Berry Head (The Old Redoubt)

Climbs 105 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 46m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Amazing and surprisingly sound rock which creates both epics and magic days. Perhaps best known for Moonraker (HVS 5a) - is it the best HVS in the country? - Dreadnought (E3 5c), Caveman (E6 6b) and the vast sea traverses of Magical Mystery Tour and Rainbow Bridge.

It is now also a mecca for Deep Water Soloing (DWS) with the publication of the Rockfax Deep Water Guide. The Wizard of Oz is a new extended variation of Rainbow Bridge is touted as "Britain's Best DWS Traverse" and could it really be the best climb in the UK? Article here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3218

Dave Henderson's website provides excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml

New route info is also found at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

PLEASE CHECK THE ACCESS NOTES BELOW FOR INFORMATION ABOUT BIRD BANS.

Access notes
BIRD BAN MARCH 1st TO JULY 31st. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide. There is a £1,000 fine for breaking this, and a camera monitors the cliff, so don't hope. There is a variable access agreement for some parts of Rainbow Bridge but there is no access by the Great Cave. Check the details here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/Rainbow-Bridge-access.shtml. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE PLEASE DON'T CLIMB.

DWS : The BMC now requests Deep water soloists to phone Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting on (01803) 882 704. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Park as for Berry Head Quarry.

Footpath from the seaward end of the car park leads down a steep grassy slope to the sea. Take the rocky scoop to the R, leading to the easy (but very exposed) sea traverse to a non-tidal platform. Don't fall off.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Deep Water (2007), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR TRAVERSES 
2Magical Mystery Tour FullE1 5b ***
3Magical Mystery Tour 16a+ ***
4Magical Mystery Tour 2 (Blue Grotto pitch)6a+ **
5Magical Mystery Tour 34a
6Magical Mystery Tour 46b **
 BRITAINS BEST DWS TRAVERSE 
8The Wizard of Oz7b ***
 MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR 1 AREA 
10Yard Trimmings6b+ **
11Gulliver's TravelsXS 6a
12Green Grotto Traverse6c **
13Cave of Dark DeedsXS 5b
14Cod is a DJXS 6a *
15This is my ChurchXS 6b ***
16Let it goXS 5c *
17In the MoodXS 5b
 THE GREAT CAVE 
19Moving TargetVS 4c
20The Long goodbyeE1 5a
21Lost ArrowHS
22Uncul-PatterE1 5a
23L'ObticianE4 6a
24King CrabE1 5a *
25Anti-matterVS 4c
26Sea-Earth-EnergyE5 6a **
27False AlarmsE3 5c *
28How to Steal a MillionE5 6a **
29AukE2 5b
30Guinness6b+ **
31The High TraverseHVS 5a
32The Seventh CircleE2 5b
33MelindaE1 5a
34PikadonHVS 5a
35Goddess of GloomHVS 5a **
36Lunar seaE3 5c *
37The QuakerE3 6a *
38The HoodE3 5c **
39CrocodileE2 5b
40BarbicanE3 5c **
41DreadnoughtE3 5c ***
42MoonrakerHVS ***
43CavemanE6 6b ***
44Seventh DreadE1 5b ***
45Seventh Dread - Caveman link upE2 5b **
46The Earthsea Trilogy #3E6 6b ***
47Savage/Earthsea ConnectionE6 6c ***
48SavageE6 6c ***
49Terra CottaE6 6b ***
50CromagnumE8 6c ***
51The New Stone-ageE6 6b ***
52Killa Gorilla7b *
53The CurseA4 ***
54Lip tripE5 6a ***
55Depth ChargeE5 6a ***
56CocoonE8 6c ***
57Man O' warE6 6a **
58Lost IdentityE6 6a *
59WarspiteE5 6a *
60The Sub Low ExtensionE4 6a *
61Hands off Whizzy6c **
62Warspite in brief6b **
63YardarmE3 5b ***
64SloopE1 5b
65Sandshoe ShuffleE1 5b *
66The Ultimate TrundleVD
 RAINBOW BRIDGE AREA 
68Rainbow Bridge7a+ ***
69Rainbow Bridge Diluted6a+ ***
70Drop Squad5a
71The Gill6b *
72Yokel Hero6b+ *
73Way Down5a *
74Cutlass8a+ ***
75Verdon Dreaming7a ***
76Rainbow Scoop6c ***
77Puppy Onsight6b *
78Chrome Bum6b+ *
79The Pink Slit6c *
80The Lost Locals6b+ ***
81Aeronautics6c ***
82Show goes on6a+ *
83Inimitable toenails6b *
84Stripper Robertson6b
85Cyborg Crocker6a
86The Holes6a
87Strawberry Seal7b+ **
88Barrel Traverse7c ***
89Look, before you leap6b *
90Disco Inferno7b *
91Bronski Beat7b ***
92Into the fire7b+ *
93The Cauldron7a+ ***
94Soft Cell7c+ ***
95Nor' Wind Blows5c *
96Eight Ball4c **
97Salmon Fishcake7a+ *
98Cod Tympani7a+ ***
99Fartin' RockerXS 6a **
100The Wave6c ***
101Hear My Boat A Comin'XS 6a *
102Torpedo Dive6b **
103Dolly DaggerXS 6a
104Mr Whippy6a
105Terminal Slab4c *
106Yum Yum6c *
107Up Yer Bum6b+ *
108A Tear Drop in the Sea6c *
109Robbie's Brown Wall6b+
110Gluteas maximus7a **
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Top pitch of Dreadnought cleaned and Melinda cleaned, regraded and re-described - see logbook.
Kafoozalem - 29/Sep/14
Goddess of Gloom cleaned Sept 2014. I have exhumed holds and gear placements from the soil on pitch two. Get on it whilst it's in good nick. A superb adventure route a little harder than Moonraker.
Kafoozalem - 18/Sep/14
The awesome line has been climbed by Ken Palmer - details to follow.
Kafoozalem - 18/Sep/14
Terminal Zawn DWS has suffered from much misreporting. Rockfax Deep Water has several errors. Comeback Kid is Up Yer bum (sorry about that). Terminal Viscosity is really only an inferior RH finish to A Tear Drop in the Sea. Terminal Twelve has possibly never been climbed - there is an awesome line there if you fancy it. I have updated the logbooks accordingly.
Kafoozalem - 25/Aug/14
In case anyone is planning a climb in the Great Cave before the official bird ban; we went to climb Goddess of Gloom today but lots of Guillemots have started to nest already. So wise to make different plans.
Mr Tickle - 09/Feb/13
https://vimeo.com/52489663 Our ascent of Moonraker.
Stanners - 31/Oct/12
18/9/2010 Beware wasps nesting on the path down to the Great Cave descent - the loose soil here looks like molehills.
Kafoozalem - 18/Sep/10
3/8/2010 fulmar nesting at small cave on belay at start of crack on pitch 3! covered me in sick nice!!
bigrob - 03/Aug/10
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 11/May/2011
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