Berry Head (Coastguard Cliffs)

Climbs 164 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 24m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Sheltered south facing sun trap with a mixture of tidal and non tidal climbing.

Three star DWS venue ... White Rhino Tea (F7a), Pink Roadster (F7a) and Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+). (nb. all bird banned Mar 1 to July 31). Dave Henderson's website has excellent miniguides to the DWS here

Classic trad ... Chastity Corner (HS 4a), Hawkin's Climb (HS 4a), Abbot's Way (HVS 5a) and Blood (E1 5b).

There is first class easy DWS at Coastguard East. A free pdf guide is available from and This area is not bird banned so the DWS season can start earlier here.

Check the gallery for various uploaded topo's

Access notes
Bird ban March 1 - July 31 (£1000 fine!) on some parts of this cliff ie. White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation), the Oz Wall, the Ledges above the Oz wall including Lower and Upper Ranger Buttresses and Terminal Zawn. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide.

Red walls, Western Shelf and Eastern Shelf are always open for climbing.

Parking as for Berry Head Quarry.

Take the descent path 100m past the cafe in the Northern Redoubt.

Check the photo gallery for topo's giving detailed approach notes.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), Deep Water (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995),,

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
3Cruise of a lifetimeHVS 5a  
4Ancient EyesE1 5b 1
5Bus StopS 2
6Asante SanaVD 2
7JewelHS 1
8Silver CufflinksVD 1
10LeavittHVS 5a  
11The Ultimate PostcardHVS 5a  
15Tulang KecilHS  
16OjeE2 5b  
17LeginHVS 5a  
18CasablancaE1 5b  
20DzirnavasHVS 5a 1
21Sai QotS  
22Balta MajaHS  
24Oz Wall Traverse6b+ ***87
25Lucid6b+ 7
26The Groovy Gang6c **5
27Hanging RibHVS 5b  
28Over the RainbowE3 5b *1
29Follow the Yellow Gouettes-d'eauVS 5a 2
30Pommie GraniteE4 6b *1
31Down With His PantsVS 4c 2
32Boulder dashHVS 5a  
33New PathsE4 6b ** 
34AssanaHVS 5a  
35Oz CourtE2 5b *1
36WizardE2 5b  
37Mrs Joshua6b+ *4
38Spunk's in the Bin6b 3
39The Missing Link7b+ **3
40Taipan Oooh Taipan7a+ **7
41Cavewoman6c ***67
42Cavewoman In and Out6c ***15
43Whizz of a Wiz6c ** 
45Barnacle Continuation Traverse6b **39
46Edge of the Jungle4a *58
47Humanize6a+ *77
48Are We Human?6b 6
49Jose Sandeles6c+ *24
50White Rhino Tea7a ***110
51Watting Yer Ouzel6c+ *42
52Crossing the Tea7a *9
53Pink Roadster7a ***54
54Whoomze Got der Keys to me Beema6c *24
55Hymenopteran Hippopotamus6c+ *5
56PickledXS 6a  
57Relay5a 2
58Karmacoma6a *4
59Forrest Gump6a+ **2
60Barnacle Traverse5c **30
62PathosHVS 5b 2
63NeanderthalHVD 3
64Easy WallD 2
65Hot LipsE1 5c 3
66OggieHVD 7
67CodHVS 4c 8
68Cod Direct6b+ *4
69Abbot's WayHVS 5a **54
70Abbot's WallS 4a 37
71BinkyHS 4b **57
72Bonky6a+ *4
73Chastity CornerVS 4b *40
74Project Arete6a+ *1
75Oh Brother!E2 5c *5
76Red MonkVS 4b 3
77SenexE1 5b 4
78VeinsE2 5c 5
79BloodE1 5b **72
80UparoundupVS 4c  
81ArcheryE1 5b 8
82JellyfishVS 4c 13
83RuddigoreHS 4a 24
84Red CrackHS 4a 56
85Ruddy CornerHVD 14
86Captain ScarletE2 5b 4
87Killer QueenE5 6b **1
88Captain's CornerVS 4c 9
89Lewtenant FosscakeHVS 5a  
90IzitsoHVS 5a 31
91Admiral of the LineE1 5b *3
92Raw UmberE4 5c 6
93Three Dozen ValiumE5 6a *4
94Photo Thirty-SixE4 6a 1
95Evening ButtressVD 8
96Jennie's eveningM 1
97Evening AreteVD 8
98Mini Traverse6a *2
99Mini Arete5b *3
100Corker6c+ *3
102MemoriesV1 5b *2
104Walking the Plank5a *10
105Sirocco3+ 4
106Mistral3 4
107Broadside3+ 5
108Woe -is-uh-me-bop6a+ **3
109Diddy Wah Diddy6a *1
110Squall3+ *7
111John Smith4c 1
112Die by the SwordE2 5c 2
113SwashbucklerS 4a *14
114Blood & SandE3 5c *3
115Gunga Din6a *3
116Douglas Fairbanks Jnr.HVS 4c 1
117Piracy Direct Finish5a *3
118Piracy3+ *6
119Guided6a *2
120Jim Jam4c **6
121Perfect Day5a *4
122Faded3+ 2
124Hidden GrooveVS 4b *6
125Earthbound Mystic5a 3
126Scar Face5a 1
127Cloudburst4c **9
128That Riveria Touch6a+ *1
129Calcite DiamondE3 5c **5
130T - Mac5c 4
131Rocky Rocks4a 5
133Don't see Slater3 2
134He hadn't the heart for it2+ 2
135Must dash2 2
136Chicken and Egg2 2
137Higgs Boson4a *2
138Reptilian Brain3+ 2
139The older I get, the better I was2+ *5
140I'm not me!2+ 2
141Easy like Sunday Morning3+ 2
142Partial Recall2+ 2
143Nice day at work Brian?4c 1
145Hope StreetHS 4b * 
147Lick My Decals off Baby5c 4
148Buggie Boogie Woogie6a **4
149Living Zawn6b **2
150Holy Mackerel6c **3
152Route 12 3
153Ray Zazorn4a 4
154Tied Line6a 2
155Placebo4c *3
156Meds4a 1
157Sealed4a 1
158Thursday RibS 3
159Thursday CornerHVD 1
160ZipperE1 5b  
161SchizophreniaHS 4b  
162Fine Little HandsHVS 5a  
163Little HeartE1 5b  
164Gugu WackHVS 4c  
165Sun's RaysE1 5a 2
166Flying FifteenE1 5a *4
167FRBHVS 5a  
168Frosty Jack'sE1 5a 2
169Blind PewE4 6a 2
170Crystal CornerD 2
171Little Red BookE3 5c *2
172Captain FlintE1 5a 1
173Hawkin's ClimbHS 4a **4
174Early DoorsHVS 5a *2
175Rum TruffleHVS 5a  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Barnacle Traverse has never been banned as long as you top out before the White Rhino Tea Buttress (ie. the original finish. Barnacle Traverse Continuation is banned since it lies below White Rhino Tea. Forrest Gump and Karmacoma are not banned but appear to have suffered rockfall this winter and so need reclimbing.
Kafoozalem - 26/Jun/14
Hi, now that Barnacle Traverse is not bird banned is this the same for the climbs around Forrest Gump?
Mr Tickle - 25/Jun/14 Video of our short trip down here.
Stanners - 23/Sep/12
I'm struggling to find the lines Living Zawn, Holy Mackerel, Tied Line and Placebo. Are they in the narrow overhanging zawn towards the Eastern Shelf? If they are i'm really struggling to pick out which lines they take, could anyone enlighten me?
Mr Tickle - 19/May/12
I have added photo topo's to the picture gallery which should explain all.
Kafoozalem - 16/Nov/09
Is there a sketch map anywhere to show how to get down to the Oz Buttress? Spent a futile couple of hours walking back and forth to try to find flat topped white rock as mentioned in the guidebook.
Pay Attention - 06/Aug/09