Climbs 63
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 21m a.s.l
Faces N

The old man and the sea! © tomrainbow

Crag features

 

Most of the climbs have been neglected since their first ascents and unless stated, an onsight attempt is not recommended. It is wise to abseil most routes before climbing them since the cliff has an unpleasant tendency to shed huge blocks and the gear placements fill up with soil and grass. Gardening whilst climbing is a particularly dangerous activity here and belayers are advised to stay out of the line of fire. If these warnings haven't put you off you can expect a most excellent adventure.

Can be damp and lichenous in winter. Single and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. Includes some "tottering piles" but also some great routes such as Paranoid (E1 5B), Yellow Rurties (E1 5a) and Sunset Boulevard (E4 6a). Harder routes are more solid. There is a heavy reliance on old suspect fixed gear and top rope inspection might be advisable.
Good deep water soloing (DWS) if you can avoid the anglers and their rubbish. Dave Henderson's website provides an excellent miniguide to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/BerryHeadQuarry/index.shtml

New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

Approach notes

From north take A3022 to Brixham. Inside the town limits is an old white toll house - turn R (Monksbridge Rd) and follow signs for Berry Head, all the way to the car park by the Napoleonic Southern Redoubt. Walk along a road towards the cafe and coastguard station then fork left on a metalled road that leads back rightwards down into the quarry.

Access Advice

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve. Brixham MRCC - (01803) 882 704

Guidebooks

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
The climbs are really good but the area needs a fishermen ban! ( the chavvy littering types at least) On a positive note, the area is home to a friendly but massive seal.
francois - 22/Jun/14
The DWS area is absolutely disgusting, litter and stagnant pools everywhere around the fishing areas. Lead by example and take your crap home. Still, the DWS routes are good fun!
Cheese Monkey - 14/Jul/11
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Quality StreetV+ 4a **26
2Milky Bar Kid
-
E1 5b  
3Back in Town
-
XS 5b  
 Arch Zawn 
5Wavewalker7a *7
6Breathless7a **2
7Gothic6c+ **2
8Man in Black6b+ * 
9Old Man's Ladder6a+ *** 
10And All Because..6a+ **8
11Sunkiss
-
E2 5c  
12The Arch Zawn Traverse6a+ *18
 The Navigator Pinnacle 
14Crunchie4a *36
15Loftgroover5a **39
16Rhythm of the night7a **2
17Deep House6a+ *1
18Soul to Soul5a *1
19Disco Babes from Outer Space7a+  
20Disco Babes from Outer Space Direct7a+ *1
21M.C. Navigator7a+ **5
 The Labyrinth Pinnacle 
23Austin's Left Hand6a 3
24Austin's powers6a+ *26
25Brown Paper6a+ *6
26Barefoot and the Hendersons4a *23
27Labyrinth Pinnacle Traverse6a+ *33
28Pigeon Street6a+ *6
29LabyrinthVS 4c **9
30Labyrinth Variation Start6b+ * 
31The Dulux Start6b+ 1
32Shady Lane6b+ **4
33T-Minus Ten6c+ 4
 Main Quarry Face 
35Malteaser
-
HVS 5a  
36Arncliffe
-
VS 4c 2
37Graunching Gilbert
-
HVS 4c 1
38Beggar's BanquetE3 5b 1
39EquipoiseE4 6a ***2
40Porpoise
-
E5 6b  
41Boo-bah Plost
-
HVS 5a  
42The Ripples of Power P15c  
43The Ripples of Power6c 2
44ParanoidE1 5b **5
45The Good Boy Tufa Palace (P1)5a 2
46The Good Boy Tufa Palace6b+ **4
47Home Brew
-
HVS 4c 1
48Sunset BoulevardE4 6a * 
49Burning BridgesE3 5c ** 
50Desparete
-
E3 5c **1
51Dust Devil
-
E1 5b  
52Yellow RurtiesE1 5a *8
53Clean Cut
-
E4 5c  
54Dirt Eater
-
E4 6a * 
55Big Fish in a Little Sea
-
E6 6b **1
56The Distant Dream of a Delinquent Teen
-
E4 6a  
57Finding Nemo
-
E1 5c  
58Opus Dei
-
E2 5b * 
 Quarry Bay 2 
60Foos Won't Moos
-
S  
61Winterlude
-
VS 4c  
62Salt
-
HS 1
 Quarry Bay 1 
64Semi-detatched
-
HVS 4c 1
65Big Fun
-
VS 4c  
66Caius
-
E1 5a 1
67Butt Munch
-
E1 5a  
68Freddie Freeloader
-
V0+ 1
69Hysoscella Sideways7a *2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem