Ruthin Escarpment (Pwllglas Rocks)

Climbs 58 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Two tiers of generally sound quality limestone, averaging about 10m in height.

This climbing Area is on Private Property!

If you do wish to climb here please contact the landowner

prior to use.

Land Owner contact details:-

Mr Fleming

Eyarth House

LL15 2EG

For Quarry Wall:

Its situated on the right-hand side of the road if you approach from ruthin and is a couple of hundred yards from the pwll glas sign at the beginning of the village. The crag although one of the most roadside venues in the area does require a 10 min walk due to where you need to park. this should be either the large laybe on the left handside in the village itself or just the otherside of the bridge which leads to Llanfair dc.

Tel. 01824702745

Access notes
Take the A494 from Ruthin south towards Bala for about 3 miles until you reach Pwllglas at a large

lay-by on the left hand side. Park here and walk back towards Ruthin for about 100m to a turning on

the right. Follow this lane, passing a renovated mill, over an old railway bridge and past several houses until the road ends and a public footpath can be seen on the right. Take this, heading south, until the edge of the escarpment can be seen.

Please do not drive the car up the road, as parking there will cause annoyance to the owners of the houses, and thus potentially cause access problems.

Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), Clwyd Rock (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 BEAST BUTTRESS 
2Beastie Boys7a *
3The Bloopers and Production No No's8a
4The Wee Beastie7b
5Green Bean6b+
6The RouteVS 4c
 MIDDLE BUTTRESS 
8CCR6c+ *
9Old Gunk's Grandad's Pastime7a *
10Runner Bean7a *
11Summertime Blues7a *
12Eating Words6c+ *
13The Rock Animal Leaves His MarkE1 5b
14Ego ManiacHVS 5a *
15Return to the TreesE1 5b
16Deuce CoupeE1 5b
17The NerdE1 5b
18Mind the BramblesHS 4b
192nd Line Of Bolts From The Left6a+
 BUTTERFLY BUTTRESS 
21Fritillary Flake6c *
22The Butterfly Collector7b **
23Float Like A Butterfly7a+ *
24Sting Like a Bee7c **
25Metamorphosis6b
26Metamorphosis Direct6b
27Chrysalis6c+ *
 BUTTERFLY BUTTRESS BOULDERING 
29Three flappersf6C
30Clocks Go Back sdsf7A
31Penniless sdsf6C
326C sdsf6C
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Topo for bouldering at Butterfly wall can be found here... http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=550
Mark Riley - 25/Jan/12
Checked out the new bouldering with Mill today. Quality rock and problems. Psyched for getting back!
Luke Owens - 23/Jan/12
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 06/Jun/2013
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