Two tiers of generally sound quality limestone, averaging about 10m in height.
For Quarry Wall:
Its situated on the right-hand side of the road if you approach from ruthin and is a couple of hundred yards from the pwll glas sign at the beginning of the village. The crag although one of the most roadside venues in the area does require a 10 min walk due to where you need to park. this should be either the large laybe on the left handside in the village itself or just the otherside of the bridge which leads to Llanfair dc.
Take the A494 from Ruthin south towards Bala for about 3 miles until you reach Pwllglas at a large lay-by on the left hand side. Park here and walk back towards Ruthin for about 100m to a turning on
the right. Follow this lane, passing a renovated mill, over an old railway bridge and past several houses until the road ends and a public footpath can be seen on the right. Take this, heading south, until the edge of the escarpment can be seen.
Please do not drive the car up the road, as parking there will cause annoyance to the owners of the houses, and thus potentially cause access problems.Access notes
The whole escarpment is within an SSSI (Coed Adwy Gwynt SSSI) and there have been issues of vegetation clearance and rock modification which have concerned both the owners and the Natural Rescources for Wales. The original documented climbing is on the northern buttresses and is privately owned. The landowners of the northern buttresses have been informed by their insurers that they cannot allow climbing on this land due to liability concerns. The BMC and the landowners are working together (February 2015) to resolve the situation but in the meantime please be aware that climbing here is not offically sanctioned and climbers could be asked to leave.
Some more recent developments (2012) are on the southern buttress and are on a nature reserve owned and managed by the Butterfly Conservation Trust. Similar issues exist here and climbing only takes place strictly at your own risk and no new bolting or vegetation clearance should take place.
The owners and NRW have stated that there should not be any further vegetation clearance, tree felling or changes to the rock (such as removal of loose rock or clearing blocks from the base) without permission.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|2||Beastie Boys||7a *||3|
|3||The Bloopers and Production No No's||E4 6b||1|
|4||The Wee Beastie||7b||2|
|5||Green Bean||E2 6a||9|
|6||The Route||VS 4c||1|
|9||Old Gunk's Grandad's Pastime||E4 6a||5|
|10||Runner Bean||E5 6a *||3|
|11||Summertime Blues||7a *||3|
|12||Eating Words||6c+ *||5|
|13||The Rock Animal Leaves His Mark||E1 5b|
|14||Ego Maniac||HVS 5a *||2|
|15||Return to the Trees||E1 5b|
|16||Deuce Coupe||E1 5b|
|17||The Nerd||E1 5b|
|18||Mind the Brambles||HS 4b||2|
|19||2nd Line Of Bolts From The Left||6a+||2|
|21||Fritillary Flake||6c *||13|
|22||The Butterfly Collector||7b **||8|
|23||Float Like A Butterfly||7a+ *||6|
|24||Sting Like a Bee||7c **||5|
|BUTTERFLY BUTTRESS BOULDERING|
|30||Clocks Go Back sds||f7A||1|
|33||Pity the Billionaire (Pre-Shelf Colapse)||f6C||9|
|34||Pity the Billionaire||f6C **||1|
|35||Pity the Billionaire SDS||f7A **||1|
|36||Pity the Billionaire RH||f6C *||2|
|39||Lead Rain||f7B **|
|41||Lickin' the Lollipop||f6B||4|
|42||Lickin' the Lollipop sds||f7A||1|
|43||Hobby's Start to TBC sds||f7A||1|
|44||Hobby's Start to FF sds||f6C||1|
|45||Andy's Start to FF sds||f7A||2|
|46||Cassius Clay SDS||f7A+||2|
|47||One in a Million pt1 (The Cassius Clay low punch)||f7B||1|
|49||The Butterfly Collector||f6B||9|
|50||Simon's Start to The Butterfly Collector||f7A||8|
|51||Simon's Start to FF sds||f7A||5|
|52||One in a Million pt1 sds - trav||f7B|
|53||One in a Million to Lollipop||f7A||1|
|54||Thriller in Manilla sds||f6C||6|
|55||Rumble in the Jungle sds||f6B+||6|
|56||Sting like a Butterfly||f7A+||1|
|58||Lost Cause||6c+ *||4|
|59||Lost Arrow||6b+ *||5|
|60||Lost Innocence||6c *||3|
|61||Lost Boys||6b+ **||10|
|65||21 steps to Pigeon Street||6b|
|66||Catch the Pigeon||6a||1|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|Topo for bouldering at Butterfly wall can be found here...
Mark Riley - 25/Jan/12
|Checked out the new bouldering with Mill today. Quality rock and problems. Psyched for getting back!|
Luke Owens - 23/Jan/12