Berry Head (The Old Redoubt) Devon, ENGLAND
Climbs 105 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 46m a.s.l – Faces E
Amazing and surprisingly sound rock which creates both epics and magic days. Perhaps best known for Moonraker (HVS 5a) - is it the best HVS in the country? - Dreadnought (E3 5c), Caveman (E6 6b) and the vast sea traverses of Magical Mystery Tour and Rainbow Bridge.
It is now also a mecca for Deep Water Soloing (DWS) with the publication of the Rockfax Deep Water Guide. The Wizard of Oz is a new extended variation of Rainbow Bridge is touted as "Britain's Best DWS Traverse" and could it really be the best climb in the UK? Article here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3218
Dave Henderson's website provides excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml
New route info is also found at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml
PLEASE CHECK THE ACCESS NOTES BELOW FOR INFORMATION ABOUT BIRD BANS.
BIRD BAN MARCH 1st TO JULY 31st. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide. There is a £1,000 fine for breaking this, and a camera monitors the cliff, so don't hope. There is a variable access agreement for some parts of Rainbow Bridge but there is no access by the Great Cave. Check the details here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/Rainbow-Bridge-access.shtml. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE PLEASE DON'T CLIMB.
DWS : The BMC now requests Deep water soloists to phone Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting on (01803) 882 704. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.
Park as for Berry Head Quarry.
Footpath from the seaward end of the car park leads down a steep grassy slope to the sea. Take the rocky scoop to the R, leading to the easy (but very exposed) sea traverse to a non-tidal platform. Don't fall off.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), Deep Water (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem
Goddess of Gloom cleaned Sept 2014. I have exhumed holds and gear placements from the soil on pitch two. Get on it whilst it's in good nick. A superb adventure route a little harder than Moonraker.
Kafoozalem - 18/Sep/14
The awesome line has been climbed by Ken Palmer - details to follow.
Kafoozalem - 18/Sep/14
Terminal Zawn DWS has suffered from much misreporting. Rockfax Deep Water has several errors. Comeback Kid is Up Yer bum (sorry about that). Terminal Viscosity is really only an inferior RH finish to A Tear Drop in the Sea. Terminal Twelve has possibly never been climbed - there is an awesome line there if you fancy it. I have updated the logbooks accordingly.
Kafoozalem - 25/Aug/14
In case anyone is planning a climb in the Great Cave before the official bird ban; we went to climb Goddess of Gloom today but lots of Guillemots have started to nest already. So wise to make different plans.
Mr Tickle - 09/Feb/13
https://vimeo.com/52489663 Our ascent of Moonraker.
Stanners - 31/Oct/12
18/9/2010 Beware wasps nesting on the path down to the Great Cave descent - the loose soil here looks like molehills.
Kafoozalem - 18/Sep/10
3/8/2010 fulmar nesting at small cave on belay at start of crack on pitch 3! covered me in sick nice!!
bigrob - 03/Aug/10