Altitude 21m a.s.l
The old man and the sea! © tomrainbow
Most of the climbs have been neglected since their first ascents and unless stated, an onsight attempt is not recommended. It is wise to abseil most routes before climbing them since the cliff has an unpleasant tendency to shed huge blocks and the gear placements fill up with soil and grass. Gardening whilst climbing is a particularly dangerous activity here and belayers are advised to stay out of the line of fire. If these warnings haven't put you off you can expect a most excellent adventure.
Can be damp and lichenous in winter. Single and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. Includes some "tottering piles" but also some great routes such as Paranoid (E1 5B), Yellow Rurties (E1 5a) and Sunset Boulevard (E4 6a). Harder routes are more solid. There is a heavy reliance on old suspect fixed gear and top rope inspection might be advisable.
Good deep water soloing (DWS) if you can avoid the anglers and their rubbish. Dave Henderson's website provides an excellent miniguide to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/BerryHeadQuarry/index.shtml
New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml
From north take A3022 to Brixham. Inside the town limits is an old white toll house - turn R (Monksbridge Rd) and follow signs for Berry Head, all the way to the car park by the Napoleonic Southern Redoubt. Walk along a road towards the cafe and coastguard station then fork left on a metalled road that leads back rightwards down into the quarry.
It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve. Brixham MRCC - (01803) 882 704
|The climbs are really good but the area needs a fishermen ban! ( the chavvy littering types at least)
On a positive note, the area is home to a friendly but massive seal.|
francois - 22/Jun/14
|The DWS area is absolutely disgusting, litter and stagnant pools everywhere around the fishing areas. Lead by example and take your crap home. Still, the DWS routes are good fun!|
Cheese Monkey - 14/Jul/11