Steep limestone trad climbs on variable rock but it is generally sounder than it looks at first sight. Just take care topping out. It can be a suntrap in winter as well as summer and since it has east, west and south facing walls it is easy to follow the sun throughout the day. The fact some climbs are non tidal also helps extend a day out.
7 new stakes (marked with orange string) were placed so it should be possible to belay on two stakes in most instances. Some loose rock was also removed and lots of routes checked.
At VS - Saracen and Wings of a Dove (superb but perhaps HVS 4c)
At HVS - Berry Red Wall and Fowler's Dolly Mixture - classic subterranean excursions.
At E1 - Lady of Shame and Chuck Berry. Both are very steep and juggy.
At E2 - La Rage - a pumpy two pitch traverse requiring a proficient second
Man Bites Dog - an old school test piece. Very physical steep crack climbing.
At E3 - Infidelity and Up the Aunty are perfectly acceptable onsight propositions.
At E4 - Foaming at the Mouth (well protected with new threads 2014) and A drop in the Ocean are classic big overhangs.
New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml
Park as for Berry Head. Walk back along the access road to the car park and take a footpath on the L which soon emerges at the cliff top at a spectacular zawn. Follow it past a stone stile, past Cradle Rock and past a metal gate into the holiday camp on the R. 10 m further on take a path LW's which contours the slope and then curves left down a ridge toward the pinnacle of Durl Rock which is connected to the mainland by a tidal causeway.
|2||Dooby Ducks Disco Bus||HVS 5b|
|4||Gravity's Angel||E4 5c *|
|5||Man bites dog||E2 5b||1|
|6||Dog Bites Back||E1 5b|
|7||Star Trekking||E4 6a **|
|8||La Rage||E2 5b *||2|
|9||Chuck Berry||E1 5b|
|10||Berry Red Wall||HVS 5a **||2|
|11||Fowler's Dolly Mixture||HVS 5a *||1|
|12||Lady of Shame||E1 5b *||3|
|13||Lap it up||E2 5b||1|
|14||Flange Pan||E2 5b|
|15||Foaming at the mouth||E4 5c ***||2|
|17||Bath Time||VS 4b|
|18||Cot Death||VS 4c *|
|19||Foetal Attraction||HVS 4c|
|20||Cradle Snatcher||HS 4b *||2|
|24||Pigeon Post||HVS 4c|
|25||Wings of a Dove||VS 4c *||1|
|26||Rip Van Winkle||E2 5b|
|27||Ripping Yarns||E3 5c|
|28||A drop in the ocean||E4 6a **|
|29||Pidgin English||E1 5b|
|30||Monster Munch||E6 6b *|
|32||Infidel||E1 5b *||1|
|33||Up the Aunty||E3 5b||2|
|35||Cod gives you a stiffy||E1 5b|
|36||Wheat crunchies||E6 6a *|
|38||Bouncing Babies||HVS 5a||1|
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|Massive rockfall winter 2014/15 has greatly altered the chimney of Pigeon Post. The exit looks exciting.|
Kafoozalem - 09/Feb/15