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These details were last updated on 01/May/2014

Huntsham Crags

Gloucestershire, ENGLAND

Climbs 180 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 129m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Line of smallish grit-like sandstone-conglomerate crags and freestanding boulders, certainly worth a look, but be aware of access problems. Rarely busy. Single pitch routes to 15 metres.

Martin Crockers' 'The Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean' (Climbers' Club, 2006) is definitive for the main crag. The boulders are another matter!

Many routes cannot be protected. Crocker suggests a top-rope then solo ethic, but please rig to avoid eroding the edges.

Access notes
"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

The area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so.

Please report any access difficulties to the BMC."

The above comes from the BMC RAD as of 5th March 2009. If you read the comments below, you will see an example of this new development with the landowners. If you do venture to this crag and have problems, please also post here as well as notifying the BMC.

From the Symonds Yat car parks, walk northwards down the road past a short open section and the Baptist Chapel. A bit further on, but prior to reaching the fork, take a signed footpath to the right marked Wye Valley Walk. After just over 100 yards another path doubles back to the right uphill, leading directly to Rainy Day Buttress.

There is also space for one car at a small layby on the left as you approach Symonds Yat at the start of the footpath.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.0mm rain
Sun
18 °C
19 kph

0.6mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
17 kph

2.3mm rain
Cloudy
18 °C
16 kph

8.2mm rain
Cloudy
16 °C
17 kph

0.4mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
13 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Sandstone outcrops of the Forest of Dean (2006),
Out of print: Symonds Yat (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 HUNTSHAM WEST  
2KipperedE4 6b *1
 SUGARLUMP BOULDER  
4It Snapped!V5 6b 3
5BadgeredV1 5c 2
 DARK SIDE BOULDER  
7Left Arete (S/S)f6C ***5
8Left Arête (Darkside Boulder)f6A+ 30
9Give Me LightE1 5c 51
10The Edgesf6A 42
11Pothole Arêtef4 42
12Darkside Traversef6B+ ***9
 ISOLATED BUTTRESS  
14A Camera-Shy GuyE1 5a 1
15While the Cat's AwayE2 5b 1
 RAINY DAY BUTTRESS  
17The Devil May CareE8 6c ***1
18Just Grab It!E6 6b **1
19Blood SuckerVD 7
20SnippetE1 5b 3
 MILLS BUTTRESS  
22AlphaS 4a 6
23No BetaE1 5a 1
24Gîte de FranceHS 4a 6
 UPPER EDGE  
26In The MistE4 6b 1
27GorillaVS 4b 2
28FinVS 5c 4
29Club FootVS 4c 4
30Take a PebbleVS 4c *2
31The Selfish ChildE3 5b 2
32Forty-three TodayE2 5b 2
33FirstfootS 4a 2
 5.5 METRE WALL  
 CHORAL BUTTRESS  
36The Braille SnailE5 6a **2
37WoodlandsE3 5c 1
38Bustin'E4 6b **7
39Godfather Of RockE6 6b ***1
40Song ChildVS 4c *7
41Crack DancerHVS 5b *6
42Masters of the PunyverseE6 6c ***2
 ELDER BUTTRESS  
44Sausage on a StickE6 6a *6
45Feather Light SlabE3 5b *1
46FeatherweightE4 5c **1
47Claim 2 FameE7 6c 7
48Deep SpaceS 4a 8
49Beside the SeasideS 4a 10
50Herpe's Hogmonay HangoverHS 4b 7
 BOULDERS BELOW CROWN BUTTRESS  
 CROWN BUTTRESS  
 PROBOSCIS BUTTRESS  
54ProboscisVS 5a ***8
 LITTLE NOSES BLUFF BOULDERING  
56Retrousse WallV0 4c 1
57Rockover WallV0 5b 3
58The HooterV1 5c 3
 BERGERAC BUTTRESS  
60Late RiserE5 5c **5
61Appointment With BeerE5 6b ***20
62Tequila SunriseE5 6b **2
63The ChristeningE2 5b *1
64GunpointE2 5b 14
65In Lardf6A+ *3
66Samuel Redbreast S/Sf6B+ * 
67Bread Puddingf5+ ***37
68Harpers Bazaarf6A+ *5
69Pudding Basinf6C **15
70Lick the Bowlf6C **44
71Creamf6C+ *16
72The Portholef7A+ **23
73Bowl Rimf6A ***52
 CHOCKSTONE BUTTRESS  
75Payback TimeE6 6b ** 
76Glory DaysE4 5c *3
77Triple LockE5 6b **4
78Alex's Rooff7A **46
79Alex's Roof Directf7A **5
80Beware the Fascistf7B **6
81Beware the Fascist Directf7A+ ***2
82Shoehornf7A+ **1
83Golden Bicep (standing start)f6B+ 37
84Golden Bicep (sit start)f6C+ **77
85Underflake (sit start)f6A ***23
86Underflakef5+ ***10
87Upper flake (sit start)f6A+ ***17
88Upper flakef6A ***10
89Aimlessf7A **3
90Ames Lowf7A+ ***42
91Aims Low - Slugtastef7B **4
92Ames Highf7A+ **4
93Low Blowf7B+ **22
94Left hookf7B+ ***6
95Slight AreteV0- 4c 7
96Half-CrackedV0- 4c 7
97Vein WallV0 5a 8
 RIFT BOULDER  
99Rift Wall Traversef7A *15
100The Bulgef4+ 13
101Rib Ticklerf6B *2
102Rift Crackf6B 19
103Atrium bulgef6C **2
104Atrium Projectf7A **3
105Rift Aretef6B+ 12
106Mid Riftf4 5
 Climb nameGradex
107Rift Valley Low Startf6B+  
108Crack Right, Rift Boulderf4 *19
109Rift Rightf7C+  
110End the riftf4+ 2
111Pebbles Revengef6B+ *6
112Sapling Finishf3+ 3b 2
 BREAD PUDDING BOULDER  
 SLICED SLUG BOULDER  
115Lettuce ClimbHVS 5b  
116Stay on ItE4 6c * 
117The ImpaleE1 5b 12
118The FlakesE1 5c 76
119Right Flakef6B *5
120We're Chuffin' Awesome... and Other Stories!f7A 4
121Ames More or Lessf7A 2
122Ames Super High Wayf7A+ ***2
123SlugtasteE4 6a 13
124Slug It OutE3 6b *2
125Slugback RiderE2 6a *2
126Silke Smoothf6A 2
 SHADOW BOULDER  
128PenumbraD 1
129The Golden ValleyE2 5c 2
130ShadowlandsE5 5c ***5
131Sharing the DarknessE6 6a  
132Blinded by the LightE6 6b ** 
133Deep Forest DesiresE5 6b  
 BIVI BUTTRESS  
135Mat TrepassE5 6a **1
136Rough Sleepers InitiativeE2 6a 1
137Friend In KneedE4 5c  
138Kneeded FriendsE5 6b *1
139Speaking in TonguesE5 6a ** 
140The Overnight StayE1 5b 4
141Bivi Buttress Traversef7A+ *4
142Bivi groovef6B+ **13
143The Hunter's Rooff8A ***2
144Half Projectf7C ***1
145The Rise of the Planet of the Youth *f8A ***1
146Between the Linesf7B+ **15
147Phil McRackinf7B+ *4
148Under Stars is BestE1 6a 29
149Peckitt rooff7C **9
150Bowl rim extensionf6C+ *5
151The Gnarly Traversef7C *4
152Doss Roof Rightf6A *6
 THE BOULDERS  
154WaferE3 5b 1
155Not Another Roadside AttractionS 4a 1
156Wan-tunS 2
 BOW BUTTRESS  
158TwixVS 4c *3
 THE PYRAMID  
160Pharoah's TombD 3
161The MummyVS 4c 2
162Valley of the KingsHVS 5a 4
163The WonderHVS 5a 1
 RUIN WALL  
165The PebblemasterE5 6a *2
166Whitewash WallE3 5c 1
 FINAL BUTTRESS  
168The Final WordE4 5c *1
 THE SPONGE  
170Riverside CruiseE6 6c ***1
171The Aretef5+ 5c 3
 WYE KNOT BOULDER  
 RIVERSIDE  
174Riverview RampHVS 4b *2
175Riverview WallE4 5c 1
176Pebble PracticeV1 5c ***17
177The NoseV0- 3c 3
178Nose PickerV2 6a 3
179The BeakV1 5c 5
180Oral Rope Burn EliminateV2 5c 1
 CUBE BOULDER  
182Rocketf6C+ **38
183Cube left arêtef5+ 5
184Left Eye Socketf7A+ **11
185Right Eye Socketf7A ***11
186One More Gof6C **6
187The Edgef7A **2
 SATELLITE BOULDER  
189The Stepsf2+ 2c 2
190Satellite Wall Low Traversef6A *12
191Satellite Wall Mid Traversef5 **19
192Satellite Wall High Traversef5+ *8
193Rumpy pumpyf6B *4
194The Jugsf4+ 47
195Satellite Wallf5 *41
196The Scoopf6A **46
197Oh Yeahf7A+ **2
198Double Topf7A ***4
199Right Hand Manf6C+ ***5
 HALF MOON BOULDER  
201The Rise And Fall Of The Splasherf7A+ *14
202Bivi groove right *f6C+ *7
203Elliot's Wall *f6C+ *4
204Nosejob *V2 6a 1
205Cyrano Wall *V2 6a 1
206Golden Undercut *f6C+ 1
207Headmare *HS 4b 2
208Strongbow *E3 5b *2
209Valley Solicitor *E5 6a **2
210Left Arete *V4 5c 1
211Porthole Arete *VB 4a 1
212Square Eagle *V3 ? * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
(8.6.14) I enjoyed my visit today. The main crag is fairly diry and overgrown but the boulders have been well maintained by someone. Darkside, Satellite, Sliced Slug, Bread Pudding and Rift boulders all appeared clean with good landings free from brambles. Thankyou to whoever has been doing this.
disturbed_one51 - 08/Jun/14

I've put a topo for bivi buttress on here if its of any use to anyone. http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-you-go-down-to-woods-today.html
AJM - 06/Nov/13

BMC status on this crag is that it's banned, I've heard through the grapevine that people have climbed here multiple times without the landowner kicking up much fuss. Is this crag still viable to climb without getting a telling off or is it worth steering clear still?
Cypher - 01/Jun/12

Was here on Sunday (04/12/11) massivly overgrown but if you start at sugarlump boulder the path is clear.
Croakinglizard - 07/Dec/11

Some awsome problems, and only an hour from Bristol. Quite overgrown with brambles so wouldn't recomend wearing shorts!
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Apr/11

Enjoyed this visit 17/03/10. Pretty brambly but worth the effort. The flakes on the Slug was my highlight.
Gareth Bowen - 17/Mar/10

went bouldering here July 2009. Overgrown paths, so wear trousers and bring some cutters or a big bashing stick! Sometimes difficult to find the boulders because of all the brambles, but worth perservering as the rock is surprisingly solid (except where it's not!) Went to the sugarlump, dark side and rift boulder, all of which are worth the effort!
Jeronimo - 11/Jul/09

We got asked to leave Huntsham Crag today; 20-03-09. Apparently its private property & the land owners are intending to email all the local climbing clubs & indoor walls to this effect. Has anybody got any comments on that?
them - 20/Mar/09

definetly is worth a visit. in recent issue of climber mag and there is an online topo by golden bicep. Some brilliant problems and very quite. All the good problems are clean and never mossy.
BenNorman - 30/Nov/08