Climbs 66
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces W

Luke Owens - Green Bean - 6b+ © Luke Owens

Crag features

Two tiers of generally sound quality limestone, averaging about 10m in height.

For Quarry Wall:
Its situated on the right-hand side of the road if you approach from ruthin and is a couple of hundred yards from the pwll glas sign at the beginning of the village. The crag although one of the most roadside venues in the area does require a 10 min walk due to where you need to park. this should be either the large laybe on the left handside in the village itself or just the otherside of the bridge which leads to Llanfair dc.

Approach notes

Take the A494 from Ruthin south towards Bala for about 3 miles until you reach Pwllglas at a large lay-by on the left hand side. Park here and walk back towards Ruthin for about 100m to a turning on

the right. Follow this lane, passing a renovated mill, over an old railway bridge and past several houses until the road ends and a public footpath can be seen on the right. Take this, heading south, until the edge of the escarpment can be seen.

Please do not drive the car up the road, as parking there will cause annoyance to the owners of the houses, and thus potentially cause access problems.

Restricted Access

The whole escarpment is within an SSSI (Coed Adwy Gwynt SSSI) and there have been issues of vegetation clearance and rock modification which have concerned both the owners and the Natural Rescources for Wales. The original documented climbing is on the northern buttresses and is privately owned.  The landowners of the northern buttresses have been informed by their insurers that they cannot allow climbing on this land due to liability concerns. The BMC and the landowners are working together (February 2015)  to resolve the situation but in the meantime please be aware that climbing here is not offically sanctioned and climbers could be asked to leave.

Some more recent developments (2012) are on the southern buttress and are on a nature reserve owned and managed by the Butterfly Conservation Trust. Similar issues exist here and climbing only takes place strictly at your own risk and no new bolting or vegetation clearance should take place.

The owners and NRW have stated that there should not be any further vegetation clearance, tree felling or changes to the rock (such as removal of loose rock or clearing blocks from the base) without permission.


Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
Topo for bouldering at Butterfly wall can be found here...
Mark Riley - 25/Jan/12
Checked out the new bouldering with Mill today. Quality rock and problems. Psyched for getting back!
Luke Owens - 23/Jan/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Beast Wall 
2Beastie Boys7a *3
3The Bloopers and Production No No's8a *1
4The Wee Beastie7c *2
5Green Bean6b+ *9
6The RouteVS 4c 1
7The Rock Animal Leaves His Mark
E1 5b  
 Middle Wall 
9CCR7a **7
10Old Gunk's Grandad's Pastime6c+ *5
11Runner Bean6c+ **3
12Summertime Blues7a **3
13Eating Words6c+ **5
14Smooth Wall Left5c  
15Smooth Wall Right6a  
16Mind the BramblesHS 4b 2
172nd Line Of Bolts From The Left6a+ 2
 Peg Wall 
19Ego ManiacHVS 5a 2
20Return to the TreesE1 5b  
21Deuce CoupeE1 5b  
22The NerdE1 5b * 
 Butterfly Buttress 

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