Click to read about Advertising on UKC
Berry Head (Coastguard Cliffs)Devon, ENGLAND
Climbs 139 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 24m a.s.l – Faces S
Three star DWS venue ... White Rhino Tea (F7a), Pink Roadster (F7a) and Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+). (nb. all bird banned Mar 1 to July 31). Dave Henderson's website has excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml
Classic trad ... Chastity Corner (HS 4a), Hawkin's Climb (HS 4a), Abbot's Way (HVS 5a) and Blood (E1 5b).
Easy DWS on the Western Shelf.... Particularly recommended are Jim Jam f4 S1, Perfect day f5 S1, Cloudburst f4 S0, and The older I get, the better I was f2+ S0. Harder possibilities exist and the Living Zawn a little further on looks excellent. This area is not bird banned but is best avoided in strong easterly winds.
Check the gallery for various uploaded topo's
New route info is found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml
NB. MOST OF THE DWS IS OFF LIMITS MARCH 1ST TO JULY 31st DUE TO A BIRD BAN. DETAILS BELOW.
Climbs at this crag
Bird ban March 1 - July 31 (£1000 fine!) on some parts of this cliff ie. White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation), the Oz Wall, the Ledges above the Oz wall including Lower and Upper Ranger Buttresses and Terminal Zawn. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide.
Red walls, Western Shelf and Eastern Shelf are always open for climbing.
Parking as for Berry Head Quarry.
Take the descent path 100m past the cafe in the Northern Redoubt.
Check the photo gallery for topo's giving detailed approach notes.