Durl Head

Climbs 37 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces all

Crag features
Steep limestone trad climbs on variable rock but it is generally sounder than it looks at first sight. Just take care topping out. It can be a suntrap in winter as well as summer and since it has east, west and south facing walls it is easy to follow the sun throughout the day. The fact some climbs are non tidal also helps extend a day out.

November 2014

7 new stakes (marked with orange string) were placed so it should be possible to belay on two stakes in most instances. Some loose rock was also removed and lots of routes checked.

Recommended climbs..

At VS - Saracen and Wings of a Dove (superb but perhaps HVS 4c)

At HVS - Berry Red Wall and Fowler's Dolly Mixture - classic subterranean excursions.

At E1 - Lady of Shame and Chuck Berry. Both are very steep and juggy.

At E2 - La Rage - a pumpy two pitch traverse requiring a proficient second

Man Bites Dog - an old school test piece. Very physical steep crack climbing.

At E3 - Infidelity and Up the Aunty are perfectly acceptable onsight propositions.

At E4 - Foaming at the Mouth (well protected with new threads 2014) and A drop in the Ocean are classic big overhangs.

New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

Access notes
Park as for Berry Head. Walk back along the access road to the car park and take a footpath on the L which soon emerges at the cliff top at a spectacular zawn. Follow it past a stone stile, past Cradle Rock and past a metal gate into the holiday camp on the R. 10 m further on take a path LW's which contours the slope and then curves left down a ridge toward the pinnacle of Durl Rock which is connected to the mainland by a tidal causeway.

Guidebooks
South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH BAY  
2Dooby Ducks Disco BusHVS 5b  
3HydrophobicsHVS 5a 3
4Gravity's AngelE4 5c * 
5Dog Bites BackE1 5b  
6Split EndsE1 5a *2
7Man bites dogE2 5b *3
8Star TrekkingE4 6a ** 
9La RageE2 5b *2
10Chuck BerryE1 5b  
11Berry Red WallHVS 5a **2
12Fowler's Dolly MixtureHVS 5a *1
13Lady of ShameE1 5b *5
14Lap it upE2 5b 1
15Flange PanE2 5b  
16Foaming at the mouthE4 5c ***2
 DURL ROCK  
18Bath TimeVS 4b  
19Cot DeathVS 4c * 
20Foetal AttractionHVS 4c  
21Cradle SnatcherHS 4b *2
22Lullaby BabyS 1
23ChiD 1
 SOUTH BAY  
25Pigeon PostHVS 4c  
26Wings of a DoveVS 4c *1
27Rip Van WinkleE2 5b  
28Ripping YarnsE3 5c  
29A drop in the oceanE4 6a ** 
30Pidgin EnglishE1 5b  
31Monster MunchE6 6b * 
32DragnetVD  
33InfidelE1 5b *1
34Up the AuntyE3 5b 4
35InfidelityE3 5c 2
36Cod gives you a stiffyE1 5b  
37Wheat crunchiesE6 6a * 
38SaracenVS 4c 1
39Bouncing BabiesHVS 5a 1
40Paper TigerVS 4c 2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Massive rockfall winter 2014/15 has greatly altered the chimney of Pigeon Post. The exit looks exciting.
Kafoozalem - 09/Feb/15