Berry Head Quarry

Climbs 58 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 21m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Can be damp and lichenous in winter. Single and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. Includes some "tottering piles" but also some great routes such as Paranoid (E1 5B) and Sunset Boulevard (E4 6a). Harder routes are more solid. There is a heavy reliance on old suspect fixed gear and top rope inspection might be advisable.

Good deep water soloing (DWS) if you can avoid the anglers and their rubbish. Dave Henderson's website provides an excellent miniguide to the DWS here

New route info can be found here

Access notes
From north take A3022 to Brixham. Inside the town limits is an old white toll house - turn R (Monksbridge Rd) and follow signs for Berry Head, all the way to the car park by the Napoleonic Southern Redoubt. Walk along a road towards the cafe and coastguard station then fork left on a metalled road that leads back rightwards down into the quarry.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Deep Water (2007), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Quality StreetV+ 4a **
2Milky Bar KidE1 5b
3Back in TownXS 5b
5Wavewalker7a *
6Breathless7a **
7Gothic6c+ **
8Man in Black6b+ *
9And All Because..6a+ **
10SunkissE2 5c
11The Arch Zawn Traverse6a+ *
13Crunchie4a *
14Loftgroover5a **
15Rhythm of the night7a **
16Deep House6a+ *
17Soul to Soul5a *
18Disco Babes from Outer Space7a+
19Disco Babes from Outer Space Direct7a+ *
20M.C. Navigator7a+ **
22Austin's Left Hand6a
23Austin's powers6a+ *
24Brown Paper6a+ *
25Barefoot and the Hendersons4a *
26Labyrinth Pinnacle Traverse6a+ *
27Pigeon Street6a+ *
28LabyrinthVS 4c **
29Labyrinth Variation Start6b+ *
30The Dulux Start6b+
31Shady Lane6b+ **
32T-Minus Ten6c+
34MalteaserHVS 5a
35ArncliffeVS 4c
36Graunching GilbertHVS 4c
37Beggar's BanquetE2 5b *
38EquipoiseE4 6a ***
39PorpoiseE5 6b
40Boo-bah PlostHVS 5a
41ParanoidE1 5b **
42Home BrewHVS 4c
43Sunset BoulevardE4 6a ***
44Burning BridgesE3 5c **
45DespareteE3 5c **
46Dust DevilE1 5b
47Yellow RurtiesHVS 5a *
48Clean CutE4 5c
49Dirt EaterE4 6a *
50Big Fish in a Little SeaE6 6b **
51The Distant Dream of a Delinquent TeenE4 6a
52Finding NemoE1 5c
53Opus DeiE2 5b *
55Foos Won't MoosS
56WinterludeVS 4c
59Semi-detatchedHVS 4c
60Big FunVS 4c
61CaiusE1 5a
62Butt MunchE1 5a
63Freddie FreeloaderV0+ 5a
64Hysoscella Sideways7a *
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The climbs are really good but the area needs a fishermen ban! ( the chavvy littering types at least) On a positive note, the area is home to a friendly but massive seal.
francois - 22/Jun/14
The DWS area is absolutely disgusting, litter and stagnant pools everywhere around the fishing areas. Lead by example and take your crap home. Still, the DWS routes are good fun!
Cheese Monkey - 14/Jul/11
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 08/Nov/2010

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