Berry Head Quarry Devon, ENGLAND
Climbs 57 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 21m a.s.l – Faces N
Can be damp and lichenous in winter. Single and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. Includes some "tottering piles" but also some great routes such as Paranoid (E1 5B) and Sunset Boulevard (E4 6a). Harder routes are more solid. There is a heavy reliance on old suspect fixed gear and top rope inspection might be advisable.
Good deep water soloing (DWS) if you can avoid the anglers and their rubbish. Dave Henderson's website provides an excellent miniguide to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/BerryHeadQuarry/index.shtml
New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml
From north take A3022 to Brixham. Inside the town limits is an old white toll house - turn R (Monksbridge Rd) and follow signs for Berry Head, all the way to the car park by the Napoleonic Southern Redoubt. Walk along a road towards the cafe and coastguard station then fork left on a metalled road that leads back rightwards down into the quarry.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), Deep Water (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)
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The climbs are really good but the area needs a fishermen ban! ( the chavvy littering types at least)
On a positive note, the area is home to a friendly but massive seal.|
francois - 22/Jun/14
The DWS area is absolutely disgusting, litter and stagnant pools everywhere around the fishing areas. Lead by example and take your crap home. Still, the DWS routes are good fun!
Cheese Monkey - 14/Jul/11