Climbs 64
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 21m a.s.l
Faces N

The old man and the sea! © tomrainbow

Crag features

 

Most of the climbs have been neglected since their first ascents and unless stated, an onsight attempt is not recommended. It is wise to abseil most routes before climbing them since the cliff has an unpleasant tendency to shed huge blocks and the gear placements fill up with soil and grass. Gardening whilst climbing is a particularly dangerous activity here and belayers are advised to stay out of the line of fire. If these warnings haven't put you off you can expect a most excellent adventure.

Paranoid (E1 5B) and  Yellow Rurties (E1 5a) have been recently checked (2014/15) and are ok for onsight attempts by experienced parties.

Two new sport routes have recently been added and are definitely the safest and amongst the best routes here.
 
The deep water soloing (DWS) is excellent and is less plagued by anglers rubbish than in previous years. Dave Henderson's website provides an excellent miniguide to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/BerryHeadQuarry/index.shtml

New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

Approach notes

From north take A3022 to Brixham. Inside the town limits is an old white toll house - turn R (Monksbridge Rd) and follow signs for Berry Head, all the way to the car park by the Napoleonic Southern Redoubt. Walk along a road towards the cafe and coastguard station then fork left on a metalled road that leads back rightwards down into the quarry.

Access Advice

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve. Brixham MRCC - (01803) 882 704

Guidebooks

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
The climbs are really good but the area needs a fishermen ban! ( the chavvy littering types at least) On a positive note, the area is home to a friendly but massive seal.
francois - 22/Jun/14
The DWS area is absolutely disgusting, litter and stagnant pools everywhere around the fishing areas. Lead by example and take your crap home. Still, the DWS routes are good fun!
Cheese Monkey - 14/Jul/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Quality StreetV+ 4a **26
2Milky Bar Kid
-
E1 5b  
3Back in Town
-
XS 5b  
 Arch Zawn 
5Wavewalker7a *7
6Breathless7a **2
7Gothic6c+ **3
8Man in Black6b+ * 
9Old Man's Ladder6a+ ***1
10Stannah6a *1
11And All Because..6a+ **8
12Sunkiss
-
E2 5c  
13The Arch Zawn Traverse6a+ *18
 The Navigator Pinnacle 
15Crunchie4a *39
16Loftgroover5a **40
17Rhythm of the night7a **2
18Deep House6a+ *1
19Soul to Soul5a *2
20Disco Babes from Outer Space7a+  
21Disco Babes from Outer Space Direct7a+ *1
22M.C. Navigator7a+ **5
 The Labyrinth Pinnacle 
24Austin's Left Hand6a 5
25Austin's powers6a+ *28
26Brown Paper6a+ *8
27Barefoot and the Hendersons4a *24
28Labyrinth Pinnacle Traverse6a+ *35
29Pigeon Street6a+ *6
30LabyrinthVS 4c **9
31Labyrinth Variation Start6b+ * 
32The Dulux Start6b+ 1
33Shady Lane6b+ **4
34T-Minus Ten6c+ 4
 Main Quarry Face 
36Malteaser
-
HVS 5a  
37Arncliffe
-
VS 4c 2
38Graunching Gilbert
-
HVS 4c 1
39Beggar's BanquetE3 5b 1
40EquipoiseE4 6a ***2
41Porpoise
-
E5 6b  
42Boo-bah Plost
-
HVS 5a  
43The Ripples of Power P15c 1
44The Ripples of Power6c 5
45ParanoidE1 5b **5
46The Good Boy Tufa Palace (P1)5a 3
47The Good Boy Tufa Palace6b+ **5
48Home Brew
-
HVS 4c 1
49Sunset BoulevardE4 6a * 
50Burning BridgesE3 5c ** 
51Desparete
-
E3 5c **1
52Dust Devil
-
E1 5b  
53Yellow RurtiesE1 5a *8
54Clean Cut
-
E4 5c  
55Dirt Eater
-
E4 6a * 
56Big Fish in a Little Sea
-
E6 6b **1
57The Distant Dream of a Delinquent Teen
-
E4 6a  
58Finding Nemo
-
E1 5c  
59Opus Dei
-
E2 5b * 
 Quarry Bay 2 
61Foos Won't Moos
-
S  
62Winterlude
-
VS 4c  
63Salt
-
HS 1
 Quarry Bay 1 
65Semi-detatched
-
HVS 4c 1
66Big Fun
-
VS 4c  
67Caius
-
E1 5a 1
68Butt Munch
-
E1 5a  
69Freddie Freeloader
-
V0+ 1
70Hysoscella Sideways7a *2

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