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These details were last updated on 08/Nov/2010

Berry Head Quarry

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 57 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 21m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Can be damp and lichenous in winter. Single and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. Includes some "tottering piles" but also some great routes such as Paranoid (E1 5B) and Sunset Boulevard (E4 6a). Harder routes are more solid. There is a heavy reliance on old suspect fixed gear and top rope inspection might be advisable.

Good deep water soloing (DWS) if you can avoid the anglers and their rubbish. Dave Henderson's website provides an excellent miniguide to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/BerryHeadQuarry/index.shtml

New route info can be found here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/index.shtml

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Deep Water (2007), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Quality StreetV+ 4a **16
2Back in TownXS 5b  
 ARCH ZAWN  
4Wavewalker7a *2
5Breathless7a **1
6Gothic6c+ **1
7Man in Black6b+ * 
8And All Because..6a+ **4
9SunkissE2 5c  
10The Arch Zawn Traverse6a+ *13
 THE NAVIGATOR PINNACLE  
12Crunchie4 *27
13Loftgroover5 **23
14Rhythm of the night7a **1
15Deep House6a+ * 
16Soul to Soul5 * 
17Disco Babes from Outer Space7a+  
18Disco Babes from Outer Space Direct7a+ *1
19M.C. Navigator7a+ **4
 THE LABYRINTH PINNACLE  
21Austin's Left Hand6a 1
22Austin's powers6a+ *19
23Brown Paper6a+ *4
24Barefoot and the Hendersons4 *16
25Labyrinth Pinnacle Traverse6a+ *23
26Pigeon Street6a+ *4
27LabyrinthVS 4c **8
28Labyrinth Variation Start6b+ * 
29The Dulux Start6b+  
30Shady Lane6b+ ** 
31T-Minus Ten6c+ 3
 MAIN QUARRY FACE  
 Climb nameGradex
33MalteaserHVS 5a  
34ArncliffeVS 4c  
35Graunching GilbertHVS 4c  
36Beggar's BanquetE2 5b * 
37EquipoiseE4 6a ***2
38PorpoiseE5 6b  
39Boo-bah PlostHVS 5a  
40ParanoidE1 5b **5
41Home BrewHVS 4c  
42Sunset BoulevardE4 6a *** 
43Burning BridgesE3 5c ** 
44DespareteE3 5c **1
45Dust DevilE1 5b  
46Yellow RurtiesHVS 5a *5
47Clean CutE4 5c  
48Dirt EaterE4 6a * 
49Big Fish in a Little SeaE6 6b ** 
50The Distant Dream of a Delinquent TeenE4 6a  
51Finding NemoE1 5c  
52Opus DeiE2 5b * 
 QUARRY BAY 2  
54Foos Won't MoosS  
55WinterludeVS 4c  
56SaltHS 1
 QUARRY BAY 1  
58Semi-detatchedHVS 4c 1
59Big FunVS 4c  
60CaiusE1 5a 1
61Butt MunchE1 5a  
62Freddie FreeloaderV0+ 5a 1
63Hysoscella Sideways7a *2
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Access notes
From north take A3022 to Brixham. Inside the town limits is an old white toll house - turn R (Monksbridge Rd) and follow signs for Berry Head, all the way to the car park by the Napoleonic Southern Redoubt. Walk along a road towards the cafe and coastguard station then fork left on a metalled road that leads back rightwards down into the quarry.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The DWS area is absolutely disgusting, litter and stagnant pools everywhere around the fishing areas. Lead by example and take your crap home. Still, the DWS routes are good fun!
Cheese Monkey ? - 14/Jul/11