Desires
E5 6b 1
 Bivi Buttress 
145Mat TrepassE5 6a **5
146Through AirE5 6b *4
147Five AliveE6 6a **4
148Rough Sleepers InitiativeE2 6a 3
149Friend In KneedE4 5c 1
150Kneeded FriendsE5 6b *2
151Speaking in TonguesE5 6a **2
152The Overnight Stay
E1 5b 8
153Grated Armf6C 1
154Short and Steepf6B 13
155Bivi Groove Leftf7A+ 7
156Bivi groovef6B+ **17
157Sand Smoked Baconf6B+ *10
158Goliath Standf7C+ 2
159Goliathf8A+ **1
160The Hunter's Rooff8A ***3
161Hunter's Roof Standf7C ***1
162Between the Linesf7B+ **29
163Phil McRackinf7B+ *6
164Release the Krakenf7B+  
165Peckitt rooff7C **21
166Switching Lanesf7C *3
167Under Stars is Bestf6B+ 35
168Bivi Buttress Traversef7A+ *6
169End of the Linef6C+ *9
 The Boulders 
E3 5b 2
172Not Another Roadside Attraction
S 4a 2
S 3
 Bow Buttress 
VS 4c *4
 The Pyramid 
177Pharoah's Tomb
D 4
178The Mummy
VS 4c 3
179Valley of the Kings
HVS 5a 5
180The Wonder
HVS 5a 2
 Ruin Wall 
182The Pebblemaster
E5 6a *3
183Whitewash Wall
E3 5c 2
 Final Buttress 
185The Final Word
E4 5c *2
 The Sponge 
187Riverside Cruise
E6 6c ***2
188The Aretef5+ 4
190Riverview Ramp
HVS 4b *3
191Riverview Wall
E4 5c 2
192Pebble Practice
V1 ***23
193Riverside ReachV1 * 
194The Nose
V0- 3
195Nose Picker
V2 3
196The Beak
V1 5
197Oral Rope Burn EliminateV2 1
 Cube boulder 
199Rocketf6C **50
200Cube left arêtef5+ 9
201Left Eye Socketf7A+ **12
202Right Eye Socketf7A ***16
203One More Gof6C **10
204The Edgef7A **4
 Satellite boulder 
206The Stepsf2+ 3
207Left Aretef5 6
208Satellite Wall Low Traversef6A *17
209Satellite Wall Mid Traversef5 **29
210Satellite Wall High Traversef5+ *11
211Rumpy pumpyf6B *4
212The Jugsf4+ 60
213Satellite Wallf5 *57
214The Scoopf6A **61
215Oh Yeahf7A+ **2
216Double Topf7A ***6
217Right Hand Manf6C+ ***13
 Half moon boulder 
219The Rise And Fall Of The Splasherf7A+ *16
220NosejobV2 2
221Cyrano WallV2 1
HS 4b 3
E3 5b *3
224Valley Solicitor
E5 6a **3
225Square EagleV3 *1
226Dusk Gully
VD 2
227The Guy's HighE2 5b 3
228So IllicitHVS 4c 3
229Percy's DepressionE4 6b **3
230Alison's ChagrinE3 5b 3
231The ReubeniteE5 5c ***3
232Hinge and BracketE3 5b 3
233The Open GateE3 5c 3
234Loss and Attachment
E3 5c ***2
235Heart for Pilgrimage
E4 5c *2
236Legalized Grass
E2 5b 2
237Wired for Wood
E3 6a 2
E2 5b 2
239Imagine the Sea beneath Your Feet
E3 5c 2
240Up, Up And Away *f5+  
241Not Another 'One of the Best Climbers in the Country' *
E1 5a 1
242Media + climbers Don't Mix *
E3 6a 1
243No Font 5 'Ere *f7A **1
244Isaac's Blessing *E6 6b **1
245The Night Shelter *E4 6a **1
246Bara Brith *f7B **3
247Glancing Blow *f7B **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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