Climbs 105
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 390m a.s.l
Faces W

Gates of the Golden Dawn © Doug Kerr

Crag features

The huge rampart of Craig Arthur looms impressively over the upper end of the Eglwyseg Valley. At around 40m it is by far the tallest of all the cliffs along the escarpment. The quality and length of the routes - both trad and sport - makes it a crag of national importance, with a number being multi-pitch offerings, adding a welcome dimension to the area that is otherwise dominated by shorter single-pitch climbs. The crag is mostly vertical but frequently crossed by horizontal bands of overhangs, especially in its upper reaches, making for some very exciting finishes. The rock is mainly composed of good-quality weathered white and grey sheets, seamed with some strong crack and flake lines. Some of the less frequented lines still have loose sections and can be a little vegetated. The crag's location is both spectacular and beautiful with expansive views above a base clear of vegetation. Its scree slope shelves away steeply making the exposure felt from the first moves on most routes. Many of the routes, both trad and sport, rely on fixed protection from pegs, threads and bolts although a full rack and double ropes are also required for the trad lines. A clip-stick may be useful as a number of the initial bolts on the sport climbs are fairly high.

Approach notes

Park carefully, and approach as for World's End and walk a further 50m down the road from the ford to a closed gate and a stile on the left side of the road; this marks the Offa's Dyke Pathway. Follow the paththrough the large pineforest and exit from it. Continue by following the trail alongside a rickety old fence, until after about 10 minutes, the corner of a large pine forestis reached, and the edge of Craig Arthur comes into view on the left on the hillside above. Follow the path up the scree slope to the left end of the crag. Please note that the cliffs are off bounds for long periods over the spring-summer for rare nesting birds.
There is no car by the footpath as mentioned in the Clwyd Rock guide book. The only close carpark is the one mentioned above used for Worlds end.

Access Advice

Restrictions apply from  15 February - 20 June. Reason - Nesting Birds

2015 Restrictions changes -  applies from "Black & Blue"  to the far south side of the crag incusive - all routes between these routes are restricted from Feb 15th until June 20th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions.   i.e. all routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector.


Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks: (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
All climbs now updated and arranged in order. A brilliant crag and a highlight of the Eglwyseg Valley.
Luke Owens - 09/Jun/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 La Chacal Area 
2Arthur's PillarVS 4c 1
3Kitten's Paws6c+  
4Monkeys ClawsE3 5c  
5Was it Stew6c+ * 
6The Fall and DeclineE3 5c **12
7Le ChacalE3 5c *17
8Front of House7a **1
9A Touch of ClassE2 5b **12
10Back Yard Holiday6c+ *4
11Swelling Itching Brain7b+ * 
12One Continuous Picnic7b **2
13Three DimensionsE2 5b **9
14Sugar Sweet6c+ 2
15Mon Miel6c 1
16A Bitter Pill6b+ *7
17A Cunning Plan6b+ *8
18The Marsh Flower7a *1
 Manikins of Horror Area 
20LegacyE1 5b 2
21StratagemE2 5b *4
22Manikins of HorrorE3 5c ***41
23Swlabr LinkE3 6a * 
24Masquerade7b+ **2
25Dance of the Puppets7b **8
26Hand In Glove7a *2
27SwlabrHVS 5b 2
 Digitron Area 
29Rubs and Tugs7c * 
30EliminatorE4 6b ***2
31Pi8a *** 
32California Highway Patrol7c **1
33TitoE2 5b *10
34About Time7b **1
35Pour LulubelleE3 5c ** 
36DigitronE2 5c ***102
37Heaven or HellE5 6b ***1
 Ten Area 
39Beta Beware6c+  
41Alpha Track Etch7b **3
42Delta Force6c+ **5
43BadgeE2 5c  
44Keeping SecretsE5 6c * 
45Walls have Ears7b+ * 
46Scary FairyE3 6a * 
47Ten7b+ **2
48Suite XV17a+ * 
49Jungle WarfareHVS 5a  
50When I was a Viking6b  
 Survival of the Fastest Area 
53CharlainE1 5b *12
54Now and ThenE2 5c *4
55Charlotte's Web6a+ 8
56Crocodile Shoes6b+ *7
57Dead Man's Creek6c *9
58Punch and JudyE5 6b **6
59Full Mental JacketE5 6c ** 
60Survival of the FastestE5 6a ***21
61Survival of the FattestE5 6b *1
62Protect and SurviveE6 6b *** 
63Revival of the Latest7a+ * 
 Nemesis Wall 
65Friday the ThirteenthE5 6a *3
66Oblivion (Pre Nov 2013)7b ***2
67OblivionE6 6b ** 
68Manic MechanicE6 6b ***1
69Relentless7b+ ***5
70Smokin' GunE6 6c ***1
71Shootin' BlanksE6 6c *** 
72Tres HombresE6 6b *** 
73Mercury Rising7b+ *** 
74Steppin' RazorE5 6b * 
75Marie AntoinetteE5 6b * 
76The Big PlopE3 6a  
77Black and Blue7b ** 
 Rubberbandman Area 
79The HoaxHVS 5a  
80Voie de BartE4 6b  
81Rubberbandman7b *2
82Under My Thumb6c+ *17
83Cold FingerE1 5a  
84Chopper SquadE2 5b  
85Accidents Will HappenE1 5c 1
86OctopusHVS 4c  
87Tranche de Vie6a+ *3
88Finger Press6c  
89Thumbs Down6c+ *1
90Let's See Those Fingers6c *4
91All Fingers and Thumbs6c *2
92Thumb Print6a *4
 Sunnyside Area 
94Scrapyard ThingsE1 5a  
96Those Stumbling Words7a 6
97Double CrossbonesE3 5c *2
98Double Crossbones direct
E3 5c 2
99Delaware SlideE4 6a **4
100These Foolish Things7a+ ***35
101Gates of the Golden DawnE5 6b **2
102The Deadly TrapE3 5c  
103Sunny Side Up Mix7b ***16
104Black Poppies7b+ **1
105Chilean Moon7b * 
106AcapellaE5 6b 1
107Acapulco7a+ * 
108Chills of ApprehensionE4 6a 1
109Jam Spread6b+  
110Lemon KerredE3 6b 1
111Freshly Dug6a 2
112Craig Arthur GirdleE2 5c *** 

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