Climbs 42
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Tom leading the dog © gd303uk

Crag features

Solid, popular crag with the main focus on cracks and pockets. Mainly easier, single pitch routes.

Approach notes

Take the A494 from Mold towards Ruthin, passing through the village of Llanferres. After passing the Druid pub (approx. 200m) you'll come to a lay-by on the left. Park here and cross over the stile and follow the track (public footpath) towards the bridge over the river. Follow the river upstream until a small tributary stream joins the main river from the left. Follow this, passing two more stiles, and the quarry can be found another 100m further on (5 mins walking).

The crag is situated on sheep grazing land, so the owner has requested that dogs be kept away from the area during the month of April, and on leash at all times. Lighting fires and leaving gates open strictly forbidden.


Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
It's a terrible shock to everyone who knew him. Adrian Bridge was immediate past President of the Yorkshire Rambler's Club, a very competent rock climber and a rel gentleman. Words fail...
FATAL ACCIDENT AT POT HOLE QUARRY - On the evening of 08/04/2011 a 65 yo male was climbing by himself and suffered a 12m (40ft)fall - unfortunatly the fall was fatal and he was pronounced dead at the scene - Condolences go out to all his family and friends
christopher bate - 13/Apr/11
stay off the main wall if your leading and you plan on doing sub HVS. top ropers have polished it to hell... obvious good holds = crap. like climbing on ice without crampons and axes
adam06 - 28/Jun/09
Beware of quantities of broken glass if climbing at the far right hand end of the crag. We were there last week and it looks as if the drunken youths have returned and been throwing bottles down from the top. We paid our rope out from a bag to avoid damage and had to pick our way carefully at the bottom of the crag. Also there are glass shards and splinters in cracks and hand holds so please take extra care.
snowcat - 15/Aug/06
Beware the highly polished easier routes at right end - often used by groups for top roping beginners, also if more than 1 minibus in layby better to give it a miss. Can be a warm sheltered suntrap in spring/autumn and great for strengthening fingers and improving footwork. The "Dog" is a classic with more interesting routes and variations on either side.
peteraccre - 07/May/06
Why does the database say VD to E2 when rockfax shows for example two E3's on the main wall? One or other has been updated?
Glyn Jones - 01/Apr/06
A great little place - the rock is real nice to climb on and one can get plenty of mileage around the mid-grades. Didn't spot much litter and there isn't much polish on the HVSs.
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
The crag can get very busy in the summer as it is a sun trap, the routes are all very polished and can seem a bit desperate at times
bludger - 05/Jul/05
we were at pot hole quarry 3 weekends ago. the fire and all the beer cans/bottles were from a bunch of about 6 lads from Liverpool wild camping and generally running amock nothing to do with climbers.
Paul Bowen - 13/May/05
Some of the easier climbs are becoming very polished, which means some of them are becoming pretty serious. However, the E1s and above are spot on!
Ben Davies - 04/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lower Wall 
2SunsetVD 97
3BlindfoldHS 4a 96
4Once Is Never EnoughVS 4c 28
5Burning BushVS 4c 55
6TosaHVS 5a *61
7CimaHVS 5a 34
8Lower Girdle Traversef5+ * 
9Badger discoE2 5b 1
10SideswipeHS 4b 1
11Howlers *HS 4b 3
12Owl Wall (P1)HS 4a * 
 Main Wall 
14Owl Wall (P2)HS 4a *116
15MangoHS 4a *210
16ChutneyVS 5a *96
17DroggoVS 4b *138
18EpitaphHVS 5b *106
19HorndogHVS 5a 30
20Talking LegsE1 5b *27
21Talking FingersHVS 5b *38
22Roger RabbitE1 5c 10
23Right AngleHS 4b 83
24Silly LillyE1 5a *23
25IdE3 5c *13
26Right WallE2 5c **41
27The DogHVS 5b ***310
28Canine MeanderE2 5b **50
29CebaE1 5b ***168
30EgoE3 5c *33
31VettaE1 5a **123
32Vetta VariationE3 5c *16
33MajorHVS 5a **163
34GrizzlyHVS 5a *190
35Un-AidedVS 4b *232
36Tre-FynnonVS 4b 68
37The WatzmannVS 4b *141
38MurrenHS 4b *259
39CristalloVS 4b *187
40SelvaVS 4a 138
41SestoHVD *217
42MestreS 4a 217
43Diagonal RouteE1 5b 5
44Main Wall GirdleE2 5c 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MDowson