Huntsham Crags

Climbs 212 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 129m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Line of smallish grit-like sandstone-conglomerate crags and freestanding boulders, certainly worth a look, but be aware of access problems. Rarely busy. Single pitch routes to 15 metres.

Martin Crockers' 'The Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean' (Climbers' Club, 2006) is definitive for the main crag. The boulders are another matter!

Many routes cannot be protected. Crocker suggests a top-rope then solo ethic, but please rig to avoid eroding the edges.

Approach notes
It has been stated by the landowners that climbing on these crags are restricted due to rubbish being left at the crag and a reported fatality. However this fatality has not been confirmed as of 22AUG14, and the general consensus is that the littering is not the work of local climbers of the crag. Having said this, please respect the landowners decision and if you do venture down to the crag be sure to keep a low profile and collect any litter you see to ensure negotiations with the owners are successful.

"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

The area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so.

Please report any access difficulties to the BMC."

The above comes from the BMC RAD as of 5th March 2009. If you read the comments below, you will see an example of this new development with the landowners. If you do venture to this crag and have problems, please also post here as well as notifying the BMC.

From the Symonds Yat car parks, walk northwards down the road past a short open section and the Baptist Chapel. A bit further on, but prior to reaching the fork, take a signed footpath to the right marked Wye Valley Walk. After just over 100 yards another path doubles back to the right uphill, leading directly to Rainy Day Buttress.

There is also space for one car at a small layby on the left as you approach Symonds Yat at the start of the footpath.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Sandstone outcrops of the Forest of Dean (2006),
Out of print: Symonds Yat (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 HUNTSHAM WEST  
2KipperedE4 6b *1
 SUGARLUMP BOULDER  
4It Snapped!V5 6b 3
5BadgeredV1 5c 2
 DARK SIDE BOULDER  
7Left Arete (S/S)f6C ***5
8Left Arête (Darkside Boulder)f6A+ 33
9The Edgesf6A 49
10Give Me LightE1 5c 61
11Pothole Arêtef4 52
12Darkside Traversef6B+ ***10
 ISOLATED BUTTRESS  
14A Camera-Shy GuyE1 5a 1
15While the Cat's AwayE2 5b 1
 RAINY DAY BUTTRESS  
17The Devil May CareE8 6c ***1
18Just Grab It!E6 6b **1
19Blood SuckerVD 8
20SnippetE1 5b 4
 MILLS BUTTRESS  
22AlphaS 4a 6
23No BetaE1 5a 1
24Gîte de FranceHS 4a 6
 UPPER EDGE  
26In The MistE4 6b 2
27GorillaVS 4b 3
28FinVS 5c 5
29Club FootVS 4c 4
30Take a PebbleVS 4c *2
31The Selfish ChildE3 5b 2
32Forty-three TodayE2 5b 2
33FirstfootS 4a 2
 CHORAL BUTTRESS  
35The Braille SnailE5 6a **2
36WoodlandsE3 5c 1
37Bustin'E4 6b **8
38Godfather Of RockE6 6b ***1
39Song ChildVS 4c *7
40Crack DancerHVS 5b *6
41Masters of the PunyverseE6 6c ***2
 ELDER BUTTRESS  
43Sausage on a StickE6 6a *6
44Feather Light SlabE3 5b *1
45FeatherweightE4 5c **1
46Claim 2 FameE7 6c 8
47Deep SpaceS 4a 8
48Beside the SeasideS 4a 10
49Herpe's Hogmonay HangoverHS 4b 7
 CROWN BUTTRESS  
 PROBOSCIS BUTTRESS  
52ProboscisVS 5a ***10
 LITTLE NOSES BLUFF BOULDERING  
54Retrousse WallV0 4c 1
55Rockover WallV0 5b 3
56The HooterV1 5c 3
 BERGERAC BUTTRESS  
58Late RiserE5 5c **10
59Appointment With BeerE5 6b ***24
60Tequila SunriseE5 6b **2
61The ChristeningE2 5b *1
62GunpointE2 5b 16
63Samuel Redbreast S/Sf6B+ * 
 CHOCKSTONE BUTTRESS  
65Crouching the Log-up-meE6 6b ** 
66Essence of BeingE6 6b/c *** 
67Payback TimeE6 6b ** 
68Glory DaysE4 5c *3
69Triple LockE5 6b **4
70Alex's Rooff7A **51
71Alex's Roof Directf7A **5
72Beware the Fascistf7B **6
73Beware the Fascist Directf7A+ ***2
74Shoehornf7A+ **6
75Slight AreteV0- 4c 9
76Half-CrackedV0- 4c 9
77Vein WallV0 5a 10
78Chockahunasf7B ***2
 RIFT BOULDER  
80Rib Ticklerf6B *2
81The Bulgef4+ 14
82Rift Crackf6B 21
83Atrium bulgef6C **3
84Atrium Projectf7A **3
85Rift Wall Traversef7A *16
86Rift Aretef6B+ 13
87Pebbles Revengef6B+ *6
88Mid Riftf4 5
89Crack Right, Rift Boulderf4 *20
90Rift Valley Low Startf6B+  
91Rift Rightf7C+  
92End the riftf4+ 3
93Sapling Finishf3+ 3b 3
 BREAD PUDDING BOULDER  
95In Lardf6A+ *4
96Bread Puddingf5+ ***45
97Bread Pudding Dynof7C  
98Pudding Basinf6C **16
99The Portholef7A+ **27
100Lick the Bowlf6C **52
101Bowl rim extensionf6C+ *7
102Bowl Rimf6A ***59
103Creamf6C+ *21
104Harpers Bazaarf6A+ *7
105The Gnarly Traversef7C *4
106Doss Roof Rightf6A *6
 SLICED SLUG BOULDER  
108Stay on ItE4 6c * 
109The ImpaleE1 5b 13
110Golden Bicep (standing start)f6B+ 49
111Golden Bicep (sit start)f6C+ **97
112Golden Undercutf6C+ 5
113The FlakesE1 5c 90
114Underflakef5+ ***13
115Underflake (sit start)f6A ***47
116We're Chuffin' Awesome... and Other Stories!f7A 16
117Right Flakef6B *16
118Upper flakef6A ***12
119Upper flake (sit start)f6A+ ***37
120Aimes wolf7A+ **10
121Korkyf7A 2
122Aimlessf7A **5
123Ames More or Lessf7A 5
124SlugtasteE4 6a 14
125Ames Lowf7A+ ***60
126Ames Low - Slugtastef7B **4
127Left hookf7B+ ***7
128Low Blowf7B+ **25
129Ames Highf7A+ **11
130High Blowf7B+ **2
131Ames Super High Wayf7A+ ***2
132The Loop8a **25
133Lettuce ClimbHVS 5b  
134Slugback RiderE2 6a *2
135Slug It OutE3 6b *3
136Silke Smoothf6A 4
 SHADOW BOULDER  
138PenumbraD 1
139The Golden ValleyE2 5c 2
140ShadowlandsE5 5c ***5
141Sharing the DarknessE6 6a  
142Blinded by the LightE6 6b ** 
143Deep Forest DesiresE5 6b  
 BIVI BUTTRESS  
145Mat TrepassE5 6a **3
146Through AirE5 6b *3
147Five AliveE6 6a **3
148Rough Sleepers InitiativeE2 6a 1
149Friend In KneedE4 5c  
150Kneeded FriendsE5 6b *1
151Speaking in TonguesE5 6a ** 
152The Overnight StayE1 5b 6
153Grated Armf6C 1
154Short and Steepf6B 8
155Bivi Groove Leftf7A+ 8
156Bivi groovef6B+ **17
157Sand Smoked Baconf6B+ *8
158Goliath Standf7C+ 2
159Goliathf8A+ **1
160The Hunter's Rooff8A ***3
161Half Projectf7C ***1
162Between the Linesf7B+ **27
163Phil McRackinf7B+ *6
164Release the Krakenf7B+  
165Peckitt rooff7C **12
166Switching Lanesf7C *2
167Under Stars is Bestf6B+ 6a 34
168Bivi Buttress Traversef7A+ *6
169End of the Linef6C+ *7
 THE BOULDERS  
171WaferE3 5b 1
172Not Another Roadside AttractionS 4a 1
173Wan-tunS 2
 BOW BUTTRESS  
175TwixVS 4c *3
 THE PYRAMID  
177Pharoah's TombD 3
178The MummyVS 4c 2
179Valley of the KingsHVS 5a 4
180The WonderHVS 5a 1
 RUIN WALL  
182The PebblemasterE5 6a *2
183Whitewash WallE3 5c 1
 FINAL BUTTRESS  
185The Final WordE4 5c *1
 THE SPONGE  
187Riverside CruiseE6 6c ***1
188The Aretef5+ 5c 3
 RIVERSIDE  
190Riverview RampHVS 4b *2
191Riverview WallE4 5c 1
192Pebble PracticeV1 5c ***22
193Riverside ReachV1 5+ * 
194The NoseV0- 3c 3
195Nose PickerV2 6a 3
196The BeakV1 5c 5
197Oral Rope Burn EliminateV2 5c 1
 CUBE BOULDER  
199Rocketf6C **48
200Cube left arêtef5+ 9
201Left Eye Socketf7A+ **11
202Right Eye Socketf7A ***12
203One More Gof6C **7
204The Edgef7A **3
 SATELLITE BOULDER  
206The Stepsf2+ 2c 2
207Left Aretef5 1
208Porthole AreteVB 4a 1
209Satellite Wall Low Traversef6A *15
210Satellite Wall Mid Traversef5 **25
211Satellite Wall High Traversef5+ *11
212Rumpy pumpyf6B *4
213The Jugsf4+ 56
214Satellite Wallf5 *47
215The Scoopf6A **53
216Oh Yeahf7A+ **2
217Double Topf7A ***5
218Right Hand Manf6C+ ***11
 HALF MOON BOULDER  
220The Rise And Fall Of The Splasherf7A+ *15
221NosejobV2 6a 2
222Cyrano WallV2 6a 1
223HeadmareHS 4b 2
224StrongbowE3 5b *2
225Valley SolicitorE5 6a **2
226Square EagleV3 ? *1
227Dusk GullyVD 1
228The Guy's HighE2 5b 2
229So IllicitHVS 4c 2
230Percy's DepressionE4 6b **2
231Alison's ChagrinE3 5b 2
232The ReubeniteE5 5c ***2
233Hinge and BracketE3 5b 2
234The Open GateE3 5c 2
235Loss and AttachmentE3 5c ***1
236Heart for PilgrimageE4 5c *1
237Legalized GrassE2 5b 1
238Wired for WoodE3 6a 1
239ThongE2 5b 1
240Imagine the Sea beneath Your FeetE3 5c 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
As with any other crag grades are given for an onsight ascent without pads, worth noting for people climbing big E-grades for other styles of ascents. Maybe highball grades would be useful for some routes these days...
Fiend - 15/Dec/14
Please wipe your feet before setting off on problems and routes at Huntsham. I was at the Slug today and lots of the footholds were ingrained with mud. The rock is a touch soft there and it'll erode quickly if we don't all do our bit to look after it. Climbing with 'quiet' feet will really help too. Thank you - doing this'll be better for the rock and everyone who enjoys climbing on it! :-)
Joyce - 12/Oct/14
Access seems to be a problem once again, see my post on the forum. Please avoid or keep a low profile for the time-being, I'm hopeful formal access can be agreed.
tombeasley - 21/Aug/14
(8.6.14) I enjoyed my visit today. The main crag is fairly diry and overgrown but the boulders have been well maintained by someone. Darkside, Satellite, Sliced Slug, Bread Pudding and Rift boulders all appeared clean with good landings free from brambles. Thankyou to whoever has been doing this.
disturbed_one51 - 08/Jun/14
I've put a topo for bivi buttress on here if its of any use to anyone. http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-you-go-down-to-woods-today.html
AJM - 06/Nov/13
BMC status on this crag is that it's banned, I've heard through the grapevine that people have climbed here multiple times without the landowner kicking up much fuss. Is this crag still viable to climb without getting a telling off or is it worth steering clear still?
Cypher - 01/Jun/12
Was here on Sunday (04/12/11) massivly overgrown but if you start at sugarlump boulder the path is clear.
Croakinglizard - 07/Dec/11
Some awsome problems, and only an hour from Bristol. Quite overgrown with brambles so wouldn't recomend wearing shorts!
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Apr/11
Enjoyed this visit 17/03/10. Pretty brambly but worth the effort. The flakes on the Slug was my highlight.
Gareth Bowen - 17/Mar/10
went bouldering here July 2009. Overgrown paths, so wear trousers and bring some cutters or a big bashing stick! Sometimes difficult to find the boulders because of all the brambles, but worth perservering as the rock is surprisingly solid (except where it's not!) Went to the sugarlump, dark side and rift boulder, all of which are worth the effort!
Jeronimo - 11/Jul/09
We got asked to leave Huntsham Crag today; 20-03-09. Apparently its private property & the land owners are intending to email all the local climbing clubs & indoor walls to this effect. Has anybody got any comments on that?
them - 20/Mar/09
definetly is worth a visit. in recent issue of climber mag and there is an online topo by golden bicep. Some brilliant problems and very quite. All the good problems are clean and never mossy.
BenNorman - 30/Nov/08