Berry Head (Coastguard Cliffs)

Climbs 164 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 24m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Sheltered south facing sun trap with a mixture of tidal and non tidal climbing.

Three star DWS venue ... White Rhino Tea (F7a), Pink Roadster (F7a) and Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+). (nb. all bird banned Mar 1 to July 31). Dave Henderson's website has excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml

Classic trad ... Chastity Corner (HS 4a), Hawkin's Climb (HS 4a), Abbot's Way (HVS 5a) and Blood (E1 5b).

There is first class easy DWS at Coastguard East. A free pdf guide is available from www.javu.co.uk and www.rustypeg.co.uk. This area is not bird banned so the DWS season can start earlier here.

Check the gallery for various uploaded topo's

Access notes
Bird ban March 1 - July 31 (£1000 fine!) on some parts of this cliff ie. White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation), the Oz Wall, the Ledges above the Oz wall including Lower and Upper Ranger Buttresses and Terminal Zawn. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide.

Red walls, Western Shelf and Eastern Shelf are always open for climbing.

Parking as for Berry Head Quarry.

Take the descent path 100m past the cafe in the Northern Redoubt.

Check the photo gallery for topo's giving detailed approach notes.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), Deep Water (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995), www.javu.co.uk, rustypeg.co.uk

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 UPPER & LOWER RANGER BUTTRESSES 
2LaugharneHS
3Cruise of a lifetimeHVS 5a
4Ancient EyesE1 5b
5Bus StopS
6Asante SanaVD
7JewelHS
8Silver CufflinksVD
9KatalynVS
10LeavittHVS 5a
11The Ultimate PostcardHVS 5a
12MeditationsHS
13Clapier-dans-filsS
14MulinosVS
15Tulang KecilHS
16OjeE2 5b
17LeginHVS 5a
18CasablancaE1 5b
19CarregVS
20DzirnavasHVS 5a
21Sai QotS
22Balta MajaHS
 OZ WALL 
24Oz Wall Traverse6b+ ***
25Lucid6b+
26The Groovy Gang6c **
27Hanging RibHVS 5b
28Over the RainbowE3 5b *
29Follow the Yellow Gouettes-d'eauVS 5a
30Pommie GraniteE4 6b *
31Down With His PantsVS 4c
32Boulder dashHVS 5a
33New PathsE4 6b **
34AssanaHVS 5a
35Oz CourtE2 5b *
36WizardE2 5b
37Mrs Joshua6b+ *
38Spunk's in the Bin6b
39The Missing Link7b+ **
40Taipan Oooh Taipan7a+ **
41Cavewoman6c ***
42Cavewoman In and Out6c ***
43Whizz of a Wiz6c **
 WHITE RHINO BUTTRESS 
45Barnacle Continuation Traverse6b **
46Edge of the Jungle4a *
47Humanize6a+ *
48Are We Human?6b
49Jose Sandeles6c+ *
50White Rhino Tea7a ***
51Watting Yer Ouzel6c+ *
52Crossing the Tea7a *
53Pink Roadster7a ***
54Whoomze Got der Keys to me Beema6c *
55Hymenopteran Hippopotamus6c+ *
56PickledXS 6a
57Relay5a
58Karmacoma6a *
59Forrest Gump6a+ **
60Barnacle Traverse5c **
 RED WALL AREA 
62PathosHVS 5b
63NeanderthalHVD
64Easy WallD
65Hot LipsE1 5c
66OggieHVD
67CodHVS 4c
68Cod Direct6b+ *
69Abbot's WayHVS 5a **
70Abbot's WallS 4a
71BinkyHS 4b *
72Bonky6a+ *
73Chastity CornerHS 4a *
74Project Arete6a+ *
75Oh Brother!E2 5c *
76Red MonkVS 4b
77SenexE1 5b
78VeinsE2 5c
79BloodE1 5b *
80UparoundupVS 4c
81ArcheryE1 5b
82JellyfishVS 4c
83RuddigoreHS 4a
84Red CrackHS 4a
85Ruddy CornerHVD
86Captain ScarletE2 5b
87Killer QueenE5 6b **
88Captain's CornerVS 4c
89Lewtenant FosscakeHVS 5a
90IzitsoHVS 5a
91Admiral of the LineE1 5b *
92Raw UmberE4 5c
93Three Dozen ValiumE5 6a *
94Photo Thirty-SixE4 6a
95Evening ButtressVD
96Jennie's eveningM
97Evening AreteVD
98Mini Traverse6a *
99Mini Arete5b *
100Corker6c+ *
 WESTERN SHELF 
102MemoriesV1 5b *
 SWASHBUCKLER AREA 
104Walking the Plank5a *
105Sirocco3+
106Mistral3
107Broadside3+
108Woe -is-uh-me-bop6a+ **
109Diddy Wah Diddy6a *
110Squall3+ *
111John Smith4c
112Die by the SwordE2 5c
113SwashbucklerS 4a *
114Blood & SandE3 5c *
115Gunga Din6a *
116Douglas Fairbanks Jnr.HVS 4c
117Piracy Direct Finish5a *
118Piracy3+ *
119Guided6a *
120Jim Jam4c **
121Perfect Day5a *
122Faded3+
 CLOUDBURST BUTTRESS 
124Hidden GrooveVS 4b *
125Earthbound Mystic5a
126Scar Face5a
127Cloudburst4c **
128That Riveria Touch6a+ *
129Calcite DiamondE3 5c **
130T - Mac5c
131Rocky Rocks4a
 EASY BUTTRESS 
133Don't see Slater3
134He hadn't the heart for it2+
135Must dash2
136Chicken and Egg2
137Higgs Boson4a *
138Reptilian Brain3+
139The older I get, the better I was2+ *
140I'm not me!2+
141Easy like Sunday Morning3+
142Partial Recall2+
143Nice day at work Brian?4c
 EASTERN SHELF 
145Hope StreetHS 4b *
 LIVING ZAWN 
147Lick My Decals off Baby5c
148Buggie Boogie Woogie6a **
149Living Zawn6b **
150Holy Mackerel6c **
 HIDDEN ZAWN 
152Route 12
153Ray Zazorn4a
154Tied Line6a
155Placebo4c *
156Meds4a
157Sealed4a
158Thursday RibS
159Thursday CornerHVD
160ZipperE1 5b
161SchizophreniaHS 4b
162Fine Little HandsHVS 5a
163Little HeartE1 5b
164Gugu WackHVS 4c
165Sun's RaysE1 5a
166Flying FifteenE1 5a *
167FRBHVS 5a
168Frosty Jack'sE1 5a
169Blind PewE4 6a
170Crystal CornerD
171Little Red BookE3 5c *
172Captain FlintE1 5a
173Hawkin's ClimbHS 4a **
174Early DoorsHVS 5a *
175Rum TruffleHVS 5a
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Barnacle Traverse has never been banned as long as you top out before the White Rhino Tea Buttress (ie. the original finish. Barnacle Traverse Continuation is banned since it lies below White Rhino Tea. Forrest Gump and Karmacoma are not banned but appear to have suffered rockfall this winter and so need reclimbing.
Kafoozalem - 26/Jun/14
Hi, now that Barnacle Traverse is not bird banned is this the same for the climbs around Forrest Gump?
Mr Tickle - 25/Jun/14
https://vimeo.com/49613643 Video of our short trip down here.
Stanners - 23/Sep/12
I'm struggling to find the lines Living Zawn, Holy Mackerel, Tied Line and Placebo. Are they in the narrow overhanging zawn towards the Eastern Shelf? If they are i'm really struggling to pick out which lines they take, could anyone enlighten me?
Mr Tickle - 19/May/12
I have added photo topo's to the picture gallery which should explain all.
Kafoozalem - 16/Nov/09
Is there a sketch map anywhere to show how to get down to the Oz Buttress? Spent a futile couple of hours walking back and forth to try to find flat topped white rock as mentioned in the guidebook.
Pay attention - 06/Aug/09
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 26/Nov/2013
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