Ruthin Escarpment (Pwllglas Rocks)

Climbs 60 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features

Two tiers of generally sound quality limestone, averaging about 10m in height.

For Quarry Wall:

Its situated on the right-hand side of the road if you approach from ruthin and is a couple of hundred yards from the pwll glas sign at the beginning of the village. The crag although one of the most roadside venues in the area does require a 10 min walk due to where you need to park. this should be either the large laybe on the left handside in the village itself or just the otherside of the bridge which leads to Llanfair dc.

Approach notes

Take the A494 from Ruthin south towards Bala for about 3 miles until you reach Pwllglas at a large lay-by on the left hand side. Park here and walk back towards Ruthin for about 100m to a turning on

the right. Follow this lane, passing a renovated mill, over an old railway bridge and past several houses until the road ends and a public footpath can be seen on the right. Take this, heading south, until the edge of the escarpment can be seen.

Please do not drive the car up the road, as parking there will cause annoyance to the owners of the houses, and thus potentially cause access problems.

Access notes

The whole escarpment is within an SSSI (Coed Adwy Gwynt SSSI) and there have been issues of vegetation clearance and rock modification which have concerned both the owners and the Natural Rescources for Wales. The original documented climbing is on the northern buttresses and is privately owned.  The landowners of the northern buttresses have been informed by their insurers that they cannot allow climbing on this land due to liability concerns. The BMC and the landowners are working together (February 2015)  to resolve the situation but in the meantime please be aware that climbing here is not offically sanctioned and climbers could be asked to leave.

Some more recent developments (2012) are on the southern buttress and are on a nature reserve owned and managed by the Butterfly Conservation Trust. Similar issues exist here and climbing only takes place strictly at your own risk and no new bolting or vegetation clearance should take place.

The owners and NRW have stated that there should not be any further vegetation clearance, tree felling or changes to the rock (such as removal of loose rock or clearing blocks from the base) without permission.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), Clwyd Rock (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 BEAST BUTTRESS  
2Beastie Boys7a *3
3The Bloopers and Production No No'sE4 6b 1
4The Wee Beastie7b 2
5Green BeanE2 6a 9
6The RouteVS 4c 1
 MIDDLE BUTTRESS  
8CCR6c+ *7
9Old Gunk's Grandad's PastimeE4 6a 5
10Runner BeanE5 6a *3
11Summertime Blues7a *3
12Eating Words6c+ *5
13The Rock Animal Leaves His MarkE1 5b  
14Ego ManiacHVS 5a *2
15Return to the TreesE1 5b  
16Deuce CoupeE1 5b  
17The NerdE1 5b  
18Mind the BramblesHS 4b 2
192nd Line Of Bolts From The Left6a+ 2
 BUTTERFLY BUTTRESS  
21Fritillary Flake6c *13
22The Butterfly Collector7b **8
23Float Like A Butterfly7a+ *6
24Sting Like a Bee7c **5
25Metamorphosis6b 9
26Metamorphosis Direct6b 1
27Chrysalis6c+ *2
 BUTTERFLY BUTTRESS BOULDERING  
29Three flappersf6C 2
30Clocks Go Back sdsf7A 1
31Penniless sdsf6C 4
326C sdsf6C 3
33Pity the Billionaire (Pre-Shelf Colapse)f6C 9
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Topo for bouldering at Butterfly wall can be found here... http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=550
Mark Riley - 25/Jan/12
Checked out the new bouldering with Mill today. Quality rock and problems. Psyched for getting back!
Luke Owens - 23/Jan/12