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These details were last updated on 26/Nov/2013

Berry Head (Coastguard Cliffs)

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 162 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 24m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Sheltered south facing sun trap with a mixture of tidal and non tidal climbing.

Three star DWS venue ... White Rhino Tea (F7a), Pink Roadster (F7a) and Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+). (nb. all bird banned Mar 1 to July 31). Dave Henderson's website has excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml

Classic trad ... Chastity Corner (HS 4a), Hawkin's Climb (HS 4a), Abbot's Way (HVS 5a) and Blood (E1 5b).

There is first class easy DWS at Coastguard East. A free pdf guide is available from www.javu.co.uk and www.rustypeg.co.uk. This area is not bird banned so the DWS season can start earlier here.

Check the gallery for various uploaded topo's

Access notes
Bird ban March 1 - July 31 (£1000 fine!) on some parts of this cliff ie. White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation), the Oz Wall, the Ledges above the Oz wall including Lower and Upper Ranger Buttresses and Terminal Zawn. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide.

Red walls, Western Shelf and Eastern Shelf are always open for climbing.

Parking as for Berry Head Quarry.

Take the descent path 100m past the cafe in the Northern Redoubt.

Check the photo gallery for topo's giving detailed approach notes.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

1.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
19 °C
19 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
18 °C
19 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
13 kph

0.8mm rain
Sun
18 °C
17 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), Deep Water (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995), www.javu.co.uk, www.rustypeg.co.uk

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 UPPER & LOWER RANGER BUTTRESSES  
2LaugharneHS  
3Cruise of a lifetimeHVS 5a  
4Ancient EyesE1 5b 1
5Bus StopS 1
6Asante SanaVD 1
7JewelHS  
8Silver CufflinksVD 1
9KatalynVS  
10LeavittHVS 5a  
11The Ultimate PostcardHVS 5a  
12MeditationsHS  
13Clapier-dans-filsS  
14MulinosVS  
15Tulang KecilHS  
16OjeE2 5b  
17LeginHVS 5a  
18CasablancaE1 5b  
19CarregVS  
20DzirnavasHVS 5a  
21Sai QotS  
22Balta MajaHS  
 OZ WALL  
24Oz Wall Traverse6b+ ***60
25Whizz of a Wiz6c ***5
26Lucid6b+ 4
27The Groovy Gang6c **3
28Hanging RibHVS 5b  
29Over the RainbowE3 5b *1
30Follow the Yellow Gouettes-d'eauVS 5a ** 
31Pommie GraniteE4 6b * 
32Down With His PantsVS 4c 1
33Boulder dashHVS 5a  
34New PathsE4 6b ** 
35AssanaHVS 5a  
36Oz CourtE2 5b *1
37WizardE2 5b  
38Mrs Joshua6b+ *2
39Spunk's in the Bin6b 1
40The Missing Link7b+ **2
41Taipan Oooh Taipan7a+ **4
42Cavewoman6c ***51
43Cavewoman in & out6c **6
 WHITE RHINO BUTTRESS  
45Barnacle Continuation Traverse6b **33
46Edge of the Jungle4a *41
47Humanize6a+ *51
48Are We Human?6b 5
49Jose Sandeles6c+ *18
50White Rhino Tea7a ***80
51Watting Yer Ouzel6c+ *29
52Crossing the Tea7a *3
53Pink Roadster7a ***36
54Whoomze Got der Keys to me Beema6c *16
55Hymenopteran Hippopotamus6c+ *4
56PickledXS 6a  
57Relay5a 2
58Karmacoma6a *2
59Forrest Gump6a+ **2
60Barnacle Traverse5c **19
 RED WALL AREA  
62PathosHVS 5b 2
63NeanderthalHVD 3
64Easy WallD 1
65Hot LipsE1 5c 3
66OggieHVD 5
67CodHVS 4c 7
68Cod Direct6b+ *3
69Abbot's WayHVS 5a **53
70Abbot's WallS 4a 29
71BinkyHS 4b *50
72Bonky6a+ *2
73Chastity CornerHS 4a *37
74Project Arete6a+ *1
75Oh Brother!E2 5c *5
76Red MonkVS 4b 2
77SenexE1 5b 4
78VeinsE2 5c 4
79BloodE1 5b *65
80UparoundupVS 4c  
81ArcheryE1 5b 8
82JellyfishVS 4c 12
83RuddigoreHS 4a 24
84Red CrackHS 4a 50
85Ruddy CornerHVD 14
86Captain ScarletE2 5b 4
87Killer QueenE5 6b **1
 Climb nameGradex
88Captain's CornerVS 4c 8
89Lewtenant FosscakeHVS 5a  
90IzitsoHVS 5a 31
91Admiral of the LineE1 5b *3
92Raw UmberE4 5c 5
93Three Dozen ValiumE5 6a *4
94Photo Thirty-SixE4 6a 1
95Evening ButtressVD 8
96Jennie's eveningM 1
97Evening AreteVD 6
98Mini Traverse6a *1
 WESTERN SHELF  
100MemoriesV1 5b *1
 SWASHBUCKLER AREA  
102Walking the Plank5a *6
103Sirocco3+ 1
104Mistral3 1
105Broadside3+ 3
106Woe -is-uh-me-bop6a+ **2
107Diddy Wah Diddy6a *1
108Squall3+ *7
109John Smith4c 1
110Die by the SwordE2 5c 2
111SwashbucklerS 4a *13
112Blood & SandE3 5c *3
113Gunga Din6a *2
114Douglas Fairbanks Jnr.HVS 4c 1
115Piracy Direct Finish5a *2
116Piracy3+ *6
117Guided6a *2
118Jim Jam4c **4
119Perfect Day5a *4
120Faded3+ 2
 CLOUDBURST BUTTRESS  
122Hidden GrooveVS 4b *6
123Earthbound Mystic5a 3
124Scar Face5a 1
125Cloudburst4c **8
126That Riveria Touch6a+ *1
127Calcite DiamondE3 5c **4
128T - Mac5c 4
129Rocky Rocks4a 3
 EASY BUTTRESS  
131Don't see Slater3 2
132He hadn't the heart for it2+ 2
133Must dash2 2
134Chicken and Egg2 2
135Higgs Boson4a *2
136Reptilian Brain3+ 2
137The older I get, the better I was2+ *4
138I'm not me!2+ 2
139Easy like Sunday Morning3+ 2
140Partial Recall2+ 2
141Nice day at work Brian?4c 1
 EASTERN SHELF  
143Hope StreetHS 4b * 
 LIVING ZAWN  
145Lick My Decals off Baby5c 3
146Buggie Boogie Woogie6a **4
147Living Zawn6b **2
148Holy Mackerel6c **3
 HIDDEN ZAWN  
150Route 12 2
151Ray Zazorn4a 2
152Tied Line6a 2
153Placebo4c *3
154Meds4a 1
155Sealed4a 1
156Thursday RibS 2
157Thursday CornerHVD 1
158ZipperE1 5b  
159SchizophreniaHS 4b  
160Fine Little HandsHVS 5a  
161Little HeartE1 5b  
162Gugu WackHVS 4c  
163Sun's RaysE1 5a 2
164Flying FifteenE1 5a *2
165FRBHVS 5a  
166Frosty Jack'sE1 5a 2
167Blind PewE4 6a 2
168Crystal CornerD 2
169Little Red BookE3 5c *2
170Captain FlintE1 5a 1
171Hawkin's ClimbHS 4a **3
172Early DoorsHVS 5a *2
173Rum TruffleHVS 5a  
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Barnacle Traverse has never been banned as long as you top out before the White Rhino Tea Buttress (ie. the original finish. Barnacle Traverse Continuation is banned since it lies below White Rhino Tea. Forrest Gump and Karmacoma are not banned but appear to have suffered rockfall this winter and so need reclimbing.
Kafoozalem - 26/Jun/14

Hi, now that Barnacle Traverse is not bird banned is this the same for the climbs around Forrest Gump?
Mr Tickle - 25/Jun/14

https://vimeo.com/49613643 Video of our short trip down here.
Stanners - 23/Sep/12

I'm struggling to find the lines Living Zawn, Holy Mackerel, Tied Line and Placebo. Are they in the narrow overhanging zawn towards the Eastern Shelf? If they are i'm really struggling to pick out which lines they take, could anyone enlighten me?
Mr Tickle - 19/May/12

I have added photo topo's to the picture gallery which should explain all.
Kafoozalem - 16/Nov/09

Is there a sketch map anywhere to show how to get down to the Oz Buttress? Spent a futile couple of hours walking back and forth to try to find flat topped white rock as mentioned in the guidebook.
Pay attention - 06/Aug/09