Berry Head (Coastguard Cliffs)

Climbs 165 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 24m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Sheltered south facing sun trap with a mixture of tidal and non tidal climbing.

Three star DWS venue ... White Rhino Tea (F7a), Pink Roadster (F7a) and Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+). (nb. all bird banned Mar 1 to July 31). Dave Henderson's website has excellent miniguides to the DWS here

Classic trad ... Chastity Corner (HS 4a), Hawkin's Climb (HS 4a), Abbot's Way (HVS 5a) and Blood (E1 5b).

There is first class easy DWS at Coastguard East. A free pdf guide is available from and This area is not bird banned so the DWS season can start earlier here.

Check the gallery for various uploaded topo's

Approach notes
Bird ban March 1 - July 31 (£1000 fine!) on some parts of this cliff ie. White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation), the Oz Wall, the Ledges above the Oz wall including Lower and Upper Ranger Buttresses and Terminal Zawn. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide.

Red walls, Western Shelf and Eastern Shelf are always open for climbing.

Parking as for Berry Head Quarry.

Take the descent path 100m past the cafe in the Northern Redoubt.

Check the photo gallery for topo's giving detailed approach notes.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Deep Water (2007), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995),,

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
3Cruise of a lifetimeHVS 5a  
4Ancient EyesE1 5b 1
5Bus StopS 2
6Asante SanaVD 2
7JewelHS 1
8Silver CufflinksVD 1
10LeavittHVS 5a  
11The Ultimate PostcardHVS 5a  
12MeditationsHS 1
15Tulang KecilHS  
16OjeE2 5b 1
17LeginHVS 5a  
18CasablancaE2 5b *1
20DzirnavasHVS 5a 1
21Sai QotS  
22Balta MajaHS  
24Oz Wall Traverse6b+ ***93
25Lucid6b+ 8
26The Groovy Gang6c **6
27Hanging RibHVS 5b  
28Over the RainbowE3 5b *1
29Follow the Yellow Gouettes-d'eauVS 5a 2
30Pommie GraniteE4 6b *1
31Down With His PantsVS 4c 2
32Boulder dashHVS 5a  
33New PathsE4 6b ** 
34AssanaHVS 5a  
35Oz CourtE2 5b *1
36WizardE2 5b  
37Mrs Joshua6b+ *4
38Spunk's in the Bin6b 3
39The Missing Link7b+ **3
40Taipan Oooh Taipan7a+ **7
41Cavewoman6c ***81
42Cavewoman In and Out6c ***16
43Whizz of a Wiz6c ** 
45Barnacle Continuation Traverse6b **40
46Edge of the Jungle4a *66
47Humanize6a+ *88
48Are We Human?6b 6
49Jose Sandeles6c+ *31
50White Rhino Tea7a ***132
51Watting Yer Ouzel6c+ *50
52Crossing the Tea7a *10
53Pink Roadster7a ***64
54Whoomze Got der Keys to me Beema6c *29
55Hymenopteran Hippopotamus6c+ *5
56PickledXS 6a  
57Relay5a 2
58Karmacoma6a *4
59Forrest Gump6a+ **2
60Barnacle Traverse5c **30
62PathosHVS 5b 2
63NeanderthalHVD 3
64Easy WallD 3
65Long OverdueHVS 5a 2
66Hot LipsE1 5c 3
67OggieHVD 7
68CodHVS 4c 8
69Cod Direct6b+ *5
70Abbot's WayHVS 5a **57
71Abbot's WallS 4a 37
72BinkyHS 4b **60
73Bonky6a+ *4
74Chastity CornerVS 4b *44
75Celibate Arete6a+ *1
76Oh Brother!E2 5c *5
77Red MonkVS 4b 3
78SenexE1 5b 5
79VeinsE2 5c 7
80BloodE1 5b **78
81UparoundupVS 4c  
82ArcheryE1 5b 8
83JellyfishVS 4c 13
84RuddigoreHS 4a 26
85Red CrackHS 4a 59
86Ruddy CornerHVD 14
87Captain ScarletE2 5b 4
88Killer QueenE5 6b **1
89Captain's CornerVS 4c 9
90Lewtenant FosscakeHVS 5a  
91IzitsoHVS 5a 32
92Admiral of the LineE1 5b *3
93Raw UmberE4 5c 6
94Three Dozen ValiumE5 6a *4
95Photo Thirty-SixE4 6a 1
96Evening ButtressVD 8
97Jennie's eveningM 1
98Evening AreteVD 8
99Mini Traverse6a *2
100Mini Arete5b *3
101Corker6c+ *3
103MemoriesV1 5b *3
105Walking the Plank5a *10
106Sirocco3+ 4
107Mistral3 4
108Broadside3+ 5
109Woe -is-uh-me-bop6a+ **3
110Diddy Wah Diddy6a *1
111Squall3+ *7
112John Smith4c 1
113Die by the SwordE2 5c 2
114SwashbucklerS 4a *14
115Blood & SandE3 5c *3
116Gunga Din6a *4
117Douglas Fairbanks Jnr.HVS 4c 1
118Piracy Direct Finish5a *3
119Piracy3+ *6
120Guided6a *2
121Jim Jam4c **6
122Perfect Day5a *4
123Faded3+ 2
125Hidden GrooveVS 4b *6
126Earthbound Mystic5a 3
127Scar Face5a 1
128Cloudburst4c **9
129That Riveria Touch6a+ *1
130Calcite DiamondE3 5c **5
131T - Mac5c 4
132Rocky Rocks4a 5
134Don't see Slater3 2
135He hadn't the heart for it2+ 2
136Must dash2 2
137Chicken and Egg2 2
138Higgs Boson4a *2
139Reptilian Brain3+ 2
140The older I get, the better I was2+ *5
141I'm not me!2+ 2
142Easy like Sunday Morning3+ 2
143Partial Recall2+ 2
144Nice day at work Brian?4c 1
146Hope StreetHS 4b * 
148Lick My Decals off Baby5c 4
149Buggie Boogie Woogie6a **4
150Living Zawn6b **2
151Holy Mackerel6c **3
153Route 12 3
154Ray Zazorn4a 4
155Tied Line6a 2
156Placebo4c *3
157Meds4a 1
158Sealed4a 1
159Thursday RibS 3
160Thursday CornerHVD 1
161ZipperE1 5b  
162SchizophreniaHS 4b  
163Fine Little HandsHVS 5a  
164Little HeartE1 5b  
165Gugu WackHVS 4c  
166Sun's RaysE1 5a 2
167Flying FifteenE1 5a *4
168FRBHVS 5a  
169Frosty Jack'sE1 5a 2
170Blind PewE4 6a 2
171Crystal CornerD 2
172Little Red BookE3 5c *2
173Captain FlintE1 5a 1
174Hawkin's ClimbHS 4a **4
175Early DoorsHVS 5a *2
176Rum TruffleHVS 5a  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Forrest Gump and Karmacoma have been re-climbed after the rockfall. Grades unchanged and rock is stable.
Kafoozalem - 20/Aug/15
Barnacle Traverse has never been banned as long as you top out before the White Rhino Tea Buttress (ie. the original finish. Barnacle Traverse Continuation is banned since it lies below White Rhino Tea. Forrest Gump and Karmacoma are not banned but appear to have suffered rockfall this winter and so need reclimbing.
Kafoozalem - 26/Jun/14
Hi, now that Barnacle Traverse is not bird banned is this the same for the climbs around Forrest Gump?
Mr Tickle - 25/Jun/14 Video of our short trip down here.
Stanners - 23/Sep/12
I'm struggling to find the lines Living Zawn, Holy Mackerel, Tied Line and Placebo. Are they in the narrow overhanging zawn towards the Eastern Shelf? If they are i'm really struggling to pick out which lines they take, could anyone enlighten me?
Mr Tickle - 19/May/12
I have added photo topo's to the picture gallery which should explain all.
Kafoozalem - 16/Nov/09
Is there a sketch map anywhere to show how to get down to the Oz Buttress? Spent a futile couple of hours walking back and forth to try to find flat topped white rock as mentioned in the guidebook.
Pay Attention - 06/Aug/09