View larger mapGrid Ref SX 946566 (OS Landranger #202)

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These details were last updated on 08/Nov/2010

Berry Head Quarry

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 58 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 21m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Can be damp and lichenous in winter. Single and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. Includes some "tottering piles" but also some great routes such as Paranoid (E1 5B) and Sunset Boulevard (E4 6a). Harder routes are more solid. There is a heavy reliance on old suspect fixed gear and top rope inspection might be advisable.

Good deep water soloing (DWS) if you can avoid the anglers and their rubbish. Dave Henderson's website provides an excellent miniguide to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/BerryHeadQuarry/index.shtml

New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

Access notes
From north take A3022 to Brixham. Inside the town limits is an old white toll house - turn R (Monksbridge Rd) and follow signs for Berry Head, all the way to the car park by the Napoleonic Southern Redoubt. Walk along a road towards the cafe and coastguard station then fork left on a metalled road that leads back rightwards down into the quarry.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.1mm rain
Sunny periods
17 °C
10 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
17 °C
22 kph

2.6mm rain
Sunny periods
13 °C
33 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
14 °C
25 kph

6.3mm rain
Mainly cloudy
14 °C
45 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Deep Water (2007), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Quality StreetV+ 4a **18
2Milky Bar KidE1 5b  
3Back in TownXS 5b  
 ARCH ZAWN  
5Wavewalker7a *5
6Breathless7a **1
7Gothic6c+ **1
8Man in Black6b+ * 
9And All Because..6a+ **7
10SunkissE2 5c  
11The Arch Zawn Traverse6a+ *17
 THE NAVIGATOR PINNACLE  
13Crunchie4a *34
14Loftgroover5a **30
15Rhythm of the night7a **1
16Deep House6a+ *1
17Soul to Soul5a *1
18Disco Babes from Outer Space7a+  
19Disco Babes from Outer Space Direct7a+ *1
20M.C. Navigator7a+ **4
 THE LABYRINTH PINNACLE  
22Austin's Left Hand6a 2
23Austin's powers6a+ *23
24Brown Paper6a+ *6
25Barefoot and the Hendersons4a *22
26Labyrinth Pinnacle Traverse6a+ *31
27Pigeon Street6a+ *6
28LabyrinthVS 4c **8
29Labyrinth Variation Start6b+ * 
30The Dulux Start6b+  
31Shady Lane6b+ **2
32T-Minus Ten6c+ 3
 Climb nameGradex
 MAIN QUARRY FACE  
34MalteaserHVS 5a  
35ArncliffeVS 4c 1
36Graunching GilbertHVS 4c  
37Beggar's BanquetE2 5b * 
38EquipoiseE4 6a ***2
39PorpoiseE5 6b  
40Boo-bah PlostHVS 5a  
41ParanoidE1 5b **5
42Home BrewHVS 4c  
43Sunset BoulevardE4 6a *** 
44Burning BridgesE3 5c ** 
45DespareteE3 5c **1
46Dust DevilE1 5b  
47Yellow RurtiesHVS 5a *5
48Clean CutE4 5c  
49Dirt EaterE4 6a * 
50Big Fish in a Little SeaE6 6b **1
51The Distant Dream of a Delinquent TeenE4 6a  
52Finding NemoE1 5c  
53Opus DeiE2 5b * 
 QUARRY BAY 2  
55Foos Won't MoosS  
56WinterludeVS 4c  
57SaltHS 1
 QUARRY BAY 1  
59Semi-detatchedHVS 4c 1
60Big FunVS 4c  
61CaiusE1 5a 1
62Butt MunchE1 5a  
63Freddie FreeloaderV0+ 5a 1
64Hysoscella Sideways7a *2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The climbs are really good but the area needs a fishermen ban! ( the chavvy littering types at least) On a positive note, the area is home to a friendly but massive seal.
francois - 22/Jun/14

The DWS area is absolutely disgusting, litter and stagnant pools everywhere around the fishing areas. Lead by example and take your crap home. Still, the DWS routes are good fun!
Cheese Monkey - 14/Jul/11