Berry Head Quarry

Climbs 59 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 21m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Can be damp and lichenous in winter. Single and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. Includes some "tottering piles" but also some great routes such as Paranoid (E1 5B) and Sunset Boulevard (E4 6a). Harder routes are more solid. There is a heavy reliance on old suspect fixed gear and top rope inspection might be advisable.

Good deep water soloing (DWS) if you can avoid the anglers and their rubbish. Dave Henderson's website provides an excellent miniguide to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/BerryHeadQuarry/index.shtml

New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

Access notes
From north take A3022 to Brixham. Inside the town limits is an old white toll house - turn R (Monksbridge Rd) and follow signs for Berry Head, all the way to the car park by the Napoleonic Southern Redoubt. Walk along a road towards the cafe and coastguard station then fork left on a metalled road that leads back rightwards down into the quarry.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Deep Water (2007), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Quality StreetV+ 4a **26
2Milky Bar KidE1 5b  
3Back in TownXS 5b  
 ARCH ZAWN  
5Wavewalker7a *6
6Breathless7a **1
7Gothic6c+ **1
8Man in Black6b+ * 
9Old Man's Ladder6a+ *** 
10And All Because..6a+ **7
11SunkissE2 5c  
12The Arch Zawn Traverse6a+ *17
 THE NAVIGATOR PINNACLE  
14Crunchie4a *35
15Loftgroover5a **35
16Rhythm of the night7a **1
17Deep House6a+ *1
18Soul to Soul5a *1
19Disco Babes from Outer Space7a+  
20Disco Babes from Outer Space Direct7a+ *1
21M.C. Navigator7a+ **4
 THE LABYRINTH PINNACLE  
23Austin's Left Hand6a 3
24Austin's powers6a+ *25
25Brown Paper6a+ *6
26Barefoot and the Hendersons4a *22
27Labyrinth Pinnacle Traverse6a+ *32
28Pigeon Street6a+ *6
29LabyrinthVS 4c **8
30Labyrinth Variation Start6b+ * 
31The Dulux Start6b+ 1
32Shady Lane6b+ **3
33T-Minus Ten6c+ 3
 MAIN QUARRY FACE  
35MalteaserHVS 5a  
36ArncliffeVS 4c 2
37Graunching GilbertHVS 4c 1
38Beggar's BanquetE2 5b * 
39EquipoiseE4 6a ***2
40PorpoiseE5 6b  
41Boo-bah PlostHVS 5a  
42ParanoidE1 5b **5
43Home BrewHVS 4c 1
44Sunset BoulevardE4 6a *** 
45Burning BridgesE3 5c ** 
46DespareteE3 5c **1
47Dust DevilE1 5b  
48Yellow RurtiesHVS 5a *7
49Clean CutE4 5c  
50Dirt EaterE4 6a * 
51Big Fish in a Little SeaE6 6b **1
52The Distant Dream of a Delinquent TeenE4 6a  
53Finding NemoE1 5c  
54Opus DeiE2 5b * 
 QUARRY BAY 2  
56Foos Won't MoosS  
57WinterludeVS 4c  
58SaltHS 1
 QUARRY BAY 1  
60Semi-detatchedHVS 4c 1
61Big FunVS 4c  
62CaiusE1 5a 1
63Butt MunchE1 5a  
64Freddie FreeloaderV0+ 5a 1
65Hysoscella Sideways7a *2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The climbs are really good but the area needs a fishermen ban! ( the chavvy littering types at least) On a positive note, the area is home to a friendly but massive seal.
francois - 22/Jun/14
The DWS area is absolutely disgusting, litter and stagnant pools everywhere around the fishing areas. Lead by example and take your crap home. Still, the DWS routes are good fun!
Cheese Monkey - 14/Jul/11