Climbs 73
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 21m a.s.l
Faces N

The old man and the sea! © tomrainbow

Crag features

 

The deep water soloing (DWS) is excellent and is unrestricted so the season starts whenever you are brave enough.  The venue is less plagued by anglers rubbish than in previous years. Dave Henderson's website provides an excellent miniguide to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/BerryHeadQuarry/index.shtml

Two new sport routes have recently been added and are definitely the safest and amongst the best routes here.

Most of the trad climbs have been neglected since their first ascents and unless stated, an onsight attempt is not recommended. It is wise to abseil most routes before climbing them since the cliff has an unpleasant tendency to shed huge blocks and the gear placements fill up with soil and grass. Gardening whilst climbing is a particularly dangerous activity here and belayers are advised to stay out of the line of fire. If these warnings haven't put you off you can expect a most excellent adventure.

Paranoid (E1 5B) and  Yellow Rurties (E1 5a) have been recently checked (2014/15) and are ok for onsight attempts by experienced parties.


 


 

Approach notes

From north take A3022 to Brixham. Inside the town limits is an old white toll house - turn R (Monksbridge Rd) and follow signs for Berry Head, all the way to the car park by the Napoleonic Southern Redoubt. Walk along a road towards the cafe and coastguard station then fork left on a metalled road that leads back rightwards down into the quarry.

Access Advice

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve. Brixham MRCC - (01803) 882 704

Guidebooks

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
The climbs are really good but the area needs a fishermen ban! ( the chavvy littering types at least) On a positive note, the area is home to a friendly but massive seal.
francois - 22/Jun/14
The DWS area is absolutely disgusting, litter and stagnant pools everywhere around the fishing areas. Lead by example and take your crap home. Still, the DWS routes are good fun!
Cheese Monkey - 14/Jul/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Quality StreetV+ 4a **26
2Milky Bar Kid
-
E1 5b  
3Back in Town
-
XS 5b  
 Arch Zawn 
5Wavewalker7a *7
6Breathless7a **3
7Gothic6c+ **5
8Man in Black6b+ *2
9Arch Zawn Chimneyf4 1
10Sea WormHS 4b  
11Stag PartyS 4a *1
12Stag Party DWS4c **1
13Death by Jellyfish Variation5b *1
14Death by Jellyfish5b *1
15RastusE1 5a *1
16Rastus (DWS)5c **1
17Close to the Edge6a+ ***1
18Old Man's Ladder6a+ ***1
19Stannah6a *2
20And All Because..6a+ **8
21Sunkiss
-
E2 5c 1
22The Arch Zawn Traverse6a+ *21
 The Navigator Pinnacle 
24Crunchie4a *43
25Loftgroover5a **42
26Rhythm of the night7a **2
27Deep House6a+ *1
28Soul to Soul5c *2
29Disco Babes from Outer Space7a+  
30Disco Babes from Outer Space Direct7a+ *1
31M.C. Navigator7a+ **6
 The Labyrinth Pinnacle 
33Austin's Left Hand6a 6
34Austin's powers6a+ *33
35Brown Paper6a+ *8
36Barefoot and the Hendersons4a *25
37Labyrinth Pinnacle Traverse6a+ *39
38Pigeon Street6a+ *6
39LabyrinthVS 4c **9
40Labyrinth Variation Start6b+ * 
41The Dulux Start6b+ 1
42Shady Lane6b+ **4
43T-Minus Ten6c+ 4
 Main Quarry Face 
45Malteaser
-
HVS 5a  
46Arncliffe
-
VS 4c 2
47Graunching Gilbert
-
HVS 4c 1
48Beggar's BanquetE3 5b 1
49EquipoiseE4 6a ***2
50Porpoise
-
E5 6b  
51Boo-bah Plost
-
HVS 5a  
52The Ripples of Power P15c 1
53The Ripples of Power6c 6
54ParanoidE1 5b **5
55The Good Boy Tufa Palace (P1)5a 3
56The Good Boy Tufa Palace6b+ **5
57Home Brew
-
HVS 4c 1
58Sunset BoulevardE4 6a * 
59Burning BridgesE3 5c ** 
60Desparete
-
E3 5c **1
61Dust Devil
-
E1 5b  
62Yellow RurtiesE1 5a *8
63Clean Cut
-
E4 5c  
64Dirt Eater
-
E4 6a * 
65Big Fish in a Little Sea
-
E6 6b **1
66The Distant Dream of a Delinquent Teen
-
E4 6a  
67Finding Nemo
-
E1 5c  
68Opus Dei
-
E2 5b * 
 Quarry Bay 2 
70Foos Won't Moos
-
S  
71Winterlude
-
VS 4c  
72Salt
-
HS 1
 Quarry Bay 1 
74Semi-detatched
-
HVS 4c 1
75Big Fun
-
VS 4c  
76Caius
-
E1 5a 1
77Butt Munch
-
E1 5a  
78Freddie Freeloader
-
V0+ 1
79Hysoscella Sideways7a *2

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