There are two crags in the Barnesmore gap area. The main crag (Biddy's Buttress with 14 climbs) is on the south east of the gap and the landowner has banned climbing and walking at this crag. The other crag (McDaid's Buttress) is on the other side of the road on the north west side of Barnesmore gap with 4 climbs recorded and no reported access restrictions.
Online guide see following link http://www.colmcilleclimbers.com/dynamic/guidebook/route_list.php?crag_no=4
NOTE: The owner, Mr Charlie McMenamin, has banned climbing (and walking) on Biddy's Buttress since 19/08/07. No known access restrictions for McDaid's Buttress on the other side of Barnesmore Gap.
Biddy's Buttress - South East side of Barnesmore Gap
There is no longer a bridge across the river, it was demolished as part of a road realignment. A Car Park is below the crag. Wade river, wellies usually adequate, then go up hillside.
This crag lies on the opposite side of Barnesmore Gap to Biddys Buttress. Two routes have been put up on the short but steep SW wall, which has a distinct curving crack in a smooth face. Park at the lay-by as for Biddys Buttress. Cross the road and slog up the steep heather slopes for about 10 mins. A short twin cracked wall lies roughly 400m to the north (right if your looking up at the McDaid's buttress) at roughly the same height. The small crag at the same height facing Ballybofey has yet to be climbed.
|2||Hornbi Ridge||S 4a *||1|
|3||Smut Ridge||VS 4c|
|4||Six-Five Special||S 4a||1|
|5||The Fat Controller||VS 4c|
|6||Iron Horse||VS 4b **||5|
|7||Age of Excellence||VS 4c ***||5|
|8||Jeppers Sleepers||HS 4b||1|
|9||Head of Steam||VS 4c **||3|
|10||Locomotion||S 4a *|
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