Mostly overhanging, single- and multi-pitch routes up to 170ft. For those having a taste for limestone offwidths, overhanging cracks, and similar. The few routes below E1 are reasonable, but the quality is at the higher end.
Routes are located all around the peninsula, so aspect is up to you.
The belay stake for the routes in the vicinity of Man Bites Dog is in place 29/7/14. It is about 1.5m R of the path when descending seawards (level with a limestone slab on the cliff top to the R).
New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml
Park as for Berry Head Quarry.
Take the coastal path on the seaward side of the car park; about 100m past a stone stile is a path leading L to a wave-cut platform (Cradle Rock Buttress). Continue S on the coastal path for about 5 mins to the flat headland, with a rocky causeway running out to the monolith - Durl Rock.
|2||Dooby Ducks Disco Bus||HVS 5b|
|4||Gravity's Angel||E4 5c *|
|5||Man bites dog||E2 5b||1|
|6||Dog Bites Back||E1 5b|
|7||Star Trekking||E4 6a **|
|8||La Rage||E2 5b *||2|
|9||Chuck Berry||E1 5b|
|10||Berry Red Wall||VS 4b||1|
|11||Fowler's Dolly Mixture||HS 4a||1|
|12||Lady of Shame||E1 5b *||3|
|13||Lap it up||E2 5b||1|
|14||Flange Pan||E2 5b|
|15||Foaming at the mouth||E4 5c ***||2|
|17||Bath Time||VS 4b|
|18||Cot Death||VS 4c *|
|19||Foetal Attraction||HVS 4c|
|20||Cradle Snatcher||HS 4b *||2|
|24||Pigeon Post||HVS 4c|
|25||Wings of a Dove||VS 4c *|
|26||Rip Van Winkle||E2 5b|
|27||Ripping Yarns||E3 5c|
|28||A drop in the ocean||E4 6a **|
|29||Pidgin English||E1 5b|
|30||Monster Munch||E6 6b *|
|32||Infidel||E1 5b *||1|
|33||Up the Aunty||E3 5b||2|
|35||Cod gives you a stiffy||E1 5b|
|36||Wheat crunchies||E6 6a *|
|38||Bouncing Babies||HVS 5a|
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