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These details were last updated on 11/May/2011

Berry Head (The Old Redoubt)

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 105 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 46m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Amazing and surprisingly sound rock which creates both epics and magic days. Perhaps best known for Moonraker (HVS 5a) - is it the best HVS in the country? - Dreadnought (E3 5c), Caveman (E6 6b) and the vast sea traverses of Magical Mystery Tour and Rainbow Bridge.

It is now also a mecca for Deep Water Soloing (DWS) with the publication of the Rockfax Deep Water Guide. The Wizard of Oz is a new extended variation of Rainbow Bridge is touted as "Britain's Best DWS Traverse" and could it really be the best climb in the UK? Article here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3218

Dave Henderson's website provides excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml

New route info is also found at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

PLEASE CHECK THE ACCESS NOTES BELOW FOR INFORMATION ABOUT BIRD BANS.

Access notes
BIRD BAN MARCH 1st TO JULY 31st. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide. There is a £1,000 fine for breaking this, and a camera monitors the cliff, so don't hope. There is a variable access agreement for some parts of Rainbow Bridge but there is no access by the Great Cave. Check the details here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/Rainbow-Bridge-access.shtml. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE PLEASE DON'T CLIMB.

DWS : The BMC now requests Deep water soloists to phone Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting on (01803) 882 704. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Park as for Berry Head Quarry.

Footpath from the seaward end of the car park leads down a steep grassy slope to the sea. Take the rocky scoop to the R, leading to the easy (but very exposed) sea traverse to a non-tidal platform. Don't fall off.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

2.5mm rain
Sun
21 °C
14 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
20 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
22 kph

0.9mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
19 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
19 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Deep Water (2007), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR TRAVERSES  
2Magical Mystery Tour FullE1 5b *** 
3Magical Mystery Tour 16a+ ***238
4Magical Mystery Tour 2 (Blue Grotto pitch)6a+ **47
5Magical Mystery Tour 34a 8
6Magical Mystery Tour 46b **9
 BRITAINS BEST DWS TRAVERSE  
8The Wizard of Oz7b ***8
 MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR 1 AREA  
10Yard Trimmings6b+ ** 
11Gulliver's TravelsXS 6a  
12Green Grotto Traverse6c **2
13Cod is a DJXS 6a * 
14This is my ChurchXS 6b ***1
15Let it goXS 5c * 
16In the MoodXS 5b  
 THE GREAT CAVE  
18Moving TargetVS 4c 2
19The Long goodbyeE1 5a 1
20Lost ArrowHS 1
21Uncul-PatterE1 5a  
22L'ObticianE4 6a  
23King CrabHVS 5a 1
24Anti-matterVS 4c 2
25Sea-Earth-EnergyE5 6a ** 
26False AlarmsE3 5c * 
27How to Steal a MillionE5 6a ** 
28AukE2 5b  
29Guinness6b+ **2
30The High TraverseHVS 5a 1
31The Seventh CircleE2 5b  
32MelindaHVS 5a  
33PikadonHVS 5a 2
34Goddess of GloomHVS 5a **24
35Lunar seaE3 5c * 
36The QuakerE3 6a *1
37The HoodE3 5c **1
38CrocodileE2 5b  
39BarbicanE3 5c **1
40DreadnoughtE3 5c ***63
41MoonrakerHVS ***227
42CavemanE6 6b ***12
43Seventh DreadE1 5b ***9
44Seventh Dread - Caveman link upE2 5b **1
45The Earthsea Trilogy #3E6 6b *** 
46Savage/Earthsea ConnectionE6 6c *** 
47SavageE6 6c *** 
48Terra CottaE6 6b *** 
49CromagnumE8 6c ***1
50The New Stone-ageE6 6b *** 
51Killa Gorilla7b *2
52The CurseA4 *** 
53Lip tripE5 6a ***1
54Depth ChargeE5 6a ***3
55CocoonE8 6c *** 
 Climb nameGradex
56Man O' warE6 6a **1
57Lost IdentityE6 6a * 
58WarspiteE5 6a * 
59The Sub Low ExtensionE4 6a * 
60Hands off Whizzy6c ** 
61Warspite in brief6b ** 
62YardarmE3 5b ***11
63SloopE1 5b 2
64Sandshoe ShuffleE1 5b *4
65The Ultimate TrundleVD  
 RAINBOW BRIDGE AREA  
67Rainbow Bridge7a+ ***130
68Rainbow Bridge Diluted6a+ ***35
69Drop Squad5a 13
70The Gill6b *9
71Yokel Hero6b+ *2
72Way Down5a *18
73Cutlass8a+ 4
74Verdon Dreaming7a ***9
75Rainbow Scoop6c ***33
76Puppy Onsight6b *8
77Chrome Bum6b+ *6
78The Pink Slit6c *2
79The Lost Locals6b+ ***28
80Aeronautics6c ***14
81Show goes on6a+ *9
82Inimitable toenails6b *5
83Stripper Robertson6b 2
84Cyborg Crocker6a 3
85The Holes6a 6
86Strawberry Seal7b+ **5
87Barrel Traverse7c ***13
88Look, before you leap6b *15
89Disco Inferno7b *1
90Bronski Beat7b ***2
91Into the fire7b+ * 
92The Cauldron7a+ ***21
93Soft Cell7c+ ***1
94Nor' Wind Blows5c *5
95Eight Ball4c **18
96Salmon Fishcake7a+ *2
97Cod Tympani7a+ ***26
98Fartin' RockerXS 6a ** 
99The Wave6c ***38
100Hear My Boat A Comin'XS 6a * 
101Torpedo DiveF6b **1
102Dolly DaggerXS 6a  
103Terminal Slab4c *5
104Yum Yum6c  
105Comeback Kid6b 6
106Up Yer Bum6b+ *2
107A Tear Drop in the Sea6b+ *3
108Robbie's Brown Wall6b+  
109Gluteas maximus7a **10
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK  
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
In case anyone is planning a climb in the Great Cave before the official bird ban; we went to climb Goddess of Gloom today but lots of Guillemots have started to nest already. So wise to make different plans.
Mr Tickle - 09/Feb/13

https://vimeo.com/52489663 Our ascent of Moonraker.
Stanners - 31/Oct/12

18/9/2010 Beware wasps nesting on the path down to the Great Cave descent - the loose soil here looks like molehills.
Kafoozalem - 18/Sep/10

3/8/2010 fulmar nesting at small cave on belay at start of crack on pitch 3! covered me in sick nice!!
bigrob - 03/Aug/10