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These details were last updated on 11/May/2011

Berry Head (The Old Redoubt)

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 46m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Amazing and surprisingly sound rock which creates both epics and magic days. Perhaps best known for Moonraker (HVS 5a) - is it the best HVS in the country? - Dreadnought (E3 5c), Caveman (E6 6b) and the vast sea traverses of Magical Mystery Tour and Rainbow Bridge.

It is now also a mecca for Deep Water Soloing (DWS) with the publication of the Rockfax Deep Water Guide. The Wizard of Oz is a new extended variation of Rainbow Bridge is touted as "Britain's Best DWS Traverse" and could it really be the best climb in the UK? Article here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3218

Dave Henderson's website provides excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml

New route info is also found at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

PLEASE CHECK THE ACCESS NOTES BELOW FOR INFORMATION ABOUT BIRD BANS.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), Deep Water (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR TRAVERSES  
2Magical Mystery Tour 16a+ ***188
3Magical Mystery Tour 2 (Blue Grotto pitch)6a+ **41
4Magical Mystery Tour 34 7
5Magical Mystery Tour 46b **7
 BRITAINS BEST DWS TRAVERSE  
7The Wizard of Oz7b ***5
 MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR 1 AREA  
9Yard Trimmings6b+ ** 
10Gulliver's TravelsXS 6a  
11Green Grotto Traverse6c **1
12Cod is a DJXS 6a * 
13This is my ChurchXS 6b ***1
14Let it goXS 5c * 
15In the MoodXS 5b  
 THE GREAT CAVE  
17Moving TargetVS 4c 2
18The Long goodbyeE1 5a 1
19Lost ArrowHS 1
20Uncul-PatterE1 5a  
21L'ObticianE4 6a  
22King CrabHVS 5a 1
23Anti-matterVS 4c 2
24Sea-Earth-EnergyE5 6a ** 
25False AlarmsE3 5c * 
26How to Steal a MillionE5 6a ** 
27AukE2 5b  
28The High TraverseHVS 5a 1
29The Seventh CircleE2 5b  
30MelindaHVS 5a  
31PikadonHVS 5a 2
32Goddess of GloomHVS 5a **20
33Lunar seaE3 5c * 
34The QuakerE3 6a *1
35The HoodE3 5c **1
36CrocodileE2 5b  
37BarbicanE3 5c **1
38DreadnoughtE3 5c ***48
39MoonrakerHVS ***179
40Seventh DreadE1 5b ***6
41Seventh Dread - Caveman link upE2 5b **1
42The Earthsea Trilogy #3E6 6b *** 
43Savage/Earthsea ConnectionE6 6c *** 
44SavageE6 6c *** 
45CavemanE6 6a ***10
46Terra CottaE6 6b *** 
47CromagnumE8 6c ***1
48The New Stone-ageE6 6b *** 
49Killa Gorilla7b * 
50The CurseA4 *** 
51Lip tripE5 6a ***1
52Depth ChargeE5 6a ***3
53CocoonE8 6c *** 
 Climb nameGradex
54Man O' warE6 6a **1
55Lost IdentityE6 6a * 
56WarspiteE5 6a * 
57The Sub Low ExtensionE4 6a * 
58Hands off Whizzy6c ** 
59Warspite in brief6b ** 
60The YardarmE3 5b ***11
61SloopE1 5b 2
62Sandshoe ShuffleE1 5b *4
63The Ultimate TrundleVD  
 RAINBOW BRIDGE AREA  
65Rainbow Bridge7a+ ***105
66Rainbow Bridge Diluted6a+ ***19
67Drop Squad5 9
68The Gill6b *5
69Yokel Hero6b+ * 
70Way Down5 *13
71Cutlass8a+ 1
72Verdon Dreaming7a ***5
73Rainbow Scoop6c ***22
74Puppy Onsight6b *4
75Chrome Bum6b+ *3
76The Pink Slit6c * 
77The Lost Locals6b+ ***14
78Aeronautics6c ***5
79Show goes on6a+ *3
80Inimitable toenails6b * 
81Stripper Robertson6b  
82Cyborg Crocker6a 1
83The Holes6a 4
84Strawberry Seal7b+ **5
85Barrel Traverse7c ***10
86Look, before you leap6b *13
87Disco Inferno7b * 
88Bronski Beat7b ***1
89Into the fire7b+ * 
90The Cauldron7a+ ***18
91Soft Cell7c+ ***1
92Nor' Wind Blows5+ *4
93Eight Ball4+ **14
94Salmon Fishcake7a+ *2
95Cod Tympani7a+ ***18
96Fartin' RockerXS 6a ** 
97The Wave6c 30
98Hear My Boat A Comin'XS 6a * 
99Torpedo DiveXS 5c ** 
100Dolly DaggerXS 6a  
101Terminal Slab4+ *4
102Yum Yum6b 3
103Up Yer Bum6b+ * 
104A Tear Drop in the Sea6b+ *2
105Robbie's Brown Wall6b+  
106Gluteas maximus7a **6
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Access notes
BIRD BAN MARCH 1st TO JULY 31st. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide. There is a £1,000 fine for breaking this, and a camera monitors the cliff, so don't hope. There is a variable access agreement for some parts of Rainbow Bridge but there is no access by the Great Cave. Check the details here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/Rainbow-Bridge-access.shtml. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE PLEASE DON'T CLIMB.

DWS : The BMC now requests Deep water soloists to phone Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting on (01803) 882 704. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Park as for Berry Head Quarry.

Footpath from the seaward end of the car park leads down a steep grassy slope to the sea. Take the rocky scoop to the R, leading to the easy (but very exposed) sea traverse to a non-tidal platform. Don't fall off.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
In case anyone is planning a climb in the Great Cave before the official bird ban; we went to climb Goddess of Gloom today but lots of Guillemots have started to nest already. So wise to make different plans.
Mr Tickle ? - 09/Feb/13

https://vimeo.com/52489663 Our ascent of Moonraker.
Stanners ? - 31/Oct/12

18/9/2010 Beware wasps nesting on the path down to the Great Cave descent - the loose soil here looks like molehills.
Kafoozalem ? - 18/Sep/10

3/8/2010 fulmar nesting at small cave on belay at start of crack on pitch 3! covered me in sick nice!!
bigrob ? - 03/Aug/10