Berry Head (Coastguard Cliffs) Devon, ENGLAND
Climbs 164 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 24m a.s.l – Faces S
Sheltered south facing sun trap with a mixture of tidal and non tidal climbing.
Three star DWS venue ... White Rhino Tea (F7a), Pink Roadster (F7a) and Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+). (nb. all bird banned Mar 1 to July 31). Dave Henderson's website has excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml
Classic trad ... Chastity Corner (HS 4a), Hawkin's Climb (HS 4a), Abbot's Way (HVS 5a) and Blood (E1 5b).
There is first class easy DWS at Coastguard East. A free pdf guide is available from www.javu.co.uk and www.rustypeg.co.uk. This area is not bird banned so the DWS season can start earlier here.
Check the gallery for various uploaded topo's
Bird ban March 1 - July 31 (£1000 fine!) on some parts of this cliff ie. White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation), the Oz Wall, the Ledges above the Oz wall including Lower and Upper Ranger Buttresses and Terminal Zawn. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide.
Red walls, Western Shelf and Eastern Shelf are always open for climbing.
Parking as for Berry Head Quarry.
Take the descent path 100m past the cafe in the Northern Redoubt.
Check the photo gallery for topo's giving detailed approach notes.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Deep Water (2007), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995), www.javu.co.uk, www.rustypeg.co.uk
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem
Barnacle Traverse has never been banned as long as you top out before the White Rhino Tea Buttress (ie. the original finish. Barnacle Traverse Continuation is banned since it lies below White Rhino Tea. Forrest Gump and Karmacoma are not banned but appear to have suffered rockfall this winter and so need reclimbing.
Kafoozalem - 26/Jun/14
Hi, now that Barnacle Traverse is not bird banned is this the same for the climbs around Forrest Gump?
Mr Tickle - 25/Jun/14
https://vimeo.com/49613643 Video of our short trip down here.
Stanners - 23/Sep/12
I'm struggling to find the lines Living Zawn, Holy Mackerel, Tied Line and Placebo. Are they in the narrow overhanging zawn towards the Eastern Shelf? If they are i'm really struggling to pick out which lines they take, could anyone enlighten me?
Mr Tickle - 19/May/12
I have added photo topo's to the picture gallery which should explain all.
Kafoozalem - 16/Nov/09
Is there a sketch map anywhere to show how to get down to the Oz Buttress?
Spent a futile couple of hours walking back and forth to try to find flat topped white rock as mentioned in the guidebook.
Pay attention - 06/Aug/09