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These details were last updated on 19/Jul/2012

Berry Head (Coastguard Cliffs)

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 139 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 24m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Sheltered south facing sun trap with a mixture of tidal and non tidal climbing.

Three star DWS venue ... White Rhino Tea (F7a), Pink Roadster (F7a) and Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+). (nb. all bird banned Mar 1 to July 31). Dave Henderson's website has excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml

Classic trad ... Chastity Corner (HS 4a), Hawkin's Climb (HS 4a), Abbot's Way (HVS 5a) and Blood (E1 5b).

Easy DWS on the Western Shelf.... Particularly recommended are Jim Jam f4 S1, Perfect day f5 S1, Cloudburst f4 S0, and The older I get, the better I was f2+ S0. Harder possibilities exist and the Living Zawn a little further on looks excellent. This area is not bird banned but is best avoided in strong easterly winds.

Check the gallery for various uploaded topo's

New route info is found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

NB. MOST OF THE DWS IS OFF LIMITS MARCH 1ST TO JULY 31st DUE TO A BIRD BAN. DETAILS BELOW.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), Deep Water (2007), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 UPPER & LOWER RANGER BUTTRESSES  
2LaugharneHS  
3Cruise of a lifetimeHVS 5a  
4Ancient EyesE1 5b 1
5Bus StopS 1
6Asante SanaVD 1
7JewelHS  
8Silver CufflinksVD 1
9KatalynVS  
10LeavittHVS 5a  
11The Ultimate PostcardHVS 5a  
12MeditationsHS  
13Clapier-dans-filsS  
14MulinosVS  
15Tulang KecilHS  
16OjeE2 5b  
17LeginHVS 5a  
18CasablancaE1 5b  
19CarregVS  
20DzirnavasHVS 5a  
21Sai QotS  
22Balta MajaHS  
 OZ WALL  
24Oz Wall Traverse6b+ ***41
25Whizz of a Wiz6c ***3
26Lucid6b+ 3
27The Groovy Gang6c **1
28Hanging RibHVS 5b  
29Over the RainbowE3 5b *1
30Follow the Yellow Gouettes-d'eauVS 5a ** 
31Pommie GraniteE4 6b * 
32Down With His PantsVS 4c 1
33Boulder dashHVS 5a  
34New PathsE4 6b ** 
35AssanaHVS 5a  
36Oz CourtE2 5b *1
37WizardE2 5b  
38Cavewoman6c ***38
39Cavewoman in & out6c **4
 WHITE RHINO BUTTRESS  
41Barnacle Continuation Traverse6b **18
42Edge of the Jungle4 *27
43Humanize6a+ *36
44Are We Human?6b 3
45Jose Sandeles6c+ *10
46White Rhino Tea7a ***52
47Watting Yer Ouzel6c+ *18
48Pink Roadster7a ***22
49Whoomze Got der Keys to me Beema6c *3
50Hymenopteran Hippopotamus6c+ * 
51PickledXS 6a  
52Cod Direct6b+ *1
53RelayHS 4a  
54Barnacle Traverse5 11
 RED WALL AREA  
56PathosHVS 5b  
57NeanderthalHVD  
58Hot LipsE1 5c 2
59OggieHVD 2
60CodHVS 4c 2
61Abbot's WayHVS 5a **34
62Abbot's WallS 4a 14
63BinkyHS 4b *32
64Chastity CornerHS 4a *20
65Oh Brother!E2 5c *1
66Red MonkVS 4b 1
67VeinsE2 5c 2
68BloodE1 5b *48
69UparoundupVS 4c  
70ArcheryE2 5c 2
71JellyfishVS 4c  
72RuddigoreHS 4a 16
73Red CrackHS 4a 24
 Climb nameGradex
74Ruddy CornerHVD 9
75Captain ScarletE2 5b 4
76Killer QueenE5 6b **1
77Captain's CornerVS 4c 5
78Lewtenant FosscakeHVS 5a  
79IzitsoHVS 5a 21
80Admiral of the LineE1 5b *1
81Raw UmberE4 5c 2
82Three Dozen ValiumE5 6a *1
83Photo Thirty-SixE4 6a  
84Evening ButtressVD 7
85Evening AreteVD 6
 WESTERN SHELF  
87Walking the PlankHVS 5a 2
88SiroccoS 4a 1
89BroadsideS 4a 3
90Woe -is-uh-me-bopXS 5b  
91SquallS 4a *5
92John SmithHVS 4c  
93Die by the SwordE3 5c 1
94SwashbucklerS 4a *11
95Gunga DinE1 5a * 
96Blood & SandE3 5c *3
97Douglas Fairbanks Jnr.HVS 4c  
98PiracyS 4a 5
99Jim JamS 4a 2
100Perfect Day5 *3
101Faded3+ 2
102Hidden GrooveVS 4b *4
103Earthbound MysticHVS 5b 2
104Scar FaceHVS 5a * 
105CloudburstVS 4c *7
106That Riveria TouchE2 5b  
107Calcite DiamondE3 5c **2
108T - Mac5+ *3
109Rocky Rocks4 *2
110Don't see Slater3 2
111He hadn't the heart for it2+ 2
112Must dash2 2
113Chicken and Egg2 2
114Higgs Boson4 *2
115Reptilian Brain3+ 2
116The older I get, the better I was2+ *3
117I'm not me!2+ 2
118Easy like Sunday Morning3+ 2
119Partial Recall2+ 2
120Nice day at work Brian?4+ 1
 EASTERN SHELF  
122Hope StreetHS 4b * 
123Lick My Decals off BabyXS 6a  
124Buggie Boogie woogieXS 5b  
125Living ZawnE1 5a ** 
126Holy MackerelE4 5c *1
127Ray ZazornVS 5a  
128Tied LineE1 5b  
129PlaceboVS 4c 2
130Thursday RibS 2
131Thursday CornerHVD 1
132ZipperE1 5b  
133SchizophreniaHS 4b  
134Fine Little HandsHVS 5a  
135Little HeartE1 5b  
136Crystal CornerD 2
137Captain FlintE1 5a  
138Little Red BookE3 5c *1
139Hawkin's ClimbHS 4a **2
140Rum TruffleHVS 5a  
141Blind PewE4 6a  
142Gugu WackHVS 4c  
143Sun's RaysE1 5a  
144Flying FifteenHVS 5a * 
145FRBHVS 5a  
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Access notes
Bird ban March 1 - July 31 (£1000 fine!) on some parts of this cliff ie. White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation), the Oz Wall, the Ledges above the Oz wall including Lower and Upper Ranger Buttresses and Terminal Zawn. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide.

Red walls, Western Shelf and Eastern Shelf are always open for climbing.

Parking as for Berry Head Quarry.

Take the descent path 100m past the cafe in the Northern Redoubt.

Check the photo gallery for topo's giving detailed approach notes.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
https://vimeo.com/49613643 Video of our short trip down here.
Stanners ? - 23/Sep/12

I'm struggling to find the lines Living Zawn, Holy Mackerel, Tied Line and Placebo. Are they in the narrow overhanging zawn towards the Eastern Shelf? If they are i'm really struggling to pick out which lines they take, could anyone enlighten me?
Mr Tickle ? - 19/May/12

I have added photo topo's to the picture gallery which should explain all.
Kafoozalem ? - 16/Nov/09

Is there a sketch map anywhere to show how to get down to the Oz Buttress? Spent a futile couple of hours walking back and forth to try to find flat topped white rock as mentioned in the guidebook.
Pay attention ? - 06/Aug/09