Durl Head

Climbs 35 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces all

Crag features
Steep limestone trad climbs on variable rock but it is generally sounder than it looks at first sight. Just take care topping out. It can be a suntrap in winter as well as summer and since it has east, west and south facing walls it is easy to follow the sun throughout the day. The fact some climbs are non tidal also helps extend a day out.

November 2014

7 new stakes (marked with orange string) were placed so it should be possible to belay on two stakes in most instances. Some loose rock was also removed and lots of routes checked.

Recommended climbs..

At VS - Saracen and Wings of a Dove

At HVS - Berry Red Wall and Fowler's Dolly Mixture - classic subterranean excursions.

At E1 - Lady of Shame and Chuck Berry. Both are very steep and juggy.

At E2 - La Rage - a pumpy two pitch traverse requiring a proficient second

Man Bites Dog - an old school test piece. Very physical steep crack climbing.

At E3 - Infidelity and Up the Aunty are perfectly acceptable onsight propositions.

At E4 - Foaming at the Mouth (well protected with new threads 2014) and A drop in the Ocean are classic big overhangs.

New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

Access notes
Park as for Berry Head. Walk back along the access road to the car park and take a footpath on the L which soon emerges at the cliff top at a spectacular zawn. Follow it past a stone stile, past Cradle Rock and past a metal gate into the holiday camp on the R. 10 m further on take a path LW's which contours the slope and then curves left down a ridge toward the pinnacle of Durl Rock which is connected to the mainland by a tidal causeway.

Guidebooks
South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 NORTH BAY 
2Dooby Ducks Disco BusHVS 5b
3HydrophobicsHVS 5a
4Gravity's AngelE4 5c *
5Man bites dogE2 5b
6Dog Bites BackE1 5b
7Star TrekkingE4 6a **
8La RageE2 5b *
9Chuck BerryE1 5b
10Berry Red WallHVS 5a **
11Fowler's Dolly MixtureHVS 5a *
12Lady of ShameE1 5b *
13Lap it upE2 5b
14Flange PanE2 5b
15Foaming at the mouthE4 5c ***
 DURL ROCK 
17Bath TimeVS 4b
18Cot DeathVS 4c *
19Foetal AttractionHVS 4c
20Cradle SnatcherHS 4b *
21Lullaby BabyS
22ChiD
 SOUTH BAY 
24Pigeon PostHVS 4c
25Wings of a DoveVS 4c *
26Rip Van WinkleE2 5b
27Ripping YarnsE3 5c
28A drop in the oceanE4 6a **
29Pidgin EnglishE1 5b
30Monster MunchE6 6b *
31DragnetVD
32InfidelE1 5b *
33Up the AuntyE3 5b
34InfidelityE3 5c
35Cod gives you a stiffyE1 5b
36Wheat crunchiesE6 6a *
37SaracenVS 4c
38Bouncing BabiesHVS 5a
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