Barnesmore Gap

Climbs 18 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 341m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
There are two crags in the Barnesmore gap area. The main crag (Biddy's Buttress with 14 climbs) is on the south east of the gap and the landowner has banned climbing and walking at this crag. The other crag (McDaid's Buttress) is on the other side of the road on the north west side of Barnesmore gap with 4 climbs recorded and no reported access restrictions.

Online guide see following link

Approach notes
NOTE: The owner, Mr Charlie McMenamin, has banned climbing (and walking) on Biddy's Buttress since 19/08/07. No known access restrictions for McDaid's Buttress on the other side of Barnesmore Gap.


Biddy's Buttress - South East side of Barnesmore Gap

There is no longer a bridge across the river, it was demolished as part of a road realignment. A Car Park is below the crag. Wade river, wellies usually adequate, then go up hillside.

McDaid's Buttress

This crag lies on the opposite side of Barnesmore Gap to Biddys Buttress. Two routes have been put up on the short but steep SW wall, which has a distinct curving crack in a smooth face. Park at the lay-by as for Biddys Buttress. Cross the road and slog up the steep heather slopes for about 10 mins. A short twin cracked wall lies roughly 400m to the north (right if your looking up at the McDaid's buttress) at roughly the same height. The small crag at the same height facing Ballybofey has yet to be climbed.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Hornbi RidgeS 4a *1
3Smut RidgeVS 4c  
4Six-Five SpecialS 4a 1
5The Fat ControllerVS 4c  
6Iron HorseVS 4b **5
7Age of ExcellenceVS 4c ***5
8Jeppers SleepersHS 4b 1
9Head of SteamVS 4c **3
10LocomotionS 4a * 
11Narrow Gauge CracksHS 4b  
12Wee ShuntS 4a  
13Owengarve ViaductVS 4b  
14Donegal JunctionVS 4b * 
15Biddy's BeardE1 5b  
17Keema NanE1 5b * 
18Road KillE2 5c *** 
19Riders in the StormHVS 5a * 
20Millennium FalconVS 4c  
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