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These details were last updated on 11/May/2011

Berry Head (The Old Redoubt)

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 105 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 46m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Amazing and surprisingly sound rock which creates both epics and magic days. Perhaps best known for Moonraker (HVS 5a) - is it the best HVS in the country? - Dreadnought (E3 5c), Caveman (E6 6b) and the vast sea traverses of Magical Mystery Tour and Rainbow Bridge.

It is now also a mecca for Deep Water Soloing (DWS) with the publication of the Rockfax Deep Water Guide. The Wizard of Oz is a new extended variation of Rainbow Bridge is touted as "Britain's Best DWS Traverse" and could it really be the best climb in the UK? Article here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3218

Dave Henderson's website provides excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml

New route info is also found at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

PLEASE CHECK THE ACCESS NOTES BELOW FOR INFORMATION ABOUT BIRD BANS.

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
21 kph

8.2mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
31 kph

2.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
23 kph

1.5mm rain
Cloudy
12 °C
18 kph

1.4mm rain
Sun
10 °C
22 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), Deep Water (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR TRAVERSES  
2Magical Mystery Tour 16a+ ***236
3Magical Mystery Tour 2 (Blue Grotto pitch)6a+ **46
4Magical Mystery Tour 34 8
5Magical Mystery Tour 46b **9
 BRITAINS BEST DWS TRAVERSE  
7The Wizard of Oz7b ***8
 MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR 1 AREA  
9Yard Trimmings6b+ ** 
10Gulliver's TravelsXS 6a  
11Green Grotto Traverse6c **2
12Cod is a DJXS 6a * 
13This is my ChurchXS 6b ***1
14Let it goXS 5c * 
15In the MoodXS 5b  
 THE GREAT CAVE  
17Moving TargetVS 4c 2
18The Long goodbyeE1 5a 1
19Lost ArrowHS 1
20Uncul-PatterE1 5a  
21L'ObticianE4 6a  
22King CrabHVS 5a 1
23Anti-matterVS 4c 2
24Sea-Earth-EnergyE5 6a ** 
25False AlarmsE3 5c * 
26How to Steal a MillionE5 6a ** 
27AukE2 5b  
28Guinness6b+ **2
29The High TraverseHVS 5a 1
30The Seventh CircleE2 5b  
31MelindaHVS 5a  
32PikadonHVS 5a 2
33Goddess of GloomHVS 5a **24
34Lunar seaE3 5c * 
35The QuakerE3 6a *1
36The HoodE3 5c **1
37CrocodileE2 5b  
38BarbicanE3 5c **1
39DreadnoughtE3 5c ***62
40MoonrakerHVS ***223
41Seventh DreadE1 5b ***9
42Seventh Dread - Caveman link upE2 5b **1
43The Earthsea Trilogy #3E6 6b *** 
44Savage/Earthsea ConnectionE6 6c *** 
45SavageE6 6c *** 
46CavemanE6 6a ***12
47Terra CottaE6 6b *** 
48CromagnumE8 6c ***1
49The New Stone-ageE6 6b *** 
50Killa Gorilla7b *2
51The CurseA4 *** 
52Lip tripE5 6a ***1
53Depth ChargeE5 6a ***3
54CocoonE8 6c *** 
 Climb nameGradex
55Man O' warE6 6a **1
56Lost IdentityE6 6a * 
57WarspiteE5 6a * 
58The Sub Low ExtensionE4 6a * 
59Hands off Whizzy6c ** 
60Warspite in brief6b ** 
61YardarmE3 5b ***11
62SloopE1 5b 2
63Sandshoe ShuffleE1 5b *4
64The Ultimate TrundleVD  
 RAINBOW BRIDGE AREA  
66Rainbow Bridge7a+ ***128
67Rainbow Bridge Diluted6a+ ***34
68Drop Squad5 13
69The Gill6b *9
70Yokel Hero6b+ *2
71Way Down5 *18
72Cutlass8a+ 4
73Verdon Dreaming7a ***9
74Rainbow Scoop6c ***33
75Puppy Onsight6b *8
76Chrome Bum6b+ *6
77The Pink Slit6c *2
78The Lost Locals6b+ ***28
79Aeronautics6c ***14
80Show goes on6a+ *9
81Inimitable toenails6b *5
82Stripper Robertson6b 2
83Cyborg Crocker6a 3
84The Holes6a 6
85Strawberry Seal7b+ **5
86Barrel Traverse7c ***13
87Look, before you leap6b *15
88Disco Inferno7b *1
89Bronski Beat7b ***2
90Into the fire7b+ * 
91The Cauldron7a+ ***21
92Soft Cell7c+ ***1
93Nor' Wind Blows5+ *5
94Eight Ball4+ **18
95Salmon Fishcake7a+ *2
96Cod Tympani7a+ ***25
97Fartin' RockerXS 6a ** 
98The Wave6c ***38
99Hear My Boat A Comin'XS 6a * 
100Torpedo DiveXS 5c ** 
101Dolly DaggerXS 6a  
102Terminal Slab4+ *5
103Yum Yum6c  
104Comeback Kid6b 6
105Up Yer Bum6b+ *2
106A Tear Drop in the Sea6b+ *3
107Robbie's Brown Wall6b+  
108Gluteas maximus7a **10
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Access notes
BIRD BAN MARCH 1st TO JULY 31st. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide. There is a £1,000 fine for breaking this, and a camera monitors the cliff, so don't hope. There is a variable access agreement for some parts of Rainbow Bridge but there is no access by the Great Cave. Check the details here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/Rainbow-Bridge-access.shtml. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE PLEASE DON'T CLIMB.

DWS : The BMC now requests Deep water soloists to phone Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting on (01803) 882 704. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Park as for Berry Head Quarry.

Footpath from the seaward end of the car park leads down a steep grassy slope to the sea. Take the rocky scoop to the R, leading to the easy (but very exposed) sea traverse to a non-tidal platform. Don't fall off.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
In case anyone is planning a climb in the Great Cave before the official bird ban; we went to climb Goddess of Gloom today but lots of Guillemots have started to nest already. So wise to make different plans.
Mr Tickle - 09/Feb/13

https://vimeo.com/52489663 Our ascent of Moonraker.
Stanners - 31/Oct/12

18/9/2010 Beware wasps nesting on the path down to the Great Cave descent - the loose soil here looks like molehills.
Kafoozalem - 18/Sep/10

3/8/2010 fulmar nesting at small cave on belay at start of crack on pitch 3! covered me in sick nice!!
bigrob - 03/Aug/10